Chocolate, chocolate everywhere – Easter wouldn’t be quite the same without chocolate eggs and bunnies, hyper children and guilt ridden parents. Only the sweet-toothed Danes munch their way through more chocolate than the Irish who spent a cool €20 million on chocolate eggs last Easter, and manufacturers are optimistic that the figure will rise by 10% this year.
What is it about chocolate that makes us feel so guilty about every nibble.
Chocolate is perceived to be fattening. Cheap poor quality chocolate unquestionably is – sweet, cloying, packed with hydrogenated vegetable fats, nut oils and a host of artificial flavourings – all the disadvantages and none of the advantages in one chunky bar. This kind of product often contains as little as 5% cocoa and not a scrap of cocoa butter in sight.
What’s so special about cocoa butter? Cocoa butter occurs naturally in cocoa beans and has many desirable qualities, you can feel the difference as it melts in your mouth, but more importantly, some hydrogenated fats have been linked with serious health problems, whereas cocoa butter can actually lower blood cholesterol levels.
However, there’s absolutely no need for doom and gloom. The fact is, real chocolate is one of the most easily digested and nutritious foods. It contains a multitude of vitamins – Vitamins A, B, C, D & E, minerals – Calcium, Potassium, Sodium, Magnesium, Iron, Copper, Zinc, Chromium and Phosphorus, as well as complex alkaloids, all of which contribute to our well-being.
Good quality real chocolate is low in sugar and has a low glycaemic index – in other words one feels satisfied for longer.
Research has also clearly shown that there is a naturally occurring anti-depressant in chocolate – called Phenylethylamine (PEA) which increases the serotonin levels in the brain. Low levels of PEA are found in people who are depressed, chocolate affects the hormones in the brain in a similar way to morphine and so can help to relieve pain, even the smell has a calming effect on the brain.
Some homeopathic doctors use chocolate to temper feelings of hostility – especially when mothers feel frustration and anger toward their children. Real chocolate apparently has the effect of restoring the nurturing instinct and promotes a general feeling of wellbeing.
Another surprising piece of research found that cocoa possesses anti-bacterial properties which help to prevent tooth decay! Dentists agree that pure chocolate is significantly less harmful to the teeth than lollipops and boiled sweets.
So where can we find really good quality pure chocolate – what should we look out for?
Start by reading the label – look out for a high cocoa content 50-70% cocoa solids is good. Pure vanilla rather than vanillin (an artificial flavouring derived from pine trees), is also an indication of higher quality, but the variety of the cocoa bean is also crucial, Forastero is the bulk cocoa bean which is not considered to be particularly fine, Criollo is the original, best, and almost endangered cocoa bean. However, we’re now becoming a bit technical for those of us who just want gorgeous chocolate without hassle. Green & Black’s produce superb organic Fair Trade chocolate and chocolate ice-cream to die for. Also seek out Valrhona, L’Esme Callebaut, Menier, Lindt, Suchard, Leonidas, Lily O’Briens. Really good chocolate is now widely available so one can have a little of what we fancy without any of the guilt pangs.

Chocolate Ganache Sponge

Serves 8-9

3 free range eggs
8ozs/225g/1 cup castor sugar
3flozs/75ml water
4ozs/110g/ ½ cup white flour
1oz/25g cocoa
1 teaspoon baking powder

2 x 8 inch sandwich tins.
Preheat the oven to 190ºC/375ºF/Gas 5
Line the base of each of the tins with a round of greaseproof paper, then grease with melted butter and flour. Separate the eggs. Whisk the yolks and castor sugar for 2 minutes. Blend in water. Whisk until the mousse will hold a figure of 8, 10 minutes approx. Fold in sifted flour, cocoa and baking powder. Wisk the egg whites until they hold a stiff peak. Fold them in very gently. Divide the mixture between the greased sandwich tins. Bake in the oven for 30 minutes approx.
Cool on a wire rack. Meanwhile make the ganache.

Chocolate ganache

½ lb/225g dark chocolate
½ pint/300ml/ 1 ¼ cups cream

Put the cream in a heavy bottomed, preferably stainless steel saucepan and bring it almost to the boil. Remove from the heat and add the chopped chocolate. With a wooden spoon, stir the chocolate into the cream until it is completely melted. Transfer the chocolate cream to the bowl of a food mixer and allow it to cool to room temperature. Whisk until it is just stiff together with whipped cream or ganache. Spread ganache all over the top and sides of the cake. Pipe 8 or 9 rosettes on top of the cake and decorate with curls of chocolate.

Alan’s Chocolate Cake

This so-easy cake given to me by my nephew Alan has proven so popular we make it again and again here at the school.
Maybe the teenagers in the house would like to try it for Easter, decorated with fluffy yellow chicks and little speckled chocolate eggs.

6 oz (175g) flour
6 oz (175g) castor sugar
6 oz (175g) butter
3 eggs
1 ½ level teaspoons baking powder
1 ½ ozs (35g) cocoa
2 ½ tablespoons natural yoghurt

2 x 7 inch (18cm) sandwich tins, greased and floured.

Mix all ingredients together in Magimix till just blended together. Divide between the two tins.
Bake at 180ºC/350ºF/regulo 4 for 20 minutes. Cool on a wire rack.

Icing and Filling

2 bars Bourneville chocolate
1 bar Dairy milk chocolate
2 small or 1 large egg

Melt chocolate in a bowl over hot water and whisk in eggs. Fill and ice cake with this mixture. Decorate as desired.
Eat and tuck in.

Ballymaloe Chocolate Almond Gateau

Serves 8-10

One of several incredibly rich chocolate cakes, use the best chocolate you can buy, Valrhona, Menier, Suchard or Callebaut. This cake keeps incredibly well if you can resist. Enjoy a small slice with a cup of expresso.

4 ozs (110g) best quality dark chocolate
2 tablespoons Red Jamaica Rum
4 ozs (110g) butter, preferably unsalted
4 ozs (110g) castor sugar
3 free-range eggs
1 tablespoon castor sugar
2 ozs (55g) plain white flour
2 ozs (55g) whole almonds or best quality ground almonds

toasted flaked almonds and crystallized violets

Chocolate Icing
4 ozs (110g) best quality dark chocolate
2 tablespoons Red Jamaica Rum
4 ozs (110g) unsalted butter

2 x 18cm (7inch) sandwich tins

Preheat the oven to 180ºC/350ºF/regulo 4. Grease the tins and line the base of each with greaseproof paper. Melt the chocolate with the rum on a very gentle heat.
Bring a small saucepan of water to the boil and add the almonds. Bring back to the boil for 2-3 minutes. Test one to see if the skin is loose. Drain and peel and discard the skins. Grind in a food processor, they should still be slightly gritty.
Cream the butter, and then add the castor sugar, beat until light and fluffy. Beat in the egg yolks. Whisk the egg whites with a tablespoon of sugar and a pinch of salt until stiff. Add 1 tablespoon of castor sugar and continue to whisk until they reach the stiff peak stage. Add the melted chocolate to the butter and sugar mixture and then add the almonds. Stir in ¼ of the egg white mixture followed by ¼ of the sieved flour. Fold in the remaining eggs and flour alternatively until they have all been added.
Divide between the two prepared tins and make a hollow in the centre of each cake.

IMPORTANT: Cake should be slightly underdone in the centre. Sides should be cooked but the centre a little unset. Depending on oven it can take between 19 and 23 minutes. (We usually cook for 19 minutes).

Chocolate Butter Icing
Melt 4 ozs best quality chocolate with two tablespoons rum. Beat in 4 ozs unsalted butter by the tablespoon. Beat occasionally until cool. If the icing liquifies, put into the fridge to firm up, whisk until stiff.
When the cake is completely cold, fill and ice with the mixture. Pipe the remaining icing around the top and decorate with toasted flaked almonds and crystallized violets.

Easter Chocolate Mousse Cake

This cake is more of a challenge and time consuming to make, but the end result which is luscious and delicious is well worth the effort.

Serves 6 - 8

For the genoise
3½ ozs (100g) flour, 1 oz (30g) cocoa powder
½ level teasp. baking powder, pinch of salt
2 ozs (55g) unsalted butter
4 eggs, preferably free range
5 ozs (140g) sugar
½ teasp. pure vanilla essence

For the chocolate mousse:
10 ozs (285g) dark dessert chocolate, chopped
6 eggs, separated
6 ozs (170g) unsalted butter
1 teasp. pure vanilla extract or 2 tablesp. Grand Marnier liqueur

8 ozs (225g) dark dessert chocolate (for chocolate curls and decoration)
Chantilly cream made with ¾ pint (450ml) double cream, 2 tablesp. sugar and 1 teasp. vanilla essence
A little icing sugar and cocoa powder for dredging.
For decoration: Easter chicks and mini Easter eggs
9-10 inch (23-25cm) diameter round cake tin or genoise tin, 1¾ inch (4.5cm) deep.

