Archive2009

Growing Vegetables in Schools

Despite the hardship that many are enduring as the result of the economic meltdown, much good is emerging at grass roots level. Many are rediscovering the joy of thrift and self sufficiency. At a recent Grow-your-own-vegetable lecture organised by Cork Free Choice Consumer Group and given by organic growers Caroline Robinson and Rupert Hugh-Jones, at the Crawford Gallery in Cork, over fifty people had to be turned away. There was standing room only, people were packed in like sardines anxious to learn or relearn how to grow food in their town and country gardens.
In Waterford a very successful food producer’s network has been established by young journalist Michael Kelly and Donal Lehane. This group meets once a month in the Waterford City library to learn and share what used to be known as home making skills; how to grow vegetables and fruit, how to keep a few chickens and even a couple of weanling pigs. They are planning to operate on a meithil system, where members share plants and seeds and the bounty they grow. A recent meeting in the the City Library; was jam packed and the atmosphere warm and neighbourly.
It’s a similar situation in many places around the country, gardening courses are over subscribed in many places. Once again everyone reports that there seems to be a deep craving for knowledge.
The Irish Beekeeping Association are also holding free Beginners Beekeeping courses all around the country at present check www.irishbeekeeping.ie for details.
Minister for Food Trevor Sergeant is also doing his bit to spread the word, last year much to the amusement of some of his colleagues he organised to send a potato pack to every school in Ireland so 120,000 children could learn the magic of growing potatoes.
The initiative was a resounding success, warmly welcomed not just by pupils but by the teachers and parents many of whom responded to their children’s excitement by growing a few drills of potatoes at home.
This year the Minister has extended the scheme, schools will have the opportunity to grow not just the humble spud but cabbage, lettuce, scallion and strawberry crops. Each participating class will create a scrapbook (growing diary) documenting the growth, maintenance and progress of their crops and all additional farming activities the pupils participate in. A national prize-giving ceremony will award over €10,000 in educational funds to the winning schools. Every school gets a complete kit including a DVD completely free. The aim of this educational challenge is to provide school children with an understanding of the importance of farming, promote the benefits and increase consumption of local Irish produce. Each child will be provided with an ‘Incredible Edibles’ recipe and nutritional book and encouraged to prepare meals and snacks with their parents. This aspect of the programme has been developed in conjunction with Paula Mee.
So even if you only have a balcony or a window box and a few pots you can grow some food, a few herbs, some cut and come salad leaves, scallions… It’s not rocket science, just fork up the soil, run your finger along to make an indentation, drop in the seeds, cover and don’t forget to water.
Friends and neighbours in towns and estates could each agree to grow 3 or 4 packets of vegetable seeds and then share rather than having a huge glut of one crop.
From the cook’s point of view, it is a joy to have truly fresh organic produce to pick and share at a whim. Growing your own vegetables gives one a much greater appreciation of food and the time and energy that goes into producing it. It also engenders a respect for the farmers and growers who look after the crops for months on end to feed and nourish us.
When you and your family grow your own, everyone treats it with respect and we are much less likely to over cook it in the kitchen. Even if it’s only a cabbage or a few spuds, eating it feels like a celebration and it truly is.
From this time of the year to the end of April is called the ‘hungry gap’ many of the winter vegetables are coming to an end and the summer bounty is still far off or still in a seed packet. Nonetheless there’s still lots to enjoy.

Warm Salad of Jerusalem Artichokes with Hazelnut Oil Dressing

Serves 4

White turnips or Kohl Rabi are also delicious cooked and served in exactly the same way.

12 ozs (340g) Jerusalem Artichokes, very carefully peeled to a smooth shape

salt and freshly ground pepper

1/2 oz (15g) hazelnuts, toasted and sliced

a few leaves oakleaf lettuce

Garnish

sprigs of chervil

Hazelnut Oil Dressing

3 tablesp hazelnut oil or

1 1/2 tablesp hazelnut oil and

1 1/2 tablesp sunflower oil

1 1/2 tablesp white wine vinegar

1 teasp. Dijon mustard

salt, freshly ground pepper and sugar to taste

Slice the artichoke about 1/2 inch thick. Bring 4 fl ozs (110ml) water and  oz butter to the boil in a heavy saucepan and add in the sliced artichokes. Season with salt and freshly ground pepper. Put a lid on the saucepan and cook gently until they are almost cooked. Turn off the heat and allow to sit in the covered saucepan until they are almost tender. The maddening thing about artichokes is that they cook unevenly so it will be necessary to test them with a skewer at regular intervals; they usually take at least 15 minutes.

While the artichokes are cooking, prepare the Hazelnut dressing by mixing all the ingredients together. Slice the hazelnuts and reserve for garnish.When the artichokes are cooked carefully remove from the saucepan, making sure not to break them up.

Place on a flat dish in a single layer.  Spoon over the hazelnut dressing and toss while still warm. Taste and correct the seasoning if necessary.


To assemble the salad.
Divide the sliced artichokes between 4 plates. Put a little circle of lettuce around the vegetables and sprinkle some of the dressing over the lettuce. Garnish with the toasted hazelnuts and chervil sprigs. This salad is best when the artichokes are eaten while still warm.

Carrot Soup with Wild Garlic Cream

Winter carrots are still good and wild garlic is just coming into season, if you can find it why not add some to this soup. Carrot soup is also delicious on it’s own.

Serves 6 approx.

560g (1¼ lbs) unwashed organic carrots, scrubbed, peeled and chopped into ¼ inch (5mm) dice
40g (1½ ozs) butter
115g (4ozs) onion, chopped into ¼ inch (5mm) dice
130g (5ozs) potatoes, chopped into ¼ inch (5mm) dice
Salt, freshly ground pepper and sugar
1.2L (2 pints) homemade chicken stock
65ml (2½ fl ozs) creamy milk, (optional)
a fistful of wild garlic leaves roughly chopped
Wild Garlic Cream


3-4 tablesp softly whipped cream
1 – 2 tablesp wild garlic leaves, chopped
1 tablesp freshly chopped parsley
wild garlic flowers

Melt the butter in a medium-sized saucepan, when it foams add the chopped vegetables. Season with salt, freshly ground pepper and sugar. Cover with a butter paper and a tight fitting lid. Allow to sweat gently on a low heat for about 10 minutes or until the vegetables have softened slightly. Remove the lid. Add the stock, increase the heat and boil until the vegetables are soft. Pour into a liquidiser, add a fistful of wild garlic leaves and puree until smooth, (you may need to do this in two batches). Taste and adjust seasoning. Add a little creamy milk if necessary. Fold the chopped wild garlic leaves and parsley into the softly whipped cream. Garnish with a blob of wild garlic cream, garnish with a few wild garlic flowers and serve.

Vegetable Stew with Fresh Spices and Banana and Yoghurt Raita

Serves 6
This spicy stew tastes even better the day after you make it.  Vary the vegetables depending on what you have to hand.

4-8 carrots
2 large parsnips or white turnips
4 oz (110 g) button mushrooms
4 oz (110 g) cauliflower
3-4 potatoes
2 X 6 inch (15 cm) courgettes, green or golden
2 stalks broccoli
2 teaspoon coriander seeds
2 teaspoon cumin seeds
1 teaspoon mustard seeds
1 teaspoon cardamom seeds
10 whole cloves
3 inch (7.5 cm) piece of cinnamon bark
1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper
1 teaspoon ground turmeric
1 oz (30 g) fresh ginger root
4 cloves of garlic
1 teaspoon sugar
4-5 tablespoons approx. olive oil or clarified butter
2 onions, sliced into rings
3 cups coconut milk
1 teaspoon sea salt
juice of 1 lemon

Garnish
Flat parsley or coriander leaves
2 1/2 oz (70 g) roasted almonds or cashew nuts

Accompaniment
Banana and Yoghurt Raita (see recipe)

First prepare the vegetables.  Peel or scrape the carrots and cut them into pieces 1 1/2 inches (4 cm) long approx.  If the pieces are very chunky cut them into quarters.  Peel and quarter the parsnips, cut out the core and cut into pieces similar to the carrots.  Quarter the mushrooms.  Break the cauliflower and broccoli into florets.  Peel the potatoes and cut into 1/2 inch (1 cm) cubes.

Grind all the whole spices in a spice grinder, add the turmeric and cayenne.  Chop the garlic and ginger and make into a paste either in a pestle and mortar or food processor.
Heat the olive oil or clarified butter in a wide saucepan, add the onion, garlic and ginger, cook over a medium heat until the onion has turned golden brown (6-8 minutes approx.), lower the heat, add the spices and sugar and continue to cook for 3-4 minutes, stirring constantly.  Add the carrots, parsnips, coconut milk, lemon juice and sea salt, increase the heat, cover and bring to the boil and simmer for 10 minutes.  Add the potatoes and cook until tender.

Meanwhile blanch the cauliflower and broccoli in boiling salted water, remove when almost cooked but still crisp, refresh in cold water, drain and keep aside.  Boil the courgettes for 5-6 minutes.

Fry the mushroom quarters in a hot pan in a little olive oil or clarified butter, season with salt and pepper and keep aside.  When the potatoes are cooked add the mushrooms, broccoli, thickly sliced courgettes and cauliflower to the stew, cover, allow to bubble up for a minute, taste and correct seasoning.  It often needs more salt at this point to enhance the flavour.

Garnish with flat parsley or coriander leaves and roasted almonds or cashew nuts.  Serve immediately with Ballymaloe Tomato Relish and Banana and Yoghurt Raita (see recipe).  Poppodums are also a nice accompaniment.

Banana and Yogurt Raita (see Fool Proof Food)
Potato and Parsnip Mash

This mash is particularly delicious with game, a haunch of venison or pheasant it’s also good for rack of lamb or with a steak.

Serves 8 approx.

1¼kg (2½ lbs) parsnips
450g (1 lb) ‘old’ potatoes, e.g. Golden Wonders or Kerrs Pinks
300-350ml (10-12 fl ozs) approx. creamy milk
Salt and freshly ground pepper
55g (2ozs½ stick) approx. butter
2 tablespoons chopped parsley

Scrub the potatoes, put them into a saucepan of cold water, add a good pinch of salt and bring to the boil. When the potatoes are about half cooked, (15 minutes approx. for ‘old’ potatoes), strain off two-thirds of the water, replace the lid on the saucepan, put onto a gentle heat and allow the potatoes to steam until they are cooked.
Peel the parsnips, and cut into chunks, cook in boiled salted water until tender. Drain and mash, keep warm.
When the potatoes are just cooked, put on the milk and bring to the boil.  Pull the peel off the potatoes, mash quickly while they are still warm and beat in enough boiling milk to make a fluffy mash. (If you have a large quantity, put the potatoes in the bowl of a food mixer and beat with the spade.) Then add in the mashed parsnip with the butter. Taste for seasoning.  Serve immediately or reheat later.  Potato and parsnip mash will reheat in a moderate oven 180ºC/350ºF/regulo 4, for 20-25 minutes approx.
Serve in a hot dish with a scattering of parsley on top or if you like piled high with parsnip crisps.

Braised Cavolo Nero
Black Tuscan Kale

This is one of the most robust of the kale family.

Serves 4-6 depending on size

4 heads cavolo nero
sea salt and freshly ground pepper
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
2 garlic cloves, peeled and finely sliced
extra virgin olive oil
bruschetta or polenta

Remove the stems from the cavolo nero leaves.  Blanch in a large pot of boiling well-salted water for 3-5 minutes.  Be careful not to overcook.  Drain well.
Heat the olive oil in a heavy-bottomed saucepan, add the garlic and fry gently.  When it begins to colour add the well-drained cavolo nero, season generously with salt and freshly ground pepper.  Cook for about 5 minutes.  Transfer to a bowl and drizzle generously with extra virgin olive oil.
Serve on its own or as a topping for bruschetta or polenta.

Gratin of Leeks and Ham

Serves 6 – 8

6 – 8 leeks
1 oz (25g) butter
salt and freshly ground black pepper
6 – 8 slices cooked ham
1 pint (600ml) béchamel sauce (see recipe)
4 ozs (110g) grated cheese, eg. Cheddar or a mixture of Gruyere, Parmesan and Cheddar
1 teasp Dijon mustard

Top and tail and wash the leeks. Put an inch of water in a wide pan, add a little butter, season with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Cover and cook on a gentle heat for 6 – 8 minutes depending on size. The tip of a knife should go through easily. Drain the leeks. Wrap each leek in a slice of cooked ham and arrange in a single layer in an oven proof gratin dish. First make the béchamel sauce (see recipe), add the grated cheese and the Dijon mustard, season with salt and freshly ground pepper, taste and correct the seasoning.
Coat with leeks with béchamel sauce, sprinkle the top with and ounce of grated cheddar cheese. Pre heat the oven to 230C 450 f Gas 8. Reheat the gratin for 10 to 20 minutes or until hot and bubbling and golden on top.

Bechamel Sauce

½ pint (300ml) milk
A few slices of carrot
a few slices of onion
a sprig of thyme
a small sprig of parsley
3 black peppercorns
1½ ozs (45g) roux (see below)
salt and freshly ground pepper

This is a marvellous quick way of making Béchamel Sauce if you already have roux made. Put the cold milk into a saucepan with the carrot, onion, peppercorns, thyme and parsley. Bring to the boil, simmer for 4-5 minutes, and remove from the heat and leave to infuse for 10 minutes. Strain out the vegetables, bring the milk back to the boil and thicken with roux to a light coating consistency. Season with salt and freshly ground pepper, taste and correct the seasoning if necessary.

Roux

4 ozs (110g) butter
4 ozs (110g) flour

Melt the butter and cook the flour in it for 2 minutes on a low heat, stirring occasionally. Use as required. Roux can be stored in a cool place and used as required or it can be made up on the spot if preferred. It will keep at least a fortnight in a refrigerator.
Fool Proof Food

Banana and Yogurt Raita

Delicious served with either these meatballs or with the mild madras curry, surprisingly it keeps for days in the fridge and we’ve also enjoyed it as a pudding.

2 heaped tablesp. (2 ozs 55g approx.) raisins or sultanas
1 oz (30g) blanched slivered almonds
7 fl ozs (200ml) best quality natural yogurt
3½ fl ozs (90ml/) cream or 3½ fl ozs (90ml) sour cream
1 tablesp pure Irish honey
3 firm ripe bananas
pinch of salt
4-6 cardamom pods

Pour boiling water over the raisins or sultanas, leave for 10 minutes, toast the almonds. Mix the yogurt with the cream, add the honey, taste and add more if needed. Add the raisins and almonds, remove the seeds from the cardamom pods, crush in a pestle and mortar, slice the banana, season with a pinch of salt and add to the yogurt. Turn into a serving bowl and chill for an hour if possible.
Serve with curries and spicy dishes.

Hot Tips

Wild Garlic

Wild Garlic is coming into season so gather this delicious wild herb from shady places along the banks of streams and in undisturbed mossy woodland. There are two types of wild garlic, Allium ursinum, and Allium triquetrum, the kind of wild garlic known as snowbells, which look like white bluebells and usually grow along the sides of country lanes.
Wild garlic lasts a few days when gathered into a bouquet and placed in water.  It’s easily over-used, so be sparse. Wild garlic butter melts deliciously over a steak or a spring lamb chop. The chopped leaves are delicious in broths and pasta sauces.

Barry’s Nurseries

Transform your lawn into a productive vegetable garden. Learn how to grow your own vegetables on a four week evening course starting Wednesday 1st April 7pm – 9pm. Demonstration and hands on; sowing planting and soil preparation. Barry’s Nurseries, Inch, Killeagh – Tel: +353 86 814 1133
Thrifty Tip

To avoid leftovers, try not to cook too much. Freeze or refrigerate any leftovers to use at a later meal, rather than dumping. Feed meat scraps to pets: compost vegetable scraps in a rodent proof compost system; put suitable leftovers such as bread, crackers etc on the bird table or keep a few hens.

