ArchiveDecember 2025

Well, that’s Christmas over and done with for another year and what a jolly time it was. Lots of fun and yumminess and many reasons to give thanks for many, many blessings.
Bet you can’t face another festive meal, something small, simple and super tasty would be welcome so have a root through your fridge – I’ve got lots of little bits of this and that to put together in bizarre combinations but what I’m really craving is a plump melted toastie. Should I add in some of that leftover Cranberry Sauce – well maybe not…! But a few slices of glazed streaky bacon would definitely perk it up with a layer of pickled cucumber or onion marmalade. I do lots of riffs on toasties, add some chilli and spices for an Indian twist. Slather the cheese with Ancho and Guajillo chilli paste for a Mexican flavour. Or try an apricot jam, goat cheese, and thyme leaf toastie or halloumi, honey and rose harissa – a bit ‘off piste’ but a delicious combination nonetheless.
There’s a wedge of aged Cheddar in there too, so immediately I get a deep longing for a pot of Ballymaloe cheese fondue, I’d almost forgotten about it, I haven’t had it for ages. A recipe Myrtle Allen invented years ago to use Irish Cheddar cheese instead of Gruyère and Emmental. It was a regular on the Ballymaloe menu and is one of the most memorable, delicious and comforting cheese dishes to tuck into, particularly after Christmas. A pot of unctuous melting cheese in the centre of the table, some long handled fondue forks and a basket of cubes of crispy bread to scoop it up. A simple heartwarming supper and virtually no washing up…
We always used to joke that if you dropped your bread into the fondue, you’d have to kiss the person on your right so just in case make sure to seat yourselves cunningly at the table. Many Ballymaloe guests remember it wistfully, I seem to remember that it was a Friday night special.
Just three recipes in my column each week so the third has to be a gooey Mac and Cheese, but I also want to tell you about one of my favourite cheese snacks. A recipe given to me years ago by lovely Elizabeth Neave who worked at the Shanagarry Pottery.  Every time I enjoy it, I remember her, almost all my recipes have a story…
Mix 110g grated cheese, can be a mixture of any bits or just Cheddar. Stir it into a beaten egg, season generously with salt of fresh ground pepper and maybe a touch of mustard. Slather a slice of good white bread on one side with butter and spread the cheese mixture on the other side. Pop butter side down onto a baking tray and into a hot oven at 230°C/Gas Mark 8. When puffed and golden, approximately 10 minutes. Cut into fingers and enjoy immediately, you can’t imagine how delicious – treat yourself to a glass of dry white wine to celebrate, that’s my new year present to you.
Hope 2026 brings you much joy, happiness, contentment, and good health.

Cheese Toastie

Serves 1

A delicious cheese toastie depends on the sum of its parts, must be good bread, good butter, really tasty cheese – a Cheddar.

Ingredients

2 slices good pan loaf

butter

50-110g grated cheese, I love a mixture of grated aged Cheddar, maybe a little Gruyère and Parmesan

a little English mustard (I like to mix it from the dry mustard powder for a real punch!)

Method

Heat a dry pan on the stove/hob.

Butter both sides of the bread. Slather a little mustard on one slice (optional). Then spread an even layer of grated cheese out to the edges. Add some thinly sliced spring onion or leek on top. Season well. Press the second slice of bread onto the cheese. Lay butter side down onto the hot pan. Weigh it down and allow to cook on a medium heat for 3 or 4 minutes until deep golden, flip over and cook on the other side.

For extra deliciousness, although optional, remove from the pan, sprinkle some grated cheese onto the pan. Allow to melt and begin to turn golden, press the toastie down onto the cheese, run a slice underneath so it adheres to the toastie and wrap a little around the side. It’ll crisp up and add an extra special flavour.

Cut in half and serve immediately as the cheese oozes out…Enjoy

Ballymaloe Cheese Fondue

Cheese fondue is so retro but terrific fun.  Choose your seat carefully because if you drop the bread into the fondue, you must kiss the person on our right – this could be your big chance!

Myrtle Allen devised this Cheese Fondue recipe made from Irish Cheddar cheese. A huge favourite at Ballymaloe.  Even though it’s a meal in itself it can be made in minutes and is loved by adults and children alike. A fondue set is obviously an advantage but not totally essential.

Serves 2 – perfect for a romantic supper (Valentine’s Day is coming up too!

