Every morning when I see the gardeners coming in with baskets of freshly picked vegetables and herbs, I feel thrice blessed. Beautiful salad leaves, zucchini blossoms, a myriad of little leaves, misuna, mibuna, texel greens, orach, rocket leaves, sorrel and a variety of edible flowers for delicious salads. We still have some broad beans, beetroot, several varieties of kale and rainbow chard. The heirloom tomatoes are tailing off now as are the cucumbers, still there’s lots to choose from. I’m a hopeless photographer but I often feel like grabbing my camera to record the bounty. Today the impulse was irresistible when I saw Eileen manoeuvring a wheelbarrow full of pumpkins and squash up from the greenhouse. A myriad of shapes and sizes – Little Gem and crookneck squash, hubbard, turks turban, acorn, delicata, butternut squash, several huge pumpkins, a few Jack o lanterns’ and a variety of gourds. They looked like a glorious ‘still life’, Eileen and Kay arranged them in clusters on the window sills, along the shelves and piled them into wonderful pyramids in the centre of the dining room and serving tables. They looked so stunning sitting on the crimson leaves of the Virginia creeper and the Actinidia Kolomikta.

The whole school looks as though it was decked out for a Thanksgiving celebration

Almost immediately the displays prompted the inevitable questions what’s the difference between a squash and a pumpkin, how do you cook them, how do they taste, which pumpkin is best for a particular recipe.

Well having consulted a number of sources I’m still not totally clear about what exactly constitutes a squash or a pumpkin. Of all the families of fruit and vegetables I’ve come to the conclusion that pumpkins and squashes must surely be the most confusing. Not only are there hundreds of varieties but some go by a multitude of names.

Roughly they seem to divide in to Summer squashes and pumpkins and marrows and winter squashes and pumpkins and edible gourds – botanically speaking they are all members of the cucurbitaceae family, which also includes cucumbers, melons and decorative gourds. The majority of the summer squash are native to Central America and Mexico, while many of the winter squash originated in the Argentine Andes. Squash grows in both bush and vine forms, both are easy to grow and a few plants will provide you with enough squash to share with all your family and friends.

The blossoms of all squash from courgettes onwards are edible and delicious. The golden petals look wonderfully exotic in green salads. For a really impressive first course stuff each blossom with a little soft goat cheese or Mozzarella and a dab of pesto and perhaps a morsel of sun blushed tomato. Twist the tops of the petals together to seal, dip in a light batter and fry quickly. Serve immediately while they are crisp and plump. 

Squash or zucchini blossoms are a favourite filling for quesadillas in Mexico, serve with salsa.

Its usually better to harvest the male blossoms (the females have the fruit on the end), but be sure to leave a few on the plant to ensure pollination. 

For optimum flavour don’t harvest winter squash until we’ve had a cold snap, as with swede turnips a touch of frost enhances their sugar content. Winter squash harvested unblemished will keep in a cool dark place, eg a garage or garden shed, for up to 6 months.

Nutrition – Somehow I’d always supposed that squash and pumpkins weren’t up to much nutritionally but on the contrary, apparently a study done at the University of California at Davis, found Winter squash to be among the most nutritious vegetables, rivalling cabbage, carrots, spinach and potatoes. They are a tasty source of complex carbohydrates and fibre and provide iron, niacin and potassium. The orange flesh is high in beta carotene, the source of Vitamin A, the more orange the flesh the higher the content. Don’t forget to dry the seeds, add them to breakfast cereals, breads or simply sprinkle them with sea salt and nibble to your hearts content. 

Best flavour Squash

Butternut squash - smooth pale tan skin, longish neck, excellent flavour and texture.

Acorn – named for its shape, dark green skin is most common but it also comes in shades of orange and cream.

Delicata – another of my favourites – green cream, yellow and orange stripes, try to find small ones – dry, sweet tasting flesh, great for baking and stuffing.

Hubbard – an old favourite, shaped a bit like a spinning top, pale green to bluey-grey, dull orange flesh, good for baking, roasting, soups or add chunks into Winter stews.

Spaghetti marrow – an oval shaped pale yellow squash with flesh that forms long spaghetti like strands when its cooked. Bake or boil, serve with a gutsy Bolognese type sauce, or a garlic and parsley butter.

Little Gem – a dark green/black tasty little squash the size of a cricket ball, mature in early August and can be stored till Christmas. The deep yellow flesh is moist and sweet. They can be boiled whole and eaten with butter and cinnamon. Very popular in South Africa.

Turks turban, easy to recognise, so beautiful you’ll be reluctant to cook this vividly coloured squash – its good but not quite as tasty as some of the other varieties.

Beef and Pumpkin Stew

Serves 6

1½ lb (700g) stewing beef
olive oil
8oz (225g) onion
8oz (225g) carrot
8oz (225g) pumpkin
8oz (225g) parsnip
salt and freshly ground pepper
½ pint (300ml) water or beef stock

Cut the meat into 1½ inch (4cm) chunks approx. Heat a little olive oil in a frying pan, toss the meat in the hot pan, transfer to a casserole, then toss the vegetables in the hot oil and add to the meat. Season with salt and freshly ground pepper, add ½ pint (300ml) water or beef stock, bring to the boil and simmer for 45 minutes – 1 hour.

Serve with fluffy mashed potato or colcannon

Granola

A toasted grain cereal.

Serves 20

12 ozs (340g) honey
8 fl ozs (225g) oil eg. sunflower or arachide
1 lb 1 oz (370g) oat flakes
7 ozs (200g) barley flakes
7 ozs (200g) wheat flakes
3½ ozs (100g) rye flakes
5 ozs (140g) seedless raisins or sultanas
4 ozs (110g) peanuts/hazelnuts, or cashew nuts split and roasted
1oz (25g) pumpkin seeds toasted
2¾ ozs (75g) wheatgerm and /or millet flakes
2 ozs (55g) chopped apricots and or chopped dates etc. are nice additions too

Mix oil and honey together in a saucepan, heat just enough to melt the honey. Mix well into the mixed flakes. Spread thinly on two baking sheets.

Bake in a moderate oven 180C/350F/regulo 4, for 20-30 minutes, turning frequently, making sure the edges don't burn. It should be just golden and toasted, not roasted!

Cool and mix in the raisins or sultanas, roasted nuts, toasted seeds, chopped dates, apricots and wheatgerm. Store in a screw top jar or a plastic box, keeps for 1-2 weeks.
Serve with sliced banana.

Stuffed Courgette Blossoms with Goats Cheese, Pesto and Tomato Fondue

In the Summer we grow courgettes (zucchini) in both the Kitchen garden and the Green Houses they produce hundreds of canary yellow blossoms. The female flowers produce the fruit but we use the male flowers in our salads, as a container for sauces and in soups. They are also utterly delicious stuffed with a few melting morsels, then dipped in a light batter and deep fried until crisp and golden. 
Serves 6-8 

Batter (excellent for fish fillets also) 
140g (5ozs) plain flour 
1: tablespoons olive oil 
Water
1-12 egg whites
Sea salt 
Sunflower oil for deep frying 
12 - 16 courgette flowers approx.

Filling 
175g - 225g (6 - 8ozs) fresh Irish goat=s cheese (I use St Tola, Crogan or Ardsallagh, each wonderful but different) 
3-4 teaspoons Pesto 
3-4 tablespoons Tomato fondue 

First make the batter. Sieve the flour into a bowl, make a well in the centre, pour in the olive oil, stir and add enough water to make a batter about the consistency of thick cream. Allow to stand for at least 1 hour if you can. 

Just before cooking, whisk the egg whites to a stiff peak and fold into the batter. Add salt to taste.

Heat the oil in the deep fryer until very hot. Remove the >thorns= from the base of the courgette flowers and the stamens from the centre. Hold a courgette flower upright, open slightly and carefully. Put about 15g (2oz) goat=s cheese, 2 teaspoon pesto and 1 teaspoon of Tomato fondue into each. Twist the tip of the petals to seal. Dip in batter and drop into the hot oil. Fry on one side for about 2 minutes and then turn over. They=ll take about 4 minutes in total to become crisp and golden. 

Drain on kitchen paper and serve immediately - just as they are or with hot Tomato Sauce or a little extra Tomato fondue. 

Creamy Winter Squash Soup

– from James McNair’s Squash Cookbook, published by Chronicle Books, San Francisco

He usually prepares this soup with pumpkin, other winter squash such as ‘Buttercup’, ‘Butternut’, or ‘Hubbard’ can be used with excellent results.
Serves 6

To prepare an edible serving bowl, cut off and reserve the top of a large whole squash of the same type used to prepare the soup. With a spoon, scoop out the seeds and stringy portions, replace the top, and wrap the stem with foil to prevent it from burning. Place in a shallow pan containing about ½ inch of water and bake in a preheated oven 350F/180C/gas 4, until the pumpkin is tender but still holds its shape, about 1 hour.

4 tablesp. unsalted butter
1 cup (4 oz) chopped leek, white part only
½ cup (2oz) chopped shallot
1½ lbs (700g) pumpkin, or other winter squash, peeled, cleaned, and cut into 
½ inch chunks, or 3 cups pureed cooked pumpkin or other winter squash from about 1½ lbs (700g) raw squash.
1 quart homemade chicken stock or chicken broth
1 cup (8fl.ozs) heavy whipping cream or light cream
1 cup (8fl.ozs) freshly squeezed orange juice
½ teasp. ground ginger
salt
freshly ground white pepper
crème fraiche or sour cream
chopped toasted hazelnuts for garnish
minced orange zest for garnish

In a large heavy saucepan, melt the butter over medium-high heat. Add the leek and shallot and sauté until very tender and golden, about 8 minutes. Add the pumpkin or other squash and chicken stock or broth. Bring to a boil, cover, reduce heat to low, and simmer until the squash is tender, about 30 minutes. (If using pumpkin or other squash puree, simmer about 15 minutes.)

Working in batches, transfer to a food processor or blender and puree. Place in a clean saucepan, add the cream, orange juice, ginger and salt and pepper to taste. Place over medium heat, stirring frequently, until hot; do not boil. Carefully pour into baked pumpkin shell if desired (see above). Ladle into preheated bowls, add a dollop of crème fraiche or sour cream, and garnish with toasted hazelnuts and orange zest.

Note: To toast hazelnuts, place in a shallow pan in a 350F/180C/gas 4 oven, stirring frequently, until the nuts are golden under their skins. Transfer to a plate to cool. Rub nuts between fingertips to remove skins.

Foolproof Food

Wholemeal Bread with Pumpkin Seeds

Makes 1 loaf or 3 small loaves

400g (14 oz) stone ground wholemeal flour
55g (3oz) white flour, preferably unbleached
1 level teaspoon bread soda, sieved (Bicarbonate of Soda/Baking Soda)
1 teaspoon salt
25g (1oz) pumpkin seeds
1 teaspoon honey
1 egg, preferably free range
1 tablespoon arachide or sunflower oil, unscented
425ml (15fl oz) buttermilk or sourmilk approx. (put all the milk in)
extra pumpkin seeds to scatter on top

Loaf tin - 9 inches (23cm) x 5 inches (12.5cm) x 2 inches (5cm) 

Preheat oven to 2001C/4001F/regulo 6.

Put all the dry ingredients including the sieved bread soda into a large bowl, mix well. Whisk the egg, add the oil and honey most of the buttermilk. Make a well in the centre of the dry ingredients and pour in all the liquid, mix well and add more buttermilk if necessary. The mixture should be soft and slightly sloppy, pour into an oiled tin or tins. Scatter some pumpkins seeds on top. 

Bake for 60 minutes approx, or until the bread is nice and crusty and sounds hollow when tapped. Cool on a wire rack.


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I’ve just read a fascinating article about dates, so much so that it has whetted my appetite in every sense of the word to make a pilgrimage to Saudi Arabia in search of the very best dates. Apparently date connoisseurs throughout Asia, Africa and the Middle East consider the Khalasah – pronounced Kha-lah-sah to be the quintessential date against which all others are judged. Known as Khlas in Saudi Arabia, the name loosely translates as quintessential in Arabic. Its home is in the kingdom’s eastern province, more specifically Hofuf the main city of the Al Hasa oasis. The very best growers, roughly 100 in number come from Al Mutairfi village and are considered to be the undisputed masters. The harvest starts in May and goes right through to October. 