India – Spice up Your Life

India keeps calling me back. Few places on earth offer the diversity of travel experiences that this intriguing country delivers – a lifetime is not long enough to know it. In the space of less than an hour one can witness hand pulled rickshaws, camel carts and ceremonial elephants, oxen ploughing the fields with bells tinkling from their gaily painted horns, side by side with brand new tractors. All manner of enterprise and activity, roadside barbers lather their customer’s chins, cross legged tailors, chapatti makers, a myriad of food stalls, sweetmeat makers, spice wallahs, blacksmiths sharpening sickles to harvest the mustard crop – all alongside glitzy malls. Nowadays, the poorest stallholder is likely to have a mobile phone. Even though economic growth has slowed considerably, much is changing.
Cows nonchalantly roam the streets in the certainty that no one will harm them
Tuc tucs, cars, cycle rickshaws, goods carriers (as lorries are called), all slow down to avoid them. Cows are sacred and revered. In the country side women in beautiful saris still work on the roads and in the brickworks, carrying heavy loads on their heads with seemingly effortless ease. For casual observers this is extraordinary but there is an order and a logic that we simply don’t understand and are best to accept as part of the experience of India. Everywhere one goes, people have a ready smile.
This time we spent a few days in Ponticherry a French Colonial town in South East India. Like Chowpatty Beach in Mumbai, it really comes to life in the early evening. A wander along the promenade before sunset is an unforgettable experience. Food stalls selling sand roasted nuts – pani puri, bell puri, samosas, ice-cream…  Kids pedalling candy floss, bubbles pipes, balloons, squeaky toys and several brass bands belting out Indian rhythms alongside the huge statue of Ghandi on the march.
I had several delicious meals, in a restaurant called Sangan, the chefs kindly shared this recipe for their homemade kiwi ice cream with me.

Rajastan in the North West is possibly the most colourful part of India. This time we avoided the tourist magnets Jodhpur and Jaipur – beautiful as they are – and ventured out into the wild and beautiful country side to stay in a couple of the Rajput families houses. Many of these noble families have restored their castles and forts in recent years to entice the growing number of tourists. We loved Castle Bijaipur about 40 kilometres from Chittorgarh. www.castlebijaipur.com The family still live there and warmly welcome the guests. The food cooked by family retainers was quite unlike the standard hotel food; secret recipes handed down through the generations. For those who like to ride there were wonderful Marwari horses and a tented camp overlooking Pangarh Fort and Lotus Lake to relax in.
Closer to Nimaj we found another place I long to return to – called Chhattar Sagar, http://www.mahoutuk.com/chhatra.htm three grandsons of Thakur Chhatra Singh a powerful nobleman run superb tented accommodation overlooking the dam which was built in 1890 to create a large water reservoir. The vision and generosity of their great grandfather changed the dry scrub into prime agricultural land, thus providing a livelihood for the local farmers who had hitherto struggled to survive on the parched desert.
It’s also a bird lover’s paradise – over 200 birds have been recorded many in significant numbers – antelopes and blue bull, amble through the savannah below the tents. The family organise wonderful tours of the local village and farms and the food was superb, I looked forward to every meal and when I expressed an interest in learning how some of the dishes were cooked, Harsh’s wife, dressed in a beautiful embroidered sari gave me and several other guests cooking classes before dinner. The tamarind aubergine and tomato chutney recipes are from Chhattra Sagar.

Finally we returned to Udaipur to possibly my favourite hotel in the world, the Lake Palace – which was built in 1743 by Maharana Jagat Singh and was the original summer retreat of the Maharanas – is in the centre of Lake Pichola. One gets there by boat and feels like a princess when greeted by a bearer carrying a parasol to provide shade from the midday sun. Fresh limeade, marigold garlands and the perfume of jasmine scent the air. In the morning and at sunset a resident flautist plays haunting Indian music on the flute. It’s a gentle magical place. Although breakfast is delicious overall the food is not great and rarely reflects the season or the produce of the local region. Nevertheless I love it there and Udaipur offers many other restaurant options. In the old town, I chanced upon a little cooking school run by Sushma Soni and spent a very informative few hours learning more about Indian food. Sushma cooked some easy to replicate dishes.
Paneer

2 litres milk
1 teaspn vinegar or lemon juice
150 – 200g (5 – 7 oz)

Boil 2 litres of milk when first boil comes, add 1 teaspoon vinegar or lemon juice and 150 – 200g (5 – 7oz) of yoghurt and stir it well, it will curdle almost immediately. Pour the mixture through a muslin lined strainer, until all the water drains out, and then put a weight over and leave it for 2 hours.

In India they use whey to make chapati dough or boil lentils for dhal

Punjabi Butter Paneer Masala

Serves 3 – 6 depending on how many dishes are served.

50g (2 oz) butter
200g (7oz) paneer
4 medium onions chopped
1 teasp chopped green chilli
½ teasp grated ginger
4 – 6 large tomatoes, peeled and pureed
6 almonds 6 cashew nuts (grind with coconut powder)
2 tablsp desiccated coconut
2 cups milk
½ teasp turmeric powder
½ teasp red chilli powder
½ teasp garam masala
salt according to taste
2 tablsp double cream

Cut the paneer into 1 inch cubes, grind chopped ginger, onions and green chilli together and fry it with butter in a kadhi (wok) until light brown, add all the spices, turmeric powder, red chilli powder, garam masala, salt according to taste.
Cook for 3 -4 minutes. Add the tomato puree, cook for a further 5 minutes, now add the double cream and crushed nuts.  Put the almonds, cashews and coconut into the grinder and puree, roast on medium heat until the butter and masala separates approximately 3 – 4 minutes. Now add the paneer pieces and add approximately two small cups of milk, cover for 5 minutes, add a pinch of garam masala and dried fenugreek leaves (methi).
Imli Baingan (Tamarind Aubergine)

Serves 6 – 8

1kg (2 ¼ lb) small aubergines cut in half, cut larger aubergines into 1 ½ inch chunks deep fried
4 onions finely chopped
5 -6 cloves garlic chopped
3 tbsp oil
3 – 5 whole red chillies
3 tbsp tamarind paste
2 tbsp brown sugar
1 tsp red chilli powder
salt (to taste)

Heat the oil; add whole red chillies immediately followed by the onions. Fry over a medium heat until soft, add the garlic – careful it doesn’t burn. Add the tamarind paste, brown sugar, red chilli powder and salt. Stir and cook for a minute and then add the fried aubergine, toss gently and simmer for 4 or 5 minutes. Taste to correct seasoning. Serve hot.

Tomato Chutney

Serves 6 approximately as an accompaniment to curries or roast meats.

12 large ripe tomatoes chopped
2 green chillies deseeded and cut into long pieces
4 – 6 cloves of garlic roughly chopped
1 ½ teasp grated ginger
¼ teasp black mustard seeds
¼ teasp kiraita (nigella seeds)
¼ teasp fennel seeds
3 tabsp oil
2 teasp sugar
1 teasp red chilli powder
½ teasp salt

Heat the oil in a wok. Add the black mustard seeds, kiraita and fennel seeds, stir and fry for a few seconds then add the chopped garlic. Stir once or twice more and add the tomatoes. On a high heat add the ginger paste and the red chilli powder, cook for 8 to 10 minutes or until the chutney thickens and reduces, add the sugar and cook until little droplets of oil rise to the top. Finally add the salt and the green chillies, stir, taste and correct the seasoning if necessary and serve hot.
Chapatis

Makes about 16

Chapatis in varying sizes and thickness are eaten all over North India. If you cannot find chapati flour use sieved wholemeal. Salt is optional.
The dough should be quite soft.  The amount of water you need will vary with the type of flour and the general humidity in the air.  Use extra flour to roll out easily.
In India Chapatis are traditionally cooked on a tava, a slightly concave, circular, cast iron plate, which is heated slowly before the first chapatti is slapped on to it.  This preheating prevents the chapatti from becoming hard and brittle.  Use a heavy cast iron pan if you haven’t got a tava.

250g (9oz) sieved chapati flour or wholemeal (weigh after sieving)
170ml (6oz) water
¼ teaspoon salt, optional

Put the sieved flour in a bowl. Add the water, slowly mixing as you do so, to form a soft dough.  Knead the dough for 5-6 minutes until smooth.  Put the dough in a bowl.  Cover with cling film and leave to rest for half an hour.
If you are fortunate enough to have an Indian tava, slowly heat over a medium-low flame, alternatively use a cast iron frying pan.  When it is very hot, turn the heat to low.
Knead the dough again and form into a roll, divide in roughly 16 parts.  It should be fairly sticky, so use a little flour when handling it.
Flour your work surface, take one part of dough and roll into a ball. Press down on the ball to flatten. Roll out into a 14cm (5 ½ inch) round.  Pat off the excess of flour and then slap it on to the hot tava or frying pan.  Let it cook on low heat for about a minute.  Turn the chapati over (use your hands or a pair of tongs). Cook for about 30 seconds on the second side. Take the pan off the stove and put the chapatti directly on top of the low flame.  It should puff up in seconds. This takes courage but be brave its worth it, they deflate again in a few seconds.

Yellow Dhal Mewari Dahl Tadka

Serves 4 – 6

225g (8oz) any kind of lentil, yellow, green or white (or beans) soaked in hot water, (water to cover add ½ litre of water), for at least 1 hour

2 finely chopped onions
4 cloves garlic chopped
¼ teasp turmeric powder
¼ teasp red chilli powder
salt according to taste
¼ teasp garam masala (hot spices)
4 – 6 medium sized tomatoes chopped
½  litre (17fl oz) milk
1 ½ teasp chopped ginger or paste

Rinse the dhal 2 or 3 times

Boil the soaked lentils dhal with milk in a pressure cooker for 20 – 25 minutes or about an hour in an ordinary pan until lentils are soft. If you want it creamy and rich use milk, otherwise you use water.
Melt 3 – 4 tbls sunflower oil or ghee in a heavy saucepan, add the onions and cook on a medium heat until pale golden brown. Add the grated ginger and garlic, add spices and cook until the masala and the ghee separates 4 -5 minutes. Add the chopped tomatoes and boil again. Now add the dhal, bring back to the boil and sprinkle some fresh coriander and a pinch of garam masala. It should be quite liquid. Cover for 2 – 3 minutes and then serve.
Garlic and ginger paste is an essential basic in Indian cooking. The garlic is usually ground first in an oval shaped pestle and mortar and then the ginger is added, then both are ground to a paste together. This mixture will last for 2 – 3 days in a fridge.
You can use this sauce for macaroni, spaghetti or for chickpeas, kidney beans, lentils, vegetables or mutton.

Aloo Gobi (Potato with Cauliflower)

(No onions no garlic)
1 flower of cauliflower with little tiny florets (1/2 kg)
4 large or 4 medium size potatoes, diced ½ inch
4 tabsp cooking oil
1/3 teasp fennel seeds
¼ teasp mustard seeds
10-15 seeds of fenugreek
handful of fresh or frozen peas
¼ teasp garam masala
½ – 2 teasp chopped green chilli
2 tomatoes finely chopped
½ teasp chopped ginger
salt according to taste

Heat the oil in a pan, add all seeds when they start to pop after about a minute add the turmeric, potatoes, cauliflower, peas, garam masla and mix well. Cover for 10 minutes on a medium heat until they are soft, stir after 8 to 10 minutes then add the chopped tomatoes, ginger, chopped green chilli. Mix well, cover and leave for a few minutes. Garnish with freshly chopped coriander and serve hot.

Kiwi Fruit Ice Cream from Satsanga Restaurant in Ponticherry

Makes 8 – 10

1kg (2 ¼ lb) kiwi fruit – about 10
1/3 of 2kg (675g) icing sugar
1 litre double cream
3 – 4 kiwi fruit (garnish)
fresh mint leaves

Peel the kiwi fruit thinly and cut into four, puree the fruit in a blender, chill in a fridge.
Meanwhile whisk the cream stiffly, add the icing sugar and mix well. Fold evenly into the chilled kiwi puree and turn into an ice cream maker and churn until frozen. Alternatively pour into a plastic box cover and freeze.
Serve on chilled plates alone or with a wedge or two of kiwi and some fresh mint leaves.

Fool Proof Food

Sweet Lassi

50ml (2fl oz) best quality natural yoghurt
175ml (6fl oz) ice and water
1/2- 1 tabsp caster sugar
1/8–1/4 teasp rose water or kewra
rose petals, optional
Whizz all the ingredients including the ice in a blender. Pour into chilled glasses and serve immediately.  Scatter with rose petals.

Hot Tips

Steak sandwiches for lunch at Mahon Point Farmers Market

Gar Granville from Cobh serves steak sandwiches from his stall at Mahon Point Farmers Market every Thursday. These are truly delicious – beef that has been hung for four weeks, slathered with freshly picked horseradish sauce and homemade mayonnaise served on an Ockham bap, hot out of the oven from the bakery in Ballycotton that morning for €6:50 www.mahonpointfarmersmarket.com

Vegetable Growing Workshop

Two hour hands on workshop on growing vegetables will be held every Saturday afternoon at 2:00pm, beginning 10th March. Course content; soil preparation, sowing, planting – potatoes, cabbage, cauliflower, carrots, parsnips, peas and beans. Cost €25.00 per week. Barrie’s Nurseries +353 86 814 1133 www.barrysgardencentre.ie
Sarah Raven comes to Ireland

Sarah Raven, www.sarahraven.com well known writer, cook, broadcaster and teacher, is the expert on all things to grow, cut and eat from your garden. She will be teaching two one day gardening classes in April at the Ballymaloe Cookery School. ‘The Cutting Garden’ Thursday 16th April 9:30am to 5:00pm ‘Year Round Vegetables’, Friday 17th April 9:30am to 5:00pm. Booking essential 021 4646 785.

Burger Culture

In this gloomy economic climate as one multinational after another announces staggering losses, guess what company has not merely survived but is reporting a staggering increase in business – McDonald’s. The fast food chain started in 1966 by Ronald McDonald has announced plans to open even more outlets this year.

Despite the lambasting McDonalds have had in recent years with best selling books like Fast Food Nation and films like Supersize me, McDonalds has taken stock, picked itself up, dusted itself down and not only survived but prevailed in a way that is the envy not only of other restaurants but many food chains not least Starbucks and Dunkin Donuts whose business it is now affecting with it’s new McCafes express coffee drinks.
The strategic management team at McDonalds heeded well to the criticism, they listened to and observed their customers, they introduced salads, wraps, carefully tweaked the menu but never lost sight of their core product. In this economical crisis they promote their menu outside featuring low cost food. Inside they promote their happy meal combos. Why? Because the French fries and soft drinks make more profit – they are the high margin items. The same basic business principal operates in a supermarket. Low margin commodity items such as milk are far from the entrance where the high margin more profitable sweeties are piled high close to the cash register. Much to annoyance of parents with young children with lots of pester power. McDonalds must be admired for their achievement but with every success comes responsibility. Now that so many are depending on McDonald’s to feel their families in these desperate times, the meal must be truly formulated to nourish as well as fill.
McDonalds doesn’t pretend to be haute cuisine. The public are well and truly voting with their feet. The McDonalds formula of consistency and value is a resounding success. The four factors for their success are speed, accuracy of order system, cleanliness and temperature. Most people like their food hot not lukewarm but too hot either.
Taste is not necessarily a big issue, McDonalds customers have a pretty broad range of acceptability galling though it may be for all the whole foodies.
The concept is brilliant and its performance during these challenging economic times is truly proof of the pudding.

If you like to make great burgers and chips at home here’s how.

Buying Mince

Be really fussy – buy fresh meat that has been minced on the day. If mince is a day or two old it will taste sour and acrid. It doesn’t have to be round steak, flap or flank are fine. It sounds politically incorrect but for real flavour and succulence, mince meat should contain 20 to 25% fat.
Basic Hamburgers

The hamburger, the universal fast food, immortalized by the Americans and enjoyed by the rich and famous, the down and outs and all the rest of the world as well.
It can be a feast or a travesty simply a burger in a bun or an elaborate creation with lots of sauces and pickles.
The secret of really good hamburgers is the quality of the mince, it doesn’t need to be an expensive cut but it is essential to use the beef on the day it is minced. A very small percentage of fat in the mince will make the hamburgers sweet and juicy.

