I’ve just got a present of a wonderful bouquet, more precious than orchids – a bunch of fresh organic Irish asparagus. The season is short, just 5 or 6 weeks – May into early June, depending on the vagaries of the weather. Most of the cookery students were astonished to hear that asparagus had a season, like most other vegetables its available in the supermarkets from January to December.

Irish grown asparagus in season is quite another thing, sometimes you can get the thin spears called sprew, delicious little wisps, perfect for salads, risotto or for dipping into a freshly boiled egg instead of soldiers of toast.
The plumper spears can be quickly cooked and served unadorned with a little silky Hollandaise.

Serious gourmands and country house kitchens will have a special tall asparagus pot with internal basket to keep the precious spears upright while they cook. That way the ends are cooked while the tender tips are steamed. Ideal, but not essential. An oval cast-iron pot or even an ordinary saucepan will do the trick, oval is good because it fits the spears more neatly.

Freshness is of paramount importance – like corn, the most sublime and unforgettable asparagus is that which is rushed from the asparagus bed in the garden, into the pot. For that reason it is truly worth considering making a little raised bed in your garden so you can indulge in even five or six asparagus feasts each year. That’s the ultimate, but for the rest of us it’s a question of buying the asparagus as fresh as possible. Keep an eye out for tightly closed tips, if they are beginning to open the asparagus will be past its best.

Preparation is simple, hold an asparagus spear close to the end in your hand between your thumb and index finger. Bend the spear over your finger, the woody end of the asparagus will snap at the point where the stalk is beginning to get tough, use the trimmings for stock or soup. Some cooks like to peel the stalk with a potato peeler but I feel that results in a loss of flavour, cook and eat as soon as possible.

Roast Asparagus with Sea Salt and Parmesan

Roast asparagus as in the previous recipe. 

Sprinkle a little freshly grated Parmesan cheese, preferably Parmigiano Reggiano, and sea salt over the roast asparagus and eat immediately. Completely exquisite!

Tagliatelle with Cream and Asparagus

Wickedly rich but utterly delicious once a year!

Serves 4 as a main course

8 ozs (225 g) fresh Irish asparagus
8 ozs (225 g) tagliatelle, preferably fresh and homemade
4 pints (2.3L) water
2 large tablespoons salt
1 oz (30 g) butter
6 ozs (170 g) best quality cream
2 ozs (55 g) freshly grated Parmesan cheese, preferably Parmigiano Reggiano
Freshly ground pepper, nutmeg and sea salt

Snap off the root end of the asparagus where it breaks naturally; cook the asparagus in boiling salted water until al dente, drain and save.

Bring the water to a good rolling boil, add the salt and drop in the tagliatelle; cover the pot for just a few seconds until the water comes back to the boil. Cook the tagliatelle until barely al dente (remember it will cook a little more in the pan). Homemade tagliatelle will take only 1-2 minutes whereas bought pasta will take considerably longer – 10-12 minutes depending on the brand.

Cut the asparagus into thin slices at an angle (no thicker than ¼ inch/5mm). Melt the butter in a wide saucepan, add half the cream and simmer for a couple of minutes just until the cream thickens slightly; then add the asparagus, the hot drained tagliatelle, the rest of the cream and the cheese. Season with freshly ground pepper, nutmeg and sea salt. Toss briefly – just enough to coat the pasta, taste and add a little more seasoning if necessary. Serve immediately.

Asparagus and Spring Onion Tart

Serves 6

Shortcrust Pastry
4 ozs (110 g) white flour
2 ozs (55 g) butter
1 egg, preferably free-range

Filling
5 ozs (140 g) asparagus, trimmed and with ends peeled
½ oz (15 g) butter
1 tablespoon olive oil
9 ozs (255 g) onion, finely chopped (we use about half spring onion complete with green tops and half ordinary onion)
4 ozs (110 g) Irish Cheddar cheese, grated
3 eggs, preferably free-range
4 fl ozs (120 ml) cream
Salt and freshly ground pepper

1 x 7 inch (18 cm) quiche tin or 1 x 7 (18 cm) flan ring

First make the shortcrust pastry. Sieve the flour into a bowl and rub in the butter until the mixture resembles coarse breadcrumbs. Mix in the egg to bind the pastry. Add a little water if necessary, but don’t make the pastry too sticky. Chill for 15 minutes. Then roll out the pastry to line the quiche tin or flan ring to a thickness of 1/8 inch (3mm) approx. Line with greaseproof paper and fill to the top with dried beans and bake blind for approximately 20 minutes in a moderate oven, 180C/350F/Gas 4. Remove the beans, egg wash the base and return to the oven for 1-2 minutes. This seals the pastry and helps to avoid a ‘soggy bottom’.

Next make the filling. Melt the butter, add the olive oil and onions; sweat the onions with a good pinch of salt until soft but not coloured. 

Cook the asparagus in boiling salted water until al dente, then drain. When it is cool enough to handle, cut into ½ inch (1 cm) pieces. 

Whisk the eggs in a bowl; add the cream, almost all the cheese, onion and the cooked asparagus. Season with salt and freshly ground pepper. Pour into the pastry case, sprinkle the remainder of the cheese on top and bake in a moderate oven 180C/350F/Gas 4, for 40-45 minutes.

Asparagus and Mint Frittata

Serves 6

8 eggs, preferably free-range 
225g (8oz) thin asparagus
Salt and freshly ground pepper
55g (2oz) Parmesan, Parmigano Reggiano, freshly grated or
25g (1oz) Parmesan and 25g (1oz) Gruyere
2-3 tablespoons chopped mint leaves
2 tablespoons olive oil

non stick frying pan - 7½ inch (19cm) bottom, 9 inch (23cm) top rim 

Bring about 1 inch of water to the boil in an oval casserole. Trim the tough ends of the asparagus, add salt to the water and blanch the spears until just tender for 3 or 4 minutes. Drain. Slice the end of the spears evenly at an angle keep 1½ inches at the top intact. Save for later.

Whisk the eggs together into a bowl. Add the sliced asparagus, most of the grated Parmesan and chopped mint leaves, reserving a little for the end. Season well with salt and freshly ground pepper. 

Heat the oil in the pan, add egg mixture, reduce the heat. Continue to cook over a gentle heat until just set - about 12 minutes. Arrange the asparagus over the top. Sprinkle with the remaining mint and Parmesan. Pop under a grill for a few minutes but make sure it is at least 5 inches from the element. It should be set but not brown. Serve immediately , cut into wedges and follow with a green salad.

Bread Pudding with Asparagus and Fontina

Mary Risley from Tante Marie's Cooking school in San Francisco shared this delicious recipe with us.

Serves 8

12-16 thick slices of best quality white bread
600ml (1 pint) milk or 425ml (15 fl oz) + 140ml (5 fl oz) buttermilk
560g (1lb) asparagus
4 eggs, preferably free range and organic
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon freshly ground pepper
28g (¾oz) freshly grated Parmesan cheese, Parmigiano Reggiano
225 g (8oz) Fontina cheese, Swiss cheese or other white cheese, roughly grated
15g (2oz) butter

Lasagne dish: 10 x 8 inches in diameter

Preheat the oven to 180C/350F/regulo 4.

First butter the bread and then whisk the eggs with the milk. Trim the asparagus spears. Bring a little water to the boil in a heavy oval casserole, add salt. Add asparagus and cook for 3-4 minutes or until al dente. Drain and refresh under cold water. Cut in thin diagonal slivers. 

Pour a little of the egg and milk mixture into the base of a buttered lasagne dish. Arrange a layer of bread on top. Sprinkle half the asparagus over the bread. Season well with salt and freshly ground pepper. Strew one third of each of the cheeses on top. Pour some of the egg mixture on this layer then repeat the layers and seasoning and finish with a layer of bread. Pour the remainder of the liquid evenly over the top. Sprinkle with the remaining cheese. Bake in a bain-marie in the preheated oven for about 45 minutes or until crisp and golden on top. Serve with a good green salad.

Asparagus on Toast with Hollandaise Sauce

This is a simple and gorgeous way to serve fresh Irish asparagus during its short season, it

was my father-in-law's favourite way to eat Irish asparagus during its short season.
Serves 4

16-20 spears fresh green asparagus
Hollandaise sauce, (see recipe)
4 slices of homemade white yeast bread
butter
Garnish
sprigs of chervil

Hold each spear of asparagus over your index finger down near the root end, it will snap at the point where it begins to get tough. Some people like to peel the asparagus but we rarely do. Cook in about 2.5cm (1inch) of boiling salted water in an oval cast iron casserole. Cook for 4 or 8 minutes or until a knife tip will pierce the root end easily. Meanwhile make the toast, spread with butter and remove crusts. Place a piece of toast on a hot plate, put the asparagus on top and spoon a little Hollandaise sauce over. Garnish with a sprig of chervil and serve immediately.

Asparagus Bundles with Sauce Hollandaise
This is a rather fancy way to serve asparagus. you could dispense with the ties and just serve them with the sauce if you like
Serves 4

1½-2 lbs (560-900g) fresh asparagus
1 leek or some chives
Sauce Hollandaise 
Garnish
chervil

Wash the leek (if using) and cut in half lengthways. Blanch and refresh under cold water. Drain on kitchen paper. Peel and trim the root end of the asparagus. Cut into uniform lengths and save the trimmings for soup. 

Make the sauce and keep warm. Just before serving, cook the asparagus in boiling salted water. If you have a special asparagus pot, that's wonderful, but you can manage very well without it. Depending on the thickness of the spears it may take from 8-12 minutes to cook. Test by putting the tip of a sharp knife through the thicker end. Remove from the water and drain. Tie the asparagus into bundles of 3 or 5 with the strips of leek. Put a generous tablespoonful of Sauce Hollandaise on each warm plate and place the asparagus bundle on top. Garnish with chervil and serve immediately.

Sauce Hollandaise

Serves 4-6, depending on what it is to be served with.

2 egg yolks, free-range
4 ozs (110g) butter
1 dessertsp. cold water
1 teasp. lemon juice approx.

Serve with poached fish, eggs and vegetables

Put the egg yolks into a heavy stainless steel saucepan on a low heat, or in a bowl over hot water. Add the water and whisk thoroughly. Add the butter bit by bit, whisking all the time. As soon as one piece melts, add the next piece. The mixture will gradually thicken, but if it shows signs of becoming too thick or slightly 'scrambling' remove from the heat immediately and add a little cold water if necessary. Do not leave the pan or stop whisking until the sauce is made. Finally add the lemon juice to taste. If the sauce is slow to thicken it may be because you are excessively cautious and the heat is too low. Increase the heat slightly and continue to whisk until the sauce thickens to coating consistency.

It is important to remember that if you are making Hollandaise Sauce in a saucepan directly over the heat, it should be possible to put your hand on the side of the saucepan at any stage. If the saucepan feels too hot for your hand it is also too hot for the sauce.

Another good tip if you are making Hollandaise Sauce for the first time is to keep a bowl of cold water close by so you can plunge the bottom of the saucepan into it if it becomes too hot.

Keep the sauce warm until service either in a bowl over hot but not boiling water, or in a thermos flask. Hollandaise Sauce should not be reheated. Leftover sauce may be used as an enrichment for cream sauces, or mashed potatoes, or to perk up a fish pie etc.
Foolproof Food

Roast Asparagus with Sea Salt

This rather bizarre way of cooking asparagus comes to us from California. Roast asparagus may sound unlikely, but its flavour is wonderfully intense and particularly good served as part of a plate, which includes chargrilled red and yellow peppers, aubergine slices, chargrilled onions and courgettes with marjoram.

