How about planning a delicious little Christmas Eve supper that can be slipped into the oven, something comforting to soothe your shattered nerves, when you are exhausted and fraught from trying to remember a zillion things, and doing your best to be all things to all men. A convivial family supper around the kitchen table is the true spirit of Christmas.

First pop a bottle or several of Prosecco into the fridge ‘just in case’ you feel like a little fizz. If a pot of tea seems more likely to hit the spot the bubbly will be well chilled for Christmas Day anyway.

French Peasant Soup would be delicious, its quite filling so if you opt for just soup and pud everyone could tuck into a second or even third bowl. While you are at it, make three or four times the recipe, it freezes brilliantly, little tubs are ideal and can be defrosted very quickly if some pals unexpectedly drop in and look as though they are not going to leave until they get fed!

For main course, a gratin would be easy and delicious. It takes a bit of putting together but it can of course be made ahead and just slipped into the oven until it is heated through and it is crunchy and bubbly on top.

Another alternative would be my sister Lizzie’s ‘supper in a pot’ which is so comforting and filling.

A green salad of winter leaves with a good punchy dressing made from really good extra virgin olive oil will make you feel less full so you have room for pudding. Dessert could be an Apple and Mincemeat Tart or maybe a Toffee and Date pudding with Butterscotch Sauce, or a Cool Yule Fruit Salad.

Alternatively forget pudding as such and just cut the Christmas Cake and enjoy a little slice with a glass of sweet sherry or ice wine.

Whatever the choice lets not forget to thank the good Lord for all the delicious food, spare a thought and share with those around us who are in need, and above all remember and reflect on the real reason for the celebration.

A very Happy Christmas to all our readers.

French Peasant Soup

This is another very substantial soup - it has 'eating and drinking' in it and would certainly be a meal in itself particularly if some grated Cheddar cheese was scattered over the top.

Serves 6

6 ozs (170g) unsmoked streaky bacon (in the piece)
Olive or sunflower oil
5 ozs (140g) potatoes, peeled and cut into ¼ inch (5mm) dice
2 ozs (55g) onions, finely chopped
1 small clove garlic (optional)
1 lb (450g) very ripe tomatoes, peeled and diced or 1 x 14 oz (400g) tin of tomatoes and their juice
Salt and freshly ground pepper
½-1 teasp. sugar
1¼ pints (750ml) homemade chicken stock or vegetable stock
2 ozs (55g) cabbage (Savoy is best), finely chopped

Garnish 
Chopped parsley

Remove the rind from the bacon if necessary. Prepare the vegetables and cut the bacon into ¼ inch (5mm) dice approx. Blanch the bacon cubes in cold water to remove some of the salt, drain and dry on kitchen paper, saute in a little olive or sunflower oil until the fat runs and the bacon is crisp and golden. Add potatoes, onions and crushed garlic, sweat for 10 minutes and then add diced tomatoes and any juice. Season with salt, pepper and sugar. Cover with stock and cook for 5 minutes. Add the finely chopped cabbage and continue to simmer just until the cabbage is cooked. Taste and adjust seasoning. Sprinkle with lots of chopped parsley and serve.

Mediterranean Peasant Soup

Add ½ Kabanossi sausage thinly sliced to the soup with the potato. ¼ lb (110g) cooked haricot beans may also be added with the cabbage at the end for a more robust soup.

Winter Green Salad with Honey and Mustard Dressing
For this salad, use a selection of winter lettuces and salad leaves, e.g. Butterhead, Iceberg, Raddichio, Endive, Chicory, Watercress, Buckler leaf, Sorrel, Rocket leaves and Winter Purslane Mysticana. Tips of purple sprouting broccoli are also delicious and if you feel like something more robust, use some finely-shredded Savoy cabbage and maybe a few shreds of red cabbage also. 

Honey and Mustard Dressing
6 fl ozs (150ml) olive oil or a mixture of olive and other oils, eg. sunflower and arachide
2 fl ozs (50ml) wine vinegar
Salt and freshly ground pepper
2 teasp. honey
2 heaped teasp. wholegrain honey mustard
2 cloves garlic

Mix all the ingredients together and whisk well before use.

Wash and dry the lettuces and other leaves very carefully in a large sink of cold water. If large tear into bite sized pieces and put into a deep salad bowl. Cover with cling film and refrigerate if not to be served immediately. Just before serving toss with a little dressing - just enough to make the leaves glisten. Serve immediately.

Note: Green Salad must not be dressed until just before serving, otherwise it will be tired and unappetising.

Lizzie’s Chicken Hot Pot

This basic technique may also be used with lamb or pork.

Serves 6-8

8 potatoes
4 medium onions, thinly sliced
2-4 carrots, peeled and sliced ¼" thick
4-8 ozs (110-225g) streaky bacon, cut into lardous
free range organic chicken ( 6- 8 portions, e.g. 4 chicken breasts and 4 thighs or drumsticks cut into manageable size pieces)
salt, freshly ground pepper
chicken stock 
few sprigs thyme

Medium-sized Le Creuset type casserole 

Preheat the oven to 230°C/450°F/Regulo 8. 

Peel the potatoes, four thinly and the others in thick slices. Arrange a layer of thinly sliced potatoes in the base of the dish. Season with salt and freshly ground pepper. 

A layer of thinly sliced onion comes next, then the carrot and bacon lardons, season again. Lay the chicken pieces on top. Another sprinkling of salt and freshly ground pepper and a sprig of thyme. Finally an overlapping layer of thickly sliced potatoes. Pour boiling stock over the lot to come about half way up the side. Cover. Put into the preheated oven and cook for 40-60 minutes or until the chicken is cooked. Remove the lid and continue to cook until the potato is crisp and golden on top. 

Toffee and Date Pudding with Butterscotch and Pecan Nut Sauce

Serves 6-8

225g (8oz) chopped dates
300ml (1/2pint) tea
110g (4oz) unsalted butter
170g (6oz) castor sugar
3 eggs, free-range and organic
225g (8oz) self-raising flour
1 teaspoon bread soda
1 teaspoon vanilla essence
1 teaspoon Espresso coffee powder

Butterscotch Pecan Sauce

110g (4oz) butter

170g (6oz) dark soft brown, Barbados sugar
110g (4oz) granulated sugar
285g (10oz) golden syrup
225g (8fl oz) cream
1/2 teaspoon pure Vanilla essence
50g (2oz) chopped pecans

20.5cm (8inch) spring form tin with removable base.

Set the oven to 180ºC/350ºF/gas mark 4.

Soak the dates in hot tea for 15 minutes. Brush the cake tin with oil and place oiled greaseproof paper on the base.

Cream together the butter and sugar until light and fluffy. Beat in the eggs, one at a time, and then fold in the sifted flour. Add the sieved breadsoda, Vanilla essence and coffee to the date and tea and stir this into the mixture. Turn into the lined tin and cook for 1-1½ hours or until a skewer comes out clean.

To make the Butterscotch pecan sauce: 
Put the butter, sugars and golden syrup into a heavy-bottomed saucepan and melt gently on a low heat. Simmer for about 5 minutes, remove from the heat and gradually stir in the cream and the vanilla essence and the pecans. Put back on the heat and stir for 2 or 3 minutes until the sauce is absolutely smooth.

To Serve
Pour some hot sauce on to a serving plate. Put the sticky toffee pudding on top, pour lots more sauce over the top. Put the remainder into a bowl, and to serve with the pudding as well as softly whipped cream.

Apple and Mincemeat Tart

The pastry is made by the creaming method so people who are convinced that they suffer from 'hot hands' don't have to worry about rubbing in the butter. Use it for a variety of fruit tarts. It can be difficult to handle when its first made and benefits from being chilled for at least an hour. Better still, if rested overnight.

Serves 8-12

Pastry
225g (8oz) butter
50g (2oz) castor sugar
2 eggs, preferably free-range and organic
340g (12oz) white flour, preferably unbleached

Filling
675g (1½lb) Bramley Seedling cooking apples
110g (4oz) sugar
⅓-½ jar mincemeat

egg wash
castor sugar for sprinkling

To serve
softly whipped cream
barbados sugar

1 rectangular tin, 18cm(7 inch) x 30.5cm (12 inch) x 2.5cm (1inch) deep or 1 x 23cm (9inch) round tin
Preheat the oven to 180°C/350°F/regulo 4.

First make the pastry. Beat the butter and sugar together by hand or in a food mixer (no need to over cream). Add the eggs and beat for several minutes. Reduce the speed and mix in the flour. Turn out onto a piece of floured greaseproof paper, flatten into a round wrap and chill. This pastry needs to be chilled for at least 1 hour otherwise it is difficult to handle. 

To make the tart
Use a little less then two/thirds of the pastry to line the choose tin.

Roll the pastry 3mm (1/8inch) thick approx. Spread a layer of mincemeat on the pastry. Peel, quarter and dice the apples into the tart tin. Sprinkle with sugar. Cover with a lid of pastry, seal edges, decorate with pastry leaves, stars, heart shapes or whatever takes your fancy. Brush with egg wash and bake in the preheated oven until the apples are tender, 45 minutes to 1 hour. When cooked cut into squares, sprinkle lightly with castor sugar and serve with softly whipped cream and Barbados sugar. Serve. 

Foolproof Food

Cool Yule Fruit Salad

Serves 10-15

Equal volumes of:

ripe melon, balled
ripe papaya, sliced thinly and cut into squares.
ripe mango, sliced
passion fruit seeds
ripe pineapple, diced
ripe kiwi, sliced and quartered.
ripe banana, sliced
pomegranate seeds 

A glass bowl

Lime Syrup

8 oz (225g) sugar
8 fl oz (225 ml) water
2 limes

First make the lime syrup. Put the sugar and water into a saucepan, stir over a gentle heat until the sugar dissolves, bring to the boil and simmer for 2 minutes; allow to cool. Meanwhile remove the zest from the lime either with a zester or a fine stainless steel grater and add to the syrup with the juice of the lime. 

Prepare all the fruits in individual bowls and cover with lime syrup.

Arrange the fruit in layers in a glass bowl. Cover and allow to chill and marinate for an hour at least.

To Serve
Ladle carefully into serving bowls so each guest gets a mixture of fruit. Serve alone or with softly whipped cream.

Cooks Book 

Breakfast, Lunch, Tea by Rose Carrarini published by Phaidon

This is the first cookbook by Rose Carrarini who co-founded the much-imitated delicatessen Villandry in London in 1988, and now serves her signature simple, fresh and natural food at Rose Bakery, the Anglo-French Bakery and restaurant in Paris. Rose holds a passionate philosophy that “life is improved by great food and great food can be achieved by everyone”. 

This book includes recipes for over 100 of Rose Bakery’s most popular dishes, from breakfast staples such as crispy granola to afternoon treats, including sticky toffee pudding and carrot cake, as well as soups, risottos and other dishes, perfect for a light lunch.

Banana Cake

You need very ripe bananas for this cake.

Serves 8

150g (5oz) unsalted butter, softened, plus extra for greasing
180g (6oz) caster sugar
3 eggs
3 bananas, about 350g (12oz) total weight, mashed
110ml (3½fl.oz) buttermilk, or a mixture of milk and natural yogurt
1 heaped teaspoon bicarbonate of soda (bread soda)
½ teaspoon salt
350g (12oz) plain flour, sifted
100g (3½oz) chopped walnuts

Preheat the oven to 180C/350F/gas mark 4
Butter a 25cm (10inch) loaf tin and line its base with parchment paper.

Beat the butter and sugar until they are light and creamy.
Add the eggs, one at a time, beating well after each addition. Mix in the bananas and the buttermilk or milk and yogurt.

Mix together the bicarbonate of soda and salt and carefully fold into the mixture with the flour, then fold in the walnuts.

Using a large spoon or spatula, combine the mixture well and spoon into the prepared tin.
Bake for about 45 minutes or until a knife inserted in the centre comes out clean.
Remove from the oven and cool the cake in the tin before taking it out.

Variation:

Chocolate and Banana Cake
Use the same recipe, and add 1 tablespoon cocoa powder to the flour. Fold in 200g (7oz) chopped dark chocolate at the same time as the walnuts.
Hot Tips

The Rural Food Company Training Network
Courses in New Product Development, Business Growth and Development and Intermediate Hygiene are being run by the Rural Food Company Training Network until March 2008, to help management and staff of food businesses avail of very specific training which will assist their business in achieving growth, sustainability and competitiveness. Funded through the Dept of Enterprise, Trade and Employment. For details email: ruralfood@eircom.net or contact Eilish Broderick at 068-23390 or 087-6386501, Rural Food Company Training Network, 58 Church St. Listowel, Co Kerry.

Holycross Stores, Holycross, Co Tipperary – near the famous Holycross Abbey – 5km from Cashel and 1.5km from Thurles
Ann Marie and Brian Walsh are now running the local village shop and have increased the range of products provided, including a deli and hot counter – hot lunches, soup, fresh salads and sandwiches. Their vision is to remain an independent retailer with a strong emphasis on providing fresh, Irish and local food wherever possible – they are sourcing local meats, cheeses, preserves, vegetables….086-8246310 

Brown Envelope Seeds

2007 Catalogue of Irish Certified Organic Vegetable Seeds now available
www.brownenvelopeseeds.com  Tel 028-38184 email:madsmckeever@eircom.net 
Limited stock so order early.