Serves 4-6

1/2 oz (15g) butter
3 ozs (75g) onion, chopped (optional)
1 lb (450g) freshly minced beef – flank, chump or shin would be perfect
1/2 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves
1 teaspoon finely chopped parsley
salt and freshly ground pepper
pork caul fat, optional
extra virgin olive oil

burger buns

Melt the butter in a heavy bottomed saucepan, toss in the chopped onion, cover and sweat until soft but not coloured, allow to get cold. Meanwhile, mix the mince, add the herbs. Season with salt and freshly ground pepper, add the cold onions. Mix well. Fry off a tiny bit on the pan to check the seasoning, correct if necessary.  Then shape into hamburgers, 4-6 depending on the size you require. Wrap each one in caul fat if using.  Cook to your taste in a little oil on a grill pan or medium-hot pan or, turning once. I prefer to use a grill pan because I love the way it sears the burgers.

Watch Point:
If the hamburgers are to be wrapped in caul fat, wrap loosely to allow for contraction during cooking.
If the hamburgers are being cooked in batches make sure to wash and dry the pan between batches.

Useful Tip

Use good salt, Maldon or plain cooking salt and freshly ground pepper.
A little finely chopped onion is a delicious addition but it’s best to sweat it in a little butter or olive oil first otherwise raw onion will remain rawish even when the rest of the burger is cooked.
Hamburgers with Mushroom a la Crème and Crispy Bacon

Several people are doing really good bacon these nowadays. Gubbeen (028) 28231 and Caherbeg (023) 48474 have a cult following, but you may not be so familiar with Caroline Rigney from Curragh Chase near Limerick (061) 393988 and Noreen and Martin Conroy from Woodside Farm (087) 2767206 from East Cork who sell from the Farmers Market in Midleton.

Serves 6

6 homemade burgers (see recipe)
Mushroom a la Crème, (see recipe)
6 really good streaky rashers
freshly chopped parsley

Sizzling chips
Green salad and cherry tomatoes

burger buns

Cook the burgers to your taste. Meanwhile fry or grill the rashers until crisp and golden, then cut each one in half.   Heat the mushroom a la Crème.

To Serve
Put a grilled bun on each plate, spoon 2 – 3 tablespoons of Mushroom a la Creme over each.  Top each hamburger with 2 pieces of crispy bacon and a sprinkling of freshly chopped parsley.

Serve with some sizzling chips and a green salad and perhaps a few cherry tomatoes.
Mushroom a la Crème

Serves 4

1/2-1 oz (15-25g) butter
3 ozs (75g) onion, finely chopped
1/2 lb (225g) mushrooms, sliced
4fl ozs (100ml) cream
freshly chopped parsley
1/2 tablespoon freshly chopped chives (optional)
a squeeze of lemon juice
salt and freshly ground pepper
roux

Melt the butter in a heavy saucepan until it foams.  Add the chopped onions, cover and sweat on a gentle heat for 5-10 minutes or until quite soft but not coloured.  Meanwhile cook the sliced mushrooms in a little butter, in a hot frying pan in batches if necessary.  Season each batch with salt, freshly ground pepper and a tiny squeeze of lemon juice.  Add the mushrooms to the onions in the saucepan, then add the cream and allow to bubble for a few minutes.  Thicken with a little roux to a light coating consistency.  Taste and correct the seasoning, and add parsley and chives if used.

Note: Mushroom a la crème may be served as a vegetable, or as a filling for vol au vents, bouchees or pancakes or as a sauce for pasta.  It may be used as an enrichment for casseroles and stews or, by adding a little more cream or stock, may be served as a sauce with beef, lamb, chicken or veal.  A crushed clove of garlic may be added while the onions are sweating.

Mushroom a la Crème keeps well in the fridge for 4-5 days.

Debbie Shaw’s Asian Chilli Chicken Burgers with Fresh Coriander

This is a delicious and healthy alternative to beef burgers, full of fresh aromatic Asian flavours.

Makes: 4 medium sized bugers.

400g (14oz) minced free-range organic chicken (thigh, leg, breast meat or a mixture)
50g (2oz) minced pork belly
50g (2oz) red onion, finely chopped
2 cloves of garlic, crushed
½ to 1 hot red chilli, deseeded and finely chopped (optional)
1 tblsp fresh lime juice
2 tblsp chopped fresh coriander (substitute basil if you prefer)
1 dessertspoon oyster sauce
1 dessertspoon soya sauce
1 dessertspoon of fish sauce
1 dessertspoon toasted sesame seed oil
1 tspn salt
1 small free range egg

Sweet Chilli Yoghurt dip. (See Fool Proof Food)

Ask your butcher to mince some chicken for you. Alternatively finely chop 400g (14oz) of de-boned and skinned chicken breast/thighs/legs by hand or pulse in a food processor (leaving some texture) Add the minced pork, onion, garlic, ginger, chilli, lime juice, coriander, oyster sauce, soya sauce, sesame oil, fish sauce, beaten egg and salt. Mix well, shape into flattish burgers and chill for 1-2 hours to firm up. If using immediately, use a small whisked egg to bind the ingredients. Heat a grill pan, when smoking hot add a little extra virgin olive oil or vegetable oil and brown the burger for 3 minutes on each side, then reduce the heat and cook the burger through, turning frequently. Serve with crispy lettuce, slices of vine ripened tomato and sweet chilli yoghurt dip in a lightly toasted ciabatta roll or bagel.
Rory O’Connell’s Spicy Lamb Burgers with Yoghurt, Mint Raita and Pitta Bread

Serve in warm pitta bread or mini burger buns, with salad leaves, tomato salad and fresh mint and yoghurt dressing.

Makes about 12

4 tablespoons fresh coriander chopped
2 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
175g (6oz) onions, peeled and finely chopped
1 small red chilli, deseeded and finely chopped
1 kg (2¼ lb) minced lamb
2 teaspoon freshly ground cumin
1 teaspoon freshly ground turmeric
1 teaspoon freshly ground coriander
1 free-range egg, beaten
salt and freshly ground pepper

12 pita bread

Heat the olive oil in a pan on a medium heat. Cook the onion and chilli until soft and golden. Allow to cool a little.

Mix all the ingredients in a large bowl, season well with salt and freshly ground pepper. Stir until thoroughly mixed. Divide the mixture into burgers, shaping them as you wish; but it should make about 12.

Cook on a frying pan in a little extra virgin olive oil or on a baking sheet under a hot grill for 3-4 mins on each side or on a barbeque.

Serve each spicy lamb burger in a warm pitta with some fresh salad leaves, tomato salad and cucumber and mint raita.

Hamburgers with Blue Cheese, Sweet Cucumber Salad and Tomato Relish

Serves 4-6

Basic burgers (see recipe)
Little Irish Blue Cheese, eg. Cashel Blue or Chetwynd

Sweet Cucumber Salad
4 ozs (110g) approx. cucumber, thinly sliced
1 dessertspoon sugar
a good pinch of salt
1 1/3 fl ozs (31.5 ml) white wine vinegar

To Serve
Ballymaloe Country Relish* or a good homemade tomato chutney
Green salad
Freshly cooked chips (optional)
Marigold petals (Calendula Officinalis)

4-6 burger buns

First make the cucumber salad. Put the sliced cucumber into a bowl add the sugar, salt and wine vinegar and mix well. Place in a tightly covered container in the refrigerator and leave for at least 2 hours.

Meanwhile make the hamburger mixture. When shaping the hamburgers put a blob of Blue cheese into the centre of each one and seal well.  Cook the burgers to your taste.

To Serve: Split and chargrill the buns, put the base on a warm plate, put a freshly cooked blue cheese burger on top, arrange some cucumber salad on top of the burger and put a spoonful of Ballymaloe Country Relish on the side. Some sizzling chips and a little tossed green salad would also be delicious. If you happen to have a few common marigold petals sprinkle them over the top of the salad for extra posh!

* Ballymaloe Country Relish is available in shops countrywide, if unavailable in your area, contact: Yasmin Hyde, Glanmire, Co Cork, phone: (021) 4354810.
Fool Proof Food

Sweet Chilli Yoghurt Dip

Mix the following ingredients together and chill

2 tblspns Thai sweet chilli sauce
2 tblspns of organic natural yoghurt
4 tblspns homemade or bought mayonnaise
2 crushed cloves of garlic
1 tblspn chopped fresh coriander (substitute basil if you prefer)

Hot Tips

Practical Allotment Gardening Course

Ightermurragh Garden Allotments Ladysbridge, East Cork. Five week course starting
Saturday 7th March, 2009 at 11am. Planning plot, preparation of seed bed, planting early crops, sowing and pruning of fruit bushes. Grow your own fruit and vegetables, you don’t need a garden, precultivated ready to sow plots will be provided. €75.00 for five week course with reduced rates for plot holders.

Course taught by:  Michael Brenock B.Agric (Hort) and Donal Murphy B.Agric and Liam Murphy (Owner) Telephone Liam 021-4667330   Mob 086 3003810
Booking essential.

Spring Lamb at the Nautilis

The Nautilis Restaurant at Inn by the Harbour in Ballycotton have reopened after a winter break. Try their delicious new Moroccan Lamb dish made with locally sourced spring lamb. Booking essential (021) 4646 768.
Reducing your Carbon Footprint

Feidhlim Harty sets out some straightforward and very easy ways to reduce your rubbish by a surprising amount – saving you money and helping the planet with his new book ‘Get Rid of Your Bin and Save Money’
Published by Mercier Press ISBN no 978-185635-626-8
Thrifty Tip

Buy a whole chicken rather than chicken pieces. Then you can use the carcass for stock to make delicious soups and stews. Sometimes you can buy bags of giblets (necks, hearts and gizzards) very cheaply. They add greatly to the flavour of the stock. The cooked gizzards are delicious tossed in hot olive oil, served on tossed salad leaves with a few croutons, one of my favourite starter salads.

Oats

What is it about oats that makes them such a wonder food, if I don’t have my bowl of porridge for breakfast in winter or fruit muesli in Summer – I seem to get a craving for something snacky and sweet around 11:30am in the morning. All my grandchildren love porridge, Joshua and Lucca eat it with peanut butter, sounds like an odd combination but they polish off a big bowl of it every morning. The girls prefer brown sugar and creamy milk.
 

At the Mahon Point Farmers Market people queue for Arun Kapil’s porridge with spiced apricots and prunes on top. Others favour honey and cream – I am a big fan of pinhead oat meal. It cooks slowly overnight in the bottom of the Aga. Guests at Ballymaloe House go crazy for a bowl of Macroom Oatmeal which Donal Creegan stone grinds in the time honoured way in the last stone grinding mill in Ireland -wonderful stuff. Also wonderful and a more widely available product is Flahavans oatmeal from Kilmacthomas in Co Waterford
.
This exemplary family run business now in its sixth generation has been operating for over 200 years. Flavahans burn the by-product of the oat to power the boiler which generates steam for the cooking process. Electricity is also generated from the original mill stream alongside the mill on the River Mahon. The company also funds the recovery and recycling of packaging waste.
 

Flahavans have won several awards including the 2008 SIAL D’or, international food competition, and in 2007 the Euro Toque award and the Bord Bia Food and Drink Industry award for their quick oats range. They also won an environmental award for their organic packaging range. 
 

The Flahavan family have had a strong environmental conscience long before it became fashionable to be green. They source as much of their raw material as possible locally in Ireland but John Flahavan is always interested to hear from more Irish farmers who would like to grow oats for Flahavan’s mill. At present the demand outstrips the supply and they have to supplement with imported Polish oats but would far prefer to use all home grown grains.
 

www.flahavans.com
 

Blackberry, Strawberry, Raspberry or Apple Muesli
 

Serves 4
4 ozs (110g) fresh or frozen strawberries, raspberries, loganberries or grated dessert apple (preferably Worcester Permain or Cox’s Orange Pippin)
3 heaped tablespoons rolled oatmeal (Flahavans Oats)
6 tablespoons water
1 teaspoon approx. honey
 

Soak the oatmeal in the water for 10 or 15 minutes. Meanwhile, mash the strawberries roughly with a fork and mix with the oatmeal. Sweeten to taste with honey, a scant teaspoon is usually enough but it depends on how sweet the strawberries are.
Serve with cream and soft brown sugar.
 

This fruit muesli is served for breakfast right through the year at Ballymaloe, the fruit varies with the season.
 Blackberry and Apple Muesli
A few blackberries are delicious added to the apple muesli in Autumn.
 

Pinhead Oatmeal Porridge

Pinhead oatmeal or steel cut oats is quite simply a feast and a perfect GI breakfast. We eat it with rich creamy organic milk from our Jersey cows and soft brown sugar – sublime.

 Serves 8
 

4oz dried apricots
4oz prunes
1 tablespoon honey
310g (11oz) pinhead oatmeal
950ml (32fl oz) water
1/2 teaspoon salt
 

The night before, soak the oatmeal in 225ml (8fl oz) cold water. Soak the dried fruit in cold water over night. Next day put into a saucepan, add the honey, cinnamon, cloves and cook until plump. Serve a generous spoonful off the top of the porridge.
 

On the day, bring 725ml (24fl oz) water to the boil and add to the oatmeal. Put on a low heat and stir until the water comes to the boil.  Cover and simmer for 15-20 minutes, stirring occasionally. Stir in the salt. Cover again and leave aside overnight, the oatmeal will absorb all the water.
 

Next day, reheat adding a little more water if necessary; serve with cream or rich milk and soft brown sugar.
 

Good things to serve with porridge. Dark brown sugar and cream. Apple and sweet geranium compote (see recipe)
 

Compote of Blackberry and Apples with Sweet Geranium Leaves

A delicious Autumn dessert, or use frozen blackberries at this time of the year.
 

Serves 3 approx.
 

225g (8 ozs) sugar
450ml (16fl ozs) water
4 large dessert apples eg. Worcester Permain or Coxes Orange Pippen
275g (10 ozs) blackberries, fresh or frozen
8 large sweet geranium leaves (Pelagonium Graveolens)
 

Put the sugar, cold water and sweet geranium leaves into a saucepan, bring to the boil for 1-2 minutes. Peel the apples thinly with a peeler, keeping a good round shape. Quarter them, remove the core and trim the ends. Cut into segments 5mm (1/4inch) thick. Add to the syrup. Poach until translucent but not broken. Cover with a paper lid and lid of the saucepan.
 

Just 3-5 minutes before they have finished cooking, add the blackberries, simmer together so that they are both cooked at once.
 

Serve chilled, with little shortbread biscuits.
 

Compote of Cranberry and Apple
Substitute 1 cup of cranberries for blackberries in the above recipe.
 Flapjacks
 

One of the quickest, easiest and most nutritious of all biscuits to make. They keep very well in a tin.  Children love to munch them with a banana. Don’t compromise – use butter, because the flavour is immeasurably better.  The crunchy crumbs are delicious sprinkled over cold apple purée.  Dip one corner into melted chocolate for a treat.
 

Makes 24-32
 

12 ozs (340g) butter
1 tablespoon golden syrup
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
8 ozs (225g) castor sugar
1 lb (450g) rolled oatmeal (porridge oats)
 

Swiss roll tin, 10 inches (25.5cm) x 15 inches (38cm)
 

Preheat the oven to180ºC/350ºF/Gas Mark 4.
 

Melt the butter in a deep saucepan; add the golden syrup and pure vanilla extract. Remove from the heat. Stir in the castor sugar and oatmeal and mix well. Spread evenly in a large Swiss roll tin. Bake in a preheated until golden and slightly caramelised – about 30 minutes. Cut into 24-32 squares while still warm.
 

Note
Make half the recipe if a 9 inch (23cm) x 13 inch (33cm) Swiss roll thin is used.
 Granola
 

A toasted grain cereal.
 Serves 20
 

12 ozs (350g) honey
8 fl ozs (225g) oil eg. sunflower or arachide
 1 lb 1 oz (370g) oat flakes
7 ozs (200g) barley flakes
7 ozs (200g) wheat flakes
3 1/2 ozs (100g) rye flakes
 

5 ozs (150g) seedless raisins or sultanas
5 ozs (150g) peanuts/hazelnuts, or cashew nuts split and roasted
2 3/4 ozs (70g) wheatgerm and /or millet flakes
2 ozs (50g) chopped apricots, 1/2 cup chopped dates etc. are nice too
Toasted sunflower or pumpkin seeds are also a delicious addition
 Mix oil and honey together in a saucepan, heat just enough to melt the honey.  Mix well into the mixed flakes. Spread thinly on two baking sheets.
 

