For those of us who love food, June and July are sublime months when the fruit garden is bursting with produce begging to be enjoyed. How fortunate we are in Ireland to have the right climate to grow such an abundance of culinary treats. We’ve been enjoying green gooseberries and elderflower followed by strawberries for the past few weeks. This week we had the first raspberries and loganberries from Walsh’s farm across the road from the Cookery School. How fortunate we are, and everyone in Shanagarry village is, to have a wonderful farm so close that grows such a variety of produce. Juicy red rhubarb early in the year and very soon the tayberries and boysenberries will be ripe also – they are sublime just with a sprinkling of castor sugar and some pouring cream but also make a divine jam. I love to combine them with peaches – a marriage made in heaven, particularly if served with a good homemade vanilla ice cream.

I bought two little Jersey cows last year so we could have access to unpasteurised organic milk. We have been enjoying the thick pouring cream with Summer berries, in panna cotta and crème brulee. Homemade ice cream made with rich jersey cream reminds me of the flavour of ice cream we made when my father-in-law Ivan Allen had a Jersey herd at Ballymaloe. We serve it as a treat with fresh Summer berries.

This evening I’m going to serve Peach Melba, named for Dame Nellie Melba, a famous opera singer – how retro is that?! The combination of sugared peaches, fresh raspberry sauce and homemade ice cream is irresistible – the perfect ending to a Summer dinner party.

Peach Melba

This much abused recipe is one of the most delicious desserts of Summer when made with best quality home-made ice cream, sugared peaches or nectarines and a fresh raspberry sauce. Quite unlike the travesty which often is served as Peach Melba, consisting of 'well known brand' of ice cream and canned peaches smothered in a sauce made from thinned out jam and perhaps a bit of chocolate flake on top for extra excitement!

Home-made Vanilla Ice cream

Raspberry Coulis 

Sugared Peaches


Serve each guest some vanilla ice cream and sugared peaches with a little fresh raspberry sauce poured over the top.

Sugared Peaches or Nectarines

Serves 8

8 perfect ripe peaches
Castor sugar
Juice of 1-2 lemons

Put the peaches or nectarines into a deep bowl, cover them with boiling water, pour off the water and drop into iced water, peel immediately, slice into 5mm (1/4inch) slices removing the stone. Put into a bowl and sprinkle with castor sugar and lemon juice to toss.

Ballymaloe Vanilla Ice-cream

The Ballymaloe Ice-creams are very rich and very delicious, made on an egg mousse base with softly-whipped cream and flavourings added. Ice-creams made in this way have a smooth texture and do not need further whisking during the freezing period. They should not be served frozen hard. Remove from the freezer at least 10 minutes before serving.
Serves 6-8

50g (2oz) sugar
100ml (4fl oz) water
2 egg yolks, preferably free-range and organic
2 teaspoon pure vanilla essence
600ml (1pint) softly whipped cream

Put the egg yolks into a bowl and whisk until light and fluffy (keep the whites for meringues). Combine the sugar and water in a small heavy-bottomed saucepan, stir over heat until the sugar is completely dissolved, then remove the spoon and boil the syrup until it reaches the 'thread' stage, 106-113C/236F. It will look thick and syrupy; when a metal spoon is dipped in, the last drops of syrup will form thin threads. Pour this boiling syrup in a steady stream onto the egg yolks, whisking all the time. Add vanilla essence and continue to whisk until it becomes a thick creamy white mousse. Fold the softly-whipped cream into the mousse, pour into a bowl, cover and freeze.

Raspberry Coulis

8 ozs (225 g) Raspberries

3-6 tablespoons sugar
8 tablespoons water
Lemon juice - optional

Make a syrup with sugar and water, cool and add to the raspberries. Liquidise and sieve, taste, sharpen with lemon juice if necessary. Store in a fridge.

Raspberry Jellies with Fresh Mint Cream

Makes 9-10

Syrup
225g (8ozs) sugar
225ml (8 fl ozs) water

4 sprigs fresh mint
1 dessertspoon Framboise
1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice
3 rounded teaspoon gelatine 
3 tablespoons water
450g (1 lb) fresh raspberries

Mint Cream
15 mint leaves approximate 
1 tablespoon lemon juice
150ml (5 fl ozs) cream
Mint leaves and Rapberries for garnish

9-10 round or oval moulds - 3fl.oz. capacity (2½x1¼ins/6.6x 3cm)

Make a syrup by bringing sugar, water and mint leaves slowly to the boil. Simmer for a few minutes, allow to cool, add Framboise and lemon juice.
Meanwhile brush the inside of the moulds with non scented oil, I use light peanut or sunflower oil

Sponge the gelatine in the water, then place the bowl in a pan of simmering water until the gelatine is completely dissolved. 
Remove the mint leaves from the syrup, then pour the syrup onto the gelatine. Add the raspberries and stir gently. Fill immediately into the lined moulds. Smooth them over the top so they won’t be wobbly when you unmould them onto a plate. Put them into the fridge and leave to set for 3-4 hours.

Meanwhile make the Mint cream.
Crush the mint leaves in a pestle and mortar with the lemon juice, add the cream and stir, the lemon juice will thicken the cream. If the cream becomes too thick, add a little water.

To serve

Spread a little Mint cream on a chilled a white plate, unmould a raspberry jelly and place in the centre. Place five mint leaves on the mint cream around the jelly. Decorate with a few perfect raspberries, repeat with the other jellies. Serve chilled.

Strawberries in Balsamic Vinegar

Marcella Hazan first introduced me to this unlikely sounding combination, it takes a certain amount of courage to try it but believe me it makes strawberries taste exquisitely intense. Aceto Balsamico the aristocrat of Italian vinegars varies enormously, it is precious and expensive, buy the best one you can find and use it sparingly.

Serves 6

2 lbs (900g) strawberries
3-5 tablesp. castor sugar
1-2 tablesp. Balsamic vinegar (aceto balsamico)

Shortly before serving, remove the hulls from the berries and cut in half lengthways. Sprinkle with sugar and toss gently. Just before serving add the balsamic vinegar and toss again. Serve immediately.

N.B. this recipe is not successful with wine or malt vinegars.

Summer Pudding

We actually make our Summer Pudding with cake but many people line the bowl with slices of white bread instead. I've used a mixture of fruit here, but it is also delicious made with black currants alone. Summer fruit salad with sweet geranium leaves also makes a successful filling, but you need to cook the black currants and red currants until they burst and then add the soft fruit. Remember to pour the fruit and syrup boiling into the sponge-lined bowl, otherwise the syrup won't soak through the sponge properly.

Serves 12 - 16

2 x 7 inch sponge cakes (see Foolproof Food recipe)

½ lb (225g) black currants
½ lb (225g) red currants
1 lb (450g) raspberries or ½ lb (225g) raspberries and ½ lb (225g) strawberries
21 ozs (580g) granulated sugar
24 fl ozs (680ml) water

3 pint (1.7 L) Plastic pudding bowl 

First make the sponge (see recipe). 

Cut each round of sponge in half, horizontally. Line the bowl with the cake, crusty side inwards. It doesn't matter if it looks quite patched, it will blend later.

Dissolve the sugar in the water and boil for 2 minutes, add the black currants and red currants and cook until the fruit bursts -about 3 or 4 minutes - then add the raspberries (and strawberries). Taste. Immediately, ladle some of the hot liquid and fruit into the sponge-lined bowl. When about half full, if you have scraps of cake put them in the centre. Then fill to the top with fruit. Cover with a layer of sponge. Put a plate on top and press down with a heavy weight. Allow to get cold. Store in the refrigerator for a minimum of 24 hours before serving, but it will keep for 4 or 5 days.

To Serve: Unmould onto a deep serving dish and pour any left-over fruit and syrup over the top and around the side. Serve with lots of softly whipped cream.

Almond Meringue with Loganberries

Serves 6

1½ ozs (45g) almonds
2 egg whites 
4½ ozs (125g) icing sugar

Filling
½ pint (300ml) whipped cream
½ lb (225g) loganberries

Check that the bowl is dry, spotlessly clean and free of grease. Blanch and skin the almonds. Grind or chop them up. They should not be ground to a fine powder but should be left slightly coarse and gritty. Mark two 7½ inch (19cm) circles on silicone paper or a prepared baking sheet. Mix all the sugar with the egg whites at once and beat until the mixture forms stiff dry peaks. Fold in the almonds. Divide the mixture between the 2 circles and spread evenly with a palette knife. Bake immediately in a cool oven, 150C/300F/regulo 2 for 45 minutes or until set crisp and just brown on top. Allow to cool.

To Assemble

Sandwich the meringues together whipped cream and loganberries. Chill for some hours before serving. Decorate with rosettes of whipped cream.
Garnish with little sprigs of mint or lemon balm.

Summer Fruit Salad in Lemongrass Syrup

Serves 8-10

4 oz (110 g) Raspberries 
4 oz (110g ) Loganberries
4 oz (110g ) Red currants
4 oz (110g ) Black currants
4 oz (110g) small Strawberries
4 oz (110g) Blueberries 
4 oz (110g) Fraises du bois or wild strawberries 
4oz (110g) Blackberries

Syrup 

14 oz (400g) sugar
16 fl oz (450ml) water

2 stalks of fresh lemongrass chopped or grated rind of two unwaxed lemons. Put all the freshly picked berries into a white china or glass bowl. Put the sugar, water and lemongrass into a stainless steel saucepan and bring slowly to the boil, stirring until the sugar dissolves. Boil for just 2 minutes. Cool for 4-5 minutes then pour the hot syrup over the fruit and allow to macerate for several hours. Remove the lemongrass. Serve chilled, with softly-whipped cream or Vanilla Ice-cream or alone.

Foolproof Food

Great Grandmother’s Cake

Use this delicious tender sponge unfilled for the Summer Pudding , or sandwich together with whipped cream and homemade raspberry jam or fresh raspberries as a delicious treat for tea.

6 ozs (175g) flour
6 ozs (175g) castor sugar
3 eggs
4½ ozs (125g) butter
1 tablespoon milk
1 teaspoon (5g) baking powder

filling

4 ozs (110gg) home-made raspberry jam
10 fl ozs (300ml) whipped cream
castor sugar to sprinkle

2 x 7 inch (18cm) sponge cake tins

Preheat the oven to 190C/375F/regulo 5.

Grease and flour the tins and line the base of each with a round of greaseproof paper. Cream the butter and gradually add the castor sugar, beat until soft and light and quite pale in colour. Add the eggs one at a time and beat well between each addition. (If the butter and sugar are not creamed properly and if you add the eggs too fast, the mixture will curdle, resulting in a cake with a heavier texture). Sieve the flour and baking powder and stir in gradually. Mix all together lightly and add 1 tablespoon of milk to moisten.

Divide the mixture evenly between the 2 tins, hollowing it slightly in the centre. Bake for 20-25 minutes or until cooked. Turn out onto a wire tray and allow to cool.

Sandwich together with homemade Raspberry Jam and whipped cream. Sprinkle with sieved castor sugar. Serve on an old fashioned plate with a doyley.

Hot tips :

Seasonal goodies:

British Queens are now in season. The best I’ve had this year have come from Mary and Patrick Walsh. For a selection of summer berries contact -

Mary & Patrick Walsh, Shanagarry, Co Cork. Tel. 021-4646836
Sunnyside Fruit Farm, Rathcormac, Co Cork. Tel. 025-36253
Nick Westendorf – Tel. 021-4771477

Visiting Galway this summer - perhaps for the Arts Festival or Race Week - see the revamped Eyre Square - enjoy the buzz of this cosmopolitan city.
Stroll down Quay Street and enjoy a delicious meal at Martine McDonagh’s award winning Quay Street Wine Bar and Restaurant (No 21)– Tel 091-565662, www.winebar.ie  info@winebar.ie 

Have a cocktail in the wonderfully glamorous g Hotel, designed by milliner Philip Treacy – stunning décor and friendly staff, overlooking Lough Atalia – www.theghotel.ie  - midweek ESPA spa breaks also available. Tel. 091-865200

I recently gave a friend a present of a basket of freshly picked vegetables – some new potatoes, the first of the new season’s courgettes, complete with blossoms, some radishes and a couple of bunches of baby beetroot. She was thrilled, but it was the beetroot that really blew her away, so much so that she telephoned a few days later to tell me what a revelation the flavour of the baby beetroot had been. Hitherto, vinegary pickled beetroot was her only introduction to this hugely underrated vegetable. When the vegetable hamper arrived she used all the other vegetables first and then reluctantly decided to cook the beetroot. She decided to have a browse through ‘Easy Entertaining’ – as usual I was waxing lyrical about how delicious young beetroot are, both hot and cold, so she decided to have a go. 

Wash and gently rub off any clay, careful not to damage either the root or stalk, otherwise they will bleed and lose their colour. Trim the stalks 1-2 inches above the bulb for the same reason.

Young beetroot not much bigger than a golf ball will cook in boiling salted water in 15- 20 minutes, when the skin rubs off easily when pressed with a finger, they are usually cooked. Just to be on the safe side, prick one in the centre with the tip of a knife or a skewer – there should be no resistance. Oven-roasting is another easy-peasy way to cook beetroot, this concentrates its delicious sweet flavour. Just wrap each clean beetroot in a little tin foil parcel and bake at 200C for 20-50 minutes, depending on the size and age you may need a little sea salt.

Hot beetroot marries deliciously with white fish, particularly haddock, grey sea mullet and hake. I also adore hot beetroot with duck or goose, Spring lamb or chicken.

We also enjoy it cold or at room temperature. Beetroot is delicious with goat cheese and rocket leaves. The combination of beetroot and horseradish with smoked mackerel with freshly cracked pepper is another goodie. 

Home pickled beetroot is also a revelation if you are only used to the mouth puckering beetroot in the jar. It keeps for ages in the fridge and will last for up to 12 months if sealed in a kilner jar. Borscht and chilled beetroot soup make delicious summer starters.

If you are fortunate enough to have a glut of beetroot, apart from stocking up with pickles, one could try my favourite recipe for a beetroot and ginger relish – great with coarse pates, cold meats, goat cheese. 

If you have space in your garden, there’s still time to plant some, to harvest in September. Bolthardy is a good reliable variety but do look out for an Italian variety called Chioggia which has pink and white rings looks superb and tastes divine. Alternatively, seek out fresh new seasons beetroot at your nearest farmers market. 