Serves 4

1 bunch of fresh Irish asparagus
1 tablespoon approx extra virgin olive oil
Sea salt (Maldon if possible)

Trim the asparagus and peel the root ends with a swivel top peeler. Drizzle the spears with a little olive oil. Toss gently to coat, season with sea salt, put onto a roasting tin and roast in a hot oven, 230C/450F/Gas 8, for 8-10 minutes.

Serve with crusty bread.


Hot Tips

Look out for fresh new season’s asparagus at your local Farmers’ Market –
Check out www.irelandmarkets.com  – this site will give you details of the farmers’ market nearest to you, also lists country markets in the area. Anyone setting up new markets should also contact the site for a wealth of advice and information.

Visit the seven new Artist Workshops at Stephen Pearce Gallery in Shanagarry, East Cork. This is a unique facility designed to support individual or small groups of artists in developing their art and craft which will be available for sale in the workshops – paintings, furnishings, textiles, jewellery, spices, pottery …..The project has been part funded by East Cork Area Development under the rural development scheme.

Great Taste Awards
Last week Bord Bia hosted a Speciality Food Forum for 150 leading buyers from UK, Ireland and Continental Europe with a combined purchasing power of almost €8 billion. To coincide with the event the UK Guild of Fine Food Retailers brought the Irish element of the Great Taste Awards to Ireland for the first time. Congratulations to Myrtle Allen who was presented with the inaugural Lifetime Achievement Award by the Taste Council for her pioneering work in promoting Irish food and cooking. 

Boulangerie, Patisserie, Epicerie, Viennoiserie, Brasserie, Trattoria – cobbled streets near Gare St Lazare – how divine is Paris. Its years since I’ve been here. The sun is shining, everyone seems to be in high spirits, Parisians dressed to impress, sitting at the pavement cafes drinking tea or sipping beer or a glass of wine. I’m over here for the weekend for my first ever ‘hen party’, twenty friends of a ‘certain age’ have converged excitedly on Paris to launch our friend on her very first venture up the aisle. She looks wonderful, absolutely radiant. We meet at sunset to toast her with lots of delicious fizz. Everyone comes bearing silly presies – a little veil, a tiara, lots of teeny frilly bits, each of which causes great hilarity when the parcels are opened.

Later we repair to La Closerie des Lilas for a delicious dinner. Grilled fat shrimps with risotto, Sea Bass with Anise Hollandaise with a tian of vegetables and a delicious charlotte of seasonal fruit for pudding.

For the rest of the weekend we drift in and out of groups, each following their own passion, some shopping, others seeking out museums or galleries. I caught the last day of the Bonnard Exhibition at the Musée d’Arte Moderne. Even by 9am on Saturday morning there was a considerable queue, but the bonus was the Farmers Market all along the Avenue Pierre de Serbie. Maybe 35 or 40 stalls brimming with vegetables and lots of food ready to eat, steaming soups, fat sandwiches, and some delicious Lebanese food. For breakfast I ordered several Lamajun, one with minced lamb, and another with sesame seeds, olive oil, pepper and thyme. They were cooked on a stove called a Sag, it looked like an upturned wok over a gas jet. Each had a topping of hummus and tabouleh – wish we could get more Lebanese food over here – so good. These can be made easily at home and are brilliant for an interactive kitchen supper.

I revisited some of my old haunts – I adore Café Flore – a Parisian institution, a great spot for people watching, I ordered a Croque Monsieur and watched the Parisians promenading with their little ‘chien’ on a lead. Deux Magots around the corner is also a favourite and overlooks the ancient church of St Germain de Prés. Across the road is Brasserie Lipp where I tucked into Choux Croute garni and Andouillettes for lunch. My friends wanted to know what the andouillettes were made from? I told them they didn’t need to know what they are made from, also difficult to describe the flavour - they taste like a barnyard smells! I so love all those delicious offaly bits that one can still get in France because the French really appreciate the flavour.

At the organic market on Rue Raspail on Sunday morning, the longest queues were at the stall selling unpasteurised milk and cream and yoghurt. Later in the day I visited Artisan baker Poilane in Rue Cherche Midi where I bought a huge sour dough loaf with the traditional P inscribed on the crust. They also sell the best bread knives in the world and melt in the mouth sablés and flaky apple tartlets. Round the corner is the legendary Maison du Chocolat, I don’t each much chocolate, but when I find exquisite temptations like these I can’t resist.

Two other highlights not to be missed on a weekend in Paris are Berthillon on Rue Saint-Louis-en-l’Ile and Angelina on Rue de Rivoli. Long established Berthillon still does the best ice-cream in Paris, they offer about 30 flavours a week which they change with the seasons. You can enjoy your favourite flavour in a little wafer basket or a cone, but try to make time to sit in the ice-cream parlour with its dark paneled walls and mirrors, and green mottled marble tables. My ice came piled high in a scalloped silver coupe, raspberry sorbet, vanilla bean ice-cream, fresh raspberries, fresh raspberry sauce and chopped pistachios. The bells of Notre Dame chimed in the background – bliss. My final treat was a hot chocolate at Angelina’s. At this celebrated Salon de Thé on Rue de Rivoli, they melt real chocolate to make the most sublime hot chocolate I have ever tasted. A few blissful minutes on the lips and surely a month on the hips, but worth every mouthful. You might also want to taste their Mont Blanc – a chestnut purée and meringue confection for which they are justly famous. Time to head for the airport – amazing how much one can fit into a weekend in Paris. Zagat’s restaurant guide is a must, to discover the best places for food-lovers to explore.

Closerie des Lilas, 171 Blvd du Montparnasse, 6e Tel 01 40 51 3450
Café les Deux Magots, 6 Place St Germain des Prés, 6e 01 45 48 55 25
Café de Flore, 172 Blvd. St Germain, 6e. Tel. 01 45 48 55 26
Brasserie Lipp, 151 Blvd. St Germain, 6e, Tel 01 45 48 5391

Lemon Tart with Candied Julienne of Lemon Peel – Tarte au Citron

Serves 8

Shortcrust Pastry (enough for two tarts)
11 ozs (310g) plain flour
6 ozs (170g) butter
2 ozs (55g) castor sugar
1 oz (30g) icing sugar
1 free range egg

Filling
3 eggs and 1 egg yolk
zest of 2 lemons (washed well)
juice of 3 lemons (200ml/7fl oz) and juice of 1 orange (150mls/¼ pint)
3 pint (150ml) generous ½ cup double cream
52 ozs (155g) sugar
Candied Julienne of Lemon Peel
2 lemons 
stock syrup made with 6 ozs (170g) sugar and 6 fl ozs (175ml) water, cooked together for 2 minutes.

1 x 8 inch (20.5cm) tin

First, make the pastry. This pastry can be made by various methods. Number 1 is our preferred method.

Make in a food processor. Stop as soon as the pastry starts to come together. Flatten, wrap and chill overnight if possible. 
or
Make by pâté brisée method. Flatten, wrap and chill overnight if possible. 
or
Make by the rubbing-in method. Flatten, wrap and chill for several hours if possible. 
If the pastry is needed urgently, divide into 2-3 equal parts. Flatten and chill for minimum 30 minutes, better still an hour.

Preheat the oven to 1801C/3501F regulo 4. 

Line the 8 inch (20.5cm) tin with pastry and bake it blind for 20-25 minutes until it is golden and fully cooked. Remove the beans, paint the base with a little egg white and replace in the oven for 2-3 minutes. When it is cooked, let it cool while the filling is prepared. Lower the oven temperatures to 160C/325F/regulo 3.

Grate the zest finely, (careful not to get any pith).

Whisk all the ingredients for the tart filling together - the eggs, orange and lemon juice, lemon zest, cream and sugar. When the mixture is nice and frothy, pour most of it into the tart shell. The mixture needs to come right to the top, but to avoid spilling it, put the partly filled tart into the oven (with the temperature now reduced) and finish filling it with a spoon.

Bake the tart until the filling has become firm. This should take about 35 minutes. Check by giving the tin a little shake. Take the tart out of the tin when it is lukewarm and leave it on a 

wire rack to cool. Decorate it crystallized lemon rind and tiny mint or lemon balm leaves. Best eaten on day it is made.

Candied Julienne of Lemon Peel

Peel 2 lemons very thinly with a swivel top peeler, be careful not to include the white pith, cut the strips into a fine julienne. Put in a saucepan with 2 cups of cold water and simmer for 5 minutes. Remove from the pot, refresh in cold water and repeat the process again. Put the julienne in a saucepan with the syrup and cook gently until the lemon julienne looks translucent or opaque. Remove with a slotted spoon and allow to cool on bakewell paper or a cake rack. When cold sprinkle with castor sugar.*

* Can be stored in a jar or airtight tin for weeks or sometimes months.

Tarte Tatin

The ultimate french apple tart. The Tatin sisters ran a restaurant at Lamotte-Beuvron in Sologne at the beginning of the century. They created this tart, some say accidentally, but however it came about it is a triumph - soft, buttery caramelised apples (or indeed you can also use pears) with crusty golden pastry underneath. It is unquestionably my favourite French tart! One can buy a special copper tatin especially for this tart.

Serves 6-8

1.24kg (2¾lb) approx. Golden Delicious, Cox’s Orange Pippin or Bramley Seedling cooking apples
170g (6oz) puff pastry or rich sweet shortcrust pastry 
110g (4oz)) unsalted butter
225g (8oz) castor sugar

a heavy 20.5cm (8inch) tatin mould or copper or stainless steel sautepan with low sides

Preheat the oven to 220ºC/425ºF/regulo 7 for puff pastry. For shortcrust -180ºC/350ºF/regulo 4.

First, roll out the pastry into a round slightly larger than the saucepan. Prick it all over with a fork and chill until needed.

Peel, halve and core the apples. Melt the butter in the saucepan, add the sugar and cook over a medium heat until it turns golden – fudge colour. Put the apple halves in upright, packing them in very tightly side by side. Replace the pan on a low heat and cook until the sugar and juice are a dark caramel colour. Hold your nerve otherwise it will be too pale. Put into a hot oven for approx. 15 minutes.

Cover the apples with the pastry and tuck in the edges. Put the saucepan into the fully preheated oven until the pastry is cooked and the apples are soft-25-30 minutes approx. For puff pastry reduce the temperature to 200C/400F/gas 6 after 10 minutes.

Take out of the oven and rest for 5-10 minutes or longer if you like. Put a plate over the top of the saucepan and flip the tart on to a serving plate. (Watch out - this is a rather tricky operation because the hot caramel and juice can ooze out). Reshape the tart if necessary and serve warm with softly whipped cream.

French Onion Soup with Gruyere Toasts

French onion soup is probably the best known and loved of all French soups. It was a favourite for breakfast in the cafes beside the old markets at Les Halles in Paris and is still a favourite on bistro menus at Rungis market. In France this soup is served in special white porcelain tureens.

Serve with a glass of gutsy French vin de table.
Serves 6

1.35kg (3 lb) onions
55g (2oz) butter
1.7Litre (3 pints) good homemade beef or chicken stock or vegetable stock
salt and freshly ground pepper
To Finish
6 slices of baguette (French bread), 2 inch (1cm) thick toasted
85g (3oz) grated Gruyére cheese

Peel the onions and slice thinly. Melt the butter in a saucepan. Add the onion and cook on a low heat for about 40-60 minutes with the lid off, stirring frequently - the onions should be dark and well caramelised but not burnt.

Add the stock, season with salt and freshly ground pepper, bring to the boil and cook for a further 10 minutes. Ladle into deep soup bowls, put a piece of toasted baguette covered with grated cheese on top of each one. Pop under the grill until the cheese melts and turns golden. Serve immediately but beware - it will be very hot. Bon appetit!