Bake in a moderate oven 180°C/350°F/regulo 4, for 20-30 minutes, turning frequently, making sure the edges don’t burn. It should be just golden and toasted, not roasted!
 Allow to get cold.  Mix in the raisins or sultanas, roasted nuts, toasted seeds, chopped dates, apricots and wheatgerm.  Store in a screw top jar or a plastic box, keeps for 1-2 weeks.
 

Serve with sliced banana and yoghurt.
 

Fool Proof Food
 To follow your bowl of yummy porridge for breakfast, try these delicious spicy eggs.
 

Mexican Scrambled eggs – Huevos a la Mexicana
 8 large free range organic eggs
1 ½ oz (45g) butter
1 small onion, finely chopped
1-3 chillies, deseeded and finely chopped (the amount depends on how much excitement you would like in your life!)
1 very ripe tomato, chopped
½ tspn salt
 

Serves 4
Melt the butter in a heavy-bottomed saucepan over a medium heat, cook the onion and chillies until the onion is soft but not coloured, add the tomato and cook gently for a few more minutes.
Meanwhile, whisk the eggs and salt well; add them to the saucepan and scramble, stirring all the time until cooked to your taste. Serve immediately on warm plates.
 Thrifty Tip
 

Get the family involved in the cooking, maybe plan the weeks menus with everyone’s input. Allocate a budget per meal and chefs specials. This could be an eye opener to family members who think money grows on trees and will have the knock on effect of teaching budgeting skills.
 Hot Tips
 

Grow your own Vegetables
 Experienced growers Caroline Robinson and Rupert Hugh-Jones will talk about starting a garden, preparing the soil, making compost, sowing seeds, caring for plants and getting the most from polytunnels
 

Crawford Art Gallery Café Thursday 26th February at 7.30pm, entrance €6.00 including tea or coffee.
 

Organic Vegetables and Fruit Growing Course
 Practical FETAC certificated course on growing and producing organic vegetables and fruit. Beginning Tuesday 24 February and running Tuesdays fortnightly for 10 days 10.00am – 5.00pm. Cost:   €350 for 10 days (includes lunch). Nano Nagle Centre, Ballygriffin, Mallow.
Course Tutor:  Jason Horner, experienced grower from Co Clare. Jason has been selling his own organic produce and eggs at a Farmer’s Market for the last 16 years.
The course is suitable for people with a view to growing on a commercial basis.
Places are limited so please book early. Contact Nano Nagle Centre:  022 26411
 

Living Willow Tunnel
 Create A Living Willow Tunnel, Nano Nagle Centre, Saturday, March 7th – 10.00am – 4.00pm €75 (includes lunch, tea, coffee and materials (willow available to bring home )
 

You will learn how to build a basic living structure with willow sculptress, Angela Nolan and in the process find out everything you ever wanted to know about willow:  growing, weaving and maintenance. Contact Nano Nagle Centre:  022 26411
 


 

The Way to a Man’s Heart

Romantic sounding menus, lots of red roses, twinkling candles, a bottle of fizz – hotels and restaurants are using all their ingenuity to tempt us to throw caution to the wind, forget the blues and celebrate. 

My students laugh when I tell them to get out there and find a fine strong farmer with a parcel of land, learn how to keep a few chickens, grow a few vegetables and cook a delicious dinner to tempt him down off his tractor. 

Recessions can come and go but at least we won’t go hungry if we have basic life skills.  Doesn’t matter how much of a whizz kid you are on the computer or how much you impress your colleagues in the work place if you can’t spontaneously whip up pasta or a pot of bubbling stew. It doesn’t matter how gorgeous you are, the attraction soon wears thin particularly in recessionary times.  If you know the basics there’s no end to the delights you can whip up in a short time.  On the other hand if terms like sweating, creaming and baking blind are ‘double Dutch’ to you it might be time to consider setting some time aside to take a few cooking lessons.  There are many to choose from all over the country. 

The newest cookery school in Dungarvan, Co. Waterford is owned by chef Paul Flynn of the “Tannery Restaurant” fame.  Terrific reports, great facility and if you’d both like to cook together why not stay the night in Paul and Maria’s townhouse – www.tannery.ie.

Award winning chef Rory O’Connell offers highly recommended private and bespoke cookery classes at his 18th century farmhouse in East Cork www.rgoconnell.com
086 8516917

Over in West Cork, Carmel Summers of “Good Things Café” near Durrus has built up a terrific following for her sophisticated local food and her cooking classes – www.thegoodthingscafe.com

In Dublin, Lynda Booth of the Dublin Cookery School www.dublincookeryschool.com  has a good variety of courses to choose from as does the Cook’s Academy in Dublin www.cooksacademy.com  

In Wicklow there’s Catherine Fulvio in Ballyknocken House – whose vivacious style has lured many into the kitchen – teaches classes  www.ballyknocken.com 040444627
Both Lynda and Catherine are past pupils of Ballymaloe Cookery School.

Eurotoque chef Kevin Dundon also teaches regular cookery classes at his country house, Dunbrody in Co Wexford. Tel. 051 389600 www.dunbrodyhouse.com
Also in Co Wexford, Pierce and Valerie McAuliffe of Dunbrody Abbey Cookery School run tailor made cookery classes 051 388933
www.cookingireland.com

In Cork city chef Gary Masterson has a whole series of cookery classes planned at Brennan’s Cook Shop, Oliver Plunket Street. There are two classes weekly open to the public, he also organises cookery staff nights out and hen parties. Tel 021 4278283
www.brenco.ie

Here at the Ballymaloe Cookery School, we have a series of evening cooking classes on Wednesday evenings from 7-10pm at a cost of €50 per person which includes copies of all recipes and tastings.  Afternoon cookery demonstrations are open to the public almost every day 2 – 5pm. See our website www.cookingisfun.ie for further details. 

 

 

Mushroom Soup

Serves 8-9

Mushroom soup is the fastest of all soups to make and surely everyone’s favourite. It is best made with flat mushrooms or button mushrooms a few days old, which have developed a slightly stronger flavour.

450g (1 lb) mushrooms (flat mushrooms are best)
110g (4 ozs) onions
25g (1oz) butter
salt and freshly ground pepper
25g (1oz) flour
600ml (1 pint) milk
600ml (1 pint) homemade chicken stock or vegetable stock

Rinse the mushrooms quickly under cold running water. Chop the onion finely. Melt the butter in a saucepan on a gentle heat. Toss the onions in the butter. Cover and sweat until soft and completely cooked. Meanwhile, chop up the mushrooms very finely.* Add to the saucepan and cook on a high heat for 4 or 5 minutes. Meanwhile bring the stock & milk to the boil in a separate pan. Stir the flour into the onions and mushroom mixture and cook on a low heat for 2-3 minutes. Season with salt and freshly ground pepper, then add the hot stock and milk gradually, stirring all the time. Increase the heat and bring to the boil.  Taste and add a dash of cream if necessary. Serve immediately or cool & reheat later.

Tip:  If you can’t be bothered to chop the mushrooms finely, just slice and then whizz in a liquidizer for a few seconds when the soup is cooked.  Be careful not to overdo it, this soup should still have a coarse texture. Stalks may also be used. Mushroom soup freezes perfectly.

Watchpoint: Bring the milk to the boil otherwise it may curdle if added to the soup cold.
White Soda Bread and Scones

Soda bread only takes 2 or 3 minutes to make and 20-30 minutes to bake. It is certainly another of my ‘great convertibles’. We have had the greatest fun experimenting with different variations and uses.  It’s also great with olives, sun dried tomatoes or caramelized onions added, so the possibilities are endless for the hitherto humble soda bread.

1 lb (450g) white flour, preferably unbleached
1 level teaspoon salt
1 level teaspoon bread soda
sour milk or buttermilk to mix – 12-14 fl ozs (350-400 ml) approx.

First fully preheat your oven to 230ºC/450ºF/regulo 8.

Sieve the dry ingredients. Make a well in the centre.  Pour most of the milk in at once. Using one hand, mix in the flour from the sides of the bowl, adding more milk if necessary. The dough should be softish, not too wet and sticky. When it all comes together, turn it out onto a well floured worked surface.  WASH AND DRY YOUR HANDS.  Tidy it up and flip over gently.  Pat the dough into a round about 1 1/2 inches (2.5cm) deep and cut a cross on it to let the fairies out! Let the cuts go over the sides of the bread to make sure of this. Bake in a hot oven, 230ºC/450ºF/regulo 8 for 15 minutes, then turn down the oven to 200ºC/400ºF/regulo 6 for 30 minutes or until cooked. If you are in doubt, tap the bottom of the bread: if it is cooked it will sound hollow.

White Soda Scones

Make the dough as above but flatten the dough into a round 1 inch (2.5cm) deep approx. Cut into scones. Cook for 20 minutes approx. in a hot oven (see above).
Cheddar Cheese Scones or Herb and Cheese Scones

4 ozs (110g) grated mature Cheddar cheese
egg wash

Make the White Soda bread or herb dough. Stamp into scones, brush the top of each one with egg wash and then dip into grated cheddar cheese, bake as for soda scones, or use to cover the top of a casserole or stew.

Cheddar Cheese and Thyme Leaf Scones

Substitute thyme leaves for mixed herbs in above recipe.

Rosemary and Olive Scones

Add 1 1/2 tablespoons of chopped fresh rosemary and 2 tablespoons roughly chopped stoned black olives to the dry ingredients and proceed as in the master recipe.
Tagine of Lamb with `Medjool Dates

 Tagines are brilliant for easy entertaining. The word Tagine refers both to the distinctive earthenware cooking pot with shallow base and conical top and to a multitude of stew-like dishes cooked in it.   These can be based on meat, fish, poultry or vegetables.

Serves 6

1.35kg (3 lbs) boned shoulder of lamb
1/2 tablespoon ground cinnamon
1 teaspoon freshly grated ginger
1/2 teaspoon paprika
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
generous pinch saffron
50g (2ozs) butter
2 onions, chopped
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
10 fl ozs (300ml) tomato juice
salt
175g (6ozs) Medjool dates
2 tablespoons chopped coriander

1 tablespoon oil, optional
50g (2ozs) flaked almonds

fresh coriander leaves

Trim the lamb, discarding excess fat. Cut into 1 1/2 inch (4cm) cubes. Mix cinnamon, paprika, ginger, pepper and saffron with 4 tablespoons water. Toss the lamb in this mixture. If you have time, leave to marinade for up to 24 hours.

Melt the butter in a wide pan. Add the lamb, onions, garlic, tomato juice, salt and enough water to come half way up the meat. Bring up to the boil, cover and reduce heat to a gentle simmer. Cook for about 45 minutes, turning the lamb occasionally until the meat is meltingly tender. Add the dates, and coriander. Continue simmering for a further 30 minutes or so, uncovered until the sauce is thick and unctuous. Taste and adjust seasoning.

Fry the almonds in the oil until almost golden brown. Drain on kitchen paper. Sprinkle almonds and remaining coriander over the lamb just before serving.

Serve with couscous

To cook Couscous

The commercial varieties of couscous we get here are pre-cooked and instant. You do not need to steam it in the traditional way; in fact it’s no advantage to do so. Once the grain has absorbed an equal volume of water, all you need to do is heat it through.

Making couscous
For 6 people, put 500g (1lb2oz) of medium-ground couscous in a pyrex or pottery bowl. Add 600 ml (1 pint) of warm salted water (with ½-1 teaspoon of salt) gradually, stirring so that it gets absorbed evenly. After about 10 minutes, when the grain has become a little plump and tender, add 3 tablespoons of sunflower oil and rub the grain between your hands to air it and break up any lumps.
Heat it through in the oven, covered with foil. A small quantity for 2 or 3 can be heated in a saucepan, stirring so as not to burn the bottom, or in the microwave. Before serving, break up any lumps very thoroughly and work in 2 tablespoons of butter or sunflower oil.
Sweetheart Biscuits with Rhubarb Fool
Makes 45-50 biscuits approx.

8 ozs (225g) soft butter
4 ozs (110g) castor sugar
10 ozs (275g) self-raising flour
grated rind of one lemon or orange

Cream the butter, add in the castor sugar, sifted flour and grated lemon or orange rind and mix just until it all comes together. Alternatively, place all four ingredients in the bowl of a food mixer and mix slowly until all the ingredients come together. At this stage the dough can either be used right away or put in the deep freeze or kept in the fridge for up to a week.

When required, bring up to room temperature and form into small balls the size of a walnut. Flatten them out onto a baking sheet using the back of a fork dipped in cold water. Allow plenty of room for expansion.

Bake in a preheated oven – 180°C/350°F/regulo 4 for 10 minutes approx. Sprinkle with vanilla sugar. When cold, store in air tight containers.

Serve with Rhubarb Fool (see Fool Proof Food)

Chocolate Mousse with Boudoir Biscuits

225g (1/2 lb) of best quality dark chocolate
150ml (5 fl ozs) water
15g (1/2oz) unsalted butter
1 tablespoon Jamaica Rum
6 small or 4 large free range, organic eggs

Chocolate Caraque 
110g (4ozs) dark chocolate

Decoration
whipped cream
chocolate Caraque
unsweetened cocoa

First make the mousse. Break the chocolate into small pieces and melt in a bowl with the unsalted butter and water over a low heat.  Stir gently until melted and completely smooth.  Remove, cool, whisk in the rum if using and the egg yolks.  Whisk the egg whites and fold them in.  Beat for 5-6 minutes, this makes the mousse smooth and silky even though it sounds like a contradiction.   The mousse thickens as it is beaten at the end.  Fill individual glasses or espresso cups with the mousse.  Allow to set for 5 or 6 hours or overnight.

Then make the Caraque. 
Melt the chocolate and spread it thinly with a palette knife onto a marble slab.  Allow it to set almost completely and then with a sharp knife or paint scraper shave off long, thin scrolls.  Use a slightly sawing movement and keep your hand upright.  This is fun to do but there’s quite a lot of skill involved – you’ll get good at it with practice and you can always eat the rejects!

Serve with Boudoir biscuits.

 

Fool Proof Food
Rhubarb Fool

Serves 6 approx.

1 lb (450g) red rhubarb, cut into chunks
6-8ozs (175-225g) sugar
2 tablespoons water
10 fl ozs (300ml) cream whipped

Put the rhubarb into a stainless saucepan with the sugar and water, stir, cover, bring to the boil and simmer until soft, 20 minutes approx.  Stir with a wooden spoon until the rhubarb dissolves into a mush. Allow to get quite cold. Fold in the softly whipped cream to taste. Serve chilled with sweetheart biscuits.

Hot Tips

Mary Dowey’s well-established ‘Introduction to Wine Appreciation’ weekend courses at Ballymaloe House will run from 20th – 22nd February 2009 and also 24th – 26th April 2009. Combines good wines, good food and good fun.
Listed in the Top 10 Wine-Tasting courses in Ireland & UK. Suitable for anybody who enjoys wine and would like to learn much more about it.
Ballymaloe House Tel: 021 4652531 www.ballymaloe.ie

Mahon Point Farmers Market

The Mahon Point Farmers Market has resumed after its winter break, it takes place every Thursday 10am-2pm.
Baker, Richard Leigh from Dunmanway begins at the market this week, visit his stall, this is the best bought confectionary you are likely to find.
www.mahonpointfarmersmarket.com 

Slow Food – Taste of India

Local spice guru, Arun Kapil of Green Saffron, will demonstrate how to blend traditional Indian spices and then show us how to make a range of delicious, fragrant curry dishes. All recipes and tasting at the end included and all the spices will be available for purchase on the night. At the Ballymaloe Cookery School, Friday 20th February, 7:30pm – 10.00pm €30.00 Slow Food Members €40.00 non members. Booking essential 021 4646 785 slowfood@cookingisfun.ie
Thrifty Tip

Research has, not surprisingly, shown that we spend less when shopping alone, so whenever possible do a deal with a pal to mind the kids while you shop. Pester power is very effective and expensive. Persuasive and enthusiastic family members can easily tempt us to buy unnecessary items.