Set the oven at moderate 180C/350F/regulo 4 and prepare the cake tin. Brush the inside of the tin with melted butter. Line the base with a circle of greaseproof paper that exactly fits and butter it also. Leave it for a few minutes and then sprinkle the tin with flour, discarding the excess.
Sieve the flour with the cocoa, baking powder and salt. Clarify the butter. Put the eggs in a large bowl, gradually whisk in the sugar. Put the bowl over a pan of hot but not boiling water, whisk for 8-10 minutes, or until the mixture is light and thick enough to make a distinct figure of 8 when the whisk is lifted. Take the bowl from the heat, add the vanilla essence and continue beating until cool. If you use a big electric mixer to beat genoise, the mixture needn't be whisked over hot water, this step cannot be eliminated however when using a small or hand-held mixer.
Sieve the flour over the mixture in three batches, folding in each batch as lightly as possible with a wooden spatula or metal spoon. Just after the last batch, pour the cool butter around the side of the bowl and fold in gently and quickly because the whisked mixture quickly loses volume after the butter is added. Pour the mixture into the prepared tin and bake in the preheated oven for 35-40 minutes or until the mixture springs back when lightly pressed with a fingertip. Cool on a wire rack. The cake can be baked ahead and kept in an airtight container for 2-3 days or it can be frozen.
For the chocolate mousse:
Melt the chocolate in a pan over hot water or in a very cool oven and stir until smooth. Beat the egg yolks one by one into the hot mixture so it thickens slightly. Beat in the butter and vanilla essence or liqueur. Allow to cool slightly. Whip the egg whites until stiff, add the tepid chocolate mixture to them and fold the two together as lightly as possible, the warm mixture will lightly cook and stiffen the whites. Leave to cool at room temperature, not in the fridge, otherwise the mousse will harden and become difficult to spread.
Chocolate decorations:
Melt the 8ozs (225g) of chocolate in a pan over hot water and stir until smooth. Pour the chocolate onto a very cold surface or marble slab. Spread into a very thin sheet with a palette knife. Allow to cool until almost set. Shave off curls with a knife (chocolate caraque). Store the curls in the fridge until needed.
To assemble the Easter cake
Split the genoise in 3 layers. Spread the chocolate mousse on the bottom layer. Place the second layer of genoise on top and spread it with the Chantilly cream. Top with the third layer and spread the remaining mousse on the top and sides of the cake. Decorate the sides with some of the chocolate curls, arrange the remainder of the curls around the edge of the cake as though it were a nest. Dredge with a little icing sugar and cocoa powder. Fill the centre with mini eggs and decorate with Easter chicks.

Foolproof Food

Brownies

A great American favourite - the relatively large amount of sugar gives brownies their delicious and characteristic crust.

32 ozs (100g) butter
7 ozs (200g) castor sugar
2 eggs
2 teasp. vanilla essence
2 ozs (55g) best quality dark chocolate
3 ozs (85g ) white flour
2 teasp. baking powder
3 teasp. salt
4 ozs (110g) chopped walnuts

1 x 8 inch (20.5cm) tin lined with silicone paper

Melt the chocolate in a bowl in a low oven.
Cream the butter and sugar and beat in the lightly whisked eggs, the vanilla essence and melted chocolate. Lastly stir in the flour, baking powder and chopped nuts. Spread the mixture in the square tin and bake in a moderate oven 180C/350F/regulo 4, for approx. 30-35 minutes.

Cut into 2 inch (5cm) squares for serving. 

Hot Tips

Valrhona is considered by chefs and hedonists to be the aristocrat of chocolate. For your nearest supplier contact Freda Wolfe on 086-3871285 or Chris on 01-4691400 or check out the Valrhona website at www.valrhona.com 

Green & Black’s Chocolate – available in good food shops and Fair Trade outlets nationwide.

Eve – Cork’s prize winning chocolatier at Flair Confectionery – 8 College Commercial Park, Magazine Road, Cork. Tel 021 4347781

O’Conaill Chocolatiers, The Rock, Church Rd, Carrigaline, Co Cork
Tel 021-4373407 info@irishchocolate.net  www.oconaillchocolate.com
Handmade chocolates and specialities, including diabetic chocolate and couverture chocolate for retail and wholesale catering market.

Lily O’Briens and other Irish made favourites include Butlers, Celtic, , Lir, Skellig …..

Leonidas Chocolates – available nationally –
www.leonidas-chocolate.com

I adore rice for a myriad of reasons, apart from being a basic store cupboard staple this little grain comes in a wide number of varieties, shapes, flavours and textures which lend themselves to an endless selection of both sweet and savoury uses.
The creamy rice pudding of my childhood with its bubbly golden skin was my first introduction to rice, it is still a favourite but was only the beginning.
I can’t quite remember when I first tasted rice served as an accompaniment to a savoury dish, certainly I was in my teens, it may well have been when I ventured to Dublin. Our meals at home would always have included the much-loved potato.
Rice is grown not just in Asia but also in the US, Brazil, Peru and Ecuador, Guyana, Surinam, Spain, Italy, Iran, Madagascar, Egypt, several of the African countries and Australia.
There are thousands of varieties but as with many other plants the number in commercial cultivation is quite small, however, farmers in many countries still continue to grow sometimes illegally, local low yielding varieties for their flavour and texture. Seed banks around the world are also doing their utmost to save endangered varieties for posterity. They may well be needed in the future, if the main crops become diseased. Monoculture is always a risky business as was clearly demonstrated by the Irish potato famine.
Rice grows in flooded fields called paddies, I particularly remember an image of rice workers with their conical hats working in the rice paddies on the way in from the airport in Vietnam some years ago. Water buffalo wallowed in a pond, ducks swam and fed, children chased frogs and collected tadpoles.
Why all the water, well our interpreter explained that it acted as a kind of thermal blanket which insulated the crop against excessive heat or cold, others said it was mainly to drown the weeds. The fields are never flooded for more than a few weeks at a time, otherwise the water would become stagnant. Fish and shellfish and other creatures also live and pass through the paddies and provide a farmer’s family with some extra protein.
When the rice is ready to harvest, the crop is cut and threshed, dried and milled.
The old-fashioned, non-mechanical way to thresh rice and indeed most other grains is to raise a handful aloft and bring it down forcefully on a hard surface. In Vietnam and many other countries in Asia the women then shake the rice through in a slatted bamboo sieve. The straw is trapped in the sieve or simply blows away, it is used for animal feed. Rice is an integral part of the culture in all these countries, part of the folklore, literature and architecture. The are beautiful rice barns, often intricately carved and decorated, where the rice spirit lives, and many customs and superstitions are attached to rice.
On a more practical level it is important to know the different types of rice by physical appearance and to understand which is best for different dishes.
Rice can be, long, medium or short grain, patna, rose pearl, red or black.
Broadly speaking long and medium grain rices are used in or eaten with savoury and main course dishes.
Short grain rice eg. Carolina, in Western countries, in rice puddings. However, Japanese short grain rice which is sticky in texture, is essential for sushi.
Some European rices are short grain and are used in savoury dishes, eg Calasparra which is used for paella.
Arboria, Carnaroli or Vilano nano are the varieties to seek out for risotto.
Red rice is in fact a brownish colour, considered by many to be inferior in quality, but in the Camargue in France a red variety is a regional speciality and is now becoming much sought after by chefs and gourmets. Red rice needs extra cooking time. Black rice which is actually a deep blackberry purple is also highly regarded.
Brown rice still includes the bran layer and is therefore more nutritious than white rice. It has a wonderfully nutty flavour but takes considerably longer to cook.
Don’t waste your money on par-cooked or boil in the bag rice, its so easy to cook rice, just use lots of water and a little salt.

Risotto with Smoked Salmon & Peas

Serves 6

The rice dishes of the Veneto region are famous. Rice was introduced there by the Arabs and many varieties of short-grain rice still grow in the marsh lands around the river Po.
In Venice, risotto is made almost liquid, its great quality is its immense versatility. The Veneto is richer in vegetables than any other area in Italy so all sorts of vegetables and combinations of vegetables are included in the dish as well as herbs, poultry, game, chicken livers or shellfish. There is even a risotto made with squid ink and another with pine kernels and raisins which is actually a legacy of the Arabs.

1-1.3L (1¾ - 2¼ pint) broth or or light chicken stock
30g (1oz) butter
1 onion, finely chopped
2 tablespoons olive oil
400g (14oz) arboria rice, Carnaroli or Vilano nano
30g (1oz) butter
sea salt
175g (6oz) frozen peas, blanched and refreshed
150g (5oz) smoked Irish salmon cut into 3 inch (5mm) dice
fresh mint leaves

First bring the broth or stock to the boil, turn down the heat and keep it simmering. Melt the butter in a heavy bottomed saucepan with the oil, add the onion and sweat over a gentle heat for 4-5 minutes, until soft but not coloured. Add the rice and stir until well coated (so far the technique is the same as for a pilaff and this is where people become confused). Cook for a minute or so and then add 150ml (¼pint) of the simmering broth, stir continuously and as soon as the liquid is absorbed add another 150ml (¼pint) broth. Continue to cook, stirring continuously. The heat should be brisk, but on the other hand if its too hot the rice will be soft outside but still chewy inside. If its too slow, the rice will be gluey. Its difficult to know which is worse so the trick is to regulate the heat so that the rice bubbles continuously. The risotto should take about 25-30 minutes to cook.
When it is cooking for about 20 minutes, add the broth about 4 tablespoons at a time. I use a small ladle. Watch it very carefully from there on. The risotto is done when the rice is cooked but is still ever so slightly 'al dente'. It should be soft and creamy and quite loose, rather than thick. The moment you are happy with the texture, add the peas and smoked salmon, taste and add more salt if necessary. Serve immediately.
Risotto does not benefit from hanging around.

Rice and Lentils with Crispy Onions

Serves 6

Le Mignon in Camden town make a dish which they call Mudarara -a version of this recipe - delicious comfort food, serve it alone or as part of a mezze.