I adore dates, the first I tasted came in the elongated timber box lined with a scalloped doyley edging. The shiny sticky dates covered with a disc of cellophane tasted strange but deliciously exotic to a six year old. My father had brought them home as a present for Mummy after one of his rare trips to Dublin – we all crowded around and were offered one to taste. My next encounter with dates was less exotic, at boarding school a block of dates still in its cellophane wrapper was unceremoniously placed on the table for tea every Thursday. At first we had no idea what we were supposed to do, then we simply ate them on white bread and butter – surprisingly delicious – I’ve always been fond of date sandwiches ever since – immeasurably better than sandwich spread which was Wednesday’s treat!

I’ve experimented with dates on and off in biscuits, bars, tarts and cakes, but it wasn’t until my first visit Morocco, that I tasted the plump succulent Medjool date – a revelation. I thought this rich chewy jumbo date must be the most delicious of all dates but now I read that it pales in comparison to the Khalasah.

The date palm Phoenix dactylera is thought to be the world’s oldest cultivated fruit. Fossil records reveal that the date palm was widely grown in the Mediterranean and in Mesopotamia as early as the Eocene Epoch some 50 million years ago. There are many written references, among them a AKKadran cunuform text from about 2500BC, which mentions the date palm as a cultivated tree. The date palm flourishes best between 15 & 35 degrees north, principally in the arid areas of North Africa, the Arabian peninsula, Souther Iraq where dates have been a staple food not only for humans but also for animals for thousands of years.

I remember watching a flock of sheep ambling onto the lawn of our hotel near Taroudant in Morocco to hoover up the windfall dates every day.

The Food and Agriculture Organisation of the UN estimate that there are approximately 600 different types of dates and 90 million date palms in the world, producing in excess of 3 million tons a year. 

Dates are dates are dates as far as most of us are concerned – not so in date growing countries where there are specific terms to describe different degrees of ripeness.

Khalah when the dates are almost fully grown, have started to ripen but are still fresh and crunchy. When the dates are partially ripe or fully ripe they are referred to as Rutab. Tamr yabis is the stage when the dates ripen on the tree and are left to dry – they are the least perishable of all the dates.

California also grows a considerable acreage of dates mostly Medjool and Deglet noor. The latter meaning ‘date of light’ or ‘translucent’, is medium sweet and has a sweet nutty aftertaste. I tasted some delicious ones last year when Mr Bell the charismatic Moroccan owner of the ethnic food stalls in Cork Market gave me a box for a present. He explained that during Ramadan, Muslims break the fast at sunset with a sip of water and a few dates. Finally if we are really to appreciate dates, we shouldn’t gobble them up as I’ve been known to do, instead one should let a date melt slowly in one’s mouth. At first there will be no taste, then as the date begins to warm the outer skin will become detached and slide off. Soon the soft flesh will begin to fill the mouth with flavours of honey caramel and sweet potatoes, toffee, … Try it, the texture will be a revelation, but apparently not a patch on the Khalasah – can’t wait to taste it.

Date and Walnut Cake

From The Ballymaloe Cookbook by Myrtle Allen

Makes approx. 10 slices

1 cup chopped dates
1 cup boiling water
½ teasp. breadsoda
1 cup sugar
2oz (50g) softened butter
1 beaten egg
1 teasp. vanilla essence
1½ cups flour
½ teasp baking powder
pinch of salt
1 cup chopped walnuts

Frosting

2½ tablesp brown sugar
5 tablesp cream
1 oz (25g) butter
â…“ cup approx. icing sugar

walnuts for decoration
Shallow tin 9 x 12 inches (23x30cm) or 2 smaller ones, greased.

Pour boiling water over the dates and add bread soda. Cream butter and sugar together and gradually beat in the egg, vanilla essence, flour, baking powder and salt. Finally add walnuts and combine with date mixture.
Bake at 375F/190C/regulo 5 for approx. 35 minutes. 

When cool ice with the frosting and decorate with walnuts.
To make the frosting: Put sugar, cream and butter in a saucepan and boil for 3 minutes. Add icing sugar and cool. Add a little more icing sugar if too liquid.

Rory O’Connell’s Date Tart

Serves 8

15 fresh dates, halved and pitted
7 egg yolks
3¼ oz (80g) castor sugar
700ml (1.25pints approx) pouring cream
½ vanilla pod, split lengthwise

Pastry
7¼ oz (205g) butter, chopped
1 oz (25g) castor sugar
1 tablespoon milk
10oz (275g) white flour

9 inch (23cm) flan tin with a removable base

For pastry, combine butter, sugar, and milk in a food processor and process until butter is in small pieces. Add flour and process until mixture just comes together in a ball. Gently knead pastry on a lightly floured surface to form a smooth ball. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 2 hours. Roll out pastry on a lightly floured surface and line a 9 inch flan tin with a removable base. Cover and refrigerate for 30 minutes. Place the tart shell on an oven tray, line with baking paper, fill with dried beans or rice and bake at 200C for 10 minutes. Remove paper and beans and bake a further 10 minutes, or until golden.

Place dates on pastry in two circles. Cream egg yolks and sugar until light and fluffy, then stir in cream and seeds from vanilla bean. Pour cream mixture into tart shell, to cover dates, then bake at 180C for about 30 minutes or until just set. Cool at room temperature before serving.

Lamb and Medjool Date Tagine, Herbed Couscous

Merrilees Parker gave me this recipe when she was guest chef here at the Cookery School.

Serves 6-8

2 tbsp paprika
1 tbsp each ground coriander and turmeric
2 tsp each ground cinnamon and cumin
2 tsp coarse ground black pepper
1.5kg/3lb 5oz lamb shoulder, well trimmed and cut into 4cm/11/2in chunks
4 garlic cloves, chopped
2.5cm/1in piece peeled root ginger, chopped
3 onions, roughly chopped
2 tbsp olive oil
600ml/1 pint tomato juice
600ml/1 pint lamb or chicken stock
2 tbsp clear honey
225g/8oz Medjool dates, cut in half and stones removed

For the Couscous
350g/12oz medium couscous
juice of 2 lemons
6 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
600ml/1 pint chicken stock
4 tbsp chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley and mint
Maldon sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

Greek style yoghurt and fresh coriander leaves, to garnish

Mix together the paprika, coriander, turmeric, cinnamon, cumin and pepper in a large bowl, then tip half into a small bowl and set aside. Add the lamb to the large bowl and coat in the spices. Cover with clingfilm and chill overnight.

Preheat the oven to 325F/170C/Gas 3. Place the garlic, ginger and onions into a food processor and pulse until finely minced. Heat a large heavy-based casserole. Add half of the oil and brown off the marinated lamb in batches. Add the remaining oil to the pan and then add the onion mixture cook for a few minutes until softened but not coloured. Stir in the reserved spice mixture and cook for another minute or so until well combined.

Pour the tomato juice and stock into the pan and then add the honey, stirring to combine. Bring to the boil, cover and transfer to the oven. Cook for 1 hour, then stir in the dates and cook for another hour until the lamb is completely tender and and sauce has thickened and reduced. Season to taste.

To make the couscous; place it in a large bowl and add four tablespoons of the oil and the lemon juice. Mix well ensuring that all the grains are completely coated. Heat the stock in a small pan and season generously. Pour over the couscous and allow to sit in a warm place for 6-8 minutes until all the liquid has absorbed, stirring occasionally. To serve, stir in the remaining oil and the herbs into the couscous and arrange on plates with the tagine. Finally garnish with a dollop of the Greek yoghurt and coriander leaves.

Marzipan Dates

Makes 28

Use up your scraps of almond paste on these Marzipan Dates. 

28 fresh dates
4 ozs (110g) almond paste or marzipan (see recipe)
Castor sugar

Split one side of the date and remove the stone. Roll a little piece of marzipan into an oblong shape so that it will fit neatly into the opening. Smooth the top and roll the stuffed date in castor sugar. Repeat the procedure until all the dates and marzipan are used up. Serve as a petit four or as part of a selection of home-made sweets. 

Almond Paste
225g (8oz) ground almonds
225g (8oz) castor sugar
1 small egg
A tiny drop of pure almond essence
1 tablespoon Irish whiskey

Sieve the castor sugar and mix with the ground almonds. Beat the egg, add the whiskey and 1 drop of pure almond essence, then add to the other ingredients and mix to a stiff paste. (You may not need all of the egg). Sprinkle the work top with icing sugar, turn out the almond paste and work lightly until smooth.

Medjoul Dates with Pistachio

Dip the top of the stuffed date in finely chopped pistachio nuts.

Serve as above

Date pudding with cardamon toffee sauce

Serves 8-10

6 ozs (170g) dates, pitted and chopped
1 teasp. bread soda (bicarbonate of soda)
8 fl ozs (250ml) boiling water
2 tablesp. butter
6 ozs (170g) castor sugar
2 free range eggs
6 ozs (170g) self-raising flour
½ teasp. vanilla extract

Cardamon toffee sauce
4ozs (110g) butter
6ozs (175g) dark soft brown, Barbados sugar
4ozs (110g) granulated sugar
10ozs (275g) golden syrup
8fl.ozs (225ml) cream
½ teasp. vanilla extract
4 cardamon pods, crushed

7 inch (18cm) square cake tin, well buttered.

Mix the dates with the bread soda.
Pour water over dates and leave to stand.
Cream butter and sugar until light and fluffy
Beat in the eggs one by one.
Gently fold in flour, stir in date mixture and vanilla, and pour into the prepared cake tin. Bake at 180C (*425F) for 25 minutes, then reduce the temperature to 160C (350-375F) for a further 10 minutes approx.

Meanwhile bring sauce ingredients to the boil and simmer for 5 minutes.
Cut pudding into squares and place on warm serving plates.
Discard cardamon pods, pour sauce over the pudding and serve.

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Tel 051-388933
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Tullamore Country Fair – this Farmers and Producers Market is held every Saturday in Millennium Square in Tullamore, Co Offaly

Mullingar Market – moves to new location in Harbour Place shopping Centre, every other Sunday from 3rd October.

Foolproof food

Date and Banana with Yoghurt

Serves 4-6

4-5 bananas
8 ozs (225g) stoned dates, fresh or dried
½ pint (300ml) yoghurt
a little cream

Arrange alternate layers of thinly sliced bananas and halved dates in a serving bowl. Spoon a little cream and yoghurt all over and chill for a few hours before serving. The yoghurt will soak into the fruit and give it a soft slightly sticky texture – sublime!

Driving through Piedmont, the countryside in late October is gloriously Autumnal. This is Barolo and Barbaresco region, most of the grapes have already been picked and the leaves on the vines are turning a variety of orange and burnished red, rust and gold. The vineyards are interspersed with hazelnut groves – this is nougat, giandujotte and Nutella country.
Every bar and enoteca (wine bar) serves Torta di Nocciole. I’ve just eaten a delicious slice topped with zabione in a little café in Monteforte de Alba. The grumpy landlord refused to give me a plate of Vitello Tonnato – too late for lunch, so I succumbed to the temptation which I fear will be forever on my hips.
During the truffle season Tartufo are Piedmont’s greatest gastronomic treasure, aficionados come from all over the world during the truffle season to savour this earthy delicacy. This precious fungus looks like a knobbly potato and grows 4-6 inches below the ground in parasitical symbiosis with the roots of oak walnut, chestnut, hazelnut, and willow trees.

An old truffle hunter explained to me that the harder the wood of the tree the more intense the truffle’s perfume. Some are as tiny as marbles but in rare cases they can be as big as your fist. Two types are found in Italy, the Tuber melansporum – a black truffle with little flavour in season from November to March all over Italy. Tuber magnatum – the white truffle on the other hand is highly scented and exquisitely flavoured and excruciatingly expensive. We visited the truffle market in Alba held on Saturday morning from September through January. There were about twelve farmers in winceyette check shirts and dungarees each sitting on stools watching protectively over their little cache.
The truffles were displayed like jewels in covered cases and as one passed by the proud owner would lift the cover slightly to allow a tantalising waft of aroma to escape. I was longing to buy a truffle but wasn’t sure what to look out for or how to judge a really good one, particularly when my pitiful Italian made it impossible to ask the questions I so badly needed answers to. I watched the other truffle hunters going about their purchase, each one sniffed the truffles individually and then felt, so I gathered that apart from the aroma, it was important that the truffle was firm, not soft or spongy. Then I realised that there was a truffle inspector available to customers so I carefully made my purchase from a local farmer. I was mightily relieved when after much sniffing and feeling it was endorsed by the inspector.