Ingredients

2 tbsp dry white wine

2 small cloves of garlic, crushed

2 tsp Ballymaloe Tomato Relish or any tomato chutney

2 tsp freshly chopped parsley

175g grated mature Cheddar cheese, there are lots to choose from – Hegarty’s, Knockanore, Mossfield Organic…but why not choose Coolattin or Mount Leinster made by Tom Burgess near Tullow in Co. Carlow

To Serve

crusty white bread

Method

Put the white wine and the rest of the ingredients into a fondue pot or small saucepan and stir. Just before serving, put over a low heat until the cheese melts and begins to bubble – a couple of minutes. Put the pot over the fondue stove and serve immediately.  Provide each guest with fresh bread or a rustic baguette crisped up in a hot oven.  They will also need a fondue fork and an ordinary fork.

Everyone’s Favourite Mac and Cheese

Mac and cheese is a bit like apple crumble, simple fare but everyone loves it, plus you can add lots of tasty bits to change it up. Macaroni cheese was and still is one of my children’s favourite supper dishes. I often add some

cubes of cooked bacon or ham to the sauce.

Serves 6

Ingredients

225g macaroni or ditalini

50g butter

150g onion, finely chopped

50g plain flour

850ml-1 litre boiling whole milk

¼ tsp Dijon or English mustard

1 tbsp chopped flat-leaf parsley (optional)

225g freshly grated mature Cheddar cheese or a mix of Cheddar, Gruyère and Parmesan

25g freshly grated Cheddar and/or Parmesan cheese, for sprinkling on top (optional)

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

Method

Bring 3.4 litres water to the boil in a large saucepan and add 2 teaspoons of salt. Sprinkle in the macaroni and stir to make sure it doesn’t stick together. Cook according to the packet instructions until just

soft. Drain well.

Meanwhile, melt the butter over a gentle heat, add the chopped onion, stir to coat, cover and sweat over a gentle heat for 6-8 minutes. Add the flour and cook over a medium heat, stirring occasionally, for 1-2 minutes. Remove from the heat. Whisk the milk in gradually, season well with salt and pepper, then return to the boil, stirring constantly. Add the mustard, parsley, if using, and cheese. Add the well-drained macaroni and return to the boil. Season to taste and serve immediately.

Alternatively, turn into a 1.2 litre pie dish and sprinkle the extra grated cheese over the top. Bake at 180°C/Gas Mark 4 for 15-20 minutes.

GOOD THINGS WITH MAC & CHEESE

* Mac & Cheese Fritters

Heat olive oil in a deep-fat fryer at 180°C (350°F) or a deep saucepan with 5-7.5cm depth of oil. Roll the leftover mac and cheese into ping-pong-sized balls. Roll in seasoned flour, beaten eggs and fresh white or panko crumbs to coat. Fry for 4-5 minutes until crisp on the outside and melting in the interior. Remove with a slotted spoon, drain on kitchen paper and toss in freshly grated Parmesan. Serve with spicy mayo made by mixing 110ml homemade mayonnaise with tsp of sriracha, 2 tsp of sambal oelek or harissa and lemon juice to taste. Alternatively, allow the baked mac and cheese to get cold in the gratin dish. Cut into fingers or squares, dip in seasoned flour, egg and breadcrumbs and shallow-fry in olive oil for 3-4 minutes until crisp and golden on both sides. Serve with a dipping sauce or with the spicy mayo.

* Smoked Salmon or Smoked Mackerel

Add 225g smoked salmon or smoked mackerel dice to the mac and cheese before serving.

* Mushrooms & Courgettes

Add 225g sliced sauteed mushrooms and 225g sliced courgettes cooked in olive oil with a little garlic and marjoram or basil to the cooked mac and cheese. Toss gently, turn into a hot serving dish and scatter

with grated cheese and serve or reheat later.

* Chorizo

Add 225g diced chorizo and lots of chopped flat-leaf parsley to the mac and cheese before baking.

You can’t imagine how many requests I get for a foolproof recipe for roast spuds, so I’m going to devote this entire column to my favourite potato dishes including crisp, shaggy roasties to enjoy over Christmas and beyond.

I LOVE potatoes. I could write a whole book of delicious potato recipes. For me, it’s the hero of the vegetable world. I wince every time I hear it referred to as the humble spud! Perhaps it’s taken for granted just because it’s so inexpensive, super versatile and readily available…I’ll include my favourite recipe for roasties with lots of riffs, but the secret, as ever, is to source really terrific potatoes with a high starch content. My favourites are Golden Wonders but Maris Piper, King Edward and Dutch Creams are also known for their floury texture and crisp, shaggy crust. 