680g (12lb) onions (about 4 onions)
100ml (4fl oz) olive oil
1L (1.75pints) water
250g (9oz) brown lentils
250g (9oz) basmati rice
salt and freshly ground pepper

Peel and slice the onions. Heat the oil in a saute pan, add the onions, toss and cook until golden.
Bring the water to the boil, add the lentils and cook for 20 minutes, add half the fried onions and the rice. Season with salt and freshly ground pepper. Stir well. Cover and cook on a very low heat for about 20 minutes or until both rice and lentils are cooked. Taste and correct seasoning if necessary.
Meanwhile continue to cook the remaining onions in the saute pan until crisp and caramelized. Serve the rice and lentils at room temperature sprinkled with the crispy onions.

Monkfish, saffron and artichoke paella

Sam Clark from Moro Restaurant in London showed us how to make this paella when he was our guest chef a few years ago.

Serves 6 as a starter, 4 as a main course

30-40cm paella pan or frying pan
7 tablespoons olive oil
400g (14oz) monkfish fillets cut into 2-3cm bite-sized pieces
2 medium onions, finely chopped
2 green peppers, cut in half, seeded and finely chopped
6 cloves garlic, finely chopped
½ teaspoon whole fennel seeds
800ml (1 ¼ pints) fish stock
1 teaspoon saffron threads, about 100 threads
250g (9oz) Calasparra rice
70ml (3floz) white wine or fino sherry
2 tablespoons roughly chopped flat-leaf parsley
½ teaspoon Spanish smoked paprika
225g (8oz) piquillo peppers torn in strips
1 lemon, in wedges
sea salt and black pepper

Heat two tablespoons of the olive oil in the paella or frying pan over a medium to high heat. Carefully add the monkfish to the pan and stir-fry until still fractionally undercooked in the centre. Pour the monkfish and any of its juices into a bowl to one side. Wipe the pan clean with kitchen paper, and put back on the heat. Add the remaining olive oil and when it is hot, the onions and peppers and cook for 15-20 minutes stirring every so often. Turn down the heat to a medium temperature and add the chopped garlic and fennel seeds and cook for a further 10 minutes or until the garlic and the onions have some colour and are sweet. Meanwhile bring the stock to the boil and add the saffron to the stock to infuse for 10 minutes. Now add the rice to the pan and stir to coat with the vegetables and oil. (Up to this point all this can be done in advance, and you need only continue 20-25 minutes before you wish to eat.) Put the heat to a medium to high temperature and add the white wine or fino to the pan followed by the stock. At this point, add half the parsley, the paprika and season perfectly with salt and pepper. Do not stir the rice after this point as it affects the channels of stock, which allow the rice to cook evenly. Simmer for 10 minutes or until there is just a little liquid above the rice. Spread the monkfish out evenly over the rice along with its juices. Push each piece of monkfish under the stock. Gently shake the pan to prevent sticking and turn the heat down to a medium to low temperature. Cook for five more minutes or until there is just a little liquid left at the bottom of the rice. Turn off the heat and cover the pan tightly with foil. Let the rice sit for 5 minutes before serving. Decorate with strips of piquillo peppers, the rest of the chopped parsley and wedges of lemon. We would serve this paella with a salad.

Kunie’s Sushi Plate

For starter - Serves 4

Sushi Rice
1 pint Japanese rice (short size – called No 1 Extra Fancy)
600ml (1 pint) water

Vinegar water
100 ml (3½ fl.oz) rice vinegar
2 –3 tablespoons sugar (if you don’t like sweet taste, reduce sugar)
½ teaspoon salt

sheets of nori seaweed

Filling
7-8 slices tuna or smoked salmon (half) cut into 5mm strip (half) divide into two 2cm x 4 cm
2-3 avocado slice 3mm rectangular 2cm x 4cm
½ cucumber seeded and cut into 5mm strip
25g (1oz) Cheddar cheese cut into 5mm strip
3-4 basil leaves

Garnish
Fennel leaves

Sauce and accompaniment
Wasabi paste
Soy-sauce or 4 parts soy sauce to 1 part mirin
Pickled ginger
Bamboo mat for rolling
Wash the rice well until the water runs clear. Soak in water for at least 1 hour before you cook. Bring to the boil on a high heat in a heavy bottomed saucepan, then reduce to minimum heat. Cook in the covered saucepan for 15 minutes. Before turning off the heat, turn to a high heat again for just 10 seconds. Remove from the heat and leave it for 10 minutes. Do not open the lid at any stage.
Meanwhile mix the vinegar, sugar and salt in a bowl until it is dissolved. Turn the rice out onto a big flat plate (preferably wooden). While it is still hot and pour the mixed liquid through the wooden spoon.
Mix them together as if you slice the rice with the wooden spoon. Don’t stir. You must do it quickly preferably fanning the rice with the fan. Allow to cool on the plate and cover with kitchen paper or a tea towel. (It will soak up the liquid)
Norimaki
Place nori on the bamboo mat and put the rice on it. Make a shallow indentation and put in the filling. Roll the mat. You can put whatever you like as the filling for example, smoked salmon and basil, cucumber, cheese….
.Nigiri sushi
Make a little long ball with rice. Put a slice of salmon or avocado on top. Garnish with fennel leaves or tie with a strip of nori.
Temari Sushi
Take a piece of cling film, place a leaf of coriander or chervil in the centre, then a square piece of smoked salmon and a little rice. Gather up the edges and twist into a ball. Remove from cling film onto a plate.
To Serve
Cut the Norimaki into 6-8 pieces. Arrange 6 pieces of sushi in total on a plate. Put a little blob of Wasabi mustard about the size of a small pea on the plate, a little dish of Kikkoman Soy sauce and a few slivers of picked ginger.
To enjoy: put a tiny dot of wasabi on a piece of sushi, dip in soy sauce and eat with chop sticks.

Foolproof Food

Plain Boiled Rice

I find this way of cooking rice in what we call ‘unlimited water’ to be very satisfactory for plain boiled rice, even, dare I say, foolproof. The grains stay separate and it will keep happily covered in the oven for up to half an hour.

Serves 8

14 ozs (400 g/2 cups) best quality long-grain rice, eg. Basmati rice
8 pints of water
2 teaspoons salt
A few little knobs of butter (optional) 

Bring 8 pints of water to a fast boil in a large saucepan. Add salt. Sprinkle in the rice and stir at once to ensure that the grains don’t stick. Boil rapidly, uncovered. After 4 or 5 minutes (depending on the type of rice), test by biting a few grains between your teeth - it should still have a slightly resistant core. If it overcooks at this stage the grains will stick together later.
Strain well through a sieve or fine strainer. Put into a warm serving dish, dot with a few knobs of butter, cover with tin foil or a lid and leave in a low oven, 140ºC/275ºF/regulo 1, for a minimum of 15 minutes. Remove the lid, fluff up with a fork and serve.

Hot Tips

Rice in all its forms – rice flour, rice puffs, rice noodles etc. is suitable for coeliacs. Nature’s Way in Paul St in Cork make a range of breads from the ancient variety of Spelt wheat which can be enjoyed by those with wheat allergies. The coeliac bread is light and delicious. 

How much rice do I need to cook – 1 cup of rice is adequate for 2 people.
Leftover rice should be kept refrigerated and eaten within 2 days. This is to prevent infection from Bacillus Cereus, an organism that dies below 4º/39ºF and above 60ºC/140ºF. In between these temperatures it multiplies rapidly and can result in a nasty tummy upset.

Growing Awareness is pleased to announce the first in a series of tree and food workshops on Sunday 4th April - The workshop on Apple Grafting will take place at Gortnamucklagh, Skibbereen from 11.00 to 4.30 and will cost €25 including lunch. For information and booking contact Paul McCormick, Tel 028-23742 – email:paulfmccormick@eircom.net
This project is supported by the Heritage Council.

Take a bite of the North West on Monday 5th April – At the launch of 315º Foods, the North West network of quality food producers, at the Slieve Russell Hotel, Ballyconnell, Co Cavan. Open to the public at 3pm. Top chef Neven Maguire will be demonstrating simple and delicious recipes throughout the day and food expert John McKenna will answer questions.

In a myriad of venues all over the world ordinary life comes to a complete standstill on March 17th, St Patrick’s Day. People rummage through their cupboards and wardrobes for items of emerald green. From New York to Bangkok and Boston to Tokyo, the Irish and their friends of every hue want to celebrate their Irishness.

Shops and street traders have a field day selling fancy hats, scarves, music, balloons, flats, T-shirts and badges with all kinds of witty, naughty or nutty slogans to get us into the spirit. Badges with VIP – very Irish person, RIP – real Irish person, HIP – happy Irish person…..

Mountains of beef are corned for the big day and thousands of loaves of soda bread and spotted dog are baked. The streets are painted, rivers run green, even the beer in some pubs is dyed a lurid shade to empathise with the Irish. Not that there’s any reluctance – everyone wants to be Irish on St Patrick’s day. The Irish stores do a roaring trade, Irish pubs have a jamboree, everyone is good humoured, high spirited and determined to have fun, Irish music fills the air and everyone’s toes are tapping.

The day starts with the parade – I’ve been to New York on many occasions over this period.. My days are filled with interviews and other events to promote Ireland and dispel the widely held image that in Ireland we live on corned beef and cabbage and over cooked vegetables.
I take every opportunity to tell people about our vibrant economy and the renaissance on the Irish food scene. Interviewers always want to know how St Patrick’s Day is celebrated back on the old sod – what do people eat? They are always surprised to hear that in Ireland most people just get on with their day, many are scarcely aware that its St Patrick’s Day and rarely eat even a piece of spotted dog, not to speak of corned beef and cabbage.