My builder is fond of saying that there’s no problem getting something done ‘if you have the bit of gear’. 

The same applies in the kitchen – many frustrated wannabe cooks could achieve much more if they had a few more bits of basic kit.

A food mixer can revolutionise the life of a ‘cup cake queen’. This is one piece of equipment that’s really worth the money. The Kenwood Chef has really stood the test of time here at the Cookery School. Most come with a blender which means you can whiz up silky soup in seconds - available from stockists nationwide.

A food processor is another ‘must have’ for the keen cook, we use Magimix and find them very reliable, there is some overlap in that one can make some cakes and biscuits with it, but overall it does different things from the food mixer. Home-made mayonnaise is made in minutes, it chops and purees in a twinkling. The extra blades allow you to grate and slice in a few delicious seconds.

For the growing number of ‘urban farmers’ and smallholders who are enjoying curing their own meat, a sausage making attachment would be a presie from heaven.
Less expensive but a year round pleasure would be a gift subscription to ‘The Smallholder’ www.smallholder.co.uk

For those who would like to keep a few chickens in their town garden the ultimate presie is An Eglu, a little ‘palais des poulets’ large enough to keep two chickens (with a little run). Its light enough to be moved around so your ‘flock’ are on a fresh patch of grass every day. www.omlet.co.uk 

For serious coffee buffs, an Espresso Machine that really works would be the ultimate presie – It’ll set you back five or six hundred euros, but think of the frothy cappuccinos and earth-moving espressos – perhaps the whole family could club together – Gaggia or Francis, Francis really work.

Another kitchen toy that’s worth the money is a Braun Multipractic – great presie for a student who likes to dabble in the kitchen of their bedsit. Soups, smoothies, purées, all become possible in a matter of minutes – about €30 from good kitchen shops and electrical shops. 

A decent Set of Knives are always a bonus but you must be sure to get a coin from the benefactor so that the knives don’t cut your friendship. Global, Henkel and Victorinox are some of the good brands, but no matter how brilliant the knife it won’t keep its edge for long if you don’t try and learn how to use a steel. 

A gift token for a Wine Course is also a good present, there are many offered around the country – we offer one on 12th December 2007 at Ballymaloe Cookery School with Colm McCann, Sommelier at Ballymaloe House, Mary Dowey’s very popular wine course at Ballymaloe House will run from 23-25 March and 20-22 April 2007, Tel 021-4652531. The Wine Development Board of Ireland run courses, www.wineboard.com . and local wine shops often run wine appreciation courses. Failing that, a wine guide, John Wilson’s ‘Best of Wine in Ireland 2007’, a must for Irish oenophiles, younger enthusiasts will want to find Matt Skinner’s ‘Juice’ in their stocking, Jancis Robinson’s Wine Course gives a good grounding for those who want a bit of all round general knowledge as well as to impress the pals.

A good food guide would also be a terrific present for food lovers – Georgina Campbell’s Best of the Best and her new Guide for Garden Lovers– the very best places to eat, drink and stay – are much respected as are John & Sally McKenna’s Bridgestone guides, the new Good Food Ireland guide has a terrific map to show the traveller where the Farmers Markets are, as well as restaurants that serve local food.

For Christmas stockings, a microplane grater is a must-have for every nifty cook. A Japanese mandolin is another serious cook’s gadget. Maldon or Halen Mon sea salt is a treat - Interior Living on Cork’s McCurtain Street,(021-4505819) sells little gift packs with salt cellar and spoon from €20. A bottle of Extra Virgin Olive Oil from Urru in Bandon or Mallow, or from Midleton Farmer’s Market – Mani, Brindisa, Colonna, L’estornell, a l’Olivier are names worth looking out for.

Pannetone and Panneforte de Siena, available at Cork Market as well as a million other temptations, are super stand-bys. A little bunch of Madagascar vanilla pods, hand-tied with raffia, an old-fashioned butter curler and butter knife, tea strainer and a packet of single estate tea, a perfect cheese like a Crozier Blue – with some membrillo and Ditty’s oatcakes or homemade cheese biscuits. A pot of delicious local honey is always a treat, and for the slightly-green fingered – a terracotta pot and a packet of seeds for herbs or salad mix. How about a hamper of Asian, Polish or African ingredients for the adventurous cook. A Green Saffron Curry Voucher can be bought in any of the outlets selling the spice range – Kinsale or Mahon Farmers Market, Handmade Wines in Lismore, River House Cahir, or at The Stephen Pearce Gallery in Shanagarry, vouchers for Curry Nights in Shanagarry also available - www.greensaffron.com  Tel 021-4645729, arun@greensaffron.com  

Now that Artisan, Local and Slow are currently the most desirable words in food, the ultimate food gift would be a membership of Slow Food, www.Slowfoodireland.com . 

Here are a few recipes which would make lovely Foodie gifts.

White Christmas Cake

This White Christmas Cake with its layer of crisp frosting is a delicious alternative for those who do not like the traditional fruit cake. It is best made not more than a week before Christmas.

140g (5oz) butter
200g (7oz) flour
¼ teaspoon baking powder
A pinch of salt
1 teaspoon Irish whiskey
1 teaspoon lemon juice
85g (3oz) ground almonds
6 egg whites
225g (8oz) castor sugar
85-110g (3-4 oz) green or yellow cherries
55g (2oz) finely-chopped home-made candied peel

White Frosting
1 egg white
225g (8oz) granulated sugar
4 tablespoons water

18 cm (1 x 7 inches) round tin with a 7.5 cm (3 inches) sides

Preheat the oven to 160C/325F/regulo 3.

Line the tin with greaseproof paper. Cream the butter until very soft, sieve in the flour, salt and baking powder, then add the lemon juice, whiskey and ground almonds. Whisk the egg whites until quite stiff; add the castor sugar gradually and whisk again until stiff and smooth. Stir some of the egg white into the butter mixture and then carefully fold in the rest. Lastly, add the chopped peel and the halved cherries. Pour into the prepared tin and bake for 1½ hours approx. Allow to cool, cover and ice the next day.

To make the white frosting: This delicious icing is just a little tricky to make, so follow the instructions exactly. Quick and accurate decisions are necessary in judging when the icing is ready and then it must be used immediately. Dissolve the sugar carefully in water and boil for 1½ minutes approx. until the syrup reaches the ‘thread stage’, 106-113C/223-236F. It will look thick and syrupy; when a metal spoon is dipped in, the last drops of syrup will form a thin thread. Pour this boiling syrup over the stiffly-beaten egg white, whisking all the time. Put the bowl in a saucepan over simmering water. Continue to whisk over the water until white and very thick. (This can take up to 10 minutes). Spread quickly over the cake with a palette knife. It sets very quickly at this stage, so speed is essential.

Decorate with Christmas decorations or crystallised violets or rose petals and angelica.

Ballymaloe Mincemeat Shortbread

Makes 16 or more if cut into small squares

Base
8 oz (225g) plain white flour
1 oz (25g) semolina
1 oz (25g) custard powder
2 oz (50g) icing sugar
7 oz (200g) unsalted butter, cut into cubes
cold water to bind

14 oz (400g) homemade mincemeat

Topping
4 oz (110g) plain white flour
½ oz (15g) semolina
½ oz (15g) custard powder
1 oz (25g) icing sugar
3½ oz (100g) unsalted butter
castor sugar for dusting

12 “ x 8 “ (30.5cm x 20.5cm) Swiss roll tin, greased

Preheat the oven to 180C/350F/regular 4/

To make the base. Sieve the flour, semolina, custard powder and icing sugar into a bowl. Mix well. Rub in the butter until the mixture resembles coarse breadcrumbs.

Carefully add just enough water to bring the mixture together. Press the mixture into the greased tin, making sure it fills into the corners of the tin.
Spread the mincemeat on top, leaving a narrow border all around.

Next make the topping. Sieve the flour, semolina, custard powder and icing sugar together and rub in the butter until the mixture is crumbly. Spread the crumble mixture on top of the mincemeat and gently press down with your fingers to ensure an even cover.
Bake in the preheated oven for 30-35 minutes until golden brown on top. Cut into squares while still hot. Sprinkle lightly with castor sugar and allow to cool in the tin

Home-made Crackers

Can be made ahead and kept in a tin to serve with cheese or give as a present with some cheese.

Makes 20-25 biscuits

8 ozs (225g) plain white flour
½ teasp. baking powder
½ teasp. salt
1 oz (25g) butter
1 tablesp. cream
Water as needed, 5 tablesp. approx.

Put the flour, salt and baking powder into a bowl. Rub in the butter and moisten with the cream and enough water to make a firm dough.
Roll out very thinly to one sixteenth of an inch approx. Prick with a fork. Cut into 

3 ½ inch squares with a pastry wheel. Bake at 150C/300F/regulo 2 for 30 minutes approx. or until lightly browned and quite crisp. Cool on a wire rack.

Note: For Wheaten Crackers – use 4ozs wholemeal flour and 4 ozs plain white flour.

Preserved Roasted Peppers with Basil

From Rachel’s Favourite Food at Home

These make a lovely gift potted into a pretty jar and topped up with olive oil.
Delicious as part of a salad, in a sandwich or thrown on top of freshly cooked pasta.
Makes 1 medium-sized jar

4 peppers of various colours, left whole
Olive oil
Basil leaves

Preheat the oven to 230C (450F). Gas Mark 8.

Rub some olive oil over the peppers, then pop on a baking tray in the oven. Cook for about 40 minutes, or until very soft and a little blackened. Take them out of the oven, put into a bowl, cover with cling film and leave to cool.

Once the peppers are cool enough to handle, take them out of the bowl and use your fingers to peel off the skin and break the peppers into quarters. Do not rinse in water or you’ll lose the flavour. Then, using a butter knife, scrape the seeds away, which should leave just the flesh. Layer in a sterilised jar*, adding basil leaves between the peppers, and fill up with olive oil.

*To sterilise jars, either put them through a cycle in your dishwasher, boil them for 5 minutes in a pan of water or place in an oven preheated to 150C(300F), gas mark 2 for 10 minutes.

Cooks Book

Mary Berry’s Christmas Collection – published by Headline

Mary Berry is well known as the author of more than sixty bestselling cookery books, including many on Aga cookery and has presented several television cookery series.

In her Christmas collection she combines her old winter recipe favourites such as Fillet of Pork with Cranberry and Madeira Gravy and Christmas Tarte Amandine with a variety of new and exciting dishes to spice up the season. Mary’s simple recipes and handy hints will take the pressure off entertaining. With an invaluable Christmas Day countdown, her ever-popular tips on preparing ahead and freezing, clues on how to turn leftovers into even more delicious meals, advice on cooking for a crowd and Aga instructions where appropriate, Mary will help solve all your Christmas cooking dilemmas, leaving you more time to enjoy some festive fun.

Scarlet Confit

This is Mary’s version of cranberry sauce – its is perfect with roast turkey or game. You can cook ahead and keep covered in the fridge for up to 3 weeks. You could freeze it too, for up to 3 months.

Serves 20

450g (1lb) fresh or frozen cranberries
225g (8oz) granulated sugar
Finely grated zest and juice of 1 orange
50ml (2fl.oz) port
50ml (2fl.oz) cider vinegar
A large pinch of ground allspice
A large pinch of ground cinnamon

Measure all the ingredients into a shallow saucepan. Bring to the boil and simmer gently for 10-15 minutes, stirring from time to time. Don’t worry if it looks a bit runny as it thickens when it cools.

Serve warm or cold.
If using an Aga, cook uncovered in the Simmering Oven for about 1 hour.
Darina's Fool Proof Food

Mulled Red Wine

Just before the festive season we make up lots of little packages with the sugar, spices and thinly pared lemon rind so when the pals arrive it’s just a question of opening a bottle of wine and warming it in a stainless steel saucepan with the spices.

You could attach a little pack of the spices to a nice bottle of red wine, with instructions for a lovely present. Leftover mulled wine keeps for a few days and reheats perfectly.
Serves 8 approx.

1 bottle of good red wine
100-110g (3 1/2-4oz) sugar, depending on the wine
Thinly pared rind of 1 lemon
1 small piece of cinnamon bark
1 blade of mace
1 clove

Put the sugar into a stainless steel or cast-iron saucepan, pour the wine over, add the lemon rind, cinnamon bark, mace and the clove. Heat slowly, stirring to make sure the sugar is dissolved. Serve hot, but not scalding otherwise your guests will have difficulty holding their glasses.

Hot Tips

Athy Farmers Market and Craft Fair – every Sunday 10am – 3pm, Emily Square, Athy in front of Athy Heritage Centre.

Christmas Weekend Open – Saturday 23rd and Sunday 24th and then closed till 28th January, resuming again every Sunday thereon. Unique selection of high quality local craft and food gifts – bread, cakes, puddings, pies, organic vegetables, free range meat and poultry…. Candles, cards, pottery, flowers, wreaths, watercolours, goats milk soaps, willow work, fabric crafts….