 

Marmalade

There’s a big pot of citrus peel bubbling away on my cooker in my kitchen. The whole house smells of marmalade and I love it. The aroma of freshly cooked Seville oranges brings me back almost 40 years when I made my first marmalade. I was so proud of my few pots of glistening preserve studded with thick peel; I kept it on my kitchen shelf so I could admire them and show them off. Even though my favourite is Seville orange marmalade, I make lots of recipes to suit my mood. Sometimes I crave a dark bitter marmalade, on other mornings a fruitier one hits the spot and gives me better results for marmalade tart.
The bitter Seville and Malaga oranges are in season for about 5 or 6 weeks at this time of year. These are the orange trees whose blossoms perfume the air along the roadside in the towns and villages in the South of Spain. When I first saw these trees laden with fruit, I was intrigued. Why had no one picked them? I was deeply impressed by how law-abiding the Spaniards were!
Gradually the penny dropped and I realised the beautiful ripe fruit were actually marmalade oranges, far too bitter to enjoy.
Ironically the Spaniards rarely make marmalade and they are somewhat perplexed by the British and Irish craving for this bizarre preserve. The whole crop of Citrus Aurantium is harvested and sent to British marmalade manufacturers with a sprinkling distributed through the retail trade for those of us who love the experience of making our own marmalade. If you can’t manage to make a years supply during the short Seville orange season, remember these fruit freeze perfectly so you can make a few batches at your leisure later in the year.
This whole orange marmalade version is brilliant to have in your repertoire. I’ve also included a kumquat marmalade recipe given to me by an Australian friend – we make this every year as a special treat and store it in little glass jars. Kumquats are considerably more expensive here than in the antipodean countries, but it’s really worth the extra expense.
One little word, for the past few years I really sought out organic marmalade oranges, because I find it much easier to soften the peel, so if you can find them, it’ll be worth the extra expense.  

Old Fashioned Seville Orange Marmalade


Seville and Malaga oranges come into the shops after Christmas and are around for 4-6 weeks.

Makes approx. 7 lbs (3.2kg)

2 lbs (900g) Seville Oranges
4 pints (2.3L) water
1 lemon
4 lbs (1.8kg) granulated sugar

Wash the fruit, cut in half and squeeze out the juice. Remove the membrane with a spoon, put with the pips, tie them in a piece of muslin and soak for 30 minutes in cold water. Slice the peel finely or coarsely, depending on how you like your marmalade. Put the peel, orange and lemon juice, bag of pips and water into a non-reactive bowl or saucepan overnight.

Next day, bring everything to the boil and simmer gently for about 2 hours until the peel is really soft and the liquid is reduced by half. Squeeze all the liquid from the bag of pips and remove it.

Add the warmed sugar and stir until all the sugar has been dissolved. Increase the heat and bring to a full rolling boil rapidly until setting point is reached 5-10 minutes approx. Test for a set, either with a sugar thermometer (it should register 220F), or with a saucer. Put a little marmalade on a cold saucer and cool for a few minutes. If it wrinkles when you push it with your finger, it’s done.

Allow marmalade to sit in the saucepan for 15 minutes before bottling to prevent the peel from floating.   Pot into hot sterilised jars. Cover immediately and store in a cool dry dark place.

N.B. The peel must be absolutely soft before the sugar is added, otherwise when the sugar is added it will become very hard and no amount of boiling will soften it.

Whiskey Marmalade

Add 6 tablespoons (8 American tablespoons) of whiskey to the cooking marmalade just before potting.

Seville Orange Bakewell Tart

Serves 10-12

Pastry

6oz (175g) flour
4oz (110g) unsalted butter
1oz (25g) castor sugar
2 egg yolks

Almond Filling

9oz (250g) soft butter, unsalted
9oz (250g) castor sugar
9oz (250g) whole almonds (If you are feeling lazy use ground almonds but it won’t taste so good.)
3 eggs
1 dessertspoon Grand Marnier

1/2 – 3/4 pot (8-12fl ozs) of homemade marmalade

1 x 12 inch (30.5cm) tart tin with ‘pop up’ base.

Crème fraiche

First make the pastry.

Put the flour and butter into the food processor.  Whizz for a few seconds then add sugar and egg yolks, turn off the machine just as the pastry starts to form a ball.    Chill for 1/2-1 hour.  Line the flan ring with pastry, fill with paper and baking beans, chill for 15 minutes in a refrigerator. Preheat the oven to 180c/350F/regulo 4. Bake blind for 15 minutes. 

Meanwhile make the almond filling.   Blanch the almonds in boiling water, remove the skins and grind in a liquidiser or food processor.

Whisk the butter with the sugar until soft and fluffy; add the ground almonds, eggs and Grand Marnier if available.   Spread the marmalade over the base of the tart.  Spread the almond filling over the top.

Reduce the oven to 160°C/325°F/regulo 3, and bake for approx. 40 minutes.   Allow to cool on a wire rack.  

Serve with a blob of crème fraiche.

Seville Orange Marmalade Cake

Serves 8-10

350g (12oz) self raising flour
pinch of salt
140g (5oz) butter
140g (5oz) castor sugar
4 tablespoons Seville orange marmalade
2 organic eggs
milk
3- 4 tablespoons of marmalade

17 x 7 1/2 cm (6 1/2 x 3 inch) cake tin

Preheat the oven to 180°C/350°F/Gas Mark 4.

Sieve the flour and salt into a bowl, rub in the butter and add the sugar. Make a well in the centre; add the chopped marmalade and lightly beaten egg and mix to a softish consistency with 5 tablespoons milk. Put into a lined tin and bake in a preheated oven 180°C/350°F/Gas Mark 4 for 1 1/4 hours approximately.

Allow to cool, still wrapped on a wire tray. Paint the top with marmalade and dust with icing sugar.

 

Kumquat Marmalade

Makes 3 pots approximately

In season: winter

My favourite marmalade, I first tasted this in Australia in the Regent court off Potts Point in Sydney, one of my favourite places to stay in the world and certainly the best breakfast.

1 kg kumquats
1¾ litres (56fl oz) water
1¾ kg (3 lb 1oz) sugar

Slice kumquats thinly crossways.  Collect the seeds, put in a small bowl with 250ml (8fl oz) of the water, allow to stand overnight.  Put the kumquats in a larger bowl with the remaining water, cover and allow to stand overnight.
Next day, strain the seeds, save the liquid (this now contains the precious pectin, which contributes to the setting of the jam); discard the seeds.
Put the kumquat mixture into a large saucepan with the reserved liquid from the seeds.  Bring to the boil, reduce the heat, simmer, covered for 30 minutes or until the kumquats are very tender.
Add the warm sugar and stir until fully dissolved.  Bring to the boil and cook rapidly with the lid off for about 15 minutes. Test for a set, put a teaspoon of the mixture on a cold saucer, it should barely wrinkle when pressed with a finger.
Remove the pan from the heat while testing.
Pour into hot sterilised jars. Cover and seal and store in a cool dry place.

Marmalade Glazed Loin of Bacon
Serves 12-15

4-5 lbs (1.8-2.25 kg) loin of bacon, either smoked or unsmoked
½ pot Seville orange marmalade
whole cloves 20-30 approx.

Cover the bacon in cold water and bring slowly to the boil, if the bacon is very salty there will be a white froth on top of the water, in this case it is preferable to discard this water. It may be necessary to change the water several times depending on how salty the bacon is, finally cover with hot water and simmer until almost cooked, allow 15 minutes approx. to the lb.  Remove the rind, cut the fat into a diamond pattern, and stud with cloves.  Chop the rind in the marmalade into dice, and then spread both the marmalade and rind over the bacon.  Bake in a fully preheated hot oven 250°C/475°F/regulo 9 for 15 – 20 minutes approx. or until the top has caramelized.

Note: We use loin of bacon off the bone.

Fool Proof Food

Deep Fried Sprats with Tartare Sauce or Garlic Mayonnaise
In general January or February have few highlights, apart from the arrival of the marmalade oranges in the shops – but when the Sprats arrive in Ballycotton the excitement is tangible. We feast on them for a few short weeks – deep fried, soused, pickled and smoked. Don’t even think of gutting them you may be shocked but we eat them insides and all – completely delicious.
Serves 6 – 8

450g (1lb) Sprats
well seasoned flour
lemon segments
tartare sauce or garlic mayonnaise

Just before serving: Heat the oil in a deep fry to 200°C / 400ºF. Toss the sprats in well seasoned flour, cook until crisp and golden. Put an oyster shell or a little bowl on each plate to hold a generous spoonful of tartare sauce or garlic mayonnaise. Serve immediately with segments of lemon.

Hot Tips

Organic Marmalade Oranges
Contact organic greengrocer Caitriona Daunt to buy her organic marmalade oranges (086) 3623918 or visit her at her vegetable stall at the Midleton Famers Market on Saturday mornings or at Mahon Point Farmers Market on Thursday mornings.

St Bridget’s Day Brunch

Kerry Slow Food are hosting a Slow Brunch to celebrate St Bridget’s day in Kilkooleys Bar, Ballybunion, Co Kerry at 11:00am Sunday 1st February. Learn how to make a St Bridget’s cross as an extra bonus – €20.00 Slow Food members and €25.00 non members. www.slowfoodireland.com

Thrifty Tip

You can bulk out soups, casseroles and stews with a can of haricot, cannellini or black eyed beans. Chickpeas are also delicious – if you soak the dried pulses overnight and cook them yourself they’ll be cheaper and even more nutritious.

The Wine and Food of Ely Through the Seasons

Just before Christmas a book slipped onto the shelves here in Ireland without a particularly big fanfare – ‘the wine and food of ely through the seasons’

The team behind the hugely successful ely restaurants came together to produce what in fact turns out to be two books in one – a terrific cookbook and a must have wine reference.

Husband-and-wife team, Erik and Michelle Robson, had their ‘Eureka!’ moment while they were nibbling tapas on holiday in Seville. They were so taken with the experience of being able to enjoy a huge selection of great wines by the glass that they brought the formula home, to a Georgian townhouse on Ely Place. It proved to be a winning one. Ely winebar, which opened in 1999, now offers over 100 wines by the glass, as well as delicious, home cooked food, with all of the organic beef, pork and lamb, sourced from the family farm in the Burren, Co. Clare.
I love the pasture to plate approach, ely live this philosophy not just talk the talk. Four members of the Robson family are involved in the business which has continued to expand.  Eric’s sister, Sarah is head chef at ely and Michelle’s brother Eamon Moyles is also involved.

Within a short time after it opened, ely winebar set the standard across Ireland and beyond for its innovative approach to serving wine. The combination of an exciting and extensive wine list and beautifully simple food has earned ely a wide and loyal customer base and the respect of wine writers and connoisseurs across the land. The Robsons have since added two new licensed venues – ely chq at the IFSC and ely hq on Hanover Quay.

Now, the team at ely has pooled their expertise in this new cookbook. the wine and food of ely through the seasons has over 70 recipes, and better still Erik and Michelle have chosen two great wines suggestions to accompany each dish.

They touch on subjects such as choosing, storing and serving wine, how to know if a wine is corked, and advice on the best glasses to use and a comprehensive reference of grape varieties. There are little notes throughout the recipes which give handy hints.  Illustrated step-by-steps take a closer look at some trickier techniques, such as opening an oyster, or boning a chicken. There’s also some great stuff on creating a cheeseboard, serving punchy coffee and mixing cocktails – things that I have to say the people at ely know a thing or two about.

Recipes are grouped according to the season – an integral part of the ely experience – and range from winter comfort food such as chargrilled venison with red cabbage, prunes and roasted fig, to a summery cucumber and crab salad, or a dish of tender organic spring lamb. Desserts such as ely mess, espresso crème brûlée and Jamaican coffee pecan brownies will tempt even the most cautious and reluctant cook. Ely fans of which there are many will be thrilled to find the recipes for the ely fishcakes and burgers – the stuff of legend.

Here are some recipes to whet your appetite.
The preparation for this chunky, yet elegant broth may seem lengthy, but soaking beans requires no real effort. The end result is more than worth the time taken.

Sweet Potato Soup with poached oysters
What you need
4 medium/large sweet potatoes
2 cloves garlic
2 medium shallots
olive oil
1 bouquet garni
300ml white wine
1 litre vegetable stock
8 medium oysters
250ml cream
rock salt, black pepper
rocket essence for serving (see recipe Fool Proof Food)

 

What to do
Peel and roughly chop the sweet potatoes, garlic and shallots. Heat 1-2 tbsp olive oil in a pot.
Add the vegetables and sauté with the bouquet garni for 10 minutes, without colouring, until al dente.
Add the white wine. Reduce by half and then add the vegetable stock. Bring to the boil then turn down the heat and simmer for 10 minutes.
Meanwhile, shuck the oysters. Take out the bouquet garni and remove the soup from the heat. Blitz the soup in a blender and add the cream. Season to taste.
Place 2 oysters in each soup bowl. Pour over the hot soup. The heat of the soup will slightly poach the oysters. Serve immediately, drizzled with the rocket essence, if liked. The quantities here are quite generous, so if you have any leftover soup, it will keep nicely in the fridge for up to 3 days.

Serves 4
A wine that works
A glass of Fino sherry is a very civilised accompaniment to most soups. Try the Campo de Guía by Gutierrez Colosia; it has a slightly fruitier style than most Finos.

Also try

Lustau Papirusa Manzanilla, which is a very dry, lighter Fino.

Slow-Cooked Lamb Shanks

A great alternative to the Sunday roast. The more time given to its cooking, the greater the flavours and texture.

In red wine and juniper berries, with parsnip mash

What you need

6 lamb shanks, each about 400g
rock salt and black pepper
3 tbsp olive oil
2 onions, peeled and roughly chopped
2 carrots, peeled and roughly chopped
1 whole head garlic, halved
1 celery stick, quartered
1 bottle full-bodied red wine
12 lightly crushed juniper berries
sprig each of thyme and rosemary bay leaves

For the parsnip mash
4-5 medium parsnips
2 large baking potatoes
2 sprigs of thyme
knob of butter
milk, to cover (about 150ml)

What to do
Preheat the oven to 160°C.
Season the lamb with salt and pepper. Heat the olive oil in a frying pan and brown the lamb shanks. In a heavy ovenproof dish with high sides, fry the onions, carrots, garlic and celery until brown and caramelised. Add the lamb shanks. Pour the bottle of wine over the lamb. Add the juniper berries, herbs and a little salt and pepper. Cover and place in the oven. Cook for 2 ½-3 hours.
Towards the end of the cooking time, prepare the mash. Peel the parsnips and quarter them lengthways. Remove the core of the parsnip (the hard spine that runs through the centre of the parsnip). Peel the potatoes and cut to a similar size to your parsnip quarters. Place the potatoes and parsnips in a large pot with the thyme sprigs, cover with water and bring to the boil. Cook until tender and discard the thyme. Drain and mash with the butter. Warm the milk and add to the mash to create a creamy consistency. Season to taste. When the meat is soft and just falling off the bone, gently lift the shanks out and leave to one side. Strain the liquid, reserving the vegetables, and skim off the fat. Reduce the strained and skimmed gravy to about 300ml by gently simmering in the cooking dish. Taste and adjust the seasoning. To serve, put the mash in individual serving bowls and place a lamb shank on top, spooning over some of the gravy or jus. Place the reserved vegetables in a bowl and serve on the side.

A note for the cook
If you prefer, you can serve the lamb shanks with a selection of steamed vegetables, depending on what’s around. Toss them in butter and chopped herbs.

A wine that works
If you have been decadent enough to use a nice bottle of wine with this recipe, then that’s what you could drink. Either way, a northern Rhône would do very well for both tasks, especially the ‘No Wine’s Land’ from Domaine du Coulet. This is a medium-bodied Syrah that gets its name from the fact that the vineyard lies (unclaimed) between the appellations of Cornas and Saint Joseph.
There’s dark fruit on the nose and palate, blackcurrants, black olives and a touch of vanilla. The wine has freshness to it due to the high minerality of the soil.

Also try
Its big brother, the ‘Brise Cailloux’ from Cornas.
Ely Organic Burger

From the very beginning, the organic burger has been our best-selling dish. We use top-quality organic beef, not too lean or overly minced, so our burgers stay juicy and keep their flavour.