However, in recent years Bord Failte and County Enterprise Boards have really encouraged Irish people to emulate the Irish emigrants and ex-pats whose thoughts turn to home, in a nostalgic and poignant way. We love to serve some traditional Irish dishes for St Patrick’s Day. In my book on Traditional Irish Cooking just recently re-published by Kyle Cathie there are over recipes to choose from.


For me the real meaning of St Patrick’s Day is embodied in the dear little shamrock which St. Patrick is reputed to have used to illustrate the Trinity, so I search in the grass until I find some shamrock, and then tuck into a bowl of Irish Stew or Bacon and Cabbage.

Irish Colcannon Soup
Serves 6

Colcannon is one of Irelands best loved traditional potato dishes. Fluffy mashed potato flecked with cooked cabbage or kale. This soup uses identical ingredients to make a delicious soup

55g (2oz) butter
425g (15oz) peeled diced potatoes
110g (4oz) diced onions
salt and freshly ground pepper
1.1 litre (2pint) home-made chicken stock or vegetable stock
450g (1lb) Savoy cabbage
25g (1oz) butter
salt and freshly ground pepper
130ml (4 fl oz) creamy milk

Melt the butter in a heavy-bottomed saucepan. When it foams, add the potatoes and onions and toss them in the butter until well coated. Season with salt and freshly ground pepper. Cover and sweat on a gentle heat for 6-10 minutes. Add the stock, increase the heat, and cook until the vegetables are soft but not coloured.
Meanwhile make the buttered cabbage
Remove the tough outer leaves from the cabbage. Divide into four, cut out the stalks and then cut into fine shreds across the grain. Put 2-3 tablespoons of water into a wide saucepan with the butter and a pinch of salt. Bring to the boil, add the cabbage and toss constantly over a high heat, then cover for a few minutes. Toss again and add some more salt, freshly ground pepper and a knob of butter.
Puree in a blender or food processor, add the cabbage to the soup. Taste and adjust seasoning. Thin with creamy milk to the required consistency.
Note: Cabbage may be pureed with the soup if a smoother texture is your preference.

Bacon and Cabbage and Parsley Sauce

Serves 12-15

Without question Ireland's national dish - less widely known abroad but much more widely eaten, particularly in rural Ireland, than the legendary Irish Stew. Choose a piece of bacon with a nice covering of fat.

1.8-2.25kg (4-5lb) loin or shoulder of bacon with a nice covering of fat.
1 head cabbage, savoy, greyhound or spring cabbage, depending on the time of year.
salt and freshly ground pepper, careful with salt, the bacon water may be salty enough
50-85g (2-3oz) butter

Parsley Sauce

Cover the bacon in cold water and bring slowly to the boil. If the bacon is very salty there will be white froth on top of the water, so it is preferable to discard this water, it may be necessary to change the water several times depending on how salty the bacon is, finally cover with hot water and continue to simmer, allow 45 minutes to the kg (20 minutes to the lb).

Meanwhile, remove the outside leaves from the cabbage, cut into quarters and remove the centre core. Cut into thin strips across the grain, about 30 minutes before the bacon is cooked add the cabbage and continue to cook until the cabbage is soft and tender and the bacon fully cooked through.
Meanwhile make the parsley sauce. Remove the bacon to a hot plate, strain the water off the cabbage. Return the well-drained cabbage to the saucepan, add a good lump of butter and season well with freshly ground pepper. Taste. Remove the rind from the bacon and serve with the cabbage. The traditional accompaniment would be lots of boiled floury potatoes.

Parsley sauce

600ml (1 pint) milk
55g (2oz) roux
salt and freshly ground pepper
a few slices of carrot, optional
a few slices of onion, optional
bouquet garni
chopped parsley

If using herbs and vegetables, put them in the cold milk and bring to simmering point, season and simmer for 4-5 minutes. Strain out the herbs and vegetables, bring the milk back to the boil, whisk in the roux until the sauce is a light coating consistency. Season with salt and freshly ground pepper. Add chopped parsley and simmer on a very low heat for 4-5 minutes.
Tip
An alternative way of cooking the cabbage is Buttered Cabbage (see Colcannon Soup recipe)

Scallion Champ

Serves 4-6

A bowl of mashed potatoes flecked with green scallions and a blob of butter melting in the centre is ‘comfort’ food at its best.

1.5kg (3lb) 6-8 unpeeled 'old' potatoes e.g. Golden Wonders or Kerrs Pinks
110g (4oz) chopped scallions or spring onions (use the bulb and green stem) or 45g
chopped chives
350ml (10-12fl oz) milk
55-110g (2-4oz) butter
salt and freshly ground pepper

Scrub the potatoes and boil them in their jackets.
Chop finely the scallions or spring onions or chopped chives. Cover with cold milk and bring slowly to the boil. Simmer for about 3-4 minutes, turn off the heat and leave to infuse. Peel and mash the freshly boiled potatoes and while hot, mix with the boiling milk and onions, beat in the butter. Season to taste with salt and freshly ground pepper. Serve in 1 large or 6 individual bowls with a knob of butte melting in the centre. Scallion mash may be put aside and reheated later in a moderate oven, 180C/350F/regulo 4. Cover with tin foil while it reheats so that it doesn’t get a skin. 
Scallion and Potato Cakes
Shape leftover scallion mash into potato cakes, cook until golden on both sides in clarified butter or butter and oil. Serve piping hot.

Irish Country Rhubarb Cake
Serves 8

This delicious juicy Rhubarb Cake based on an enriched bread dough was made all over the country. Originally it would have been baked in the bastible or baker beside an open fire. My mother, who taught me this recipe varied the filling with the seasons. First there was rhubarb, followed by green gooseberries in May. Eventually we had the first of the cooking apples in Grandad's garden, then if we were lucky some Victoria plums from a neighbour's walled garden and finally blackberries and apple in the autumn.

12 ozs (340g) flour
2 ozs (55g) castor sguar
a pinch of salt
2 teaspoon breadsoda
3 ozs (85g) butter
1 egg (preferably-free range) 
egg wash
52 fl ozs (165ml) milk, buttermilk or sour milk
12 lbs (675g) rhubarb, finely chopped
6-8 ozs (170-225g) granulated sugar
castor sugar for sprinkling

1 x 10 inch (25.5cm) enamel or Pyrex plate

Preheat the oven to 180C/350F/regulo 4

Sieve the flour, salt, bread soda and castor sugar into a bowl, rub in the butter. Whisk the egg and mix with the buttermilk. Make a well in the centre of the dry ingredients. Pour in most of the liquid and mix to soft dough; add the remainder of the liquid if necessary.
Sprinkle a little flour on the work surface, turn out the dough and pat gently into a round. Divide into two pieces: one should be slightly larger than the other; keep the larger one for the lid. Meanwhile dip your fingers in flour. Spread the smaller piece onto the plate. Scatter the finely chopped rhubarb all over the base, egg-wash the edges and sprinkle the rhubarb with sugar. Roll out the other piece of dough until it is exactly the size to cover the plate, lift it on and press gently to seal the edges. Make a hole in the centre for the steam to escape, egg-wash and sprinkle with a very small amount of sugar.
Bake in a moderate oven, 180C/350F/regulo 4, for 45 minutes to 1 hour or until the rhubarb is soft and the crust is golden. Leave it to sit for 15-20 minutes so that the juice can soak into the crust. Sprinkle with castor sugar. Serve still warm with a bowl of softly whipped cream and some moist, brown sugar.

Foolproof Food

Brown Soda Bread and Scones

Makes 1 large or 2 smaller loaves

560g/1lb 4oz brown wholemeal flour (preferably stone-ground)
560g/ 1lb 4oz plain white flour
2 teaspoons (10g) dairy salt
2 teaspoons (10g) bread soda (Bicarbonate of Soda/Baking Soda) sieved
1 ½ - 1 ¾ pints/scant litre sour milk or buttermilk

First preheat the oven to 230C/450F/regulo 8

Mix all the dry ingredients together in a large wide bowl, make a well in the centre and pour all of the sour milk or buttermilk. Using one hand, stir in a full circle starting in the centre of the bowl working towards the outside of the bowl until all the flour is incorporated. The dough should be soft but not too wet and sticky. When it all comes together, a matter of seconds, turn it out onto a well floured board. WASH AND DRY YOUR HANDS. Roll around gently with floury hands for a second, just enough to tidy it up. Flip over and flatten slightly to about 2 inches (5cm) approx. Sprinkle a little flour onto a baking sheet and place the loaf on top of the flour. Make with a deep cross and bake in a hot oven 230C/450F/regulo 8 after 20-30 minutes reduce the heat to 200C/400F/regulo 6 for approx. 30-50 minutes or until the bread is cooked (In some ovens it is necessary to turn the bread upside down on the baking sheet for 5-10 minutes before the end of baking) It will sound hollow when tapped. Cool on a wire rack.
Note: 
1. One could add 25g/1 oz fine oatmeal, 1 egg and 25g/1 oz butter to the above to make a richer soda bread dough.
2. Two smaller loaves will take less time to cook

Brown Soda Scones

Make the dough as above. Form it into a round and flatten to 4cm/1½ inch thick approx. Stamp out into scones with a cutter, or cut with a knife. Bake for about 30 minutes in a hot oven (see above).