I’ve always longed to link up with a farmer to go truffle hunting but the search involves much stealth and secrecy. Selectively bred pigs or more usually nowadays hounds, help their masters to find the truffles, sometimes several kilos, in an evening. This harvest is sold furtively by the gram in early morning markets, cash only, no cameras allowed, transactions conducted in a local dialect. Unscrupulous vendors have a myriad of ways to piece together a broken truffle or fill wormholes with clay to add extra weight. Consequently its better for the inexperienced buyer to head for markets in Alba or Asti.

Few cookbooks tell you what to do with a precious truffle if you should decide to purchase one. Use it soon. Its best shaved over an omelette or simply fried or scrambled eggs. Its also divine with fresh pasta, tossed in a simple sauce of cream and parmesan. At about €3 a gram you’re unlikely to have large quantities to worry about.
Chestnuts are another speciality of the Piedmont region, they are preserved in syrup and sold as marrons glacés, a local speciality despite its French name.
Grissini or bread sticks are another speciality of the area – up to a yard long, the best are hand rolled and slightly knobbly and bear little resemblance to the boring packaged commercial grissini.

This area is full of surprises, it wasn’t until we passed through the little village of Arboria that I realised that Piedmont is also an important rice growing region. The flat fields are flooded to grow Arboria, Canaroli and Vilano Nano rice for risottos. I’ve always loved the food in this region of Italy, less well known than Tuscany and for my palate much more varied.
We ate wonderful Bagna Cauda – raw seasonal vegetables dipped in a hot bath of olive oil, garlic and anchovies. I also adore Vitello Tonnato, wafer thin slices of roast veal with a tuna flavoured mayo. Almost every meal starts with a salumi course followed by an antipasto, Primo is the pasta course, perhaps plump agnolotti filled with chopped roast meat or tajarin, thin shoelace homemade egg pasta with various sauces. We also enjoyed potato gnocchi and of course Fonduta with shavings of truffle. Next comes the main course – Seconda. One mustn’t miss Bollito misto, a mixture of boiled meat including tongue, served with salsa verde or rossa.

Look out for Finanziana also – a stew of cocks combs, chicken livers, sweet breads and other exciting variety meats. Fritto misto turns out to be a huge platter of deep fried foods, lamb chops, chicken, zucchini and their blossom, aubergine, mushrooms, cauliflowers, fried cream and sometimes peaches and amaretto biscuits.
If you’ve got any room left you can tuck into Formaggio (local cheese), followed by Dolce (dessert). I always seek out Castelmagno, a terrifying looking, rare and pungent cow’s milk cheese with a cult following. Its certainly not for the faint hearted, there’s also Gorgonzola, Bra, Tom and many many others that live on in one’s memory.
Desserts are for me least memorable, I am still mystified by people’s attachment to Bonet -a trifle like pudding with chocolate, rum and amaretti, Pere al barola – pears slow cooked in the lovely Barola wine, can be delicious with a wobbly Pannacotta and one must taste a foamy zabaione at least once. Aer Lingus flies into Milan from Dublin daily, also Al Italia, and from Cork the direct service from Milan ran from April to the end of October twice weekly, so its easy to get to this area. My advice is to quickly head for Turin and then meander through the countryside, truly a food and wine lover’s paradise.

Fried Eggs with White Truffles from Piedmont

Truffles, a rare treat, have a natural affinity with eggs, this is a favourite way to enjoy them in Alba.

Serves 2

4 fresh free range eggs, preferably organic
extra virgin olive oil
1 small white truffle
salt and freshly ground pepper
crusty white bread

Heat a little oil in a frying pan, add the eggs (you’ll need to cook them in batches). Fry the eggs gently. When the white is set but the yolk still soft, transfer 2 eggs to a warm plate. Top with slivers of truffle.
Serve immediately and enjoy every mouthful.

Breadsticks – Grissini

Crusty breadsticks are all the rage now. The more rustic looking the better, great with soups, salads or just to nibble. Remember they will double in size, so roll very thinly.

Ballymaloe White Yeast Bread dough (see recipe)

Sea salt, chopped rosemary, crushed cumin seeds, sesame seeds, poppy seeds, ground black pepper, chilli flakes, grated Parmesan cheese…..
When the dough has been ‘knocked back’, preheat the oven to 220C/425F/gas mark 7. Sprinkle the work surface with coarse sea salt or chosen flavouring.
Pull off small pieces of dough, 15-25g (½-1oz). Roll into very thin, medium or fat breadsticks with your hands. Roll in chosen ‘sprinkle’ (you may need to brush lightly with cold water first). Place on a baking sheet. Repeat this process until all the dough has been used.
Bake in a preheated oven for 8-15 minutes depending on size until golden brown and crisp. Cool on a wire rack.
Note: Breadsticks are usually baked without a final rising but for a slightly, lighter result let the shaped dough rise for about 10 minutes before baking.
Wiggly Worm: Shape a very thin breadstick which has been rolled in finely grated Parmesan cheese into a wiggly worm. Serve with Kinoith Garden Salad.
Bread sticks wrapped in a slice of Parma or Serrano ham make a delicious nibble to serve with an aperitif.

Ballymaloe White Yeast Bread

This loaf is always served in a traditional plait shape in Ballymaloe but it can be shaped in many forms, from rolls to loaves or even in to animal shapes! It is a traditional white yeast bread and once you have mastered this basic techinique the sky is the limit.

Makes 2 x 1 lb (450g) loaves
20g (¾oz) fresh yeast
425ml (15 floz) water
30g (1oz) butter
2 teaspoons salt
15g ( ½ oz) sugar
675g (1½ lbs) strong white flour
Poppy seeds or Sesame seeds for topping – optional
2 x loaf tins 13 x 20cms 5” x 8” 

Sponge the yeast in 150ml (5fl oz) of tepid water, leave in a warm place for about five minutes.
In a large wide mixing bowl sieve the flour, salt and sugar. Rub in the butter, make a well in the centre.
Pour in the sponged yeast and most of the remaining lukewarm water. Mix to a loose dough adding the remaining liquid or a little extra flour if needed
Turn the dough onto a lightly floured work surface, cover and leave to relax for 5 minutes approximately. 

Then knead for about 10 minutes or until smooth, springy and elastic (if kneading in a food mixer with a dough hook, 5 minutes is usually long enough).
Put the dough in a large delph bowl. Cover the top tightly with cling film (yeast dough rises best in a warm moist atmosphere).
When the dough has more than doubled in size, 1½ - 2 hours, knock back and knead again for about 2 to 3 minutes. Leave to relax again for 10 minutes.
Shape the bread into loaves, plaits or rolls, transfer to a baking sheet and cover with a light tea towel. Allow to rise again in a warm place, until the shaped dough has again doubled in size. 

The bread is ready for baking when a small dent remains when the dough is pressed lightly with the finger. Brush with egg wash and sprinkle with poppy or sesame seeds if using them. Or dust lightly with flour for a rustic looking loaf.
Bake in a fully preheated hot oven, 230C/450F/regulo 9 for 25 - 35 minutes depending on size.

The bread should sound hollow when tapped underneath. Cool on a wire rack.
To make a plait-
Take half the quantity of white yeast dough after it has been ‘knocked back’, divide into three equal pieces. With both hands roll each one into a rope, thickness depends on how fat you want the plait. Then pinch the three ends together at the top, bring each outside strand into the center alternatively to form a plait, pinch the ends and tuck in neatly. Transfer onto a baking tray. Allow to double in size. Egg wash or dredge with flour.

Bagna Cauda

This is one of the great specialities of the Piedmont area in Northern Italy.

Serves 4-6

A variety of raw vegetables cut in bite sized pieces eg. peppers, cardoons, celery, carrots, cauliflower, broccoli, fennel
Globe artichoke heart and Jerusalem artichokes
boiled potatoes and beetroot
Lots of crusty bread
6 fl ozs (175ml) olive oil
5 cloves garlic, crushed
14 anchovy fillets, chopped
4 ozs (110g) butter

Heat the oil gently in a small pot, add the garlic and cook until soft but not brown. Add the anchovies and stir over a low heat until dissolved. Add in the butter and serve in the pot, keep warm on a spirit lamp or over a night light. Guests then dip in the vegetables in the Bagna Cauda and eat them immediately.

Torta di Nocciole (Hazelnut Pound Cake)

From ‘Celebrating Italy’ by Carol Field

This hazelnut pound cake is without doubt the dessert of Alba.
Makes 1 pound cake

150g (5oz) unsalted butter, room temperature
250g (9oz) castor sugar
3 eggs, separated, warm room temperature
1 teaspoon vanilla essence
120g (4½ oz) hazelnuts, toasted, peeled and finely chopped
250g (9oz) plain flour
1 tablespoon + 1 teaspoon baking powder
pinch salt

9 x 5 inch (23 x 12.5cm) loaf tin, lined with parchment paper.
Preheat the oven to 350F/180c/gas 4

Cream the butter and 225g (8oz) of sugar with a wooden spoon or with the whisk of an electric mixer at medium-high speed until light and fluffy, about 5 minutes by hand, or 3-5 minutes by mixer. Add the egg yolks, one at a time, beating thoroughly after each addition. Beat in the vanilla, then the hazelnuts. Sift the flour, baking powder, and salt together, then resift them over the batter and gently fold into the batter. In a separate bowl beat the egg whites until fluffy. Add the remaining 25g (1oz) of sugar, 1 tablespoon at a time, and continue beating until the mixture is glossy and holds peaks. Change to the paddle attachment on your mixer and on the lowest speed, stir the egg whites into the hazelnut mixture in 3 careful additions.
Pour the batter into the lined tin. Bake in the preheated oven until a skewer inserted in the centre comes out clean, 50-60 minutes.

Foolproof Food

Zabaione

This is possibly everyone’s favourite Italian dessert. Marsala is best in it but you can use a mixture of dark rum and sweet sherry instead.

Serves 4

4 egg yolks, preferably free range
4 tablesp. castor sugar
8 tablesp. Marsala
8 - 12 sponge fingers
1 bowl 4 pint (2.3L) capacity

Bring a saucepan of water to the boil. Separate the eggs, put the yolks into the bowl with the castor sugar and whisk for a few seconds until they fluff up. Sit the bowl into a saucepan of simmering water, add the Marsala whisking all the time and continue until the zabaglione is light and fluffy and has increased enormously in volume - about 5-8 minutes with an electric whisk or 15 minutes by hand. Pour at once into warm glasses, put each one on a plate and serve immediately with a few sponge fingers to dunk in the boozy fluff.
Zabaione is also delicious served with fresh summer berries

Hot Tips

Markets News –
Ahascragh Country Market in Co Galway – next market on 20th November 11-1 – will include tastings of Christmas goodies and orders may be placed on the day. Locally produced – Cakes, jams, relishes, vegetables, fruit, crafts and much more.
Birr, Co Offaly – next market also on 20th November.
Cahir Farmers Market – every Saturday 9- 1- the very best of locally produced foods.

Listowel Food Fair – will run from November 4-8th – now celebrating its tenth year the fair is still gathering momentum. Opening by Anne Cassin of RTE and featuring celebrity chef Neven Maguire. www.listowelfoodfair.com  email:listowelfoodfair@eircom.net  Tel. 068-23034.

Retail Foodshow 2004 - City West Dublin– November 7th.This is a one-stop market place which puts food producers and equipment/service suppliers face to face with their customers. Associated Craft Butchers of Ireland, Apollo Business Park, Dundrum Road, Dundrum, Dublin 14 Tel: 01-2961400 info@craftbutchers.ie

I’ve just returned from Bristol where I spent two days judging the Soil Association Organic Food Awards with a plethora of food writers and celebrity chefs including Hugh Fearnley Whittingstall, Giorgio Locatelli, Matthew Fort and Fiona Beckett.

This year there were over 1000 entries, 1 chomped my way through 20 chickens, 4 ducks, 12 pieces of roast loin of pork with crackling. Many were rare breeds with lip- smacking flavour. Others tasted sausages, cured meat, fruit and vegetables, cheese and yogurt and other dairy products, jams, preserves, wines and non-alcoholic drinks, baby foods, teas, coffee, chocolate, prepared foods….. Top chefs love to be involved with judging these awards. Top chef Hugh Fearnley Whittingstall said, ‘I’ve been a judge for five years now and its helped me discover some of the most delicious food. Even when I missed a year, I was sent some beef by the category winners to try for my book – it was absolutely stunning.’