Choose unwashed potatoes, organic if possible. 

Scrub them under the cold tap, save the peels for potato peel crisps to nibble with Christmas drinks or sprinkle over salads. Par boil in well-salted water for 2-3 minutes and drain. The next, super important consideration…what fat or oil? For maximum flavour, avoid vegetable oil, use extra virgin olive oil or better still, duck, goose, turkey, chicken, pork or beef fat. The difference in flavour will be phenomenal, (save fats in little containers in the fridge during the year, they keep for months).

I also love squashed roasties – drizzle the roasting pan with one of the above. I often use extra virgin olive oil for this, an irresistible way to use leftover boiled potatoes – my family argue vociferously over them!

My last one, a creamy gratin with or without cheese is a ‘must’ to have in your fridge or freezer to pop into the oven over Christmas (check out the potato and mushroom gratin in my Examiner column of 11^th October). Delicious with cold meats on St. Stephen’s Day, a well-loved spontaneous accompaniment to a meal at any time over the holiday season.

The secret of fluffy mash is another frequently asked question. Here again, the potato variety is super important, seek out a starchy rather than waxy potato, e.g., King Edward, Golden Wonder, Maris Piper, Yukon Gold or Désirée. 

Boil in their jackets in well-salted water for max flavour. Peel while hot and beat well in a food mixer, add boiling milk, loads of butter, a good dollop of cream and lots of seasoning. 

The latest edition to my potato recipe repertoire is this hybrid Hasselback gratin. Starchy Russet potatoes are best. Could be a comforting dish on its own or a side with forgotten treasures from your fridge!

Always keep leftover boiled potatoes, brilliant for sauté potatoes or arrange thick slices on a well-oiled roasting tin. Season well, pop into a hot oven, flip over when golden, scatter generously with grated cheese and continue to cook until melty and crusty at the edges. You could add a few crispy bacon lardons, a sprinkling of chilli flakes…Scatter some freshly chopped fresh herbs over the top just before you serve, a delicious one-pan supper.

Best Roasties

This is my ‘go to’ recipe for crispy, shaggy roasties. Cut into halves or quarters if you’re after a crisper surface. If you fancy, scatter with fresh thyme leaves or freshly chopped rosemary, halfway through cooking.

Ingredients

8 potatoes, unwashed Golden Wonders or Kerr’s Pinks

Method

Choose medium to large potatoes of even size. Scrub and peel. Put into a saucepan, cover with cold salted water and bring to the boil just for 1 or 2 minutes. Drain thoroughly. Lightly scratch the surface with a fork and season with salt.

Preheat the oven to 230°C/Gas Mark 8.

Put the potatoes into smoking hot fat or olive oil. Baste occasionally. Roast until soft in the hot oven for 30-45 minutes depending on the size. Drain well on kitchen paper. Serve immediately.

Alternatively, put the potatoes into smoking hot fat in the same tin as the meat, 40-45 minutes before the meat is fully cooked and baste well. Cook until soft. (Baste the potatoes when you baste the meat and turn them over after 25 minutes). Drain on kitchen paper and serve immediately.

Fluffy Mashed Potatoes

Everyone loves a bowl of fluffy mash – a perfect side for so many dishes but I’ll happily tuck into a bowl with a lump of butter melting into the centre – what could be more comforting…

Serves 4

900g unpeeled potatoes, preferably Golden Wonders or Kerr’s Pinks

300ml creamy milk

1-2 egg whites or 1 whole egg and 1 egg white

25-50g butter

2 tbsp freshly chopped herbs e.g. parsley, chives, thyme, lemon balm

Scrub the potatoes well. Put them into a saucepan of cold water, add a good pinch of salt and bring to the boil. When the potatoes are about half cooked, 15 minutes approx. for ‘old’ potatoes, strain off two-thirds of the water, replace the lid on the saucepan, put on to a gentle heat and allow the potatoes to steam until they are cooked. Peel immediately by just pulling off the skins, so you have as little waste as possible, mash while hot (see below). (If you have a large quantity, put the potatoes into the bowl of a food mixer and beat with the spade).

While the potatoes are being peeled, bring about 300ml of milk to the boil (or better still, use half milk, half cream). Beat the egg whites into the hot mashed potatoes and add enough boiling creamy milk to mix to a soft light consistency suitable for piping, add the herbs and then beat in the butter, the amount depending on how rich you like your potatoes. Taste and season with salt and freshly ground pepper.