Beetroot Soup with Chive Cream

Serves 8-10

900g (2 lb) young beetroot
25g (1oz) butter
225g (½lb) onions
salt and freshly ground pepper
1.2L (2 pints) home-made chicken or vegetable stock approx.
125ml (4fl oz) creamy milk

Chive Cream 
125ml (4 fl oz) sour cream or crème fraiche
Finely chopped chives 

Wash the beetroot carefully under a cold tap. Don't scrub, simply rub off the clay with your fingers. You won't want to damage the skin or cut off the top or tails because it will 'bleed' in the cooking. Put the beetroot into cold water, and simmer covered for anything from 20 minutes to 2 hours depending on the size and age. 

Meanwhile chop the onions, sweat carefully and gently in the butter until they are cooked. The beetroot are cooked when the skins will rub off easily. 

Chop the beetroot and add to the onions. Season with salt and freshly ground pepper. * Put into a liquidiser with the hot chicken stock. Liquidise until quite smooth. Reheat, add some creamy milk, taste and adjust the seasoning, it may be necessary to add a little more stock or creamy milk. 

Serve garnished with little swirls of sour cream and a sprinkling of finely chopped chives.
Watchpoint: careful not to damage the beetroot during preparation or they will bleed

Golden Beetroot Soup
Use the golden Chioggia beetroot or Burpees Golden beetroot in the recipe above.

Chilled Beetroot Soup
Proceed as in the master recipe above to *. Liquidise with just enough stock to cover. The mixture should be smooth and silky. Season with salt and freshly ground pepper. Fold in some cream and yoghurt.
Serve well chilled in small bowls with little swirls of yoghurt and finely chopped chives.

Salad of Smoked Mackerel with Beetroot, Watercress and Horseradish Sauce

Serves 8

4-6 fillets of smoked mackerel
Pickled Beetroot – see recipe
A selection of watercress and baby salad leaves
Horseradish sauce 
Sprigs of dill

Cut the smoked mackerel into 2.5cm (1 inch) pieces and the pickled beetroot into 1cm (1/2 inch) dice.

To serve
Strew the base of a white plate with a mixture of watercress and baby salad leaves. Put 5 or 6 pieces of mackerel on top. Scatter with some diced beetroot and top with a few little blobs of Horseradish Sauce. A few sprigs of dill add to the deliciousness. 

Pickled Beetroot

Serves 5-6

1 lb (450 g) cooked beetroot
8 oz (225g) sugar
16 fl oz (475 ml) water
8 fl oz (250 ml) white wine vinegar

Dissolve the sugar in water and bring to the boil. simmer for 3-4 minutes. Add the vinegar, pour over the peeled sliced beets and leave to cool.

Horseradish Sauce

Horseradish is widely available in greengrocers nowadays but it also grows wild in many parts of Ireland and looks like giant dock leaves. If you can’t find it near you, plant some in your garden. It is very prolific and the root which you grate can be dug up at any time of the year.

Serve with roast beef, smoked venison or smoked mackerel.
Serves 8 - 10

1 1/2 -3 tablespoons horseradish, grated
2 teaspoons wine vinegar
1 teaspoon lemon juice
1/4 teaspoon mustard
1/4 teaspoon salt
Pinch of freshly ground pepper
1 teaspoon sugar
250 ml (8 fl oz) softly whipped cream

Scrub the horseradish root well, peel and grate on a ‘slivery grater’. Put the grated horseradish into a bowl with the vinegar, lemon juice, mustard, salt, freshly ground pepper and sugar. Fold in the softly whipped cream but do not overmix or the sauce will curdle. It keeps for 2-3 days: cover so that it doesn’t pick up flavours in the fridge.

This is a fairly mild horseradish sauce. If you want to really clear the sinuses, increase the amount of horseradish!
Serve with Ballymaloe Brown Yeast Bread..

Gratin of Haddock with Imokilly Cheddar and Mustard with Piquant Beetroot

This is one of the simplest and most delicious fish dishes we know. If haddock is unavailable, cod, hake or grey sea mullet are also great. We use Imokilly mature Cheddar from our local creamery at Mogeely.

Serves 6 as a main course

175g (6 x 6oz) pieces of haddock
Salt and freshly ground pepper
225g (8ozs) Irish mature Cheddar cheese, grated
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
4 tablespoon cream

Ovenproof dish 8½ x 10 inches (21.5 x 25.5cm)

Preheat the oven to 180C/350F/regulo 4. Season the fish with salt and freshly ground pepper. Arrange the fillets in a single layer in an ovenproof dish (it should be posh enough to bring to the table.) Mix the grated cheese with the mustard and cream and spread carefully over the fish. It can be prepared ahead and refrigerated at this point. Cook in a preheated oven for about 20 minutes or until the fish is cooked and the top is golden and bubbly. Flash under the grill if necessary. Serve with hot Piquant Beetroot. 

Beetroot and Ginger Relish

This sweet sour relish is particularly good with cold meats and coarse country terrines, or used simply as a dip.

Serves 8 – 20 depending on how it’s served

450g (1 lb) raw beetroot, peeled and grated
225g (8oz) onion, chopped
45g (1½ oz) butter
3 tablespoons sugar
salt and freshly ground pepper
25ml (1fl oz) sherry vinegar
120ml (4fl oz) red wine
2 teaspoons grated fresh ginger

Sweat the onions slowly in butter, they should be very soft, add sugar and seasoning. Add the rest of the ingredients and cook gently for 30 minutes. Serve cold. This relish keeps for ages.

Roast Stuffed Duck with Beetroot

1 free range duck – 4 lbs (1.8kg) approx. allow 1 lb (450g) duck per serving

Sage and Onion Stuffing
12 ozs (45g) butter
3 ozs (85g) chopped onion
1 tablespoon finely chopped sage
3½ oz (100g) soft white breadcrumbs
salt and freshly ground pepper

Stock
neck and giblets
bouquet garni
1 onion, sliced
1 carrot, sliced

Bramley Apple Sauce

1 lb (450g) cooking apples

1-2 dessertspoons water
approx. 2 ozs (55g) sugar (depending on tartness of apples)

685g (1½ lb) Piquant Beetroot – Foolproof Food

To make the stock, put the neck, gizzard, heart and feet into a saucepan with a sliced carrot and onion. Add a bouquet garni of parsley stalks, small stalk of celery and a sprig of thyme. Cover with cold water and add 2 or 3 peppercorns but no salt.

Bring slowly to the boil, skim and simmer for 2-3 hours. This will make a delicious broth which will be the basis of the gravy. Meanwhile, singe the duck and make the stuffing.

To make the stuffing: Sweat the chopped onion on a gentle heat for 5-10 minutes until soft but not coloured. Remove from the heat add the breadcrumbs and freshly chopped sage. Season with salt and freshly ground pepper to taste. Unless you are cooking the duck immediately allow to get cold.

When the stuffing is quite cold, season the cavity of the duck and stuff. Roast in a moderate oven 180C/350F/regulo 4 for 13 hours. approx. When the duck is cooked remove to a serving dish, allow to rest while you make the gravy. Degrease the cooking juices (keep the duck fat for roast or fried potatoes). Add stock to the juices in the roasting pan, bring to the boil, taste and season if necessary. Strain gravy into a sauceboat and serve with the duck.

Bramley Apple Sauce: Peel, quarter and core the apple, cut pieces into 2 and put in a stainless steel or cast iron saucepan, with sugar and water, cover and put over a low heat, as soon as the apple has broken down, stir and taste for sweetness. 

Serve warm with the duck, beetroot and gravy.

Foolproof Food

Piquant Beetroot

How to Cook Beetroot

Leave 2 inch (5cm) of leaf stalks on top and the whole root on the beet. Hold it under a running tap and wash off the mud with the palms of your hands, so that you don't damage the skin; otherwise the beetroot will bleed during cooking. Cover with cold water and add a little salt and sugar. Cover the pot, bring to the boil and simmer on top, or in an oven, for 1-2 hours depending on size. Beetroot are usually cooked if the skin rubs off easily and if they dent when pressed with a finger. If in doubt, test with a skewer or the tip of a knife.
Piquant Beetroot 

1½ lbs/675 g beetroot cooked (above)
½ oz/15 g butter 
Salt and freshly ground pepper 
A few drops of freshly squeezed lemon juice (optional)
A sprinkling of sugar
5-6 fl ozs/140-175ml cream 

Peel the beetroot, use rubber gloves for this operation if you are vain!. Chop the beetroot flesh into cubes. Melt the butter in a saute pan, add the beetroot toss, add the freshly squeezed lemon juice and cream, allow to bubble for a few minutes. Season with salt and freshly ground pepper and sugar. Taste and add a little more lemon juice if necessary. Serve immediately. 

Hot Tips 

Breda Maher of Cooleeney Cheese from Moyne, near Thurles, Co Tipperary
Is now making a delicious goat’s milk brie type cheese called Gort na Mona – look out for it. Made from pasteurized milk this is a soft white mould ripened cheese with a creamy texture and distinctive flavour.
For details of Irish farmhouse cheesemakers www.irishcheese.ie  

Oulart Village Market, Co Wexford
Up and running every Saturday from 3-5pm – good range of fresh fruit and vegetables, fresh meats, home cured bacon, home baking and some local craft work.
hughfcoleman@eircom.net  

Carrigaline Smoked Cheese
Lovers of Carrigaline Cheese will be glad to hear that they are now doing a Smoked Carrigaline cheese – its delicious so watch out for it.
carrigalinefarmhousecheese@eircom.net  

Cork Harbour Alliance for A Safe Environment
Mary O'Leary Chairperson of CHASE was presented with the Lord Mayor’s Award at the Commodore Hotel in Cobh on Monday 19th June in recognition of the group’s significant contribution to preserving Cork Harbour in its campaign to oppose the building of two incinerators at Ringaskiddy in Cork Harbour. As part of its work the group has campaigned to highlight the problems that such a plant will have on the communities in the Harbour area. www.chaseireland.org 

At 8 o’clock in the morning and again at 10.00am there’s a queue at virtually every filling station in Ireland, not for petrol, but for the infamous ‘breakfast roll’ Pat Shortt’s song did little to discourage the devotees, if anything it gave it cult status and changed it into a sought-after macho meal.
Even casual observers can’t help noticing that our national girth is expanding at an unprecedented rate. Most alarming is the incredible number of overweight children and teenagers – is it more girls than boys , or is that just my perception because of the visible rolls of puppy fat over the low cut jeans? There is unquestionably a nutritional crisis. Many parents are in despair, its not easy, even for those who are deeply committed to feeding their children healthy food, to persuade their offspring to resist the barrage of advertising and the strategically placed sweets, sugary temptations and fizzy drinks. Many of these foods, including crisps and crispy snacks are virtually addictive, so despite the constant emphasis on sylph-like appearance, we appear unable to resist the lure of sugar and monosodium glutamate.

The schools who have taken a firm line on ‘sweets and sodas’ have helped parents immeasurably and are to be congratulated. Shops and supermarkets need to follow suit.

So what can we do to entice our children to eat healthy food.

The vital first step- Start by making a firm resolution to clean the cupboards and fridge of all processed food -. The reality is that if there is no junk in the house the children can’t eat it. 
If family meals have become disjointed make a huge effort to re-establish the tradition of sitting down around the kitchen table with family. More and more, meals are being eaten on the run or standing up by the fridge. So much so that an increasing number of children no longer know how to use a knife or fork properly.
Try to visit a farmers’ market every week, include the children in this convivial shopping experience. Encourage them to try the tastes that are offered. There is an urgent need for some evening farmers markets, particularly in suburbs of cities and towns, many busy people simply cannot get to a farmers market during their working week. 
Start to grow some food – it is a well-proven fact that if children are involved in planting seeds, they are much more likely to be adventurous and try a whole range of vegetables, both raw and cooked. 
Join an organic box scheme and have a box of home-grown vegetables delivered every week. 
Talk occasionally about food and food issues, food miles, sustainability, importance of good animal welfare. Children are very idealistic and if you are passionate about these issues they will absorb the ethos. Don’t overdo it or you may put them off. 
Bake a simple bread like soda bread or spotted dog every day and show the kids how to do it, they get such a buzz. 
Involve the children in the menu planning, cooking and meal preparation. 
Ask yourself am I cooking or just reheating? Remember food is the ‘petrol’ we put in the tank to keep the ‘car’ going. If we shovel any kind of old rubbish into ourselves and our children we are definitely looking for trouble.

Children of any age still love a ‘roast dinner’ particularly roast chicken with all the trimmings – stuffing, gravy, roast potatoes, carrots. 

Ballymaloe Strawberry Muesli

This is a huge favourite with all our family and friends – its such a good recipe to know about because its made in minutes and so good. We vary the fruit through the seasons – strawberries, raspberries, loganberries, blueberries and grated apples.

Serves 8

6 heaped tablespoons rolled oatmeal (Quaker Oats)
8 tablespoons water
110g (8oz) fresh strawberries
2 teaspoons honey

Soak the oatmeal in the water for 8-10 minutes. Meanwhile, mash the strawberries roughly with a fork and mix with the oatmeal. Sweeten to taste with honey, a couple of teaspoons are usually enough but it depends on how sweet the strawberries are.
Serve with pouring cream and soft brown sugar.

Fruit Kebabs
Fruit kebabs are delicious for breakfast or for a snack at any time of the day. Just thread cubes of fresh fruit onto satay sticks, eg cubes of melon, apple, pear, kiwi fruit, thick slices of banana, maybe a cherry – divine and bursting with flavour.

Wraps
Wraps were inspired by the Mexican burrito – originally invented as a convenient way for cowboys and farmers to carry a packed lunch! They are the perfect easy casual food for breakfast, lunch or dinner. Have fun with the fillings!

To make a wrap:
Heat a wide frying pan on a medium heat, lay a tortilla on the pan, warm on one side for about 15-30 seconds then turn over to warm the other side. This makes it soft and pliable. Lay the warm tortilla on a chopping board and arrange the filling in an approximately 5 x 12.5cm (2 x 5 inch) rectangle on the bottom half of the tortilla. Fold in the right and left edges, then fold the bottom edges over the filling and gently but firmly roll the tortilla over until the filling is completely enclosed.