For Chocolate Lovers
French chocolatier Gwen Lasserre makes exquisite handmade chocolates in his shop on Main St. Schull, Co Cork (028-27853) – open every day 10-7 till Christmas – this year’s favourite flavours are fresh lavender and chilli.

Benoit Lorge also makes delicious chocolates at O’Connors Shop, Bonane, Co Kerry. Special orders taken for weddings etc. He also gives chocolate workshops for local children – just 5km from Kenmare on the Glengarriff Road. Tel 087-9917172 email:chocolatecrust@eircom .net 

O’Conaill Chocolates –made in Carrigaline Co Cork by the O’Conaill family, are available at Midleton, Mahon, Kinsale and Bandon Farmers Markets, their own shop in Frenchchurch St. Cork and outlets nationwide – 021-4373407

Eve Chocolates are another Cork favourite – Flair Confectionery, Magazine Road, Cork, Tel 021-4347781

A few weeks ago we picked the last of this year’s home grown tomatoes for the Farmers Market – they had gradually become less sweet as the weather turned more autumnal, but customers were distinctly crestfallen when they came to an end. 

Now its time to relish and enjoy the bounty of Autumn and Winter. Understandably in an age when everything is available in supermarkets year round, many people are confused about what exactly is in season.

Autumn and Winter bring an abundance of local root vegetables and brassicas. Citrus fruit and pomegranates come from warmer climes. Many types of game are now in season including wild duck, and the pheasant season opened on the first of November. When you are writing your shopping list, it is really worth zoning in on what’s in season. Produce will be fresher and usually less expensive. Even better it may well be local or at least Irish, so you have the extra bonus of the feel good factor of keeping the money in our own community.

The brassicas are particularly good at present – I am a huge fan of kale, curly kale, asparagus kale, red Russian kale and the elegant black Tuscan kale called Cavalo Nero. This family is bursting with goodness and has recently gained widespread attention due to the health-promoting, sulphur-containing phytonutrients. According to ongoing research these phytonutrients appear to have a role in preventing cancer. As well as that, kale is an excellent source of Vitamins K, A and C, and also contains copper, calcium and potassium as well as other trace elements, the highest of all the brassica family.

We eat kale raw in green salads, add it chopped to soups and cook it in lots of boiling salted water as a vegetable. 

Jerusalem artichokes are a wonder food, you are unlikely to find them in supermarkets, but may well find them in your local Farmers Market (several stalls in Midleton and Mahon Point had them recently.) They will be available until the end of January or February and are particularly delicious roast and served with game – pheasant, duck, partridge or venison. They also make great soups and gratins. They contain a high percentage of inulin, so are particularly brilliant for those who have recently been on a course of antibiotics. Inulin naturally replaces the good bacteria in our systems faster than any other food. The only disadvantage is that they are maddeningly knobbly and require considerable patience to peel. Just enjoy the process! Turn on the soothing strains of Lyric FM, grab a cup of coffee and a high stool and a peeler, and think of how delicious the end result will be.

Even amateur gardeners can grow a fine crop for next year, just pop a few into the ground about 6 inches deep and 12 inches apart in a place where you don’t mind them spreading. They grow effortlessly so you will have baskets full next year.

Pomegranates, (sometimes known as wine apples), also in season now, certainly don’t grow in this climate, they need the heat of the Mediterranean, but you never know with the dramatic global warming, who knows we may see them growing in Shanagarry before too long. Meanwhile we have to accept airmiles. They too have been shown to dramatically reduce cholesterol, so eat one a day or juice them as you would an orange. The jewel like seeds are also delicious sprinkled over starters or green salads, add to lamb or pheasant stews, or a dish of cous cous. They also embellish fruit salad or a simple bowl of natural yogurt.

Get the children involved, ask them to draw name cards with seasonal fruit or vegetables and produce a prize or give them pride of place on the table.

Kale and Parsley Pesto

Serves 12-16 approx.

1 lb (450g) fresh Kale
1 clove garlic crushed
2 teasp. sea salt
3-5 flozs (75ml) extra virgin olive oil
2 tablesp. parsley, optional

Strip the kale from the stalks and wash well. Put all the ingredients in a food processor and whizz to a thick paste. This can be made ahead and stored in a covered jar in the fridge for several days.

If you prefer a mellower flavour, blanch the kale in boiling salted water for 3 or 4 minutes, refresh and drain well and proceed as above.
Serve on freshly cooked crostini – see recipe

Crostini
May be served as a starter, main course or as part of a buffet.
3-5, â…“ inch thick slices of really good quality French baguette per person. Cut the bread diagonally rather than just into rounds.
Not long before serving, saute the crostini. Put a 5mm (1/4inch) of olive oil in a pan and heat until very hot. Cook the crostini a few at a time, turn as soon as they are golden, drain on kitchen paper. Arrange your chosen topping, garnish and serve a.s.a.p.

Cavolo Nero Soup

– from River Café Easy by Rose Grey and Ruth Rogers*

see Hot Tips

500g (18oz) Cavolo Nero 
4 garlic cloves
2 red onions
4 carrots
1 celery head
1 dried chilli
400g (14oz) tin Borlotti beans
Extra Virgin Olive Oil
½ teasp. Fennel seeds
1 x 200g (7oz) tin tomatoes
500ml (18fl.oz) chicken stock
¼ sourdough loaf

Peel the garlic, onion and carrots. Roughly chop 3 garlic cloves, the onion, pale celery heart and carrots. Crumble the chilli. Drain and rinse the beans.

Heat 3 tablesp. olive oil in a thick-bottomed pan, add the onion, celery and carrot and cook gently until soft. Add the fennel seed, chilli and garlic and stir, then add the tomatoes, chopping them as they cook. Season, and simmer for 15 minute, stirring occasionally. Add the beans and stock, and cook for another 15 minutes.

Discard the stalks from the Cavolo nero and boil the leaves in boiling salted water for 5 minutes, drain and chop. Keep 4 tablesp. of the water. Add the water and cavolo to the soup. Stir and season.

Cut the bread into 1.5cm slices. Toast on both sides, then rub with the remaining garlic and drizzle with olive oil. Break up the toast and divide between the soup bowls. Spoon over the soup and serve with more olive oil.

Note:
Rose and Ruth say that all bean soups are made more delicious with a generous addition of the spicy-flavoured newly pressed olive oil poured over each serving. Tuscan olive oil is pressed at the end of October, which is also when the frosty weather starts and cavolo nero is ready to be picked.

Curly Kale with Olive Oil and Garlic

From Cook by Thomasina Miers

Serves 4-6

3 tablesp olive oil
1 large head of curly kale, stem discarded, leaves rinsed and roughly chopped
3 garlic cloves, thinly sliced on the diagonal
1 fresh red chilli, seeded and chopped (optional)
Juice of ½ lemon
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

Heat the olive oil in a large saucepan or wok until really hot, and add the kale (it makes a great sizzling noise). Give it a good stir and add the garlic and chilli, if you like a bit of a kick. Stir fry for 7-8 minutes, taking care not to burn the garlic, then season with salt and pepper, and sprinkle over the lemon juice. Then eat up your greens.

Jerusalem Artichoke Soup with Crispy Croutons

Jerusalem artichokes are a sadly neglected winter vegetable. They look like knobbly potatoes and are a nuisance to peel, but if they are very fresh you can sometimes get away with just giving them a good scrub. Not only are they a smashing vegetable but they are also delicious in soups and gratins. They are a real gem from the gardeners point of view because the foliage grows into a hedge and provides shelter and cover for both compost heaps and pheasants!

Serves 8-10 

55g (2oz) butter
560g (13 lb) onions, peeled and chopped
225g (½ lb) potatoes, peeled and chopped
1.15kg (22 lb) artichokes, peeled and chopped
Salt and freshly ground pepper
1.1L (2 pints) light chicken stock
600ml (1 pint) creamy milk approx.

Garnish
Freshly chopped parsley
Crisp, golden croutons

Melt the butter in a heavy bottomed saucepan, add the onions, potatoes and artichokes. Season with salt and freshly ground pepper, cover and sweat gently for 10 minutes approx. Add the stock and cook until the vegetables are soft. Liquidise and return to the heat. Thin to the required flavour and consistency with creamy milk, and adjust the seasoning.

Serve in soup bowls or in a soup tureen. Garnish with chopped parsley and crisp, golden croutons.
Note: This soup may need more stock depending on thickness required. 

Braised Jerusalem Artichokes

Jerusalem artichokes are a perennial winter vegetable; once you plant them, they usually re-emerge every year and even spread if you are not careful. The flavour is particular good with game, beef or shellfish.

Serves 4

1 ½ lbs (675g) Jerusalem artichokes 
1 oz (30g) butter
1 dessertsp. water
Salt and freshly-ground pepper
Chopped parsley

Peel the artichokes thinly and slice ¼ inch (5mm) thick. Melt the butter in a cast-iron casserole, toss the artichokes and season with salt and freshly-ground pepper. Add water and cover with a paper lid (to keep in the steam) and the saucepan lid. Cook on a low heat or put in a moderate oven, 180°C/350°F/regulo 4, until the artichokes are soft but still keep their shape, 15-20 minutes approx. (Toss every now and then during cooking.)
Serve sprinkled with chopped parsley.

* If cooking on the stove top rather than the oven turn off the heat after 10 minutes approx. - the artichokes will continue to cook in the heat & will hold their shape. 

Chicken Salad with Pomegranate, Pine nuts and Raisins

Use up left over morsels of chicken (or turkey) in a delicious way.

Serves 8

700-900g (11/2-2lbs) freshly roast chicken 
1 pomegranate
75-110g (3-3 1/2oz) fresh pine nuts, pecans or walnuts
a selection of salad leaves including watercress, frisée and rocket leaves
lots of fresh mint leaves
50g (2oz) raisins, Lexia if possible

Dressing
6 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil or walnut oil
2 tablespoons, best quality white wine vinegar
1-2 teaspoons honey
1/2 teaspoon wholegrain mustard
salt and freshly ground pepper

If the chicken has been refrigerated, bring back to room temperature. 
Whisk all the ingredients for the dressing together. Cut the pomegranate in half and flick the seeds into a bowl - careful not to include any of the astringent pith.

Roast or toast the pine nuts, walnuts or pecans briefly, chop coarsely. Just before serving, sprinkle a little of the dressing over the salad and mint leaves in a deep bowl. Toss gently. There should be just enough dressing to make the leaves glisten. Taste. Add a little dressing to the pomegranate seeds, toss and taste, correct seasoning if necessary. Slice the chicken into chunky pieces. Sprinkle a little dressing over and toss gently. Combine the ingredients. Divide pleasingly between 8 large white plates. Sprinkle with toasted pine kernels roughly chopped pecans or walnuts. Serve immediately with crusty bread.

Variation
Pheasant, guinea fowl or free-range turkey would also be delicious, a few green grapes also make a good addition. A combination of walnut and sunflower oil may be substituted for olive oil in the dressing.

Foolproof Food

Agen Stuffed Prunes with Rosewater Cream

This ancient Arab Recipe from the Middle East will change your opinion of prunes - a pretty and delicious dish. Claudia Roden originally introduced me to this recipe when she taught at the school many years ago – we are very excited that she will be coming back to teach a one day course on Jewish Food on 30th August next year.

Serves 6

450g (1 lb) Agen prunes, pitted 
Same number of fresh walnut halves
150ml (¼ pint) each water and red wine or more or 300ml (½ pint) water
300ml (½ pint) cream 
2 tablespoons castor sugar
1 tablespoon rose blossom water
Decoration
A few chopped walnuts
Rose petals - optional

We’ve experimented with taking out the stones from both soaked and dry prunes, unsoaked worked best. Use a small knife to cut out the stones and then stuff each with half a walnut. Arrange in a single layer in a saute pan. Cover with a mixture of wine and water. Put the lid on the pan and simmer for about 30 minutes. Add more liquid if they become a little dry. They should be plump and soft. Lift them gently onto a serving plate in a single layer and let them cool. . 

Whip the cream to soft peaks, add the castor sugar and rose blossom water. Spoon blobs over the prunes and chill well. Just before serving sprinkle with rose petals and a few chopped walnuts. 
Just before serving, scatter a few chopped walnuts over each blob of cream, sprinkle with rose petals and serve well chilled.
This dessert tastes even better next day. 

Cooks Book

 Verdura- Vegetables Italian Style by Viana la Place published by Grub Street. www.grubstreet.co.uk  

Buy this Book from Amazon

Since its first publication in 1991 Viana La Place’s Verdura has become a much loved classic. Its 300 irresistible recipes represent the best of the Italian approach to vegetable preparation. The vegetables that she explores run from the familiar – artichokes, aubergines, radicchio – to the more exotic. Desserts are also included. 

Little Devil Olive Oil – Olio al Diavolino
How about this for a Christmas pressie for a foodie friend.

Makes 475ml/16 fl.oz

This is spicy olive oil at its finest. The raw oil is infused with the burning quality of chillies without using any heat. It looks lovely, a deep greenish gold, but it is very hot. Stir in a few drops just before serving to liven up the flavour of a soup or pasta.