Useful tip: Hold your nerve: - The onions must be very well caramelized otherwise the soup will be too weak and sweet. 

Choucroute, Sausages and Bacon

Serves 8-10

3lb (1.3kg) sauerkraut
3 tablesp pork, lard, duck, goose or chicken fat, alternatively use olive oil
2 large onions, coarsely chopped
16 fl.oz (450ml) German Riesling white wine
8fl.oz (250ml) chicken stock or water
2lb (900g) thick pork shoulder chops
Freshly ground black pepper
3 cloves
8 juniper berries
2 bay leaves
2 sprigs of thyme
4 cloves garlic
6 knackwurst
6 fresh German frankfurters
1lb (450g) smoked pork sausage, eg Polish Kielbasa
2 lb (900g) potatoes
1lb (450g) streaky bacon, cut into large chunks

Preheat the oven to 350F (175C/gas 5)

Rinse the sauerkraut in a colander under cold running water. If it is very acidic or very salty, you many need to repeat several times. Drain well.

Melt the fat in a large casserole over a low heat, add the chopped onions. Saute until the onions are wilted, then add the wine and chicken stock or water. Add the pork chops. Cover with the sauerkraut. Add the pepper, cloves, juniper berries, bay leaves, and garlic. Cover and cook in the oven for 1-1½ hours. 

Meanwhile, cook the streaky bacon in lots of water until tender – 30 minutes approx.

Just before the sauerkraut is cooked, cook each variety of sausage in a separate saucepan in gently simmering water for 15-20 minutes. Be careful not to allow the water to boil or the sausages will burst. Drain all the sausages, slice the Polish kielbasa, and keep everything warm until serving time.

Meanwhile, boil or steam the potatoes. Peel and keep warm. 

To serve, drain the sauerkraut (removing the herbs and spices) and mound it in the centre of a large, heated serving platter. Surround the sauerkraut with the pork chops, the sausages, including the sliced kielbasa, the potatoes and the bacon. Serve with Dijon and grainy mustard and plenty of chilled white Riesling wine.

Lamajun with Sesame and Thyme Leaves

I first tasted this version of Lebanese flat bread Lamajun in the market on Rue Pierre de Serbie, close to the Museum d’Arte Moderne in Paris.

They are cooked on a concave stove called a sag which looked like an upturned wok. The beaming cook who turned these Lamajun and other toppings out like hot cakes, had a little roller which he dipped in the sesame and thyme mixture and used to cover the base evenly at the speed of light. 

Dough
10oz (275g) plain flour
8fl oz (225ml) natural yoghurt

Topping 
5 fl oz (150 ml) olive oil
2 tablespoons dried thyme
4 tablespoons sesame seeds
½ - 1 teaspoon sea salt

Hummus – optional
Tabouleh – optional

Heavy iron frying pan.
Mix all the ingredients for the topping in a bowl. 
Mix the flour with the yoghurt to form a soft dough. Heat the frying pan and preheat the grill.

Spread the topping evenly over the dough, a brush works well. Slap onto the hot pan. Cook for 3-4 minutes and flash under the grill. 
Serve alone or with Hummus and Tabbouleh.

Foolproof Food

Sablés

Makes 25

6 ozs (170g) white flour 
4 ozs (110g) unsalted butter
2 ozs (55g) castor sugar

Put the flour and sugar into a bowl, rub in the butter as for shortcrust pastry. Gather the mixture together and knead lightly. Roll out to ¼ inch (7mm) thick. Cut into rounds with a 2½ inch (6cm) cutter or into heart shapes. Bake in a moderate oven 180C/350F/regulo 4 to pale brown, 8-15 minutes, depending on the thickness of the biscuits. Remove and cool on a rack.
Serve with fruit fools, compotes and ice creams.

Note: Watch these biscuits really carefully in the oven. Because of the high sugar content they burn easily. They should be a pale golden colour - darker will be more bitter.

Hot Tips

The Skelligs Chocolate Company
The most westerly chocolate factory in Europe, have just launched a new easy to use on line shopping facility. Now from the comfort of their own home, customers can purchase from a range of Skelligs best-selling chocolate products, truffles, fudges and a recently introduced range of sugar free chocolates. All of Skelligs Chocolates are available in a range of packaging options including unique hand painted boxes and a range of chocolate hampers. Tel 066-9479119 info@skelligschocolate.com  www.skelligschocolate.com 

Fundraiser for HIV Clinic for children in Kampala in Africa
On Friday 16th June at John M Keatings, (formerly the church opposite the AXA Office) Mary St, Dublin at 8pm , entry €10 – West African Percussion Band, auction of terrific prizes and a DJ to finish off the night – further details from sarahtaaffe@eircom.net  

Taste of Dublin 2006
Dublin’s first outdoor gourmet food and drink festival will take place in the historic gardens of Dublin Castle, from Thursday 22nd June to Sunday June 25th 2006. 

Taste of Dublin, sponsored by Oceanico Developments, will present 15 of Dublin’s finest restaurants, each cooking up their signature dishes. In addition, there will be tutored wine and spirit tastings, artisan food stalls, a large Chefs’ Demonstration Theatre, themed bars and lots more entertainment for foodies and wine lovers alike.

Participating restaurants in Taste of Dublin 2006 include Bang Café, Chapter One, Diep Le Shaker, Jaipur, King Sitric, La Stampa, L’Ecrivain, Peploes Wine Bistro, Roly’s Bistro, Silk Road Café, The Cellar Restaurant at The Merrion, Town Bar & Grill, Unicorn, Yo’Thai & Chai-Yo.

Feeling the heat in the Chef’s Theatre will be a constellation of star names including Anthony Worrall Thompson, Derry Clarke, Darina Allen, Kevin Dundon, Rachel Allen, Richard Corrigan and Ross Lewis. www.tasteofdublin06.ie 

Slurpy noodles are one of the world’s most comforting foods -the fast food of the 21st century, high in complex carbohydrates and low in fat.

Noodles are central to Asian cooking. They star in a myriad of dishes in Japan, Korea, China, Vietnam, Thailand, Malaysia and Indonesia. They add substance to soups, salads, meat dishes and make a pleasing accompaniment to curry. They can be stir-fried, or cooked in an aromatic broth. Some frizzle up deliciously when they are deep-fried. Their flexibility and sheer convenience make them a thoroughly modern food.

Noodles come in a mind-boggling array of sizes, shapes and colours.

1. Rice noodles – sometimes called rice stick noodles or vermicelli noodles. They only need to be soaked in boiling water for a few minutes, drained, and then they are ready to be used in soups, salads, stir-fries, spring rolls… Rice noodles have the added bonus of being gluten and wheat free.

2. Buckwheat noodles – are an unappetizing shade of browny grey, but don’t be put off – they’ve got a delicious nutty flavour. In Korea they are called naengmyon. In Japan they are called soba and are often served cold, dipped in a light sauce – also gluten and wheat free. 

3. Bean thread noodles – sometimes referred to as cellophane noodles, great in salads and laksa.

4. Wheat noodles – purported to be the oldest form of Chinese noodle, have a firm silky bite. The thin version called somen noodles are great in soups, while the thicker fat white unctuous, slippery Udon noodles are better in stir-fries or in dishes with a rich sauce.

5. Egg noodles – the word immediately conjures up images of the archetypal Chinese noodle – they come both thick and thin.

Ramen, also egg noodles have a defined place in Japanese cooking.

All the above come dried, so they are a brilliant option for the kitchen store cupboard, and once you get on the noodle groove, there are millions of recipes that you can whip up in a matter of minutes.

If you are already nutty about noodles, or need further inspiration., a terrific book has just been published by Kyle Cathie - Wagamama – ways with noodles. 

Author Hugo Arnold’s enthusiasm rings through every page of the book. He is a self confessed noodle head, so when he was asked to write the Wagamama Cookbook the opportunity to indulge in even more noodle dishes was too great a temptation to ignore.

The name Wagamama has become synonomous with noodles, particularly Ramen, ever since they opened the first Wagamama in London in 1992 . Wagamama which opened in Cork in March 2005, was the 45th world wide, and by the end of last year there were 50 and still going strong.

The food is all about speedy, nutritious dishes which satisfy deliciously but don’t make on feel over full.

Here are some recipes from Wagamama – Ways with noodles by Hugo Arnold, published by Kyle Cathie.  Buy from Amazon

Stir-fried Chicken and Mushrooms with Somen Noodles

Serves 2

100 g (4 oz) somen noodles
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
2 chicken breasts, cut into bite sized slices
75 g (3 oz) button mushrooms, thinly sliced
75 g (3 oz) shiitake mushrooms, thinly sliced
3 cm (1¼ in) piece of ginger root, peeled and grated
2 garlic cloves, peeled and mashed
2 teaspoons soy sauce
1 tablespoon sake
1 tablespoon mirin – see note
1 lime, cut into wedges
Handful of coriander leaves

Cook the noodles according to the instructions on the packet, drain and refresh under cold water. 

Heat the oil in a hot wok over a medium heat and stir-fry the chicken, mushrooms, ginger and garlic for 2-3 minutes. Add the soy sauce, sake, mirin and 2 tablespoons water, continue to stir fry for 2 minutes or until the chicken is cooked.
Stir in the noodles to heat through and serve with a wedge of lime and a scattering of coriander leaves.

Note: Sake, which is combined with sugar so it has a sweet, tangy flavour. It is used in small quantities to give a smooth roundness to dishes.

Hot and Sour Pork and Prawns with Ramen Noodles

Serves 2

125 g (5 oz) ramen noodles
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
125 g (5 oz) minced pork
6 button mushrooms, sliced
Bunch of spring onions, cut into 6 cm (2½ in) lengths
100 g (4 oz) raw, peeled prawns
2 red chillies, deseeded and finely-sliced
2 garlic cloves, peeled and minced with a little salt
2 teaspoons muscovado sugar
1 tablespoon fish sauce (nam pla)
1 tablespoon rice vinegar
2 handfuls of beansprouts
2 tablespoons roughly chopped coriander leaves
1 lime, halved

Cook the noodles according to the instructions on the packet, drain and refresh under cold water. 
Heat the oil in a hot wok and stir fry the pork for 3 minutes, then add the mushrooms, spring onions, prawns, chillies, garlic, sugar, fish sauce and rice vinegar. Stir-fry for a further 3 minutes.

Add the noodles and toss to ensure that everything is well combined. 
Divide between 2 bowls and serve topped with the beansprouts and coriander and a lime half to squeeze over.

Wide Noodle Hot-Pot with Seven Vegetables

Serves 2

2 small pak choi, quartered lengthways
75 g (3 oz) broccoli, cut into small florets
50 g (2 oz) wide rice noodles
150 ml (5 fl oz) chicken stock 
2 tablespoons mirin
3 tablespoons soy sauce
2 teaspoons sugar
1 garlic clove, peeled and mashed
2 cm (¾ in) piece of ginger root, peeled and grated
1 red chilli, chopped
Handful of finely shredded Chinese cabbage
Handful of mangetout
2 carrots, thinly sliced
1 small courgette, thinly sliced
4 shiitake mushrooms, thinly sliced
Handful of coriander leaves

Blanch the pak choi and broccoli in a pan of boiling water until just tender. Drain and refresh under cold water.
Cook the noodles according to the instructions on the packet, drain and refresh under cold water.

Put the stock, mirin, soy sauce, garlic, ginger and chilli in a heavy, lidded saucepan, cover and bring to the boil. Add the Chinese cabbage, mangetout, carrots, courgette and mushrooms and cook for 4 minutes, or until softened but still crunchy. Add the blanched vegetables and noodles, check the seasoning and simmer over a gentle heat for 2 minutes. Allow to rest for 2 minutes, stir in the coriander and serve.