Open Wraps:
Proceed as above but only fold in one side initially, continue to roll until the filling is wrapped.
Wraps can be made ahead covered in plastic wrap or tin foil and refrigerated. Depending on the filling they can be reheated.

Suggested fillings:
1. Pieces of cooked chicken breast, iceberg lettuce, grated cabbage and carrot, and mayonnaise.
2. Crispy bacon, tomatoes, grated cheddar cheese and lettuce.
Let the children choose their favourite fillings and combinations and roll them up themselves, here are some ideas for more ‘grown up’ fillings.
3. Crunchy lettuce, goat cheese, roast red peppers, pesto and crispy bacon or prosciutto.
4. Crunchy lettuce, smoked salmon, cream cheese and dill, cucumber strips, freshly cracked pepper and a few crispy capers.
5. Crunchy lettuce and rocket leaves, rare roast beef, garlic mayonnaise and crispy French fried onions.
6. Crunchy lettuce, roast chicken, fresh herb stuffing, tarragon mayonnaise and sundried tomatoes.
7. Crunchy lettuce, spicy chicken, crème fraiche, cucumber pickle and coriander leaves.
8. Crunchy lettuce, strips of cheddar cheese, cucumber pickle, Ballymaloe Country Relish and spring onion.

Baked Potatoes

Baked potatoes are wonderfully versatile, cheap and cheerful

8 x 8 ozs (225g) old potatoes, e.g. Golden Wonders or Kerrs Pinks
Sea salt and butter

Scrub the skins of the potatoes very well. Prick each potato 3 or 4 times and bake in a preheated hot oven 2001C/4001F/regulo 6 for 1 hour approx. depending on the size. When cooked, serve immediately while skins are still crisp and make sure to eat the skins with lots of butter and sea salt, Simply Delicious!

Suggested Stuffing for Baked Potatoes 

1. Garlic mayonnaise with tuna fish
2. Fromage Blanc (Jockey) with smoked salmon and chives
3. Garlic butter with crispy rasher.
4. Tuna fish with sweetcorn.

Traditional Roast Stuffed Chicken

Serves 4-6

1 x 3½ - 5 lbs (1.5 - 2.3kg) free range chicken, preferably organic
Stock
Giblets (keep the liver for a chicken liver pate), and wish bone
1 sliced carrot
1 sliced onion
1 stick celery
A few parsley stalks and a sprig of thyme

Stuffing
1¾ ozs (45g) butter
3 ozs (85g) chopped onion
3-3½ ozs (85-100g) soft white breadcrumbs
2 tablesp. finely chopped fresh herbs eg. parsley, lemon thyme, chives and annual marjoram
Salt and freshly ground pepper
A little soft butter
Garnish
Sprigs of flat parsley

First remove the wish bone from the neck end of the chicken, this isn't at all essential but it does make carving much easier later on. Tuck the wing tips underneath the chicken to make a neat shape. Put the wish bone, giblets, carrot, onions, celery and herbs into a saucepan. Cover with cold water, bring to the boil, skin and simmer gently while the chicken is roasting.

Next make the stuffing, sweat the onions gently in the butter until soft, 10 minutes approx. then stir in the crumbs, herbs, a little salt and pepper to taste. Allow it to get quite cold. If necessary wash and dry the cavity of the bird, then season and half fill with 

cold stuffing. Season the breast and legs, smear with a little soft butter.Preheat the oven to 180C/350F/regulo4. Weigh the chicken and allow about 20 minutes to the lb and 20 

minutes over. Baste a couple of times during the cooking with the buttery juices. The chicken is done when the juices are running clear. To test prick the thickest part at the base of the thigh and examine the juices: they should be clear. Remove the chicken to a carving dish, keep it warm and allow to to rest while you make the gravy. To make the gravy, spoon off the surplus fat from the roasting pan. De glaze the pan juices with the fat free stock from the giblets and bones. Using a whisk, stir and scrape well to dissolve the caramelized meat juices from the roasting pan. Boil it up well, season and thicken with a little roux if you like. Taste and correct seasoning. Serve in a hot gravy boat.

If possible serve the chicken on a nice carving dish surrounded by crispy roast potatoes and some sprigs of flat parsley then arm yourself with a sharp knife and bring it to the table. Carve so that each person gets some brown and some white meat. Serve with gravy and bread sauce and roast potatoes.

Chicken Noodle Salad

Serves 6-8

450g (1lb) fettucini, Chinese, or udon noodles
170g (6oz) peanut butter
120ml (4 fl. oz) peanut oil
63ml (2½ fl.oz) rice wine vinegar
50ml (2 fl oz) dark soy* sauce
47ml (1½ fl. oz) sesame oil
2 cloves garlic crushed
pinch of cayenne pepper
30g (1 oz) toasted sesame seeds
3 - 4 tablespoons chopped scallions cut at an angle
Grated carrot
1 pan-grilled chicken breast, shredded

Bring a large saucepan of water (4.5L/8pints) to the boil, add salt, cook the udon noodles until al dente. Meanwhile make the dressing. Whisk the peanut butter and sesame oil together, add rice vinegar, soy sauce, crushed garlic, cayenne and sesame seeds, stir well. When the noodles are al dente, drain immediately and refresh in cold water, drain again, add scallions, grated carrot and chicken. Toss in just enough dressing to coat lightly. Taste and correct seasoning.

*Mushroom soy sauce is very good in this recipe.
The peanut dressing will keep for at least a week in the fridge.

Strawberry ice-cream

What better to follow the roast chicken than some delicious strawberry ice-cream, you could serve it in little cones if you like or with strawberry sauce.

2lb (900g) very ripe strawberries
Juice of 2 lemons
Juice of 2 oranges
8oz (225g) castor sugar
½ pint (300ml) water
5 fl.oz (150ml) whipped cream

Fresh Strawberry Sauce
14oz (400g) strawberries
2oz (55g) icing sugar
Lemon juice

Dissolve the sugar in the water, boil for 7-10 minutes. Leave to cool. Puree the strawberries in a food processor or blender, sieve. Add orange and lemon juice to the cold syrup. Stir into the puree, fold in the whipped cream to the puree. Freeze in a sorbetiere according to the manufacturers instructions.

Meanwhile make the strawberry sauce, clean and hull the strawberries, add to the blender with the icing sugar and blend. Strain, add lemon juice if necessary. Store in a fridge.
Serve in ice-cream cones or in a glass bowl with a few sugared strawberries and fresh strawberry sauce. 

Foolproof Food

Smoothies

Smoothies can be enjoyed for breakfast or a delicious, nutritious snack at any time – play around with whatever ingredients you have to hand.

Banana and Yoghurt Smoothie
Serves 1-2

225ml (8 fl oz) natural yoghurt
1 ripe banana
1 teaspoon honey (optional)

Peel the banana, chop coarsely, blend with other ingredients in a liquidizer until smooth.
Pour into glasses and serve immediately.

Mango Smoothie
Substitute mango for banana in above recipe. You’ll need about 150g (5oz).

Mango and Banana Smoothie
Serves 2-3

350ml (12 fl oz) freshly squeezed orange juice
1 chopped mango
1 banana
225ml (8fl oz) natural yoghurt

Put all the ingredients in a liquidizer, whizz until smooth. Taste, add a little honey if necessary.

Raspberry and Nectarine Smoothie
Another delicious combination – slice 1 ripe nectarine and add 25-50g (1-2oz) fresh rapberries.

Blueberry Smoothie
Add 110g (4oz) blueberries or more.

Hot Tips 

RedBranch Health Newsletter
Brings health-related information to subscribers on a monthly basis, a not-for-profit organization they are dedicated to positively improving the modern lifestyle, they provide a free service in Irish schools. Find out more information from The RedBranch Team at 01-61713750 or info@redbranch.com  www.redbranch.com 

Slow Food Cork Summer BBQ at Tom Barry's Pub, Barrack St. Cork City
Tuesday, 4th July at 6.30pm in the garden at Tom Barry’s
Freshly locally caught Mackerel barbecued served with gooseberry chutney, salads (supplied by local growers) and Arbutus bread, followed by local strawberries. There will also be a vegetarian option too using local farmhouse cheese.
€12 for members and €14 for non members

New Regulations on Beef labelling announced by Minister for Agriculture and Food, Mary Coughlan, TD to come into effect on 3rd July 2006

These regulations extend the existing beef labelling regulations to now require hotels, restaurants, pubs serving food, caterers and essentially all those involved in serving beef to consumers to provide them with information on the country of origin of their beef, so they can reassured about the origin and the quality as well as the safety of the products they are purchasing and consuming. www.agriculture.gov.ie 

Congratulations to Randolph Hodgson Proprietor of Neal’s Yard Dairy in London –
On being awarded an OBE in the Queen’s Birthday Honours for services to the dairy industry – Randolph has always been extremely supportive and generous to the Irish Farmhouse Cheese Industry and is a member of the Bord Bia Taste Council.

At the Whit weekend we celebrated the sixth birthday of Midleton Farmers Market. The market has gone from strength to strength since that first weekend when a handful of local farmers and food producers first set up their stalls with a mixture of apprehension and excitement.

Willie Scannell borrowed a moulded plastic garden table and piled it up with his floury Ballycotton spuds. Frances Burns who had traded outside the mart for years was a dab hand at setting up a stall with help from her grandson. She sells local vegetables and some plants. Local goat cheese maker Jane Murphy arrived with her beautiful freshly made Ardsallagh Goat cheese.
Siobhan and David Barry from Carrigtwohill have now greatly added to the range of home-grown vegetables they started with and also offer vegetable plugs for ‘wannabe’ vegetable gardeners.

The next stall was erected by local councillor Ted Murphy who sells home grown plants and shares his patch with the Country Market ladies who pile their tables high with delectable confectionery, jams and chutneys. 

Wendy England set up a stall with her mother-in-law Hester and her neighbour Mary O’ Connell. They sell delicious home made cakes, bread, jams and pickles 

Fiona Burke sold a wide variety of fine cheeses, olives, tapenade, pesto and Gubbeen bacon. Local farmers Dan and Anne Aherne from Ballysimon outside Midleton, sold their organic beef and are now also famous for their free range organic chicken. 

The indomitable fish smoker Frank Hederman was also one of the original farmers market pioneers – his traditionally smoked eel, salmon, mackerel, sprats, mussels and hake were, and still are a magnet for discerning customers.

The Ballymaloe Cookery School Organic Farm and Gardens Stall sells a selection of homemade vegetables, fruit and herbs, jams, pickles, free-range eggs from our happy lazy hens and occasionally our own home cured pork.

Kate O’Donovan was also there from the very beginning, selling her homemade salad dressings and marinades. She also barbecues juicy sausages and serves them with her relishes in crusty Arbutus Bread.

Margaret Keane sells a variety of savoury tarts and quiches, biscuits and cakes and jams and onion marmalade. Arbutus Breads made by ‘master-baker’ Declan Ryan have been one of the star attractions from the early days. People queue for the crusty soda, yeast and sour dough loaves.

Some of the early stall-holders like Clodagh McKenna have moved on but Barry Tyner stepped into her place. Catriona Daunt sells a huge variety of organic fruit and vegetables and fat Agen prunes. Margaret Martin mans Tim York’s stall with lots more organic vegetables and salad leaves. Deirdre Hilliard from Cobh joined the market in 2001, she does a range of delicious organic breakfast cereals, soups and salads. Beside her, Brian Cott and Chris Cashman sell a delicious range of cakes and cookies.

O’Connaill’s Chocolates have now added sublime hot chocolate and coffee to their tempting array. Orin Little of The Little Irish Apple Company drives down from Piltown in Co Kilkenny with his apple juice early every Saturday morning, he sells delicious apples in season and warm apple juice on chilly Saturday mornings.

Hail, rain or snow, customers pour in to fill their shopping bags and enjoy the music and the vibe.

Here are some suggestions for a Market Menu

Green Pea Soup with Fresh Mint Cream

This soup tastes of summer. If you are using fresh peas use the pods to make a vegetable stock and use that as a basis for your soup. Having said that, best quality frozen peas also make a delicious soup, either way be careful not to overcook. This soup may also be served chilled but serve smaller portions.

Serves 6-8

1 oz (30g) lean ham or bacon
½ oz (15g) butter
2 medium spring onions, chopped
1½ lbs (675g) podded peas, fresh or frozen
Outside leaves of a head of lettuce, shredded
A sprig of mint
1½ pints (900ml) light homemade chicken stock or water
Salt, freshly ground pepper and sugar
2 tablesp. thick cream

Garnish
Whipped cream
Freshly chopped mint

Heat the chicken stock.

Cut the bacon into very fine shreds. Melt the butter and sweat the bacon for about 5 minutes, add the spring onion and cook for another 1-2 minutes. Then add the peas, lettuce, mint and the hot chicken stock or water. Season with salt, pepper and sugar. Bring to the boil with the lid off and cook for approx. 5 minutes until the peas are just tender. 
Liquidise and add a little cream to taste. Serve hot or chilled with a blob of whipped cream mixed with some freshly chopped mint. 

If this soup is made ahead, reheat uncovered and serve immediately. It will lose its fresh taste and bright lively colour if it sits in a bainmarie or simmers at length in a pot.
Note
Be really careful not to overcook this soup or you will lose the fresh taste and bright green colour. Add a little extra stock if the soup is too thick

Chicken Salad with Mango and Roasted Cashew Nuts

Serves 8-10

1.35kg (3 lb) cooked free range organic chicken
1½ tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
2 mangoes peeled, stoned and cut into 1cm (2 inch) pieces
225g (6-8oz) chopped celery
4 chopped scallions including green part
110ml (4fl oz) natural yoghurt
110ml (4fl oz) homemade Mayonnaise 
1½ teaspoons curry powder
2 teaspoon freshly ground cumin
140g (5oz) roasted cashew nuts 
2 tablespoons freshly chopped coriander, optional

Mix the cubed, cooked chicken in a large bowl with the freshly squeezed lemon juice, season well with salt and freshly ground pepper. Add the diced mango, celery and scallion.

Whisk the yoghurt with the homemade mayonnaise, heat the cumin and curry powder gently on a pan, add to the mayo and yoghurt. Mix everything together.
Taste and correct seasoning. Just before serving add the roasted cashew nuts, scatter with chopped coriander or parsley and serve.