475ml (16fl.oz) extra-virgin olive oil
Small handful of dried red chillies, crushed
Select a jar large enough to contain the olive oil. Pour in the oil and add the chillies. Cover the jar and let rest for 1 month, or until the oil is very spicy.

Hot Tips

Rose Gray and Ruth Rogers new paperback series –
Just launched by Ebury Press the River Café Pocket books at £8.99 – delicious recipes from the London’s acclaimed River Café – Pasta&Ravioli, Salads&Vegetables, Fish&Shellfish, Puddings, Cakes&Ice Creams. www.randomhouse.co.uk 

Gubbeen Venison Salami
Just tasted some of Fingal Ferguson’s Gubbeen Venison Salami – very good stuff and very moreish – a perfect standby for nibbling and entertaining or indeed present giving over Christmas.

Bandon Christmas Farmer’s Market on Saturday 16th December
There will be lots of tastings of seasonal produce including home made Christmas Puddings, mulled apple juice, a special oyster bar serving half a dozen freshly opened Roaring Water Bay Oysters with Tabasco and lemon juice, gourmet gift hampers, Martin Carey's award winning spiced beef and fresh duck from Ballydehob, free range turkeys from Beechwood Farm Kinsale and lots of other lovely stuff too! A raffle for a fresh turkey sponsored by Martin Carey, Carols from the children of Lauragh N.S and Santa and Mrs Claus will be coming too! With goodies for the children!

It gave me an oops in my tummy to see standing room only at the Organic Conference in Carrick-on-Shannon recently – what a change from the years gone by when there might be a scattering of 40 or 50 pioneers and a few reluctant, not to mention deeply sceptical officials from the department.

The worldwide increase in demand for organic produce is fuelling a growing interest in all things organic. In the US supermarkets simply cannot get enough produce.

When Walmart announced its plan to stock organic produce earlier this year few people believed that they were motivated by eco-friendliness – organic purists were concerned that they would force a dilution of the standards. Reality is that Walmart like all the multiples are keenly aware that customers have a genuine appetite for food that is free of pesticides, GMO’s and anti-biotic residues.

All over the world the trend is the same – in the UK the demand has skyrocketed. In the UK it has increased 1000 fold since 1993, to 1.6 billion sterling in 2006. Sales of organic produce in Tesco are rising at the rate of £7 million a week, up 30% on last year.

Irish consumers now spend an estimated €66 million on certified organic products and production is expected to increase significantly. According to a study commissioned by Bord Bia at the launch of Organic Food Week in Carrick-on-Shannon recently.

Bord Bia have allocated €1.5million euros to promote this sector. This was welcomed by delegates at the Conference but was generally considered to be inadequate, considering the obvious opportunities for Ireland the Food Island in this sector.

So what is driving the staggering growth in the artisan and specialist food sector?.

There is unquestionably a growing awareness of the importance of the food we eat to our health. Words that were considered to be esoteric a few years ago are now mainstream language.

Customers are asking more and more searching questions about how their food is produced and where it comes from. They want food with a story – for more and more people real quality must encompass a whole range of attributes – sustainability, animal welfare, fair trade, GMO free, anti-biotic and pesticide free, carbon footprint…..
At the farmers markets, more customers are interested in variety and are asking about breed and feed, nutritional content…. A growing number are purposely seeking out local food, in fact the sexiest words in current culinary jargon are local, artisan and slow.

Where to buy organic?

Directly from local producers at a local farmers market 
Organic box scheme 
On –line shopping on an organic website eg. www.ballybrado.ie  
From local supermarket

For best flavour buy local food in season. At present root vegetables, carrots, parsnips, celeriac, pumpkins, red and Savoy cabbage, kale, broccoli, leeks, citrus fruit, pomegranates…

Glazed Carrots

You might like to try this method of cooking carrots. Admittedly it takes a little vigilance but the resulting flavour is a revelation to many people.

Serves 4-6

450g (1lb) organic carrots, Early Nantes and Autumn King have particularly good flavour
15g (1/2 oz) butter
125ml (4fl oz) cold water
Pinch of salt
Good pinch of sugar

Garnish: 
Freshly chopped parsley or fresh mint

Cut off the tops and tips, scrub and peel thinly if necessary. Cut into slices 7mm 

(1/2 inch) thick, either straight across, or at an angle. Leave very young carrots whole. Put them in a saucepan with butter, water, salt and sugar. Bring to the boil, cover and cook over a gentle heat until tender, by which time the liquid should have all been absorbed into the carrots, but if not remove the lid and increase the heat until all the water has evaporated. Taste and correct the seasoning. Shake the saucepan so the carrots become coated with the buttery glaze.

Serve in a hot vegetable dish sprinkled with chopped parsley or mint.

Note: It is really important to cut the carrots into the same thickness. Otherwise they will cook unevenly.

Baby carrots:
Scrub the carrots with a brush but don’t peel. Trim the tails but if the tops are really fresh, leave a little of the stalks still attached. Cook and glaze as above, scatter with a little fresh parsley and mint.

Foolproof Food

Potato and Parsnip Mash

Serves 8

700g (1 1/2lb) parsnips
700g (1 1/2lb) fluffy mashed potatoes
Salt and freshly ground pepper
Chopped parsley
50-75g (2-3 oz) butter

Peel the parsnips thinly. Cut off the tops and tails and cut them into wedges. Remove the inner core if it seems to be at all woody, divide the wedges into 2cm (3/4inch approximately) cubes. Cook them in boiling salted water for 15-20 minutes. They should be quite soft. Drain. Mash with a potato pounder, add the mashed potatoes, a nice bit of butter and season well with salt and freshly ground pepper. The texture should not be too smooth.

Whole Pumpkin baked with Cream

From the River Cottage Cookbook by Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall

This is an incredibly simple and elegant dish, in which the finished ‘soup’ is scooped out from the whole baked pumpkin – rich, filling and satisfying, so ideal sustenance after some hard graft in the garden on a cold autumn day. You can use as big a pumpkin as will fit in your oven but be aware that if you use a real monster, judging the cooking time becomes hard and the risk of collapse increases greatly. You will use a huge amount of cream and cheese, too, so you need to have a lot of hungry people on hand. You can also make this recipe with small squash varieties such as acorn or Sweet Mama, and serve one per person. A medium pumpkin serves 4 to 6, generously.

1 medium (3-4kg/6-9lb) pumpkin or several smaller squashes (1 per person)
Up to 500g (18oz) Gruyere cheese, grated (depending on the size of your pumpkin)
Up to 1 litre (1¾pint)double cream (again depending on the size of your pumpkin)
Freshly grated nutmeg
A knob of butter
Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Slice the top off the pumpkin or squashes three-quarters of the way up and retain; this is your lid. Scoop out all the seeds and surrounding fibres from the pumpkin. Place the scooped-out pumpkin on a baking tray or in an ovenproof dish (which must have sides to catch any leaking cream – an accident that shouldn’t, but can, happen.)

Put enough grated Gruyere into the empty cavity of the pumpkin to fill about a third of it, then pour in double cream until the cavity is two-thirds full. Add a few gratings of nutmeg, a little salt and plenty of black pepper. Throw in a knob of butter and replace the lid, so the pumpkin is whole again.

Place in a fairly hot oven (190C/gas mark 5) and cook for 45mins - 1¼ hours, depending on the size of the pumpkin. Test for doneness by removing the lid and poking at the flesh from the inside. It should be nice and tender. At this point, the skin maybe lightly burnt and the whole thing beginning to sag a bit. Be wary: when the pumpkin is completely soft and cooked through, there is a real danger of collapse. The larger the pumpkin, the bigger the danger. Don’t panic if it happens – it will look at bit deflated but will still taste delicious.

Serve small squashes individually in bowls, with spoons to scoop out the flesh. Serve the larger pumpkin by scooping plenty of flesh and the creamy, cheesy liquid (the Gruyere comes out in lovely long, messy strings) into warmed soup bowls. Either way, serve piping hot. 

Yoghurt and Cardamon Cream with Pomegranate Seeds perfumed with Rose Blossom Water

Serves 8-10

425ml (15 fl ozs) natural yoghurt
230ml (8 fl ozs) milk
200ml (7 fl ozs) cream
175g (6 ozs) castor sugar (could be reduced to 5oz)
¼ teaspoon cardamon seeds, freshly ground - you’ll need about 8-10 green cardamon pods depending on size
3 rounded teaspoons powdered gelatine
Pomegranate Seed with Rose Blossom Water
1-2 pomegranates depending on size
a little lemon juice
1-2 tablespoons castor sugar
Rose blossom water to taste

Garnish: Sweet geranium or mint leaves

Remove the seeds from 8-10 green cardamon pods, crush in a pestle and mortar.

Put the milk, sugar and cream into a stainless steel saucepan with the ground cardamon, stir until the sugar has dissolved and the mixture is warm to the touch. Remove from the heat and leave to infuse while you dissolve the gelatine. 

Put 3 tablespoons of cold water into a small bowl, sprinkle the gelatine over the water, allow to ‘sponge’ for a few minutes. Put the bowl into a saucepan of simmering water until the gelatine has melted and is completely clear. Add a little of the cardamon infused milk mixture, stir well and then mix this into the rest. Whisk the yoghurt lightly until smooth and creamy, stir into the cardamon mixture.

Pour into a wide serving dish or a lightly oiled ring mould and allow to set for several hours, preferably overnight.
Meanwhile, cut the pomegranates in half around the Equator! Carefully separate the seeds from the membrane. Put the seeds into a bowl, sprinkle with just a little freshly squeezed lemon juice, add castor sugar and rose blossom water to taste. Chill.

If the cardamon cream has been set in a ring mould, turn out onto a chilled white plate. Fill the centre with chilled rose-scented pomegranate seeds. Garnish with sweet geranium or mint leaves or even prettier, garnish with crystallized rose petals. I’ve got a wonderful Irish rose called ‘Souvenir de St Ann’s” in Lydia’s garden. This rose has a bloom even in the depths of winter so I steal a few petals and crystallize to decorate this and other desserts. 

Book of the Week – Vegetables –the new food heroes
Buy this Book from Amazon
By Peter Gordon – published by Quadrille with photographs by Jean Cazals
The dishes in this book are designed to showcase vegetables and bring them centre stage. There are inspirational recipes for vegetables both familiar and unusual, humble and glamorous, as well as dishes to suit vegetables of all seasons.

Potato, Celeriac and Leek Gratin with Sage and Feta

Most root vegetables can be cooked like this, layered in a dish and flavoured with anything from herbs and cheeses through to spices and nuts. Then, you pour over boiling water, stock or double cream, seal tightly with foil and bake until the vegetables are cooked. The top may then be coloured under a grill. Choose a dish just large enough to hold everything, but one in which the liquids won’t boil up and out of the dish. Cut out a sheet of non-stick baking parchment the same size as the dish – this will come between the vegetables and the foil, which otherwise has a habit of sticking to the top layer of vegetables. This gratin is perfect with roast salmon or chicken.

Serves 4-6 as a side dish.

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus a little extra for the baking parchment
3 large baking potatoes, cut into 5mm (¼ in) thick slices
100g (3½ oz) feta cheese, crumbled *
Small handful of sage leaves, roughly shredded
350g (12oz) celeriac (about ½ of a large one) peeled and thinly sliced
½ leek, thinly sliced and rinsed if gritty
150ml (5fl.oz) boiling water

Preheat the oven to 180C/350F/gas 4. Brush the 2 tablespoons of olive oil over a suitable baking dish (approx. 1.5litres/2½ pints capacity) and arrange half the potato slices on the bottom of the dish. Scatter half the feta and sage on top, sprinkle with a little salt, then lay the celeriac slices on top of that, followed by the leek and the remaining feta and sage. Lay the remaining potato slices on top, pour in the 150ml (5fl.oz) boiling water, then lightly season (remembering the feta will be a little salty). Brush one side of a sheet of non-stick baking parchment the same size as the dish with a little extra olive oil and lay this side on top of the potatoes. Cover with foil and seal tightly.

Bake for 1½ hours, then remove the boil and baking parchment, and place the dish under a hot grill to colour the potatoes. Serve from the dish while piping hot.

You could use Knockalara cheese when making this dish.

Hot Tips

Last Sunday at Schull Farmers Market from 10-1 Niamh G was selling her Chocolate Chip Cookies - 
There she was in her spotless apron at her little stand displaying her cookies in a basket lined with a tea towel – beautifully presented cellophane packs with a colourful label and a picture of 11 year old Niamh - best before date, list of ingredients, everything just right - I managed to get her last couple of cookies before she sold out – it is wonderful so see such an enterprising young lady – we should encourage young entrepreneurs like Niamh – they are the future.

Christmas at Arnotts in Dublin

Well known as a shopping destination in the heart of Dublin, Arnotts is now on the map as a place to eat well and shop for good food. They now have La Brea Bakery Café, the first outside the US – they stock Nancy Silverton’s famous sourdough bread and other loaves as well as sandwiches and pastries. Sheridans Food Hall has also recently opened on the Lower Ground floor stocking gourmet dried produce, fresh ‘ready meals’, olives, wines, tarts and of course their huge cheese selection. A series of wine tasting evenings is planned between now and Christmas with David Whelehan of O’Briens wines. 

