As promised, this week’s column is completely devoted to what is probably my favourite but most underrated winter vegetable – Jerusalem artichokes. Despite their name, they’ve got nothing to do with Jerusalem and aren’t even related to artichokes. The flavour is reminiscent of globe artichoke hearts – sweet and nutty. The name appears to be an adaptation of girasole, the Italian word for sunflowers.
They wouldn’t win any prizes in a veggie beauty contest. They resemble misshapen, knobbly potatoes and can be white, pale purple or yellow depending on the strain.
The variety we grow has been passed down from generation to generation in the Allen family. They are ridiculously easy to cultivate, just pop into the soil like potatoes once the weather is dry from the end of February/early March, allowing about 9-12cm between each one. Next winter, you’ll be rewarded with at least 8 or 10 plump rhizomes where you planted a single Jerusalem artichoke.
In the US, they are called Sunchokes, they are in fact a species of the sunflower family. The foliage grows about 8-10 feet tall and the yellow flowers in August resemble small sunflowers and are loved by bees. You could plant them at the back of an herbaceous flower bed to give height and colour. Some folks have had fun creating an annual maze with them – how fun is that?
The leaves are frost tender, but the tubers are hardy and can stay in the ground throughout the winter – we harvest from November right through to the end of February even into March depending on the weather. They begin to sprout if it’s particularly mild.
Choose the largest rhizomes and replant in a different location so the next harvest will be healthy and fulsome too.
Some supermarkets are now selling Jerusalem Artichokes, you’ll also find them at Midleton and Mahon Point Farmers’ Market and the English Market in Cork city.
If you haven’t already got some growing in your garden, jump into the car and make a pilgrimage to our Farm Shop in Shanagarry, I’ll give you a present of a few artichokes. Where you plant one artichoke, you’ll have ten next year – it’s like magic!
By the way, Jerusalem artichokes have the highest inulin content of any vegetable, super important to stimulate the microbes in your gut biome, so here’s a really valuable hot tip…
If you’ve recently been on a course of antibiotics, go out of your way to get some Jerusalem artichoke, I love the flavour but for some they can be a little difficult to digest, hence the nickname ‘fartichokes’ but that’s just an indication that they are definitely stimulating your gut biome!
So now what to do with this ugly vegetable.
They are wonderfully versatile, of course they make a wonderful soup which I sometimes scatter with chorizo crumbs or add a topping of avocado and hazelnut salsa. We love to roast them until the edges are caramelised, they’re delicious hot or cold, as a side or as a basis for a salad.
Slice them thinly and fry until crisp for artichoke chips, crunchy and gorgeous to nibble with a drink or scattered on salads.
Slice and cook to melting tenderness in butter or extra virgin olive oil, whizz to a purée and mix with mashed potato – so good!
They also work brilliantly in a gratin layered up with potato and maybe celeriac or parsnip. That can be an entire meal, maybe with a few bacon or pancetta lardons added. It’s good to know that they can cook a little unevenly but that’s part of their charm.
Crunchy raw Jerusalem artichokes are also irresistible but if sliced ahead, they need to be kept in acidulated water to prevent them from discolouring. Just put a teaspoon of vinegar into the water, strain and discard the liquid before cooking.
We also love these fermented Jerusalem artichokes with even more nutrients – try these as a nibble or delicious crunchy accompaniment.
A simple purée makes an irresistible accompaniment to scallop, and a dice of caramelised Jerusalem artichoke raises a simple risotto to a new level – try it.
Now you see why I am so passionate about raising awareness of probably the most underrated of all winter vegetables!
Here are a few recipes to whet your appetite.
Roast Jerusalem Artichoke, Avocado and Hazelnut Salad
Everyone loved this delicious combination – a recent addition to our repertoire. The winter salad is particularly good with goose, duck, pheasant or as a starter.
Serves 4-6
450g Jerusalem artichokes, well-scrubbed.
2 tbsp sunflower or extra virgin olive oil
salt and freshly ground pepper
Avocado and Roast Hazelnut Salsa
1 ripe avocado, halved, stone removed, peeled and diced into neat scant 1cm dice
3 tbsp of hazelnuts, roasted, skinned and coarsely chopped
3 tbsp of hazelnut or olive oil
1 tbsp of chopped flat parsley
Maldon sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
Garnish
sprigs of flat parsley
Preheat the oven to 200°C/Gas Mark 6.
Leave the artichokes whole or cut in half lengthways, if large. Toss the Jerusalem artichokes with the oil. Season well with salt. Bake in a shallow gratin dish or roasting tin for 20 to 30 minutes until soft and caramelized at the edges. Test with the tip of a knife – they should be mostly tender but offer some resistance. Season with pepper and serve.
Meanwhile, make the avocado and roast hazelnut salsa.
Mix the ingredients for the avocado and hazelnut garnish. Taste and correct seasoning. This mixture will sit quite happily in your fridge for an hour as the oil coating the avocado will prevent it from discolouring.
To Serve
When the artichokes are cooked, allow to cool, sprinkle with avocado and hazelnut salsa.
Toss gently, taste and tweak the seasoning if necessary.
Scatter with sprigs of flat parsley.
Jerusalem Artichoke Crisps
We serve these delicious crisps on warm salads, as a garnish for Roast pheasant or Guinea fowl and as a topping for Parsnip or root vegetable soup. Delicious crisps may be made from other vegetables apart from the much loved potato. Celeriac, beetroot, leek and even carrots are also good. Careful not to have the oil too hot or the crisps will quickly turn and be bitter.
Serves 6-8
3-4 Jerusalem artichokes
sunflower oil
salt
Heat good quality oil in a deep fryer to 150°C.
Scrub the Jerusalem artichokes well and peel if necessary. Slice in wafer thin rounds. Allow to dry out a little on kitchen paper.
Drop a few at a time into the hot oil, they colour and crisp up very quickly. Drain on kitchen paper and sprinkle lightly with salt.
Pan-grilled Scallops with Jerusalem Artichoke Purée and Extra Virgin Olive Oil
Serves 8
8 super fresh scallops
sea salt
Jerusalem Artichoke Purée
450g Jerusalem artichokes (weighed after peeling)
450g potatoes, scrubbed clean
4 tbsp cream
25g butter
salt and freshly ground black pepper (optional)
To Serve
extra virgin olive oil
flakes of sea salt
little sprigs of chervil
First make the artichoke purée.
Cook the artichokes and potatoes separately in boiling salted water until tender and completely cooked through. Peel the potatoes immediately and place them with the hot artichokes in a food processor. Add the cream and butter and season with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Blend until a silky consistency is achieved. Taste and correct seasoning.
To serve, reheat the artichoke purée if necessary. Heat the pan on a high heat, dry the scallops well, drizzle with extra virgin olive oil and season with a little salt. Pan-grill for a few minutes on both sides, put a generous tablespoon of artichoke purée on each small plate, top each one with a pan-grilled scallop, drizzle with extra virgin and sprinkle each plate with a few flakes of sea salt.
Top with a little sprig of chervil.