Note: If the potatoes are not peeled and mashed while hot and if the boiling milk is not added immediately, the potato will be lumpy and gluey.

Add chopped scallions for champ, cooked kale or cabbage for colcannon, peas and parsley for Ulster Champ…

Cheesy Hasselback Potato Gratin

Inspired by a recipe by J. Kenji López-Alt in The New York Times. The main difference here is placing the well-seasoned sliced potatoes in the casserole dish vertically. Arrange them on their edges rather than laying them flat. This will result in crisp ridges on top. A mandoline or food processor speeds up the process. Pack the potatoes tightly to keep them standing upright for the Hasselback effect.

Serves 6

Ingredients

75g finely grated Gruyère or Comté cheese

50g finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

450ml cream

2 medium cloves garlic, crushed

2 tsp fresh thyme leaves, roughly chopped

lots of salt and freshly ground black pepper

1.5 – 1.75kg russet potatoes, peeled and sliced 3mm thick on a mandoline slicer (12-14 medium potatoes approx.)

10g butter for greasing the casserole dish

Method

Preheat the oven to 200°C/Gas Mark 6.

Combine the cheeses in a large bowl. Keep 40g of the grated cheese aside for later. Add the cream, garlic and thyme to the cheese mixture. Season generously with salt and freshly ground pepper. Add the potato slices and toss with your hands until every slice is coated with the cream mixture. Making sure to separate any slices that are sticking together to get the cream mixture in between them.

Grease a casserole dish (20.5cm x 20.5cm and 5cm depth) with butter.

Pick up a handful of potatoes, organise them into a neat stack, and lay them in the casserole dish with their edges aligned vertically. Continue placing potatoes in the dish, working around the perimeter and into the centre until all the potatoes have been added. The potatoes should be very tightly packed. Add an additional potato if necessary.

Pour the excess cream/cheese mixture evenly over the potatoes until the mixture comes halfway up the sides of the casserole. You may not need all the liquid, but I like it nice and juicy.

Cover the dish tightly with damp parchment paper. Transfer to the oven and cook for 30 minutes on the middle shelf of the oven. Remove the parchment paper and continue to bake until the top is pale golden brown, about 30 minutes. Sprinkle with the remaining cheese and return to the oven. Cook until rich golden brown and crisp on top and around the edges, 30-40 minutes approx. Remove from the oven, allow to rest for a few minutes and serve.

Everyday life whizzes by so fast, don’t know about you but mine is full of good resolutions, many I don’t manage to achieve. As I get older, many of my best intentions seem to be vague plans to contact and get together with an old friend or friends I haven’t seen for ages.

For me, the days around Christmas are perfect for informal parties around the table or tables, sometimes guests spill into another room. It’s also the time of year when we have a few free days but everyone else is on holidays too so one has less help – a catch 22…Nonetheless, the most important thing is to actually get together, share a meal and to have a jolly catch up.

Doesn’t have to be super complicated and exotic, multi course meal. Let’s face it, the mere mention of the work Christmas makes many feel full!

I love a walk on a bright, blustery day and a picnic – I’m still a little ‘bokety’ but 3 months after my knee operation, I’m increasingly agile but not quite ready for a jaunt up the Comeraghs just yet!

Afternoon tea around the fire is an easy option, I’ve got a myriad of irresistible tray bakes or what are also called sheet pan recipes but today I’m concentrating on easy options to feed a crowd and those are mostly one pot, pan or roasting tin dishes. I’ve got masses of recipes for those both sweet and savoury.

But first, let me mention a soup supper – make a big pot (could be weeks ahead) of chunky vegetable soup, make lots so everyone can tuck into several bowls with several thick slices of good breads. Could be followed by a tempting selection of Irish farmhouse cheese or an Irish charcuterie board – think Gubbeen, Lúnasa Farm, Broughgammon, Sheridan’s Cheesemongers…

How about this Treacle Tart? It comes from the King Cookbook published by Flatiron Books who share their favourite recipes from the iconic and much loved restaurant on the corner of King St. in Manhattan. It’s owned and run by Ballymaloe Cookery School alumni Clare de Boer and Jess Shadbolt and their business partner Annie Shi. The food is ‘delicious’ not my words, but The New York Times so add it to your New York list.

