Jeanette Orrey is a Dinner lady, albeit the most highly awarded dinner lady ever. She was the inspiration for Jamie Oliver’s ‘Jamie’s School Dinners’ and is now the school meals policy advisor for the Soil Association in the UK. Patrick Holden, director of the Soil Association says “Jeanette Orrey is an inspiration - she is living proof that one person who has a combination of energy and the right ideas at the right time can quite literally change the world.”.
The Soil Association has helped over 500 schools to improve school meals with their “Food for life” project which encompasses the whole school approach. www.soilassociation.org 
Jeanette was one of the dinner ladies at St Peter’s School in Nottinghamshire, not necessarily because she had a ‘true vocation’ but because she wanted 2 or 3 hours work a day while her children were at school. All the skills she needed were to be able to use a scissors “to cut open packets of orange pulp and bung them in the ovens. Then we scooped out the mush and flung it into plastic flight trays” Everything was frozen supposedly safer. Most of the food came in kid friendly shapes, turkey dinosaurs, cheese feet, potato portholes, pork hippos ……
She wasn’t particularly passionate about food but she was totally shocked by the atrocious quality of the food supplied by the catering company for her to ‘heat up’ for the children. Her budget was 43p to provide 2 meals a day.
The final straw came when she opened the oven to take out a tray of pork hippos and was so repulsed by the smell and the pool of grease that she went to the headmaster and refused to serve the food to the kids preferring to go out and buy from her own pocket. She then persuaded the school to do in-house catering and gradually persuaded the parents to support what she was doing. She jumped in her car and went to visit local farmers and farm shops and did deals with them to supply local food. She also involved the children in the menus. One of the challenges was to convince the children that chickens were not dinasaurs. The numbers coming for school dinners shot up from 120 to 180 immediately.
The school became calmer as the childrens’ concentration and behaviour visibly improved. Her budget now is 70p – still minimal but it’s truly amazing what can be achieved with imagination and determination.
In 2005 she went on to write book of her recipes. - ‘The Dinner Lady’ was an instant success and the sequel ‘Second Helpings’ is also a best seller. Parents and senior citizens are invited to the school to the lunch club.
Jeanette recently spoke at a Slow Food event at the Cookery School and to the Free Choice Consumer group in Cork. She painted a grim picture of the situation at present.
As more children eat fast food on a regular basis, fewer families sit down to a meal together and a growing number cannot use cutlery. In the US 50% of kids can’t use a knife and fork. In 1930, 35% of a family income was spent on food – it is now less than 10% and statistics are similar in Ireland. We are now a much wealthier nation – why are we spending less on food? Our food should be our medicine rather than causing medical problems as so much food does nowadays. In the UK 40% of girls are deficient in iron. Numerous children are deficient in calcium, folic acid and essential vitamins and minerals for healthy growth..
There is a huge increase in Type 2 diabetes. The list goes on and is scary. Our children are our future – it must be a priority to feed them with fresh naturally produced food that will give them strength energy, vitality and the ability to concentrate. We are in the midst of a terrifying crisis. Many children have no idea where food comes from, a growing number of children cannot recognize even basic vegetables

Jeanette Orrey “The Dinner Lady” change the way your children eat, for life, published by Bantam Press €26.00     Buy this Book from Amazon
Jeanette Orrey “Second Helpings from the Dinner Lady” published by Bantam Press €29.00

Reuben’s Deli Wraps

These wraps make a great nutritious lunch for kids and adults. Parents seem to love their fresh-from-the-deli taste, and kids feel very grown-up eating them. Serve with a baked potato for a meal, or on their own as a snack. This recipe is slightly adapted from one used by chef friend Brent Castle.

Serves 4 Serves 96

450g (1lb) chicken breast 5.4kg (12lbs)
225g (8oz) iceberg lettuce 2.7kg (6lbs)
225g (8oz) white cabbage 2.7kg (6lbs)
225g (8oz) carrots 2.7kg (6lbs)
115g (4oz) Cheddar cheese 1.3kg (3lbs)
115g (4oz) Mayonnaise 1.3kg (3lbs)
25g (1oz) tomato ketchup 300g (10½ozs)
4-8 tortilla wraps 96

Preheat the oven to 120°C/250°F/Gas ½ 

Cut the chicken meat into fine slices and stir-fry in a little oil in a heavy based pan until thoroughly cooked. (If making the larger quantity, bake the chicken strips in the oven preheated to 200°C/400°F/Gas 6 for 5-10 minutes until thoroughly cooked.)

Finely shred the lettuce and cabbage, and grate the carrots and cheese. Mix together the grated vegetables and cheese. Mix together the mayonnaise and tomato ketchup to make a sauce. 
Brush the tortilla wraps with a little oil and put in a low preheated oven for 2 minutes to warm through. 

Spoon a little of the sauce over the wraps, lay a slice or two of the chicken strips along the wrap and put a spoonful of the vegetable and cheese mix on top. Wrap up and serve.

Taken from Jeanette Orrey’s ‘The Dinner Lady’ © 2005

Jeanette Orrey’s Cheesy Yorkshire Puddings

When I make these, I always leave the batter mixture to rest for about 20 minutes. Then, just before I put the liquid into the tin, I give the batter one last whisk. The puddings always seem to rise better this way – try it! The home-kitchen quanity makes about 24 small puddings. Serve with some good local sausages, mashed potato and seasonal vegetables.

Serves 4 Serves 96

225g (8oz) plain flour 2.7kg (6lb)
a pinch ground pepper ½ teaspoon
2 eggs 24
600ml(1 pint) milk 6.8 litres (12 pints)
115g (4oz) Cheddar cheese 1.3kg (3lb)
olive oil

Sift the flour and pepper together into a bowl. Add the eggs and half the milk, and beat well until smooth. Beat in the remaining milk. Leave to rest for 20 minutes.

Meanwhile, preheat the oven well to 200°C/425°F/Gas 7. Grate the cheese.

Grease patty or Yorkshire pudding tins with olive oil and put into the hot oven for 5 minutes. Take out of the oven and divide the batter mix between the tins. Quickly add a little cheese to each Yorkshire, and bake in the very hot preheated oven until well risen and golden brown, around 10 minutes.

Taken from Jeanette Orrey’s ‘The Dinner Lady’ © 2005

Jeanette Orrey’s Real Chicken Nuggets

This is one of the simplest recipes in the book, and I’d much rather have the children eat these, made from local free-range or organic chicken, than any of the ingredients in the shop-bought chicken nugget. Get the children to help you make them – they love tossing the chicken in a bag of breadcrumbs. One adult portion will be roughly ten nuggets. Serve with some home-made tomato sauce or relish.

Serves 4 Serves 96

225g (8oz) bread (brown or white) 2.7kg (6lbs)
½ teaspoon garlic powder 3 tablespoons
¼ teaspoon paprika 2 tablespoons
1 egg 12
125ml (4floz) milk 1.5 litres (2½ pints)
900g (2 lb) diced chicken 10.8kg (24lbs) 

Preheat the oven to 200°C/400°F/Gas 6

Slice the bread, then toast it until light brown. Break up into pieces, crusts and all, and reduce to fine crumbs in the food processor. Add the garlic powder and paprika, and whiz again. Place the breadcrumbs in a large plastic freezer bag or a deep tray. 

Beat the egg in a large bowl with the milk, and add the chicken pieces, in batches if necessary. Transfer the chicken pieces to the bag or tray of breadcrumbs and toss to coat evenly. 

Arrange the crumbed chicken on a lightly greased baking sheet, and bake in the preheated oven for 10 minutes until browned and crisp and cooked through. 

Taken from Jeanette Orrey’s ‘The Dinner Lady’ © 2005

Jeanette Orrey’s Spicy Lamb Burgers

This recipe was devised at the new training kitchen in Essex, and I have thank Simon Owens, who work with there. Everyone who eats the burgers thinks they are great. Serve in a halved warm pitta bread or mini burger buns, with salad and a fresh mint and yoghurt dressing, or a salad of chopped carrots, tomato and cucumber. Add a squeeze of lemon to the lamb burgers once they are cooked.

Makes about 16

½ bunch of fresh coriander
175g (6oz) onions, peeled and finely chopped
1 small red chilli, deseeded and finely chopped
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 kg (2¼ lb) minced lamb
1 teaspoon ground cumin
½ teaspoon ground turmeric
½ teaspoon ground coriander
1 egg, beaten

Wash the fresh coriander thoroughly. Cook the onion and chilli in the olive oil in a frying pan until golden and soft. Leave to cool a little.

Combine all the ingredients in a large bowl and stir until thoroughly mixed. Divide the mixture into small burgers, shaping them as you wish; but it should make about 16. 

Place on a baking sheet and cook under a hot grill for 3-4 mins on each side, or for 2-4 mins on each side on the barbeque.

Taken from Jeanette Orrey’s ‘Second Helpings from The Dinner Lady’ © 2006

Jeanette Orrey’s Vegetable Lasagne

This is a good way to get children to eat vegetables. Make sure you dice them very small and to begin with just give them a small amount. They will be back for more, I can tell you. Serve with some fresh bread rolls or crusty bread.

Serve 4 Serves 96

225g (8oz) pre-cooked lasagne 2kg (4½lb)
1 tablespoon olive oil 175ml (6floz)
175g (6oz) onions 1.3kg (3lb)
175g (6oz) carrots 1.3kg (3lb)
3 sticks celery 2 heads
175g (6oz) courgettes 1.3kg (3lb)
½ teaspoon mixed dried herbs 55g (2oz)
1 x 400g can chopped tomatoes 2 x A10 (2.7kg) cans
115g (4oz) tomato puree 1.3kg (3lb)
300ml (10floz) water 3.4 litres (6pints)

Cheese Sauce
115g (4oz) Cheddar cheese 1.3kg (3lb)
25g (1oz) butter or margarine 350g (12oz)
25g (1oz) plain flour 350g (12oz)
600ml (1pint) milk 6.8 litres (12pints)
½ teaspoon wholegrain mustard 55g (2oz)


Preheat the oven the 200°C/400°F/Gas 6. Grease a deep lasagne dish, approximately 30cm (12in) square, with a little of the oil. 

Peel and dice the onions. Wash the carrots and celery and then dice. Trim the courgettes, and slice thinly. Grate the cheese for the sauce. 
Saute the onions, carrots, celery and courgettes in the remaining olive oil for a few minutes, then add the herbs, tomatoes, tomato puree and water. Bubble for 10-15 minutes. 

Make the cheese sauce by melting the butter or margarine then adding the flour. Cook until the texture and colour are sandy, then add the milk, stirring continuously until thickened and smooth. Add the cheese and mustard, and cook for a further 2-3 minutes.
Arrange half of the lasagne on the base of the dish. Pour half the vegetables over the lasagne, then top with another layer of lasagne. Top with the remaining vegetables, then pour over the cheese sauce. Bake in the preheated oven until golden brown and the lasagne is soft, about 30-35 minutes.

Taken from Jeanette Orrey’s ‘The Dinner Lady’ © 2005

Fool Proof Recipe

Jeanette Orrey’s Banana Loaf

This loaf is ideal for us at school because you just have to slice it to serve. Bananas are great for energy, as well, just what the children need after working hard all morning. You could also ice this (add a little vanilla essence to the icing), if you like.