Note: Bread should always be cooked in a fully pre-heated oven, but ovens vary enormously so it is necessary to adjust the temperature accordingly.
If a lighter bread is preferred, use 675g (1½ lbs) white flour and 450g (1lb) brown wholemeal flour.
                                                    

Top Tips
Where to get good bacon –


Fingal Ferguson’s Gubbeen bacon – from the Gubbeen Smokehouse in Schull, Co Cork, Tel/Fax 028 27824 e-mail: smokehouse@eircom.net  


Caherbeg Free-Range Pork and dry-cured bacon, Rosscarbery, Co Cork, Tel 023-48474, Fax 023-48966 www.caherbegfreerangepork.ie  email:caher@caherbegfreerangepork.ie  


O’Donovans in Princes Streeet, Cork Tel 021- 4270763 and O’Flynns in Marlboro Street, 021-4275685
Jack McCarthy, Main St. Kanturk, Co Cork. Tel 029-50178
John David Powers Butchers, Main St. Dungarvan, Co Waterford, Tel. 058-42339
Rudds Bacon from Birr, Co Offaly – widely available Tel 0509 22508 www.rudds.ie  


Hicks of Sallynoggin in Dublin, Tel. 01-2842700 www.thepinkpig.com  email:sales@thepinkpig.com  – also at Temple Bar and other markets.


Pat Doherty from Enniskillen, Co Fermanagh has a great reputation and is noted for his Fermanagh Black bacon – Tel 00 44 2866 322 152 www.blackbacon.com  
Rick Stein mentioned many of the fine Irish butchers in his book ‘Food Heroes’.

Doctors, nutritionists, and food experts around the globe are telling us to eat more tofu. Its an excellent source of high-quality protein and calcium. The extra bonus is that it contains no cholesterol and is very low in calories and saturated fat. So why don’t we eat more tofu? Partly, because for too long tofu has been used as a substitute for other ingredients and partly because we don’t quite know what to do with it. Why turn tofu into a beef substitute in a burger or pass it off as ‘cheese’ in lasagne, when its delicious on its own?

The Soyabean is a truly wonderful food, it could well be described as the cow of Asia. It provides a wide variety of high-protein foods. When it’s ground with water, cooked and strained, it produces soy milk. When coagulants are added and heat is applied it can be transformed into many types of tofu.

Soy milk is a huge boon to the growing number of people who are allergic to dairy products. Many find it alleviates some of the symptoms during menopausal years.

Tofu is an important source of protein. Vegetarians and tofu enthusiasts use it to replace meat in all kinds of dishes but it is also good on it’s own.
Tofu is made from soy milk which is heated and stirred with coagulants. It solidifies into curds which are pressed to make blocks of tofu. It can be soft and silky or very firm, depending on the coagulant and the screening method.

In Asian shops and markets there are many types of tofu to be found, but the 2 main types available in Ireland are:-

Chinese-style firm Tofu – this type of tofu is firmer in texture. It looks coarse but becomes smoother when cooked. It can be marinated for a longer period and is also good fried or grilled, or used for kebabs or brochettes. It comes packed in water in sealed plastic container either in slabs or in slices. It can be frozen

Silken Tofu – both soft and firm, is more delicate and fragile than Chinese-style tofu. It’s best for miso soups, tofu salads, mock mayonnaise…. It comes in sealed boxes and keeps for months at room temperature. However, once opened it should be refrigerated and used within a few days.

Marinated Baked Tofu - there are several flavours available, some are seasoned with five-spice powder, barbecue sauce or sesame seeds. All have a chewy meaty texture and their flavour is improved if sautéed first in a little olive or sesame oil. Great to add to stir fries, Asian pasta dishes, spring rolls …


A little bit of advice when buying Tofu
A high proportion of the soya bean crop is genetically modified so check the label carefully to ensure that you are buying a non GM product.

Always check the sell-by dates and keep refrigerated. Tofu should smell mild, sweet and vaguely nutty. Once it begins to smell sour discard it because it is not good to eat.
Preparation
Draining the tofu gets rid of the excess water so it can absorb marinades or fry without spluttering too much. Blot the tofu all over with paper towels. This will absorb quite a bit of the moisture but you may want to apply some weight and drain it if you plan to cook it later.
Firm Chinese-style tofu is fairly robust but you will need to be a little more gentle with silken tofu.

Pre-cooking
In many recipes, tofu is shallow or deep fried first in oil to give it a chewy texture and a most appetizing colour. It can then be marinated and used in stir fries or added to stews. Tofu can also be firmed up by simmering cubes in a pot of water or vegetable stock for about 5 minutes. Both methods make the protein firm so that the cubes of tofu will keep their shape when cooked further.
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Other Soybean products include:-

Tempeh is a high protein Indonesian soy product with a dense meaty quality, sometimes called – fakin’ bacon!
Miso is created when soy beans are fermented – this is a flavour paste that forms the basis of many soups and soy sauce.
T.V.P. – textured vegetable protein is used to replace meat with varying degrees of success.
To freeze tofu
Just cut into 1 inch cubes, drain briefly and freeze in a plastic bag. Allow to defrost and drain again before using.

If you are a loss for ideas or don’t know where to start, Deborah Madison’s book – This can’t be Tofu! Published by Broadway Books, New York.

Tofu & Vegetable Stir Fry

Serves 6

2 tbsp soy sauce
2 tbsp rice wine vinegar
1 tbsp brown sugar
1 fresh chilli (chopped) or
1 tsp of chilli flakes
2 tsp Chinese five spice powder
350g/12ozs FIRM TOFU
200g/7ozs mushrooms (sliced)
2 tbsp sunflower oil
1 large red pepper (sliced)
1 large yellow pepper (sliced)
200g/7ozs broccoli florets or cauliflower
2 spring onions
1 tbsp sesame oil
Thai fragrant rice (steamed)
1 tbsp toasted sesame seeds

Mix the soy sauce, vinegar, sugar, chilli flakes and five-spice powder together. Cut the tofu into fingers Transfer to a small pie dish, cover with the marinade and allow to soak up the flavours for 1-2 hours if possible.

Just before stir-frying, put on the rice to cook (see recipe). While the rice is resting, drain the tofu, reserve the marinade. Heat the wok, add the sunflower oil. Cook the tofu in batches until golden, transfer to a plate. Increase the heat. Add a little more oil, toss the mushrooms with salt and freshly ground pepper. Toss until fully cooked through. Add the peppers, stir and fry for a minute or two, add the broccoli florets. 

Drizzle with sesame oil, stir fry for 2 or 3 minutes. Add the tofu, chopped spring onions and the marinade. Bubble up, taste, correct the seasoning. Scatter with sesame seeds and serve immediately with Thai fragrant rice.

Foolproof Food

Thai Fragrant Rice

Serves 4-6

Thai fragrant rice is perfect for South East Asian meals. When cooked it is shiny with just a slight hint of stickiness.

340g (12floz) Thai fragrant rice, measured in a measuring jug
340ml (12floz) water

Put the rice and water into a heavy bottomed saucepan, bring to the boil, stir once cover with a tight fitting lid*, and lower the heat to the absolute minimum - use a heat diffuser mat if possible. Continue to cook on the lowest heat for 15 minutes. Do not uncover during cooking. Take off the heat, keep covered and allow to sit for 5 minutes before serving. The rice will stay warm for several hours if necessary.

*It may be necessary to cover with tin foil if the lid is really not tight fitting

Aki Ishibashi’s Miso Soup

One of our Japanese students showed us how to make this delicious soup. Ingredients are available from Mr. Bell’s stall in the Cork Market or good health food and Asian shops.

Serves 4

600ml (1 pint) Dashi (see recipe)
3-4 generous tablespoons miso paste
175g (6oz) tofu, cut into 1cm ( ½ inch) cubes
1 dessertspoon wakame (dried seaweed)

Garnish
1 spring onion, thinly sliced

Heat the dashi, and dissolve the miso paste by stirring it into the dashi. When it has dissolved completely, add the tofu cubes and wakame. Bring it to the boil. As soon as it starts to boil, turn off the heat. Ladle miso soup into warmed individual soup bowls and garnish with spring onion.
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Dashi

Dashi (bonito fish stock)

is essential in many Japanese dishes. It provides a savoury flavour which cannot be attained by using seasoning only and it is much easier to make than meat or fish stock.

425ml ( ¾ pint) water
10cm (4 inch) piece konbu (dried kelp) 
5-7g ( ⅛ - ¼ ) dried bonito flakes

Wipe and clean konbu with a dry cloth. Do not wipe off the white powder on the surface, as that is the one element that provides a unique savoury flavour. Put the water in a saucepan and soak the konbu for 30 minutes before turning on the heat. Remove any scum that forms on the surface. When the water begins to bubble, just before boiling, take out the konbu. Do not overcook or it will become slimy and the flavour of the stock too strong. Add the bonito flakes, bring back to the boil, turn off the heat and set aside until the bonito flakes sink to the bottom. Strain through very fine muslin and discard the bonito flakes. Use fresh or freeze immediately.
Instant Dashi
Instant dashi can be found in the form of a liquid extract as well as powder. Just dissolve a liquid dashi or powdered dashi in boiling water. But the flavour is far from that of homemade dashi.

Fried Tofu and Pepper Curry with Cashews
From ‘This can’t be Tofu’ by Deborah Madison

Serves 3

1 carton firm tofu (cartons usually weigh 14-20 ozs/400-600g)
12 fl.oz (350ml) peanut oil, for frying
1 small onion, thinly sliced
1 red bell pepper, thinly sliced
2 serrano chillies, minced or finely diced
1-2 teasp. Thai red curry paste
8fl.oz (225ml) coconut milk
4fl.oz (125ml) vegetable stock, chicken stock or water
salt
3 tablesp. roasted, chopped cashews
3 tablesp. coarsely chopped coriander leaves


Drain the tofu, then wrap in a towel and press while you prepare the rest of the ingredients – pressing means allowing the excess water to drain off, this will make it easier for the tofu to absorb other liquids and seasonings. It will also help prevent spattering when frying and diluting of the sauces and dressings which are added.