Many other easy and delicious suggestions for easy ‘feed a crowd’ recipes can be found in my One Pot Feeds All cookbook published by Kyle Books – many people’s go to. I love to see dog eared copies on kitchen shelves…but one of my favourite Christmas picks is Eunice Powers My Irish Kitchen Table published by Gill Books, filled with Eunice’s infectious warmth and the delicious recipes that she has become justly famous for in the many events she caters for. I have to say how delighted I am when I hear that Eunice and her team are catering at an event – one can rest assured that the food and ambiance will be memorable!

I share her Chicken, Leek and Mushroom Casserole in White Wine Cream, a firm favourite with her clients for parties and buffets.

It’s a super easy – one roasting dish, easy to assemble and serve, so you too can enjoy the party. Just add a crunchy salad of winter leaves.

Enjoy the festive season and don’t forget a hug for the cook!

Festive Roast Fish three ways

An inspired way to cook whole fillets of fish, I’ve given three separate sauce suggestions here but even a simple dill butter makes roast fish into a feast. Needless to say, other fish, such as haddock, hake, ling, cod or pollock can be cooked in exactly the same way. For an Asian or Turkish twist, see the tempting variation below.

Serves about 20

Ingredients

1 whole trout or wild salmon

butter or extra virgin oil, about 25g/25ml

flaky sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

Tomato and Dill Topping

4–8 tbsp chopped dill

8-10 ripe cherry tomatoes, deseeded and diced, sprinkled with a little flaky sea salt, freshly ground black pepper and sugar

110–225g extra virgin olive oil

Method

Preheat the oven to 250°C/Gas Mark 9.  

Descale the trout or salmon, fillet and remove the pin bones. For the topping, mix the dill and diced seasoned tomato together with the extra virgin olive oil.

Line a baking tray with parchment paper. Put the fillets of fish on top. Season with salt and pepper. Spoon the dill and tomato oil over the surface. Roast for 8-10 minutes or until cooked and tender.

Serve in the tray or transfer the fish onto one or two hot serving dishes. Sprinkle with a little fresh dill and dill flowers. Serve immediately with a salad of organic green leaves.

Variations

Roast Salmon with Teriyaki Sauce

To make the teriyaki sauce, put 100ml light or dark soy sauce, 100ml dry white wine, 2 large, thinly sliced garlic cloves, a 4cm piece of fresh ginger, peeled and thinly sliced, 2 tbsp of wholegrain mustard and 2 tbsp of soft brown sugar into a stainless-steel saucepan. Bring to the boil and simmer for 3-4 minutes. (Alternatively, spoon over the fish before putting it in the oven.) Roast the fish as above. Brush the fish generously with the teriyaki sauce, sprinkle with fresh coriander and serve.

Roast Salmon with Pul Biber

Prepare the salmon as above, drizzle with extra virgin olive oil. Sprinkle with pul biber and flaky sea salt. Roast as above. Serve with a good green salad.

Chicken, Leek and Mushroom Casserole in White Wine Cream

Recipe from My Irish Kitchen Table by Eunice Power published by Gill Books

This dish is a firm favourite with my lovely clients for parties and buffets or as bowl food. It’s a real crowd-pleaser. If you prefer a thicker sauce, you can add a heaped teaspoon of flour to the leek and mushroom before adding the stock and wine reduction.

Serves 6

Ingredients

200ml chicken stock

200ml white wine

6 chicken fillets

30ml olive oil

30g butter

1 leek, outer leaves and tops removed, washed thoroughly and sliced

250g mixed mushrooms (or flat-cap mushrooms), sliced

2 cloves of garlic, finely chopped

240ml cream

small bunch of fresh tarragon, leaves stripped and finely chopped (or 1 scant tsp dried tarragon)

sea salt and black pepper

Method

Preheat the oven to 180°C fan/Gas Mark 4.

Place the chicken stock and white wine in a pan and simmer until reduced by half.

Season the chicken fillets with salt and pepper. In a large non-stick frying pan, heat half the olive oil over a medium heat. Pan-fry the chicken fillets for a few minutes on each side, until they’re golden and have a nice colour. You may need to do this in batches. Transfer the chicken to a roasting tin, add a tablespoon of the reduced wine and stock and 3 tablespoons of water. Place the tin in the oven and roast for 15 minutes. Once cooked, allow the chicken to cool.

Meanwhile, in a wide-based saucepan, heat the remaining olive oil and butter over a medium heat. Add the sliced leek and cook for 3-4 minutes, stirring occasionally. Then add the mushroom and garlic, cooking for another 5 minutes. Pour in the reduced wine and stock and allow it to simmer.