Soba Noodle Salad

Serves 2

for the dressing
1 teaspoon honey
1 teaspoon fish sauce (nam pla)
1 teaspoon rice vinegar
1 teaspoon mirin

100 g (4 oz) soba noodles
Zest and juice of 1 lime
8 radishes, thinly sliced
½ cucumber, deseeded and finely sliced
1 carrot, julienned
bunch of mint, leaves roughly chopped
2 handfuls of spinach, roughly chopped
salt and white pepper

Cook the noodles according to the instructions on the packet, drain and refresh under cold water.
Mix together the dressing ingredients in a small pan, bring to the boil and set aside to cool. Stir in the lime zest and juice.
Combine the noodles with the radishes, cucumber, carrot, mint and spinach, add the cooled dressing and toss to ensure that everything is coated. Check the seasoning and serve.

Seafood Salad with Wilted Greens

Serves 2

for the dressing
1 tablespoon toasted sesame oil
2 tablespoons soy sauce
½ teaspoon sugar
2 tablespoons rice vinegar
2 spring onions, finely sliced
3 cm (1¼ in) piece of ginger root, peeled and grated
2 garlic cloves, peeled and minced with a little salt

100g (4 oz) cellophane noodles
1 head little gem lettuce, trimmed and shredded
small handful of mangetout, thinly sliced lengthways
small handful of beansprouts
¼ cucumber, deseeded and julienned
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
4 scallops, trimmed (if large, slice horizontally)
4 raw, peeled prawns
8 clams, well rinsed and drained
handful of spinach
bunch of coriander, leaves picked

Soak the noodles according to the instructions on the packet, drain and refresh under cold water. Roughly chop and put into a large bowl.

Combine the dressing ingredients and stir to dissolve the sugar. Add to the bowl with the lettuce, mangetout, beansprouts and cucumber, toss well and check the seasoning. Heat the oil in a hot wok over a medium heat and stir fry the scallops, prawns and clams for 2 minutes until cooked and the clams are open.
Add the spinach, wilt briefly over the heat and add everything to the salad bowl. Toss well, adding in the coriander as you go, and serve.

Marinated Duck Salad

Serves 2

for the marinade
1 teaspoon rice vinegar
1 teaspoon honey
1 teaspoon soy sauce

1 duck breast, sliced on the diagonal
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
200 g (8 oz) somen noodles
bunch of spring onions, sliced lengthways
½ cucumber, deseeded and julienned
1 carrot, julienned
2 tablespoons hoisin sauce
salt and white pepper
2 teaspoons sesame seeds, briefly toasted in a hot, dry frying pan

Combine the marinade ingredients in a small pan with 100 ml (3½ fl oz) cold water, bring to the boil and remove from the heat as soon as the honey has melted. Allow to cool completely and pour over the duck slices. Toss gently and set aside for 1 hour; overnight in the fridge is even better.

Pour the marinade off the duck and discard. Heat the oil in a hot wok and stir fry the duck for 3-4 minutes until cooked. Set aside.
Cook the noodles according to the instructions on the packet, drain and refresh under cold water.

Combine the noodles with the spring onions, cucumber, carrot and hoisin sauce in a large bowl. Add the duck and toss everything gently so it is well mixed and coated. Season to taste with salt and pepper. 
Serve topped with the sesame seeds.

Stir-fried prawns and pork with crispy noodles

Serves 2

100g (3½ oz) raw, peeled tiger prawns
50g (2oz) rice vermicelli
Vegetable oil
2 tablesp. finely chopped shallots
3 garlic cloves, peeled and finely sliced
Pinch of chilli flakes (or to taste)
200g (7oz) minced pork
Large handful of beansprouts
½ teasp light brown sugar
1 tablesp. Fish sauce (nam pla)
1 tablesp. mirin 
Small handful of coriander leaves
Juice of 1 lime

Butterfly the prawns by cutting each one lengthways almost right the way through, and open out the two halves.

Put the vermicelli into a small bag and break into short lengths. Heat 3cm (1¼ in) oil in a hot wok and stir fry the shallots for 1 minute. Add the garlic, chilli flakes and pork and continue stir frying for a further 2 minutes or until the pork is almost cooked. Add the prawns, beansprouts, sugar , fish sauce and mirin and continue stir frying for a further 2-3 minutes or until the prawns are cooked. Toss the coriander through.

Serve the pork and prawn mixture on top of the noodles with the lime juice squeezed over.

Foolproof Food

Sweet Chilli Dipping Sauce

Makes about 200 ml

250 g (10 oz) red chillies, trimmed
3 garlic cloves, peeled and roughly chopped
100 g (4 oz) light brown sugar
2 teaspoons white wine vinegar

Combine everything in a small pan with 100 ml (3½ fl oz) water, bring to the boil and simmer over a moderate heat until soft, about 5 minutes. Blitz in a blender and season with a scant teaspoon of salt. Return to the pan; simmer for a further 10 minutes, taking care not to let it catch on the bottom. Allow cool and refrigerate.

Many bought sweet chilli sauces deliver too much sweetness and not a lot of character in the chilli, two things which you maintain control over when you make this all-purpose sauce at home. It will last indefinitely in the fridge and is, according to some, rather good on a bacon sandwich in place of ketchup.

Hot Tips

For a selection of noodles try Mr Bell’s stall in the English Market in Cork, the Asia Market at 18 Drury St. and the Oriental Emporium at 25 South Great Georges Street, both in Dublin 2.

East Cork Slow Food present Paul Waddington, author of ‘21st Century Smallholder at Ballymaloe Cookery School, Shanagarry, Co Cork on Wednesday 24th May at 7pm - €15 members and €20 non-members – booking essential. Tel 021-4646785 or email info@cookingisfun.ie  

‘What food is practical to both grow and raise at home, whether you have just a tiny balcony or a garden? The focus of this talk is on practicality: how much time does it take, is it worth the bother, how much will it cost me? There will be an emphasis on the gourmet and nutritional reasons for growing your own food.’

Another opportunity to hear Paul Waddington at the Cork City Slow Food Workshop on Tuesday 23rd May at 7pm at the Imperial Hotel –

‘Growing and Raising Food with Paul Waddington and Caroline Robinson’ - €8 members and €10 non-members, includes glass of wine. Optional supper at Jacques Restaurant in Cork at 9pm – set dinner and glass of wine - €36 members and €41 non-members. Tel Clodagh McKenna on 087-7971776 email:clodaghmckenna@eircom.net 

The Organic Centre, Rosinver, Co Letrim
Workshop on Cooking with Seaweeds by Dr. Prannie Rhatigan 27th May.
Tel. 071-9854338 Organicentre@eircom.net  www.theorganiccentre.ie  

Glebe House, Baltimore, Co Cork
Plant sale today Saturday 20th May from midday – Café open weekends till June and then Wednesday to Sunday inclusive till September. Driving into Baltimore there is a ‘Baltimore’ sign on the left – entrance is directly opposite on the right.

Wise Woman Weekend 26-28 May 2006 at Dromahair, Co Leitrim
A weekend of learning, discovery, celebration and fun. www.wisewomanireland.com  info@wisewomanireland.com  Tel 071-913 4913 or 086-8286303

Slurpy noodles are one of the world’s most comforting foods -the fast food of the 21st century, high in complex carbohydrates and low in fat.

Noodles are central to Asian cooking. They star in a myriad of dishes in Japan, Korea, China, Vietnam, Thailand, Malaysia and Indonesia. They add substance to soups, salads, meat dishes and make a pleasing accompaniment to curry. They can be stir-fried, or cooked in an aromatic broth. Some frizzle up deliciously when they are deep-fried. Their flexibility and sheer convenience make them a thoroughly modern food.

Noodles come in a mind-boggling array of sizes, shapes and colours.

1. Rice noodles – sometimes called rice stick noodles or vermicelli noodles. They only need to be soaked in boiling water for a few minutes, drained, and then they are ready to be used in soups, salads, stir-fries, spring rolls… Rice noodles have the added bonus of being gluten and wheat free.

2. Buckwheat noodles – are an unappetizing shade of browny grey, but don’t be put off – they’ve got a delicious nutty flavour. In Korea they are called naengmyon. In Japan they are called soba and are often served cold, dipped in a light sauce – also gluten and wheat free. 

3. Bean thread noodles – sometimes referred to as cellophane noodles, great in salads and laksa.

4. Wheat noodles – purported to be the oldest form of Chinese noodle, have a firm silky bite. The thin version called somen noodles are great in soups, while the thicker fat white unctuous, slippery Udon noodles are better in stir-fries or in dishes with a rich sauce.

5. Egg noodles – the word immediately conjures up images of the archetypal Chinese noodle – they come both thick and thin.

Ramen, also egg noodles have a defined place in Japanese cooking.

All the above come dried, so they are a brilliant option for the kitchen store cupboard, and once you get on the noodle groove, there are millions of recipes that you can whip up in a matter of minutes.

If you are already nutty about noodles, or need further inspiration., a terrific book has just been published by Kyle Cathie - Wagamama – ways with noodles. 

Author Hugo Arnold’s enthusiasm rings through every page of the book. He is a self confessed noodle head, so when he was asked to write the Wagamama Cookbook the opportunity to indulge in even more noodle dishes was too great a temptation to ignore.

The name Wagamama has become synonomous with noodles, particularly Ramen, ever since they opened the first Wagamama in London in 1992 . Wagamama which opened in Cork in March 2005, was the 45th world wide, and by the end of last year there were 50 and still going strong.

The food is all about speedy, nutritious dishes which satisfy deliciously but don’t make on feel over full.

Here are some recipes from Wagamama – Ways with noodles by Hugo Arnold, published by Kyle Cathie.  Buy from Amazon

Stir-fried Chicken and Mushrooms with Somen Noodles

Serves 2

100 g (4 oz) somen noodles
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
2 chicken breasts, cut into bite sized slices
75 g (3 oz) button mushrooms, thinly sliced
75 g (3 oz) shiitake mushrooms, thinly sliced
3 cm (1¼ in) piece of ginger root, peeled and grated
2 garlic cloves, peeled and mashed
2 teaspoons soy sauce
1 tablespoon sake
1 tablespoon mirin – see note
1 lime, cut into wedges
Handful of coriander leaves

Cook the noodles according to the instructions on the packet, drain and refresh under cold water. 

Heat the oil in a hot wok over a medium heat and stir-fry the chicken, mushrooms, ginger and garlic for 2-3 minutes. Add the soy sauce, sake, mirin and 2 tablespoons water, continue to stir fry for 2 minutes or until the chicken is cooked.
Stir in the noodles to heat through and serve with a wedge of lime and a scattering of coriander leaves.

Note: Sake, which is combined with sugar so it has a sweet, tangy flavour. It is used in small quantities to give a smooth roundness to dishes.

Hot and Sour Pork and Prawns with Ramen Noodles

Serves 2

125 g (5 oz) ramen noodles
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
125 g (5 oz) minced pork
6 button mushrooms, sliced
Bunch of spring onions, cut into 6 cm (2½ in) lengths
100 g (4 oz) raw, peeled prawns
2 red chillies, deseeded and finely-sliced
2 garlic cloves, peeled and minced with a little salt
2 teaspoons muscovado sugar
1 tablespoon fish sauce (nam pla)
1 tablespoon rice vinegar
2 handfuls of beansprouts
2 tablespoons roughly chopped coriander leaves
1 lime, halved

Cook the noodles according to the instructions on the packet, drain and refresh under cold water. 
Heat the oil in a hot wok and stir fry the pork for 3 minutes, then add the mushrooms, spring onions, prawns, chillies, garlic, sugar, fish sauce and rice vinegar. Stir-fry for a further 3 minutes.