Pickled Beetroot Salad

Serves 5-6

1 lb (450 g) cooked beetroot
8 oz (225g) sugar
16 fl oz (475 ml) water
8 fl oz (250 ml) white wine vinegar

Dissolve the sugar in water and bring to the boil. Simmer for 3-4 minutes. Add the vinegar, pour over the peeled sliced beets and leave to cool.

Potato and Thyme Leaf Salad
Serves 6 approx.

Scant quart cooked potatoes peeled and cut into 2 inch (5mm) dice
4 fl ozs (120ml) fruity olive oil
1-2 tablespoons thyme leaves and thyme flowers if available
Salt and pepper to taste

Coat potatoes in a good oil. Season to taste and sprinkle liberally with fresh thyme leaves and flowers.

Fresh Apricot Tart

Serves 10-12

Pastry
225g (8oz) plain flour
175g (6oz) butter
Pinch of salt
2 teaspoons icing sugar
A little beaten free-range egg or egg yolk and water to bind

Apricot Glaze
6 tablespoons Apricot jam
Freshly squeezed lemon juice

Filling
8-10 fresh apricots
300ml (½ pint) cream
2 large or 3 small eggs
2 tablespoons castor sugar 
1 teaspoon pure Vanilla essence 

1 x 12 inch (30 cm) diameter tart tin or 2 x 7 inch (18cm) tart tins with removable bases

Preheat the oven to 180C/350F/regulo 4.

Make the shortcrust pastry in the usual way and leave to relax in a refrigerator for 1 hour. Roll out the pastry and line a tart tin with a removable base. Chill for 10 minutes. Line with kitchen paper and fill with dried beans. Bake blind in a preheated oven for 15-20 minutes. Remove the paper and beans. Paint the tart base with a little egg wash and return to the oven for 3 or 4 minutes. Leave to cool.

In a small stainless steel saucepan, melt the Apricot jam with a squeeze of lemon juice, push the hot jam through a sieve and then brush the base of the tart with a little of this glaze. 
Halve the apricots and remove the stones. Arrange one at a time cut side upwards inside the tart, the apricots should slightly overlap in the inside. 

Whisk the eggs well, with the sugar and Vanilla essence, then add the cream. Pour this mixture over the apricots and bake in the preheated oven for 35 minutes until the custard is set and the apricots are fully cooked. Brush generously with the Apricot glaze. Serve warm with a bowl of softly whipped cream.

Foolproof Food

Smoked Mackerel Pâte

4 ozs (110g) Frank Hederman’s undyed smoked mackerel, free of skin and bone

2-3 ozs (55-85g) softened butter
¼ teaspoon finely snipped fennel
½ teaspoon lemon juice
½-1 clove garlic, crushed to a paste
Salt and freshly ground pepper
Melba toast

Garnish
Sprigs of fennel 

Whizz all the ingredients in a food processor. Season with salt and freshly ground pepper, taste, add more lemon juice and garlic if necessary, it should be well seasoned. Put into little individual pots, or set in a loaf tin lined with cling film.

Alternatively, this pate can be piped in rosettes onto ¼ inch (5mm) thick slices of cucumber, melba toast, crostini or savoury biscuits. Garnish each one with a sprig of fennel. 
Serve with cucumber pickle and crusty bread.
Cooked fresh salmon, smoked salmon, smoked mackerel, trout or herring can be substituted in the above recipe.

Hot Tips

Ballinderry Park is not a typical country house hotel, guest house or Bed and Breakfast but a beautifully restored private family home in the midst of the peaceful County Galway countryside - a small, beautiful Georgian house, like a perfect Palladian doll’s house, built on a small hill in the open pasture of east County Galway. Five years ago Susie and George Gossip found it, lonely and abandoned, and rescued it from advanced dereliction. In the intervening period they have slowly restored it, authentically and lovingly, and now their guests can sample and appreciate the fruits of their labours. Ballinderry Park, Kilconnell, Ballinasloe, Co.Galway,Tel: 09096 86796, www.ballinderrypark.com 

The Irish Hospitality Institute in collaboration with Failte Ireland, Irish Hotels Federation and all in the Tourism Research Centre at the Dublin Institute of Technology have created two-day training courses based around the current business issues in Hospitality, Tourism and Catering Industry. 

WHO SHOULD ATTEND – Senior Managers, Deputy Managers, Sales & Marketing Managers, Human Resources & Training Managers and Departmental Heads. For any further information please contact: Eilish Kealy, Network Manager, Hospitality Management Skillnet, Irish Hospitality Institute, 8 Herbert Lane, Dublin 2, Tel: 01 662 4790, Email: skillnets@ihi.ie 

Carrigaline Smoked Cheese
Lovers of Carrigaline Cheese will be glad to hear that they are now doing a Smoked Carrigaline cheese – its delicious so watch out for it. carrigalinefarmhousecheese@eircom.net 

Ballycotton Arts Festival 
From Friday 23rd June to the evening of Sunday 25th Ballycotton in East Cork will be buzzing with a huge variety of fun filled workshops and family events for the 2nd Annual Ballycotton Arts Festival. There will also be a food stall on the pier on Sunday.

Paul Waddington is a ‘wannabe’ farmer who lives in a terraced house in Brixton in the London suburbs. He and his wife longed to be self-sufficient. “Many of us dream of ‘four acres and freedom’ – the idyllic, self-sufficient life in which we flee the city to live in harmony with the land, dependent on no-one. For all but a fortunate few, this is now an impossible dream. Absurd property prices have put four acres and a farmhouse out of reach of anyone lacking a six-figure sum of capital. Today, only the rich can afford to be peasants”. They have 100 square metres of garden and Paul also managed to secure an allotment in South London a year and a half ago – no mean feat nowadays when there is an unprecedented demand from urban dwellers desperate to connect with nature and to at least grow a little of their own produce. His wife wanted to plant flowers, he wanted to be self sufficient – we can’t eat flowers he reasoned. Eventually a compromise, and so started an exciting botanical adventure where they had to discover everything by trial and error. Gradually they worked out the vegetables that were worthwhile for a smallholder, and those that weren’t, for example Brussels sprouts take six months to grow, as opposed to spinach which can be harvested within a month, and the more one cuts it the more it comes. Beetroot is another gem which one can eat hot or cold at various stages of growth and where one can eat the leaves and stalks also. Radishes take 12-14 days from sowing the seed. Gooseberries and blackcurrants are a delight and an apple tree can be pruned to suit the size of the garden. 

At a recent Slow Food Event at Ballymaloe Cookery School, Paul doled out lots of pragmatic advice for the 21st Century Smallholder. He warned against being too romantic and first reeled off a whole list of reasons to consider before embarking on urban ‘farming’.

1) Total self sufficiency is not really an option in a town garden
2) Won’t save much money
3) It costs a lot to get started - must buy some kit – trowels, digging fork, a propagator, and seeds. He was shocked to discover he had spent 50 pounds on ‘poo’!
4) Takes time and can become an obsession!
5) Slightly incompatible with children but you can reach a compromise.

But on the other hand - reasons to produce your own.

1) Immense satisfaction – such a buzz when you eat your first home-grown salad or freshly laid egg.
2) Fresh organic food full of micro nutrients for all the family - Conventional food has become greatly demineralised because of increasingly intensive production systems.
3) You can start with a window box, tub or hanging basket.
4) You will learn a great deal, develop new skills and become aware of the seasons

When he started a few years ago Paul hadn’t a clue when anything was in season, now he writes a weekly column for The Guardian – “What’s Good Now.”

So how much time have you got? How do you want to grow - conventional or organic?. The latter means you have to work at building up the health of your soil and start a compost heap. A productive fruit and veg garden is a nicer place to be than a desert of decking, both for you and the countless bugs and creatures that run our ecosystem. If you look after the soil you will have the nutrients you need. Urban gardeners can also have a few hens (no cockerel or the neighbours will be up in arms). Paul also has a couple of beehives, we were surprised to learn that this is a fast-growing hobby in urban areas. One of Paul’s friends with 55 hives on his roof top in Hackney, gets incredible yields of top quality mixed honey from the urban gardens. Despite the fact that it sounds dangerous, bee stings are rare. In his book, ‘The 21st Century Smallholder’, Paul gives several brilliantly detailed plans for urban gardeners, using every possible horizontal and vertical surface, fruit trees on south facing walls, others trained into espaliers or fan shapes, hanging baskets and window boxes, bulging with fresh herbs and trailing tomatoes.

Every cook should know the magic of sowing a seed and watching it growing some of their own food. When you sow a seed yourself and patiently wait for it to grow into beautiful produce, it gives one a far greater appreciation of good food, plus one is far less likely to ‘boil the hell out of it’ when you get it into the kitchen.

Paul Waddington’s books will inspire even the most reluctant urban gardener.

“21st Century Smallholder” – from window boxes to allotments: how to go back to the land without leaving home. Buy from Amazon

“Seasonal Food – a Guide to what’s in season when and why” - both published by Eden Project Books   Buy from Amazon

Globe Artichokes with Melted Butter

Whole Globe artichokes are quite fiddly to eat. First you pull off each leaf separately and dip in the sauce. Eventually you are rewarded for your patience when you come to the heart! Don't forget to scrape off the tickly 'choke'; then cut the heart into manageable pieces, sprinkle with a little sea salt before you dip it into the remainder of your sauce. Simply Delicious!

Serves 6

6 globe artichokes
1.1L (2pints) water
2 teaspoons salt
2 teaspoons approx. white wine vinegar

Melted Butter
170g (6oz) butter
freshly squeezed juice of 3 lemons approx.

Some restaurants do very complicated preparation but I merely trim the base just before cooking so the artichokes will sit steadily on the plate, rub the cut end with lemon juice or vinegar to prevent it from discolouring. 

Have a large saucepan of boiling water ready, add 2 teaspoons of vinegar and 2 teaspoons of salt to every 2 pints of water, pop in the artichokes and bring the water back to the boil. Simmer steadily for about 25 minutes. After about 20 minutes you could try testing to see if they are done. I do this by tugging off one of the larger leaves at the base, it should come away easily, if it doesn't continue to cook for another 5 - 10 minutes. Remove and drain upside down on a plate.
While they are cooking simply melt the butter and add lemon juice to taste.

To Serve
Put each warm artichoke onto a hot serving plate, serve the sauce or melted butter in a little bowl beside it. Artichokes are eaten with your fingers, so you might like to provide a finger bowl. A spare plate to collect all the nibbled leaves will also be useful.

Blackcurrant leaf sorbet

We also use this recipe to make an elderflower sorbet - substitute 4 or 5 elderflower heads in full bloom.

2 large handfuls of young blackcurrant leaves
225g (8ozs) sugar
600ml (1 pint ) cold water
Juice of 3 lemons
1 egg white (optional)

Crush the blackcurrant leaves tightly in your hand, put into a stainless steel saucepan with the cold water and sugar. Stir to dissolve the sugar, bring slowly to the boil. Simmer for 2 or 3 minutes. Allow to cool completely. Add the juice of 3 freshly squeezed lemons*.

Strain and freeze for 20-25 minutes in an ice-cream maker or sorbetiere. Serve in chilled glasses or chilled white china bowls or on pretty plates lined with fresh blackcurrant leaves.

Note: If you do not have a sorbetiere, simply freeze the sorbet in a dish in the freezer, when it is semi-frozen, whisk until smooth and return to the freezer again. Whisk again when almost frozen and fold in one stiffly beaten egg white. Keep in the freezer until needed.

If you have access to a food processor. Freeze the sorbet completely in a tray, then break up and whizz for a few seconds in the processor, add 1 slightly beaten egg white, whizz and freeze again. Serve.

Blackcurrant Leaf Lemonade

Ingredients as above plus

1¼-1½ pints (750-900ml) still or sparkling water
ice cubes

Proceed to * in Blackcurrant Leaf Sorbet recipe, add 1¼ pints (750ml) still or sparkling water, taste and add more water if necessary. Serve chilled with lots of ice. 

Foolproof Food

Roast Beetroot with Ardsallagh Goat Cheese and Balsamic Vinegar

Serves 4

6-12 baby beetroot, a mixture of red, golden and Clioggia would be wonderful
Maldon Sea Salt
Freshly cracked pepper
Extra Virgin olive oil
Balsamic vinegar
170g (6oz) goat cheese -Ardsallagh or St. Tola
Rocket and beetroot leaves 
Wild garlic leaves if available

Preheat the oven to 230°C/450°F/regulo 8

Wrap the beetroot in aluminium foil and roast in the oven until soft and cooked through - 30mins to an hour depending on size.

To serve:
Rub off the skins of the beetroot, keep whole or cut into quarters. Toss in extra virgin olive oil.
Scatter a few rocket and tiny beetroot leaves on each serving plate,. Arrange a selection of warm beetroot on top. Drizzle with extra virgin olive oil and Balsamic vinegar. Put a dessert spoonful of goat cheese beside the beetroot. Sprinkle with Sea Salt and freshly ground pepper. Garnish with tiny beet greens or wild garlic flowers and serve.

Beetroot Tops

Serves 4

450g (1lb) fresh beetroot tops
butter or olive oil
salt and freshly ground pepper

Cut the stalks and leaves into approx. 2 inch pieces. Cook in boiling salted water (3 pints water to 2 teaspoons salt) for 6-8 minutes or until tender. Drain, season and toss in the little butter or olive oil. Serve immediately.

Beetroot tops are full of vitamins and minerals and are often unecessarily discarded - if you grow your own remember to cook them as well as the beetroot. When the leaves are tiny they make a really worthwhile addition to the salad bowl both in terms of nutrition and flavour. 

Kinoith Summer Garden Salad

A selection of fresh lettuces and salad leaves for example:

eg. Butterhead
Oakleaf
Iceberg
Mesculum or Saladisi 
Lollo Rosso
Frisee
Red Orah
Rocket (Arugula)
Edible chrysanthemum leaves
Wild sorrel leaves or Buckler leaf sorrel
Golden Marjoram, Annual Marjoram, tiny sprigs of Dill, Tarragon or Mint
Salad Burnet
Borage flowers
Young Nasturtium leaves and flowers
Marigold Petals
Chive or wild garlic flowers
Herb leaves eg. lemon balm, mint, flat parsley
Green Pea Shoots or Broad Brean tips
Tiny Chard & Beetroot leaves

Ballymaloe French Dressing

50ml (2fl oz) wine vinegar

150ml (6fl oz) olive oil or a mixture of olive and other oils. eg. sunflower and arachide
1 level teaspoon mustard (dijon or English)
1 large clove of garlic
1 scallion or small spring onion
sprig of parsley
sprig of watercress
1 level teaspoon salt
few grinds of pepper

First, make the dressing.