Then cut the tofu into 1 inch (2.5cm) cubes. If its still moist blot with paper towels so that it won’t splatter when fried.
Heat the oil in a wok or pan. When hot enough to sizzle a crumb of tofu, add 6 or 7 pieces and fry until golden and crisp. Don’t let them brown, however. You’ll need to separate the pieces, as they tend to cling to one another. Remove when done and set on paper towels to drain. Pour all but 1 tablespoon of oil out of the wok and return the pan to the heat.
Add the onions, bell pepper and chillies and stir-fry for 1 minute. Stir in the curry paste, then add the coconut milk, stock, half teaspoon of salt and the tofu. Simmer for 2 minutes more, or until the tofu is heated through. Serve over rice or noodles, garnished with the roasted cashews and coriander.
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Iced Coffee Frappe

From ‘This Can’t be Tofu’ by Deborah Madison

Deborah says that once you start making smoothies with espresso you’ll plan to have leftover coffee. You can vary them endlessly with the additions suggested.

Serves 2

8 fl.ozs (225ml) cold strong coffee or espresso
4 fl.ozs (125ml) soy milk
2½ fl.ozs (55ml/ one-third cup) silken tofu
3 ice cubes
1 teaspoon pure vanilla essence
1 tablespoon brown sugar



Combine everything in the blender and puree until smooth.

Variations: pinch cinnamon or nutmeg, hazelnut or almond syrup, coconut milk, a big scoop of vanilla ice-cream or frozen yogurt, a banana.

Top Tips

Feile Bia was introduced in 2001 in response to growing consumer concern about the quality and origin of ingredients of food offered when eating out. Membership of Feile Bia is on a voluntary basis and at the moment there are over 1290 members across the food sector. The programme is organised in conjunction iwht the Restaurants Association of Ireland and the Irish Hotels Federation – a new Feile Bia plaque will be now be displayed outside all participating establishments.
Winner of 2004 Bord Bia Feile Bia Award – Fiacri House Restaurant , Boulrea Knock, Roscrea, Co Tipperary, an award-winning restaurant on the borders of Tipperary, Laois and Kilkenny, won the 2004 award in the Georgina Campbell Guide. The restaurant, owned and run by Ailish and Enda Hennessy is situated on the family dairy farm and sources fresh local ingredients where possible. Ailish also runs cookery classes.
Bantry Bay Seafoods were awarded the prestigious ‘Seafood Exporter of the Year 2003’ and they also scooped the Irish Exporters Association ‘Overall Exporter of the Year Award 2003’.They were picked for the top award because of ‘their impressive penetration into a number of difficult markets, the high value it adds to Irish seafood and its innovative development of new products’.

Great excitement this weekend at the Midleton Farmers Market, we’ll have the first of the new seasons olive oil for our customers to taste. This is the second year that we’ve brought Mani extra virgin olive oil directly from Greece. The fruity green oil is cold pressed from the Koroneïki olives in a traditional stone mill in the Mani peninsula in the southern Peloponnese.
Just before Christmas we visited Fritz and Burgi Bläuel in Mani to see the harvest and the production. The drive from Athens via Epidavrous and the neo-classical city of Nafplio is spectacular, rugged hilly countryside, stupendous views. It’s the citrus fruit season so the trees are laden with oranges, mandarins, grapefruit and satsumas. Occasionally we see a shepherd watching over his herd of sheep or goats. The milk will be used to make cheese or thick unctuous yoghurt, to sell, or sometimes kept for their own use. Every now and then we see an old lady all dressed in black collecting wild greens by the roadside. These greens called Khόrta, a mixture of dandelions, mustard and wild chicory, and even some special grasses, are boiled and drizzled with olive oil and eaten with a few drops of fresh lemon juice squeezed over the top. Many older people particularly, also drink the cooking water, full of vitamins and minerals.
The Mani peninsula has some of the most dramatic scenery in the Mediterranean, stunning coastline, sleepy fishing villages and olive groves as far as the eye can see. As we climbed up the hill towards the village of Pyrgos Lefktrou we could see terracotta tiled roofs of houses emerging out of a sea of olives trees with the Ionian Sea in the background.
We passed many of the farms who grow olives for the Mani Olive Oil company. The visionary behind this company, Fritz Blaűel grew up in his family’s restaurant in Vienna. Almost 30 years ago, he came to Kalamata to meditate and commune with nature in one of the most beautiful and peaceful places on earth. He was drawn towards an alternative life style, a counter culture as he described it and so became part of a commune. Gradually his companions left but Fritz stayed on as a Buddhist. He grew vegetables and worked with the local farmers and picked olives to survive. He soon realised that the quality of the olive oil made from the local Korόneike olives was superb. The local farmers just produced in a haphazard way. He was convinced that this oil was exceptional and food lovers would appreciate it and that there could be a market for this specific olive oil, as well as the more famous Kalamata olives which were already familiar to epicures. The challenge was to get the farmers to co-operate and to trust him, most already farmed organically by tradition. They were naturally wary at first, but gradually they realised that this was an opportunity to enable them to stay on the land, to earn a better living and maintain the lifestyle they loved.
Over 300 farmers now grow olives for Mani. Fritz employs a full time agronomist to help and advise the farmers. Together they have drawn up a protocol – many had come to enjoy the flavour of rancid olive oil over the years, so Fritz convinced the farmers of the importance of picking at optimum ripeness for the international market. They also became certified organic and are recognised by ‘Bio hellas’ of Athens, ‘Naturland’ of Germany, and the Soil Association in the UK. The business has grown and grown and Mani oil has won top prizes and is now exported to Germany, Austria, Switzerland, USA, UK and Ireland.
Englishman Charles Byrne who now lives in Kinsale met Fritz in 1978 while on holiday in Kalamata. He was gobsmacked by the quality of the local oil and so an enduring partnership was born. Charles now looks after Mani interests in the UK and Ireland.
Extra virgin olive oil is the unadulterated oil of the olive. Georg Gigas had just picked his olives, we went along with him to the local olive press. The olives were hand-picked into plastic crates rather than sacks, (damaged olives can sometimes start to ferment if left in sacks for several days.)
The traditional process is fascinating to see, the olives are tipped into a hopper and washed, the stray leaves fall off as the olives make their way along a slatted vibrating belt to the mill stones. The olives are then stone-ground into a kind of porridge, which is spread on to esparto mats. Between every six mats there’s a steel plate to facilitate the pressing. When the stack is complete it is inserted into a hydraulic press. As the pressure gradually increases the oil starts to drip down the sides of the mats into a container containing a little water. The impurities fall to the bottom as the oil rises to the top. The oil then makes its way to a centrifuge to separate the water from the freshly pressed oil.
There’s a growing excitement as we wait for the first of the new season’s olive oil to emerge from the tap. There are several other farmers waiting to have their olives pressed, everyone brings something, freshly baked bread, lemons, smoked herrings, a slab of crumbly feta and local wine in recycled plastic water bottles. When the first of the oil flows from the pipe, the men dip freshly toasted country bread into the new season’s oil and murmur appreciation as they compare the quality with last year’s harvest.
This year has been difficult, the harvest is well down on last year, partly because the olive is bi-annual but also because of the almost incessant rain from December to April, followed by storms during the flowering season. Consequently the yield is down by approximately 35%. This will naturally result in an increase in price. Fritz and his wife Burgi have saved an entire community livelihood by working with the farmers, they were pioneers in their field and now other communities in Crete have followed their example with considerable success.
Fritz and Burgi still run Buddhist retreats in Mani, yet they are linked into worldwide markets as well as their local community.

Greek Moussaka

Serves 8

This is a Greek peasant recipe served in almost every taverna in Greece, there are many variations on the theme some of which include a layer of cooked potato slices and raisins. I’m not sure if it is my imagination but I sometimes feel that moussaka is even better on the second day. 

340g (¾lb) aubergines
1 x 400g (14oz) can tomatoes or very ripe fresh tomatoes in summer
1 onion, finely chopped (include some green part of spring onion if you have it)
1 garlic clove, crushed
olive oil for frying
450g (1lb) cooked minced lamb
1 tablespoon chopped fresh marjoram or fresh thyme
2 teaspoons chopped fresh parsley
1 bay leaf
pinch of grated nutmeg
2 teaspoons flour
salt and freshly ground pepper
340g (¾lb) courgettes

For the topping
45g (1½oz) butter
45g (1½oz) flour
600ml (1 pint) milk
2 egg yolks
2 tablespoons cream
110g (4oz) grated gruyère or mature cheddar cheese
1 bay leaf
salt and freshly ground pepper

earthenware dish 25.5 x 21.5cm (10 x 8½inch)

Slice the aubergines and courgettes into 1cm (½inch) slices, score the flesh with a sharp knife and sprinkle with salt. Leave for half an hour. Roughly chop or cut up the tinned tomatoes. Peel and chop the fresh tomatoes finely if using. Keep the juices.
Heat a tablespoon of olive oil in a heavy saucepan over a gentle heat, add the onions and garlic and cover and sweat for 4 minutes. Add the meat, herbs, bay leaf and 
nutmeg to the onions. Stir in the flour and pour in the tomatoes and their juice. Bring to the boil, stirring, and simmer for 2-3 minutes. Season well.
Rinse and wipe the aubergines dry. Heat a little olive oil in a pan-grill until hot. Cook the aubergines on both sides until golden. Brush the courgettes with olive oil, pan-grill until light golden on each side. As the courgettes are done, put them into the bottom of a shallow casserole. Tip the meat mixture onto the courgettes, then lay the fried aubergines on top of that. See that the top is as flat as possible. 
Preheat the oven to 180C/350F/regulo 4.
Melt the butter in a saucepan. Stir in the flour. Cook stirring for 1 minute, then draw off the heat, add the milk slowly, whisking out the lumps as you go. Add the bay leaf. Return the pan to the heat and stir until boiling. Season with salt and pepper and simmer for 2 minutes. Mix the egg yolk with the cream in a large bowl. Pour the sauce on to this mixture stirring all the time. Add half the cheese and pour over the casserole. Sprinkle the rest of the cheese on top and bake for 30-35 minutes in a moderate oven 180C/350F/regulo 4 until completely reheated and well browned on top.