Add the noodles and toss to ensure that everything is well combined. 
Divide between 2 bowls and serve topped with the beansprouts and coriander and a lime half to squeeze over.

Wide Noodle Hot-Pot with Seven Vegetables

Serves 2

2 small pak choi, quartered lengthways
75 g (3 oz) broccoli, cut into small florets
50 g (2 oz) wide rice noodles
150 ml (5 fl oz) chicken stock 
2 tablespoons mirin
3 tablespoons soy sauce
2 teaspoons sugar
1 garlic clove, peeled and mashed
2 cm (¾ in) piece of ginger root, peeled and grated
1 red chilli, chopped
Handful of finely shredded Chinese cabbage
Handful of mangetout
2 carrots, thinly sliced
1 small courgette, thinly sliced
4 shiitake mushrooms, thinly sliced
Handful of coriander leaves

Blanch the pak choi and broccoli in a pan of boiling water until just tender. Drain and refresh under cold water.
Cook the noodles according to the instructions on the packet, drain and refresh under cold water.

Put the stock, mirin, soy sauce, garlic, ginger and chilli in a heavy, lidded saucepan, cover and bring to the boil. Add the Chinese cabbage, mangetout, carrots, courgette and mushrooms and cook for 4 minutes, or until softened but still crunchy. Add the blanched vegetables and noodles, check the seasoning and simmer over a gentle heat for 2 minutes. Allow to rest for 2 minutes, stir in the coriander and serve.

Soba Noodle Salad

Serves 2

for the dressing
1 teaspoon honey
1 teaspoon fish sauce (nam pla)
1 teaspoon rice vinegar
1 teaspoon mirin

100 g (4 oz) soba noodles
Zest and juice of 1 lime
8 radishes, thinly sliced
½ cucumber, deseeded and finely sliced
1 carrot, julienned
bunch of mint, leaves roughly chopped
2 handfuls of spinach, roughly chopped
salt and white pepper

Cook the noodles according to the instructions on the packet, drain and refresh under cold water.
Mix together the dressing ingredients in a small pan, bring to the boil and set aside to cool. Stir in the lime zest and juice.
Combine the noodles with the radishes, cucumber, carrot, mint and spinach, add the cooled dressing and toss to ensure that everything is coated. Check the seasoning and serve.

Seafood Salad with Wilted Greens

Serves 2

for the dressing
1 tablespoon toasted sesame oil
2 tablespoons soy sauce
½ teaspoon sugar
2 tablespoons rice vinegar
2 spring onions, finely sliced
3 cm (1¼ in) piece of ginger root, peeled and grated
2 garlic cloves, peeled and minced with a little salt

100g (4 oz) cellophane noodles
1 head little gem lettuce, trimmed and shredded
small handful of mangetout, thinly sliced lengthways
small handful of beansprouts
¼ cucumber, deseeded and julienned
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
4 scallops, trimmed (if large, slice horizontally)
4 raw, peeled prawns
8 clams, well rinsed and drained
handful of spinach
bunch of coriander, leaves picked

Soak the noodles according to the instructions on the packet, drain and refresh under cold water. Roughly chop and put into a large bowl.

Combine the dressing ingredients and stir to dissolve the sugar. Add to the bowl with the lettuce, mangetout, beansprouts and cucumber, toss well and check the seasoning. Heat the oil in a hot wok over a medium heat and stir fry the scallops, prawns and clams for 2 minutes until cooked and the clams are open.
Add the spinach, wilt briefly over the heat and add everything to the salad bowl. Toss well, adding in the coriander as you go, and serve.

Marinated Duck Salad

Serves 2

for the marinade
1 teaspoon rice vinegar
1 teaspoon honey
1 teaspoon soy sauce

1 duck breast, sliced on the diagonal
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
200 g (8 oz) somen noodles
bunch of spring onions, sliced lengthways
½ cucumber, deseeded and julienned
1 carrot, julienned
2 tablespoons hoisin sauce
salt and white pepper
2 teaspoons sesame seeds, briefly toasted in a hot, dry frying pan

Combine the marinade ingredients in a small pan with 100 ml (3½ fl oz) cold water, bring to the boil and remove from the heat as soon as the honey has melted. Allow to cool completely and pour over the duck slices. Toss gently and set aside for 1 hour; overnight in the fridge is even better.

Pour the marinade off the duck and discard. Heat the oil in a hot wok and stir fry the duck for 3-4 minutes until cooked. Set aside.
Cook the noodles according to the instructions on the packet, drain and refresh under cold water.

Combine the noodles with the spring onions, cucumber, carrot and hoisin sauce in a large bowl. Add the duck and toss everything gently so it is well mixed and coated. Season to taste with salt and pepper. 
Serve topped with the sesame seeds.

Stir-fried prawns and pork with crispy noodles

Serves 2

100g (3½ oz) raw, peeled tiger prawns
50g (2oz) rice vermicelli
Vegetable oil
2 tablesp. finely chopped shallots
3 garlic cloves, peeled and finely sliced
Pinch of chilli flakes (or to taste)
200g (7oz) minced pork
Large handful of beansprouts
½ teasp light brown sugar
1 tablesp. Fish sauce (nam pla)
1 tablesp. mirin 
Small handful of coriander leaves
Juice of 1 lime

Butterfly the prawns by cutting each one lengthways almost right the way through, and open out the two halves.

Put the vermicelli into a small bag and break into short lengths. Heat 3cm (1¼ in) oil in a hot wok and stir fry the shallots for 1 minute. Add the garlic, chilli flakes and pork and continue stir frying for a further 2 minutes or until the pork is almost cooked. Add the prawns, beansprouts, sugar , fish sauce and mirin and continue stir frying for a further 2-3 minutes or until the prawns are cooked. Toss the coriander through.

Serve the pork and prawn mixture on top of the noodles with the lime juice squeezed over.

Foolproof Food

Sweet Chilli Dipping Sauce

Makes about 200 ml

250 g (10 oz) red chillies, trimmed
3 garlic cloves, peeled and roughly chopped
100 g (4 oz) light brown sugar
2 teaspoons white wine vinegar

Combine everything in a small pan with 100 ml (3½ fl oz) water, bring to the boil and simmer over a moderate heat until soft, about 5 minutes. Blitz in a blender and season with a scant teaspoon of salt. Return to the pan; simmer for a further 10 minutes, taking care not to let it catch on the bottom. Allow cool and refrigerate.

Many bought sweet chilli sauces deliver too much sweetness and not a lot of character in the chilli, two things which you maintain control over when you make this all-purpose sauce at home. It will last indefinitely in the fridge and is, according to some, rather good on a bacon sandwich in place of ketchup.

Hot Tips

For a selection of noodles try Mr Bell’s stall in the English Market in Cork, the Asia Market at 18 Drury St. and the Oriental Emporium at 25 South Great Georges Street, both in Dublin 2.

East Cork Slow Food present Paul Waddington, author of ‘21st Century Smallholder at Ballymaloe Cookery School, Shanagarry, Co Cork on Wednesday 24th May at 7pm - €15 members and €20 non-members – booking essential. Tel 021-4646785 or email info@cookingisfun.ie  

‘What food is practical to both grow and raise at home, whether you have just a tiny balcony or a garden? The focus of this talk is on practicality: how much time does it take, is it worth the bother, how much will it cost me? There will be an emphasis on the gourmet and nutritional reasons for growing your own food.’

Another opportunity to hear Paul Waddington at the Cork City Slow Food Workshop on Tuesday 23rd May at 7pm at the Imperial Hotel –

‘Growing and Raising Food with Paul Waddington and Caroline Robinson’ - €8 members and €10 non-members, includes glass of wine. Optional supper at Jacques Restaurant in Cork at 9pm – set dinner and glass of wine - €36 members and €41 non-members. Tel Clodagh McKenna on 087-7971776 email:clodaghmckenna@eircom.net 

The Organic Centre, Rosinver, Co Letrim
Workshop on Cooking with Seaweeds by Dr. Prannie Rhatigan 27th May.
Tel. 071-9854338 Organicentre@eircom.net  www.theorganiccentre.ie  

Glebe House, Baltimore, Co Cork
Plant sale today Saturday 20th May from midday – Café open weekends till June and then Wednesday to Sunday inclusive till September. Driving into Baltimore there is a ‘Baltimore’ sign on the left – entrance is directly opposite on the right.

Wise Woman Weekend 26-28 May 2006 at Dromahair, Co Leitrim
A weekend of learning, discovery, celebration and fun. www.wisewomanireland.com  info@wisewomanireland.com  Tel 071-913 4913 or 086-8286303

Jeanette Orrey is a Dinner lady, albeit the most highly awarded dinner lady ever. She was the inspiration for Jamie Oliver’s ‘Jamie’s School Dinners’ and is now the school meals policy advisor for the Soil Association in the UK. Patrick Holden, director of the Soil Association says “Jeanette Orrey is an inspiration - she is living proof that one person who has a combination of energy and the right ideas at the right time can quite literally change the world.”.
The Soil Association has helped over 500 schools to improve school meals with their “Food for life” project which encompasses the whole school approach. www.soilassociation.org 
Jeanette was one of the dinner ladies at St Peter’s School in Nottinghamshire, not necessarily because she had a ‘true vocation’ but because she wanted 2 or 3 hours work a day while her children were at school. All the skills she needed were to be able to use a scissors “to cut open packets of orange pulp and bung them in the ovens. Then we scooped out the mush and flung it into plastic flight trays” Everything was frozen supposedly safer. Most of the food came in kid friendly shapes, turkey dinosaurs, cheese feet, potato portholes, pork hippos ……
She wasn’t particularly passionate about food but she was totally shocked by the atrocious quality of the food supplied by the catering company for her to ‘heat up’ for the children. Her budget was 43p to provide 2 meals a day.
The final straw came when she opened the oven to take out a tray of pork hippos and was so repulsed by the smell and the pool of grease that she went to the headmaster and refused to serve the food to the kids preferring to go out and buy from her own pocket. She then persuaded the school to do in-house catering and gradually persuaded the parents to support what she was doing. She jumped in her car and went to visit local farmers and farm shops and did deals with them to supply local food. She also involved the children in the menus. One of the challenges was to convince the children that chickens were not dinasaurs. The numbers coming for school dinners shot up from 120 to 180 immediately.
The school became calmer as the childrens’ concentration and behaviour visibly improved. Her budget now is 70p – still minimal but it’s truly amazing what can be achieved with imagination and determination.
In 2005 she went on to write book of her recipes. - ‘The Dinner Lady’ was an instant success and the sequel ‘Second Helpings’ is also a best seller. Parents and senior citizens are invited to the school to the lunch club.
Jeanette recently spoke at a Slow Food event at the Cookery School and to the Free Choice Consumer group in Cork. She painted a grim picture of the situation at present.
As more children eat fast food on a regular basis, fewer families sit down to a meal together and a growing number cannot use cutlery. In the US 50% of kids can’t use a knife and fork. In 1930, 35% of a family income was spent on food – it is now less than 10% and statistics are similar in Ireland. We are now a much wealthier nation – why are we spending less on food? Our food should be our medicine rather than causing medical problems as so much food does nowadays. In the UK 40% of girls are deficient in iron. Numerous children are deficient in calcium, folic acid and essential vitamins and minerals for healthy growth..
There is a huge increase in Type 2 diabetes. The list goes on and is scary. Our children are our future – it must be a priority to feed them with fresh naturally produced food that will give them strength energy, vitality and the ability to concentrate. We are in the midst of a terrifying crisis. Many children have no idea where food comes from, a growing number of children cannot recognize even basic vegetables

Jeanette Orrey “The Dinner Lady” change the way your children eat, for life, published by Bantam Press €26.00     Buy this Book from Amazon
Jeanette Orrey “Second Helpings from the Dinner Lady” published by Bantam Press €29.00

Reuben’s Deli Wraps

These wraps make a great nutritious lunch for kids and adults. Parents seem to love their fresh-from-the-deli taste, and kids feel very grown-up eating them. Serve with a baked potato for a meal, or on their own as a snack. This recipe is slightly adapted from one used by chef friend Brent Castle.