Put all the ingredients into a blender and run at medium speed for 1 minutes approx. or mix oil and vinegar in a bowl, add mustard, salt, freshly ground pepper and mashed garlic. Chop the parsley, spring onion and watercress finely and add in. Whisk before serving.

Wash and dry the lettuces and salad leaves. Tear into bite sized bits. Sprinkle with edible flowers and petals. Just before serving toss in a little dressing, not too much just enough to coat the leaves lightly. Serve immediately.

Hot Tips 



Fair Trade – Congratulations to Bantry on becoming Ireland’s 12th Fairtrade town –

Bantry now joins Belfast, Clonakilty, Cork, Galway, Kilkenny, Kinsale, Limerick, Thurles, Waterford, Wexford and Mullingar. Sales for Fairtrade products are growing by approximately 40% a year.
 Altogether there are 35 groups of Fairtrade volunteers around Ireland working to meet the criteria necessary to make their towns or cities Fairtrade Towns. For more information contact Melanie Drea, Fairtrade Mark Ireland. Tel. 01-475 3515 www.fairtrade.ie 

Green Ireland Conference – Kilkenny Castle 16-18 June 
Branding and protection for sustainable farming, safe food and eco-tourism.
Co-hosted by An Taisce/the National Trust for Ireland and the GM-free Ireland Network.
Details on www.gmfreeireland.org  or mail@gmfreeireland.org 

Cork Show takes place in Cork City on Sunday 18th June from 9am 
Onwards at the Munster Showgrounds, Ballintemple.
It is primarily agri-oriented, but this year will also focus on the important areas of renewable energies, eco-homes, sustainable agriculture, alternative farm incomes (organics, bee-keeping, cheese-making.....etc) and environmental issues.

Agriculture and Food 2006 – 
Teagasc is hosting a major national event at Kildalton College this summer on June 21st. Fundamental shifts are occurring across the whole agricultural sector. Now more than ever farm families need clear information on their options for the future. Agriculture and Food 06 is a key event in Teagasc’s campaign to provide clear direction and leadership on the wide range of challenges facing farm and rural communities. www.teagasc.ie 

I’ve just got a present of a wonderful bouquet, more precious than orchids – a bunch of fresh organic Irish asparagus. The season is short, just 5 or 6 weeks – May into early June, depending on the vagaries of the weather. Most of the cookery students were astonished to hear that asparagus had a season, like most other vegetables its available in the supermarkets from January to December.

Irish grown asparagus in season is quite another thing, sometimes you can get the thin spears called sprew, delicious little wisps, perfect for salads, risotto or for dipping into a freshly boiled egg instead of soldiers of toast.
The plumper spears can be quickly cooked and served unadorned with a little silky Hollandaise.

Serious gourmands and country house kitchens will have a special tall asparagus pot with internal basket to keep the precious spears upright while they cook. That way the ends are cooked while the tender tips are steamed. Ideal, but not essential. An oval cast-iron pot or even an ordinary saucepan will do the trick, oval is good because it fits the spears more neatly.

Freshness is of paramount importance – like corn, the most sublime and unforgettable asparagus is that which is rushed from the asparagus bed in the garden, into the pot. For that reason it is truly worth considering making a little raised bed in your garden so you can indulge in even five or six asparagus feasts each year. That’s the ultimate, but for the rest of us it’s a question of buying the asparagus as fresh as possible. Keep an eye out for tightly closed tips, if they are beginning to open the asparagus will be past its best.

Preparation is simple, hold an asparagus spear close to the end in your hand between your thumb and index finger. Bend the spear over your finger, the woody end of the asparagus will snap at the point where the stalk is beginning to get tough, use the trimmings for stock or soup. Some cooks like to peel the stalk with a potato peeler but I feel that results in a loss of flavour, cook and eat as soon as possible.

Roast Asparagus with Sea Salt and Parmesan

Roast asparagus as in the previous recipe. 

Sprinkle a little freshly grated Parmesan cheese, preferably Parmigiano Reggiano, and sea salt over the roast asparagus and eat immediately. Completely exquisite!

Tagliatelle with Cream and Asparagus

Wickedly rich but utterly delicious once a year!

Serves 4 as a main course

8 ozs (225 g) fresh Irish asparagus
8 ozs (225 g) tagliatelle, preferably fresh and homemade
4 pints (2.3L) water
2 large tablespoons salt
1 oz (30 g) butter
6 ozs (170 g) best quality cream
2 ozs (55 g) freshly grated Parmesan cheese, preferably Parmigiano Reggiano
Freshly ground pepper, nutmeg and sea salt

Snap off the root end of the asparagus where it breaks naturally; cook the asparagus in boiling salted water until al dente, drain and save.

Bring the water to a good rolling boil, add the salt and drop in the tagliatelle; cover the pot for just a few seconds until the water comes back to the boil. Cook the tagliatelle until barely al dente (remember it will cook a little more in the pan). Homemade tagliatelle will take only 1-2 minutes whereas bought pasta will take considerably longer – 10-12 minutes depending on the brand.

Cut the asparagus into thin slices at an angle (no thicker than ¼ inch/5mm). Melt the butter in a wide saucepan, add half the cream and simmer for a couple of minutes just until the cream thickens slightly; then add the asparagus, the hot drained tagliatelle, the rest of the cream and the cheese. Season with freshly ground pepper, nutmeg and sea salt. Toss briefly – just enough to coat the pasta, taste and add a little more seasoning if necessary. Serve immediately.

Asparagus and Spring Onion Tart

Serves 6

Shortcrust Pastry
4 ozs (110 g) white flour
2 ozs (55 g) butter
1 egg, preferably free-range

Filling
5 ozs (140 g) asparagus, trimmed and with ends peeled
½ oz (15 g) butter
1 tablespoon olive oil
9 ozs (255 g) onion, finely chopped (we use about half spring onion complete with green tops and half ordinary onion)
4 ozs (110 g) Irish Cheddar cheese, grated
3 eggs, preferably free-range
4 fl ozs (120 ml) cream
Salt and freshly ground pepper

1 x 7 inch (18 cm) quiche tin or 1 x 7 (18 cm) flan ring

First make the shortcrust pastry. Sieve the flour into a bowl and rub in the butter until the mixture resembles coarse breadcrumbs. Mix in the egg to bind the pastry. Add a little water if necessary, but don’t make the pastry too sticky. Chill for 15 minutes. Then roll out the pastry to line the quiche tin or flan ring to a thickness of 1/8 inch (3mm) approx. Line with greaseproof paper and fill to the top with dried beans and bake blind for approximately 20 minutes in a moderate oven, 180C/350F/Gas 4. Remove the beans, egg wash the base and return to the oven for 1-2 minutes. This seals the pastry and helps to avoid a ‘soggy bottom’.

Next make the filling. Melt the butter, add the olive oil and onions; sweat the onions with a good pinch of salt until soft but not coloured. 

Cook the asparagus in boiling salted water until al dente, then drain. When it is cool enough to handle, cut into ½ inch (1 cm) pieces. 

Whisk the eggs in a bowl; add the cream, almost all the cheese, onion and the cooked asparagus. Season with salt and freshly ground pepper. Pour into the pastry case, sprinkle the remainder of the cheese on top and bake in a moderate oven 180C/350F/Gas 4, for 40-45 minutes.

Asparagus and Mint Frittata

Serves 6

8 eggs, preferably free-range 
225g (8oz) thin asparagus
Salt and freshly ground pepper
55g (2oz) Parmesan, Parmigano Reggiano, freshly grated or
25g (1oz) Parmesan and 25g (1oz) Gruyere
2-3 tablespoons chopped mint leaves
2 tablespoons olive oil

non stick frying pan - 7½ inch (19cm) bottom, 9 inch (23cm) top rim 

Bring about 1 inch of water to the boil in an oval casserole. Trim the tough ends of the asparagus, add salt to the water and blanch the spears until just tender for 3 or 4 minutes. Drain. Slice the end of the spears evenly at an angle keep 1½ inches at the top intact. Save for later.

Whisk the eggs together into a bowl. Add the sliced asparagus, most of the grated Parmesan and chopped mint leaves, reserving a little for the end. Season well with salt and freshly ground pepper. 

Heat the oil in the pan, add egg mixture, reduce the heat. Continue to cook over a gentle heat until just set - about 12 minutes. Arrange the asparagus over the top. Sprinkle with the remaining mint and Parmesan. Pop under a grill for a few minutes but make sure it is at least 5 inches from the element. It should be set but not brown. Serve immediately , cut into wedges and follow with a green salad.

Bread Pudding with Asparagus and Fontina

Mary Risley from Tante Marie's Cooking school in San Francisco shared this delicious recipe with us.

Serves 8

12-16 thick slices of best quality white bread
600ml (1 pint) milk or 425ml (15 fl oz) + 140ml (5 fl oz) buttermilk
560g (1lb) asparagus
4 eggs, preferably free range and organic
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon freshly ground pepper
28g (¾oz) freshly grated Parmesan cheese, Parmigiano Reggiano
225 g (8oz) Fontina cheese, Swiss cheese or other white cheese, roughly grated
15g (2oz) butter

Lasagne dish: 10 x 8 inches in diameter

Preheat the oven to 180C/350F/regulo 4.

First butter the bread and then whisk the eggs with the milk. Trim the asparagus spears. Bring a little water to the boil in a heavy oval casserole, add salt. Add asparagus and cook for 3-4 minutes or until al dente. Drain and refresh under cold water. Cut in thin diagonal slivers. 

Pour a little of the egg and milk mixture into the base of a buttered lasagne dish. Arrange a layer of bread on top. Sprinkle half the asparagus over the bread. Season well with salt and freshly ground pepper. Strew one third of each of the cheeses on top. Pour some of the egg mixture on this layer then repeat the layers and seasoning and finish with a layer of bread. Pour the remainder of the liquid evenly over the top. Sprinkle with the remaining cheese. Bake in a bain-marie in the preheated oven for about 45 minutes or until crisp and golden on top. Serve with a good green salad.

Asparagus on Toast with Hollandaise Sauce

This is a simple and gorgeous way to serve fresh Irish asparagus during its short season, it

was my father-in-law's favourite way to eat Irish asparagus during its short season.
Serves 4

16-20 spears fresh green asparagus
Hollandaise sauce, (see recipe)
4 slices of homemade white yeast bread
butter
Garnish
sprigs of chervil

Hold each spear of asparagus over your index finger down near the root end, it will snap at the point where it begins to get tough. Some people like to peel the asparagus but we rarely do. Cook in about 2.5cm (1inch) of boiling salted water in an oval cast iron casserole. Cook for 4 or 8 minutes or until a knife tip will pierce the root end easily. Meanwhile make the toast, spread with butter and remove crusts. Place a piece of toast on a hot plate, put the asparagus on top and spoon a little Hollandaise sauce over. Garnish with a sprig of chervil and serve immediately.

Asparagus Bundles with Sauce Hollandaise
This is a rather fancy way to serve asparagus. you could dispense with the ties and just serve them with the sauce if you like
Serves 4

1½-2 lbs (560-900g) fresh asparagus
1 leek or some chives
Sauce Hollandaise 
Garnish
chervil

Wash the leek (if using) and cut in half lengthways. Blanch and refresh under cold water. Drain on kitchen paper. Peel and trim the root end of the asparagus. Cut into uniform lengths and save the trimmings for soup. 

Make the sauce and keep warm. Just before serving, cook the asparagus in boiling salted water. If you have a special asparagus pot, that's wonderful, but you can manage very well without it. Depending on the thickness of the spears it may take from 8-12 minutes to cook. Test by putting the tip of a sharp knife through the thicker end. Remove from the water and drain. Tie the asparagus into bundles of 3 or 5 with the strips of leek. Put a generous tablespoonful of Sauce Hollandaise on each warm plate and place the asparagus bundle on top. Garnish with chervil and serve immediately.

Sauce Hollandaise

Serves 4-6, depending on what it is to be served with.

2 egg yolks, free-range
4 ozs (110g) butter
1 dessertsp. cold water
1 teasp. lemon juice approx.

Serve with poached fish, eggs and vegetables

Put the egg yolks into a heavy stainless steel saucepan on a low heat, or in a bowl over hot water. Add the water and whisk thoroughly. Add the butter bit by bit, whisking all the time. As soon as one piece melts, add the next piece. The mixture will gradually thicken, but if it shows signs of becoming too thick or slightly 'scrambling' remove from the heat immediately and add a little cold water if necessary. Do not leave the pan or stop whisking until the sauce is made. Finally add the lemon juice to taste. If the sauce is slow to thicken it may be because you are excessively cautious and the heat is too low. Increase the heat slightly and continue to whisk until the sauce thickens to coating consistency.

It is important to remember that if you are making Hollandaise Sauce in a saucepan directly over the heat, it should be possible to put your hand on the side of the saucepan at any stage. If the saucepan feels too hot for your hand it is also too hot for the sauce.

Another good tip if you are making Hollandaise Sauce for the first time is to keep a bowl of cold water close by so you can plunge the bottom of the saucepan into it if it becomes too hot.

Keep the sauce warm until service either in a bowl over hot but not boiling water, or in a thermos flask. Hollandaise Sauce should not be reheated. Leftover sauce may be used as an enrichment for cream sauces, or mashed potatoes, or to perk up a fish pie etc.
Foolproof Food

Roast Asparagus with Sea Salt

This rather bizarre way of cooking asparagus comes to us from California. Roast asparagus may sound unlikely, but its flavour is wonderfully intense and particularly good served as part of a plate, which includes chargrilled red and yellow peppers, aubergine slices, chargrilled onions and courgettes with marjoram.

Serves 4

1 bunch of fresh Irish asparagus
1 tablespoon approx extra virgin olive oil
Sea salt (Maldon if possible)

Trim the asparagus and peel the root ends with a swivel top peeler. Drizzle the spears with a little olive oil. Toss gently to coat, season with sea salt, put onto a roasting tin and roast in a hot oven, 230C/450F/Gas 8, for 8-10 minutes.

Serve with crusty bread.