This year’s awards also included Best School Dinners reflecting the campaigning work done by the Soil Association to improve the quality of school meals, 

The Organic Food Awards are all about rewarding and highlighting the best in organic food and drink. Special awards include the Organic Restaurant Award, Box Scheme of the Year, Best Local Food Initiative, and Producer of the Year.

Judging in all categories is by blind tasting. The judging panel for each category is informed of variety and constituent ingredients but is not made aware of brand or manufacturer details until the judging is complete. The judging coincides with the Bristol Soil Association Organic Food Festival on Bristol’s vibrant harbourside. The event is gathering momentum at an amazing pace – the first year there were 7,000 visitors, last year over 20,000 and this year numbers topped that.

Many people dismiss organic food as being too expensive so the theme of this year’s festival was “Eating fresh organic food on a budget”.

The festival was centred around indoor and outdoor organic markets with over 150 stalls offering a huge range of organic food and drink. This year there were two new additions to the festival – an Organic Health, Beauty and Textiles market offering everything from shampoo to shirts; and the Wild Harvest Pavilion which featured an array of foods gathered beyond the farm, such as line-caught fish, wild mushrooms and game. There was also an organic bar.

For my demonstration I chose a large organic free-range chicken which cost £13 ( €18 approx). My challenge was to produce four meals out of one chicken. I showed the audience how to joint and use every scrap, I used the carcass and giblets for stock, the chicken liver for pate to serve with a tomato salad on bruschetta, the chicken breast was butterflied, pan grilled and served with rustic roast potatoes and a bunch of vine-ripened cherry tomatoes.

The inner fillet was used for Thai Chicken and Galangal Soup. The legs were poached gently in Chicken Stock flavoured with vegetables and then sliced and made into a gratin of chicken with mushrooms and broccoli. The succulent thigh meat was used for a Thai Red Curry to serve with a big bowl of fluffy rice

I cut the tasty chicken skin into squares, spread out on a wire rack and cooked gently in a very low oven until the rendered out. It was irresistibly crisp and crunchy, great served with sweet chilli or plum sauce to dip or crumbled over a green salad.

The chicken wings were marinated in sweet chilli and soy sauce and sprinkled with toasted sesame seeds. 

I could have made a risotto from the chicken stock and served with with a Tuscan chicken liver sauce – gutsy and delicious laced with fresh sage., altogether 7 dishes from 1 chicken. 

Hugh Fearnley Whittingstall did a demonstration on using the cheaper and under-rated cuts of meat.

Fans of Hugh’s might like to know that he will be teaching a class at the Ballymaloe Cookery School on 22nd October 2005.

We have just compiled our new season’s schedule which has been posted on the website www.cookingisfun.ie 

Crispy Chicken Skin with Plum or Sweet Chilli Sauce

This recipe is only worth doing with a superb chicken. We use Dan Aherne’s free-range organic chickens from Castledermond that are sold at the Middleton Farmers’ Market

Skin from a free-range, organic chicken
Sea salt
Plum or Sweet Chilli Sauce

Cut the skin into pieces about 2 by 11/2 inch. The size is not crucial but if the pieces are reasonably even they will be more manageable to cook later. Preheat the oven to 50Oc. Spread the pieces of chicken skin upwards on a wire cooling rack. Put the rack on a baking tray. Cook long and slowly or until the skin is crisp and the fat has rendered out. Sprinkle with sea salt. Serve on individual plates with a little bowl of plum or sweet chilli sauce to dip

Red Thai Chicken Curry

6 boneless breasts cut into bite size pieces.
1 tablespoon Red Thai curry paste either from a jar or home made
1 can coconut milk or made up from powder, separated into thick and thin
6 kafir lime leaves, roughly torn
20 Basil leaves, torn
1 tablespoon Nam pla
Red chilli pepper, deseeded and finely sliced

Put the thick milk and curry paste into a heavy pan and fry until oil runs and the mixture smells cooked. Add the chicken pieces and fry for a few minutes. Add the rest of the milk, kafir leaves, torn basil leaves and Nam pla. Cook for a further 10-15 minutes. Add chilli and serve with extra chopped basil on top. 

Note: Stir fry shredded cabbage in oil and garlic for a few minutes. Pour over 1 tablespoon Nam pla and serve with Thai chicken curry.

Risotto with chicken Liver Sauce

The rice dishes of the Veneto region are famous. Rice was introduced there by the Arabs and many varieties of short-grain rice still grow in the marsh lands around the river Po.

In Venice, risotto is made almost liquid, its great quality is its immense versatility. The Veneto is richer in vegetables than any other area in Italy so all sorts of vegetables and combinations of vegetables are included in the dish as well as herbs, poultry, game, chicken livers or shellfish. There is even a risotto made with squid ink and another with pine kernels and raisins which is actually a legacy of the Arabs.
Serves 6

2-3 pints (1 - 1.3L) broth
or chicken stock
1 oz (30g) butter
1 onion, finely chopped
2 tablesp. olive oil
14 ozs (400g) Carnaroli or arboria rice
1 oz (30g) butter
2 ozs (55g) freshly grated Parmesan (Parmigiano Reggiano is best)
Sea salt

First bring the broth or stock to the boil, turn down the heat and keep it simmering. Melt the butter in a heavy bottomed saucepan with the oil, add the onion and sweat over a gentle heat for 4-5 minutes, until soft but not coloured. Add the rice and stir until well coated (so far the technique is the same as for a pilaff and this is where people become confused). Cook for a minute or so and then add 3 pint (150 ml/) of the simmering broth, stir continuously and as soon as the liquid is absorbed add another 3 pint (150 ml) of broth. Continue to cook, stirring continuously. The heat should be brisk, but on the other hand if its too hot the rice will be soft outside but still chewy inside. If its too slow, the rice will be gluey. Its difficult to know which is worse, so the trick is to regulate the heat so that the rice bubbles continuously. The risotto should take about 25-30 minutes to cook. 

When it is cooking for about 20 minutes, add the broth about 4 tablespoons at a time. I use a small ladle. Watch it very carefully from there on. The risotto is done when the rice is cooked but is still ever so slightly 'al dente'. It should be soft and creamy and quite loose, rather than thick. The moment you are happy with the texture, stir in the remaining butter and Parmesan cheese, taste and add more salt if necessary. Pour into a hot serving dish and fill the centre with Chicken Liver Sauce.

Risotto does not benefit from hanging around.

Marcella Hazan’s Chicken Liver Sauce

Serves 4

225g fresh chicken livers
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
30g (1oz) butter
55g (12oz) diced pancetta, or prosciutto ( I use unsmoked streaky bacon)
2 tablespoons chopped shallot or onion
quarter clove garlic, peeled and finely chopped
one and a half teaspoons of sage
110g (3lb) minced lean beef
6-8 twists freshly ground pepper
1 teaspoon concentrated tomato puree, dissolved in 4 tablespoons dry white vermouth

To serve
freshly grated Parmesan cheese (Parmigiano Reggiano is best)

Wash the chicken livers, trim off any fat or traces of green and cut them into 3 or 4 pieces. Dry thoroughly on kitchen paper.

Heat the oil in a small saucepan, add the diced streaky bacon and fry gently until it begins to crisp, then remove to a plate. Add the butter and saute the onions over a medium heat until transluscent, add the garlic, stir 2 or 3 times, add back in the bacon and the sage leaves, then add the minced meat, crumbling it with a fork, and cook until it has lost its red raw colour. Season with salt and freshly ground pepper, turn the heat up to medium high and add the chicken livers. Stir and cook until they have lost their raw colour, add the tomato puree and vermouth and cook for 8-10 minutes. Taste.
Delicious served with risotto, noodles or pasta eg pappardelle

Yoghurt with Apple Blossom, Honey and Toasted Hazelnuts 
We have just two beehives down at the end of the orchard. Some years if the weather is inclement we get very few sections but this year ‘my bees’ produced twice the ‘national average’, I was proud as punch. Although the orchard is five acres of mixed Worcester Permain, Bramley Seedling and Grenadier. I don’t suppose the honey is totally Apple Blossom but it must be predominantly so - in any case it tastes wonderful. In Autumn we’re fortunate to be able to gather our own Hazelnuts from the nut walk planted by Lydia Strangman at the beginning of the century.
Serves 1

About a tablespoon or toasted sweet tasting hazelnuts 
Best quality natural yoghurt 
Apple blossom honey or strongly flavoured local Irish honey - 2 tablespoons approx.

To toast hazelnuts: Preheat the oven to 200ºC/400ºF/regulo 6. Put the hazelnuts onto a baking tray and pop into the oven for 8-10 minutes until the skins loosen. Remove from the oven and as soon as they are cool enough to handle, rub off the thin papery skins (I usually put them into a tea towel, gather up the edges like a pouch, rub the towel against the nuts for a minute or so and ‘hey presto’ virtually all the skins come off in one go. If the nuts are still very pale, put them back into the oven for a few more minutes until pale golden and crisp. Slice thickly.

Just before serving spoon a generous portion of chilled natural yoghurt onto a cold plate, drizzle generously with really good honey and sprinkle with freshly sliced toasted hazelnuts. Eat immediately.


Foolproof Food

Casserole Roast Chicken with Autumn Herbs

Serves 4-6

1 chicken (3½ lbs (1.575kg) free range if possible
1 oz (30g) butter
4-6 teasp. chopped fresh herbs eg. Parsley, Thyme, Tarragon, Chervil, Chives, Marjoram
¼ pint (150ml) light cream
¼ pint (150ml) home-made chicken stock
*Roux, optional
1-2 tablespoons freshly chopped herbs
1 oval casserole
Remove the wish bone and keep for the stock.

Season the cavity of the chicken with salt and freshly ground pepper and stuff a sprig of tarragon inside. Chop the remaining tarragon and mix with two-thirds of the butter. Smear the remaining butter over the breast of the chicken, place breast side down in a casserole and allow it to brown over a gentle heat. Turn the chicken breast-side up and smear the tarragon butter over the breast and legs. Season with salt and freshly ground pepper. Cover the casserole and cook in a moderate oven for 13-12 hours.

(To test if the chicken is cooked, pierce the flesh between the breast and thigh. This is the last place to cook, so if there is no trace of pink here and if the juices are clear the chicken is certainly cooked.) Remove to a carving dish and allow to rest for 10-15 minutes before carving. 

Spoon the surplus fat from the juices, add a little freshly chopped tarragon, add in the cream and stock if using* boil up the sauce until it thickens slightly. Alternatively bring the liquid to the boil, whisk in just enough roux to thicken the sauce to a light coating consistency. Taste and correct seasoning.
Carve the chicken into 4 or 6 helpings, each person should have a portion of white and brown meat. Arrange on a serving dish, nap with the sauce and serve.
* Note: Some chickens yield less juice than others. If you need more sauce, add a little home made chicken stock with the cream. If the sauce is thickened with roux this dish can be reheated.
* This dish is also delicious without cream just made with chicken juices, stock and fresh herbs.

Hot Tips

Ummera Smoked Fish from Timoleague, Co Cork was respresented at the Organic Food awards – Tel 023-46644 for stockists
Dan Aherne sells free range organic chickens at Midleton Farmers Market every Saturday morning.
Forthcoming Slow Food events – Tastings in Temple Bar 2 October.
Fungus Foraging in Fingal – 10 October. www.slowfoodireland.com  
Venison Farm Direct – their stall is a familiar sight at several markets – this healthy low fat meat can be ordered from their website and confirmed by phone with credit card. Check out the website. www.venisonfarmdirect.ie   
Valvona & Crolla – this world renowned Edinburgh Italian delicatessen and wine merchant has won Britain’s most prestigious independent cheese retailing award - the Dairy Crest and Grocer magazine Best Independent Cheese retailer in the UK, in the same week as it celebrates its 70th anniversary. Only days before Valvona & Crolla was also voted the Scottish Wine Merchant of the Year. 19 Elm Row, Edinburgh, EH7 4AA Tel 0131 556 6066

Another convivial Slow food event – I’ve just had the best fun wending my way slowly but surely up to the top of Lough Ine Hill – my daughter and my well-toned friend from boarding school powered their way ahead, I adopted a more leisurely pace, traversing backwards and forwards up the steep slopes under the mossy trees, stopping regularly to admire the breathtakingly beautiful view over the lake.