Serves 4 Serves 96

450g (1lb) chicken breast 5.4kg (12lbs)
225g (8oz) iceberg lettuce 2.7kg (6lbs)
225g (8oz) white cabbage 2.7kg (6lbs)
225g (8oz) carrots 2.7kg (6lbs)
115g (4oz) Cheddar cheese 1.3kg (3lbs)
115g (4oz) Mayonnaise 1.3kg (3lbs)
25g (1oz) tomato ketchup 300g (10½ozs)
4-8 tortilla wraps 96

Preheat the oven to 120°C/250°F/Gas ½ 

Cut the chicken meat into fine slices and stir-fry in a little oil in a heavy based pan until thoroughly cooked. (If making the larger quantity, bake the chicken strips in the oven preheated to 200°C/400°F/Gas 6 for 5-10 minutes until thoroughly cooked.)

Finely shred the lettuce and cabbage, and grate the carrots and cheese. Mix together the grated vegetables and cheese. Mix together the mayonnaise and tomato ketchup to make a sauce. 
Brush the tortilla wraps with a little oil and put in a low preheated oven for 2 minutes to warm through. 

Spoon a little of the sauce over the wraps, lay a slice or two of the chicken strips along the wrap and put a spoonful of the vegetable and cheese mix on top. Wrap up and serve.

Taken from Jeanette Orrey’s ‘The Dinner Lady’ © 2005

Jeanette Orrey’s Cheesy Yorkshire Puddings

When I make these, I always leave the batter mixture to rest for about 20 minutes. Then, just before I put the liquid into the tin, I give the batter one last whisk. The puddings always seem to rise better this way – try it! The home-kitchen quanity makes about 24 small puddings. Serve with some good local sausages, mashed potato and seasonal vegetables.

Serves 4 Serves 96

225g (8oz) plain flour 2.7kg (6lb)
a pinch ground pepper ½ teaspoon
2 eggs 24
600ml(1 pint) milk 6.8 litres (12 pints)
115g (4oz) Cheddar cheese 1.3kg (3lb)
olive oil

Sift the flour and pepper together into a bowl. Add the eggs and half the milk, and beat well until smooth. Beat in the remaining milk. Leave to rest for 20 minutes.

Meanwhile, preheat the oven well to 200°C/425°F/Gas 7. Grate the cheese.

Grease patty or Yorkshire pudding tins with olive oil and put into the hot oven for 5 minutes. Take out of the oven and divide the batter mix between the tins. Quickly add a little cheese to each Yorkshire, and bake in the very hot preheated oven until well risen and golden brown, around 10 minutes.

Taken from Jeanette Orrey’s ‘The Dinner Lady’ © 2005

Jeanette Orrey’s Real Chicken Nuggets

This is one of the simplest recipes in the book, and I’d much rather have the children eat these, made from local free-range or organic chicken, than any of the ingredients in the shop-bought chicken nugget. Get the children to help you make them – they love tossing the chicken in a bag of breadcrumbs. One adult portion will be roughly ten nuggets. Serve with some home-made tomato sauce or relish.

Serves 4 Serves 96

225g (8oz) bread (brown or white) 2.7kg (6lbs)
½ teaspoon garlic powder 3 tablespoons
¼ teaspoon paprika 2 tablespoons
1 egg 12
125ml (4floz) milk 1.5 litres (2½ pints)
900g (2 lb) diced chicken 10.8kg (24lbs) 

Preheat the oven to 200°C/400°F/Gas 6

Slice the bread, then toast it until light brown. Break up into pieces, crusts and all, and reduce to fine crumbs in the food processor. Add the garlic powder and paprika, and whiz again. Place the breadcrumbs in a large plastic freezer bag or a deep tray. 

Beat the egg in a large bowl with the milk, and add the chicken pieces, in batches if necessary. Transfer the chicken pieces to the bag or tray of breadcrumbs and toss to coat evenly. 

Arrange the crumbed chicken on a lightly greased baking sheet, and bake in the preheated oven for 10 minutes until browned and crisp and cooked through. 

Taken from Jeanette Orrey’s ‘The Dinner Lady’ © 2005

Jeanette Orrey’s Spicy Lamb Burgers

This recipe was devised at the new training kitchen in Essex, and I have thank Simon Owens, who work with there. Everyone who eats the burgers thinks they are great. Serve in a halved warm pitta bread or mini burger buns, with salad and a fresh mint and yoghurt dressing, or a salad of chopped carrots, tomato and cucumber. Add a squeeze of lemon to the lamb burgers once they are cooked.

Makes about 16

½ bunch of fresh coriander
175g (6oz) onions, peeled and finely chopped
1 small red chilli, deseeded and finely chopped
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 kg (2¼ lb) minced lamb
1 teaspoon ground cumin
½ teaspoon ground turmeric
½ teaspoon ground coriander
1 egg, beaten

Wash the fresh coriander thoroughly. Cook the onion and chilli in the olive oil in a frying pan until golden and soft. Leave to cool a little.

Combine all the ingredients in a large bowl and stir until thoroughly mixed. Divide the mixture into small burgers, shaping them as you wish; but it should make about 16. 

Place on a baking sheet and cook under a hot grill for 3-4 mins on each side, or for 2-4 mins on each side on the barbeque.

Taken from Jeanette Orrey’s ‘Second Helpings from The Dinner Lady’ © 2006

Jeanette Orrey’s Vegetable Lasagne

This is a good way to get children to eat vegetables. Make sure you dice them very small and to begin with just give them a small amount. They will be back for more, I can tell you. Serve with some fresh bread rolls or crusty bread.

Serve 4 Serves 96

225g (8oz) pre-cooked lasagne 2kg (4½lb)
1 tablespoon olive oil 175ml (6floz)
175g (6oz) onions 1.3kg (3lb)
175g (6oz) carrots 1.3kg (3lb)
3 sticks celery 2 heads
175g (6oz) courgettes 1.3kg (3lb)
½ teaspoon mixed dried herbs 55g (2oz)
1 x 400g can chopped tomatoes 2 x A10 (2.7kg) cans
115g (4oz) tomato puree 1.3kg (3lb)
300ml (10floz) water 3.4 litres (6pints)

Cheese Sauce
115g (4oz) Cheddar cheese 1.3kg (3lb)
25g (1oz) butter or margarine 350g (12oz)
25g (1oz) plain flour 350g (12oz)
600ml (1pint) milk 6.8 litres (12pints)
½ teaspoon wholegrain mustard 55g (2oz)


Preheat the oven the 200°C/400°F/Gas 6. Grease a deep lasagne dish, approximately 30cm (12in) square, with a little of the oil. 

Peel and dice the onions. Wash the carrots and celery and then dice. Trim the courgettes, and slice thinly. Grate the cheese for the sauce. 
Saute the onions, carrots, celery and courgettes in the remaining olive oil for a few minutes, then add the herbs, tomatoes, tomato puree and water. Bubble for 10-15 minutes. 

Make the cheese sauce by melting the butter or margarine then adding the flour. Cook until the texture and colour are sandy, then add the milk, stirring continuously until thickened and smooth. Add the cheese and mustard, and cook for a further 2-3 minutes.
Arrange half of the lasagne on the base of the dish. Pour half the vegetables over the lasagne, then top with another layer of lasagne. Top with the remaining vegetables, then pour over the cheese sauce. Bake in the preheated oven until golden brown and the lasagne is soft, about 30-35 minutes.

Taken from Jeanette Orrey’s ‘The Dinner Lady’ © 2005

Fool Proof Recipe

Jeanette Orrey’s Banana Loaf

This loaf is ideal for us at school because you just have to slice it to serve. Bananas are great for energy, as well, just what the children need after working hard all morning. You could also ice this (add a little vanilla essence to the icing), if you like.

Serves 4 Serves 96

2 ripe banana 24
175g (6oz) butter or margarine 1.3kg (3lb)
175g (6oz) caster sugar 1.3kg (3lb)
3 eggs 24
225g (8oz) self-raising flour 2.7kg (6lb)
½ teaspoon baking powder 2 tablespoons
½ teaspoon vanilla essence 2 tablespoons
½ teaspoon ground cinnamon 2 tablespoons
1 banana for decoration (optional ) 12

Preheat the oven to 180°C/350°F/Gas 4

Peel the bananas then crush with a fork. Beat together the butter or margarine and sugar, then add the eggs alternately with the flour and baking powder. Fold in the crushed banana, vanilla essence and cinnamon.

Pour the mixture into a greased 450g (1lb) tin, and top, if liked, with long thin slices of banana. Bake in the preheated oven for about 40 minutes. Cool slightly then turn on to a wire tray. When cool, slice.

Taken from Jeanette Orrey’s ‘The Dinner Lady’ © 2005

Hot tip
Lovers of Irish farmhouse cheese, ‘new age’ food producers and artisans will be delighted to hear that Giana Ferguson of Gubbeen Cheese, near Schull in west Cork, will hold a three-day cheese-making course on her farm from May 19-21.
For details, phone 028-28231 or email
gianaferguson@eircom.net  

Grow your own — pick up ready-to-plant salad and vegetable plants in Cork at Midleton farmers’ market on Saturdays, 9am-1pm, or Mahon Point farmers’ market, Thursdays, 9am-2pm. 

Clodagh McKenna’s Food Fair is at Cork’s Fota House every Sunday, 11am-5pm. It includes a farmers’ market with more than 20 stalls selling delicious pates, fresh breads, smoked fish, juices, chocolates and more. Eat some fantastic food while you’re there, from crepes and BBQ sausages to fresh smoothies and great coffee. 

For cookery demonstrations, check out www.fotahouse.com   for info on classes. There’s also live music, the wildlife park and gardens. For train connections (only 15 minutes from Cork, at which there are inter-city trains) to Fota, see www.irishrail.ie

The students clapped and cheered – there were even a few wolf whistles Aliona Mc Kinnon from Ukraine, Bright (Yu Long Bao) from LiaoNing Province, China and Agnes Stawosz from Krakow, Poland had just finished a command performance at the cookery school. We always have a very cosmopolitan group, the January course was no exception. There were 7 nationalities so there was a lively interchange of culture and ideas. Some students are total beginners when they come to the school others already cook well and are particularly knowledgeable about their own cuisine but unfamiliar with ours.
When one is away from home for a period of time, one craves comforting familiar food. Our foreign students seek out ingredients from their homeland and cook us lots of delicious dishes. The other students are curious to learn their secrets.
So I asked them to demonstrate some of their specialities to the other students and teachers.
Aliona was born in Uzbekistan and later moved to the Ukraine so she has memories of both cuisines. She demonstrated a variety of family dishes from both countries and a delicious carrot salad which she learned from her Korean aunt when she was a child. 
Bright comes from China, he too is passionate about food and delighted his fellow students with his friendly banter as he cooked.
Agnes who comes from Poland is also a natural cook and teacher and her food too was utterly delicious. 
Its such a joy to see the students demonstrate confidently. – “By your pupils you’ll be taught” – and I greatly enjoyed it too.

Korean Carrot Salad

Aliona McKinnon inherited this recipe from her Aunt Svetlana.