What you need

800g coarsely ground organic beef
1-2 shallots, diced
few sprigs parsley, chopped
1 large free-range egg, beaten
100g fresh white breadcrumbs
rock salt, black pepper
sunflower or olive oil for frying
200g ripe brie (at room temperature)
sliced into 4 salad leaves, to serve

Serves 4
What to do
In a large bowl, combine the beef, shallot, parsley, egg and breadcrumbs. Mix well and season. Divide the mixture into 4 and shape into burgers. Place the burgers on a lined tray and refrigerate until you are ready to cook them.
Preheat the oven to 200ºC. Heat a pan with a metal handle and seal the burgers on each side until brown. You could also seal them on a hot griddle. Transfer to the oven and cook for 20-25 minutes. If you don’t have a pan with a metal handle, preheat a roasting tray in the oven instead. Before serving, place a slice of brie on top of each burger and garnish with some salad.

A note for the cook
If you prefer smaller portions, simply divide the mix into 8 and reduce the cooking time. When you’re sealing the burgers, make sure the pan is hot to prevent sticking.
Feel free to add some horseradish sauce or your favourite relish to the pre-cooked mix. Other toppings could be caramelised onions with melted cheddar, a fried egg and bacon, foie gras or whole roast tomatoes. At ely, we serve the burger on a bed of homemade tomato relish and dress the plate with rocket essence

A wine that works
Crozes-Hermitage from Domaine Yann Chave, one of the northern Rhône’s up-and-coming producers, is a gorgeously big, smoky Syrah with youthful tannins and dry, dark fruit. Perfect for the simplicity of a great burger.

Also try

Hewitson ‘Ned & Henry’, a shiraz/mourvèdre blend from the Barossa Valley.

 

Fish Pie

The ultimate in wholesome comfort food.

What you need

1 medium onion, sliced
100-150g butter
50g flour
½ bottle unoaked dry white wine
550ml cream
250g salmon, filleted, skinned, fine-boned and chopped
250g cod, filleted, skinned, fine-boned and chopped
250g crab meat, fresh or frozen
3 large floury potatoes, such as roosters, peeled and chopped
rock salt, black pepper
50g dill, chopped
50g parsley, chopped
1 egg yolk

Serves 4-6
What to do
Start by sweating the onion in half the butter in a pan. When the onion is translucent, slowly add the flour to make a roux. Over a very low heat, stir in the white wine and 500ml of the cream. Add the fish and crab meat and cook for 12-15 minutes.
Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 180°C. Cook the potatoes in plenty of boiling, salted water until soft. Drain and place back over a low heat covered with a dry, clean cloth for a few minutes. This will help to dry them out a little. Mash the potato with the remaining cream and butter, to taste. Season well with the salt and pepper and set aside. Add the dill and parsley to the pan with the fish and crab meat, and season with salt and pepper. Turn the seafood mix into a large, ovenproof dish and cover with the mash. Brush the top of the potato with the egg yolk.
Bake for 7-10 minutes, or until the potato is golden brown on top.

A note for the cook
This is a great dish to cook for a casual weekend dinner or Sunday lunch. Best of all, most of the work can be done the night before.
Just work through the recipe right up to the point where you assemble the pie, then cover and put in the refrigerator overnight. All you have to do the next day is bake the pie for 15-20 minutes at 180°C.

A wine that works
The creaminess of this dish needs a wine with the ability to cut through the sauce while lifting the mild fish flavours. ‘José Pariente’ by Bodegas dos Victorias in Rueda, Spain, is made from the verdejo grape. It’s almost sauvignon-blanc-like in its freshness, with layers of fruit flavours and a ripe, citrus acidity.

Also try
Broglia ‘Tenuta la Meirana’ Gavi de Gavi.
Banana Pancakes
with brandy cream

A great dessert for when you just want to make use of storecupboard ingredients.
You can leave out the brandy cream if you are serving children.
What to do
Ideally, make the pancake batter the day before, or at least 1 hour in advance.
Sieve the flour into a bowl. In another bowl, whisk the eggs, milk and water together. Make a well in the centre of the flour, then slowly stir the egg mixture into the flour. Cover and keep in the fridge overnight. Heat a non-stick pan. Add a small cube of butter and allow to melt. Ladle in enough pancake mixture to make a circle that holds its shape. Turn as it cooks. Place each cooked pancake in a stack on a warmed plate and cover with a humid tea towel. Keep warm.
Meanwhile, peel the bananas and cut in half lengthways. Melt a knob of butter in a frying pan and cook the bananas until slightly golden. Remove the bananas, carefully pour the brandy into the pan to deglaze and add the cream. Slowly reduce by half.
Place 2 pieces of banana on top of each serving. Drizzle with the brandy cream.

A note for the cook
These are American-style pancakes – they use a thick batter which holds its shape. Making the batter in advance allows the gluten content of the flour to relax resulting in lighter, pancakes. DANGER! Brandy is highly flammable. Be very careful when you’re deglazing the pan, especially if
using gas. Reduce the flame first.

A wine that works
Lustau ‘East India’ has a lovely, creamy, caramelised nose; a sweet palate, with hints of dates and a touch of bitter chocolate. This blend of the palomino and pedro ximénez grapes gives a full, complex and long finish. A real treat that works well with the sweetened banana and the heady brandy.

Also try
A ten-year-old Tawny port such as Warre’s ‘Otima’.

What you need
200g plain flour
2 eggs
100ml milk
1½ tbsp water
100g butter, plus extra for frying pancakes
4 bananas
3-4 tbsp brandy
100ml cream

Serves 4
Warm Dark Chocolate Fondants
A melt-in-the-mouth dessert for chocoholics everywhere.

What you need
125g dark chocolate, 70% cocoa solids, chopped
125g unsalted butter, plus a little extra for greasing the moulds
3 medium organic eggs
3 medium organic egg yolks
65g caster sugar
100g plain flour
1 tbsp cocoa powder, plus a little extra for the moulds

To serve
vanilla ice-cream or
mango sorbet
thin dessert biscuits (optional)

Serves 6

What to do
Put the chocolate and the butter in a heatproof bowl and stand over a pan of simmering water. Leave to melt, stirring until smooth. In another bowl, whisk the eggs, egg yolks and sugar together.
Add the melted chocolate mixture and fold in the flour and cocoa until evenly combined. Lightly grease 6 x 7.5cm ramekins with butter and dust with cocoa. Stand them on a baking tray and pour in the chocolate mixture until about three-quarters full. Place in the fridge for 1 hour to set. Preheat the oven to 200°C. Place the ramekins into the oven for 10 minutes. The fondant should be spongy on the top but still soft in the middle – you can check by gently inserting a small knife and the chocolate mixture should run free. Serve the fondants warm with a scoop of vanilla ice-cream or mango sorbet and a thin dessert biscuit.

A note for the cook
At ely, we like to serve this dessert with a refreshing mango coulis.

A wine that works

Banyuls, a ‘vin doux naturel’, or ‘naturally sweet wine’, from the southern limit of Roussillon in France, is one of the few wines that go well with chocolate. Made predominantly from grenache, the heady aromas of macerated red fruits give way to mocha flavours and a dry, powerful finish. The concentration achieved by the grenache, and the heat and time works well with the chocolate, especially dark chocolate.

Also try

A red Zinfandel, from California.

What you need
125g dark chocolate, 70% cocoa solids, chopped
125g unsalted butter, plus a little extra for greasing the moulds
3 medium organic eggs
3 medium organic egg yolks
65g caster sugar
100g plain flour
1 tbsp cocoa powder, plus a little extra for the moulds

To serve
vanilla ice-cream or
mango sorbet
thin dessert biscuits (optional)

Serves 6

Fool Proof Food

Rocket Essence

Use this lovely vibrant green essence to dress many dishes. It’s simple, tastes delicious.

What you need
110g rocket
150ml extra virgin olive oil

What to do


Blanch the rocket in a pan of boiling water for a few seconds, then immediately refresh in iced water. Add the olive oil and blitz in a blender for 10 seconds. Season to taste.

Hot Tip
Euro-toques Young Chef of the Year 2009
Entries for the Baileys Euro-toques Young Chef of the Year 2009 are now open. The competition, now in its 19th year, gives young chefs the opportunity to come into contact with the top professional chefs in the country and to compete against their peers for the prestigious title. The winner this year will receive a stage in the 2 Michelin Starred Pied a Terre restaurant in London under the tutelage of renowned Australian chef Shane Osborn, who will also be one the judges in this year’s competition. Closing date for entries is Wed 18 February. For information and Entry form contact Ruth Hegarty on 01-6779995 or info@eurotoquesirl.org

O’Connell’s Celebrate a Decade in Business


Restaurants all over the country are offering appetising deals to tempt us to cheer up and eat out. O’Connell’s restaurant – recently re-located to Ballsbridge Court Hotel (formerly The Berkely Court) on Landsdown Road, Dublin 4 – is celebrating a decade in business by offering a ten year anniversary dinner all year. Three courses for €25.00 – seven starters, seven main courses and seven of their irresistible ‘little pots of desserts’ to choose from. I’ve heard rave reviews – to book – 01 6655940
The Food Store – Mayo
For a range of quality local food including locally sourced fresh meat and a selection of ready-cooked food, pop into the The Food Store on the Ballyhaunis Road, Claremorris, Co Mayo. Telephone: 094 62091
Thrifty Tip


Buy a steamer, the multi-tiered bamboo steamer from ethnic shops looks great and are very inexpensive. You can cook several things simultaneously on different levels, which saves both time and energ

Kerry Pies – A Taste of History

I’ve just had a wonderful morning learning how to make traditional Listowel Mutton Pies from Mary Keane, wife of the late play-write John B. I was in the town for the annual Food Fair and of course strayed into the legendary family pub, I fell into lively company and we took to discussing food, local butcher turned bookie, Eric Brown regaled me with stories of the beef and kidney stew and the hare soup his mother used to make after the local coursing meeting. He taught me a new technique of skinning rabbits and slipped me a few tips for the next race meeting. Then who should come to the scene but the matriarch of the Keane dynasty, the doyenne of mutton pies herself, she being the winner of the Listowel Mutton pie competition in 2007. A spirited exchange took place between Mary, her son Billy, Jimmy Deenihan and several other punters about the traditional mutton pie. It was wonderful stuff, everyone had an opinion but what was most thrilling for me was the discovery that the pie tradition is still alive and well in Listowel, Co Kerry. I wished I’d had a video camera to record this exchange. I was still thinking about it when I woke the following morning, so on impulse I picked up the phone and asked Mary to show me herself – the worst she could do was say no if it didn’t suit her. She hadn’t even had a cup of tea when I rang but she said she’d do her best to find someone to stand behind the bar while she ran out to the butcher to get some mutton, “I have the self raising flour and the margarine but I’ll need a drop of buttermilk”
We met in the little kitchen behind the pub around 11am.  All the ingredients, plus salt, ground white pepper and a rolling pin were laid out on the table. Mary had already started to chop and was sharpening a knife on a fragment of whet stone as I arrived. She put me to work right away “Cut the meat cut into tiny cubes, not more than 1/8 of an inch” There was a mixture of shoulder, lap and shank in what we had. The chopped meat went into a green Tupperware bowl and was seasoned liberally with salt and finely ground white pepper. Next the pastry, Mary put about 1 ½ lbs self raising flour into a bowl, a pinch of salt and enough buttermilk to mix. It was more like bread dough really than a pastry. Mary gathered it all together then kneaded it for a minute or two, before rolling out to a thickness of about ¼ inch with the wooden rolling pin. Then she took a saucer out of the cupboard and used it as a template to cut out rounds of dough

Mary was taught how to make traditional pies by her mother in law, Hannah Purtill a member of Cumaunn na Mhán, who lived in a house in Church Street. One at a time each circle of dough was rolled into a thinner round. Mary put a generous half fistful of mutton into the centre, brushed the edges with buttermilk and then pressed another round onto the top, the edges were pressed together to seal and then pricked with a fork 4 or 5 times.
By now the oven had been preheated to 230°C (450ºF) so the pies were baked 3 or 4 at a time on a baking tray – we made 8 in all.
According to Mary, the tradition of pie making in Listowel came about because the women wanted to go to the races, they didn’t want to be deprived of their fun so they made a ‘blast of pies’ a few days before the famous Listowel races. The way Listowel mutton pies are eaten is unique.  The pastry is quite robust because of the small proportion of shortening to flour, t not at all fragile. A big pot of mutton broth is made from the bones with maybe an onion or two added. On race day, the pies are slipped, a couple at a time into the pot of strained broth. They simmer away gently for 15 or 20 minutes and are then served into wide shallow soup bowls with a ladle full of hot broth on top. They are eaten with a spoon and a fork and some extra salt and pepper if you like.

Mary told me that her pies were never quite right for John B, “he was always cribbing that the pastry was always a bit too thick or too thin, not like his mothers”, so eventually she said “Well you can try your hand at it yourself.” So for a whole day before race week in Listowel, in the little kitchen behind the pub, ‘I’d put a bib on him’ and we’d cut up the meat for the pies to have a supply for the pub for race week’. Can you imagine the chat and banter while the two of them made pies together – wish I’d been a fly on a wall?

Listowel Mutton Pies

Despite the fact that mutton is having a terrific revival in the UK it is still very difficult to find mutton in Ireland so use hogget instead (the name for more mature lamb between Christmas and Easter.)

Makes 8

450g (1lb) mutton or hogget–a mixture of neck, shank and scrag end buy a bit more to allow for trimming.

lots of salt and ground white pepper

Pastry
900g (2lb) white flour
½ teaspoon salt
110g (1/4lb) Stork margarine or butter
850ml (1½ pints) buttermilk

Mutton Broth
2-2.5kg (4-6lb) mutton or hogget bones approximately
3-4 large onions, peeled and quartered
a couple of carrots, stalks of celery, parsley stalks, a couple of sprigs of thyme and pepper. OR a stock cube, which Mary occasionally uses.

First prepare the lamb. Trim off the fat and any gristle or membrane. Cut into tiny pieces (roughly 1/8 inch) and put into a shallow bowl. Season well with salt and ground white pepper (the kind that comes in a little cardboard shaker). Toss to make sure the meat is evenly coated.

Then, make the pastry. Put the flour into a bowl. Rub in the margarine or butter, add the buttermilk and mix with your hand to a firm dough, similar though drier than the texture of white soda bread. Mary kneaded the dough for 30 seconds to 1 minute to firm it up. Divide into two pieces. On a floured board, roll the pastry out as thinly as possible, to about 5mm (¼ inch). Mary used a saucer as a template and cut out 8 circles. Take one round and roll it out a little further to thin the pastry to approximately 2-3mm (1/8 inch).  Put a good half fistful of seasoned mutton or hogget into the centre. Brush the edge of the pastry with a little buttermilk and cover with another round that has also been rolled to 1/8-inch thickness. Press the edges together with the tines of a fork, then prick the top several times. 

Preheat the oven to 230ºC/450ºF/gas mark 8. Meanwhile, continue to make the remainder of the pies. When the first four are ready, cook on a baking tray in the preheated oven for 20-30 minutes. Check occasionally and reverse the tray from back to front if necessary. Meanwhile, continue to make the pies until all the pastry and filling is used up. Cool the pies on a wire rack. At this point, they can be kept wrapped for several days or frozen for later use. 

Meanwhile make a simple mutton stock.
Put the mutton or hogget bones into a deep saucepan, add a couple of peeled chopped onions, cover with cold water, bring to the boil, cover and simmer for 1-1½ hours. Strain. Mary said she adds a couple of stock cubes to add extra flavour but if you would rather not, I suggest adding a few thickly sliced carrots and a few sticks of celery, a sprig or two of thyme, some parsley stalks and maybe a sliced white turnip, if available, to add extra flavour to the broth.
Strain and taste, add salt and pepper to correct the seasoning. Save until needed. The broth will keep in a fridge for several days or may be frozen.

To serve the mutton pies – bring the broth to the boil in a deep saucepan, drop a couple of meat pies into the broth. Simmer for 20 minutes. Remove with a slotted spoon. Transfer each pie into a wide shallow soup bowl. Pour a ladle of mutton broth on top. Eat with a fork and spoon and extra pepper and salt, depending on your taste.