This was the annual Slow Food Picnic so I was retracing the steps of Edith Somerville and Violet Martin Ross, who brought a picnic to Lough Ine on the last Sunday in August every year. I wonder if they were interested in wild mushrooms or did they scramble among the wild bilberry bushes in their long skirts to collect the tiny, wild intensively flavoured little berries.
When we eventually reached the top the view was spectacular. The plateau was covered with exuberantly blooming heather. We sat on rounded stones and tucked into Clodagh McKenna’s yummy picnics – Our reward for huffing and puffing our way to the top.

There was a choice of 4 picnics –

– Wild Smoked Fish Picnic – A plate of Smoked Wild Fish with Arbutus Irish Soda Bread, and Homemade Mayonnaise. Organic Leaves , Desmond, and Balsamic Vinegar Salad. Glenilen Summer Fruit Cheesecake and a 1/4 bottle of Sauvignon.

West Cork Cheese Picnic – West Cork Cheese Plate which included Durrus, Gubbeen, Cais Dubh (from Fermoy) and Hegarty’s Cheddar, with Fresh Arbutus White Yeast Bread. Rosscarberry Organic Leaves , Desmond, and Balsamic Vinegar Salad. Richard Graham- Leigh’s Franzipane and a 1/4 bottle Sauvignon.

Pate and Charcuterie Picnic – Clodagh’s Chicken Liver Pate and a selection of Frank Krawczyk and Fingal Fergusons Salami’s with Cucumber Pickle on Abrbutus Foccacia Bread. Organic Leaves , Desmond, and Balsamic Vinegar Salad. Glenilen Raspberry Mousse and a 1/4 bottle of Merlot.

Salads Picnic – A Selection of various seasonal salads with Fresh Arbutus Brown Yeast Bread. Joe Hegarty’s Chocolate Cake. A 1/4 bottle of Merlot.

Febvre who sponsor Slow food Ireland had supplied a bottle of Merlot or Sauvignon for each picnic.

Civilised people squabbled over the delicious Glen Ilen cheesecakes.

My smoked fish picnic included a piece of Wild Ummera smoked salmon (a Slow Food Presidia food), a fillet of Frank Hederman’s smoked mackerel and a chunk of succulent smoked eel. There were two generous slices of Arbutus bread, a little pat of Glen Ilen butter and a bottle of Merlot . A further rummage in my bag revealed a Victoria plum and a little golden Mirelle plum – a feast. My daughter was tucking into the local farmhouse cheese picnic.

For those of you who are interested in the Slow Food ethos, log into Slow Food Ireland website www.slowfoodireland.com or Slow Food International. www.slowfood.com

You’ll read all about the huge Slow Food Fair in Turin in October. This biannual event is the biggest artisan Food and Wine Fair in the world. It is held in the Lingotto building in Turin, which was the old Fiat factory. www.slowfood.it

This year Slow Food will bring 5,000 farmers, gardeners and artisan food producers together for an event called the Terra Madre. The aim is to link up people from all over the globe so they can share their knowledge and discuss how to overcome obstacles and deal with the ever increasing burden of regulations, many of which are totally disproportionate to the risk involved.

There is a contingent of 80 people going from Ireland including representatives from the following Food Communities – Irish raw cow’s milk cheese makers, Kerry Cow Breeders, Dublin food producers and distributors, Kilrush Farmers market, Irish bakers, Irish Seedsavers, Irish Smoked Wild Atlantic Salmon, Temple Bar Food Market, North Kerry organic farmers, Cork food community, Dublin food community, Ballymaloe food community, Galway food community, Organic Growers and Breeders from the West of Ireland, GM-free Ireland network, Tipperary food community. For more details contact Fiona Corbett Fiona@sheridanscheesemongers.com

The Salone del Gusto is open to the public, last time over 138,000 people (half of them from outside Italy) visited during 5 day period and 21,000 visited the Taste Workshops.

It is a truly amazing event for food lovers with a multitude of tastings of everything from cured meats, smoked fish, farmhouse cheese, olive oils, balsamic vinegar, chocolate, pickles, heirloom varieties, rare breeds, breads, biscuits, cakes and of course wonderful wine – a feast for the senses. If you haven’t already taken a holiday this summer perhaps you might want to combine a trip to Piedmont an area famed for its food and strong gutsy wines, eg Barola and Barbaresca, with a visit to the Salone del Gusto, the biggest artisan food fair.

For information on your nearest Slow Food Convivium telephone 023 52977 or email: info@slowfoodireland.com

Apple, Walnut and Cinnamon Tart

A yummy pud to share with family and friends. Pecans and hazelnuts are also delicious.

Serves 8-10

8oz (225g) self raising flour
½ teasp. baking powder
3oz (75g) butter
5oz (150g) castor sugar
freshly grated zest from ½ lemon or lime
1 free range egg
5 fl.ozs (150ml) milk

Topping:

18ozs (500g) cooking apples – we use Grenadier or Bramley Seedling
1oz (25g) butter, melted
1oz (25g) chopped walnuts or pecans
2oz (50g) granulated sugar
1 teasp. freshly ground cinnamon
1 rectangular tin 30x20x2.5cm (12x8x1 inch)

Line the tin with parchment paper (Bakewell)
Preheat the oven to 180C/ 350F/ gas 4

Sieve the flour and baking powder in a wide bowl, cut the butter into cubes, toss in the flour. Rub in the butter until it resembles coarse breadcrumbs. Add the castor sugar and freshly grated lemon or lime rind.

Whisk the egg and milk together. Make a well in the centre of the dry ingredients, add the liquid and mix well with a wooden spoon. The mixture should be soft and smooth.
Spoon the mixture into the lined tin and spread evenly.

Brush the top with melted butter, arrange the apple slices in overlapping layers. Sprinkle the roughly chopped walnuts or pecans evenly over the top. Mix the cinnamon with the sugar and sprinkle evenly over the entire surface.
Bake for 40 minutes approx. or until puffed and golden. Remove from the tin and cool on a wire rack.
Serve with softly whipped cream or crème fraiche.

Variations; substitute mixed spice for cinnamon.

Apple Amber Tart

This is one of the delicious apple puddings that our mothers used to make.

Serves 6

Short Crust Pastry made with
4 ozs (110g) plain white flour
2-3 ozs (55-85g) butter
pinch of salt
cold water

Filling
3 or 4 cooking apples, Bramley Seedling or Grenadier
grated rind of half a lemon
sugar to sweeten
1 oz (30g) butter
2 egg yolks
Meringue
2 egg whites
4 ozs (110g) castor sugar
Enamel or pyrex plate 8 inch (20.5cm) diameter.
Preheat the oven to 200F (100C/gas ½)

Make the shortcrust pastry in the usual way, line the tart plate and bake blind. 

Peel, core and slice the apples. Put them into a saucepan with the butter and grated rind of lemon and cook until reduced to a pulp. Beat until smooth with a wooden spoon.
Cream the yolks of eggs and sugar, pour the apple mixture on to them, mix well and pour into the pastry case.
Beat the whites of eggs until stiff, fold in the castor sugar and pile roughly on top of the apple mixture. Put into a cool oven until the meringue is set and lightly browned, about 30 minutes. 

Penne with Tomatoes, West Cork Chorizo and Desmond Cheese

Serves 6

1lb (450g) penne
7 pints (4 litres) water
1 tablesp. salt
8 ozs (225g) Gubbeen Chorizo or Frank Krawczyk’s West Cork salami
1 oz (30g) butter
1 teaspoon fresh rosemary, finely chopped
12 lb (675g) fresh ripe tomatoes, peeled, seeded and cut into 2 inch (1cm) dice or 12 tins tomatoes, chopped
Salt, freshly ground pepper and sugar
Pinch of crushed chillies
8 fl ozs (230 ml) light cream
2 tablespoons flat parsley, finely chopped
4 tablespoons freshly grated Desmond or Gabriel cheese 
Lots of snipped flat parsley

Bring 7 pints (4L) of water to the boil in a large saucepan over a high heat. 

Melt the butter in a large sauté pan, add the chopped rosemary and diced tomatoes. Season with salt, freshly ground pepper and sugar. Cook until the tomatoes have just begun to soften into a sauce, about 5 minutes approx. 
When the water for the pasta is boiling fast, add 1 tablespoon salt and the pasta. Stir well.
Slice the chorizo sausage or salami into ¼ inch rounds, add to the pan with the crushed chillies, season lightly with salt (be careful not to overdo the salt as the sausage may be somewhat salty). Add the cream and chopped parsley, cook, stirring frequently until the cream has reduced by about half. Remove the pan from the heat and set aside.

When the pasta is cooked (it should be 'al dente'), drain and toss with the sauce, add the grated Parmesan. Toss again, check the seasoning. Sprinkle with flat parsley and serve at once. 

Fresh and Smoked Salmon Pate

This is a perfect way to use up some left over cooked salmon the texture of this pate should resemble that of pork rillettes, coarse and stringy, not smooth.

Serves 8

30g (1oz) butter 
28ml (2fl oz) water
170g (6oz) freshly cooked salmon
170g (6oz) smoked salmon
170g (6oz) softened butter
salt and freshly ground pepper
freshly grated nutmeg
freshly squeezed lemon juice to taste
clarified butter – see below

Melt 30g (1oz) butter in a small saucepan, add the smoked salmon and 1 tablespoon of water. Cover and cook for 3-4 minutes or until it no longer looks opaque. Allow it to get quite cold.
Cream the butter in a bowl. With two forks, shred the fresh and smoked salmon and mix well together. Add to the soft butter still using a fork (do not use a food processor). Season with salt, pepper and freshly grated nutmeg. Taste and add freshly squeezed lemon juice as necessary.
Serve in individual pots or in a pottery terrine. Cover with a layer of clarified butter. Serve with hot toast or hot crusty white bread. 

Note: This pate will keep perfectly in the refrigerator for 5 or 6 days provided it are sealed with clarified butter.

Clarified Butter

Melt 8 ozs (225g) butter gently in a saucepan or in the oven. Allow it to stand for a few minutes, then spoon the crusty white layer of salt particles off the top of the melted butter. Underneath this crust there is clear liquid butter which is called clarified butter. The milky liquid at the bottom can be discarded or used in a white sauce.
Clarified butter is excellent for cooking because it can withstand a higher temperature when the salt and milk particles are removed. It will keep covered in a refrigerator for several weeks.

Baked Raspberry and Passion Fruit Cheesecake

Base

2 egg whites
4 oz (110g) granulated sugar
7 oz (200g) desiccated coconut

Filling

8 oz (225g) mascarpone
8 oz (225g) ricotta cheese
4 fluid oz (120ml) crème fraiche
3 eggs, preferably free range
7 oz (200g) castor sugar
1 heaped tablespoon corn flour mixed with 2 tablespoon water
1 tablespoon finely grated lemon rind
3 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
8 oz (225g) raspberries
3-5 passion fruit

9" springform cake tin

Preheat the oven to 150°C/300°F/ regulo 3

To make the Base

Lightly oil the base and sides of the springform tin with a little sunflower oil. Cut out a disc of silicone paper to line the base of the tin. Place the egg whites, sugar and coconut into a bowl and mix well together to combine. Press the mixture into the oiled and lined springform tin. Bake in the oven for approximately 15-20 minutes until lightly golden on the top. Allow to cool.

To make the Filling

Either using an electrical mixer or preferably a food processor, combine the mascarpone, ricotta, crème fraiche, eggs, castor sugar, corn flour (and water), lemon rind and lemon juice. Mix or process the filling for a few seconds until smooth. 
Remove the pulp from the passion fruit and stir through the cheesecake mixture with half of the raspberries. Pour the mixture into the springform tin and scatter the remaining raspberries on top. Bake in a preheated oven for approximately 45-50 minutes. The cheesecake should be set around the outside but should still be slightly wobbly in the centre. Allow to cool in the tin, and then refrigerate until the cheesecake is completely cold and set – preferably overnight. Carefully remove from the tin and serve with softly whipped cream.

Baked Blueberry Cheesecake
This cheesecake is also utterly “yummy” using blueberries. Leave out the passion fruit and raspberries. Follow previous method using 8-10 oz blueberries.