Serves 4 Serves 96

2 ripe banana 24
175g (6oz) butter or margarine 1.3kg (3lb)
175g (6oz) caster sugar 1.3kg (3lb)
3 eggs 24
225g (8oz) self-raising flour 2.7kg (6lb)
½ teaspoon baking powder 2 tablespoons
½ teaspoon vanilla essence 2 tablespoons
½ teaspoon ground cinnamon 2 tablespoons
1 banana for decoration (optional ) 12

Preheat the oven to 180°C/350°F/Gas 4

Peel the bananas then crush with a fork. Beat together the butter or margarine and sugar, then add the eggs alternately with the flour and baking powder. Fold in the crushed banana, vanilla essence and cinnamon.

Pour the mixture into a greased 450g (1lb) tin, and top, if liked, with long thin slices of banana. Bake in the preheated oven for about 40 minutes. Cool slightly then turn on to a wire tray. When cool, slice.

Taken from Jeanette Orrey’s ‘The Dinner Lady’ © 2005

Hot tip
Lovers of Irish farmhouse cheese, ‘new age’ food producers and artisans will be delighted to hear that Giana Ferguson of Gubbeen Cheese, near Schull in west Cork, will hold a three-day cheese-making course on her farm from May 19-21.
For details, phone 028-28231 or email
gianaferguson@eircom.net  

Grow your own — pick up ready-to-plant salad and vegetable plants in Cork at Midleton farmers’ market on Saturdays, 9am-1pm, or Mahon Point farmers’ market, Thursdays, 9am-2pm. 

Clodagh McKenna’s Food Fair is at Cork’s Fota House every Sunday, 11am-5pm. It includes a farmers’ market with more than 20 stalls selling delicious pates, fresh breads, smoked fish, juices, chocolates and more. Eat some fantastic food while you’re there, from crepes and BBQ sausages to fresh smoothies and great coffee. 

For cookery demonstrations, check out www.fotahouse.com   for info on classes. There’s also live music, the wildlife park and gardens. For train connections (only 15 minutes from Cork, at which there are inter-city trains) to Fota, see www.irishrail.ie

The students clapped and cheered – there were even a few wolf whistles Aliona Mc Kinnon from Ukraine, Bright (Yu Long Bao) from LiaoNing Province, China and Agnes Stawosz from Krakow, Poland had just finished a command performance at the cookery school. We always have a very cosmopolitan group, the January course was no exception. There were 7 nationalities so there was a lively interchange of culture and ideas. Some students are total beginners when they come to the school others already cook well and are particularly knowledgeable about their own cuisine but unfamiliar with ours.
When one is away from home for a period of time, one craves comforting familiar food. Our foreign students seek out ingredients from their homeland and cook us lots of delicious dishes. The other students are curious to learn their secrets.
So I asked them to demonstrate some of their specialities to the other students and teachers.
Aliona was born in Uzbekistan and later moved to the Ukraine so she has memories of both cuisines. She demonstrated a variety of family dishes from both countries and a delicious carrot salad which she learned from her Korean aunt when she was a child. 
Bright comes from China, he too is passionate about food and delighted his fellow students with his friendly banter as he cooked.
Agnes who comes from Poland is also a natural cook and teacher and her food too was utterly delicious. 
Its such a joy to see the students demonstrate confidently. – “By your pupils you’ll be taught” – and I greatly enjoyed it too.

Korean Carrot Salad

Aliona McKinnon inherited this recipe from her Aunt Svetlana.

Serves 6

5 medium carrots
1 large onion
6 cloves of garlic
2 teaspoons ground coriander
4 tablespoons olive oil
3 tablespoons vinegar
1 tablespoon sugar
Salt and pepper to taste
3 teaspoons chopped coriander

Grate the carrots, slice the onion and chop the garlic and coriander finely. Fry the onion in olive oil in a large frying pan until golden. Add the carrot and stir. Put this mixture in a bowl with the remaining ingredients, mix everything together and add salt and pepper if required. Serve as a starter or as an accompaniment to the Plov.

Aliona’s Oliv’ie – Russian Salad

Serves 10-12

5 potatoes
2 carrots
100g (3½oz) bacon or any other meat
4 medium preserved cucumbers (salted and marinated)
400g (14oz) frozen peas or 1 x 400g tin of peas, boiled
4 eggs, hard boiled
250g (9oz) 1 small onion
250g mayonnaise, about 1 pint thinned to a coating consistency with water
Salt and freshly ground pepper

Boil the potatoes, carrots (unpeeled) until almost cooked. Boil the meat until cooked. Cut the potatoes, carrots and meat into ¼ inch (5mm) cubes. Chop the onion and egg finely and mix all the ingredients together in a bowl. Add enough mayonnaise to coat the ingredients. Taste and season well with salt and freshly ground black pepper.

Serve as a starter or an accompaniment.

Aliona’s Plov

In Uzbekistan everyone has their own recipe. This is Aliona’s way of making Plov.

Serves 8-10 

1kg shoulder of lamb, cut into 2cm cubes
4-6 tablespoons of olive oil
2 large onions, chopped
3 large carrots, cut into 3cm sticks
1 tsp cumin seeds
1 tsp coriander seeds
1 tsp paprika
½ tsp chilli powder
5 cloves of garlic, peeled and chopped
water
Lots of salt and pepper
1 level teaspoon turmeric
1 whole garlic bulb
3 ½ cups rice, washed

Fry the cubed meat until brown in the olive oil. Add the chopped onion and carrots. Add the spices and chopped garlic. Season with salt and freshly ground pepper. Add enough water to cover, bring to the boil and cook until the meat is tender – about 15/20 minutes approx. Add the washed rice and 200ml more water and boil rapidly until the water evaporates. Sprinkle turmeric over the top and place a whole bulb of garlic in the centre of the rice mixture. Cover with a lid and turn the heat down to low. Use a heat diffuser mat. Cook for 30/40 minutes, by which time the rice should have absorbed all the liquid. 

Serve with the Korean carrot salad and thinly sliced onion rings.

Ekra – Vegetable Stew

This recipe is from Uzbekistan. Aliona’s father gave her the recipe.

Serves 15-20

300g onion, chopped
1kg aubergine, cubed
300g carrots, grated
300g red pepper, cubed
300g tomatoes, grated and finely chopped
2 tablespoons tomato paste
1-2 chilli peppers, chopped
4 tablespoons olive oil

Fry the onion until golden then add the carrots, pepper, chilli, aubergine and tomatoes. Mix a little water with the tomato paste and a little salt and pepper and put in a saucepan with the vegetables. Place the pan on the heat, boil and simmer until the vegetables are cooked. Taste and add salt, pepper, water or paste if necessary.
Serve as salad or as an accompaniment. Keeps in a jar for months in the fridge. 

Aliona’s Ukranian Apple Cake

Serves 8

3 free range eggs
200g (7oz) sugar
3-4 apples
50g (2oz) butter
30g (1oz) sugar
160g (5½oz) plain flour
A few drops of pure vanilla extract
Cinnamon to taste

20-25cm deep pie dish

Preheat the oven to 200°C (400°F/Gas Mark 6)

Whisk the eggs and sugar in a mixer. Peel the apples and grate into slices (Aliona uses the side of a box grater). Brush the deep pie dish with butter and spread the apple on top. Dot with butter and sprinkle a little sugar over the apples with a little cinnamon. Add the flour to the egg and sugar and mix gently. Add the vanilla extract and pour the liquid over the apples. Sprinkle the top with cinnamon. Cook in the pie dish for 30-40 minutes approximately. Serve with softly whipped cream.

Bright’s Stir Fried Chicken with Wild Mushrooms and Oyster Sauce

Serves 6

200g (7oz) wild mushrooms
1 medium carrot, halved, thinly sliced
2 thin slices ginger
1 clove garlic, crushed
1 chicken breast, thinly sliced at an angle
600ml (1 pint) water
1/2 teaspoon Chinese five spice
2 tablespoons oyster sauce
2 spring onions, thinly sliced at an angle
1 dessertspoon arrowroot in water to thicken the juice
1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil 
salt, freshly ground pepper, sugar

Bring the water to the boil in a wide saucepan. Trim the mushrooms and scald in boiling water for a few seconds. Remove the mushrooms from the water with a Chinese sieve (Zhao Li) and put the mushrooms aside with a little of the water.

Heat a wok on the highest heat, add the olive oil (for a Chinese stir fry always add the oil to a very hot pan.) Stir fry the sliced carrots, ginger, chopped garlic and chicken for a few seconds and then add the water, Chinese five spice and oyster sauce. After 2 minutes, add the sliced mushrooms and the spring onion. Toss well. Season with salt, pepper and sugar and taste. This dish is a salty Chinese stir fry.
Add the arrowroot liquid into the juice. Don’t add it directly onto the hot pan or the arrowroot will burn immediately.) Mix the arrowroot through the dish, the juice should thicken quickly and coat all of the ingredients. Turn off the heat and sprinkle a little oil around the hot pan and turn over again. This step is to give Chinese dishes a fresh and light colour.

Remove to a hot plate and serve immediately.

Agnes’ Pierogi and Uszka

Serves

300g (11oz) strong white flour
1 egg yolk
1 tablespoons oil
1 level teaspoon salt
water

Sieve flour into a bowl, add salt. Boil the water. Let it cool down a little. Mix egg yolk into the flour. Add oil into the hot water and pour into the flour. Mix it until it comes together as a dough. Cover and leave to rest for 15mins. Meanwhile make the filling.

Meat filling
500g meat (chicken, lamb, pork)
2 onions, chopped
1 clove garlic 
2 tablesp olive oil
salt and freshly ground pepper

Cook the meat until tender. Chop onion and garlic. Cook it in olive oil until coloured (don't cover). Whizz meat in a food processor, add the onion, season well with salt and freshly ground pepper, mix it well.

Mushroom and cabbage stuffing
1 jar sour cabbage (sour kraut)
50g (2oz) dried mushroom (you can use Chinese mushrooms), chopped
2 onions, chopped
2 table sp olive oil
salt and freshly ground pepper

Soak mushroom (few hours before cooking) in cold water. Chop the cabbage finely Rinse and cook until almost tender. Cook mushroom till tender. Chop onion and sweat in olive oil until golden. Drain the mushroom and chop finely. Mix mushroom, cabbage and onion together, season with salt and pepper.

Roll dough to a thickness of 5mm, stamp out circles with a glass or scone cutter (6 cm). Use a smaller cutter for uszka.

Put a little stuffing in the middle of each circle and seal the edges, you should get half moons).

Bring a large saucepan of water to the boil, cook the pierogi or uszka for few minutes till tender. Melt some butter on the pan and fry pierogi until golden on the both sides. 
Serve uszka in the Barszcz. No need to fry.

Agnes’ Barszcz

A delicious Borsch like soup, quick and easy to make

Serves 6 approx

750g (1½ lbs) beetroot, grated
1 onion, chopped
3 garlic cloves, finely chopped
2 tsp cumin or caraway seeds
1 tablespoon white wine vinegar
850mls (1½ pints) chicken stock
salt and freshly ground pepper
1 tsp sugar

Wash and peel the beetroot. Grate it on the largest part of the grater. Chop the onion and garlic. Mix with the beetroot, add the vinegar, sugar and cumin. Leave to marinate for at least half an hour.

Bring the stock to the boil, take off the heat and fold in beetroot mixture, leave for half an hour (minimum). Strain through a very fine sieve. Heat it, season with salt and pepper add more vinegar and sugar if necessary. 

VERY IMPORTANT: DO NOT ALLOW TO BOIL, (it will spoil the colour). Serve with homemade uszka. 

Garnish with freshly chopped parsley.