Ardrahan Lullaby Milk

Lullaby Milk produced by Mary Burns of Ardrahan near Kanturk has sleep inducing properties because of its higher melatonin content – widely available in Munster from most supermarkets – all Super-Valu, Dunnes and Tesco branches, some Spar and Centra and On the Pig’s Back in the English Market in Cork. 
Watch out for the new Duhallow Cheese soon coming on stream from Ardrahan – this is a mild flavoured semi-soft cheese made from unpasteurised cows milk.

This is the time of year when our Autumn Certificate class head off on their ‘school tour’. We are almost half way through the 12 week course, with a lively group made up of seven different nationalities. Much of the food they cook with comes directly from the school farm and gardens, or from local producers. Some smoke fish, or make wonderful farmhouse cheese, others rear free range chickens, ducks, geese and turkeys. The students have huge respect and admiration for these food heroes. They also appreciate the passion and sheer hard work it takes to provide these quality ingredients.

While I was assisting Philip Dennhardt in our ‘How to Cure a Pig in a Day’ course Rory O’Connell headed off at the crack of dawn with a bus full of sleepy students.

By the time they drove over the Vee Gap to Clogheen in Co Tipperary, they were wide awake and looking forward to the first stop at cheesemakers Anne and Dick Keating’s farm. Baylough is a hard territorial type cheese, hand made from cow’s milk. Up to last year the Keatings had their own herd, but they now buy in milk from the top class Friesian herd of Jim O’Leary of Ballybacon in Ardfinnan. This means they have more time to devote to cheese-making. Recently they have developed Baylough Select, this is a more mature cheddar type cheese wrapped in muslin in the traditional time-honoured way. Dick gave me a month old piece to taste recently and I was blown away by the flavour, I’m not surprised to hear that Anne can scarcely keep up with demand. The students arrived just in time to see the curd being cut. Anne and Dick explained the cheese-making process, from the pasture to the mature cheese. They were fascinated and full of admiration for the skill and hard work involved. This is a particularly busy time for the Keatings who also supply cheese for the Christmas hamper market. Despite that,

in his ‘spare time’ Dick manages to make home-made cider and fruit wines which he demonstrated to a class at the school recently.

Next stop – a restaurant that’s really causing a stir in foodie circles, the Old Convent Gourmet Hideaway in Clogheen town. Christine and Dermot Gannon ran Gannon’s restaurant in Cahir, Co Tipperary for 3 busy years. They were longing to move to the country so in Autumn 2005 they bought and began to renovate the old convent in Clogheen. There are seven lovely guest bedrooms. They have quickly built up an enviable reputation for their Tasting Menu of eight courses of modern Irish food, largely locally sourced. Christine explained to the students how they got started in the business and showed them around the Old Convent – the Chapel Dining Room, the Mother Superior’s Room, Goddess Powder Room….. Then they had a delicious Taste of Tipperary tasting lunch- Baylough Cheddar and Celeriac Velouté Shot with Truffle Butter, Ballybrado Organic Pork Salad with Crozier Blue Cheese and Clove Poached Pear with Toasted Pecan Nuts, Tipperary Organic Ice Cream Grasshopper Martini and The Old Convent Organic Chocolate Fondue. This was an invaluable insight into the restaurant business, they are open for dinner from Thursday to Sunday.

Back to Cork then for a tour of the English Market – this is always an endless source of fascination for our students as they go from stall to stall marvelling at the range of delicacies on offer – from traditional tripe and drisheen to the newcomers offering ethnic ingredients, as well as the terrific butchers, poultry suppliers and fish stalls. It’s a treasure on our doorstep – a food market serving the people of Cork. For an insight into the history and lore I recommend ‘Serving a City’ the story of the market written by Diarmuid and Donal O’Drisceoil, published last year.

Last stop was at Frank Hederman’s award-winning Smokehouse at Belvelly near Cobh, where they learned about the craft of smoking fish. Frank smokes delicious wild and organic salmon, mackerel, mussels and eel in the traditional way, they enjoyed a taste of all these delicious goodies.

Here at the Ballymaloe Cookery School we are immensely grateful to the farmers and other producers whose hard work enables our students to cook with top quality ingredients.

Baylough Cheese, Clogheen, Co Tipperary, Tel 052-65275, (see Hot Tips for stockists)

The Old Convent Gourmet Hideaway, Clogheen, Co Tipperary, Tel 052-65565 www.theoldconvent.ie  info@theoldconvent.ie 

The English Market, Princes Street and Grand Parade, Cork.

Frank Hederman, Belvelly Smokehouse, Belvelly, Cobh, Co Cork, Tel 021-4811089 shipping@frankhederman.com     www.frankhederman.com 

The Old Convent Caribbean Martini

At the Old Convent they serve these cocktails as pre-dessert appetisers, Dermot says the secret is to use the very best ice-cream, he highly recommends Paddy and Joyce O’Keeffe’s Tipperary Organic Ice-Cream and good quality vanilla pods are essential. You can vary the ice-cream flavour and the liqueur according to your taste, eg you could use Malibu, Crème de Menthe…… Don’t know what Mother Superior would say!

Makes 4

2 scoops Tipperary Organic Banana and Cinnamon Ice-cream
8 fl.ozs (225ml) cold milk
1 vanilla pod
Couple of shots of Galliano liqueur – to taste
To serve: 4 Martini glasses.

Frost the martini glasses by dipping the rims in lemon juice and then in coloured sugar.

Put the ice-cream into a blender.
Scrape the seeds from the vanilla pod into the cold milk to make vanilla milk, then pour into the blender.
Add the liqueur. 
Whizz all together until blended. Taste and add more milk or liqueur according to how strong you like it. 
Serve immediately.

Toasted Prawns with Baylough Select Cheese

With a bag of prawns in the freezer, you are never stuck for a quick meal. This recipe combines defrosted prawns, with melted cheese, bacon and spring onions, to make a very tasty snack.

Serves 3-4

1oz (25g) butter
2 cloves garlic, chopped
2 spring onions, chopped
4ozs (110g) mild bacon (back rashers), cut into strips
8oz (225g) prawns
2 dessertspoons lemon juice
Pinch of salt
½ teasp. Cayenne pepper

Sauce:
¼ pint (150ml) cream
2oz (50g) Baylough Select cheese

Melt the butter in a pan, add the chopped bacon, saute for 2 minutes, add the garlic and spring onions and cook for a further couple of minutes, do not allow the garlic and spring onion to burn. Add the defrosted prawns, sprinkle with lemon juice, salt and cayenne pepper and cook for a few minutes, until the prawns are no longer translucent. 

Add the cream and cheese to the pan. Heat until melted, then transfer to a lightly buttered ovenproof serving dish. Flash under a very hot grill under bubbling and golden. Serve hot with slices of wholemeal bread and a green salad.

Baked Suir Salmon and Smoked Baylough Cheese Pie

This recipe was devised by Linda Lynch of St Ailbe’s Vocational School, Tipperary Town who came first in Tipperary Schools Cooking Competition.

Serves 4

18oz (500g) fresh salmon fillet
9fl.oz (250ml) chicken stock
9fl.oz (250ml) cream
Salt, black pepper
3oz (75g) diced onion
4 hard-boiled eggs, sliced
18oz (500g) mashed potato
8 spring onions, chopped
3oz (75g) Smoked Baylough Cheese (or other smoked cheddar if you can’t get Baylough)

Cut the salmon into large dice and poach for 15 minutes in the stock and cream that has been seasoned.
Remove from the stock and place in the bottom of a medium sized pie dish.
Sprinkle on the diced onion and arrange the sliced hard-boiled egg on top.
Reduce the cooking liquor by one-third and pour this into the pie dish.
Mix the spring onions and in with the mashed potato and spread evenly over the top of the pie dish.

Bake in the oven for 30 minutes at 160C/325F/gas 3. Remove and sprinkle the grated cheese on top. Replace in the oven for a further 10 minutes.
Serve immediately.

Some menu ideas from Frank Hederman.

Smoked Mussels:

Pasta with Smoked Mussels and Roast Red Peppers 

Per person allow approx.
100g (3½ oz) pasta 
Half red pepper
5-6 mussels – they are very rich so that should be plenty

Frank suggests adding cooking some fresh egg pasta like tagliatelle, add roast red pepper and smoked mussels. There is no need to cook the mussels, they will heat through in the steam of the cooked pasta.

Smoked Eel:
Try them with crisp green bacon on dressed baby spinach leaves 
With celeriac and potato mash and crisp bacon on a warm vinaigrette-dressed potato salad

Smoked Mackerel:
With a salad or ripe cherry tomatoes 
In a fresh buttered batch bread sandwich

Smoked Salmon:
Frank thinks that his wild smoked salmon is best unadorned without even lemon or black pepper – but of course you can use it in your favourite recipe –

With savoury buttermilk pancakes, or boxty or potato cakes – with crème fraiche and chopped chives 
On poached egg crostini with buttery spinach and hollandaise 
Or on a platter of Frank Hederman Smoked Seafood

Foolproof Food

Winter Vegetable and Bean Soup with Spicy Sausage

Just the thing for the cooler days - We make huge pots of this in the Winter, I usually keep some in the freezer. Kabanossi is a thin sausage now widely available, it gives a gutsy slightly smoky flavour to the soup which although satisfying is by no means essential.

Serves 8-9 

225g (8ozs) rindless streaky bacon, cut into ¼ inch (5mm) lardons
2 tablespoons olive oil
225g (8ozs) onions, chopped
300g (10½ozs) carrot, cut into ¼ inch (5mm) dice
215g (7½ozs) celery, chopped into ¼ inch (5mm) dice
125g (4½ozs) parsnips, chopped into ¼ inch (5mm) dice
200g (7ozs) white part of 1 leek, ¼ inch (5mm) slices thick approx. 
1 Kabanossi sausage,* cut into one-eight inch (3mm) thin slices
400g (1 x 14ozs) tin of tomatoes
Salt, freshly ground pepper and sugar
1.7L (3 pints) homemade chicken stock, 
225g (8ozs) haricot beans, cooked * (see below)

Garnish
2 tablespoons (2 American tablespoons + 2 teaspoons) parsley, freshly chopped 

Blanch, the chunky bacon lardons, refresh and dry well. Prepare the vegetables. Put the olive oil in a saucepan, add bacon and saute over a medium heat until it becomes crisp and golden, add the chopped onion, carrots and celery. Cover and sweat for five minutes, next add the parsnip and finely sliced leeks. Cover and sweat for a further 5 minutes. Slice the Kabanossi sausage thinly, and add. Chop the tomatoes and add to the rest of the vegetables and the beans. Season with salt, freshly ground pepper and sugar, add the chicken stock. Allow to cook until all the vegetables are tender, 20 minutes approx. Taste and correct the seasoning. Sprinkle with chopped parsley and serve with lots of crusty brown bread.

Soak the beans overnight in plenty of cold water. Next day, strain the beans and cover with fresh cold water, add a bouquet garni, carrot and onion, cover and simmer until the beans are soft but not mushy – anything from 30-60 minutes. Just before the end of cooking, add salt. Remove the bouquet garni and vegetables and discard.

Book of the Week

Nigel Slater’s books – Real Cooking, Real Fast Food, The 30-minute Cook and Real Fast Puddings have all been refreshed and will be published by Penguin next week. 
From the delicious and nourishing recipes and suggestions in Real Food, to the inspiring collection of quick and mouth-watering desserts in Real Fast Puddings, freshness, simplicity and flavour permeate throughout.
Here is a delicious recipe from Real Fast Puddings –

Croissants with Hot Apples and Crème Fraîche

Minute for minute, probably the most delicious fast pudding in the book.

For 2

30g/1oz butter
1 large dessert (eating) apple
2 tablespoons caster sugar
2 large flaky croissants
3 tablespoons crème fraîche

Melt the butter in shallow pan. Halve and core the apple and cut into about ten segments. Cook the apple in the butter till tender, turning once to cook the other side, then add the sugar and cook over a high heat till the mixture caramelizes.

Warm the croissants under the grill, split each one in half, and sandwich together with the crème fraîche and some of the hot apple slices.
Spoon over any remaining buttery sauce, and replace the top halves. Eat while still hot.

Hot tips 

Baylough Cheese is available at Country Choice, Nenagh, McCambridge’s, Galway, On the Pig’s Back, English Market, Cork, Urru Foods, Bandon and Mallow, Hudsons Whole Foods, Ballydehob, West Cork. Super Valu, Poppyfield, Clonmel, and various Farmers Markets countrywide.