Next, pour the cream into a small saucepan, bring it back to a boil, then reduce the heat and simmer until it has reduced by almost half.

Once the chicken has cooled, tear it into bite-sized pieces and add it to the leek and mushroom mixture. Stir in the reduced cream and the chopped tarragon. Adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper to taste.

Note

If you are preparing ahead of time, add the cream and tarragon only when you’re ready to serve. This dish is best served with creamy mashed potatoes.

Treacle Tart

Recipe from the King Cookbook published by Flatiron Books.

This tart is made with stale white breadcrumbs and treacle. It became a post-war favourite due to its humble cupboard-friendly ingredients.

This is a particularly rich and delicious version, serve in small slices with lots of softly whipped cream.

Serves 8-10

Ingredients

1 x 25cm tart shell prepared with short-crust pastry and chilled (see recipe)

Filling

145g unsalted butter

900g Lyle’s Golden Syrup

100g heavy (whipping) cream

salt

2 lemons

3 large eggs

150g fine breadcrumbs

To serve

cold cream

Method

Preheat the oven to 180°C/Gas Mark 4.

Prick the tart shell all over the bottom with a fork. Set the pan on a baking sheet and bake in the oven until the shell is golden brown, about 25 minutes. Remove from the oven and let cool completely, at least 35 minutes.

To make the filling, brown the butter by heating it in a medium pot over a medium-low heat until it smells nutty and is a rich golden brown, 8 minutes. Do not let the butter burn! Turn off the heat.

Stir in the golden syrup, heavy cream and 2 teaspoons of salt into the browned butter and warm over medium heat, whisking, until the mixture emulsifies, 2-3 minutes. Remove from the heat and allow to cool slightly, about 4 minutes, then finely zest the lemons directly into the pot. Stir to combine and cool the syrup until just warm to the touch, about 30 minutes.

Meanwhile, juice the zested lemons, strain the juice, and set aside.

When the syrup has partially cooled, whisk the eggs together in a large bowl. Whisk in a small amount of the warm syrup to temper the mixture so the eggs don’t curdle, then add the remaining syrup a little bit at a time. Whisk in the lemon juice and breadcrumbs.

Pour the filling into the cooled tart shell and bake in the oven until golden brown, about 45 minutes. As the tart bakes, rotate the tin every 15 minutes so it cooks evenly.

Remove the tart from the oven and allow it to cool on a rack. Once cool enough to handle, but still warm enough that any leaked treacle is pliable, gently pop the tart of the tin’s ring.

Slice the tart and serve with cold cream.

Short-Crust Pastry

Our go-to short-crust pastry. This yields enough pastry for two tart shells. You can use one right away and the other will keep wrapped in the fridge for a couple of days or freezes very well.

Makes 2 x 30.5cm tart shells

Ingredients

350g plain white flour

100g granulated sugar

salt

225g unsalted butter, cut into 2.5cm cubes and chilled

3 large egg yolks

Method

Combine the flour, sugar and a pinch of salt in a food processor and pulse for a few seconds to combine. Add the cubed butter and pulse repeatedly, cutting the pieces into the flour until irregular pea-sized bits form, about 1 minute.

One at a time, add the egg yolks to the processor, blitzing each one in before adding the next. Stop blitzing once a dry, crumbly dough that’s mostly uniform comes together. Turn the dough out onto a sheet of parchment paper, divide it in half, and pat each half into a log. Wrap each one in parchment paper and chill in the fridge until firm, at least 30 minutes.

Once the dough is firm, grate one log directly into a 25cm tart shell, using the largest holes of a box grater. Then, working from the edges in, press the dough together, forming a 5mm thick pastry shell. Pay extra attention to the corners, as they can typically build up and get too dense.

Chill the tart shell in the fridge until cold to the touch, about 20 minutes, before using. The prepared shell holds, covered, for a day in the fridge. Freeze the extra log if you’re not making a second tart – it will keep until infinity. When ready to use, thaw it in the fridge.