Sernik – a (baked cheesecake)

Serves 10-12

110g (4ozs) sweet short crust pastry
1 kg white cottage cheese (available from Russian shops)
250g (9oz) unsalted butter
250g (9oz) castor suger
7 free range eggs (separated)
100g (3½oz) sultanas
candied peel (optional)
1 tablespoon vanilla extract
1 tablespoon cream flour

25cm square cake tin
Preheat the oven to 180°C (350°F/Gas Mark 4)
Line the tin with greaseproof paper and line with sweet short crust pastry. Put cheese into food processor till it is creamy. Cream butter with castor sugar. Then add cheese and egg yolks (one spoon of cheese one egg yolk). Add chopped candied peel, sultanas, vanilla extract. Next whisk in egg whites and fold into cheese mixture. Next stir in flour gently. Pour the mixture into the tin. Bake in the preheated oven for an hour. Leave to rest for at least half an hour before serving.


Fool-proof food

Bright’s Celery and Cashew Nut Salad

Serves 6

1 head of fresh celery
600ml (1 pint) water
3 teaspoons salt
200g (7oz) cashew nuts
1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
Pinch of sugar

Slice the celery diagonally into pieces the size of a cashew nut. Bring the water to the boil in a saucepan and add 2 teaspoons of salt. Salted water preserves the colour of the celery.

Add the celery to the boiling water and immediately turn off the heat. Leave the celery in the hot water for 3 minutes.

Drain off the water. The celery should still be crisp. Heat the oil in a frying pan and swirl to coat the base of the pan. Add the cashew nuts and stir constantly for 1 minute taking care not to burn the nuts. When the nuts are golden and smell toasted add the celery to the pan. Toss well and season with 1 teaspoon salt and a pinch of sugar to taste.

Serve hot or cold. 

This very simple salad is a completely delicious, fresh tasting and crunchy. Eat on it’s own or as an accompaniment to cold meats or warm chicken.

Hot Tips

Wednesday 26th April 2006, 7.30 Gourmet Store, Schull
Denis Cotter, Chef of the Year 2006, from the famous Café Paradiso, Cork, will be Cooking for Slow Food Members at The Gourmet Sore, Schull to celebrate the relaunch of Desmond And Gabriel Cheese made by Bill Hogan and Sean Ferry

Opening talk by John Minihane author and photographer.
Booking essential – booking call: 028 27613

More information on Desmond and Gabriel Cheese
Call Bill: 028 28593
Slow Food Information: Giana: 028 28231

Cookery demonstration by Darina Allen at the Garryvoe Hotel on Monday May 8th at 8pm to raise money for the families of the ‘Maggie B’ Fishing Vessel Sea-Tragedy Fund. Tickets €20 each. For details telephone: Ballymaloe Cookery School 
021 4646785

 

Recently we celebrated the Festive Foods of Easter with a Slow Food event at the Cookery School.

To get us into the spirit, a few weeks ago we had put some eggs in the incubator. Low and behold 21 days later little chicks started to chip and peck their way through the shells – such excitement, the students were out of their minds with delight. Most had never before witnessed the minor miracle of a chick struggling and squawking its way out of a shell.

For extra pzazz Rosalie made several Easter Trees and arrangements, and Mary Jo McMillin from Ohio made Easter Bunny biscuits to hang on the trees. First she decorated them with glace icing and psychedelic dragees, and then threaded little ribbons through them to hang them on the branches.

Slow Food events are convivial affairs so people were greeted with a glass of mulled apple juice or homemade lemonade.

Rory O’Connell, Mary Jo and I demonstrated a variety of Easter dishes.

Sweet succulent Spring lamb is an absolute must for Easter so we made two racks of lamb into a Guard of Honour and served it with Gratin of Potato and Mushroom and three sauces – Fresh Mint Chutney, Red Currant Jelly and a Sauce Soubise. We also made my favourite Easter Sunday pud - new season’s Rhubarb Tart.

Mary Jo made a wonderful batch of Hot Cross Buns, the dough for these needs to be soft and sticky so its difficult to handle but the result is tender crumb speckled with juicy raisins and sultanas and candied peel.

Easter is so much about eggs, since ancient times they have been a symbol of Spring rebirth and resurrection.

We saved the onion peelings from the school for several days and then cooked hardboiled eggs in boiling water with onion peels in the time-honoured way. The shells became a beautiful brown. With vegetable dyes one can produce a variety of colours but we often resort to magic markers to decorate the eggs that are laid by the hens on Good Friday.

On Easter Sunday our hens lay gaily decorated eggs with the children’s and grandchildren’s names, so there’s wild excitement collecting the eggs for breakfast.

At the Slow Food Event we also made Easter Egg nests, so easy with melted chocolate and rice krispies and little chocolate speckled eggs

Mary Jo then made some more grown up Easter meringue nests and filled them with a bitter chocolate mousse.

We made lots of Penny’s Easter buns and iced them with a lemon icing. The kiddies ones had mini eggs on top and the grown up ones were decorated with handmade crystallized primroses and violets – how adorable is that.

Finally, the piece de resistance, a Simnel Cake. Our traditional Easter treat – a rich fruit cake with a thick layer of almond paste in the centre. The cake is also iced with almond paste and decorated with eleven balls of marzipan which represent the 11 apostles, Judas who betrayed Jesus is not represented on the cake.

The whole cake is then glazed with egg yolk and toasted. We ate it while it was still warm. Later we laid out all our festive foods on a long table in the conservatory and had a delicious afternoon tea.

Happy Easter.

For details of Slow Food Ireland – visit www.slowfoodireland.com  or iona@cookingisfun.ie  

Simnel Cake

Simnel Cake is a traditional Easter cake. It has a layer of almond paste baked into the centre and a thick layer of almond icing on top. The 11 balls represent 11 of the 12 apostles - Judas is missing because he betrayed Jesus.

8 ozs (225g) butter
8 ozs (225g) pale, soft brown sugar
6 eggs, preferably free range
10 ozs (285g) white flour
1 teaspoon mixed spice
2 ½ fl ozs (35ml) Irish whiskey
12 ozs (340g) best quality sultanas
12 ozs (340g) best quality currants
12 ozs (340g) best quality raisins
4 ozs (110g) cherries
4 ozs (110g) home made candied peel
2 ozs (55g) whole almonds
2 ozs (55g) ground almonds
Rind of 1 lemon
Rind of 1 orange
1 large or 2 small Bramley Seedling apples, grated

Almond Paste

1 lb (450g) ground almonds

1 lb (450g) castor sugar
2 small eggs
A drop of pure almond essence
2 tablesp. (50ml) Irish whiskey

Line the base and sides of a 9 inch (23cm) round, or a 8 inch (20.5cm) square tin with brown paper and greaseproof paper.

Wash the cherries and dry them. Cut in two or four as desired. Blanch the almonds in boiling water for 1-2 minutes, rub off the skins and chop them finely. Mix the dried fruit, nuts, ground almonds and grated orange and lemon rind. Add about half of the whiskey and leave for 1 hour to macerate.

Next make the almond paste.

Sieve the castor sugar and mix with the ground almonds. Beat the eggs, add the whiskey and 1 drop of pure almond essence, then add to the other ingredients and mix to a stiff paste. (You may not need all the egg). Sprinkle the work top with icing sugar, turn out the almond paste and work lightly until smooth.

Preheat the oven to 180C/350F/regulo 4.

Cream the butter until very soft, add the sugar and beat until light and fluffy. Whisk the eggs and add in bit by bit, beating well between each addition so that the mixture doesn't curdle. Mix the spice with the flour and stir in gently. Add the grated apple to the fruit and mix in gently but thoroughly (don't beat the mixture again or you will toughen the cake).

Put half of the cake mixture into the prepared tin, roll about half of the almond paste into an 8½ inch (21.5cm) round. Place this on top of the cake mixture in the tin and cover with the remaining mixture. Make a slight hollow in the centre, dip you hand in water and pat it over the surface of the cake: this will ensure that the top is smooth when cooked. Cover the top with a single sheet of brown paper. 

Put into the preheated oven; reduce the heat to 160C/325F/regulo 3 after 1 hour. Bake until cooked, 3-3½ hours approx., test in the centre with a skewer - it should come out completely clean. Pour the rest of the whiskey over the cake and leave to cool in the tin. 

NOTE: When you are testing do so at an angle because the almond paste can give a false reading.

Next day remove the cake from the tin. Do not remove the lining paper but wrap in some extra greaseproof paper and tin foil until required.

When you wish to ice the cake, roll the remainder of the almond paste into a 9 inch (23cm) round. Brush the cake with a little lightly beaten egg white and top with the almond paste. Roll the remainder of the paste into 11 balls. Score the top of the cake in 1½ inch (4cm) squares or diamonds. Brush with beaten egg or egg yolk, stick the ‘apostles’ around the outer edge of the top, brush with beaten egg. Toast in a preheated oven 220C/425F/regulo 7, for 15-20 minutes or until slightly golden, Decorate with an Easter Chicken. Cut while warm or store for several weeks when cold.

NB: Almond paste may also be used to ice the side of the cake. You will need half the almond paste again.

This cake keeps for weeks or even months, but while still delicious it changes both in texture and flavour as it matures.

Mary Jo’s Meringue Nests with Dark Chocolate Mousse

4fl oz (125ml) egg whites (4 eggs)

6oz (175g) icing sugar
For 8 nests

Put the egg white and sieved icing sugar into the spotlessly clean dry bowl of a food mixer. Whisk for 6 to 8 minutes or to stiff peaks.

Line a baking tray with silicone paper (Bakewell) and divide meringue into 8 large blobs on lined tray. Pipe or shape into 4 inch (10cm) nests using back of a small spoon. Bake in a 150C/300F/gas 2 oven for 30 minutes. Reduce heat to 100C/200F/gas ¼ and bake until crisp. Turn off heat and allow to cool in oven. Slip nests onto serving platter.

Chocolate Mousse

6oz (175g) dark chocolate

3fl oz (75ml) brewed coffee
1 tablespoon rum or other liqueur
6fl oz(160ml) heavy cream

Place chocolate, coffee and rum in a pyrex bowl and set over saucepan of simmering water. Turn off heat and allow chocolate to melt. Stir liquid into melted chocolate and remove bowl from saucepan. Allow to cool to room temperature. To hasten cooling, place bowl over basin of ice water.

Whip cream to soft peaks and fold into cooled liquid chocolate. Place rounded dollop of chocolate mousse in each nest. Shave a little dark chocolate over tops using a vegetable peeler and a block of chocolate.
Refrigerate overnight or for a few hours.

Before serving decorate each nest with a circle of whipped cream. Top with a tiny Easter fluffy chick if desired.

Pennys Easter Buns with Crystallised Primroses or Violets or Mini Eggs

If you have just one oven you may need to make the cupcakes in three separate batches. Depending on how the cup cakes are decorated, this can be any occasion, a wedding cake, christening, anniversary, children’s party, sports day celebration ….

Makes 36

1lb (450g) butter (at room temperature)
1lb (450g) caster sugar
1lb (450g)) self-raising flour
6 large eggs preferably free-range and organic
6 tablespoons milk
1 1/2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract.

Lemon Icing: (makes enough for 12 cupcakes)

4oz (110g) icing sugar
Finely grated rind of 1/2 lemon
1-2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
3 muffin trays lined with 12 muffin cases each.

Preheat oven to 190ºC/375ºF/gas mark 5.

Put all ingredients except milk into a food processor and whizz until smooth. Scrape down sides, then add milk and whizz again.
Divide mixture between the cases in the muffin tins.