Helena Chocolates represents Ireland in international chocolate championships 
Dirk Schonkeren of Mayo-based Helena Chocolates, who is a Master Chocolatier, was the first competitor ever invited from Ireland to take part in the World Chocolate Masters, he didn’t win but it was a fantastic competition -“The Chocolate Oscars” is the light-hearted description of this event, but as Dirk explains it’s not something to take lightly at all, “It was a huge honour to be selected to represent Ireland”. Dirk, who is originally from Belgium, set up Helena Chocolates twenty years ago, manufacturing in Ballyvary, Co. Mayo, and selling through his shop in Castlebar and selected outlets countrywide. Tel: 094 9031270 Email: chocolates@anu.ie 

Red Stables Market, St Anne’s Park, Raheny, Dublin 5
Red Stables Art & Craft and Food Market is held every Saturday from 10-5. From Sunday 29th October an Arts & Craft Market will be held every Sunday from 10-5 and a special Christmas Market will take place each Sunday from from November 26th and on 3,10 & 17 December. Full details from redstables@gmail.com Or 086-805 5082

I’ve always loved the distinctive design of the tins of treacle and golden syrup on my kitchen shelf.
There’s something comforting and reassuring about a product and design that remains constant in our fast changing world.
The Victorian design of the Tate and Lyle tin has altered little over the years; although the tin itself was made from strong cardboard during the war years when tin was in short supply.
The Lyle’s tin is itself a piece of history. Its image of the lion and bees and the biblical quotation, testify to a distinctly Victorian image of moralism, industrial drive and budding concern for social welfare.
The tins were surprisingly strong. Legend has it that famous explorer Captain Scott took some golden syrup on his ill-fated Antarctic expedition in 1910. One of the cans was discovered by explorers with the syrup inside still in good condition in 1956.

Almost every day I reach for the red and gold tin to add a dollop of treacle to the yeast when I mix the Ballymaloe Brown Yeast Bread.
The green and gold syrup tin, consistent since 1883, also reminds me of boarding school, nostalgic memories of slathering golden syrup onto slices of Sister Marcella’s soda bread. Presumably it was cheaper than honey, but we loved its sweet, slightly malty taste.
Nowadays I drizzle it on pancakes and use in a whole variety of sweet treats like chocolate and toffee squares and flapjacks.
Here are a few of my favourite recipes to tempt you.

Florrie’s Chocolate and Toffee Squares

These much loved biscuits sometimes called Millionaire’s Squares are a fiddle to make, so get the maximum flavour for your effort by making them with butter and best quality chocolate.

Makes 24 or 32

Biscuit base
12 ozs (340g) self raising flour
8 ozs (225g) butter
4 ozs (110g) castor sugar

Toffee Filling
8 ozs (225g) granulated sugar (can be reduced to 6 ozs)
8 ozs (225g) butter
4 tablespoons golden syrup
1 tin Nestles full creamed sweetened condensed milk

Chocolate Top
6-8 ozs (170g-225g) Lesme, Callebaut or Valrhona chocolate, melted

1 large swiss roll tin 10 x 15 inch (25.5 x 38cm) 

First make the shortcake base.
Mix the flour with the sugar, rub in the butter and work until the mixture comes together. Alternatively, blend the three ingredients in a food processor. Roll the mixture evenly into the lightly greased tin. Prick the base with a fork. Cook in a preheated oven 1801C/3501F/regulo 4 for 15 - 20 minutes or until golden in colour and fully cooked.

Next make the filling.
Melt the butter over a low heat in a heavy bottomed saucepan. Add the sugar, golden syrup and lastly the condensed milk, stir after each addition and continue to stir over a low heat for the next 20 minutes approx. 

(The toffee burns very easily so don't stop stirring.)

When the toffee is golden brown, test by dropping a little blob into a bowl of cold water. A firm ball of toffee indicates a firm toffee, if its still a little soft continue to cook for a few more minutes but be careful if it gets too hard it will pull your teeth out later! When it reaches the correct stage pour it evenly over the shortbread base. Allow to cool. 

Melt the chocolate over a gentle heat preferably in a pyrex bowl over simmering water and spread evenly over the toffee. Decorate immediately with a fork to give a wavy pattern.

Cut into small squares or fingers when the chocolate is set.

Foolproof Food

Butterscotch Sauce

This irresistible sauce is delicious served with ice-cream. Also great with pancakes and sliced bananas or chopped nuts, eg pecans, hazelnuts or walnuts, or with sticky toffee pudding.

4 ozs (110 g) butter
6 ozs (170 g) dark soft brown Barbados sugar
4 ozs (110 g) granulated sugar
10 ozs (285 g) golden syrup
8 fl ozs (225 ml) cream
¼ teaspoon vanilla essence

Put the butter, sugars and golden syrup into a heavy-bottomed saucepan and melt gently on a low heat. Simmer for about 5 minutes, remove from the heat and gradually stir in the cream and the vanilla essence. Put back on the heat and stir for 2 or 3 minutes until the sauce is absolutely smooth. 

Serve hot or cold.

Note: This sauce will keep for several weeks stored in a screw-top jar in the fridge.

Ballymaloe Brown Yeast Bread

When making Ballymaloe brown yeast bread, remember that yeast is a living organism. In order to grow, it requires warmth, moisture and nourishment. The yeast feeds on the sugar and produces bubbles of carbon dioxide which causes the bread to rise. Heat of over 50˚C will kill yeast. Have the ingredients and equipment at blood heat. White or brown sugar, honey golden syrup, treacle or molasses may be used. Each will give a slightly different flavour to the bread. At Ballymaloe we use treacle. The dough rises more rapidly with 30g (1oz) yeast than with 25g (¾oz) yeast.

We use a stone ground wholemeal. Different flours produce breads of different textures and flavour. The amount of natural moisture in the flour varies according to atmospheric conditions. The quantity of water should be altered accordingly. The dough should be just too wet to knead - in fact it does not require kneading. The main ingredients - wholemeal flour, treacle and yeast are highly nutritious.

Note: Dried yeast may be used instead of baker's yeast. Follow the same method but use only half the weight given for fresh yeast. Allow longer to rise. Fast acting yeast may also be used, follow the instructions on the packet.

Makes 1 loaf
450g (16oz) wholemeal flour OR
400g (14oz) wholemeal flour plus 50g (2oz) strong white flour
425ml (15floz) water at blood heat (mix yeast with 140ml (5floz) lukewarm water approx.)
1 teaspoon black treacle or molasses
1 teaspoon salt
30g (3/4oz -1oz) fresh non GM yeast

sesame seeds – optional

1 loaf tin 13x20cm (5x8inch) approx.
sunflower oil

Preheat the oven to 230C/450F/gas mark 8.

Mix the flour with the salt. The ingredients should all be at room temperature. In a small bowl or Pyrex jug, mix the treacle with some of the water, 140ml (5floz) for 1 loaf and crumble in the yeast.

Sit the bowl for a few minutes in a warm place to allow the yeast to start to work. Grease the bread tins with sunflower oil. Meanwhile check to see if the yeast is rising. After about 4 or 5 minutes it will have a creamy and slightly frothy appearance on top. 

When ready, stir and pour it, with all the remaining water, into the flour to make a loose-wet dough. The mixture should be too wet to knead. Put the mixture into the greased tin. Sprinkle the top of the loaves with sesame seeds if you like. Put the tin in a warm place somewhere close to the cooker or near a radiator perhaps. Cover the tins with a tea towel to prevent a skin from forming. Just as the bread comes to the top of the tin, remove the tea towel and pop the loaves in the oven 230C/450F/gas mark 8 for 50-60 minutes or until it looks nicely browned and sound hollow when tapped. The bread will rise a little further in the oven. This is called “oven spring”. If however the bread rises to the top of the tin before it goes into the oven it will continue to rise and flow over the edges. 

We usually remove the loaves from the tins about 10 minutes before the end of cooking and put them back into the oven to crisp all round, but if you like a softer crust there's no need to do this.

Makes 4 large or 5 smaller loaves
1.8 kg (4lb) wholemeal flour OR
1.5 kg (3 1/2lb) wholemeal flour plus
225g (1/2lb) strong white flour
1.6-1.7litre (2 3/4-3pints) approx. water at blood heat – use 285ml (1/2 pint) of the lukewarm water to mix with the yeast
1 tablespoon salt
2-3 well rounded teaspoons black treacle
50-100g (2-3oz) non GM yeast

sesame seeds (optional)

4 or 5 loaf tins 13x20 (5x8inch) approx.

Elizabeth Mosses Gingerbread
Makes 2 loaves

1 lb (450g) flour
1/2 teasp. salt
1 1/2 teasp. ground ginger
2 teasp. baking powder
1/2 teasp. bread soda
1 fistful of sultanas if liked
8 ozs (225g) soft brown sugar
6 ozs (170g) butter, cut into cubes
3/4 lb (340g) treacle
1/2 pint (300ml) milk
1 egg, free range if possible

2 x 9inch (23cm) x 5inch (12.5cm) x 2inch (5cm) loaf tins lined with silicone paper

Preheat the oven to 180C\350F\regulo 4.

Sieve all the dry ingredients together. Gently warm the brown sugar with the cubed butter and treacle. Then add milk. Allow to cool a little and stir into the dry ingredients, add the beaten egg and the sultanas if desired. Mix very thoroughly and make sure that there are no little lumps of flour left. Bake in one or two lined loaf tins for approx. 1 hour in a moderate oven.
This gingerbread keeps very well. 

Hot Tips

Pig Out Day Courses with Frank Krawczyk
Frank, one of Ireland’s best known and most respected salami and sausage makers will share the secrets of his art during a one-day action packed demonstration using every single part of a pig to produce a huge range of pork delicacies. Courses will be held on November 11th and 25th, enquiries to Frank Krawczyk, Derreenatra, Schull, Co Cork, Tel 028-28579 email; frankk@oceanfree.net  

Glebe Brethan
An artisan gruyere-type cheese made from Montbeliarde cow’s milk has won a Gold Medal and a Major Category Award for Best New Cheese at the recent prestigious British Cheese Awards. Glebe Brethan is made on the Tiernan family farm in Dunleer, Co Louth where they have a long tradition of dairying. Tel Mairead or David Tiernan 041-6851157 maireadtiernan@eircom.net  

The first Soil Association Food Festival to be held in Scotland is taking place in Glasgow on 4 and 5 November. It promises to showcase the best in organic products in the run-up to the busy Christmas period. With Scotland accounting for over 50% of organically managed land in the UK there will be plenty of tasty organic food and drink on offer, as well as talks, tastings and much more. WhyOrganic[whyorganic@news.whyorganic.org]

Darina’s book of the week
Duchy Originals Cookbook by Johnny Acton and Nick Sandler, published by Kyle Cathie.
Duchy Originals was founded by Prince Charles in 1990. The company had a clear mission: to promote top-quality British food produced according to the principles of sustainable agriculture. The venture has succeeded beyond all expectations. Since making its debut with a delicious oaten biscuit made from organic grain grown on the Prince’s Gloucestershire farm, Duchy Originals has expanded its range to include more than 200 products, from Scottish heather honey to Essex Bronze turkeys. It is now one of Britain’s leading premium and organic food brands.

The recently published, Duchy Originals Cookbook , enshrines the two principles that have guided the brand since its inception: to combine traditional wisdom with contemporary creativity and to encourage people to think about where their food has come from. Following the rhythms of the seasons, the authors Johnny Acton and Nick Sandler, spent a year immersed in the Duchy Originals world. They visit Duchy suppliers throughout the UK, from the Amiss family in Devon with their clouds of white geese to the venerable Walkers biscuit makers of Speyside in Scotland.

Ginger Nuts

This recipe produces a soft, chewy ginger nut. These biscuits must not be overcooked or they will lose their ‘juiciness’. Duchy Originals don’t currently sell ginger nuts, but if they did, they would be as good as these.

Makes 35-40 biscuits

You will need a silicone sheet or a well-greased baking tray and a wire rack.

150g (5½ oz) light muscovado sugar
50g (2oz) sesame seeds
15g (¾oz) dried ginger
50g (2oz) desiccated coconut
150g (5½oz) golden syrup
150g (5½oz) unsalted butter
200g (7oz) plain flour

Preheat the oven to 140C/290F/gas mark 2

Combine the sugar, sesame seeds, ginger and desiccated coconut in a large bowl.
Melt the golden syrup and butter together and combine with the above ingredients.
Add the flour and stir into a thick paste. Pick up a little bit of the dough with a tablespoon and roll into a ball (a 15-20g(½-⅓oz) ball will make a medium-sized biscuit)

Place the balls of biscuit mix on the baking tray, quite well spaced because they will spread during cooking.
Bake immediately for 15 minutes. You don’t want the biscuits to brown. If they do, you are cooking them for too long or on too high a heat.

When the biscuits come out of the oven they are a little flimsy so let them rest for a minute or two before you transfer them to cool on a wire rack.
The ginger nuts will keep very well for a week or two in an airtight container.

Sally Barnes of Woodcock Smokery near Skibbereen, beat over 4,500 entries to win the title of Supreme Champion,
More news from Carmel Somers

I’ve only tasted saké once or twice in Japanese restaurants, it seemed to be the appropriate beverage to drink with a Japanese meal but what I tasted was distinctly underwhelming. It came in a porcelain ‘bud vase’ and was served warm in little thimble like containers, a drink to be endured rather than enjoyed. 
Saké has played a central role in Japanese life for over 2,000 years, so I knew there had to be something more exciting on offer.

Well, as luck would have it, I recently received a beautifully embossed invitation from the Japanese Ambassador to a Saké Tasting at Kappa-ya in Galway city. This little restaurant, owned by Junichi Yoshiyagawa and Yoshimi Hayakawa, has been on my ‘must do’ list for over a year now. Good news travels fast in the restaurant world and I’d heard about the delicious food that was making waves in foodie circles in Galway, so – a double whammy.