Foolproof Food

Blackberry and Apple Fool
Serves 4-5 approx.

11-17 ozs (310-475g) blackberries
9 ozs (225g) very dry apple puree
4 ozs (110g) sugar
8 fl ozs (250ml) softly whipped cream

Make a dry puree by cooking apples in 1 or 2 tablespoons of water on a low heat. Liquidise or sieve and sweeten to taste while still hot. Puree raw blackberries and add them with the softly whipped cream to the apple puree.

Hot Tips

Every Step Counts – Small Changes Make the Difference – Launch of national public awareness campaign to tackle the issues of overweight and obesity in Ireland the Health Promotion Unit. www.healthysteps.ie  www.healthpromotion.ie  
To coincide with this campaign both the Irish Heart Foundation and Bord Bia are running healthy eating campaigns during September and October.

Open Apple Day on Saturday 25th September and Organic Food Fair on Sunday 26th at the Organic Centre, Rosinver, Co Leitrim - www.theorganiccentre.ie  
Tel 071-98 54338

Cork Free Choice Consumer Group – Next meeting Thursday 30th September at 7.30pm, Crawford Gallery Café - Food, Gardening and Nature for the Next Generation – through our schools – Speakers include – Mark Boyden of Streamscapes, Marion O’Callaghan, primary school teacher.

Youghal Through the Ages – Heritage Week - September 25-October 3rd - Programme will include An Open Air Market at Barry’s Lane in Youghal town at 10.00am on Saturday 2nd October. Tel 024-20170 – Youghal Chamber of Tourism and Commerce, tourism@youghalchamber.ie  www.youghalchamber.ie

This is a fantastic year for fruit – the best for maybe 10 years. In the orchard the trees are groaning with fruit, there’s a huge crop of apples and plums and although the pears are not quite as abundant there’s still a terrific crop.

We picked our first Beauty of Bath a few weeks ago, this variety more than any other reminds me of my childhood. Almost every family had a few apple trees, as children we knew exactly where the best apples were and where to clamber over the wall into our neighbour’s orchard. My first bite of that bittersweet apple with its red and yellow speckled skin brought memories flooding back.

Grenadier is the earliest cooker to ripen. We have already had some grenadier apple sauce with some of our oven succulent roast pork. The pigs are Saddleback and Tamworth crossed with red Duroc for good measure. The flavour of the meat from these happy lazy pigs is sublime. These breeds have a decent layer of fat, which renders out to baste the meat while the skin crisps into the most irresistible crackling. The pigs adore snuffling around under the apple trees to find wind falls – we joke that they then come with built in apple sauce! Plum sauce is also delicious with pork, duck, even a goose – in fact now is the time to order a plump goose for Michaelmas and have a Thanksgiving feast.

But what to do with the surplus, I’m always desperate to store some Brambly apples for winter tarts and pies. This year I have plans to spread them out in a single layer on fruit trays in a cool shed. We’ll stack the recycled boxes so the air can circulate. I’m racking my brains to try to remember how it was done years ago “in life before electricity”. Perhaps some of the readers can share their tips with me. I certainly remember our old gardener Pad digging a long shallow pit to store cooking apples. I must have been tiny, 3 or 4 when I helped him to select unblemished cooking apples. I seem to recollect that the pit was lined with straw and then covered with a good layer of soil then covered with an old mat

Nowadays, almost everyone has a freezer, so make as much stewed or apple puree as you can manage. It can be used not only for sauce but also in crumbles and tarts in winter. The flavour is immeasurably better than the under mature Brambly available in the shops. Have you noticed how they don’t break like the homegrown apples that are picked when they are properly matured. Apple juice is another option – you’ll need to buy a centrifuge, Krups, Magimix, Kenwood and other manufacturers have models worth investing in (you can also use the centrifuge to make a variety of other fruit and vegetable juices.

Chutneys are another delicious way of preserving surplus fruit and vegetables, there are a myriad of recipes, try this Spicy Apple Chutney and then start to experiment yourself.

Plums, greengages or pears poached in a sweet geranium or even a simple syrup is completely delicious and freeze brilliantly – a terrific standby pudding to have in the freezer. Store them in smallish plastic tubs so that they can be defrosted easily. Meanwhile feast on as many apples, plums and pears as you can for breakfast, lunch and dinner and build up your stock of vitamins to guard against winter colds – remember to old adage “An apple a day keeps the doctor away”.

Spicy Apple Chutney

makes 2.7-3.6kg (6-8 lb) pots

In season: autumn
1.8kg (4 lb) cooking apples, we use Bramley Seedling or Grenadier
450g (1 lb) onion, peeled and finely chopped 
450g (1 lb) sultanas
900g (2 lb) granulated sugar
1.1L (2 pint) white malt vinegar
30g (1oz) salt
2 teaspoons mustard seed (white)
1 teaspoon ground ginger
2 teaspoon curry powder
2 teaspoon cinnamon
2-1 level teaspoon ground cloves 

Peel and cut the apples into quarters, remove the core and chop finely (¼ inch approx.)
Put all the ingredients into a wide stainless steel saucepan. Simmer gently until soft and pulpy, stirring frequently. Cook, uncovered for approx. 12-2 hours until very thick and dark brown. (should be reduced to about 1 third of the original volume). Allow to mature for about two weeks before using. Wine vinegar is less fierce bit obviously more expensive.

Plum Sauce

Delicious with duck breast or wild duck. This also freezes brilliantly.

450g (1lb) blood plums 
225g (½lb) sugar
2.5cm (1inch) piece cinnamon stick
2 cloves
2 tablespoons redcurrant jelly 
100ml (4fl oz) port
25g (1oz) butter

Put the plums into a stainless steel saucepan with the sugar, cloves, cinnamon, one tablespoon of water and the butter, cook slowly until reduced to a pulp.
Push the fruit through a fine sieve and return the puree to a clean saucepan. Add the redcurrant jelly and port, bring to the boil and simmer for a few minutes. The sauce may be used either hot or cold. Keeps well

Compote of Plums – Poached Plums

Poach the plums whole, they’ll taste better but quite apart from that you’ll have the fun of playing - He loves me - he loves me not! You could just fix it by making sure you take an uneven number!

Serves 4

400g (14ozs/2 cups) sugar
450ml (16 fl ozs/2 cups) cold water
900g (2 lbs) fresh Plums, Victoria, Opal or those dark Italian plums that come into the shops in autumn

Put the sugar and water into a saucepan, bring slowly to the boil. Tip in the plums and poach, cover the saucepan and simmer until they begin to burst. Turn into a bowl, serve warm with a blob of softly whipped cream. Divine!

*The poached plums keep very well in the fridge and are delicious for breakfast without the cream! 
Note: If plums are sweet use less sugar in syrup

Normandy Pear or Apple Tart

Serves 8 - 10

This is certainly one of the most impressive of the French tarts, it is wonderful served warm but is also very good cold and it keeps for several days. Splash in a little kirsch if you are using pears and calvados if you are using dessert apples. 

4-5 ripe pears or apples, poached 

Shortcrust Pastry
7 ozs (200g/scant 1 ½cups) flour
4 ozs (110g/1 stick) cold butter
1 egg yolk, preferably free range
pinch of salt
3-4 tablesp. (4-5 American tablesp.) cold water

Frangipane
3 ½ ozs (100g/scant 1 stick) butter
3 ½ozs (100g/½ cup) castor sugar
1 egg, beaten 
1 egg yolk, preferably free range
2 tablesp. (2 American tablesp. + 2 teasp.) kirsch if using pears or calvados if using apples
4 ozs (110g) whole blanched almonds, ground or 2 ground almonds and 2 blanched and ground 
1 oz (30g/2 American tablesp.) flour

To Finish
¼ pint (150ml/generous ½cup) approx. apricot glaze 

9 inch (23cm) diameter flan ring or tart tin with a removable base 

First make the shortcrust pastry,
Sieve the flour and salt into a bowl, cut the butter into cubes and rub into the flour with the fingertips. Keep everything as cool as possible; if the fat is allowed to melt the finished pastry may be tough. When the mixture looks like coarse breadcrumbs, stop. Whisk the egg yolk and add the water. 
Take a fork or knife (whichever you feel most comfortable with) and add just enough liquid to bring the pastry together, then discard the fork and collect the pastry into a ball with your hands. This way you can judge more accurately if you need a few more drops of liquid. Although slightly damp pastry is easier to handle and roll out, the resulting crust can be tough and may well shrink out of shape as the water evaporates in the oven. The drier and more difficult-to-handle pastry will give a crisper shorter crust.
Cover the pastry with cling film and leave to rest in the fridge for a minimum of 15 minutes or better still 30 minutes. This will make the pastry much less elastic and easier to roll.
Next poach the pears and allow to get cold. Preheat the oven to 180C/350F/regulo 4. Roll out the pastry, line the tart tin with it, prick lightly with a fork, flute the edges and chill again until firm. Bake blind for 15-20 minutes.

Next make the frangipane. Cream the butter, gradually beat in the sugar and continue beating until the mixture is light and soft. Gradually add the egg and egg yolk, beating well after each addition. Stir in the ground almonds and flour and then add the kirsch or calvados. Pour the frangipane into the pastry case spreading it evenly. Drain the pears well and when they are cold cut them crosswise into very thin slices, then lift the sliced pears intact and arrange them around the tart on the frangipane pointed ends towards the centre. Arrange a final half pear in the centre.
Turn the oven up to 200C/400F/regulo 6. Bake the tart for 10-15 minutes until the pastry is beginning to brown. Turn down the oven heat to moderate 180C/350F/regulo 4 and continue cooking for 15-20 minutes or until the fruit is tender and the frangipane is set in the centre and nicely golden.
Meanwhile make the apricot glaze. When the tart is fully cooked, paint generously with apricot glaze, remove from the tin and serve warm or cold with a bowl of softly whipped cream.

Apricot Glaze

Apricot glaze is invaluable to have made up in your fridge. It would always be at hand in a pastry kitchen and is used to glaze tarts which contain green or orange or white fruit, eg. kiwi, grapes, greengages, peaches, oranges, apples or pears. It will turn you into a professional at the flick of a pastry brush!

In a small saucepan (not aluminium), melt 12 ozs (350g/1 cup) apricot jam with the juice of 3 lemon, water - or enough to make a glaze that can be poured. Push the hot jam through a nylon sieve and store in an airtight jar. Reheat the glaze to melt it before using. The quantities given above make a generous ½ pint (300ml/1 ¼ cups) glaze.

Poached Pears

6 pears
½lb (225g/1 generous cup) sugar
1 pint (600ml/2 ½ cups) water
a couple of strips of lemon peel and juice of 2 lemon

Bring the sugar and water to the boil with the strips of lemon peel in a non-reactive saucepan. Meanwhile peel the pears thinly, cut in half and core carefully with a melon baller or a teaspoon, keeping a good shape. Put the pear halves into the syrup, cut side uppermost, add the lemon juice, cover with a paper lid and the lid of the saucepan. Bring to the boil and simmer until the pears are just soft - the tip of a knife or skewer should go through without resistance. Turn into a serving bowl, chill and serve on their own or with homemade vanilla ice cream and chocolate sauce, in which case you have Poires Belles Helene - one of Escoffier's great classics.

Foolproof Food

Bramley Apple Sauce

The trick with Apple Sauce is to cook it covered on a low heat with very little water.

If you have a surplus of apples, why not make more and freeze it in small containers for another occasion. Great served with roast pork, duck goose…..

Serves 10 approx.

1 lb (450g) cooking apples, e.g. Bramley Seedling or Grenadier
1-2 dessertsp. (2 - 1 American tablesp.) water
2 ozs (55g/scant 3 cup) sugar, depending on how tart the apples are

Peel, quarter and core the apples. Cut the pieces into two and put in a stainless steel or cast iron saucepan with sugar and water. Cover and put over a low heat. As soon as the apple has broken down, beat into a puree, stir and taste for sweetness. Serve warm. 

Note: Apple Sauce freezes perfectly, so make more than you need and freeze in tiny, plastic cartons. It is also a good way to use up windfalls.

Hot Tips

West Cork as a region has become synonymous with a lifestyle that embraces the pleasures of life whilst at the same time pursuing an ethnic, excellence, integrity and innovation writes Ivan McCutcheon of West Cork Leader Co-op in his introduction to a taste of West Cork. 

