This week an update from the London food scene.
I was over for a wedding lunch at Corrigan’s in Grosvenor Street, and chic, delicious and wonderfully convivial it was too. I particularly loved the new seasons’ English asparagus swimming in Nori seaweed butter. They used Yakisushinori roasted Nori seaweed and added a bunch of watercress as a garnish – delicious!
And guess what, I managed to get a table at the Yellow Bittern in Caledonian Road. Felt like winning the Lotto, it’s owned and run by Hugh Corcoran from Belfast and his lovely daughter Frances. Open just for lunch Monday – Friday and closed at the weekend. Two sittings, one at 12pm and the other at 2pm – just twenty people. The food is simple, comforting and delicious. The super fresh ingredients are laid out on the worktop in the tiny kitchen at the end of the restaurant. Hugh and his assistant do their magic on two stove tops and a tiny oven. We ordered radishes with butter and flaky sea salt, brown crab with mayonnaise and freshly baked soda bread. The flavour of the mixed brown and white crab meat reminded me of the flavours of early Ballymaloe. Myrtle always served both brown and white crab meat to encourage the fishermen to catch and sell whole crabs rather than just claws. Many other good things including a succulent beef pie and one of the best crème brûlée I’ve ever tasted. I was so delighted when he showed me his copy of his favourite cookbook Forgotten Skills, held together with Sellotape!
Always fun to catch up with Ballymaloe Cookery School alumni when I’m travelling. George Williams and Beth O’Brien have recently opened the Fat Badger over Canteen on Portobello Road, a super cool bar with live music and a restaurant with an open kitchen on top. It was really rocking, once again a delicious dinner. I particularly loved the intense nettle soup and a dotey little individual soda bread with good butter and a custard tart extraordinaire – Bravo to all again. A tough place to bag a table but definitely worth a try (tell them you read about it in The Examiner!)
So proud of ‘our babies’, next stop Stevie Parle’s Town on Drury Lane. This is a much larger space designed by North End Design. It was absolutely throbbing with enthusiastic diners on its second night. Stevie offered me many tastes from his super creative menu, I particularly loved the deliciously fresh winter tomatoes with cod crudo and tomato water. He’s been experimenting with lots of heritage citrus from Todolli Farm in Spain’s Valencia which provided little bursts of tart flavour.
The Wine-Cured wildfarmed beef with candied walnuts and cheese whizz was another intriguing combination, all the more interesting because the cheese came from his brother, Mike Parle who hand makes several artisan cheeses in The Lost Valley Dairy and Creamery in Inchigeelagh in Co. Cork. He and his partner sell from his stall at the Skibbereen Farmers’ Market every Saturday.
Add these to your London list plus a sweet little place in Hampstead called La Cage Imaginaire, where I had a lovely leisurely lunch with my dear friend of many years Claudia Roden, author of the Middle Eastern cookbook and many others and who introduced us all to hummus et al in the 1990’s.
Devotees will be so happy to hear that Claudia’s now in her late eighties is working on yet another book – her twenty-second…what an icon!
The Cage Imaginaire is the perfect
place for a catch up. Cooking is done from scratch and no throbbing music so we
could hear each other rather than having to lip read.
Claudia Roden’s Hummus Bi Tahina
Hummus bi Tahina with its rich earthy taste has got quite a cult following originally. Strange to the palate on first encounter it soon becomes addictive. Brilliant as a starter served as a dip with pitta bread. It is also delicious as part of a mezze, with kebabs or as a salad with a main dish. Terrific for school lunches and so easy to make. This recipe is from Claudia’s Middle Eastern Food first published in 1968 by Thomas Nelson.
Serves 4-8 (depending on how it is served)
Ingredients
110-175g cooked chickpeas (see below) or use tinned for meals in minutes
freshly squeezed juice of 2-3 lemons, or to taste
2-3 cloves garlic, crushed
salt
150ml tahini paste (available from health food shops)
½ – 1 tsp ground cumin seed
Garnish
1 tbsp olive oil
1 tsp paprika
1 tbsp parsley, finely chopped
a few cooked chickpeas
Accompaniment
pitta bread or any crusty white bread
Method
Cover and soak the dried chickpeas overnight in lots of cold water.
Drain the chickpeas, cover with fresh water. Add a good pinch of bicarbonate of soda, bring to the boil and cook until tender, this can take anything from 30-60 minutes. Drain and reserve the cooking liquid. Remove any loose skins and keep a few whole ones aside for garnish.
Whizz up the remainder in an electric mixer or blender or food processor with the lemon juice and a little cooking water, if necessary, add the crushed garlic, tahini paste, cumin and salt to taste. Blend to a soft creamy paste, add more cooking water if necessary. Taste and continue to add lemon juice and salt until you are happy with the flavour – the texture should be soft and silky. Pour the creamy mixture into a serving dish, mix the paprika with a little extra virgin olive oil, dribble over the surface, do the same with the chopped parsley. Sprinkle with a few cooked chickpeas. Serve as a
dip with pitta bread or as an accompaniment to kebabs.