Hot Tips

Look out for fresh new season’s asparagus at your local Farmers’ Market –
Check out www.irelandmarkets.com  – this site will give you details of the farmers’ market nearest to you, also lists country markets in the area. Anyone setting up new markets should also contact the site for a wealth of advice and information.

Visit the seven new Artist Workshops at Stephen Pearce Gallery in Shanagarry, East Cork. This is a unique facility designed to support individual or small groups of artists in developing their art and craft which will be available for sale in the workshops – paintings, furnishings, textiles, jewellery, spices, pottery …..The project has been part funded by East Cork Area Development under the rural development scheme.

Great Taste Awards
Last week Bord Bia hosted a Speciality Food Forum for 150 leading buyers from UK, Ireland and Continental Europe with a combined purchasing power of almost €8 billion. To coincide with the event the UK Guild of Fine Food Retailers brought the Irish element of the Great Taste Awards to Ireland for the first time. Congratulations to Myrtle Allen who was presented with the inaugural Lifetime Achievement Award by the Taste Council for her pioneering work in promoting Irish food and cooking. 

Boulangerie, Patisserie, Epicerie, Viennoiserie, Brasserie, Trattoria – cobbled streets near Gare St Lazare – how divine is Paris. Its years since I’ve been here. The sun is shining, everyone seems to be in high spirits, Parisians dressed to impress, sitting at the pavement cafes drinking tea or sipping beer or a glass of wine. I’m over here for the weekend for my first ever ‘hen party’, twenty friends of a ‘certain age’ have converged excitedly on Paris to launch our friend on her very first venture up the aisle. She looks wonderful, absolutely radiant. We meet at sunset to toast her with lots of delicious fizz. Everyone comes bearing silly presies – a little veil, a tiara, lots of teeny frilly bits, each of which causes great hilarity when the parcels are opened.

Later we repair to La Closerie des Lilas for a delicious dinner. Grilled fat shrimps with risotto, Sea Bass with Anise Hollandaise with a tian of vegetables and a delicious charlotte of seasonal fruit for pudding.

For the rest of the weekend we drift in and out of groups, each following their own passion, some shopping, others seeking out museums or galleries. I caught the last day of the Bonnard Exhibition at the Musée d’Arte Moderne. Even by 9am on Saturday morning there was a considerable queue, but the bonus was the Farmers Market all along the Avenue Pierre de Serbie. Maybe 35 or 40 stalls brimming with vegetables and lots of food ready to eat, steaming soups, fat sandwiches, and some delicious Lebanese food. For breakfast I ordered several Lamajun, one with minced lamb, and another with sesame seeds, olive oil, pepper and thyme. They were cooked on a stove called a Sag, it looked like an upturned wok over a gas jet. Each had a topping of hummus and tabouleh – wish we could get more Lebanese food over here – so good. These can be made easily at home and are brilliant for an interactive kitchen supper.

I revisited some of my old haunts – I adore Café Flore – a Parisian institution, a great spot for people watching, I ordered a Croque Monsieur and watched the Parisians promenading with their little ‘chien’ on a lead. Deux Magots around the corner is also a favourite and overlooks the ancient church of St Germain de Prés. Across the road is Brasserie Lipp where I tucked into Choux Croute garni and Andouillettes for lunch. My friends wanted to know what the andouillettes were made from? I told them they didn’t need to know what they are made from, also difficult to describe the flavour - they taste like a barnyard smells! I so love all those delicious offaly bits that one can still get in France because the French really appreciate the flavour.

At the organic market on Rue Raspail on Sunday morning, the longest queues were at the stall selling unpasteurised milk and cream and yoghurt. Later in the day I visited Artisan baker Poilane in Rue Cherche Midi where I bought a huge sour dough loaf with the traditional P inscribed on the crust. They also sell the best bread knives in the world and melt in the mouth sablés and flaky apple tartlets. Round the corner is the legendary Maison du Chocolat, I don’t each much chocolate, but when I find exquisite temptations like these I can’t resist.

Two other highlights not to be missed on a weekend in Paris are Berthillon on Rue Saint-Louis-en-l’Ile and Angelina on Rue de Rivoli. Long established Berthillon still does the best ice-cream in Paris, they offer about 30 flavours a week which they change with the seasons. You can enjoy your favourite flavour in a little wafer basket or a cone, but try to make time to sit in the ice-cream parlour with its dark paneled walls and mirrors, and green mottled marble tables. My ice came piled high in a scalloped silver coupe, raspberry sorbet, vanilla bean ice-cream, fresh raspberries, fresh raspberry sauce and chopped pistachios. The bells of Notre Dame chimed in the background – bliss. My final treat was a hot chocolate at Angelina’s. At this celebrated Salon de Thé on Rue de Rivoli, they melt real chocolate to make the most sublime hot chocolate I have ever tasted. A few blissful minutes on the lips and surely a month on the hips, but worth every mouthful. You might also want to taste their Mont Blanc – a chestnut purée and meringue confection for which they are justly famous. Time to head for the airport – amazing how much one can fit into a weekend in Paris. Zagat’s restaurant guide is a must, to discover the best places for food-lovers to explore.

Closerie des Lilas, 171 Blvd du Montparnasse, 6e Tel 01 40 51 3450
Café les Deux Magots, 6 Place St Germain des Prés, 6e 01 45 48 55 25
Café de Flore, 172 Blvd. St Germain, 6e. Tel. 01 45 48 55 26
Brasserie Lipp, 151 Blvd. St Germain, 6e, Tel 01 45 48 5391

Lemon Tart with Candied Julienne of Lemon Peel – Tarte au Citron

Serves 8

Shortcrust Pastry (enough for two tarts)
11 ozs (310g) plain flour
6 ozs (170g) butter
2 ozs (55g) castor sugar
1 oz (30g) icing sugar
1 free range egg

Filling
3 eggs and 1 egg yolk
zest of 2 lemons (washed well)
juice of 3 lemons (200ml/7fl oz) and juice of 1 orange (150mls/¼ pint)
3 pint (150ml) generous ½ cup double cream
52 ozs (155g) sugar
Candied Julienne of Lemon Peel
2 lemons 
stock syrup made with 6 ozs (170g) sugar and 6 fl ozs (175ml) water, cooked together for 2 minutes.

1 x 8 inch (20.5cm) tin

First, make the pastry. This pastry can be made by various methods. Number 1 is our preferred method.

Make in a food processor. Stop as soon as the pastry starts to come together. Flatten, wrap and chill overnight if possible. 
or
Make by pâté brisée method. Flatten, wrap and chill overnight if possible. 
or
Make by the rubbing-in method. Flatten, wrap and chill for several hours if possible. 
If the pastry is needed urgently, divide into 2-3 equal parts. Flatten and chill for minimum 30 minutes, better still an hour.

Preheat the oven to 1801C/3501F regulo 4. 

Line the 8 inch (20.5cm) tin with pastry and bake it blind for 20-25 minutes until it is golden and fully cooked. Remove the beans, paint the base with a little egg white and replace in the oven for 2-3 minutes. When it is cooked, let it cool while the filling is prepared. Lower the oven temperatures to 160C/325F/regulo 3.

Grate the zest finely, (careful not to get any pith).

Whisk all the ingredients for the tart filling together - the eggs, orange and lemon juice, lemon zest, cream and sugar. When the mixture is nice and frothy, pour most of it into the tart shell. The mixture needs to come right to the top, but to avoid spilling it, put the partly filled tart into the oven (with the temperature now reduced) and finish filling it with a spoon.

Bake the tart until the filling has become firm. This should take about 35 minutes. Check by giving the tin a little shake. Take the tart out of the tin when it is lukewarm and leave it on a 

wire rack to cool. Decorate it crystallized lemon rind and tiny mint or lemon balm leaves. Best eaten on day it is made.

Candied Julienne of Lemon Peel

Peel 2 lemons very thinly with a swivel top peeler, be careful not to include the white pith, cut the strips into a fine julienne. Put in a saucepan with 2 cups of cold water and simmer for 5 minutes. Remove from the pot, refresh in cold water and repeat the process again. Put the julienne in a saucepan with the syrup and cook gently until the lemon julienne looks translucent or opaque. Remove with a slotted spoon and allow to cool on bakewell paper or a cake rack. When cold sprinkle with castor sugar.*

* Can be stored in a jar or airtight tin for weeks or sometimes months.

Tarte Tatin

The ultimate french apple tart. The Tatin sisters ran a restaurant at Lamotte-Beuvron in Sologne at the beginning of the century. They created this tart, some say accidentally, but however it came about it is a triumph - soft, buttery caramelised apples (or indeed you can also use pears) with crusty golden pastry underneath. It is unquestionably my favourite French tart! One can buy a special copper tatin especially for this tart.

Serves 6-8

1.24kg (2¾lb) approx. Golden Delicious, Cox’s Orange Pippin or Bramley Seedling cooking apples
170g (6oz) puff pastry or rich sweet shortcrust pastry 
110g (4oz)) unsalted butter
225g (8oz) castor sugar

a heavy 20.5cm (8inch) tatin mould or copper or stainless steel sautepan with low sides

Preheat the oven to 220ºC/425ºF/regulo 7 for puff pastry. For shortcrust -180ºC/350ºF/regulo 4.

First, roll out the pastry into a round slightly larger than the saucepan. Prick it all over with a fork and chill until needed.

Peel, halve and core the apples. Melt the butter in the saucepan, add the sugar and cook over a medium heat until it turns golden – fudge colour. Put the apple halves in upright, packing them in very tightly side by side. Replace the pan on a low heat and cook until the sugar and juice are a dark caramel colour. Hold your nerve otherwise it will be too pale. Put into a hot oven for approx. 15 minutes.

Cover the apples with the pastry and tuck in the edges. Put the saucepan into the fully preheated oven until the pastry is cooked and the apples are soft-25-30 minutes approx. For puff pastry reduce the temperature to 200C/400F/gas 6 after 10 minutes.

Take out of the oven and rest for 5-10 minutes or longer if you like. Put a plate over the top of the saucepan and flip the tart on to a serving plate. (Watch out - this is a rather tricky operation because the hot caramel and juice can ooze out). Reshape the tart if necessary and serve warm with softly whipped cream.

French Onion Soup with Gruyere Toasts

French onion soup is probably the best known and loved of all French soups. It was a favourite for breakfast in the cafes beside the old markets at Les Halles in Paris and is still a favourite on bistro menus at Rungis market. In France this soup is served in special white porcelain tureens.

Serve with a glass of gutsy French vin de table.
Serves 6

1.35kg (3 lb) onions
55g (2oz) butter
1.7Litre (3 pints) good homemade beef or chicken stock or vegetable stock
salt and freshly ground pepper
To Finish
6 slices of baguette (French bread), 2 inch (1cm) thick toasted
85g (3oz) grated Gruyére cheese

Peel the onions and slice thinly. Melt the butter in a saucepan. Add the onion and cook on a low heat for about 40-60 minutes with the lid off, stirring frequently - the onions should be dark and well caramelised but not burnt.

Add the stock, season with salt and freshly ground pepper, bring to the boil and cook for a further 10 minutes. Ladle into deep soup bowls, put a piece of toasted baguette covered with grated cheese on top of each one. Pop under the grill until the cheese melts and turns golden. Serve immediately but beware - it will be very hot. Bon appetit!

Useful tip: Hold your nerve: - The onions must be very well caramelized otherwise the soup will be too weak and sweet. 

Choucroute, Sausages and Bacon

Serves 8-10

3lb (1.3kg) sauerkraut
3 tablesp pork, lard, duck, goose or chicken fat, alternatively use olive oil
2 large onions, coarsely chopped
16 fl.oz (450ml) German Riesling white wine
8fl.oz (250ml) chicken stock or water
2lb (900g) thick pork shoulder chops
Freshly ground black pepper
3 cloves
8 juniper berries
2 bay leaves
2 sprigs of thyme
4 cloves garlic
6 knackwurst
6 fresh German frankfurters
1lb (450g) smoked pork sausage, eg Polish Kielbasa
2 lb (900g) potatoes
1lb (450g) streaky bacon, cut into large chunks

Preheat the oven to 350F (175C/gas 5)

Rinse the sauerkraut in a colander under cold running water. If it is very acidic or very salty, you many need to repeat several times. Drain well.

Melt the fat in a large casserole over a low heat, add the chopped onions. Saute until the onions are wilted, then add the wine and chicken stock or water. Add the pork chops. Cover with the sauerkraut. Add the pepper, cloves, juniper berries, bay leaves, and garlic. Cover and cook in the oven for 1-1½ hours. 

Meanwhile, cook the streaky bacon in lots of water until tender – 30 minutes approx.

Just before the sauerkraut is cooked, cook each variety of sausage in a separate saucepan in gently simmering water for 15-20 minutes. Be careful not to allow the water to boil or the sausages will burst. Drain all the sausages, slice the Polish kielbasa, and keep everything warm until serving time.

Meanwhile, boil or steam the potatoes. Peel and keep warm. 

To serve, drain the sauerkraut (removing the herbs and spices) and mound it in the centre of a large, heated serving platter. Surround the sauerkraut with the pork chops, the sausages, including the sliced kielbasa, the potatoes and the bacon. Serve with Dijon and grainy mustard and plenty of chilled white Riesling wine.

Lamajun with Sesame and Thyme Leaves

I first tasted this version of Lebanese flat bread Lamajun in the market on Rue Pierre de Serbie, close to the Museum d’Arte Moderne in Paris.

They are cooked on a concave stove called a sag which looked like an upturned wok. The beaming cook who turned these Lamajun and other toppings out like hot cakes, had a little roller which he dipped in the sesame and thyme mixture and used to cover the base evenly at the speed of light. 

Dough
10oz (275g) plain flour
8fl oz (225ml) natural yoghurt

Topping 
5 fl oz (150 ml) olive oil
2 tablespoons dried thyme
4 tablespoons sesame seeds
½ - 1 teaspoon sea salt

Hummus – optional
Tabouleh – optional

Heavy iron frying pan.
Mix all the ingredients for the topping in a bowl. 
Mix the flour with the yoghurt to form a soft dough. Heat the frying pan and preheat the grill.

Spread the topping evenly over the dough, a brush works well. Slap onto the hot pan. Cook for 3-4 minutes and flash under the grill. 
Serve alone or with Hummus and Tabbouleh.