The guide has been developed in conjunction with Fáilte Ireland as part of a comprehensive training programme for local tourism establishments. Chef Rory Morahan who honed his skills in some of the worlds finest kitchens including the Ritz and Dochester in London and the George V in Paris created the recipes using local produce from the West Cork area where many of the most passionate artisan food producers in the country are based.

I hugely welcome any initiative that encourages bed and breakfasts, hotels and restaurants to serve their fine local food proudly. West Cork in the vanguard of Irelands culinary revolution provides more choice than virtually any other area in the country. What a joy to find a breakfast of Macroom oatmeal, Ummera or Gubeen bacon, plump sausages from Martin Carey, Fingal Ferguson or Stauntons, traditional black and white puddings from local butchers. Mushrooms from Fran Frazier, cured meats from Frank Kraychek. Smoked fish from Ummera or Woodcock Smokery. A selection of local West Cork farmhouse cheeses, some fresh baked crusty soda bread with local butter and any one of a number of local honeys, homemade jams and marmalades.

Any West Cork establishment would be proud to highlight these and many other local foods on their menu. The publication has a list of producers, shops, activities and catering establishments and suggested prices – a terrific resource but the highlight for me are the enchanting and as ever brilliantly researched contributions on the various foods by Irelands leading food historian Regina Sexton who wrote the book “A Taste of West Cork” published by Collins press at a price of €12.95. 

If you fancy being able to drizzle everything from Balsamic vinegar to chocolate sauce over your culinary creations just like the hot chefs, look out for a squeezy sauce bottle – the kind that used to be used in less salubrious surroundings filled with brown sauce. Available for Nisbets or good kitchen shops www.nisbets.com

Remember those carefree bygone days when one always kept ‘something in the tin’, just in case some friends dropped by. In country houses the table was religiously laid for tea every afternoon at 4.30, white linen or perhaps a cut lace tablecloth, silver tea pot, delicate china cups, and a little jug of cream as well as milk.
For children in particular, afternoon tea was a serious business, I remember many such outings and the strict protocol. My brothers and sisters and I were dressed up in our finest clothes. I got to wear a smocked dress and one of my angora boleros – I had two which Mummy had painstakingly knit for me from a pattern in Women’s Weekly – one was pale green, the other a soft shade of baby pink. I adored wearing my bolero and my black patent shoes, I felt like a princess.
As we drove to the tea party Mummy would remind us of how to behave, not to speak until you were spoken to, sit quietly in the allocated chair. Start with a slice or two of bread and butter, followed by a dainty sandwich or two, then one could progress to the scones, followed by tartlets and fairy cakes or butterfly buns and a maybe a ginger or fruit cake. Finally one could indulge in a gorgeous slice of chocolate or coffee cake. Careful not to speak with one’s mouth full and it was simply unthinkable to grab or to start to eat before the hostess started. How times have changed – nowadays one could be trampled in the stampede! 
Formal and elaborate tea parties such as the one I’ve just described are rare nowadays but I still subscribe to the ‘must have something delicious and dainty in the tin to tempt and comfort and share with family and friends.’ 
I love to bake and I know I’m not alone because any time my column includes cakes and bikkies, I get a terrific reaction so here are a few tempting treats to try.

Devotees of Sue Lawrence will be thrilled to hear that she has published yet another tempting book ‘Sue Lawrence’s Book of Baking’ – from Agas to conventional ovens she covers it all and her chapters deal with a range of goodies from breads and savoury pies, pasties and tarts to traditional cakes and modern ones too. For the adventurous cook who has been exposed to other cultures there are international dishes from countries like America, with their delicious cornbread and New York Cheesecake; Argentinean Alfajores (shortbread and toffee sandwiches); Australian Lamingtons; Chilean Cheese Empanadas; Anchovy Pirozhkis from Russia; Swedish Lucia Rolls, Irish Soda Bread; Welsh Cakes and of course a few Scottish dishes like Forfar bridies and Cullen Skink bridies, shortbread and tattie scones, to name but a few, plus, all our old favourites such as scones; angel cakes; brownies, custard creams and Victoria sponge are also there.
Other chapters focus on healthy alternatives and even quick bakes for those of us who find time to be more of a challenge than baking. There’s also a chapter covering festive baking - in time for Christmas and Easter next year.

Gluten – Free Strawberry Sponge Cake

From Healthy Gluten-free Eating by Darina Allen and Rosemary Kearney

125g (4 ½ oz) butter
175g (6oz) castor sugar
3 eggs preferably free-range
110g (4oz) rice flour
50g (2oz) ground almonds
1 ½ teaspoon gluten-free baking powder
1 teaspoon xanthan gum
1 tablespoon milk

Filling
225g (8oz) sliced fresh strawberries or home-made raspberry jam
300ml (10 floz) whipped cream
Castor sugar to sprinkle

2 x 18 cm (7 inch) cake tins

Preheat the oven to 180oC/350oF/regulo 4

Grease and rice flour the two cake tins and line the base of each with a round of greaseproof paper. 
Cream the butter and gradually add the castor sugar, beat until soft and light and quite pale in colour. Add the eggs one at a time and beat well between each addition. (If the butter and the sugar are not creamed properly and if you add the eggs too fast, the mixture will curdle, resulting in a cake with a heavier texture.)
Sieve the rice flour, ground almonds, the gluten-free baking powder and xanthan gum together and stir in gradually. Mix all together lightly and add 1 tablespoon of milk to moisten.
Divide the mixture evenly between 2 tins, hollowing it slightly in the centre. Bake for 20-25 minutes or until cooked and a skewer comes out clean. Turn out onto a wire tray and allow to cool.
Sandwich together with whipped cream and sliced strawberries or homemade raspberry jam. Sprinkle with sieved castor sugar. Serve on an old fashioned plate with a doyley.

Gluten-free Chocolate and Raspberry Torte

From Healthy Gluten Free Eating by Darina Allen and Rosemary Kearney

Serves 8 – 10

This is a very rich chocolate cake and a little goes a long way!

200g (7oz) best quality dark chocolate (Lesme, Callebaut, Valrhona)
50g (2oz) butter
3 eggs, preferably free range
50g (2oz) castor sugar
110g (4oz) ground almonds
150g (5oz) raspberries
50g (2floz) cream

Preheat the oven to 180oC/350oF/gas4

Line the base of a 20cm(8”) spring - form tin with bakewell paper and brush the sides with a little melted butter, followed by a dusting of ground almonds. Place the chocolate and the butter in a pyrex bowl, over a pan of simmering water on a very gentle heat. Separate the eggs and using an electric whisk beat the egg yolks with the sugar until pale light and fluffy. When the chocolate / butter mixture has melted add to the egg yolk/sugar mixture and mix well to combine.
Stir in the cream and the ground almonds.
In a clean Pyrex bowl, beat the egg whites until they reach the stiff peak stage. Fold in the egg whites a third at a time into the chocolate mixture very gently until they are combined. 
Now, gently fold in the raspberries and pour into the lined spring - form tin. Bake in the moderate oven for approximately 25-30 minutes. The edges should be cooked but the centre should be slightly underdone.
Allow the cake to cool completely in the tin and serve a little slice with softly whipped cream and a few extra fresh raspberries.

Lemon Fudge Cake

From Sue Lawrence’s Book of Baking

Makes 24

150g (5½ oz) unsalted butter, melted
200g (7oz) condensed milk (half a regular can size)
400g (14oz) digestive biscuits, crushed
100g (3½oz) desiccated coconut
300g (10½ oz) golden icing sugar, sifted
juice of 1 large juicy lemon

Butter a 23x33cm/9x13 in Swiss Roll Tin.

Mix the melted butter and condensed milk together in a bowl and stir in the biscuits and coconut. Spread into the prepared tin and press down. Chill well for 2 hours.
Mix the sifted icing sugar with the lemon juice and carefully spread this over the biscuit base. Using a palette knife, spread very gently to cover. Chill again, then cut into bars.

Poppyseed and Lemon Muffins

From Sue Lawrence’s Book of Baking

Makes 8 American style large muffins (ideal for breakfast or brunch) or 14-16 friands (these are little buttery two-bite size cakes which Sue discovered in Sydney)

150g (5½ oz) golden caster sugar
150g (5½ oz) self-raising flour, sifted
25g (1oz) poppyseeds
grated zest and juice of 1 medium unwaxed lemon
125ml (4fl.oz) sunflower oil
2 large free-range eggs

Preheat the oven to 190C/375F/gas5. Put 8 American style muffin cases into a bun tin, or butter 14-16 mini-muffin or friand moulds.
Place the sugar, flour and poppyseeds in a bowl, then stir in the lemon zest. Make a well in the centre, then tip in the oil, eggs and lemon juice. Stir gently until combined.
Spoon into muffin cases or moulds. Bake for 15-20 minutes for the friends or mini muffins, and 25 minutes for the larger muffins.

Chocolate, Cherry and Coconut Slice
Makes 24-28 squares

450g (1lb) good quality milk chocolate (minimum 30% cocoa solids)
200g (7oz) glace cherries
4 medium free range eggs
175g (6oz) golden caster sugar
250g (9oz) desiccated coconut

Butter a 23 x 33cm (9x13in) Swiss roll tin.

Melt the chocolate in a heatproof bowl over a pan of hot water or in a microwave on medium, then pour into the base of the prepared tin. Smooth out with the back of a spoon. Allow to cool and harden.
Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 180C/350F/gas 4
Halve the cherries and place at intervals over the chocolate. Break the eggs in a bowl, then add the sugar and coconut. Stir until well combined, then carefully spoon this mixture over the cherries, taking care not to push them into one corner. Pat down gently to smooth the surface.
Bake for about 25 minutes until the coconut mixture looks golden brown and feels firm to the touch.
Leave to cool in the tin for at least 30 minutes before marking into squares, then allow to become cold. Place in the refrigerator for at least 30 minutes until completely hard, then cut and remove the squares from the tin.

Tempting though it is, do leave this in the refrigerator for the specified times, so the chocolate can fully set, after it has been baked. If you try to lever out the pieces while the chocolate is still soft, it will collapse.

Banana Cardamon Cake

2 very ripe bananas, peeled
4 free-range eggs, separated 
2 tsp natural vanilla extract
3floz/90ml sour cream 
12oz/360g plain/all-purpose flour
2 tsp. baking powder 
½ tsp. salt 
2 tsp ground cardamom 
6oz/180g butter, softened
6oz/180g dark brown sugar 
6 tbsp caster/granulated sugar

Heat the oven to 160C/325F/Gas 3. Butter a 9 ½ inch/24 
springform cake tin and line the bottom with a round of baking 
parchment. Mash the bananas and mix in the egg yolks, vanilla and 
sour, cream. Sift the flour with the baking powder, salt and; 
spice.
Beat the softened butter with the brown sugar until light and; 
creamy. Add about half the banana mixture and half the flour 
mixture to the creamed butter and (either by hand or on the lowest: 
speed of a mixer) work them all together until almost combined.
Then add the rest of the banana and flour mixtures, again being
careful not to overmix.
Put the egg whites in a large and scrupulously clean bowl an 
whisk until soft peaks form - that is, when you lift up some of the 
egg white with the whisk it forms a soft, slightly drooping peak.
Start whisking in the rest of the sugar, 1 tbsp at a time, and
whisking well after each addition until stiff and glossy. Gently fold
this meringue into the banana mixture in two batches. Spoon the cake mixture into the buttered cake tin and bake for about an hour, until a toothpick or skewer hushed into the middle of the cake comes out dry. Let the cake cool completely before unmoulding.

NOTE The cake can certainly be made the day before; when completely cooled, wrap it in cling film but don't put it in the fridge because chilling is quite simply death to cakes.

Foolproof Food

Mummy’s Sweet White Scones

Delicious served for afternoon tea with new season’s homemade raspberry jam and cream, or just buttered straight from the oven.

Makes 18-20 scones using a 72 cm (3inch) cutter

900g (2lb) plain white flour
170g (6oz) butter
3 free range eggs
pinch of salt
55g (2oz) castor sugar
3 heaped teaspoons baking powder
450ml (15floz) approx. milk to mix
For glaze:
egg wash (see below)
granulated sugar for sprinkling on top of the scones

First preheat the oven to 250C/475F/gas 9.