Saké is Japan’s national drink, its most ancient and sacred beverage. Even today saké plays a profound role in native Shinto belief. Tiny cups of saké are placed as offerings in domestic shrines at festive times of the year. In the Shinto wedding ceremony, it is the exchange of cups and the drinking of saké that seals the marriage vows.

Saké is a clear liquid made from fermented rice and water with an alcohol content of 14-17%. Steamed white rice is inoculated with a special mould (koji kabi; Aspergillus oryzae) and then fermentation occurs. It takes 45-60 days to produce saké from start to finish. There is no ageing period involved. Unlike wine or distilled spirits, saké can be drunk immediately, in fact some people believe that it is best drunk within three months of bottling. Saké has no vintage years and is best drunk within a year of being made. Unlike wine, ageing doesn’t enhance the flavour. Because it is fermented rather than distilled, it should be drunk reasonably quickly once the bottle is opened.

The best saké is made from the finest rice and the purest water. Much of Japan’s saké is mass produced nowadays, but there are still some traditional breweries which continue to produce saké in a time honoured way.

Recently I met Mr Kujeihi Kuno, the current director of Banjo Jozo, founded in 1647. He is the fifteenth generation to bear the family’s professional name, and the ninth generation to specialize in saké production. This innovative traditionalist brought his artisan sakés from Japan and proudly served them with Junichi’s delicious food. 

Not one was served lukewarm, some were chilled, others enjoyed at room temperature. Each was fresh and delicious with hints of melon, bitter almonds, seaweed and spices – the experience was a revelation after my earlier experiences with warm sweet saké. Hopefully these superb sakés will be available on the Irish market before too long.

From the cook’s point of view, saké has many desirable attributes. The Japanese have long been aware that rice wine is a tenderizer. It is one of the ‘big 4’ of Japanese cooking ingredients, coupled with dashi stock, soy sauce and miso fermented bean paste. The amino acids in the saké tenderize. Saké also has the effect of repressing saltiness, takes away strong smells and helps to eliminate fishy tastes. It also makes a delicious aperitif, but carefully partnered with Junichi’s Japanese food as chosen by Enrico Fantasia, it was sublime. Contact the Japanese Embassy for details of availability – 01-2028300.

Kappa-ya, 4 Middle Street, Galway. Tel 086-3543616 
email; kappaya@eircom.net  

Here is a recipe from Kappa-ya

Tori no sakamushi (Steamed Chicken)
Serves 1

1 free range chicken breast

Sake 50cc
Salt & Pepper pinch
Ginger 1 slice, crushed
Garlic 1 slice, crushed
Leek 10cm, chopped
Scallions half bunch finely chopped
Sauce; Ponzu:Sesame oil=2:1

Season the chicken breast with salt and freshly ground pepper and put onto a deep plate.
Cover the chicken with saké.
Sprinkle the ginger, garlic and leeks onto the chicken, then cover the plate with cling film.

Steam it in the oven or steamer for 15-20min.

Leave the chicken in the sake to cool, (in this process, all flavour goes into the chicken) Cut chicken into bite size pieces. It will be delicious to eat at room temperature or re-heated. Put chopped scallions into a bowl of cold water for 5 minutes to remove the bitterness. Strain.
Spoon the sauce over the chicken and sprinkle with the chopped scallions.

Coincidentally I just got a copy of a new Japanese Cookbook - Japanese Pure and Simple by Kimiko Barber, published by Kyle Cathie. 
Buy this Book from Amazon

Japanese food is synonymous with great health – from fighting the effects of ageing, to reducing the risk of cancer and shedding excess pounds. The benefits of the Japanese diet are out in the press, and its unique combinations and subtle, sophisticated flavours have created a huge market for trendy sushi bars and Japanese restaurants. But the food itself is not complicated, and once you understand the washoku philosophy of food, there is no dish that cannot be made in your home – which, let’s face it, is the most nourishing, healthy way to feed yourself and family.

Kimiko Barber was born in Kobe, Japan and arrived in UK in 972. After over ten years in investment banking in both London and Tokyo, a chance visit to Books for Cooks, a Mecca for foodies in Notting Hill, inspired her to change her career and focus on cooking and entertaining. She teaches Japanese and Asian fusion cooking in various cooking schools. Her first book Sushi Taste and Technique won the bronze award in Best Food Book category in Jacob’s Creek World Food Media Awards. She is an enthusiastic organic kitchen gardener.

Here are some recipes from the book.

Seared Beef Salad with Watercress and Grapefruit
This cooking method is called tataki, which literally means ‘to hit’ or ‘to beat’: you hit the meat with the palm of your hand to flatten and tenderise it. Traditionally the seared meat is plunged into iced water to stop further cooking and to tighten it. ‘But recently I have used rice vinegar instead – the purpose of searing is not to cook the meat through but to burn off the fat and seal in the taste, whereas plunging it in ice water will congeal the fat you are trying to get rid of’ (Kimiko Barber).

200g (7oz) rump or sirloin steak
1 teaspoon vegetable oil
Salt and black pepper
2 tablespoons rice vinegar
1 grapefruit, segmented
100g (3½oz) watercress, trimmed
100g (3½oz) rocket
1 pack of salad cress

For the salad dressing:
Juice of 1 grapefruit
100g (3½oz) grated fresh ginger juice*
1 teaspoon sugar
4 tablespoons soy sauce

Take the meat out of the fridge and let it come to room temperature (as cold meat is tough and takes longer to cook).

Brush the meat with the vegetable oil and rub with salt and pepper. Heat a griddle pan over a high heat and sear the meat on both sides. Place the meat on a chopping board and let it cool enough to handle. With a sharp knife, slice the meat into 5mm (¼in) thick slices and pour over the rice vinegar. Separate each slice and give it a light but firm slap with the palm of your hand.

Remove the pellicle (thin skin) from each grapefruit segment. Put the watercress, rocket, salad cress and grapefruit in a salad bowl and arrange the meat on top. Mix the dressing ingredients, pour over the salad, toss and serve.

*To extract the juice from grated ginger, simply squeeze it and discard the fibrous remains.

This recipe can work very well as a main course for a smart dinner party. You can change the combination of salad to suit your preference.

Teriyaki Pork Steak
Succulent tender pork steak is perfectly matched with nutty sweet teriyaki sauce and a dash of rice vinegar highlights the tastes and flavours.

4 pork steaks, each weighing 125g (4½oz)
4 tablespoons cornflour
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
4 tablespoons rice vinegar
Handful of watercress

For the teriyaki sauce:
4 tablespoons sake
4 tablespoons mirin
2 tablespoons sugar
4 tablespoons soy sauce
50g (2oz) fresh ginger, peeled and grated

Take the meat out of the fridge at least 30 minutes before cooking. Dust the steaks with the cornflour. Heat a frying pan over a moderate/low heat and add the vegetable oil. Sauté the steaks for 3 minutes on each side, then reduce the heat and cover the pan with a lid to steam-cook for a further 5 minutes.

Remove the lid and add all the ingredients for the teriyaki sauce. Shake the pan to coat the steaks evenly with the sauce and reduce it a little. Add the rice vinegar and stir the sauce. Remove the steaks and cut them into bite-sized pieces. Arrange the meat on individual plates, drizzle over the sauce and serve with a garnish of watercress.

This teriyaki cooking sauce works well with lamb chops. Serve with cauliflower miso gratin or leek and carrot mini frittatas.

Prawn, pomegranate and green chilli sushi
The pomegranate originates in the Middle East and is widespread throughout Asia. They were brought to Japan from China in the twelfth century; the flowers were used for ornamental and the fruits for medicinal purposes. There are many references to them in mediaeval Japanese paintings and literature.

2 ripe pomegranates
4 tablespoons pomegranate juice
350g (12oz) prepared sushi rice – see recipe 
200g (7oz) cooked prawns
1-2 large green chillies, finely chopped
Few sprigs of coriander and mint leaves

Halve the pomegranates horizontally, separate the individual fruitlets from the rind and reserve. Moisten the inside of a large mixing bowl with 2 tablespoons of the pomegranate juice to stop the rice sticking. Add the prepared sushi rice, sprinkle over the remainder of the pomegranate juice to separate the rice and mix. Add the cooked prawns, chopped chillies and reserved pomegranate and mix with a flat spatula in a cut-and-turn motion. Transfer the sushi mixture into either a large serving dish or individual dishes. Garnish with the coriander and mint leaves and serve.
This recipe works equally well with white crabmeat instead of prawns.

Isaac’s Sushi Rice
450g (1lb) sushi rice ” No 1 Extra Fancy”

600ml (1 pint) water

Vinegar Water

50ml (2fl oz) rice wine vinegar
1½ tablespoons sugar
2½ teaspoons salt

Rinse the rice for 10 minutes in a colander or sieve under cold running water or until the water becomes clear.

‘Wake up’ the rice by sitting it in 600ml (1pint) cold water for 30 to 45 minutes. In the same water, bring to the boil and then cook for 10 minutes until all the water has been absorbed. Do not stir, do not even take off the lid. Turn up the heat for 10 seconds before turning the heat off. Remove the lid, place a tea towel over the rice, replace the lid and sit for 20 minutes.

Mix the rice wine vinegar, sugar and salt together in a bowl until dissolved. Turn the rice out onto a big flat plate (preferably wooden). While the rice is still hot pour the vinegar solution over the rice and mix the rice and vinegar together in a slicing action with the aid of a wooden spoon. Don’t stir. You must do it quickly preferably fanning the rice with the fan. This is much easier if you have a helper. Allow to cool on the plate and cover with kitchen paper or a tea towel. (It will soak up the liquid as it cools.)

Foolproof Food

Crab Apple or Bramley Apple Jelly

Apples are very plentiful this autumn – a delicious way to use up the windfalls.

Makes 2.7-3kg (6-7 lb)

2.7kg (6 lb) crab apples or wind fall cooking apples
2.7L (43pints) water
2 unwaxed lemons
sugar

Wash the apples and cut into quarters, do not remove either peel or core. Windfalls may be used, but make sure to cut out the bruised parts. Put the apples into a large saucepan with the water and the thinly pared rind of the lemons, cook until reduced to a pulp, approx. 2 hour.

Turn the pulp into a jelly bag* and allow to drip until all the juice has been extracted - usually overnight. Measure the juice into a preserving pan and allow 450g (1lb) sugar to each 600ml (1pint) of juice. Warm the sugar in a low oven.

Squeeze the lemons, strain the juice and add to the preserving pan. Bring to the boil and add the warm sugar. Stir over a gentle heat until the sugar is dissolved. Increase the heat and boil rapidly without stirring for about 8-10 minutes. Skim, test and pot immediately.
Flavour with sweet geranium, mint or cloves as required. 

Hot Tips

Apology – I neglected to mention the full title of the Lebanese Cookbook in my article of 30th September – it is The Lebanese Cookbook by Hussien Dekmak, published by Kyle Cathie.

Irish Seedsavers Association (ISSA) will hold an Apple Tasting on Sunday 15th October 12 noon – 5pm at Capparoe, Scariff, Co Clare
Over 100 varieties of rare, native apples are grown by Seed Savers. At this time of year the apples are harvested and in peak condition. Seed Savers invite you to join them tomorrow and take part in a tasting and trial and give your opinion on the apples. Guided tours of the heritage gardens and orchards will be taking place. If you have any windfall/damaged apples bring them with you and with their state of the art apple press, they can turn them into the best apple juice you have ever tasted!
No booking necessary, cost €5. Tel 061-921866 info@irishseedsavers.ie  www.irishseedsavers.ie  

Pig in a Day Course at Ballymaloe Cookery School on Wednesday 18th October.
Philip Dennhardt a brilliant young butcher from Stuttgart will show how to butcher and cure one of our own free range pigs from nose to tail – dry and wet cured bacon, pancetta, ham, homemade sausages, salami, chorizo, brawn, pate de campagne …. Tel 021-4646785 info@cookingisfun.ie  www.cookingisfun.ie 

Farmleigh House, Catstlknock, Dublin 15 – Check out their impressive foodie line-up for Autumn.
Enjoy lunch at new Boathouse Restaurant or coffee at the Motorhouse café – see www.farmleigh.ie  Tel -01 8155966 or Boathouse Tel 01-8157255

Great Taste Awards in London 
At last month’s awards Sally Barnes of Woodcock Smokery near Skibbereen, beat over 4,500 entries to win the title of Supreme Champion, Best Irish Food (sponsored by Bord Bia) and best chilled product – www.woodcocksmokery.com 
Of the 510 gold medals awarded by over 400 food experts, 116 went to Irish producers.

More news from Carmel Somers at the Good Things Café in Durrus, West Cork 
2 Day practical Kitchen Miracle programme. 
Carmel has slotted in an extra course before Christmas. The new course date is 28th & 29th October (the October bank holiday weekend).Limited places available.
Call 027 61426 or email info@thegoodthingscafe.com  www.thegoodthingscafe.com 

For the past few years there has been a big mutton revival going on in the UK, championed by top chefs and the Prince of Wales. Others, like Fergus Henderson of St John have given offal a cult following. The most recent development on the UK food scene was the launch of real veal at the recent Organic Food Awards in Bristol. 
This initiative will be of interest to Irish dairy farmers and has potential for the bull calf industry. Intensively reared veal has long carried a stigma among chefs and diners because of the negative image of the production system used to produce white veal. Chefs are calling for high welfare veal to be more widely available.