As I write, we’ve just had the first really hard frost of the year. The gardens look absolutely magical this morning but I’ve been anxiously watching the red berries on the holly trees… hoping against hope that the hungry birds won’t polish off all the berries before I get a chance to pick sprigs to decorate the mantelpiece or to pop behind pictures on the walls, super old-fashioned I know but I really, really love holly and of course a real Christmas tree.
I’d just begun to scribble out my Christmas list but now I’m off to fill the bird feeders instead, hoping to distract the blackbirds and thrushes from the red and yellow berries.
Christmas is all about memories but let’s keep it simple this year. The challenge is not to get totally exhausted while creating those magical memories for everyone else. I can’t help dwelling on how stressful the Christmas season is for already crazy busy and overburdened parents.
For me and probably every one of us, it’s all about planning and lists and the joy of crossing off one job at a time.
It’s certainly much more fun and a heck of a lot less work when everyone gets involved, when each and every member of the family cheerfully takes responsibility for a different element of the festive season. Even the ‘littles’ can and usually love to contribute making decorations, illustrating place cards, practising singing carols!
This week I’m mulling over possible starters for the Christmas feast. Has to be something light, lovely, tantalisingly fresh and easy to serve. Our top pic are some delicious briny oysters, light and refreshing, not everyone’s choice I know but I love them on adorned but others will enjoy a spoonful of dressing on top. How about oysters with nam jim and crispy onions?
It can be prepared ahead and added quickly just as you serve.
Tiny pots of homemade smoked mackerel or chicken liver pâté with crostini or slivers of hot toast are an easy and delicious option – keep the helpings really small and add a little cucumber pickle to the smoked mackerel pâté plate. I love a few Pedro Ximénez raisins over the top of the chicken liver pate. Macerate the raisins several days ahead so they are plump and deliciously boozy.
Grape, melon and mint cocktail is a long time family favourite and many of you, I know have adopted it as part of your Christmas tradition too.
There are lots and lots of suggestions in my Christmas book, but I have four more to tempt you including two that will also appeal to your vegetarian and/or vegan guests.
How about smoked trout or salmon, cucumber and fennel pickle and watercress or ring the changes with Gravlax with cucumber ribbon salad and mustard and dill mayo.
Or how about some of Frank Hederman’s warm smoked salmon. All smoked fish keep well in the fridge for other spontaneous meals over the festive season.
Citrus fruits are at their best at this time of the year, plump, juicy and sweet, so how about a pink grapefruit granita with pomegranate and shredded mint. Light and refreshing before you tuck into several slices of plump turkey or goose with all the trimmings.
I also love the option of a light little salad starter. I’m particularly fond of this kale, fennel and radish salad with a sprinkling of Parmesan or aged Coolea on top. It will also appeal to your vegetarian guests, omit the cheese for your vegan friends, it’ll still be fresh and delicious.
It’s also worth having a few soups in the fridge freezer and particularly fond of celeriac and hazelnut soup or Jerusalem artichoke with avocado and roasted cashew nuts.
Have fun and enjoy the festive season.

Gravlax with Cucumber Ribbon Salad and Mustard and Dill Mayonnaise

Smoked salmon can be substituted for the gravlax if desired.

Serves 8

Ingredients

225-350g gravlax (see recipe)

mustard and dill mayonnaise (see recipe)

Cucumber Ribbon Salad

1 cucumber

75-110g sugar

2 tsp salt

75ml cider vinegar

Garnish

sprigs of fresh dill

chive flowers

freshly cracked black pepper

Method

Two to three days before, prepare the gravlax. On the day of serving, make the pickled cucumber ribbons. Cut the cucumber in half, then cut into strips using a potato peeler. Put the cucumber into a deep bowl and add the sugar, salt and cider vinegar. Toss gently and leave for at least 30 minutes.

Meanwhile make the mustard and dill mayonnaise (see recipe).

To assemble, unwrap the gravlax, wipe off the dill mixture and cut down to the skin in thin slices. Arrange the drained cucumber strips and the gravlax in a haphazard way on each serving plate. Drizzle with mustard and dill mayonnaise. Garnish with tiny sprigs of dill and chive flowers. Finally, add a little freshly cracked black pepper over each serving.

Gravlax

This is a simply brilliant standby, miles more impressive than smoked salmon.  We use it for canapés, starter salads or as a main course for light summer lunch with pickled cucumber, deliciously runny semi-hard boiled eggs and salad leaves.