Bake in the preheated oven for 15 –20 minutes or until risen and golden. Remove from the tin and cool on a wire rack.

To finish:

Make the lemon icing:
Sieve the icing sugar into a bowl. Add the lemon rind and enough lemon juice to make a softish icing.
Decorate the buns with lemon icing and crystallized flowers or mini eggs.
Arrange in a pyramid on 2 or 3 cup cake stands or on a perspex cake stand.

To make Crystallized Flowers

Guidelines
Use fairly strong textured leaves, the smaller the flowers the more attractive they are when crystallized eg. primroses, violets.

The castor sugar must be absolutely dry, one could dry it in a low oven for about 2 hour approx.

Break up the egg white slightly with a fork. Using a child's paint brush it very carefully over each petal and into every cervice. Pour the castor sugar over the flower with a teaspoon, arrange the flower carefully on bakewell paper so that it has a good shape. Allow to dry overnight in a warm dry place, e.g. close to an Aga or over a radiator. If properly crystallized these flowers will last for months, even years, provided they are kept dry. We store them in a pottery jar or a tin box.

When you are crystallizing flowers remember to do lots of leaves also so one can make attractive arrangements - e.g. mint, lemon balm, wild strawberry, salad burnet or marguerite daisy leaves etc. 


Foolproof Food

Easter Egg Nests

Makes 24

4ozs (110g) Rice krispies
6ozs (175g) dark Chocolate
72 mini eggs

cup cake papers or ring moulds
Put the chocolate in a pyrex bowl over a saucepan of hot water. Bring just to the boil, turn off the heat and allow to melt in the bowl. Stir in the rice krispies.

Spoon into cup cake cases. Flatten a little and make a well in the centre. Fill with three speckled chocolate mini eggs. Allow to set. 

Hot Tips

Tasty Tipp-

Fabulous Food Fair in Co Tipperary – TIPP FM Food Fair at Thurles Greyhound Stadium on Sunday 21st May. This is the third Tipp Fm Food Fair and is being organized in association with Tipperary Leader. The fair will feature a unique showcase of enterprising food producers from all over Tipperary and nationwide with a whole array of exotic tastes to experience. To book a stand at this event contact Pam at 067-44466 or Noreen 087-2795900 or Geraldine 087 2523215 immediately. 

Tipperary LEADER Group devised a competition to create awareness of local food produce available in the county, amongst the youth in the Tipperary LEADER group area and inform them of the health, economic, environmental and wider societal benefits of eating local produce. They held The Tipperary Schools Local Food Competition – South Tipperary IFA sponsored the prizes and the final was presented in the format of ‘The Restaurant’ Programme on RTE. Judging was a deliciously difficult process. As well as generous monetary prizes the finalists were offered the opportunity of undertaking paid work experience in a catering establishment in their own area.

All competitors had their entries included in the Tipperary Schools Local Food Cookery Book which will be distributed to secondary schools throughout the area. The super little book contains an outline of the benefits of local food based recipes and a countywide contact list of local food producers and markets in Tipperary. 

Other counties please copy!

Visiting Belfast ?

Check out James Street South Restaurant at 21 James St. within walking distance of Belfast City Centre and its attractions. Fresh simple cuisine using the best of local produce – Lunch Monday to Saturday 12.00-2.45, dinner Monday to Saturday 5.45 – 10.45 and Sunday 5.30-9.00 www.jamesstreetsouth.co.uk  info@jamesstreetsouth.co.uk 

Tel 02890 434310

Irish Cider Industry –

The majority of the employment within the Irish cider industry is in the South –East, over 500 people are employed in the industry. Over 25% of the entire apple harvest in Ireland is used in cider production. The industry absorbs the entire national crop of cull apples and actively promotes the development of apple orchards as a viable form of farm enterprise.

Even if free range organic eggs cost €12 a dozen they would still be cheap at the price. After all, two boiled eggs and soldiers for supper leaves one fully satisfied. Incredible value for 50-70p and would still be worth every penny if they were to cost €2.

Real free range organic eggs cost a lot to produce well, hens need grass and lots of it. If they are organic they must have a special feed which does not contain any animal materials or animal fats, any products derived from genetically modified organisms, or any raw materials produced by chemical processes, and it costs about 60 % more than conventional feed.

There is a growing demand for eggs of this quality. People flock into farmers markets searching for free range eggs from happy lazy hens – for many, a forgotten flavour.

The reality is that under Irish law, local farm eggs cannot be legally sold in local shops unless the producer is registered with the Department for Agriculture and Food and registration is based on compliance with certain EU legislation. The cost of compliance with the regulations makes it totally uneconomic and impractical for a small producer to be registered.

Those brave or foolhardy (depending on how you look on it), shopkeepers who dare to stock these eggs for their special customers, have to hide them underneath the counter, or risk having them broken into a bucket or plastic bag by a Department of Agriculture Inspector.

This scenario has been played out in many shops during the past few months, not only with fresh farm eggs, but also eggs that were less than one week from their ‘use by’ date.

Many consumers and shopkeepers angered by what they perceive to be extraordinarily extreme action have asked if this regulation has more to do with protectionism rather than food safety? ( After all they are only eggs, not dynamite!)

Surely as consumers we should have the right to choose and more and more people are voting with their feet. Despite threats of Avian flu, the fastest growing hobby in the UK is keeping a few chickens in your garden. Over here the numbers of people of all ages keeping a few hens is also skyrocketing. In our area alone I can count 8 or 10 people keeping a few hens – anything from two in the cute little eglu chicken house (have a look at www.omlet.co.uk ) to 6-10. Just enough to supply the eggs for an average household. 

It’s a simple holistic system, the food scraps from the house go to the hens and come back as eggs a few days later. The chicken manure goes onto the compost and is eventually returned to the soil to make it more fertile for vegetable growing.

The first course I did at the school called ‘How to Keep a few Chickens in the Garden’, was totally over subscribed. It is part of a growing interest in ‘forgotten skills’, a small but significant number of people want to produce their own food, eggs, chickens, bacon, yogurt, simple cheese. Several courses are available – Among their huge range of courses, The Organic Centre in Rossinver, Co Leitrim runs a ‘Poultry for the Home’ course in June, Sarah Raven’s Cutting Garden at Perch Hill Farm in East Sussex has ‘Keeping Chickens’ with Matthew Rice in March and we will be running our own course here at the Cookery School on 11th March.

The thrill of collecting an egg directly from the nest is something that delights everyone from tiny tots to aged grans and grandas. When you start off with a real free range egg it is a whole other thing.

Plump poached eggs are a cinch – no special equipment is needed, just a fresh egg.

Homemade mayonnaise emulsifies in seconds, classic Hollandaise or Bearnaise are whipped up in minutes.

An omelette is a thing of beauty – the texture and flavour a revelation. So this week I concentrate on simple recipes where the humble egg stars and delights.

Foolproof Food

Perfect Poached Eggs on Toast

No fancy egg poachers or moulds are needed to produce a perfect result - simply a really fresh egg laid by a happy lazy hen.

Serves 1

2 eggs, free-range if possible 
toast, freshly made from a slice of pan loaf

Bring a small saucepan of water to the boil, reduce the heat, swirl the water, crack the egg and slip gently into the whirlpool in the centre. For perfection the water should not boil again but bubble very gently just below boiling point. Continue to cook for 3-4 minutes until the white is set and the yolk still soft and runny.

Meanwhile make a slice of toast, cut off the crusts, butter and pop onto a hot plate. Drain the poached egg or eggs and place on top. Serve immediately.

Note: Poached eggs are also delicious served on a bed of creamy spinach nicely flavoured with nutmeg, or on top of Piperonata.

A Great Kedgeree

Kedgeree immediately conjures up images of country house breakfasts which were often a veritable feast. It would usually have been served on a silver dish on the polished sideboard, so that guests could help themselves. Easy peasy to make and delicious for brunch.

Serves 6-8

450g (1lb) wild salmon, freshly cooked, or
225g (8oz) salmon and 225g (8oz) cooked smoked haddock or smoked mackerel
225g (8oz) white long grain basmati rice
3 hardboiled eggs, free-range and organic if possible
225ml (8fl oz) cream
40g (1 1/2oz) butter
1/2 teaspoon chilli flakes or a good pinch of cayenne 
3 tablespoons freshly chopped parsley
1 1/2 tablespoons chopped chives
Salt and freshly ground pepper 

Poach the piece of salmon in a small saucepan just large enough to fit it, cover with boiling salted water (use a dessertspoon of salt to every 600ml (1 pint) water*). Bring to the boil, cover and simmer for just 20 minutes. Turn off the heat, cover and leave to sit for a few minutes before removing from the water, cool. 

Meanwhile, cook the rice in boiling salted water, 8-10 minutes approx. Hard boil the eggs, also in boiling salted water for 10 minutes. Drain off the water and run under a cold tap to cool and stop the cooking. Peel and chop roughly.

Remove the skin and bones from the fish and flake into small pieces. 

Heat the cream and butter in a saucepan with the chilli flakes, a good pinch of cayenne if using and the chopped parsley and chives. As soon as it bubbles, add the cooked rice, flaked fish and the hardboiled egg. Season well with salt and freshly ground pepper. Mix very gently. Taste and correct seasoning if necessary. Pile into a hot dish and serve with freshly baked bread or with hot buttered toast.

*Note: if using fillet use 1 teaspoon of salt to 1 pint of water and cook for just 8 – 10 minutes.

A foolproof omelette

French Omelette

An omelette is the ultimate instant food but many a travesty is served in its name. The whole secret is to have the pan hot enough and to use clarified butter if at all possible. Ordinary butter will burn if your pan is as hot as it ought to be. The omelette should be made in half the time it takes to read this recipe, your first, may not be a joy to behold but persevere, practice makes perfect. The best tender golden omelettes take no more than 30 seconds to cook - 45 seconds if you are adding a filling - time yourself, you'd be amazed.

Serves 1

2 eggs, preferably free range organic
1 dessertspoon water or milk
salt and freshly ground pepper
1 dessertspoon clarified butter or olive oil
filling of your choice
omelette pan, preferably non stick, 23cm (9 inch) diameter 

Warm a plate in the oven. Whisk the eggs with the water or milk in a bowl with a fork or whisk, until thoroughly mixed but not too fluffy. Season with salt and freshly ground pepper. Put the warm plate beside the cooker. Heat the filling also to hand, hot if necessary with a spoon at the ready. 

Heat the omelette pan over a high heat - add the clarified butter it should sizzle immediately. Pour in the egg mixture. It will start to cook instantly so quickly pull the edges of the omelette towards the centre with a metal spoon or spatula, tilting the pan so that the uncooked egg runs to the sides 4 maybe 5 times. Continue until most of the egg is set and will not run any more, the centre will still be soft and uncooked at this point but will continue to cook on the plate. If you are using a filling, spoon the hot mixture in a line across the centre at this point.

To fold the omelette: Flip the edge just below the handle of the 

pan into the centre, then hold the pan almost perpendicular over the plate so that the omelette will flip over again, then half roll half slide the omelette onto the plate so that it lands folded in three. (It should not take more than 30 seconds in all to make the omelette, perhaps 45 if you are adding a filling).

Serve immediately.

Suggested Fillings

Tomato fondue with or without Pesto 

Piperonata 

Mushroom a la crème 

Crispy bacon, diced cooked ham or chorizo sausage

Goats cheese, grated Cheddar, Gruyere, Parmesan or a mixture.