Moussaka can be made up in large quantities ahead of time, cooled quickly and frozen after it has been closely covered with cling film or plastic wrap. 

Greek Green Salad

I first ate this crisp chilled salad in a little taverna overlooking a harbour on the island of Aegina on a warm spring day - so simple and quite wonderful.

Cos or similar crisp lettuce
sprigs of fresh dill, about 2-3 tablesp.
3-4 spring onions
1-2 tablesp. freshly squeezed lemon juice
4 tablesp. Greek Extra Virgin Olive Oil
salt and freshly ground pepper

Wash, drain and chill the lettuce. Slice across the grain about  inch (5mm thick). Put into a bowl, sprinkle with sliced scallion or spring onion and tiny sprigs of dill. Just before serving mix the olive oil with the freshly squeezed lemon juice. Sprinkle over the salad, season with salt and freshly ground pepper, toss and serve immediately.
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Aubergine Puree with Olive Oil and Lemon

Serves 6 approx.

This is one of my absolute favourite ways to eat aubergine. It is served all through the southern Mediterranean, there are many delicious variations.

4 large aubergines
4-5 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
freshly squeezed organic lemon juice
salt and freshly ground pepper
2 cloves garlic, optional

Roast or grill the aubergines depending on the flavour you like.
Allow to cool. Peel the aubergines thinly, careful to get every little morsel of flesh. Discard the skin and drain the flesh in a sieve or colander. Transfer to a bowl, mash the puree with a fork or chop with a knife depending on the texture you like. Add extra virgin olive oil and freshly squeezed lemon juice, salt and freshly ground pepper to taste.

Variations:
1. freshly crushed garlic may also be added.
2. In Turkey some thick Greek yoghurt is often added, about 5-6 tablespoons for this quantity of aubergine puree, reduce the olive oil by half. 
Mixed with ricotta and freshly chopped herbs eg. marjoram this makes a delicious 'sauce' for pasta.
3. A spicier version from Morocco includes 1 teaspoon harissa , 1 teaspoon freshly ground cumin and 2 tablespoons coarsely chopped coriander leaves,
4. Add some pomegranate molasses - our new flavour of the month as they do in Syria - about 3-4 tablespoons instead of the freshly squeezed lemon juice.
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Lamb Kebabs with Tsatsiki

Serves 8 approx.

Choose kebab skewers carefully. They need to be flat and at least 3mm (cinch) wide, better still 5mm (¼inch). If they are round, the meat will swivel as you try to turn it. Best barbecued but kebabs may also be pan-grilled or cooked under a salamander.

900g (2lb) lean shoulder or leg of lamb

Marinade 1
300ml (½ pint) natural yoghurt
1 teaspoon ground coriander
1 teaspoon ground cumin
¼ teaspoon freshly ground pepper
juice of ½ lemon
OR
Marinade 2
6 tablespoons olive oil
juice of 1 lemon
1 tablespoon annual marjoram, rosemary or thyme leaves
2 large garlic cloves, crushed
salt and freshly ground pepper

metal skewers or kebab sticks
Accompaniments
Tsatsiki – see recipe below 

Mix either or both marinades, cut the meat into 2.5cm (1inch) cubes approx., season with salt and freshly ground pepper and put into chosen marinade for 1 hour at least. Drain the meat and thread into metal skewers or kebab sticks. Grill for 7 -10 minutes over a barbecue. Turn and baste with the marinade, serve with a green salad and chosen sauce eg. Tsatsiki 

Tzatziki

This Greek speciality is a delicious cucumber and yoghurt mixture and can be served as an accompanying salad or as a sauce to serve with grilled fish or meat. Greek yoghurt is often made with sheep's milk and is wonderfully thick and creamy.

1 crisp Irish cucumber, peeled and diced into - inch dice approx.
Salt and freshly ground pepper
1-2 cloves garlic, crushed
1 heaped tablesp. of freshly chopped mint
 pint (450ml) Greek yoghurt or best quality natural yoghurt
4 tablespoons cream

Put the cucumber dice into a sieve and sprinkle with salt and allow to drain for about 30 minutes. Dry the cucumber on kitchen paper, put into a bowl and mix with garlic, a dash of wine vinegar or lemon juice and the yoghurt and cream. Stir in the mint and taste, it may need a little salt and freshly ground pepper, or even a pinch of sugar.

Taramasalata

Serves 4-8 

Smoked cod roe is available in winter for a few months, we love it and often just spread it thinly on hot toast for supper. The Greek speciality Taramasalata is very easy to make, the home made version is paler in colour than the rather disconcerting pink often found nowadays. Some recipes call for an egg yolk to be added to the base mixture.

250g (9oz) smoked cod roe
3-4 slices good quality white bread 
juice of 1 organic lemon or to taste
50ml (2fl oz) sunflower oil
50ml (2fl oz) extra virgin olive oil

Cut the crusts off the bread and soak the bread in water. Skin the smoked and salted cod roe and put it into the food processor with the bread, which has been squeezed dry, add the freshly squeezed lemon juice. Flick on the motor. Trickle in the oil gradually as though you are making mayonnaise. Transfer to a bowl, cover and refrigerate, it will firm up.

Loukoumades
Sweet Fried Fritters

These sweet fried fritters are popular at the seaside cafes and sweet shops in Greece, on a summer evening, often with small cups of Greek coffee. Traditionally loukoumades are made with yeast, flour and water. Here is a simple but tasty version that mixes up in no time, it was given to me by Janette Xinotroulias.

5-6½ ozs (140-185g) self-raising flour
8 fl.ozs (250ml) buttermilk approx.
a little sugar and vanilla if desired
Honey, cinnamon and chopped walnuts

16 fl.ozs (500ml) corn oil for frying

Mix the above ingredients well with a wooden spoon. Heat approximately 16 fl.ozs (500ml) corn oil in a saucepan. The oil must be deep enough to accommodate the loukoumades as they puff up quite a bit. Be sure the batter is thick enough to form balls when dropped into the hot oil. When oil is just smoking, about (190C/375F), drop by teaspoonfuls into the oil. Be careful not to burn as they brown rapidly. Remove from oil with slotted spoon to a platter. Drizzle honey on top and sprinkle with cinnamon. Powdered sugar and or chopped nuts may also be sprinkled on them. 

Tiny Fried Fish (Marithes Tighanités)

Serves 6-8

We greatly enjoyed little fresh fish as part of mezze. Choose very fresh fish, eat whole hot, including the bones and head – crunchy and yummy.

1 lb (450g) whitebait
2½ ozs (60g) plain white flour
1 teasp. sea salt, or more to taste
1 teasp. freshly cracked black pepper, or more to taste

Extra virgin olive oil for frying

To serve:
2 large lemons, cut into wedges

Rinse the fish, drain, blot dry between layers of paper towels. Mix the flour and seasoning in a bowl. Add the fish. Toss to coat. Heat a ½ inch (1cm) layer of olive oil in a large pan. When hot fry a single layer of fish until golden brown, turning once. Drain on kitchen paper. Repeat with the remaining fish. 
Serve, piled on a warm platter with the lemon wedges.
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Foolproof food

Ballymaloe French Dressing

2 fl ozs (55ml) Wine vinegar
6 fl ozs (150ml) olive oil or a mixture of olive and other oils. eg. sunflower and arachide
1 level teaspoon mustard (Dijon or English)
1 large clove of garlic
1 scallion or small spring onion
Sprig of parsley
Sprig of watercress
1 level teaspoon salt
Few grinds of pepper

Put all the ingredients into a blender and run at medium speed for 1 minutes approx. or mix oil and vinegar in a bowl, add mustard, salt, freshly ground pepper and mashed garlic. Chop the parsley, spring onion and watercress finely and add in. Whisk before serving. N.B Vital to put in correct amount of salt.
 

Top Tips
The International Olive Oil Council www.internationaloliveoil.org   have details of the various designations and definitions of olive oils.
1. Research has demonstrated that olive oil has an effect in preventing the formation of blood clots and it has been observed that olive oil rich diets can attenuate the effect of fatty foods in encouraging blood clot formation, thus contributing to the low incidence of heart failure in countries where olive oil is the principal fat consumed.
2. Olive oil lowers the levels of total blood cholesterol, LDL-cholestrol and triglycerides. At the same time it does not alter the levels of HDL-cholestrol (and may even raise them) which plays a protective role.
The beneficial effect of olive oil consumption with regard to cardiovascular disease has been demonstrated in primary prevention, where it reduces the risk of developing the disease and in secondary prevention, where it prevents recurrence after a first coronary event.
3. At present, research is revealing the effectiveness of the Mediterranean diet in the prevention of secondary coronary events and the positive influence of olive oil on the depression associated with such events. These findings are very important in view of the high incidence of depression in the modern-day world and the great risk it poses in recurrent heart disease.
The Organic Centre, Rossinver, Co Leitrim has a wide range of courses available for 2004 – their mantra for this year is Reduce – Recycle – Refine – get yourself a copy of their brochure –
 email@organiccentgre@eircom.net  www.theorganiccentre.ie  Tel 071-98 54338 - new this year is a Garden Complete Course – a practical month by month guide including a session on bio-dynamic gardening. They will also run an outreach education programme for farmers and growers as well as community schools and groups and much, much more.