We are all addicted to this pickled salmon, which keeps for up to a week. Fresh dill is essential, but we also have fun with black peppercorns, coriander seeds, wholegrain mustard and vodka. Slices of beetroot on the salmon will dye the surface of the fish pink – festive and fun

Serves 12 – 16 as a starter

Ingredients

1 or 2 sides of trout or wild Irish salmon if you are lucky enough to get some (approx. weight 1.1kg each side)

4 tbsp finely chopped fresh dill, plus extra to garnish

2 heaped tbsp sea salt

2 heaped tbsp sugar

2 tsp freshly ground black pepper

Method

Fillet the trout or salmon and remove all the bones with tweezers. Mix the dill, salt, sugar and pepper together in a bowl.  Place the fish on a piece of parchment paper and scatter the mixture over the surface of the fish. Wrap tightly and refrigerate for a minimum of 24 hours, or better still, up to 2 days.

To serve, wipe the dill mixture off the salmon and slice thinly down onto the skin.

Mustard and Dill Mayonnaise

Great with gravlax. And yes, you do need all this mustard and sugar.

Makes 425ml

Ingredients

1 large egg yolk, preferably free-range and organic

2 tbsp French mustard

1 tbsp sugar

150ml groundnut or sunflower oil

1 tbsp white wine vinegar

1 tbsp finely chopped fresh dill

salt and white pepper

Method

Whisk the egg yolk with the mustard and sugar, drip in the oil drop by drop, whisking all the time, then add the vinegar and fresh dill and season with salt and white pepper.

Ruby Grapefruit, Pomegranate and Shredded Mint Salad

The pomegranate season used to be very short, but now they seem to be available virtually all year round. Some are much paler – look out for the variety called Wonderful.  A perfect starter before Christmas dinner – fresh, light and delicious.

Serves 4-6

Ingredients

2 ruby grapefruit

½ -1 tbsp fresh pomegranate seeds

3 tbsp of shredded fresh mint leaves

1-2 tbsp caster sugar

Garnish

fresh mint or lemon balm leaves

Method

Peel the skin from the grapefruit with a sharp knife so that all the pith is removed. Segment the grapefruit and put it into a bowl. Toss the pomegranate seeds into the bowl. Add the shredded mint leaves, sprinkle with sugar and taste for sweetness. Leave to macerate for at least 10 minutes.

Serve chilled in pretty white bowls or on plates.  Spoon a little juice over the salad. Garnish with fresh mint or lemon balm leaves.

Kale, Fennel, Radish and Parmesan Salad

So delicious and fresh tasting – the perfect salad before a festive meal. I also love to use an aged Coolea or Hegarty’s Cheddar cheese.

Serves 4 as a starter

Ingredients

110g fennel, thinly sliced

8 radishes (preferably French Breakfast), thinly sliced at a long angle

150g green curly kale, stalks included

3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil

1 tbsp lemon juice

4 tbsp grated Parmesan cheese

salt and freshly ground pepper

Keep the sliced fennel and radishes in iced water for at least 5 minutes. Drain well. Remove the stalks from the kale and shred the leaves very finely (discard the stalk).

Method

Put the kale, drained fennel and radishes into a bowl. Drizzle with the extra virgin olive oil and lemon juice. Grate on some Parmesan with a microplane. Season with salt and freshly ground pepper. Toss, taste and serve.

Christmas Salad of Pomegranates, Persimmons and Pecans

Such an exquisite combination – a delicious starter or a side salad with cold meats, best made close to enjoying !

Serves 8

Ingredients

Vinaigrette

2 tbsp Balsamic vinegar or Sherry vinegar

2 tsp Dijon mustard

2 shallots, peeled and finely chopped

salt and freshly ground pepper

5 tbsp extra virgin olive oil

3 ripe Fuyu persimmons (little firm persimmons)

3 ripe d’Anjou or other pears

1 lime, freshly squeezed

seeds from ½ pomegranate

a selection of frizzy lettuce, watercress and rocket leaves

1 lime freshly squeezed

75-110g fresh toasted pecans

Method

First make the vinaigrette.

Mix the Balsamic or sherry vinegar, mustard, shallots, salt and pepper.  Whisk in the olive oil until emulsified.

Slice the persimmons and pears into slices about 5mm thick.  Put into a medium bowl and sprinkle with freshly squeezed lime juice.  Add the pomegranate seeds.  Toss gently.

Wash and dry the greens, store in a clean towel in the fridge until ready to use.

Preheat the oven to 180°C/Gas Mark 4

Put the pecans onto a baking sheet in a moderate oven for 5-6 minutes, tossing gently from time to time.  Alternatively toast under a grill.

To Serve

Toss the greens in some of the vinaigrette and arrange on eight plates.  Toss the fruit mixture lightly in the remaining vinaigrette.  Arrange on top of the greens and sprinkle with the toasted pecans.  Serve immediately.