Fines herbs: add 1 teaspoon each of freshly chopped parsley, chives, chervil and tarragon to the eggs just before cooking or scatter over the omelette just before folding.

Smoked salmon or smoked mackerel: add about 1 oz (30g) and perhaps a little finely chopped parsley or dill. 

Kidney: cook one cleaned and diced lamb's kidney gently in a little butter, add 1 teaspoon of freshly chopped parsley and keep warm.

How to clarify butter

Clarified butter is excellent for cooking because it can withstand a higher temperature when the salt and milk particles are removed. It will keep covered in a refrigerator for several weeks.

Melt 225g (8oz) butter gently in a saucepan or in the oven. Allow it to stand for a few minutes, then spoon the crusty white layer of salt particles off the top of the melted butter. Underneath this crust there is clear liquid butter which is called clarified butter. The milky liquid at the bottom can be discarded or used in a white sauce. Cover and store.

Pan РGrilled Steak with B̩arnaise Sauce

Of all the sauces to serve with steak, Béarnaise is my absolute favourite. We find a heavy-ridged cast-iron grill pan the best to cook the steaks when you don’t need to make a sauce in the pan.

Serves 6

6 x 6 oz (170 g) sirloin or fillet steaks
1 clove of garlic
A little olive oil
Salt and freshly ground pepper
Béarnaise Sauce (see recipe)
Garnish
Fresh watercress (optional)

Prepare the steaks about 1 hour before cooking. Cut a clove of garlic in half; rub both sides of each steak with the cut clove of garlic, grind some black pepper over the steaks and sprinkle on a few drops of olive oil. Turn the steaks in the oil and leave aside. If using sirloin steaks, score the fat at 1 inch (2.5 cm) intervals. Make the Béarnaise Sauce and keep warm. Heat the grill pan, season the steaks with a little salt and put them down onto the hot pan.

The approximate cooking times for each side of the steaks are:

Sirloin Fillet

rare 2 minutes 5 minutes

medium rare 3 minutes 6 minutes
medium 4 minutes 7 minutes
well done 5 minutes 8-9 minutes

Turn a sirloin steak over onto the fat and cook for 1-2 minutes or until the fat becomes dry. Put the steaks onto a plate and leave them rest for a few minutes in a warm place.

To Serve: Put the steaks on hot plates. Serve the Béarnaise Sauce over one end of the steak or in a little bowl on the side of the plate. Garnish with Pommes Allumettes and fresh watercress.

Bearnaise Sauce

4 tablespoons tarragon vinegar

4 tablespoons dry white wine 
2 teaspoons finely chopped shallots 
A pinch of freshly ground pepper 
1 tablespoonfreshly chopped French tarragon leaves
2 egg yolks (preferably free-range) 
115-175g (4-6 oz) butter approx., salted or unsalted depending on what it is being served with.
If you do not have tarragon vinegar to hand, use a wine vinegar and add some extra chopped tarragon. 

Boil the first four ingredients together in a low heavy bottomed stainless steel saucepan until completely reduced and the pan is almost dry but not browned. Add 1 tablespoon of cold water immediately. Pull the pan off the heat and allow to cool for 1 or 2 minutes.

Whisk in the egg yolks and add the butter bit by bit over a very low heat, whisking all the time. As soon as one piece melts, add the next piece; it will gradually thicken. If it shows signs of becoming too thick or slightly scrambling, remove from the heat immediately and add a little cold water. Do not leave the pan or stop whisking until the sauce is made. Finally add 1 tablespoon of freshly chopped French tarragon and taste for seasoning. 

If the sauce is slow to thicken it may be because you are excessively cautious and the heat is too low. Increase the heat slightly and continue to whisk until the sauce thickens to a coating consistency. It is important to remember, however, that if you are making Bearnaise Sauce in a saucepan directly over the heat, it should be possible to put your hand on the side of the saucepan at any stage. If the saucepan feels too hot for your hand it is also too hot for the sauce!

Another good tip if you are making Bearnaise Sauce for the first time is to keep a bowl of cold water close by so that you can plunge the bottom of the saucepan into it if it becomes too hot. 

Keep the sauce warm in a pyrex bowl over hot but not simmering water or in a Thermos flask until you want to serve it. 

Hot Tips

Courses 
www.organiccentre@eircom.net  Tel 071-98 54338 email:organiccentre@eircom.net 
Sarah Raven’s Cutting Garden – www.thecuttinggarden.com  Tel 0845 050 4849 tam.lawson@thecuttinggarden.com  
www.cookingisfun.ie  Ballymaloe Cookery School info@cookingisfun.ie  Tel 021-4646785

Reference Books
Small Scale Poultry Keeping – a guide to Free-Range Poultry Production - by Ray Feltwell , Faber & Faber
Keeping Pet Chickens - bring your garden to life and enjoy the bounty of fresh eggs from your own small flock of happy hens – by Johannes Paul and William Windham,

Interpet Publishing
Chickens at Home – by Michael Roberts – in the Gold Cockerel series published by Domestic Fowl Research UK
Hen and the Art of Chicken Maintenance – reflections on keeping chickens – by Martin Gurdon – New Holland

Cookbooks
Eggs by Michel Roux – Quadrille Publishing 2005
Irish Egg Cookbook by Nuala Cullen – Gill & Macmillan 2005
Get Cracking by Alex Barker – Southwater (Anness Publishing) 2001

I’ve just tucked into a delicious Shepherd’s Pie with garlic butter melting into the crispy potato on top. I hadn’t intended it to be quite so crispy but I put it into the Aga, poured myself a glass of wine and almost forgot about it. I love Shepherd’s Pie, it was so good.
We occasionally make it the day after we have a nice roast leg of lamb. Its best made with cooked lamb and left over gravy, it tastes quite different when its made with raw minced lamb or beef – the latter apparently should be called cottage pie.
Nonetheless, one doesn’t always have left over cooked lamb, so good fresh mince is the basis of so many heart-warming dishes and a myriad of other funky ones.
The secret of all mince is freshness – beef needs to be well hung and freshly minced. I am frightfully pernickety about mince and will only use it on the days its minced, not just for food safety reasons, but because it quickly sours even if it is carefully refrigerated. If you cannot cook it on the day, form the mince into a flat block and pop it in the freezer, of course it will keep for several months but its much better to use it up within a week or two.
Freshly minced pork makes the most delicious homemade sausages or patties. This recipe uses fresh herbs as a seasoning, but pork really benefits from spices, particularly coriander and chilli. Chubby little sausages are great dipped in a bowl of sweet chilli sauce, sharpened with a squeeze of fresh lime juice.
A nice spicy mince mixture is a great standby in your repertoire – great with pasta, or wrapped in lettuce leaves or used as a filling for a wrap. With a topping of mashed potatoes it makes a deliciously comforting dish to tuck into on a chilling Winter’s evening. Buy your mince from your local butcher, he can mince it freshly as you wait and you can choose the cut you want. It should have a small proportion of fat for extra succulence. 

Shepherd’s Pie with Garlic and Parsley Butter

Serves 6

I adore Shepherd’s Pie, it is best made with leftover cooked roast lamb. Nowadays however people rarely cook large enough joints of meat to have much left over so minced raw lamb is frequently used - nothing like as delicious.

30g (1oz) butter
110g (4oz) chopped onion
30g (1 oz) flour
450ml (¾pint) stock and left over gravy
1 teaspoon tomato puree
1 dessertspoon Mushroom Ketchup 
1 dessertspoon chopped parsley
1 teaspoon thyme leaves
salt and freshly ground pepper
450g (1lb) minced cooked lamb

900g (2lb) Mashed Potatoes 

Garlic and Parsley Butter

Melt the butter in a small saucepan, add the onion, cover with a round of greased paper and cook over a slow heat for 5 minutes. Add the flour and cook until brown. Add the stock and gravy, bring to the boil, skim if necessary. Add the tomato puree, mushroom ketchup, chopped parsley, thyme leaves, salt and pepper and simmer for 5 minutes.

Add the minced meat to the sauce and bring to the boil. Taste and correct seasoning.
Put in a pie dish or dishes. Cover with the mashed potatoes and score with a fork. Reheat in a moderate oven 180C/350F/regulo 4 for about 30 minutes approx., depending on size. Serve with Garlic and Parsley Butter, melting in the centre.
Cottage Pie
Substitute minced cooked beef instead of lamb. 
Garlic and Parsley Butter

100g (4oz) butter
2 tablespoons finely chopped parsley
squeeze of fresh lemon juice
5 cloves garlic, crushed

Cream the butter, stir in the parsley and a few drops of lemon juice at a time. Add the crushed garlic. Roll into butter pats or form into a roll and wrap in greaseproof paper or tin foil, screwing each end so that it looks like a cracker.
Refrigerate to harden.

Babotie 

Serves 8-10

This South African recipe was given to us by Alicia Wilkinson from Silwood Kitchens in Capetown.

generous 30ml (1fl oz) oil
1½ teaspoons butter
450g (1lb) fresh minced lamb
2 onions, chopped
2 cloves garlic, crushed
110g (4oz) grated carrot
2 teaspoons curry powder
1 teaspoon ground coriander
2½ teaspoons ground ginger
3 teaspoons finely chopped herbs
1 teaspoon turmeric
½ teaspoon cinnamon
sugar to taste - 1 teaspoon approx.
a piece of red chilli
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon pepper
10g (½ oz) almonds, chopped
some lemon leaves or ½ teaspoon finely grated lemon rind
generous 15ml (½ fl oz) wine vinegar
2 x 2.5cm (1inch) slices of sandwich loaf, soaked in water, drained and squeezed dry

Topping
250ml (9fl oz) buttermilk
2 large eggs, free-range and organic
salt and freshly ground pepper
2½ teaspoons turmeric 
seasoning

Heat the butter and oil, add onion and garlic and cook until soft. Add mince and stir well, add grated carrot, spices, chilli, seasoning, chopped almonds and lemon rind. Stir well and continue to cook until the flavours mingle. Stir in the soaked and squeezed bread, and the wine vinegar. Mix well, taste and correct seasoning.
Put the meat into a shallow rectangular baking dish and smooth over. 
Whisk all the ingredients together for the topping, check the seasoning and strain over the meat. Bake at once in a pre-heated oven 180C/350F/gas 4 until custard is set and golden.

Ragu

This flavour packed sauce is the basis for a delicious lasagne or simply toss it with freshly cooked tagliatelle. I have been making Marcella Hazan's version for many years from her Classic Italian Cookbook. It is the most delicious and concentrated one I know. Marcella says it should be cooked for several hours at the merest simmer but I find you get a very good result with 1-1 1/2 hours cooking on a diffuser mat. Ragu can be made ahead and freezes very well.

Serves 6

45g (1 1/2oz) butter
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons onion, finely chopped
2 tablespoons celery, finely chopped
2 tablespoons carrot, finely chopped
340g (12oz) minced lean beef, preferably chuck or neck
Salt
300ml (10fl oz) dry white wine
120ml (4fl oz) milk
1/8 teaspoon freshly ground nutmeg
1 x 400g (14oz) tin Italian tomatoes, roughly chopped with their own juice.