Foolproof Food

Sablés

Makes 25

6 ozs (170g) white flour 
4 ozs (110g) unsalted butter
2 ozs (55g) castor sugar

Put the flour and sugar into a bowl, rub in the butter as for shortcrust pastry. Gather the mixture together and knead lightly. Roll out to ¼ inch (7mm) thick. Cut into rounds with a 2½ inch (6cm) cutter or into heart shapes. Bake in a moderate oven 180C/350F/regulo 4 to pale brown, 8-15 minutes, depending on the thickness of the biscuits. Remove and cool on a rack.
Serve with fruit fools, compotes and ice creams.

Note: Watch these biscuits really carefully in the oven. Because of the high sugar content they burn easily. They should be a pale golden colour - darker will be more bitter.

Hot Tips

The Skelligs Chocolate Company
The most westerly chocolate factory in Europe, have just launched a new easy to use on line shopping facility. Now from the comfort of their own home, customers can purchase from a range of Skelligs best-selling chocolate products, truffles, fudges and a recently introduced range of sugar free chocolates. All of Skelligs Chocolates are available in a range of packaging options including unique hand painted boxes and a range of chocolate hampers. Tel 066-9479119 info@skelligschocolate.com  www.skelligschocolate.com 

Fundraiser for HIV Clinic for children in Kampala in Africa
On Friday 16th June at John M Keatings, (formerly the church opposite the AXA Office) Mary St, Dublin at 8pm , entry €10 – West African Percussion Band, auction of terrific prizes and a DJ to finish off the night – further details from sarahtaaffe@eircom.net  

Taste of Dublin 2006
Dublin’s first outdoor gourmet food and drink festival will take place in the historic gardens of Dublin Castle, from Thursday 22nd June to Sunday June 25th 2006. 

Taste of Dublin, sponsored by Oceanico Developments, will present 15 of Dublin’s finest restaurants, each cooking up their signature dishes. In addition, there will be tutored wine and spirit tastings, artisan food stalls, a large Chefs’ Demonstration Theatre, themed bars and lots more entertainment for foodies and wine lovers alike.

Participating restaurants in Taste of Dublin 2006 include Bang Café, Chapter One, Diep Le Shaker, Jaipur, King Sitric, La Stampa, L’Ecrivain, Peploes Wine Bistro, Roly’s Bistro, Silk Road Café, The Cellar Restaurant at The Merrion, Town Bar & Grill, Unicorn, Yo’Thai & Chai-Yo.

Feeling the heat in the Chef’s Theatre will be a constellation of star names including Anthony Worrall Thompson, Derry Clarke, Darina Allen, Kevin Dundon, Rachel Allen, Richard Corrigan and Ross Lewis. www.tasteofdublin06.ie 

Slurpy noodles are one of the world’s most comforting foods -the fast food of the 21st century, high in complex carbohydrates and low in fat.

Noodles are central to Asian cooking. They star in a myriad of dishes in Japan, Korea, China, Vietnam, Thailand, Malaysia and Indonesia. They add substance to soups, salads, meat dishes and make a pleasing accompaniment to curry. They can be stir-fried, or cooked in an aromatic broth. Some frizzle up deliciously when they are deep-fried. Their flexibility and sheer convenience make them a thoroughly modern food.

Noodles come in a mind-boggling array of sizes, shapes and colours.

1. Rice noodles – sometimes called rice stick noodles or vermicelli noodles. They only need to be soaked in boiling water for a few minutes, drained, and then they are ready to be used in soups, salads, stir-fries, spring rolls… Rice noodles have the added bonus of being gluten and wheat free.

2. Buckwheat noodles – are an unappetizing shade of browny grey, but don’t be put off – they’ve got a delicious nutty flavour. In Korea they are called naengmyon. In Japan they are called soba and are often served cold, dipped in a light sauce – also gluten and wheat free. 

3. Bean thread noodles – sometimes referred to as cellophane noodles, great in salads and laksa.

4. Wheat noodles – purported to be the oldest form of Chinese noodle, have a firm silky bite. The thin version called somen noodles are great in soups, while the thicker fat white unctuous, slippery Udon noodles are better in stir-fries or in dishes with a rich sauce.

5. Egg noodles – the word immediately conjures up images of the archetypal Chinese noodle – they come both thick and thin.

Ramen, also egg noodles have a defined place in Japanese cooking.

All the above come dried, so they are a brilliant option for the kitchen store cupboard, and once you get on the noodle groove, there are millions of recipes that you can whip up in a matter of minutes.

If you are already nutty about noodles, or need further inspiration., a terrific book has just been published by Kyle Cathie - Wagamama – ways with noodles. 

Author Hugo Arnold’s enthusiasm rings through every page of the book. He is a self confessed noodle head, so when he was asked to write the Wagamama Cookbook the opportunity to indulge in even more noodle dishes was too great a temptation to ignore.

The name Wagamama has become synonomous with noodles, particularly Ramen, ever since they opened the first Wagamama in London in 1992 . Wagamama which opened in Cork in March 2005, was the 45th world wide, and by the end of last year there were 50 and still going strong.

The food is all about speedy, nutritious dishes which satisfy deliciously but don’t make on feel over full.

Here are some recipes from Wagamama – Ways with noodles by Hugo Arnold, published by Kyle Cathie.  Buy from Amazon

Stir-fried Chicken and Mushrooms with Somen Noodles

Serves 2

100 g (4 oz) somen noodles
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
2 chicken breasts, cut into bite sized slices
75 g (3 oz) button mushrooms, thinly sliced
75 g (3 oz) shiitake mushrooms, thinly sliced
3 cm (1¼ in) piece of ginger root, peeled and grated
2 garlic cloves, peeled and mashed
2 teaspoons soy sauce
1 tablespoon sake
1 tablespoon mirin – see note
1 lime, cut into wedges
Handful of coriander leaves

Cook the noodles according to the instructions on the packet, drain and refresh under cold water. 

Heat the oil in a hot wok over a medium heat and stir-fry the chicken, mushrooms, ginger and garlic for 2-3 minutes. Add the soy sauce, sake, mirin and 2 tablespoons water, continue to stir fry for 2 minutes or until the chicken is cooked.
Stir in the noodles to heat through and serve with a wedge of lime and a scattering of coriander leaves.

Note: Sake, which is combined with sugar so it has a sweet, tangy flavour. It is used in small quantities to give a smooth roundness to dishes.

Hot and Sour Pork and Prawns with Ramen Noodles

Serves 2

125 g (5 oz) ramen noodles
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
125 g (5 oz) minced pork
6 button mushrooms, sliced
Bunch of spring onions, cut into 6 cm (2½ in) lengths
100 g (4 oz) raw, peeled prawns
2 red chillies, deseeded and finely-sliced
2 garlic cloves, peeled and minced with a little salt
2 teaspoons muscovado sugar
1 tablespoon fish sauce (nam pla)
1 tablespoon rice vinegar
2 handfuls of beansprouts
2 tablespoons roughly chopped coriander leaves
1 lime, halved

Cook the noodles according to the instructions on the packet, drain and refresh under cold water. 
Heat the oil in a hot wok and stir fry the pork for 3 minutes, then add the mushrooms, spring onions, prawns, chillies, garlic, sugar, fish sauce and rice vinegar. Stir-fry for a further 3 minutes.

Add the noodles and toss to ensure that everything is well combined. 
Divide between 2 bowls and serve topped with the beansprouts and coriander and a lime half to squeeze over.

Wide Noodle Hot-Pot with Seven Vegetables

Serves 2

2 small pak choi, quartered lengthways
75 g (3 oz) broccoli, cut into small florets
50 g (2 oz) wide rice noodles
150 ml (5 fl oz) chicken stock 
2 tablespoons mirin
3 tablespoons soy sauce
2 teaspoons sugar
1 garlic clove, peeled and mashed
2 cm (¾ in) piece of ginger root, peeled and grated
1 red chilli, chopped
Handful of finely shredded Chinese cabbage
Handful of mangetout
2 carrots, thinly sliced
1 small courgette, thinly sliced
4 shiitake mushrooms, thinly sliced
Handful of coriander leaves

Blanch the pak choi and broccoli in a pan of boiling water until just tender. Drain and refresh under cold water.
Cook the noodles according to the instructions on the packet, drain and refresh under cold water.

Put the stock, mirin, soy sauce, garlic, ginger and chilli in a heavy, lidded saucepan, cover and bring to the boil. Add the Chinese cabbage, mangetout, carrots, courgette and mushrooms and cook for 4 minutes, or until softened but still crunchy. Add the blanched vegetables and noodles, check the seasoning and simmer over a gentle heat for 2 minutes. Allow to rest for 2 minutes, stir in the coriander and serve.

Soba Noodle Salad

Serves 2

for the dressing
1 teaspoon honey
1 teaspoon fish sauce (nam pla)
1 teaspoon rice vinegar
1 teaspoon mirin

100 g (4 oz) soba noodles
Zest and juice of 1 lime
8 radishes, thinly sliced
½ cucumber, deseeded and finely sliced
1 carrot, julienned
bunch of mint, leaves roughly chopped
2 handfuls of spinach, roughly chopped
salt and white pepper

Cook the noodles according to the instructions on the packet, drain and refresh under cold water.
Mix together the dressing ingredients in a small pan, bring to the boil and set aside to cool. Stir in the lime zest and juice.
Combine the noodles with the radishes, cucumber, carrot, mint and spinach, add the cooled dressing and toss to ensure that everything is coated. Check the seasoning and serve.

Seafood Salad with Wilted Greens

Serves 2

for the dressing
1 tablespoon toasted sesame oil
2 tablespoons soy sauce
½ teaspoon sugar
2 tablespoons rice vinegar
2 spring onions, finely sliced
3 cm (1¼ in) piece of ginger root, peeled and grated
2 garlic cloves, peeled and minced with a little salt

100g (4 oz) cellophane noodles
1 head little gem lettuce, trimmed and shredded
small handful of mangetout, thinly sliced lengthways
small handful of beansprouts
¼ cucumber, deseeded and julienned
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
4 scallops, trimmed (if large, slice horizontally)
4 raw, peeled prawns
8 clams, well rinsed and drained
handful of spinach
bunch of coriander, leaves picked

Soak the noodles according to the instructions on the packet, drain and refresh under cold water. Roughly chop and put into a large bowl.

Combine the dressing ingredients and stir to dissolve the sugar. Add to the bowl with the lettuce, mangetout, beansprouts and cucumber, toss well and check the seasoning. Heat the oil in a hot wok over a medium heat and stir fry the scallops, prawns and clams for 2 minutes until cooked and the clams are open.
Add the spinach, wilt briefly over the heat and add everything to the salad bowl. Toss well, adding in the coriander as you go, and serve.

Marinated Duck Salad

Serves 2

for the marinade
1 teaspoon rice vinegar
1 teaspoon honey
1 teaspoon soy sauce

1 duck breast, sliced on the diagonal
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
200 g (8 oz) somen noodles
bunch of spring onions, sliced lengthways
½ cucumber, deseeded and julienned
1 carrot, julienned
2 tablespoons hoisin sauce
salt and white pepper
2 teaspoons sesame seeds, briefly toasted in a hot, dry frying pan

Combine the marinade ingredients in a small pan with 100 ml (3½ fl oz) cold water, bring to the boil and remove from the heat as soon as the honey has melted. Allow to cool completely and pour over the duck slices. Toss gently and set aside for 1 hour; overnight in the fridge is even better.

Pour the marinade off the duck and discard. Heat the oil in a hot wok and stir fry the duck for 3-4 minutes until cooked. Set aside.
Cook the noodles according to the instructions on the packet, drain and refresh under cold water.

Combine the noodles with the spring onions, cucumber, carrot and hoisin sauce in a large bowl. Add the duck and toss everything gently so it is well mixed and coated. Season to taste with salt and pepper. 
Serve topped with the sesame seeds.

Stir-fried prawns and pork with crispy noodles

Serves 2

100g (3½ oz) raw, peeled tiger prawns
50g (2oz) rice vermicelli
Vegetable oil
2 tablesp. finely chopped shallots
3 garlic cloves, peeled and finely sliced
Pinch of chilli flakes (or to taste)
200g (7oz) minced pork
Large handful of beansprouts
½ teasp light brown sugar
1 tablesp. Fish sauce (nam pla)
1 tablesp. mirin 
Small handful of coriander leaves
Juice of 1 lime

Butterfly the prawns by cutting each one lengthways almost right the way through, and open out the two halves.

Put the vermicelli into a small bag and break into short lengths. Heat 3cm (1¼ in) oil in a hot wok and stir fry the shallots for 1 minute. Add the garlic, chilli flakes and pork and continue stir frying for a further 2 minutes or until the pork is almost cooked. Add the prawns, beansprouts, sugar , fish sauce and mirin and continue stir frying for a further 2-3 minutes or until the prawns are cooked. Toss the coriander through.

Serve the pork and prawn mixture on top of the noodles with the lime juice squeezed over.

Foolproof Food

Sweet Chilli Dipping Sauce

Makes about 200 ml

250 g (10 oz) red chillies, trimmed
3 garlic cloves, peeled and roughly chopped
100 g (4 oz) light brown sugar
2 teaspoons white wine vinegar

Combine everything in a small pan with 100 ml (3½ fl oz) water, bring to the boil and simmer over a moderate heat until soft, about 5 minutes. Blitz in a blender and season with a scant teaspoon of salt. Return to the pan; simmer for a further 10 minutes, taking care not to let it catch on the bottom. Allow cool and refrigerate.

Many bought sweet chilli sauces deliver too much sweetness and not a lot of character in the chilli, two things which you maintain control over when you make this all-purpose sauce at home. It will last indefinitely in the fridge and is, according to some, rather good on a bacon sandwich in place of ketchup.

Hot Tips

For a selection of noodles try Mr Bell’s stall in the English Market in Cork, the Asia Market at 18 Drury St. and the Oriental Emporium at 25 South Great Georges Street, both in Dublin 2.

East Cork Slow Food present Paul Waddington, author of ‘21st Century Smallholder at Ballymaloe Cookery School, Shanagarry, Co Cork on Wednesday 24th May at 7pm - €15 members and €20 non-members – booking essential. Tel 021-4646785 or email info@cookingisfun.ie  

‘What food is practical to both grow and raise at home, whether you have just a tiny balcony or a garden? The focus of this talk is on practicality: how much time does it take, is it worth the bother, how much will it cost me? There will be an emphasis on the gourmet and nutritional reasons for growing your own food.’