Pitta Crisps
Ingredients
3 mini pita breads (about 9cm in diameter), halved crosswise
4 tsp extra virgin olive oil
1 tsp freshly ground cumin
½ tsp salt
Method
Preheat the oven to 200ºC/Gas Mark 6.
Cut pita into triangles. Brush evenly with olive oil, sprinkle with cumin and salt. Spread pita strips in a single layer on a baking tray and bake in the middle of the oven for 3 minutes or until crisp and golden. Serve immediately to scoop up the hummus.
Stevie Parle’s Cod Crudo with Tomato Water and Basil Oil
Clean, vivid and elegant – this crudo balances the sweetness of tomato, fragrant basil oil, and bright citrus over delicate slices of cured cod. You need to make this with whatever are the best tomatoes you can find — at the moment we’re using a winter variety from Sardinia called Marinda, though we’ve planted a whole tunnel of different tomatoes for the summer. We weigh liquids on a normal digital scale – it’s much easier and more consistent than using spoons or jugs. If you’re eating wild fish raw, it’s advisable to freeze it first to kill any potential parasites.
Serves 4
Method
For the cod cure:
300g caster sugar
600g coarse sea salt
zest of 1 lemon
zest of 1 orange
For the tomato water (yields 400g):
400g Marinda tomatoes
400g vine tomatoes
20g fresh basil
4g fish sauce (we use colatura di alici)
16g sea salt flakes
16g sherry vinegar
16g white wine vinegar
10g caster sugar
4g black peppercorns
For the basil oil (yields more than needed):
228g fresh basil leaves
900g sunflower oil
To serve
1-2 Marinda tomatoes, sliced as thinly as possible with a
sharp knife
180g cured cod (sliced)
100g tomato water
basil oil, to drizzle
a few segments of pomelo or grapefruit (optional)
Method
Cure the cod.
Blitz the sugar, salt, and citrus zests in a food processor. Coat a cod loin evenly in the cure and refrigerate for 4 hours. Rinse well, pat dry, and chill. Slice thinly just before serving.
Make the tomato water.
Roughly chop the tomatoes and combine with the remaining ingredients. Marinate for 20 minutes. Blend everything, then strain through muslin cloth overnight without pressing.
Make the basil oil.
Blend the basil and sunflower oil in a Thermomix at 90°C for 9 minutes (alternatively, heat in a saucepan for a couple of minutes and use a blender to emulsify). Strain through muslin cloth and chill.
To plate
Lay a few very thin slices of Marinda tomato on the base of each chilled plate. Arrange slices of cured cod on top. Spoon over around 25g of tomato water per portion. Finish with basil oil and citrus segments if using.
Fat Badger’s Brown Sugar Custard Tart
Thank you to Beth O’Brien, pastry chef extraordinaire for sharing this delicious recipe, best custard tart I’ve ever tasted…
Ingredients
Pastry
80g butter
80g icing sugar
1 egg
240g plain flour
35g ground almonds
pinch of salt
1 egg, to egg wash
Custard
240g milk
900g cream
200g dark brown sugar
pinch of salt
12 egg yolks
caster sugar, Maldon sea salt and crème fraîche, to finish
Method
For the pastry, cream the butter and sugar together in the bowl of a stand mixer with the paddle attachment for 2 minutes until combined but not aerated. Add the egg and mix well, then add the flour, almonds and salt and mix to combine. Wrap and chill in the refrigerator for at least an hour.
Remove the pastry from the refrigerator. Roll out to an even disc around 3mm thick. Line a deep tart tin (25cm in size), pushing the pastry into the corners and pushing against the edges of the tin. Chill for at least 30 minutes while you preheat the oven to 180°C/Gas Mark 4. Trim the edges and line the tart with baking paper and fill with baking beans. Bake in the preheated oven for 20 minutes, then remove the baking beans, brush generously with egg wash and bake for a further 7 minutes.
For the custard, heat the milk and cream to just about a simmer while you combine the sugar, salt and egg yolks in a bowl. Pour half the hot milk and cream over the yolks, whisk to combine, then pour this mixture back into the pot and whisk thoroughly.
Reduce the oven temperature to 155°C/Gas Mark 3.
Pour the custard into the blind baked tin and return to the oven. Bake for 55-60 minutes, until there is only a very slight wobble in the centre when baked. Chill fully before slicing.
To serve, sprinkle a generous amount of caster sugar on top of each slice and use a blowtorch to brûlée. Put a pinch of flaky salt on top and serve with crème fraîche.