Serves 6

5 medium carrots
1 large onion
6 cloves of garlic
2 teaspoons ground coriander
4 tablespoons olive oil
3 tablespoons vinegar
1 tablespoon sugar
Salt and pepper to taste
3 teaspoons chopped coriander

Grate the carrots, slice the onion and chop the garlic and coriander finely. Fry the onion in olive oil in a large frying pan until golden. Add the carrot and stir. Put this mixture in a bowl with the remaining ingredients, mix everything together and add salt and pepper if required. Serve as a starter or as an accompaniment to the Plov.

Aliona’s Oliv’ie – Russian Salad

Serves 10-12

5 potatoes
2 carrots
100g (3½oz) bacon or any other meat
4 medium preserved cucumbers (salted and marinated)
400g (14oz) frozen peas or 1 x 400g tin of peas, boiled
4 eggs, hard boiled
250g (9oz) 1 small onion
250g mayonnaise, about 1 pint thinned to a coating consistency with water
Salt and freshly ground pepper

Boil the potatoes, carrots (unpeeled) until almost cooked. Boil the meat until cooked. Cut the potatoes, carrots and meat into ¼ inch (5mm) cubes. Chop the onion and egg finely and mix all the ingredients together in a bowl. Add enough mayonnaise to coat the ingredients. Taste and season well with salt and freshly ground black pepper.

Serve as a starter or an accompaniment.

Aliona’s Plov

In Uzbekistan everyone has their own recipe. This is Aliona’s way of making Plov.

Serves 8-10 

1kg shoulder of lamb, cut into 2cm cubes
4-6 tablespoons of olive oil
2 large onions, chopped
3 large carrots, cut into 3cm sticks
1 tsp cumin seeds
1 tsp coriander seeds
1 tsp paprika
½ tsp chilli powder
5 cloves of garlic, peeled and chopped
water
Lots of salt and pepper
1 level teaspoon turmeric
1 whole garlic bulb
3 ½ cups rice, washed

Fry the cubed meat until brown in the olive oil. Add the chopped onion and carrots. Add the spices and chopped garlic. Season with salt and freshly ground pepper. Add enough water to cover, bring to the boil and cook until the meat is tender – about 15/20 minutes approx. Add the washed rice and 200ml more water and boil rapidly until the water evaporates. Sprinkle turmeric over the top and place a whole bulb of garlic in the centre of the rice mixture. Cover with a lid and turn the heat down to low. Use a heat diffuser mat. Cook for 30/40 minutes, by which time the rice should have absorbed all the liquid. 

Serve with the Korean carrot salad and thinly sliced onion rings.

Ekra – Vegetable Stew

This recipe is from Uzbekistan. Aliona’s father gave her the recipe.

Serves 15-20

300g onion, chopped
1kg aubergine, cubed
300g carrots, grated
300g red pepper, cubed
300g tomatoes, grated and finely chopped
2 tablespoons tomato paste
1-2 chilli peppers, chopped
4 tablespoons olive oil

Fry the onion until golden then add the carrots, pepper, chilli, aubergine and tomatoes. Mix a little water with the tomato paste and a little salt and pepper and put in a saucepan with the vegetables. Place the pan on the heat, boil and simmer until the vegetables are cooked. Taste and add salt, pepper, water or paste if necessary.
Serve as salad or as an accompaniment. Keeps in a jar for months in the fridge. 

Aliona’s Ukranian Apple Cake

Serves 8

3 free range eggs
200g (7oz) sugar
3-4 apples
50g (2oz) butter
30g (1oz) sugar
160g (5½oz) plain flour
A few drops of pure vanilla extract
Cinnamon to taste

20-25cm deep pie dish

Preheat the oven to 200°C (400°F/Gas Mark 6)

Whisk the eggs and sugar in a mixer. Peel the apples and grate into slices (Aliona uses the side of a box grater). Brush the deep pie dish with butter and spread the apple on top. Dot with butter and sprinkle a little sugar over the apples with a little cinnamon. Add the flour to the egg and sugar and mix gently. Add the vanilla extract and pour the liquid over the apples. Sprinkle the top with cinnamon. Cook in the pie dish for 30-40 minutes approximately. Serve with softly whipped cream.

Bright’s Stir Fried Chicken with Wild Mushrooms and Oyster Sauce

Serves 6

200g (7oz) wild mushrooms
1 medium carrot, halved, thinly sliced
2 thin slices ginger
1 clove garlic, crushed
1 chicken breast, thinly sliced at an angle
600ml (1 pint) water
1/2 teaspoon Chinese five spice
2 tablespoons oyster sauce
2 spring onions, thinly sliced at an angle
1 dessertspoon arrowroot in water to thicken the juice
1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil 
salt, freshly ground pepper, sugar

Bring the water to the boil in a wide saucepan. Trim the mushrooms and scald in boiling water for a few seconds. Remove the mushrooms from the water with a Chinese sieve (Zhao Li) and put the mushrooms aside with a little of the water.

Heat a wok on the highest heat, add the olive oil (for a Chinese stir fry always add the oil to a very hot pan.) Stir fry the sliced carrots, ginger, chopped garlic and chicken for a few seconds and then add the water, Chinese five spice and oyster sauce. After 2 minutes, add the sliced mushrooms and the spring onion. Toss well. Season with salt, pepper and sugar and taste. This dish is a salty Chinese stir fry.
Add the arrowroot liquid into the juice. Don’t add it directly onto the hot pan or the arrowroot will burn immediately.) Mix the arrowroot through the dish, the juice should thicken quickly and coat all of the ingredients. Turn off the heat and sprinkle a little oil around the hot pan and turn over again. This step is to give Chinese dishes a fresh and light colour.

Remove to a hot plate and serve immediately.

Agnes’ Pierogi and Uszka

Serves

300g (11oz) strong white flour
1 egg yolk
1 tablespoons oil
1 level teaspoon salt
water

Sieve flour into a bowl, add salt. Boil the water. Let it cool down a little. Mix egg yolk into the flour. Add oil into the hot water and pour into the flour. Mix it until it comes together as a dough. Cover and leave to rest for 15mins. Meanwhile make the filling.

Meat filling
500g meat (chicken, lamb, pork)
2 onions, chopped
1 clove garlic 
2 tablesp olive oil
salt and freshly ground pepper

Cook the meat until tender. Chop onion and garlic. Cook it in olive oil until coloured (don't cover). Whizz meat in a food processor, add the onion, season well with salt and freshly ground pepper, mix it well.

Mushroom and cabbage stuffing
1 jar sour cabbage (sour kraut)
50g (2oz) dried mushroom (you can use Chinese mushrooms), chopped
2 onions, chopped
2 table sp olive oil
salt and freshly ground pepper

Soak mushroom (few hours before cooking) in cold water. Chop the cabbage finely Rinse and cook until almost tender. Cook mushroom till tender. Chop onion and sweat in olive oil until golden. Drain the mushroom and chop finely. Mix mushroom, cabbage and onion together, season with salt and pepper.

Roll dough to a thickness of 5mm, stamp out circles with a glass or scone cutter (6 cm). Use a smaller cutter for uszka.

Put a little stuffing in the middle of each circle and seal the edges, you should get half moons).

Bring a large saucepan of water to the boil, cook the pierogi or uszka for few minutes till tender. Melt some butter on the pan and fry pierogi until golden on the both sides. 
Serve uszka in the Barszcz. No need to fry.

Agnes’ Barszcz

A delicious Borsch like soup, quick and easy to make

Serves 6 approx

750g (1½ lbs) beetroot, grated
1 onion, chopped
3 garlic cloves, finely chopped
2 tsp cumin or caraway seeds
1 tablespoon white wine vinegar
850mls (1½ pints) chicken stock
salt and freshly ground pepper
1 tsp sugar

Wash and peel the beetroot. Grate it on the largest part of the grater. Chop the onion and garlic. Mix with the beetroot, add the vinegar, sugar and cumin. Leave to marinate for at least half an hour.

Bring the stock to the boil, take off the heat and fold in beetroot mixture, leave for half an hour (minimum). Strain through a very fine sieve. Heat it, season with salt and pepper add more vinegar and sugar if necessary. 

VERY IMPORTANT: DO NOT ALLOW TO BOIL, (it will spoil the colour). Serve with homemade uszka. 

Garnish with freshly chopped parsley.

Sernik – a (baked cheesecake)

Serves 10-12

110g (4ozs) sweet short crust pastry
1 kg white cottage cheese (available from Russian shops)
250g (9oz) unsalted butter
250g (9oz) castor suger
7 free range eggs (separated)
100g (3½oz) sultanas
candied peel (optional)
1 tablespoon vanilla extract
1 tablespoon cream flour

25cm square cake tin
Preheat the oven to 180°C (350°F/Gas Mark 4)
Line the tin with greaseproof paper and line with sweet short crust pastry. Put cheese into food processor till it is creamy. Cream butter with castor sugar. Then add cheese and egg yolks (one spoon of cheese one egg yolk). Add chopped candied peel, sultanas, vanilla extract. Next whisk in egg whites and fold into cheese mixture. Next stir in flour gently. Pour the mixture into the tin. Bake in the preheated oven for an hour. Leave to rest for at least half an hour before serving.


Fool-proof food

Bright’s Celery and Cashew Nut Salad

Serves 6

1 head of fresh celery
600ml (1 pint) water
3 teaspoons salt
200g (7oz) cashew nuts
1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
Pinch of sugar

Slice the celery diagonally into pieces the size of a cashew nut. Bring the water to the boil in a saucepan and add 2 teaspoons of salt. Salted water preserves the colour of the celery.

Add the celery to the boiling water and immediately turn off the heat. Leave the celery in the hot water for 3 minutes.

Drain off the water. The celery should still be crisp. Heat the oil in a frying pan and swirl to coat the base of the pan. Add the cashew nuts and stir constantly for 1 minute taking care not to burn the nuts. When the nuts are golden and smell toasted add the celery to the pan. Toss well and season with 1 teaspoon salt and a pinch of sugar to taste.

Serve hot or cold. 

This very simple salad is a completely delicious, fresh tasting and crunchy. Eat on it’s own or as an accompaniment to cold meats or warm chicken.

Hot Tips

Wednesday 26th April 2006, 7.30 Gourmet Store, Schull
Denis Cotter, Chef of the Year 2006, from the famous Café Paradiso, Cork, will be Cooking for Slow Food Members at The Gourmet Sore, Schull to celebrate the relaunch of Desmond And Gabriel Cheese made by Bill Hogan and Sean Ferry

Opening talk by John Minihane author and photographer.
Booking essential – booking call: 028 27613

More information on Desmond and Gabriel Cheese
Call Bill: 028 28593
Slow Food Information: Giana: 028 28231

Cookery demonstration by Darina Allen at the Garryvoe Hotel on Monday May 8th at 8pm to raise money for the families of the ‘Maggie B’ Fishing Vessel Sea-Tragedy Fund. Tickets €20 each. For details telephone: Ballymaloe Cookery School 
021 4646785

 

Recently we celebrated the Festive Foods of Easter with a Slow Food event at the Cookery School.

To get us into the spirit, a few weeks ago we had put some eggs in the incubator. Low and behold 21 days later little chicks started to chip and peck their way through the shells – such excitement, the students were out of their minds with delight. Most had never before witnessed the minor miracle of a chick struggling and squawking its way out of a shell.

For extra pzazz Rosalie made several Easter Trees and arrangements, and Mary Jo McMillin from Ohio made Easter Bunny biscuits to hang on the trees. First she decorated them with glace icing and psychedelic dragees, and then threaded little ribbons through them to hang them on the branches.

Slow Food events are convivial affairs so people were greeted with a glass of mulled apple juice or homemade lemonade.

Rory O’Connell, Mary Jo and I demonstrated a variety of Easter dishes.