Another opportunity to hear Paul Waddington at the Cork City Slow Food Workshop on Tuesday 23rd May at 7pm at the Imperial Hotel –

‘Growing and Raising Food with Paul Waddington and Caroline Robinson’ - €8 members and €10 non-members, includes glass of wine. Optional supper at Jacques Restaurant in Cork at 9pm – set dinner and glass of wine - €36 members and €41 non-members. Tel Clodagh McKenna on 087-7971776 email:clodaghmckenna@eircom.net 

The Organic Centre, Rosinver, Co Letrim
Workshop on Cooking with Seaweeds by Dr. Prannie Rhatigan 27th May.
Tel. 071-9854338 Organicentre@eircom.net  www.theorganiccentre.ie  

Glebe House, Baltimore, Co Cork
Plant sale today Saturday 20th May from midday – Café open weekends till June and then Wednesday to Sunday inclusive till September. Driving into Baltimore there is a ‘Baltimore’ sign on the left – entrance is directly opposite on the right.

Wise Woman Weekend 26-28 May 2006 at Dromahair, Co Leitrim
A weekend of learning, discovery, celebration and fun. www.wisewomanireland.com  info@wisewomanireland.com  Tel 071-913 4913 or 086-8286303

Slurpy noodles are one of the world’s most comforting foods -the fast food of the 21st century, high in complex carbohydrates and low in fat.

Noodles are central to Asian cooking. They star in a myriad of dishes in Japan, Korea, China, Vietnam, Thailand, Malaysia and Indonesia. They add substance to soups, salads, meat dishes and make a pleasing accompaniment to curry. They can be stir-fried, or cooked in an aromatic broth. Some frizzle up deliciously when they are deep-fried. Their flexibility and sheer convenience make them a thoroughly modern food.

Noodles come in a mind-boggling array of sizes, shapes and colours.

1. Rice noodles – sometimes called rice stick noodles or vermicelli noodles. They only need to be soaked in boiling water for a few minutes, drained, and then they are ready to be used in soups, salads, stir-fries, spring rolls… Rice noodles have the added bonus of being gluten and wheat free.

2. Buckwheat noodles – are an unappetizing shade of browny grey, but don’t be put off – they’ve got a delicious nutty flavour. In Korea they are called naengmyon. In Japan they are called soba and are often served cold, dipped in a light sauce – also gluten and wheat free. 

3. Bean thread noodles – sometimes referred to as cellophane noodles, great in salads and laksa.

4. Wheat noodles – purported to be the oldest form of Chinese noodle, have a firm silky bite. The thin version called somen noodles are great in soups, while the thicker fat white unctuous, slippery Udon noodles are better in stir-fries or in dishes with a rich sauce.

5. Egg noodles – the word immediately conjures up images of the archetypal Chinese noodle – they come both thick and thin.

Ramen, also egg noodles have a defined place in Japanese cooking.

All the above come dried, so they are a brilliant option for the kitchen store cupboard, and once you get on the noodle groove, there are millions of recipes that you can whip up in a matter of minutes.

If you are already nutty about noodles, or need further inspiration., a terrific book has just been published by Kyle Cathie - Wagamama – ways with noodles. 

Author Hugo Arnold’s enthusiasm rings through every page of the book. He is a self confessed noodle head, so when he was asked to write the Wagamama Cookbook the opportunity to indulge in even more noodle dishes was too great a temptation to ignore.

The name Wagamama has become synonomous with noodles, particularly Ramen, ever since they opened the first Wagamama in London in 1992 . Wagamama which opened in Cork in March 2005, was the 45th world wide, and by the end of last year there were 50 and still going strong.

The food is all about speedy, nutritious dishes which satisfy deliciously but don’t make on feel over full.

Here are some recipes from Wagamama – Ways with noodles by Hugo Arnold, published by Kyle Cathie.  Buy from Amazon

Stir-fried Chicken and Mushrooms with Somen Noodles

Serves 2

100 g (4 oz) somen noodles
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
2 chicken breasts, cut into bite sized slices
75 g (3 oz) button mushrooms, thinly sliced
75 g (3 oz) shiitake mushrooms, thinly sliced
3 cm (1¼ in) piece of ginger root, peeled and grated
2 garlic cloves, peeled and mashed
2 teaspoons soy sauce
1 tablespoon sake
1 tablespoon mirin – see note
1 lime, cut into wedges
Handful of coriander leaves

Cook the noodles according to the instructions on the packet, drain and refresh under cold water. 

Heat the oil in a hot wok over a medium heat and stir-fry the chicken, mushrooms, ginger and garlic for 2-3 minutes. Add the soy sauce, sake, mirin and 2 tablespoons water, continue to stir fry for 2 minutes or until the chicken is cooked.
Stir in the noodles to heat through and serve with a wedge of lime and a scattering of coriander leaves.

Note: Sake, which is combined with sugar so it has a sweet, tangy flavour. It is used in small quantities to give a smooth roundness to dishes.

Hot and Sour Pork and Prawns with Ramen Noodles

Serves 2

125 g (5 oz) ramen noodles
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
125 g (5 oz) minced pork
6 button mushrooms, sliced
Bunch of spring onions, cut into 6 cm (2½ in) lengths
100 g (4 oz) raw, peeled prawns
2 red chillies, deseeded and finely-sliced
2 garlic cloves, peeled and minced with a little salt
2 teaspoons muscovado sugar
1 tablespoon fish sauce (nam pla)
1 tablespoon rice vinegar
2 handfuls of beansprouts
2 tablespoons roughly chopped coriander leaves
1 lime, halved

Cook the noodles according to the instructions on the packet, drain and refresh under cold water. 
Heat the oil in a hot wok and stir fry the pork for 3 minutes, then add the mushrooms, spring onions, prawns, chillies, garlic, sugar, fish sauce and rice vinegar. Stir-fry for a further 3 minutes.

Add the noodles and toss to ensure that everything is well combined. 
Divide between 2 bowls and serve topped with the beansprouts and coriander and a lime half to squeeze over.

Wide Noodle Hot-Pot with Seven Vegetables

Serves 2

2 small pak choi, quartered lengthways
75 g (3 oz) broccoli, cut into small florets
50 g (2 oz) wide rice noodles
150 ml (5 fl oz) chicken stock 
2 tablespoons mirin
3 tablespoons soy sauce
2 teaspoons sugar
1 garlic clove, peeled and mashed
2 cm (¾ in) piece of ginger root, peeled and grated
1 red chilli, chopped
Handful of finely shredded Chinese cabbage
Handful of mangetout
2 carrots, thinly sliced
1 small courgette, thinly sliced
4 shiitake mushrooms, thinly sliced
Handful of coriander leaves

Blanch the pak choi and broccoli in a pan of boiling water until just tender. Drain and refresh under cold water.
Cook the noodles according to the instructions on the packet, drain and refresh under cold water.

Put the stock, mirin, soy sauce, garlic, ginger and chilli in a heavy, lidded saucepan, cover and bring to the boil. Add the Chinese cabbage, mangetout, carrots, courgette and mushrooms and cook for 4 minutes, or until softened but still crunchy. Add the blanched vegetables and noodles, check the seasoning and simmer over a gentle heat for 2 minutes. Allow to rest for 2 minutes, stir in the coriander and serve.

Soba Noodle Salad

Serves 2

for the dressing
1 teaspoon honey
1 teaspoon fish sauce (nam pla)
1 teaspoon rice vinegar
1 teaspoon mirin

100 g (4 oz) soba noodles
Zest and juice of 1 lime
8 radishes, thinly sliced
½ cucumber, deseeded and finely sliced
1 carrot, julienned
bunch of mint, leaves roughly chopped
2 handfuls of spinach, roughly chopped
salt and white pepper

Cook the noodles according to the instructions on the packet, drain and refresh under cold water.
Mix together the dressing ingredients in a small pan, bring to the boil and set aside to cool. Stir in the lime zest and juice.
Combine the noodles with the radishes, cucumber, carrot, mint and spinach, add the cooled dressing and toss to ensure that everything is coated. Check the seasoning and serve.

Seafood Salad with Wilted Greens

Serves 2

for the dressing
1 tablespoon toasted sesame oil
2 tablespoons soy sauce
½ teaspoon sugar
2 tablespoons rice vinegar
2 spring onions, finely sliced
3 cm (1¼ in) piece of ginger root, peeled and grated
2 garlic cloves, peeled and minced with a little salt

100g (4 oz) cellophane noodles
1 head little gem lettuce, trimmed and shredded
small handful of mangetout, thinly sliced lengthways
small handful of beansprouts
¼ cucumber, deseeded and julienned
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
4 scallops, trimmed (if large, slice horizontally)
4 raw, peeled prawns
8 clams, well rinsed and drained
handful of spinach
bunch of coriander, leaves picked

Soak the noodles according to the instructions on the packet, drain and refresh under cold water. Roughly chop and put into a large bowl.

Combine the dressing ingredients and stir to dissolve the sugar. Add to the bowl with the lettuce, mangetout, beansprouts and cucumber, toss well and check the seasoning. Heat the oil in a hot wok over a medium heat and stir fry the scallops, prawns and clams for 2 minutes until cooked and the clams are open.
Add the spinach, wilt briefly over the heat and add everything to the salad bowl. Toss well, adding in the coriander as you go, and serve.

Marinated Duck Salad

Serves 2

for the marinade
1 teaspoon rice vinegar
1 teaspoon honey
1 teaspoon soy sauce

1 duck breast, sliced on the diagonal
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
200 g (8 oz) somen noodles
bunch of spring onions, sliced lengthways
½ cucumber, deseeded and julienned
1 carrot, julienned
2 tablespoons hoisin sauce
salt and white pepper
2 teaspoons sesame seeds, briefly toasted in a hot, dry frying pan

Combine the marinade ingredients in a small pan with 100 ml (3½ fl oz) cold water, bring to the boil and remove from the heat as soon as the honey has melted. Allow to cool completely and pour over the duck slices. Toss gently and set aside for 1 hour; overnight in the fridge is even better.

Pour the marinade off the duck and discard. Heat the oil in a hot wok and stir fry the duck for 3-4 minutes until cooked. Set aside.
Cook the noodles according to the instructions on the packet, drain and refresh under cold water.

Combine the noodles with the spring onions, cucumber, carrot and hoisin sauce in a large bowl. Add the duck and toss everything gently so it is well mixed and coated. Season to taste with salt and pepper. 
Serve topped with the sesame seeds.

Stir-fried prawns and pork with crispy noodles

Serves 2

100g (3½ oz) raw, peeled tiger prawns
50g (2oz) rice vermicelli
Vegetable oil
2 tablesp. finely chopped shallots
3 garlic cloves, peeled and finely sliced
Pinch of chilli flakes (or to taste)
200g (7oz) minced pork
Large handful of beansprouts
½ teasp light brown sugar
1 tablesp. Fish sauce (nam pla)
1 tablesp. mirin 
Small handful of coriander leaves
Juice of 1 lime

Butterfly the prawns by cutting each one lengthways almost right the way through, and open out the two halves.

Put the vermicelli into a small bag and break into short lengths. Heat 3cm (1¼ in) oil in a hot wok and stir fry the shallots for 1 minute. Add the garlic, chilli flakes and pork and continue stir frying for a further 2 minutes or until the pork is almost cooked. Add the prawns, beansprouts, sugar , fish sauce and mirin and continue stir frying for a further 2-3 minutes or until the prawns are cooked. Toss the coriander through.

Serve the pork and prawn mixture on top of the noodles with the lime juice squeezed over.

Foolproof Food

Sweet Chilli Dipping Sauce

Makes about 200 ml

250 g (10 oz) red chillies, trimmed
3 garlic cloves, peeled and roughly chopped
100 g (4 oz) light brown sugar
2 teaspoons white wine vinegar

Combine everything in a small pan with 100 ml (3½ fl oz) water, bring to the boil and simmer over a moderate heat until soft, about 5 minutes. Blitz in a blender and season with a scant teaspoon of salt. Return to the pan; simmer for a further 10 minutes, taking care not to let it catch on the bottom. Allow cool and refrigerate.

Many bought sweet chilli sauces deliver too much sweetness and not a lot of character in the chilli, two things which you maintain control over when you make this all-purpose sauce at home. It will last indefinitely in the fridge and is, according to some, rather good on a bacon sandwich in place of ketchup.

Hot Tips

For a selection of noodles try Mr Bell’s stall in the English Market in Cork, the Asia Market at 18 Drury St. and the Oriental Emporium at 25 South Great Georges Street, both in Dublin 2.

East Cork Slow Food present Paul Waddington, author of ‘21st Century Smallholder at Ballymaloe Cookery School, Shanagarry, Co Cork on Wednesday 24th May at 7pm - €15 members and €20 non-members – booking essential. Tel 021-4646785 or email info@cookingisfun.ie  

‘What food is practical to both grow and raise at home, whether you have just a tiny balcony or a garden? The focus of this talk is on practicality: how much time does it take, is it worth the bother, how much will it cost me? There will be an emphasis on the gourmet and nutritional reasons for growing your own food.’

Another opportunity to hear Paul Waddington at the Cork City Slow Food Workshop on Tuesday 23rd May at 7pm at the Imperial Hotel –

‘Growing and Raising Food with Paul Waddington and Caroline Robinson’ - €8 members and €10 non-members, includes glass of wine. Optional supper at Jacques Restaurant in Cork at 9pm – set dinner and glass of wine - €36 members and €41 non-members. Tel Clodagh McKenna on 087-7971776 email:clodaghmckenna@eircom.net 

The Organic Centre, Rosinver, Co Letrim
Workshop on Cooking with Seaweeds by Dr. Prannie Rhatigan 27th May.
Tel. 071-9854338 Organicentre@eircom.net  www.theorganiccentre.ie  

Glebe House, Baltimore, Co Cork
Plant sale today Saturday 20th May from midday – Café open weekends till June and then Wednesday to Sunday inclusive till September. Driving into Baltimore there is a ‘Baltimore’ sign on the left – entrance is directly opposite on the right.

Wise Woman Weekend 26-28 May 2006 at Dromahair, Co Leitrim
A weekend of learning, discovery, celebration and fun. www.wisewomanireland.com  info@wisewomanireland.com  Tel 071-913 4913 or 086-8286303