Small casserole

In Italy they sometimes use an earthenware pot for making ragu, but I find that a heavy enamelled cast-iron casserole with high sides works very well. Heat the butter with the oil and saute the onion briefly over medium heat until just translucent. Add the celery and carrot and cook gently for 2 minutes. Next add the minced beef, crumbling it in the pot with a fork. Add salt to taste, stir, and cook only until the meat has lost its raw red colour (Marcella says that if it browns it will lose its delicacy.) 
Add the wine, turn the heat up to medium high, and cook, stirring occasionally, until all the wine has evaporated. Turn the heat down to medium, add in the milk and the freshly grated nutmeg, and cook until the milk has evaporated, stirring every now and then. Next add the chopped tomatoes and stir well. When the tomatoes have started to bubble, turn the heat down to the very lowest so that the sauce cooks at the gentlest simmer - just an occasional bubble. I use a heat diffuser mat for this. 
Cook uncovered for a minimum of 1 1/2 hours (better still 2 or even 3), depending on how concentrated you like it, stirring occasionally. If it reduces too much add a little water and continue to cook. When it is finally cooked, taste and correct seasoning. Because of the length of time involved in cooking this, I feel it would be worthwhile to make at least twice the recipe.

Homemade Sausages with Bramley Apple Sauce

Makes 16 approx. - Serve 8

1 lb (450g) good fat streaky pork
2-4 teaspoons mixed fresh herbs eg. parsley, thyme, chives, marjoram and rosemary or sage
1 large clove garlic
1 egg, preferably free range
2½ ozs (70g) soft white breadcrumbs
Salt and freshly ground pepper
A little oil

Bramley Apple Sauce (see Foolproof Food )


Mince the pork. Chop the herbs finely and mix through the crumbs. Crush the garlic to a paste with a little salt. Whisk the egg then mix all the ingredients together thoroughly. Season with salt and freshly ground pepper. Fry off a little knob of the mixture to check the seasoning correct if necessary. Divide into 16 pieces and roll into lengths. Fry gently on a barely oiled pan until golden on all sides. They are particularly delicious served with Bramley Apple Sauce and Potato Cakes.

Note: For Breakfast you may want to omit the herbs and garlic.

Variations:

We do all kinds of twists on this recipe - for a change I recently substituted 2 tablespoons of fresh coriander for the mixed herbs in the sausage mixture and found it completely delicious. I also added a good pinch of sugar to enhance the sweetness in the oriental way. If you want to continue in that vein serve the sausages with Thai Dipping Sauce (see recipe) instead of the more traditional Scallion Champ and Bramley Apple Sauce.
Or omit the herbs, add finely chopped lemongrass, some chopped chilli and fish sauce for an Asian flavour. Wrap the sausages in rice paper wrappers and deep-fry to make crispy sausage rolls. Serve with sweet chilli sauce.

Penne with Pork Sausage, Cream and Basil

Serves 8

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 onion 175g (6ozs approx.), finely chopped
4 garlic cloves, crushed
250g (9oz) Italian sausages or minced belly of pork, skinned and crumbled
1 teaspoon fennel seeds, crushed
300ml (10fl.oz) double cream
500g (18oz) dried pasta
1 handful fresh basil, torn or watercress
salt and black pepper
freshly grated Parmesan to serve


Heat oil in large frying pan. Add onion and garlic and cook, stirring occasionally over medium high heat, until just golden, - 5 minutes. Add minced pork and fennel seeds. Cook, stirring frequently to break up meat, until it browns, about 10 minutes.

Stir in the cream and simmer until just thickened – 1-2 minutes. Add salt and freshly ground pepper to taste.

Meanwhile, cook pasta in large pot of boiling salted water until al dente. Drain reserving ½ cup pasta water. Add the pasta to the hot sauce. Add the torn basil leaves. Toss well to coat, adding reserved water as needed. Serve immediately with Parmesan.

900g (2lb) freshly minced beef
1 clove garlic
two teasps. Dijon mustard
salt and freshly ground pepper
1 tablesp. olive oil
2 ozs (55g) chopped onion
1 tablesp. chopped parsley
Tomato fondue - see below

Sweat the onion in the olive oil until soft. Mix the mince with the crushed garlic and mustard, season with salt and freshly ground pepper. Add the sweated onion and mix thoroughly. Fry the mixture on a very hot pan turning all the time. Add half or all the Tomato fondue, depending on taste. Simmer for a few minutes, taste and correct the seasoning. Serve spooned over freshly cooked pasta and scatter with chopped parsley.

Tomato Fondue

Serves 4-6

4oz (110g) sliced onions
1 clove of garlic - crushed 
1 dessertspoon olive oil
450g (1lb) very ripe tomatoes -in winter use tinned
Salt and freshly ground pepper 
Pinch of sugar 
2-3 tablespoon of any or a selection of the following chopped, parsley or annual marjoram 

In a heavy based saucepan sweat the sliced onions and garlic in oil on a gentle heat for about 10 minutes, sweat until soft but not browned. 

It is vital for the success of this dish that the onions are completely soft before the tomatoes are added. 

Put the tomatoes into a deep bowl and cover them with boiling water. Count to 10 and then pour off the water immediately; peel off the skins and slice.
Add the tomatoes to the onions. Season with salt, freshly ground pepper and sugar and add a generous sprinkling of chopped herbs 
Cook for just 10-20 minutes more, or until the tomato softens. Add lots of chopped herbs just before serving.

Yuk Sum

Serves 4

Don't let the name put you off! When my brother Rory and I came across this extraordinary-sounding dish on a menu in a Chinese restaurant in Birmingham we couldn't resist the temptation. It proved to be a delicious pork dish, served on lettuce leaves which are used to make little parcels as you eat it. This is my interpretation which though not authentic Cantonese, wins lots of compliments.

2 tablesp. olive oil
1 teasp. ginger, freshly grated 
2 tablesp. spring onion
8 ozs (225g) minced streaky pork
2 ozs (55g) mushrooms, chopped
1 oz (30g) celery, finely chopped
1 tablesp. Oyster sauce
salt and freshly ground pepper

Iceberg lettuce leaves

Garnish
?of a cucumber approx. cut into ¼ inch (5mm) thick julienne
8 spring onion 'sweeping brushes'

Heat a wok until very hot, add the olive oil, then add the grated ginger and spring onion, toss for a second or two, then add the pork, cook on a high heat until almost cooked, then push the pork up to the side of the wok, add the chopped mushrooms and toss until cooked. Add the celery, mix with the mushrooms and pork. Season with salt and freshly ground pepper, add the oyster sauce. Toss for a minute or two more. Taste and correct seasoning.
Put some crisp iceberg lettuce onto a plate, spoon 1-2 tablespoons of the pork mixture into the centre of each. Garnish the plate with julienne of cucumber and a couple of spring onion 'sweeping brushes'. Eat immediately by wrapping the pork, cucumber and spring onion in the lettuce to make a parcel.

Foolproof Food

Bramley Apple Sauce

The trick with apple sauce is to cook it on a very low heat with only a tiny drop of water so it is nice and thick and not too watery, always worth having in the freezer in little tubs in case you feel like a juicy pork chop for supper.

1 lb (450g) cooking apples (Bramley Seeding or Grenadier)
1-2 dessertspoons water
2 ozs (55g) approx. sugar (depending on how tart the apples are)

Peel, quarter and core the apples; cut the pieces in two and put them in a stainless or cast-iron saucepan, with sugar and water. Cover and cook on a very low heat until the apples break down in a fluff. Stir and taste for sweetness.

Serve warm and cold.



Hot Tips


Burren Beef
Developing a unique brand of beef in the Burren region in Co Clare could save the future of farming in the area – livestock herds that have traditionally grazed the vegetation are dwindling, now a local EU-funded initiative aims to produce and market a high-quality brand of beef to conserve the natural habitat and make farming more viable. The BurrenLIFE Project was established last year to develop a new model for sustainable agriculture in the limestone region known for its rich diversity of plants and flowers.
www.teagasc.ie/publications/2005/20051208 

Irish Seafood Cookery – A Celebration of Contemporary Irish Seafood Cooking from one of Ireland’s leading chefs -
This new publication in the Irish Cookery Library series is written by Martin Shanahan internationally renowned chef-proprietor of Kinsale’s Fishy Fishy Café with Sally McKenna of the Bridgestone Guides to Irish food. Published with the assistance of IASC – the Irish Association of Seafood Companies – Irish Seafood Cookery celebrates the best of Irish seafood and also features a Shopping Guide, telling you where to buy the best seafood from IASC members throughout Ireland. Price €3.99 – publication end February. 

Singapore and Thailand Epicurean Adventure in April, trip to Ancient temples of Angkor in Cambodia in May, next New Year’s Eve in Myanmar/Burma. … and much much more - 
Log on to www.globetrottinggourmet.com  
email robertandmorrison@globetrottinggourmet.com

I just got sent the loveliest book as a present from a sweet student Jane Oxborrow who did the September 2005 twelve week course – Recipes from an African Kitchen by Josie Stow and Ian Baldwin. Jane from London has been working in the Grumeti Game Reserves in Serengeti, Tanzania since 2004 www.grumetireserves.org . She, like so many others has totally fallen in love with Africa.
Food is really precious in Africa. It is also a labour of love, whether you are sowing seeds, rearing livestock, gathering wood to fuel the fire, or pumping water and carrying it back home. Food is more than just sustenance, it is a time for sharing. Meals are always communal and eaten with the hands. Touching the food and feeling it, adds to the enjoyment and contributes to the easy relaxed feeling. African cooking has always been wonderfully sociable. In most traditional African villages you can still see the women sitting under a tree, shelling nuts or singing, chanting and chatting as they rhythmically pound corn with a large, hand-carved pestle and mortar, called le hudu and le mose. It is a place for laughter and gossip, for building the close family bonds that are the envy of other cultures. Recipes are traditionally passed down from generation to generation by word of mouth and never rely on exact quantities. A handful, a calabash (a hollowed gourd) or a mug are the usual forms of measurement and cooks rely on feel, taste and memory.

Josie Stow’s love affair with Africa and life in the bush began back in 1992 when she accepted an offer to cook on a horseback safari in South Africa. For a young English girl from Suffolk this was a daunting task: the camp had no electricity and most of the cooking was done over an open wood fire or on a small gas burner.

She was soon having to deal with all kinds of exciting situations: buffalo in the camp, snakes in her larder and rhino grazing outside her tent at night. Her supplies had to be fetched from 150km away in a four-wheel drive vehicle. Despite this, she became fascinated by the African culture, especially the cooking techniques and ingredients. Her assistant Anna could speak not a word of English but they soon became firm friends and she began to show her the wonderful food culture that lay waiting to be discovered. It was there that she met her husband, Fred, who was a ranger at the camp. Their relationship started with cooking lessons; she couldn’t understand why it was taking him so long to master a simple quiche until it was too late!.

Since then, Josie and Fred have worked on a number of game reserves and lodges. In Kwa-Zulu Natal, she worked for Phinda Forest Lodge and found that the local people were incredibly diligent, growing their own corn, beans, pumpkins and Zulu truffles. In her time off she visited the chefs’ homes and gardens, a two-way process evolved. While she was teaching the African people to cook in a professional kitchen, she was learning about their food culture and soon realized what wonderful culinary talent lay dormant among these wonderfully resourceful people. She was amazed that most lodges and restaurants were serving European-style food. ‘South African’ food consisted primarily of butternut soup and Cape Brandy tart – it was too westernized.

From Phinda she went on to develop the kitchens at Makalali in the Northern Province, near the Kruger National Park. Her great friend Lori-Ann Newman came for a short visit and she convinced her to stay and help her. Lori was a natural cook and it was while working together at Makalali that many of these recipes were created and they would often discuss new dishes under the shade of an old lemon tree.