Sweet succulent Spring lamb is an absolute must for Easter so we made two racks of lamb into a Guard of Honour and served it with Gratin of Potato and Mushroom and three sauces – Fresh Mint Chutney, Red Currant Jelly and a Sauce Soubise. We also made my favourite Easter Sunday pud - new season’s Rhubarb Tart.

Mary Jo made a wonderful batch of Hot Cross Buns, the dough for these needs to be soft and sticky so its difficult to handle but the result is tender crumb speckled with juicy raisins and sultanas and candied peel.

Easter is so much about eggs, since ancient times they have been a symbol of Spring rebirth and resurrection.

We saved the onion peelings from the school for several days and then cooked hardboiled eggs in boiling water with onion peels in the time-honoured way. The shells became a beautiful brown. With vegetable dyes one can produce a variety of colours but we often resort to magic markers to decorate the eggs that are laid by the hens on Good Friday.

On Easter Sunday our hens lay gaily decorated eggs with the children’s and grandchildren’s names, so there’s wild excitement collecting the eggs for breakfast.

At the Slow Food Event we also made Easter Egg nests, so easy with melted chocolate and rice krispies and little chocolate speckled eggs

Mary Jo then made some more grown up Easter meringue nests and filled them with a bitter chocolate mousse.

We made lots of Penny’s Easter buns and iced them with a lemon icing. The kiddies ones had mini eggs on top and the grown up ones were decorated with handmade crystallized primroses and violets – how adorable is that.

Finally, the piece de resistance, a Simnel Cake. Our traditional Easter treat – a rich fruit cake with a thick layer of almond paste in the centre. The cake is also iced with almond paste and decorated with eleven balls of marzipan which represent the 11 apostles, Judas who betrayed Jesus is not represented on the cake.

The whole cake is then glazed with egg yolk and toasted. We ate it while it was still warm. Later we laid out all our festive foods on a long table in the conservatory and had a delicious afternoon tea.

Happy Easter.

For details of Slow Food Ireland – visit www.slowfoodireland.com  or iona@cookingisfun.ie  

Simnel Cake

Simnel Cake is a traditional Easter cake. It has a layer of almond paste baked into the centre and a thick layer of almond icing on top. The 11 balls represent 11 of the 12 apostles - Judas is missing because he betrayed Jesus.

8 ozs (225g) butter
8 ozs (225g) pale, soft brown sugar
6 eggs, preferably free range
10 ozs (285g) white flour
1 teaspoon mixed spice
2 ½ fl ozs (35ml) Irish whiskey
12 ozs (340g) best quality sultanas
12 ozs (340g) best quality currants
12 ozs (340g) best quality raisins
4 ozs (110g) cherries
4 ozs (110g) home made candied peel
2 ozs (55g) whole almonds
2 ozs (55g) ground almonds
Rind of 1 lemon
Rind of 1 orange
1 large or 2 small Bramley Seedling apples, grated

Almond Paste

1 lb (450g) ground almonds

1 lb (450g) castor sugar
2 small eggs
A drop of pure almond essence
2 tablesp. (50ml) Irish whiskey

Line the base and sides of a 9 inch (23cm) round, or a 8 inch (20.5cm) square tin with brown paper and greaseproof paper.

Wash the cherries and dry them. Cut in two or four as desired. Blanch the almonds in boiling water for 1-2 minutes, rub off the skins and chop them finely. Mix the dried fruit, nuts, ground almonds and grated orange and lemon rind. Add about half of the whiskey and leave for 1 hour to macerate.

Next make the almond paste.

Sieve the castor sugar and mix with the ground almonds. Beat the eggs, add the whiskey and 1 drop of pure almond essence, then add to the other ingredients and mix to a stiff paste. (You may not need all the egg). Sprinkle the work top with icing sugar, turn out the almond paste and work lightly until smooth.

Preheat the oven to 180C/350F/regulo 4.

Cream the butter until very soft, add the sugar and beat until light and fluffy. Whisk the eggs and add in bit by bit, beating well between each addition so that the mixture doesn't curdle. Mix the spice with the flour and stir in gently. Add the grated apple to the fruit and mix in gently but thoroughly (don't beat the mixture again or you will toughen the cake).

Put half of the cake mixture into the prepared tin, roll about half of the almond paste into an 8½ inch (21.5cm) round. Place this on top of the cake mixture in the tin and cover with the remaining mixture. Make a slight hollow in the centre, dip you hand in water and pat it over the surface of the cake: this will ensure that the top is smooth when cooked. Cover the top with a single sheet of brown paper. 

Put into the preheated oven; reduce the heat to 160C/325F/regulo 3 after 1 hour. Bake until cooked, 3-3½ hours approx., test in the centre with a skewer - it should come out completely clean. Pour the rest of the whiskey over the cake and leave to cool in the tin. 

NOTE: When you are testing do so at an angle because the almond paste can give a false reading.

Next day remove the cake from the tin. Do not remove the lining paper but wrap in some extra greaseproof paper and tin foil until required.

When you wish to ice the cake, roll the remainder of the almond paste into a 9 inch (23cm) round. Brush the cake with a little lightly beaten egg white and top with the almond paste. Roll the remainder of the paste into 11 balls. Score the top of the cake in 1½ inch (4cm) squares or diamonds. Brush with beaten egg or egg yolk, stick the ‘apostles’ around the outer edge of the top, brush with beaten egg. Toast in a preheated oven 220C/425F/regulo 7, for 15-20 minutes or until slightly golden, Decorate with an Easter Chicken. Cut while warm or store for several weeks when cold.

NB: Almond paste may also be used to ice the side of the cake. You will need half the almond paste again.

This cake keeps for weeks or even months, but while still delicious it changes both in texture and flavour as it matures.

Mary Jo’s Meringue Nests with Dark Chocolate Mousse

4fl oz (125ml) egg whites (4 eggs)

6oz (175g) icing sugar
For 8 nests

Put the egg white and sieved icing sugar into the spotlessly clean dry bowl of a food mixer. Whisk for 6 to 8 minutes or to stiff peaks.

Line a baking tray with silicone paper (Bakewell) and divide meringue into 8 large blobs on lined tray. Pipe or shape into 4 inch (10cm) nests using back of a small spoon. Bake in a 150C/300F/gas 2 oven for 30 minutes. Reduce heat to 100C/200F/gas ¼ and bake until crisp. Turn off heat and allow to cool in oven. Slip nests onto serving platter.

Chocolate Mousse

6oz (175g) dark chocolate

3fl oz (75ml) brewed coffee
1 tablespoon rum or other liqueur
6fl oz(160ml) heavy cream

Place chocolate, coffee and rum in a pyrex bowl and set over saucepan of simmering water. Turn off heat and allow chocolate to melt. Stir liquid into melted chocolate and remove bowl from saucepan. Allow to cool to room temperature. To hasten cooling, place bowl over basin of ice water.

Whip cream to soft peaks and fold into cooled liquid chocolate. Place rounded dollop of chocolate mousse in each nest. Shave a little dark chocolate over tops using a vegetable peeler and a block of chocolate.
Refrigerate overnight or for a few hours.

Before serving decorate each nest with a circle of whipped cream. Top with a tiny Easter fluffy chick if desired.

Pennys Easter Buns with Crystallised Primroses or Violets or Mini Eggs

If you have just one oven you may need to make the cupcakes in three separate batches. Depending on how the cup cakes are decorated, this can be any occasion, a wedding cake, christening, anniversary, children’s party, sports day celebration ….

Makes 36

1lb (450g) butter (at room temperature)
1lb (450g) caster sugar
1lb (450g)) self-raising flour
6 large eggs preferably free-range and organic
6 tablespoons milk
1 1/2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract.

Lemon Icing: (makes enough for 12 cupcakes)

4oz (110g) icing sugar
Finely grated rind of 1/2 lemon
1-2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
3 muffin trays lined with 12 muffin cases each.

Preheat oven to 190ºC/375ºF/gas mark 5.

Put all ingredients except milk into a food processor and whizz until smooth. Scrape down sides, then add milk and whizz again.
Divide mixture between the cases in the muffin tins.

Bake in the preheated oven for 15 –20 minutes or until risen and golden. Remove from the tin and cool on a wire rack.

To finish:

Make the lemon icing:
Sieve the icing sugar into a bowl. Add the lemon rind and enough lemon juice to make a softish icing.
Decorate the buns with lemon icing and crystallized flowers or mini eggs.
Arrange in a pyramid on 2 or 3 cup cake stands or on a perspex cake stand.

To make Crystallized Flowers

Guidelines
Use fairly strong textured leaves, the smaller the flowers the more attractive they are when crystallized eg. primroses, violets.

The castor sugar must be absolutely dry, one could dry it in a low oven for about 2 hour approx.

Break up the egg white slightly with a fork. Using a child's paint brush it very carefully over each petal and into every cervice. Pour the castor sugar over the flower with a teaspoon, arrange the flower carefully on bakewell paper so that it has a good shape. Allow to dry overnight in a warm dry place, e.g. close to an Aga or over a radiator. If properly crystallized these flowers will last for months, even years, provided they are kept dry. We store them in a pottery jar or a tin box.

When you are crystallizing flowers remember to do lots of leaves also so one can make attractive arrangements - e.g. mint, lemon balm, wild strawberry, salad burnet or marguerite daisy leaves etc. 


Foolproof Food

Easter Egg Nests

Makes 24

4ozs (110g) Rice krispies
6ozs (175g) dark Chocolate
72 mini eggs

cup cake papers or ring moulds
Put the chocolate in a pyrex bowl over a saucepan of hot water. Bring just to the boil, turn off the heat and allow to melt in the bowl. Stir in the rice krispies.

Spoon into cup cake cases. Flatten a little and make a well in the centre. Fill with three speckled chocolate mini eggs. Allow to set. 

Hot Tips

Tasty Tipp-

Fabulous Food Fair in Co Tipperary – TIPP FM Food Fair at Thurles Greyhound Stadium on Sunday 21st May. This is the third Tipp Fm Food Fair and is being organized in association with Tipperary Leader. The fair will feature a unique showcase of enterprising food producers from all over Tipperary and nationwide with a whole array of exotic tastes to experience. To book a stand at this event contact Pam at 067-44466 or Noreen 087-2795900 or Geraldine 087 2523215 immediately. 

Tipperary LEADER Group devised a competition to create awareness of local food produce available in the county, amongst the youth in the Tipperary LEADER group area and inform them of the health, economic, environmental and wider societal benefits of eating local produce. They held The Tipperary Schools Local Food Competition – South Tipperary IFA sponsored the prizes and the final was presented in the format of ‘The Restaurant’ Programme on RTE. Judging was a deliciously difficult process. As well as generous monetary prizes the finalists were offered the opportunity of undertaking paid work experience in a catering establishment in their own area.

All competitors had their entries included in the Tipperary Schools Local Food Cookery Book which will be distributed to secondary schools throughout the area. The super little book contains an outline of the benefits of local food based recipes and a countywide contact list of local food producers and markets in Tipperary. 

Other counties please copy!

Visiting Belfast ?

Check out James Street South Restaurant at 21 James St. within walking distance of Belfast City Centre and its attractions. Fresh simple cuisine using the best of local produce – Lunch Monday to Saturday 12.00-2.45, dinner Monday to Saturday 5.45 – 10.45 and Sunday 5.30-9.00 www.jamesstreetsouth.co.uk  info@jamesstreetsouth.co.uk 

Tel 02890 434310

Irish Cider Industry –

The majority of the employment within the Irish cider industry is in the South –East, over 500 people are employed in the industry. Over 25% of the entire apple harvest in Ireland is used in cider production. The industry absorbs the entire national crop of cull apples and actively promotes the development of apple orchards as a viable form of farm enterprise.