A campaign for good veal backed by the country’s leading chefs and organic farming industry was launched recently with the publication of the Good Veal Guide. Chefs led by Barny Haughton, and supported by Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall and Sophie Grigson, are backing the initiative. 

Veal is often boycotted by the animal welfare conscious because of the negative image of young calves in dimly lit pens. However, the reality now is that production methods adopted by organic farmers mean the animals have plenty of space and light. They are outside in warmer months, enjoy a varied diet and very often the care of a foster cow.

With a life span of six months, organic calves live twice as long as even the slowest growing chicken, share the same life span as a good organic pig and live longer than many organic lambs.

Philip Lymbery, Chief Executive of Compassion in World Farming, says ‘we applaud this initiative for providing better lives for calves through higher welfare systems and thereby helping to save them from the inhumane live export trade’.

Chef Barny Haughton of Quartier Vert and Bordeaux Quay in Bristol has been championing sustainable food production for over 18 years. He produced The Good Veal Guide to coincide with the launch with delicious recipes.

“Organic veal is a meat with a delicate, but sweet flavour”, says Barny Haugton. “It is tender in texture, pink in colour and it is also wonderfully versatile; from saltimbocca – thin slices, a few seconds in the frying pan with butter and lemon – to osso bucco – shanks, slowly braised with tomatoes and white wine - to a beautiful golden veal and ham pie. It is for sound gastronomic reasons that veal is at the heart of traditional European cooking”, he continues.

The first humane organic veal system was pioneered ten years ago by Helen Browning, the dynamic organic farmer who runs Eastbrook Farm in Wiltshire. Also Food and Farming Director of the Soil Association she says that consumers can play a key role in reversing what can be an uncertain future for many calves. “The calf’s mother will go back into the organic dairy herd producing the pints, the yoghurts and the cheeses that many of us enjoy every day”, she says. “But what of the calf? The typical male dairy calf will never turn itself into a great beef animal, but good farming will produce superb meat from these livestock at a younger age. This veal should not be tarred with the same brush as the imported white slab of protein often served in the UK.”

Helen Browning is a dynamic farmer who also rears organic pigs –My ears pricked up immediately when I heard about this initiative because my father-in-law Ivan Allen had a Jersey herd for over 35 years. Myrtle served the bull calves in the restaurant and called it baby beef. They were killed at about 5 months, the meat was pale rosy pink, the flavour sweet and delicate. Now that I have two little Jersey cows for milk for the house and cookery school we also cherish our heifer and bull calves equally and are looking forward to tasting ‘a forgotten flavour’. 

www.helenbrowningorganics.co.uk 

Rosé Veal Chop
Humanely reared veal is often referred to as Rosé Veal to distinguish it from its intensively reared counterpart.

Serves 

6 Rosé veal chops, 1 inch (2.5cm) thick
Salt and freshly ground pepper
Extra virgin olive oil
2oz (50g) butter
24-30 fresh sage leaves
6 segments of lemon
Pangrill

Heat the pangrill, drizzle the chops with extra virgin olive oil. Season with sea salt and freshly ground pepper.

Cook for 5-8 minutes on a hot pan grill.

Meanwhile, heat 2oz (50g) butter in a frying pan to a medium heat. Dry the sage leaves and add to the pan.
Cook for 30 seconds to 1 minute until they frizzle up. 

Put the chops on to a hot serving plate, spoon the frizzled sage leaves over each chop.
Serve with a segment of lemon.

Veal Escalopes with Butter and Lemon – Vitello al burro el limone
from Gennaro’s Italian Year by Gennaro Contaldo, published by Headline

Serves 4

4 veal escalopes, each about 150g (5oz), thinly sliced
Salt and pepper
Plain flour for dusting
50g (2oz) butter
4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Juice of 1½ lemons, plus a few slices of lemon, thinly sliced and zest and pith removed
100ml (3½ fl.oz) white wine

Season the meat with salt and pepper, and dust them with flour, shaking off any excess.

In a large frying pan, heat the butter and extra-virgin olive oil, then add the veal escalopes and lemon slices, and cook for a couple of minutes on each side. Add the lemon juice and white wine, shaking the pan to make the sauce creamy.

Remove the meat and lemon slices and arrange on a serving dish or on 4 plates. Pour over the sauce from the pan and serve immediately.

A Classic Blanquette of Veal
Serves 6

3 lb (1.3kg) good stewing veal
2-2¼ pints (1.2-1.5 litres) light veal or chicken stock
1 large onion with a clove in it
1 large carrot, scraped and quartered
1 bouquet garni
2 sticks celery
8 parsley stalks
Pinch of salt
24 baby onions
¼ pint (150ml) stock
½ oz (10g) butter
24 button mushrooms without stalks
½ oz (10g) butter
2½ fl.oz (62ml) stock

Roux made from 2 oz (50g) butter and 2oz (50g) flour

Garnish:
Lemon juice
Heart shaped croutons
4oz (110g)clarified butter
Chopped parsley

For Liason:
2 eggs
¼ pint (150ml) cream

Trim the veal of all fat and gristle. Cut into 1½ inch (4cm) cubes. 

Put the veal in a saucepan, cover with cold water, bring to the boil and simmer gently for 2 minutes. Drain off the water and rinse away the scum from the veal. Wash the saucepan. (This is called blanching the veal.)

Put the veal back into the casserole with the stock, onion, carrot, bouquet garni, celery, parsley stalks and salt.

Bring to the boil and simmer gently for about 1-1¼ hours or until tender. 

Meanwhile, peel the onions. Simmer in a covered casserole for 40 minutes approx. in ¼ pint (150ml) stock and ½ oz (10g) butter. Toss the mushrooms in butter and a squeeze of lemon juice, add 2½ fl.oz (62ml) stock, and simmer in a covered casserole until cooked through, about 10 minutes.

Sauté the croutons on both sides in clarified butter until golden brown, keep warm.

When the veal is tender, strain off the cooking liquid, bring to the boil and thicken with roux, simmer for a few minutes, then add the mushrooms and onions, and simmer gently until heated through. Season with salt, pepper and lemon juice to taste. 

Meanwhile, remove the carrot, onion, celery and bouquet garni from the veal pieces and discard. Add the veal to the sauce.

*May be prepared ahead to this point.

Just before serving, slowly reheat the veal, onions and mushrooms if necessary, mix the egg and cream together and pour in some of the boiling liquid and then stir into the casserole. Be careful not to allow the blanquette to boil once the liason has been added, otherwise it may curdle.

Serve in a warm dish surrounded by pilaff rice.

Dip the ends of the croutons into the blanquette and then into the chopped parsley. Use to garnish the dish. Serve with a simple pilaff rice.

Pilaff Rice
2 tablesp. finely chopped onion or shallot

1oz (30g) butter
13oz (375g) long grain rice, preferably Basmati
32 fl.oz (900ml) home-made chicken stock
Salt and freshly ground pepper

Melt the butter in a casserole, add the finely chopped onion and sweat for 2-3 minutes, add the rice and toss for a minute or two until the grain changes colour. Season with salt and pepper, cover with chicken stock and bring to the boil. Simmer either on top or in the oven for approx. 10 minutes, or until the rice is just cooked and all the water is absorbed.

Note – Basmati rice cooks quite quickly, other types of rice may take up to 15 minutes.

Osso Bucco alla Milanese
Serves 6

2 hind shanks of veal, sawed into about 8 pieces, about 2 in (5cm) long
Securely tied around the middle
2oz (50g) butter
5oz (150g) chopped onion
4oz (110g) carrot, finely chopped
4oz (110g) celery, finely chopped
1 teaspoon garlic, finely chopped
2 strips lemon peel
4 fl.oz (125ml) vegetable oil
3oz (75g) flour
8 fl.oz (225ml) dry white wine
12 fl.oz (350ml) beef stock
12oz (350g) canned Italian tomatoes, coarsely chopped with their juice
¼ teasp. fresh thyme leaves
4 leaves fresh basil, chopped (optional)
2 bay leaves
2 or 3 sprigs of parsley
Salt and freshly ground pepper

Gremolata:
1 clove garlic, very finely chopped
1 teasp.grated lemon rind
2 tablesp. parsley, finely chopped

In a heavy casserole, just large enough to hold the veal, melt the butter and add the chopped onion, carrot and celery . Cook over medium heat for 8-10 minutes until the vegetables are soft. Add the garlic and lemon peel. Remove from the heat.

Heat the vegetable oil in a sauté pan over medium heat. Dust the veal shanks with flour and brown in the sauté pan. When brown on all sides place the shanks in the casserole on the bed of vegetables. 

Pour off almost all the fat in the sauté pan and add the wine, boil briskly for about 3 minutes scraping up the residue in the pan. Pour over the veal. In the same sauté pan, add the beef stock and bring to the boil. Pour into the casserole. Add the chopped tomatoes, thyme, basil (if using), bay leaves, parsley, salt and freshly ground pepper. The liquid should come up to the top of the pieces of veal, add more stock if necessary.

Preheat the oven to 180C/350F.gas 4.

Bring the casserole to a simmer on top of the stove, cover tightly. Place in the lower part of the preheated oven and cook for about 2 hours, turning and basting the veal every 20 minutes. The veal is cooked when it is very tender and the sauce is dense and creamy. Meanwhile make some gremolata by mixing together the garlic, lemon rind and parsley. Sprinkle over the veal as it finishes cooking.

Remove from pan, remove the strings. 
Boil up the sauce if necessary and spoon over the veal.

Mary Risley’s Braised Veal with Oranges
Serves 4

5lb ( 2.2kg) veal roast, cut from the heel of the round (with bone)
Or 4 veal shanks as for Osso Bucco
1 large onion, thinly sliced
Juice of 2 oranges
Juice of 1 lemon
Bouquet garni (including 1 clove)
Sprig of fresh basil
Salt and freshly ground pepper
Olive oil
1 orange
4 fl.oz (125ml) chicken or veal stock
2 fl.oz (50ml) wine vinegar and a little sugar

Combine the onion, orange and lemon juice, bouquet garni, basil, salt and pepper in a bowl big enough to hold the veal. Marinate the veal for 12 hours, turning it two or three times.

Remove the veal from the marinade, wipe it off and coat with olive oil. 
Preheat the oven to 325F/160C/gas3.

Brown the veal on all sides in a casserole on top of the stove. Add the marinade and bake in the covered casserole in the preheated oven for 1-1½ hours.

Remove the zest from the orange with a vegetable peeler and cut into tiny julienne strips. Blanch these in boiling water for 2 minutes, drain in a small sieve and run under cold water to stop the cooking. Remove all the white part from the orange and section the orange.

Remove the veal from the casserole and keep warm. It will be easier to carve if it is allowed to rest for 20 minutes. In an electric blender combine the braising liquid with the stock and blend. Reheat this sauce in a small saucepan, whisk in the wine vinegar (sweetened slightly). Add the orange zest and the orange sections. Correct seasoning.

Carve the veal into thin slices, arrange them overlapping in a row on a heated serving dish and pour over the hot sauce and oranges.

Foolproof Food

Apple and Raisin Squares
Lovely with a cup of coffee or for the lunchbox.

8ozs (225g) self raising flour
8ozs (225g) porridge oats
1 level teaspoon bread soda (bicarbonate of soda)
8ozs (225g) butter
8ozs (225g) sugar
2 tablespoons golden syrup
2 eating apples
4 ozs (110g) raisins

9½ inch (24cm) square tin, lightly greased.

Mix the flour, oats and bread soda together. Melt the butter, sugar and golden syrup together over a gentle heat and add to the dry ingredients. Press half the mixture into the lightly greased tin. Peel, core and chop the apple finely, mix with the raisins and sprinkle over, then spread the remaining oat mixture on top.

Bake for 30 minutes 180C/350F/gas 4, leave to cool for 5 minutes, cut into squares and transfer to a wire rack.

Hot tips

Fota Honey Show – Sunday 8th October 
Open to the public at 2.00pm

Slow Food Farmers Market, Oliver Plunkett Street, Cork, 11-5 Sunday 15th October with 30 artisan food stalls.
Part of the Slow Food Cork Festival 2006 running from 13-15th October, also includes Foodie films at Kino Cinema – www.corkfilmfest.org  or at Cork Film Festival Office or Kellys Post Office, Grand Parade. Slow Food Workshops (including one on Spices and on School Lunchboxes), Festival Dinners, Mushroom Hunt at Longueville House near Mallow (022-47156). For festival enquiries – email: cork@slowfoodireland.com  

Eurotoques Mushroom Hunt, Castle Leslie, Glaslough, Co Monaghan
Sunday 15th October at 12 noon. Guide will be Louis Smith of GMIT
Tel Euro-toques office on 01-6779995 for bookings. Tel Castle Leslie 047-88100