As they began exposing the guests to African food, they broke every convention they could think of , even the traditional breakfast, and what they couldn’t find in the local culture they borrowed from the rest of Africa. 

Recipes from an African Kitchen (Conran Octupus) is one of the most exciting and original books I have come across in a long time, yet the recipes are simple and accessible. Even though many are cooked over the open fire (I can’t wait for the summer to experiment), they can equally be cooked on a stove, under a grill or in the oven, depending on the recipe. Josie Stow is a cook with a ‘sure feel’ for food, her excitement and passion and love for Africa leap down from the text on each page, Ian Baldwin’s magical photos will make you want to book an African safari right away.

Spicy Fruit and Nuts

This dish could be cooked outdoors on the barbecue or prepared ahead and cooked on a picnic.

Serves 6-8

4 tablesp. Olive oil
120g (4½ oz) dried dates, pitted
60g (2½ oz) dried apricots
60g (2½ oz) almonds, whole, unblanched
60g (2½ oz) cashew nuts
60g (2½ oz) macadamia nuts, halved
60g (2½ oz) pecans, halved
Finely grated rind of 1 lemon or lime
2-3 tablesp. Coriander leaves
1 red chilli, deseeded and finely chopped
Salt and pepper

Equipment – large frying pan

Warm the oil in the frying pan over a medium heat. Add all the dried fruit and nuts and toss until the apricots and nuts begin to change colour. Remove from the heat and add the lemon or lime zest, coriander leaves and chilli,

Mix thoroughly, season to taste and serve straight from the pan.

Spiked Fruit with Star Anise

The syrup can be made well in advance and kept in the fridge until needed.

Serves 8

1.6kg (3½ lb) mixed fruit, such as blueberries, cherries, strawberries, papaya and pineapple

Lightly whipped cream to serve

For the Syrup:
400g (14oz) white granulated sugar
50g (2oz) star anise
750ml (1pint 6 fl.oz) water

To make the syrup – place the sugar, star anise and water in a saucepan. Bring to the boil and boil for 7 to 10 minutes until syrupy. Leave the syrup to cool.

Cut the fruit into equal-sized pieces.

Strain the syrup to remove the star anise, then return the syrup to the saucepan and add the fruit.

Place over a moderate heat and poach the fruits in the syrup until warmed through.

Serve the fruit in bowls with lots of syrup and some whipped cream.

Algerian Spatchcock Baby Chicken

Serves 6

2 tablesp aniseed
Juice of 3 lemons
2 onions, grated
A bunch of fresh coriander, chopped
5cm (2in) fresh ginger, peeled and grated
4 cloves garlic, crushed
2 teasp paprika
½ teasp cayenne pepper
A pinch of saffron threads
250ml (9fl.oz) olive oil
3 baby chickens
Salt and pepper

Toast the aniseed in a dry frying pan until fragrant, then crush it.

Combine the aniseed, lemon juice, onions, coriander, ginger, garlic, paprika, cayenne and saffron in a bowl and whisk in the olive oil.
Season the marinade mixture to taste, adding more cayenne and black pepper if necessary.
Use a large knife to spatchcock (see below) the baby chickens, then open them out and trim off any excess skin or surplus fat.

Place the chickens in a plastic bowl and rub them with the marinade.
Cover and place in the fridge to marinate for a minimum of 12 hours.
Bring the chickens to room temperature before cooking.

Cook on a grid over medium-hot coals or under a conventional grill, turning the chicken occasionally and basting with the remaining marinade – the chicken is done when the skin is crisp and the juices run clear when the thickest part of the leg is pierced with a skewr.
Note: Marinate the chicken for at least 12 hours, but preferably for a whole day.

To spatchcock a chicken - Insert a heavy chopping knife into the cavity of the chicken from the back end to the neck. Press down sharply to cut through the backbone. Alternatively place the chicken breast side down on the chopping board, using poultry shears cut along the entire length of the backbone as close to the centre as possible.

Open the bird out as much as possible. 
Injera

Makes 6-8

600g (1lb 5oz) self-raising flour
150g (5oz) wholemeal flour
1 teasp baking powder
2 teasp salt
About 500ml (18 fl.oz) soda water

Vegetable oil, for frying

Combine all the dry ingredients in a large bowl and make a well in the centre.
Gradually beat in the soda water and 1 litre (1 pint 15 fl.oz) of plain water, until a smooth, thin batter is obtained.
Heat a crêpe pan until hot. Add a little oil and swirl it around the pan.
Pour in some batter, swirling it around to form a thin layer like a crêpe. Cook the bread until bubbles appear on the surface, then flip over and cook the other side for 2 or 3 minutes.
Place the cooked injera on a plate, cover with a tea towel to keep warm and continue until all the batter is used.

Melktert

Serves 12

For the crust:
125g (4½ oz) butter
2 tablesp sugar
1 egg
185g (6½ oz) flour
1 teasp baking powder
½ teasp vanilla essence

For the filling:
35g (1½ oz) flour
3 tablesp cornflour
2 tablesp custard powder
1.2 litres (2 pints) milk
150g (5oz) white granulated sugar
2 eggs, separated
1 vanilla bean, split in half
2 teasp butter
1 teasp baking powder
2 teasp caster sugar
2 teasp ground cinnamon

28cm (11 inch) fluted tart tin
Baking beans

To make the crust, beat the butter and sugar together until light and creamy.
Add the egg, flour , baking powder and vanilla and mix until combined.
Press the pastry into the tart tin and chill for 45 minutes.
Preheat the oven to 180C/350F.gas 4
Lay a sheet of greaseproof paper inside the pastry case so that the edges come over the rim and fill with the baking beans.
Bake the pastry case for 15 minutes or until the sides begin to colour.
Remove the baking beans and greaseproof paper and continue cooking the pastry case for 5 minutes to dry out the base.
To make the filling, mix together the flour, cornflour and custard powder, adding a little of the milk to form a smooth paste.
Place the remaining milk in a saucepan with the sugar, egg yolks, vanilla bean and the cornflour paste.
Bring to a boil, stirring continuously, and simmer for 3 minutes.
Remove from the heat, stir in the butter and baking powder and set aside. Whisk the egg whites until they form soft peaks. Fold the whites into the custard mixture, then spoon into the pastry case, discarding the vanilla bean.
In a small bowl, stir together the caster sugar and cinnamon then sprinkle the mixture over the custard filling.
Place the tart in the refrigerator to set.

Goreme

This is a spicy cheese pureé that can be served as a dip or a spread. Try it with Shraak or with raw vegetables such as carrot sticks.

Serves 10-12

300g (10½ oz) feta cheese
300ml (11fl.oz) plain yogurt
2 cloves garlic, crushed
1 teasp paprika, plus extra to garnish
½ teasp cayenne
1 tablesp olive oil
Kalmata olives to garnish
Salt and pepper

Place the feta cheese and yogurt in a bowl and, using a fork, mash them together to form a paste.
Add the garlic, paprika, cayenne and a little salt and pepper to taste. Spoon the mixture into a serving bowl.
Drizzle the goreme with olive oil and garnish with some Kalamata olives and paprika before serving.

Shraak

Shraak is a thin, crisp unleavened bread that is great to serve with cheese and pickles.

Makes 16

500g (1lb 2oz) plain flour
½ teasp salt

Rolling pin

Place the flour and salt in a large bowl and stir in 250ml (9 fl.oz) lukewarm water or just enough to form a firm dough.
Knead the dough until smooth.
Cover and rest for 30 minutes to make the dough more pliable.
Preheat the oven to 200C/400F/gas 6.
Working on a floured surface, divide the dough into 16 equal pieces and roll them out into thin rounds.
Place the rounds on a floured baking sheet and bake for 10-12 minutes or until they puff up and lightly colour.

Lamb in Mechoui

Josie gives a description in the book of how to do a poacher’s roast by the light of the silvery moon – hanging the meat with a piece of rope from a branch overhanging your camp fire – find your location the day before and make sure you have help. Check the weather forecast too she says!

It would also make a delicious roast in your own kitchen.
Serves 8

3kg (6lb 11oz) leg of lamb with knuckle

For the mechoui:
20g (¾ oz) mint leaves, chopped
4 tablesp. freshly squeezed lemon juice
4 tablesp. Olive oil
2 cloves garlic, crushed
2 tablesp. ground coriander
2 teasp. ground cumin
2 teasp. paprika
1 teasp. cayenne pepper
Salt

Prepare the mechoui by mixing all the ingredients together in a bowl. Rub the marinade over the leg of lamb.
Place the meat in a plastic container and leave to marinate for 24 hours in the refrigerator or other very cool place.
Preheat the oven to 180C/350F/gas 4. Sprinkle the lamb with salt and roast for 15-17 minutes per 500g (1lb)

Foolproof Food

Coconut and Lime Cookies

Makes 24

100g (3½ oz) butter
100g (3½ oz) white sugar
55g (2oz) desiccated coconut
1 teasp freshly squeezed lime juice
1 teasp finely grated lime zest
1 egg, beaten
175g (6oz) plain flour
1 teasp cream of tartar
½ teasp bicarbonate of soda
¼ teasp salt

Baking sheet, greased
Cream the butter and sugar together until light and fluffy.
Add the desiccated coconut, lime juice and zest and mix well.
Beat in the egg.
Sift together the flour, cream of tartar, bicarbonate of soda and salt and fold them into the butter mixture until a dough forms.
Place the dough on a sheet of greaseproof paper and roll into a cylinder about 5cm/2in in diameter, twisting the ends of the paper together. Place in the freezer until the dough is firm.
Preheat the oven to 200C/400F/gas 6.
Peel the greaseproof paper away from the cylinder and cut the dough into 5mm/¼in round slices.
Place the cookies on a greased baking sheet and bake for 5-7 minutes.
Remove from the oven and cool on a wire rack.

Hot Tips

Euro-Toques Ireland Small Food Initiative – Log onto www.goodfood.ie  to keep up to date with details of the good food on your doorstep.

Learn to cook Good Things –
Carmel Somers has an exciting range of cooking classes on offer in 2006 – small classes – morning, evening, day, weekend and week long courses in Good Things Café, Durrus, nr Bantry, West Cork. Tel 027-61426 www.thegoodthingscafé.com  info@thegoodthingscafé.com

Cardiff has changed beyond all recognition in the last ten years. My last visit about 25 years ago was when we were exporting a large quantity of mushrooms from Imokilly Orchards in Shanagarry to Wales every week. Cardiff was singularly uninspiring and there didn’t seem to be any carrot to entice one to return. All that’s changed and how?

Billions of EU and developers’ money has been poured into a variety of projects to revitalize the city. The Millennium stadium in the heart of the city is already familiar to the many Irish rugby fans who pour into town to cheer on the lads in the Six Nations tournament. That, plus the waterside development on Cardiff Bay, with its bars, restaurants, shops, galleries and beautiful theatre, has transformed the Welsh capital from industrial city into a lively modern metropolis with a deep sense of its own identity. 

Most bizarre, and best fun of all, Cardiff seems to be the stretch limo capital of Wales, we counted eight limos in the space of five minutes, plus a converted pink fire engine with the driver dressed up in full fireman regalia. They are hugely popular for parties in the evenings and come with built in cocktail bars and some tasty eats. According to our taxi driver one limo even has a built in open-air hot tub– Some seat 16 people, a mere snip from £200 a night!

On a recent visit to the Soil Association Conference I attended a Slow Food dinner in the Coal Exchange, Gareth Johns chef of the Wynnstay Hotel in Machynlleth, Lavinia Vaughan of Porth Farm, and a group of Welsh Slow Food volunteers, cooked a meal for 450 delegates which celebrated the organic produce from farmers and artisan producers all over Wales.