Shrove Tuesday’s here again – I adore Pancake Day, it always brings back memories of happy boisterous childhood parties – Mummy cooking stacks of thin lacy pancakes, struggling to keep up with the demand, while we squabbled about whose turn it was to have the next one off the pan.
We brushed the hot pancakes with melted butter, scattered them with castor sugar and sprinkled lemon juice over the top before rolling them up. 
There were 9 of us, we each had a different system, some cut them into cartwheels and ate them sparingly, others gobbled them down and tried to jump the queue for the next one. We were single-minded in our devotion to lemon pancakes, we never contemplated jam or chocolate spread. Tapenade or pesto or sun-dried tomatoes hadn’t been heard of at that stage, in fact it didn’t occur to us that pancakes could also be savoury.
Now we do all kinds of variations on the theme, different textures, size and shape, both sweet and savoury. We eat them for breakfast, lunch and dinner, and as canapés for drinks parties. They’re always delicious and always elicit an appreciative response. 
They definitely earn their place among my list of great convertibles. 
The basic batter is made with ingredients most households would have in the kitchen cupboard at any time – flour, eggs and milk, so grab a whisk, heat a pan and invite round the pals and off you go – have fun!

Pesto, Cream Cheese & Sundried Tomato Pancakes

This simple recipe makes a delicious canapé.

Tapenade may be substituted for pesto

Makes 48 approximately

6 large savoury pancakes – see recipe
6 ozs (175g) cream cheese
2 tablesp pesto
2-3 ozs (50-75g) semi-sundried tomatoes
lots of freshly ground pepper & a little sea salt

Spread a layer of cream cheese over the surface of a pancake with a palette knife. Sprinkle with pesto and some finely chopped sundried tomato or tapenade.

Roll into a tight swiss roll, cut into rounds or wrap in cling film. Repeat with the others. 
Refrigerate, remove the cling film and cut into ½" (1cm) rounds later. Repeat with the others. Garnish each piece with a leaf of basil or chervil

Heavenly Hots

Makes 50-60

These little pancakes are mouth-watering and very moreish

4 free-range eggs
good pinch of salt
½ teasp. bread soda
1¼ oz (30g) plain flour
16fl.ozs (450ml) sour cream
2 tablesp. sugar

Put the eggs into a mixing bowl. Whisk until well mixed. Add the salt, breadsoda, flour, sour cream and sugar and mix well. You could make the batter in a blender if you prefer.
Heat a frying pan until good and hot, grease lightly and drop small spoonfuls on to the hot pan – they should spread to about 2½ inches diameter. When a few bubbles appear on top turn the pancake over and cook briefly on the other side.

Serve immediately. For extra decadence spread with butter and sprinkle with cinnamon sugar.

Spinach and Mushroom Pancakes

There are lots of variations on this theme, but this is a particularly delicious version.

Serves 6-8

1 lb (450g) spinach
1 x Mushroom à la Crème recipe 

Ballymaloe Batter

Makes 15 pancakes approx.

12 ozs (350g) plain flour 
5 eggs
1 pint (600ml) milk
125ml (4fl.oz) sparkling mineral water or soda water
pinch of salt

Sieve the flour and a pinch of salt into a bowl, make a well in the centre and drop in the lightly beaten eggs. With a whisk or wooden spoon, starting in the centre, mix the egg and gradually bring in the flour. Add the liquid (milk and sparkling water) and beat until the batter is covered with bubbles. Let the batter stand in a cold place for an hour or so - longer will do no harm.
Alternatively put all the ingredients into a liquidiser or food processor and whizz for a minute or so. 
Cook small ladles full of the batter on a non stick pan and keep aside.

Meanwhile make the buttered spinach and mushroom a la crème.

Buttered Spinach

Serves 4-6

450g (1 lb) fresh spinach, with stalks removed
salt, freshly ground pepper and a little freshly grated nutmeg
25-50g (1-2 oz) butter

Wash the prepared spinach and drain. Put into a heavy saucepan on a very low heat, season and cover tightly. After a few minutes, stir and replace the lid. As soon as the spinach is cooked, about 5-8 minutes approx., strain off the copious amount of liquid that spinach releases and press between two plates until almost dry. Chop or puree in a food processor if you like a smooth texture. Increase the heat, add butter, correct the seasoning and add a little freshly grated nutmeg to taste.
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Make the Mushroom a la Crème 

Mushroom a la Creme

Serves 4

½-1 oz (15-30 g) butter
3 ozs (85 g) onion, finely chopped
½ lb (225g) mushrooms, sliced
4 fl ozs (100ml) cream
Freshly chopped parsley
½ tablespoon freshly chopped chives (optional)
A squeeze of lemon juice
Salt and freshly ground pepper

Melt the butter in a heavy saucepan until it foams. Add the chopped onions, cover and sweat on a gentle heat for 5-10 minutes or until quite soft but not coloured; remove the onions to a bowl. Meanwhile cook the sliced mushrooms in a hot frying pan in batches if necessary. Season each batch with salt, freshly ground pepper and a tiny squeeze of lemon juice . Add the mushrooms to the onions in the saucepan, then add the cream and allow to bubble for a few minutes. Taste and correct the seasoning, and add parsley and chives if used.

Note: Mushroom a la creme may be served as a vegetable, or as a filling for vol au vents, bouchees or pancakes, or as a sauce for pasta. It may be used as an enrichment for casseroles and stews or, by adding a little more cream or stock, may be served as a sauce with beef, lamb, chicken or veal. A crushed clove of garlic may be added while the onions are sweating.
Mushroom a la Creme keeps well in the fridge for 4-5 days.


Mix the Mushroom a la Creme with the spinach. Taste and correct seasoning.

Lay a pancake on a clean worktop. Put about 2 tablespoons of filling in the middle, fold in two sides and fold over the ends into a parcel. Repeat with the others. If the components are cold, reheat in a covered dish in a moderate oven. Serve with a little light Hollandaise Sauce.

Foolproof food

Pancakes with Butterscotch Sauce and Bananas

This basic pancake may be served with any other favourite accompaniments – lemon juice and castor sugar, jam, chocolate sauce, chocolate spread with chopped hazelnuts.

Serves 6 - makes 12 approx.

Pancake Batter
6 ozs (170g) plain white flour
a good pinch of salt
1 dessertsp. castor sugar
2 large eggs and 1 or 2 egg yolks, preferably free range
scant : pint (450ml) milk, or for very crisp, light delicate pancakes, milk and water mixed
3-4 dessertsp. melted butter

Butterscotch Sauce

4 ozs (110g) butter

6 ozs (170g) dark soft brown, Barbados sugar
4 ozs (110g) granulated sugar
10 ozs (285g) golden syrup
8 fl ozs (225ml) cream
2 teasp. pure vanilla essence

4 bananas

8 inch (20.5cm) non-stick crepe pan

First make the batter. Sieve the flour, salt and sugar into a bowl, make a well in the centre and drop in the lightly beaten eggs with a whisk or wooden spoon, starting in the centre mix the egg and gradually bring in the flour. Add the liquid slowly and beat until the batter is covered with bubbles. (If they are to be served with sugar and lemon juice, stir in an extra tablespoon of castor sugar and the finely grated rind of half a lemon).
Let the batter stand in a cold place for an hour or so - longer will do no harm. Just before you cook the pancakes stir in 3-4 dessertspoons melted butter. This will make all the difference to the flavour and texture of the pancakes and will make it possible to cook them without greasing the pan each time.
Next make the butterscotch sauce*
Put the butter, sugars and golden syrup into a heavy-bottomed saucepan and melt gently on a low heat. Simmer for about 5 minutes, remove from the heat and gradually stir in the cream and the vanilla essence. Put back on the heat and stir for 2 or 3 minutes until the sauce is absolutely smooth.
To serve
Heat the sauce, slice in the bananas, spoon over a pancake, roll up loosely or fold into a fan shape. Serve two pancakes per person.

* To save time you could of course serve the pancakes with one of the many excellent Irish made butterscotch or chocolate sauces on the market 


Top Tips

For Pancakes - Use a non stick pan, then you can flip to your heart’s content.
Add a tablespoon of melted butter to the batter and whisk well, no need to grease the pan between pancakes.
I know blueberries are totally out of season but if you do happen to pick up a punnet which has come all the way from Holland, mix 225g of cream cheese with a generous tablespoon of icing sugar, fold in about 100g of berries and use to fill some freshly made pancakes. 

Apple Juice – get delicious Karmine Apple Juice by post from Con Traas at Moorstown, Cahir, Co Tipperary – this terrific service is available anywhere in Ireland – 12 bottles of juice made from the Karmijn de Sonnaville apples grown on their own farm, come in a sturdy well-constructed box via An Post – I got a delivery myself and they arrived undamaged. You can order on the website www.karmine.com email:con@the applefarm.com Tel. 052-41459 Fax 052-42774

New Chief Executive for Food Safety Authority of Ireland

Dr. John O’Brien has been appointed Chief Executive of the FSAI and will take up office in June 2004. Dr. O’Brien is originally from Cork and has a BSc and PHd in Food Chemistry from UCC, as well as an MSc in Toxicology from the University of Surrey. He has a broad knowledge of risk assessment and food safety management at an international level together with communication expertise.