Kerry Pies

Mutton pies, made in Kerry, were served at the famous Puck Fair in Killorglin in August and taken up the hills when men were herding all day. The original hot water crust pastry was made with mutton fat but we have substituted butter for a really delicious crust.
Serves 6

1 lb (450g) boneless lamb or mutton (from shoulder or leg – keep bones for stock)
9 1/2 oz (275g) chopped onions
9 1/2 oz (275g) chopped carrots
1 teaspoon parsley
1 teaspoon thyme leaves
1/2 pint (300ml/) mutton or lamb stock
2 tablespoons flour
salt and freshly ground pepper

Hot Water Crust Pastry

12 oz (340g) white flour
6 oz (170g) butter
4 fl oz (100ml) water
pinch of salt
1 egg beaten with a pinch of salt to glaze

2 tins, 6 inches (15cm) in diameter, 1 1/2 inches (4cm) high or 1 x 9 inch (23cm) tin

Cut all surplus fat away, then cut the meat into small neat pieces about the size of a small sugar lump. Render down the scraps of fat in a hot, wide saucepan until the fat runs. Discard the pieces. Cut the vegetables into slightly smaller dice and toss them in the fat, leaving them to cook for 3-4 minutes. Remove the vegetables and toss the meat in the remaining fat over a high heat until the colour turns. Stir the flour into the meat. Cook gently for 2 minutes and blend in the stock gradually. Bring to the boil, stirring occasionally. Return the vegetables to the pan with the parsley and thyme leaves, season with salt and freshly ground pepper and leave to simmer, covered. If using young lamb, 30 minutes will be sufficient; an older animal may take up to 1 hour.

Meanwhile make the pastry. Sieve the flour and salt into a mixing bowl and make a well in the centre. Dice the butter, put it into a saucepan with the water and bring to the boil. Pour the liquid all at once into the flour and mix together quickly; beat until smooth. At first the pastry will be too soft to handle but as it cools it will become more workable. Roll out to 2.5mm/1/4 inch thick, to fit the tin or tins. (The pastry may be made into individual pies or one large pie.)

Fill the pastry-lined tins with the slightly cooled meat mixture. Make lids from the remaining pastry, brush the edges of the base with water and egg wash and put on the pastry lids, pinching them tightly together. Roll out the trimmings to make pastry leaves or twirls to decorate the tops of the pies, make a hole in the centre and egg wash carefully.

Bake the pie or pies at 200C/400F/regulo 6 for 40 minutes approx. Serve hot or cold
 

Kerry Yellow meal Griddle Bread

Mrs McGillycuddy of Caragh Lake in Kerry described this griddle bread to me. It dates back to the middle of the 19th century. Two different grades of yellow meal can still be bought in Foley’s grocery shop in Killorglin so obviously it is still used in this area.

Serves 4

 4ozs /110g yellow meal
good pinch salt
¼ teaspoon bread soda
6 fl ozs (175ml) buttermilk

griddle or 10 inch (25.5cm) non stick pan

Put the yellow meal, salt and sieved bread soda into a bowl, add the buttermilk and beat well with a wooden spoon.
Heat a griddle until hot.(I use a non stick pan.) Pour the  batter onto the griddle and cook until crisp and golden underneath about 4 or 5 minutes. Turn over carefully and continue to cook on the other side, cut into four. Serve warm with country butter. This is very good served with crispy bacon for breakfast or supper.
Pearl McGillycuddy’s All in One Buns

Pearl from Tralee gave me this recipe when she was a student the Ballymaloe Cookery School in 1990. I’ve never bothered to make buns by hand since Pearl gave me this recipe! It’s most depressing, because even though they only take seconds to make they are actually better than the ones I used to make laboriously by hand. These buns are made by the all in one method in a food processor.

Makes 24

8 ozs (225g) soft butter
8 ozs (225g) castor sugar
10 ozs (285g) white flour
4 eggs, preferably free range
1/2 teaspoon baking powder
1/4 teaspoon vanilla extract

Preheat the oven to 220°C/425°F/gas mark 7.

Chop up the butter into small dice, it should be reasonably soft. Put all the ingredients into the food processor and whizz for about 30 seconds. Clear the sides down with a spatula and whizz again until the consistency is nice and creamy, 30 seconds approx. Put into greased and floured bun trays or paper cases and bake in the hot oven. Reduce the temperature to 190°C/375°F/gas mark 5 as soon as they begin to rise.  Bake for 20 minutes approx. in total. Cool on a wire rack and decorate as desired.

Butterfly Buns

Cut the top off the buns, cut this piece in half and keep aside. Meanwhile put a little homemade raspberry jam and a blob or cream on to the bottom part of the bun. Replace the two little pieces, arranging them like wings. Dredge with icing sugar and serve immediately.

These buns may be iced with dark chocolate icing or coffee icing. They are also delicious, painted with raspberry jam or redcurrant jelly and dipped in coconut.

Traditional Kerry Apple Cake

Makes 25-30 pieces
450g (1lb) plain white flour
175g (6oz) butter
2 teaspoons baking powder
175g (6oz) castor sugar
3 free range eggs
225ml (8fl oz) milk
1/2 teaspoon ground cloves

2 cooking Bramley apples

Baking tin 30x20cm 7.5cm deep (12x8in 3in deep)

Preheat the oven to 200C/400F/gas mark 6.

Peel, core and chop the apple into 5mm (1/4in) dice. In a large bowl, rub the butter into the flour. Add the baking powder, castor sugar, diced apple and 1/2 teaspoon ground cloves.  Whisk the eggs with a cup of milk in another bowl.  Add to the dry ingredients and mix well with a wooden spoon, the mixture will be a soft texture.  Pour into the greased and lined roasting tin.  Bake at 200C/400F/gas mark 6 for 35 to 40 minutes or until the apples are soft and the top is golden brown.  Dredge with soft brown sugar while hot, cool and serve.

Fool Proof Food  
 
A great icing for éclairs or Pearl’s All in One Buns
 
Dark Chocolate Icing
6 ozs (175g) icing sugar
2 oz (50g) cocoa powder
3 ozs (75g) butter
3 fl ozs (75ml) water
4 ozs (110g) castor sugar

Sieve the icing sugar and cocoa powder into a mixing bowl. Measure the butter, water and sugar into a saucepan. Set over a low heat and stir until the sugar has dissolved and the butter is melted. Bring just to the boil, then draw off the heat and pour at once into the sifted ingredients. Beat with a wooden spoon until the mixture is smooth and glossy. It will thicken as it cools.

Hot Tips

Slow Food Limerick for Babies & Toddlers
Mothers and fathers mark your calendars; Slow Food for Babies will take place at the Hunt Museum on Sunday February 1st 2009 at 3.00pm. This event will discuss how best to nourish our babies and toddlers to ensure that they are hale and hearty using good, seasonal and – where possible – locally produced food. 
The speakers are Julie Dargan, Nutritionist and Marianne Murphy, Psychotherapist.
For further information contact Josephine Page 087 9460490 or josephinepage@hotmail.com

Bees, Beekeeping and Biodiversity
Well known beekeeper Tim Rowe will talk about honeybees, their lives, importance, plight and the role of good beekeeping. Thursday 29th January 2009 at 7:30pm at the Crawford Art Gallery Café, entrance €6.00 includes tea or coffee (021) 4274415
http://www.crawfordartgallery.ie/Cafe.html

Thrifty Tip  
 
Save on energy and fuel bills
Choose the right size saucepan for the purpose. The base of the pan should cover the hob or gas jet. If it’s smaller the spare heat is wasted. There is no point in using a huge pan to cook small quantities of food.

New York New York

New York was doing its best to be jolly when I was in Manhattan recently for a friend’s wedding. It’s difficult to get New Yorkers down; they have been through a lot and have managed to keep their spirits up despite the many challenges they have had to collectively face. Everyone seemed to be excited about Barrack Obama’s inauguration; however there was no concealing the number of Rental Space for sale.
It’s an ill wind as they say and for anyone who had the mind to shop, there’s tremendous value to be had (that’s if you really need it!) and the added feel good factor of doing your bit for the beleaguered economy.
Sales assistants in fear of losing their jobs from week to week thank you sincerely for your business. The restaurants too are definitely feeling the pinch although my cooking teacher friends tell me there is an increased demand for basic skills classes as more and more people decide to eat in and need the skills to make their own lunches to feed themselves and entertain their pals.
For those of us who love our food, New York is full of gems and there is solace in knowing that restaurants, where one had to beg for a table a couple of months ago are now very glad and grateful for the business in restaurants.
New York restaurant chefs also see themselves as providers not just of comfort food but of an injection of good cheer in the midst of the financial gloom and widespread redundancies.
Some of the newest gems are tiny, I particularly enjoyed Porchetta on the lower East side, chef owner Sara Jenkins cooks heritage pork from Hampshire hogs in the tiniest of spaces. It is juicy and succulent inside and has a bubbly, crisp crackling on the outside. There’s just enough room by the marble topped counter for about six people to queue. The pork is rubbed with thyme, sage, rosemary, garlic and sea salt before being roasted, long and slowly. Punters can choose from the eight item menu. The pork is chopped and served in a crusty roll with a choice of different greens. The quintessential New York lunch is then wrapped in butchers brown paper to take out.. A ‘side’ of roast potatoes with crunchy burnt bits is a must, one bite and you would think you were in an old Taverna in Florence or Rome. It was just drop-dead delicious and a brilliant concept.
Just around the corner was another little cubby hole, Abaco BraÅ›serie which sells powerful freshly roasted coffee, sublime hot chocolate and a selection of three or four cookies, again brilliant in its simplicity. The woman chef offers three or four choices from the ingredients she finds at the Farmers Market that morning, a soup, frittata, a salad…
Everyone is talking about local food, market ingredients and flocking to neighbourhood places offering good value for money.
Another well kept secret is the best hamburger joint in Manhattan; it’s in the most unlikely venue. Just inside the main entrance to the Parker Meridian hotel,, behind a heavy velvet curtain one finds the excellent aptly named Burger Joint. The choices are on a blackboard, you queue to give your order and wait your turn for a formica topped table – it was one of the best burgers I have ever eaten and believe me I am deeply wary of hamburger joints.
Any of Mario Batali’s restaurants are worth making a beeline for, including Lupa, Babbo, Esca, Casa Mono, Del Posto, Otto, and The Spotted Pig –, you can eat at the counter if you can’t get a table – even in this climate they are all still pretty busy. His food is mostly Italian and is honest and earthy. This is the place to go if you enjoy slow cooked dishes and lots of home cured charcuterie. All cutting edge chefs are doing their own curing and preserving – wonderful to see these skills being passed on. Mario Batali’s books are available from Amazon. www.amazon.com  For sushi lovers the best is to be had at Sushi Yasuda on 204E 43rd Street. For those who want to combine some culture with shopping don’t miss The Museum of Modern Art – MOMA – and drop into the Bar at the Modern for lunch or a fantastic cocktail.
For another very New York lunch go to Momo Fuko Noodle bar in the East Village or the New Momo Fuko Kai – I so love David Chang’s food – great place to sample the new small plate craze.
If you are in New York over the weekend, don’t miss the Union Square Farmers Market on Saturday morning. Wrap up well and go early, it gives you a glimpse into what all the coolest New Yorkers are eating straight from the farms in upstate New York. Then go to Ino on Bedford and order a truffled egg toast for breakfast.
Now is the time to go to some top places that have been out of reach up to now, Per Se, voted number one for food and service by Zagats Guide, would be a good place to start. Daniel, Four Seasons and Blue Hill are all exceptional. Lunch is terrific value – same quality and food for a fraction of the price.

For great tapas try Tia Pol – there’s so much more, never enough meal times but you can pick up a picnic from of the great food shops, Dean & Deluca and Zabar’s. Last time I bought a sublime collection of treats from upstairs in the Time Warner building to eat on the plane – I was the envy of everyone around me. Here are some treats that I have enjoyed from Mario Batali’s book Molto Italiano to cheer us up on these frosty winter days.
Look out for Mario’s fantastic TV series ‘Spain on the Road Again’ with Gwyneth Paltrow www.spainontheroadagain.com. 

Porchetta 110E 7th Street, New York 00 1 212 7772151
Contact details for Mario Batali’s restaurants www.mariobatali.com
Daniel 60E 65th Street, New York. www.danielnyc.com
Four Seasons 99E 52 Street (Park Avenue) www.fourseasonsrestaurant.com
Blue Hill 75 Washington Pl, New York. www.bluehillfarm.com
Mario Batali – Shrimp from the Devil Priest

Gamberoni fra Diavolo
This “guido” red sauce restaurant dish has probably never been served anywhere in Italy, but I have tasted thousands of versions in Little Italys all across the United States. Usually it is served with the option of “linguine, fettucine, bucatini, or capellini,” but I like it as a main course, after a light antipasto and a plate of spaghetti with bottarga. Italians serve most of their shellfish head and shell on, but you could use peeled shrimp here as well.
Makes 4 servings
½ cup extra virgin olive oil
6 cloves of garlic, thinly sliced
4 jalapenos, seeded and thinly sliced
1 tablespoon hot red pepper flakes
2 cups basic tomato sauce
1 cup dry white wine
20 large shrimp, head on, split down the back and deveined
4 1 inch-thick slices rustic peasant bread
2 tablespoons fresh marjoram leaves
¼ cup toasted bread crumbs
Preheat the broiler. In a 12 inch sauté pan, heat ¼ cup of the oil over a medium heat. Add the garlic and jalapenos and cook until softened , about 3 minutes. Add the red pepper flakes, tomato sauce and wine and bring to a boil. Lower the heat and simmer for 4 minutes.
Lay the shrimp in the sauce and simmer until just cooked through, 4 to 6 minutes.
Meanwhile, toast the bread on a baking sheet under the broiler, turning once. Place a slice of toasted bread in the centre of each four plates.
Place 5 shrimp on each piece of toast, and spoon the sauce over them. Sprinkle with marjoram leaves and bread crumbs, drizzle with the remaining ¼ cup oil and serve.
Mario Batali’s Lamb Shanks with Oranges and Olives

Stinco di Agnello con Aranci d Olive
I am certain that the combination of oranges and olives must be part of my primordial stew. I never tire of the combination – in fact, I am forever thinking of new variations on their life together.
Makes 4 Servings
4 large meaty lamb shanks, rinsed and patted dry
salt and freshly ground black pepper
6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 red onions cut into ¼ inch dice
12 cloves garlic
1 navel orange, cut into 8 wedges
2 tablespoons chopped fresh rosemary
½ cup Gaeta olives
1 cup dry white wine
1 cup basic tomato sauce
1 cup chicken stock
zest of one navel orange
Preheat the oven to 375°F
Season the shanks liberally with salt and pepper. In a large Dutch oven, heat the olive oil over high heat until smoking. Reduce the heat and sear the shanks, turning occasionally, until dark golden brown, 15 to 18 minutes. Transfer to a plate and set aside.
Add the onions, garlic and orange wedges to the pot and cook until the garlic is softened, 8 to 10 minutes. Add the rosemary, olives, wine, tomato sauce, and stock and bring to the boil.
Replace the lamb shanks in the pot and return to the boil. Cover tightly, place in the oven and cook for 1 to 1 ½ hours, until the meat is fork-tender.
Allow the shanks to rest for 10 minutes in the sauce, then transfer to warmed plates, sprinkle with zest and serve.

Mario Batali – Basic Tomato Sauce

Makes 4 cups

¼ cup extra virgin olive oil
1 Spanish onion, cut into ¼ in dice
4 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
3 tablespoons chopped fresh thyme
½ medium carrot, finely shredded
2 28 oz cans whole tomatoes

In a 3-quart saucepan, heat the olive oil over a medium heat. Add the onion and garlic and cook until soft and light golden brown, 8 to 10 minutes. Add the thyme and carrot and cook until the carrot is quite soft, about 5 minutes.
Add the tomatoes, with their juice and bring to the boil, stirring often. Lower the heat and simmer until as thick as hot cereal, about 30 minutes. Season with salt. This sauce can be refrigerated for up to 1 week or frozen for 6 months. 
Mario Batali – Clementines with Balsamic Vinegar and Pepper

Mandarini al Aceto Balsamico

My grandma always sent us a couple of boxes of clementines with the Christmas cookies, and they were always one of the quickest things to go on Christmas morning as we unwrapped the presents. Now, while I still love them right out of the peel, I also love the combination of real aceto balsamico and black pepper for an adult take on their simplicity.
Makes 4 servings
8 clementines (or other small seedless citrus fruit) peeled and segmented
2 tablespoons best-quality aged Balsamic vinegar
1 teaspoon sugar
Course black pepper
In a large bowl, toss the clementines, vinegar and sugar together well
Divide the fruit among four martini glasses of small bowls, being sure to get all the vinegar out of the bowl. Crack fresh pepper over the top and serve.