For the very first time I tasted the sweet little tiny cockles of Penclawdd, and the famous laverbread, a seaweed that grows on the rocks along the shoreline. Other canapés included Welsh Rarebit, Pickled leeks, Lady Llanover’s Salt Duck, Welsh mountain mutton, Ham with Anglesey Cream Cheese, Maldwyn cure air dried Welsh Black Beef from Powys and Halen Mon, the Sea Salt from Anglesey.

For main course each guest was served a thick slice of superb Welsh Black Beef with a delicious red wine sauce and a mixture of Winter vegetables and organic greens from local growers. The beef was truly superb and it was a delight to see the Welsh farmers and chefs’ appreciation of this traditional breed. That was followed by a selection of delicious Welsh cheese, a crumbly Wensleydale, a Cothi Valley goat cheese called Caws Valley with homemade crackers. There were three desserts, a delicious rice pudding, a tangy lemon posset, and an apple and cinnamon tartlet which rounded off this celebration meal of slow and organic food in a most delicious way.

For the past three years at the Soil Association Annual Conference, Slow Food has collaborated with the Soil Association to produce Slow Food lunches which have been a showcase for organic artisan producers in different parts of the UK.

At the conference lunch I had some other tastes of Wales – Glamorgan sausages, Leek Pie, Welsh Onion Cake, Welsh Cakes, Cawl and Monmouth Tart – so in just a few days I had the opportunity to taste many of the traditional dishes from Welsh miners cottages, farmhouses and mansions. Tables were decorated with daffodils, a traditional outdoor variety from the Vale of Glamorgan, and after dinner there was Welsh story-telling.

If you find yourself in Cardiff for the weekend don’t miss the terrific Riverside Real Food Market on Sunday morning, on the Fitzgammon embankment opposite the Millennium Stadium. Look out for the FreshFishWales stall which sells cockles, laverbread, and the Bake my Cake stall which sells the yummiest pies and cardamom, lemon and polenta buns. Young gardener Tom Bean sold little pots of snowdrops and daffodils and a rare Arugula called Friarielli which I’ve never before seen outside Italy.

Great place to buy local food and a delicious picnic for the plane. 

Welsh Onion Cake 

- Teisen Nionod (from British Food by Jane Grigson)

A dish that resembles certain French gratins. It can be cooked and served on its own or with roast lamb and laver sauce. 
Serves 6

1kg (2lb) firm potatoes
500g (1lb) onion, chopped
125-150g (4-5oz) butter
Pepper, salt

Peel or scrape the potatoes, as appropriate. Slice them paper-thin or close to it, using a mandolin or a processor. Swish the slices about in cold water to get rid of the starchy juice, then dry them.

If you want to turn the cake out, use a cake tin: grease it with a butter paper, then line it with greaseproof or Bakewell paper to make the turning out easier. If you want to serve it as a gratin, use a shallow ovenproof dish, and butter it well with some of the butter in the ingredients list.

Put in a layer of potatoes, then bits of butter, seasoning and a layer of onions. Repeat, finishing with potato. According to whether or not you intend to turn it out, take great care arranging the bottom or the top layer. Do not worry if the potato mounds up above the dish: it will cook down.

Bake for an hour at gas 6, 200C (400F), covered with foil. For the last 10 or 15 minutes, remove the foil so the potatoes can brown. This works well if you are serving it with a rack of lamb or a guard of honour. If you are cooking a more solid piece of lamb, at a lower temperature, the cake will have to cook for a longer time. If it is ready before the lamb, remove it and keep it warm.

Note: A little liquid does not come amiss – say 150ml (¼ pt) beef stock or the same quantity of single cream, plus 6 tablespoons of water.

Macaroon Lemon Posset

From The Duchess of Devonshire’s Chatsworth Cookery Book, published by Frances Lincoln

Serves 6

For the macaroons (makes about 20)

60g (2½oz) ground almonds
125g (4½oz) caster sugar
1 tablespoon ground rice (fine)
2 egg whites
A few drops of vanilla essence
Almond flakes for decoration

For the Posset:
425ml/¾ pint double cream
Juice and grated zest of 1½ unwaxed lemons
125g/4½oz caster sugar
1 tablespoon rum

Start by making the macaroons. Preheat the oven to 180C/350F/Gas 4. Line two baking trays with silicone paper.

To make the macaroons, combine the dry ingredients and stir in the egg whites and vanilla essence. Using a 1cm/½in plain nozzle, pipe the mixture onto the trays in small mounds of about 2.5cm/1in in diameter, leaving a space between each one because they will spread. Place a few almond flakes on each and bake in the oven for about 25 minutes. The macaroons harden as they cool down, so using a palette knife, transfer them to a cooling rack as soon as you take them out of the oven.

To make the posset, combine the cream, grated lemon zest and caster sugar in a pan and bring to the boil for a minute. Take off the heat and stir in the lemon juice and rum Strain the mixture into a jug to remove the lemon zest.

Place a macaroon in each of six 100ml/4fl.oz ramekins, and pour over the posset mixture, filling each ramekin to the top. Cool and refrigerate for 2-3 hours to set and chill.

Bara Brith

Helen Holton a student on our current 3 month Certificate Course is from Caernarvon in Wales and she kindly shared this recipe with us.

10oz (275g) self-raising flour
5oz (150g) mixed fruit
5oz (150g) castor sugar
2oz (50g) butter, melted
1 egg (beaten) and enough milk to make up 6 fl.oz (180ml) liquid

Sieve the flour, add the sugar and mixed fruit and combine.
Add milk and egg mix.
Finally add the melted butter.
Put the mixture into a lined loaf tin.
Bake in a slow oven 300F/150C/gas 2 , on the middle shelf for 1 hour approx.
When cool slice thinly and spread with butter.

Cawl

This traditional Welsh soup is another of Helen’s recipes. Some recipes use also use smoked ham or gammon instead of lamb. According to Jane Grigson in her book ‘English Food’ “this kind of dish has no ‘correct’ version or original recipe. It varies from region to region, according to the local resources, and from house to house within the same village, even from day to day in the same house”. “For most people it was a case of putting into the big iron pot water, and as much else as they could find to flavour it and give it substance.”

Scrag end lamb
Beef Brisket 
Leeks
Carrots
Onions
Potatoes – not floury type – eg King Edward or Desiree
Stock
Parsley

Bring meat and onion(s) depending on size to boil – skim.
Add carrots and stock. Season and slow cook (if using an Aga its on for hours or overnight).

Add potatoes and when they are nearly cooked, add the leeks.

Sprinkle with lots of chopped parsley at the end.

It can be served as whole soup or traditionally the meat and vegetables are taken out and served as a separate dish.

Serve with good bread and Caerphilly cheese.

Welsh Cakes

– from Sue Lawrence on Baking, published by Kyle Cathie

Welsh cakes are traditionally cooked on a bakestone. This was originally a large slab of stone, heated up on a peat fire or a log. Today, however, bakestones are usually made of iron or some other heavy metal. The cakes are no longer placed on the fire but on a gas or electric hotplate. A large heavy frying pan will do instead, although it is less easy to maintain an even temperature.
There are many variations of this recipe, using different combinations of spices and fruit.
Makes about 12.

227g (8oz) self-raising flour
A pinch of salt
½ teaspoon mixed spice
¼ teaspoon ground mace
57g (2oz) butter, cut into cubes
57g (2oz) white vegetable fat, in cubes
85g (3oz) caster sugar
85g (3oz) dried fruit
1 egg, beaten
Approx. 1 tablespoon milk
Caster sugar to sprinkle (optional) 

Sift the flour, salt and spices together into a mixing bowl.
Rub in the fats until the mixture resembles breadcrumbs.
Stir in the sugar and dried fruit.

Add the beaten egg and just enough milk to form a soft dough. The result should be firmer than a scone dough. Roll this out on a floured board to a thickness of about 5mm/¼in. Using an 8cm/3in pastry cutter, cut into rounds.

Lightly grease a bakestone or griddle and heat to medium-hot. Cook the Welsh cakes (in 2 batches) for 4-5 minutes on each side, or until golden brown on both sides, but still soft in the middle. For a crunch exterior, sprinkle with caster sugar. Eat warm.

Welsh Rarebit

Welsh rarebit makes a delicious snack and also can be a lunch or supper dish or served with a salad.

Serves 4

2 oz (15g) butter
1 teasp. plain white flour
1 fl.oz (25ml) milk
1 tablesp. Dijon mustard
8 ozs (225g) mature Cheddar cheese, grated
2 fl.ozs (50ml) Murphy or Guinness or beer
freshly ground black pepper
1 teasp. Worcestershire sauce
1 egg, free range if possible
4 slices of white bread

Melt the butter in a small saucepan, add the flour and cook over a low heat for 1-2 minutes. Whisk in the milk and cook until it thickens. Add the mustard, cheese, stout or beer. Season with freshly ground pepper. Stir with a wooden spoon over a low heat, bring the mixture to the boil, take off the heat. Add the Worcestershire sauce and beaten egg. Allow this mixture to cool.

Toast the bread lightly on both sides. Spread the mixture thickly on top and pop under a hot grill until bubbly and golden.

Foolproof food

American buttermilk pancakes

– you could even try them out for Sunday brunch this weekend!

American Buttermilk Pancakes with Crispy Bacon and Maple Syrup

Seves 4-6 depending on the size or helping

Makes 14 – 3” pancakes

250ml (8 flozs) buttermilk
1 free-range egg, preferably organic
15g (½ oz) butter, melted
75g (3oz) plain white flour
Good pinch of salt
1 teaspoon bread soda

To serve:
Butter
12-18 pieces crispy bacon
Maple syrup or Irish honey

Mix the buttermilk, egg and melted butter in a large bowl, until smooth and blended. Sieve the flour, salt and baking soda together, stir into the buttermilk until the ingredients are barely combined, don’t worry about the lumps. Do not over mix or the pancakes will be heavy.

Heat a heavy iron or non-stick pan until medium hot. Grease with a little clarified butter. Spoon 2 generous tablespoons of batter onto the pan, spread slightly with the back of the spoon to a round about 17.5cm (3in) across. Cook until the bubbles rise and break on the top of the pancake (about a minute). Flip over gently. Cook until pale golden on the other side. Spread each with butter.

Serve a stack of three with crispy streaky bacon and maple syrup.

Hot Tips

Cardiff Restaurant Scene - is also on the ascent.

Le Gallois in Romilly Crescent, Canton, 029 2034 1264 probably serves the most interesting food and is certainly an ‘offaleaters’ dream. I enjoyed lambs’ tongues with salsa verde and beef cheek with roast winter vegetables.

Brazz in the Millenium Centre on Cardiff Bay 029 2045 9000 and Le Monde on St Mary’s Street, 029 2038 7376 are also worth a visit.

Laguna Restaurant in the glitzy sounding Crown Park Plaza Hotel served a delicious risotto with Jerusalem artichokes and Welsh Rarebit with Branston Pickle toasts.

Failte Ireland, the National Tourism Development Authority
Will be running a series of continuing professional development programmes in all areas of tourism and hospitality in 2007 – courses are run nationwide – for details of courses in each area – Cork 021-4313058 carmel.barry@failteireland.ie  Dublin 01-8847766 ruth.campbell@failteireland.ie  Galway 091-561432 agnes.odonnell@failteireland.ie  Midlands 01-8847766