Mario Batali – Lemon Sponge Cake with Pear Marmalade

Ciambella con le Pere

The cakes in the family of ring-shaped ciambelle are more often served in the late afternoon, when nonna needs a sip of sweet wine before the evening apertivo.
Makes 6 servings

2 ½ cups cake flour
½ teaspoon salt
2 teaspoons baking powder
5 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
¾ cup sugar
3 large eggs
grated zest of 6 lemons
½ cup while milk
¾ cup pear marmalade
confectioners’ sugar

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Butter and flour two 8-inch round cake pans.
In a medium bowl, toss the flour, salt and baking powder with a fork to mix well.
In a large bowl, beat the olive oil and sugar together with an electric mixer until well blended. Add the eggs one at a time, beating well after each addition. Put the dry ingredients in a sifter and sift about one third onto the egg mixture. Add the lemon zest and fold in the flour and zest, then stir in about one third of the milk. Add the remaining flour and milk in two additions each, blending well.
Turn the batter into the prepared cake pans. Bake for 25 minutes, or until the cakes are beginning to pull away from the sides of the pans and spring back when pressed lightly in the centre with a finger. Turn the cakes out onto a rack and invert into another rack to cool.
To assemble, place one cake layer on a serving plate and spread the marmalade over the top. Place the second later on top and gently press the layers together. Sprinkle the top of the cake with confectioners’ sugar.

Pear Marmalade

Marmellata di Pere

Makes 3 cups

2 pounds firm un-ripe pears, peeled cored and chopped into small pieces.
1 1/3 cup sugar
3 cloves
1 tablespoon freshly ground black pepper

1. In a large bowl, mix the pears, sugar and cloves together. Cover with a  kitchen towel and set aside for at least 3 hours to let the juices start to run.
2. Transfer the pears and the juice to a large nonreactive saucepan, bring to the a simmer, and simmer gently stirring frequently, with a wooden spoon to prevent sticking until the pears are tender. Remove from the heat, stir in the pepper, remove the cloves and allow to cool. (The extra marmalade can be covered and refrigerated for at least a week)

Fool Proof Food

Ballymaloe Chicken Liver Pate

Serves 10-12 depending on how it is served.

This recipe has certainly stood the test of time; it has been our pâté maison at Ballymaloe since the opening of the restaurant in 1965.  It is served in many different ways: its success depends upon being generous with good Irish butter.

225g (8oz) fresh organic chicken livers
2 tablespoons brandy
200-300g butter (depending on how strong the chicken livers are)
1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves
1 large clove garlic, crushed
freshly ground pepper

clarified butter to seal the top

Wash the livers and remove any membrane or green tinged bits.
Melt a little butter in a frying pan; when the butter foams add in the livers and cook over a gentle heat.  Be careful not to overcook them or the outsides will get crusty; all trace of pink should be gone.   Put the livers through a sieve or into a food processor.  De-glaze the pan with brandy, allow to flame, add the crushed garlic and thyme leaves and then scrape off with a spatula and add to the livers.  Puree for a few seconds.  Allow to cool.

Add 225g (8oz) butter and fresh thyme leaves. Puree until smooth.  Season carefully, taste and add more butter, cut into cubes if necessary.

This pate should taste fairly mild and be quite smooth in texture. Put into pots or into one large terrine. Knock out any air bubbles.

Clarify some butter and run a little over the top of the pate to seal.
Serve with hot toast or crusty bread.   This pate will keep for 4 or 5 days in a refrigerator. It is essential to cover chicken liver pate with a layer of clarified or even just melted butter, otherwise the pate will oxidize and become bitter in taste and grey in colour.
Hot Tips

Vegetable Growing Course Barry’s Nurseries

Register for this course at their open day Sunday 25th January 2009. For details (086) 814 1133 teresabarry@eircom.net 

Have Fun Learning Cooking Skills

Another series of Ballymaloe Basics starts on Wednesday 21st January for eight weeks. €50.00 per class or €375.00 for eight.  Learn how to cook entire menus, starters, main courses and desserts. Booking essential, phone (021) 4646 785 or book online www.cookingisfun.ie

East Cork Tourism

For upcoming events www.eastcork.com

Artisan Charcuterer

Frank Krawczyk is doing a range of delicious sausages and a frying chorizo to add to his cured meat range. Available at the Schull and Midleton Farmers Markets. Telelphone: 028 28579 westcorksalamis@gmail.com

Thrify Tip

Plan food that will last for more than one meal – roast organic chicken costs a lot more than chicken fillets but one can make several meals from it, terrific stock from the carcass and giblets plus a little chicken liver pate from the liver.

Sam Stern – Learn from the Student

Students come from all over the world to the Ballymaloe Cookery School. It’s a lovely mixture of ages, nationalities and backgrounds – this term eight countries are represented. It’s always interesting to meet the new batch. Last term we had the usual cosmopolitan mix, some had never cooked before, others had dabbled in the kitchen, one or two were chefs who had missed some of the basics and wanted to hone their skills.

They got started and settled in and I gradually became familiar with everyone’s names – one of the young lads was called Sam Stern – why did that ring a bell? Wasn’t sure         until I picked up a cook-book at Heathrow airport and there was Sam smiling from the cover. He had been with us for five or six weeks by then and never breathed a word that not only had written four best selling cook books but also did a TV series with a big fan base check out www.samstern.co.uk

 

He wrote his first book in 2004 at the age of thirteen with the support and encouragement of his mum, Susan Stern – a writer, teacher and voice coach to the stars.

Sam’s books are written for young lads and ladettes like himself who love to cook or would love to be able to rustle up a spontaneous pasta or delicious thrifty nosh with the occasional treat for themselves and their mates.

His latest book ‘Sam Stern’s Student Cookbook’ is a little gem which should not be reserved for students alone – the first few pages are full of thrifty tips and brilliant nutritional advice. Keeping fit is a great motivation. If you’re into sport, training, or just want to feel good about the way you look, cooking’s key to sorting energy and performance. Tailor your menu to your physical needs and you can trust that what you’re eating is fit for purpose – e.g. carbs for energy (eat pasta), protein for muscle (get pork or tofu). Same goes for exams, work etc. Eating the right stuff (iron, protein, omega 3s, and vitamins) gives you the focus you need but hey, do it in style with some great home-cooked tastes and maximise the pleasure. There are lots of savvy and smart shopping tips, advice on planning ahead, a basic store cupboard, how to source free food, energy and cash saving ideas, making the most of your food and basic techniques. The first few pages are worth the price of the book alone. But there are over 200 cracking recipes which are categorised into:

£ Skint/ saving, ££ Average, £££ Flush / celebration. Veggie options and fast to cook are also highlighted.

A little gem, not only as a present for young people but for all the rest of us as well.

 

Bacon, Cheese and Potato Tartiflette

 

All your favourite basics on meltingly hot and softly gorgeous form. An easy one-pan classic. There’s one rule – don’t rush it.

 

Feeds 2 – 3 – £

 

olive oil

4 rashers good bacon, chopped

bit of butter

1 onion, thinly sliced

2 cloves garlic, thinly sliced

450g (1lb) potatoes, waxy style are best (Charlotte, Wilja) peeled weight

fresh or dried thyme

110g (4oz) Gruyere/Cheddar

 

 

Heat oil in large frying or sauté pan. Fry bacon ‘til just crispy. Remove. Add butter, Fry onion, garlic gently for 10 till softened and just colouring.
Meantime, slice potatoes very thinly for speedy, even cooking. Add to pan with the bacon, onion, garlic. Sprinkle thyme. Cover.
Leave pan on low heat for 15 – 20 minutes or till spuds or ‘til spuds are soft. A knife should pass through easily. Grate/slice cheese over top.
Replace lid. Cook for a few minutes more till cheese has melted. Scrummy, good with a sharp salad.
 

 

My All-Time Favourite Char Sui Pork

 

Pork fillet’s a great lean meat for soaking up sweet Chinese flavours. Marinate overnight or do it in the moment. Veggies: try this marinade with tofu (pan fry it).

 

Feeds – 4 – ££

 

2 x 450g/1lb pieces pork fillet

 

Marinade

 

2 tbsps runny honey

2 tbsps soy sauce

2 tbsps hoisin sauce

1 tsp sesame oil

pinch of five-spice powder

 

eat with: stir fry, rice, noodles

 

 

Stick the pork fillets into the mixed marinade. Turn. Leave for as long as you have. Pre-heat oven to 200°C/400°F/Gas 6. Lay foil in roasting tin. Sit grill rack on top.
Roast meat on rack for 20 minutes or ‘til cooked through. Brush with marinade occasionally. Remove. Rest it in a warm place for 5 minutes.
 

You can

Eat cold in a lunch box to go with noodle salad
Slice up Chinese pancakes with hoisin sauce, cucumber sticks, spring onion
 

Skint Lentils, Rice and Lovely Sticky Onions

 

So simple – caramelised onions lift earthy tasting lentils and rice to a different level, surprisingly gorgeous. A top skint number. You can top with a sliced hard-boiled egg and yogurt. Great with a tomato and onion salad.

 

Feeds 3 – 4 – £

 

1 very large peeled onion, very thinly sliced

1-2 tbsps olive oil

1.2 litres/2 pints water

225g/8oz brown lentils

50g/2oz basmati/long-grain rice

salt and black pepper

 

 

Fry onion very gently in olive oil over low heat ‘til it caramelises (don’t let it burn). This could take 20-30 minutes.
Meanwhile boil water in a pan. Add lentils. Cook for 20-25 minutes or ‘til almost tender. Add washed rice.
Cook rice and lentils for another 10 minutes or ‘til tender and water is absorbed. Drain is a colander if this doesn’t happen.
Leave covered with a tea towel for 5 minutes. Tip on a plate Stir in most of the onions leaving a good few on top. Season.
 

You can: use green lentils: add rice sooner as green lentils cook faster.

 

Hot Sticky Chicken Rice

 

Teriyaki your chicken. It makes great sticky finger food. Get your chopsticks into the rice bowl. Also great cold on noodle or rice salad.

 

Feeds 3-4 – ££

 

Teriyaki Sauce

 

4 tbsps soy sauce

1 ½ tbsps Chinese rice wine

2 tbsbs rice vinegar

1 tbsp caster sugar

¾ in piece fresh ginger, grated or chopped

few drops sesame oil

OR

Kikkoman’s Teriyaki Marinade

 

8 chicken thighs

225g/8oz basmati or long grain rice

pinch salt

 

Preheat oven to 220°C/425°F/gas 7. Mix teriyaki sauce ingredients.
Simmer gently 5-1 minutes in a small pan. Remove. Top two thirds into a bowl for the marinade. Save the rest to drizzle at end.
Prep chicken: pull skin off. Leave the bone in (holds together better and tastes sweeter)
Spread foil on baking tray/shallow roasting tin (stops sauce baking on.) Brush meat with marinade. Sit on foil in single layer. Slap in oven.
Brush with marinade every 5 minutes for 20 – 25 minutes. Remove.
Meantime, cook washed rice as basic (for brown start earlier)
Preheat medium grill. Grill chicken 5 minutes ‘til sticky brown but white inside. Leave it to relax. Drain rice. Cover with a cloth for 3 minutes. Fluff with a fork.
Pile rice into bowls. Top with chicken. Drizzle with saved one-third of marinade.
 

You can: Marinate chopped chicken breast in teriyaki for 30 minutes. Thread on skewers. Grill turning and brushing, for 5 – 7 minutes or ‘til cooked white through. Sit it on rice. Gorgeous.

 

Spanish Style Chorizo and Potato Complete Meal Deal

 

 

Don’t be thinking soup can’t fill you up. This bad-boy bowlful’s a complete meal deal. Spicy chorizo gets it hot and kicking. Potato and veg sort out layers of flavour…

 

Feeds 3-4 – ££

 

110g/4oz chorizo sausage, skinned, sliced

drizzle of olive oil

1 large onion, finely chopped

2 -3 cloves garlic, crushed

2 large floury old potatoes, peeled cut into large bite size bits

water

4 -5 cabbage leaves, finely shredded

1 x 400g/14oz can plum tomatoes, drained

salt and black pepper

 

Gently fry the chorizo in a bit of oil in a medium saucepan for 2–3 minutes. Remove the chorizo and set aside.
Add the onion, garlic and salt to the same pan. Cook gently for 5-10 minutes ‘til soft not coloured. Add the potatoes with enough water to cover without swamping. Increase the heat. Boil for 30 seconds.
Reduce heat. Simmer everything very gently for 10 minutes.
Slap in cabbage, chorizo, drained tomatoes with just enough extra water to cover everything. Simmer very gently on low heat for 15 minutes, ‘til potatoes are well soft and broth fully flavoured.
Add a bit of water if needed. Taste. Adjust seasoning.
 

You can: add a few cannellini beans, chick peas, drizzle with a bit of olive oil, add a pinch of smoked paprika and chopped parsley.

 

 

Onion Bhajis with Raita

 

Bhajis

 

Makes 12 – £

 

450g/1lb onions, halved very thinly sliced, crescent moon style

1 tsp salt

1 tsp cumin

1tsp ground coriander

1 tsp turmeric

2 green chillies, de seeded, very finely chopped

fresh coriander, chopped

60g/2 ½ oz gram flour (from Indian/health food stores)

½ tsp baking powder

sunflower/groundnut oil

 

Raita

Few tbsps plain yogurt

length of cucumber peeled, diced

1 clove garlic, crushed (optional)

 

1 serving

 

1 mango peeled, diced

bit of red onion, diced

½ small red chilli, de seeded, chopped

1 tbsp lime juice

½ tsp caster sugar

fresh coriander

salt and pepper

 

Sprinkle onion slices with salt in colander or sieve. Leave 30 minutes to draw out moisture.
Rinse under running water. Squeeze. Dry very well in tea towel. Transfer to bowl.
Separately, mix cumin, ground coriander, turmeric, chillies, fresh coriander, gram flour, baking powder. Mix in with onions. 
Shape into bhajis. Squeeze well into 12 spiky balls.
Heat 8cm/3in oil in wok, deep saucepan or frying pan. When hot enough to crisp a breadcrumb, fry 4 bhajis at a time, carefully turning ‘til cooked, browned and golden. Drain a kitchen roll.
To make raita, tip yogurt into a bowl and mis with cucumber and garlic.
 

Mango Chutney

 

Chuck the lot into a bowl. Taste for seasoning.
Leave for one hour or eat now.
 

You can: team this with griddled fresh tuna. Cheat, use Sharwoods.

 

Fridge-Bake Tiffin

 

Don’t have an oven or saving on the bills? Make this one…

 

Makes 12 – ££

 

200g/7oz chocolate digestive biscuits

50g/2oz digestive biscuits

110g/4oz raisins

110g/4oz glace cherries

110g/4oz butter

10g/1/2 oz sugar

4 tbsps golden syrup

3 tbsps cocoa powder

 

Bash biscuits into varied-size crumbs/bits. Add raisins, cherries.
Melt butter, sugar, syrup, cocoa over a low heat
Stir into biscuit/fruit mix. Tip into 18×30.5cm/7x11in tin. Press mix down as evenly as you can.
Set in fridge. Mark into 12. Prise out with a spatula.
 

You can: add seeds, nuts etc.

 

HotTip

 

East Cork Slow Food up Coming Events

 

Saturday 17th January, Slow Food East Cork is hosting a Celebration of Irish Pork. Learn about how the pigs at Ballymaloe Cookery School range freely, foraging for food. Watch a demonstration on how to make and link several types of homemade sausages with the opportunity to try it ourselves. Enjoy a sandwich from the pig spit roast too – €30.00 members and €40.00 non-members. 021 4646 785

The Four Rivers Convivium event promoting local pig farmers, will be held in the Arlington Lodge Hotel on the week-end of the 17th of January…€30 for Slow Food members €35 for non members.

For more details on these and other events www.slowfoodireland.com
Thrifty Tip
Don’t shop when you are hungry – you will spend more…

If possible shop at the end of the day when supermarkets reduce some prices. Ask yourself, do you really need it – Mexican blackberries, American raspberries, and Chilean asparagus. Local stuff may be cheaper and uses less air miles.

 

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