Sieve all the dry ingredients together in a large wide bowl. Cut the butter into cubes, toss in the flour and rub in the butter. Make a well in the centre. Whisk the eggs with the milk, add to the dry ingredients and mix to a soft dough. Turn out onto a floured board. Knead lightly, just enough to shape into a round. Roll out to about 22cm (1inch) thick and cut or stamp into scones. Put onto a baking sheet – no need to grease. Brush the tops with egg wash and dip each one in granulated sugar. Bake in a hot oven for 10-12 minutes until golden brown on top. Cool on a wire rack.
Serve split in half with home made jam and a blob of whipped cream or just butter and jam.
Egg wash:
Whisk 1 egg with a pinch of salt. This is brushed over the scones and pastry to help them to brown in the oven.

Fruit Scones

Add 110g (4oz) plump sultanas to the above mixture when the butter has been rubbed in. Continue as above.

Useful tip:
Scone mixture may be weighed up ahead - even the day before. Butter may be rubbed in but do not add raising agent and liquid until just before baking.

Hot Tips

Some New books not to miss -
Sue Lawrence’s Book of Baking – published by Headline
Not on the Label – by Felicity Lawrence
Shopped – the Shocking Power of British Supermarkets – by Joanna Blythman
Healing with Whole Foods - Asian Traditions and Modern Nutrition by Paul Pitchford, published by North Atlantic Books.

O’Connells Restaurant at Bewleys Hotel in Ballsbridge, Dublin
Have ‘gone public’ on their greater commitment to gluten-free cooking. They have retained Rosemary Kearney (co-author of Healthy-Gluten Free Eating) as Consultant.
So good news for all coeliacs visiting the hotel and restaurant.
O’Connells – Tel. 01-6473304 www.oconnellsballsbridge.com 
Bewleys Hotel – Tel 01-6681111 www.bewleyshotel.com


Griffins Garden Centre Restaurant, Dripsey, Co Cork
The restaurant at Margaret Griffin’s award-winning Garden Centre (5 minutes from Inniscarra Dam) is also committed to catering fro those on a gluten-free diet – their light lunches offer a gluten-free soup and main course, as well as gluten-free scones, rolls, tea cakes and apple tart, and trained staff are always ready to help. Tel. 021-7334286 email: griffinsgardencentre@eircom.net

We’ve just had a highly entertaining and inspirational few days here at the cookery school with the flamboyant, irreverent and completely irrepressible TV chef Antony Worrall Thompson.
It was Antony’s fourth visit to the school. Over a series of four cookery
demonstrations he cooked American, Moroccan, Asian and Mediterranean dishes, some were favourites from his restaurant menus, others came from his cookery series. Antony and his lovely wife Jay own two restaurants, the critically acclaimed Notting Grill and the Kew Grill. They also have an interest in the Angel Gastro Pub in Heytesbury in Wiltshire..
He appears regularly on television and is currently presenting Saturday Kitchen on BBC2. In Spring of 2003, much to Jay’s horror, he volunteered to participate in “I’m A Celebrity, Get Me Out of Here, on ITV. He captivated the viewing nation when he led a revolt. He came fourth and was responsible for raising € 84,000 for Save the Children. He lives in Henley-on-Thames with Jay and his two children Toby and Billie.

Over the years Antony has become more and more outspoken about food issues, and practises what he preaches by rearing his own Middlewhite pigs and growing a wide variety of organic herbs and vegetables for his restaurant. The Aberdeen Angus beef served in his restaurants and for which he has now become famous, is dry aged and hung for 28 days. 

Highly opinionated, he is regularly called on for a comment on gastronomic issues and has locked horns on many occasions with the establishment. There have been well-publicized spats with such luminaries of the culinary world as Gordon Ramsay and Giorgio Locatelli. A few years ago he showed his disdain for the Michelin by flambeeing the guide on television and as a consequence got more publicity than all the starred restaurants put together.

Readers of Antony’s autobiography RAW will be aware that his passage to culinary stardom has not exactly been smooth. Abandoned by his father, a Shakespearean actor, when he was just three, Antony was sexually abused and maltreated throughout his childhood. His extra-curricular activities at boarding school included pushing cars into the swimming pool and generally getting on the teacher’s nerves. Antony’s story very nearly came to an abrupt halt at sixteen when his face was crushed in a horrific rugby accident, which left him badly disfigured and chronically insecure. But pioneering surgery saved the day, enabling him to pursue what was to become the enduring love of his life – cooking.
After much hard graft and some close encounters of the violent gangster kind, AWT’s flamboyant style as a restaurateur soon brought him to the attention of cookery’s cognoscenti. Things didn’t always run according to plan, however – he once had to serve tinned tomato soup, tarted up with croutons and basil, to the customers in his restaurant because there wasn’t time to make his own from scratch. (They loved it.). And today Antony is to the culinary establishment what a bull is to a china shop. His no-nonsense style in the kitchen is loathed by a few, but loved by millions.

His autobiography RAW was published in 2003 but he has also written numerous cookbooks including the ABC of AWT, Supernosh, How to Buy and Cook Real Meat, Modern Bistrot Cooking, The Small and Beautiful Cookbook, Sainsbury’s Quick and Easy fish, Top 100 Recipes from the Food and Drink Series.
His most recent book ‘Healthy Eating for Diabetes’ was written when was diagnosed as being precursor to being diabetic when he was tested for Syndrome X, he volunteered for testing on the programme Food Junkies. You may also like to look out for his weekly column in the Express.
Here are some of the delicious recipes we enjoyed while he was with us.

MORROCAN CARROT FRITTERS

Serves 2-4

4 carrots, peeled and grated
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1 clove garlic, crushed
1 teaspoon ground coriander
1 teaspoon ground turmeric
half teaspoon cayenne pepper
3 tablespoons finely chopped spring onions
2 tablespoons chopped coriander
1 egg, beaten
150 ml (quarter pint) milk
140g (5oz) plain flour
sunflower oil for cooking
Greek yoghurt
Coriander leaf

1. Combine the grated carrots with all the remaining ingredients except for the oil. Mix well to combine everything together.

2. Heat the oil in a deep frying pan, when hot carefully drop spoonfuls of the mixture into the oil and cook for 2 minutes on each side. Drain on paper towel.

3. Serve with a small dollop of Greek yoghurt on each fritter and top with a coriander leaf.

NORTH AFRICAN PUMPKIN SALAD WITH GARLIC, CHILLI AND CARAWAY (antipasti)

1 lb (450g) pumpkin, roasted, peeled and mashed

1 tbsp balsamic vinegar
1 tbsp red wine vinegar
5 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
2 cloves garlic, mashed with a little salt
4 tsp harissa
1½ tsp ground caraway seeds
2 tbsp chopped coriander
2 hard-boiled eggs, peeled and quartered

1. Mix together the vinegars, oil, garlic, harissa and caraway in a bowl. Add the pumpkin and combine. Check the seasoning. Garnish with the coriander and quartered eggs.

SHALLOT TARTE TATIN

Serves 2-4

115g (4oz) unsalted butter
550g (1¼ lb) shallots, soaked in boiling water for 5 minutes, drained, peeled and trimmed
12 garlic cloves peeled
300ml (½ pint) fresh vegetable stock 
200g (7oz) sheet ready-rolled puff pastry, thawed (from a 425g/15oz packet)
2 tbsp caster sugar
1 tbsp balsamic vinegar
salt and freshly ground black pepper
fresh leaf salad, to serve

1 Heat a large frying or sauté pan. Melt 40g/1½oz of the butter in the pan, toss in the shallots and gently fry for about 10 minutes until golden, tossing occasionally. After 5 minutes add the garlic cloves. Pour in the stock and simmer for another 5-10 minutes, depending on the size of the shallots, until they are tender when pierced with a sharp knife but still holding their shape. Remove the shallots & garlic with a slotted spoon, drain well and pat dry with kitchen paper - you could use the remaining stock later for sauces or soup. Leave to shallots & garlic to cool completely.

2 Preheat the oven to 190C/375F/Gas 5; fan oven 170C from cold. Unroll the pastry and cut out a 25 cm/10 in circle, using a large plate as a template, don’t worry if some of the edges the pastry sheet fall a bit short. Transfer to a baking sheet and chill for at least 30 minutes to allow the pastry to rest.

3 Melt the knob of butter in a 23 cm/9 in ovenproof frying pan; preferably non-stick. Sprinkle over the sugar and cook for a minute or two until caramelised, Sprinkle over the vinegar, add the shallots, toss again until well coated and remove from the heat. Place the garlic in between the shallots.

4 Season generously. Top with the pastry, tucking the edges down the side of the pan. Bake for about 30 minutes or until the pastry has risen and is golden brown. Leave for a few minutes before loosening the sides with a knife and inverting on to a flat plate. Serve warm or cold, cut into slices and serve with a rocket salad.

LAMB TAGINE

Serves 4-6

1 shoulder of Lamb
1 and a half tablespoons ground ginger
2 teaspoons ground black pepper
2 teaspoons ground cinnamon
3 teaspoons ground turmeric
1½ tablespoons paprika
1 teaspoon cayenne pepper
3 garlic cloves, crushed 
2 tablespoons olive oil
450g (1lb) grated onion
175g (6oz) dried apricots, soaked in a little water 
85g (3oz) flaked almonds
55g (2oz) sultanas /raisins
1 tablespoon liquid honey
1 teaspoon saffron stamens, soaked in cold water
600ml (1 pint) tomato juice
600ml (1 pint) lamb stock 
1 x 400g (14 oz) tin tomatoes, roughly chopped
1 pickled lemon, rind chopped 
1 tablespoon olive oil
25g (1oz) coriander leaves, chopped


1. Cut the lamb into 1½ inch cubes and toss in half the ground spices and leave overnight. 
2.Brown the lamb in half the oil in a heavy casserole over a high heat. Remove and set aside. Add the remaining spices, crushed garlic and grated onion to the pan. Allow the onion to soften without browning.

3.Add the apricots and their soaking water, the almonds, raisins/sultanas, honey, saffron, tomato juice, tomatoes and lamb stock. Bring to the boil, place in a low oven and cook for approximately 1½ hours at 170°C/325°F/Gas mark 3, until the meat is tender. Remove meat and reduce the sauce over a high heat until thickened (if necessary).

4.Fry the lemon rind in the remaining olive oil for a few minutes.

5.Pour the sauce over the lamb and scatter with the lemon and coriander. Serve with jewelled couscous. 

JEWELLED COUSCOUS

Serves 4

400ml (14fl oz) chicken or vegetable stock
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 teaspoon salt
225g (8oz) couscous
finely grated rind of 1 lemon and the juice of 1/2 lemon (unwaxed)
55g (2oz) toasted flaked almonds
85g (3oz) apricots, soaked in a little water for 20 minutes, drained and chopped
55g (2oz) sultanas or raisins
3 tablespoons flat-leaf parsley, roughly chopped
2 tablespoons coriander, roughly chopped
salt and ground black pepper

1.Heat the stock in a large pan with 1 tablespoon of the olive oil and a teaspoon of salt. Bring to a simmer, remove from the heat and pour the couscous in a thin, steady stream and then stir in the lemon rind. Set aside for 2 minutes to allow the grains to swell – it should soak up all of the liquid.

2.Return the couscous to the heat and drizzle over the remaining olive oil. Cook gently for about 5 minutes, stirring with a long pronged fork to fluff up the grains, then remove from the heat.

3.Fold in almonds, apricots, sultanas/raisins, parsley and coriander, season to taste.

COOKIES AND CREAM CHEESECAKE

For the base:

150g (5oz) chocolate digestive biscuits, crushed 
80g (3oz) butter, melted but cooling

For the filling:
1 tbsp gelatine
100ml (3½fl oz) boiling water
1½ lbs (700g) cream cheese, at room temperature, cut into small pieces
225g (8oz) granulated sugar
¼ teaspoon salt
225ml/8 fl oz sour cream
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
150g (5½oz) Hob Nob biscuits, broken into small chunks
125g (4½oz) white chocolate, broken into small pieces
150g (5½oz) dark chocolate, broken into small piece 
Fresh berries, for garnish, optional


1. Mix the crushed digestive biscuits with the butter and press onto the bottom of an 8” springform tin. Transfer to refrigerator for a half hour to until set.

2. Mix the gelatine with the water, stir well and let cool.

3. To make the filling: Put the cream cheese, sugar, and salt in the large bowl of an electric stand mixer fitted with a paddle or beaters, or in a large mixing bowl. Using the stand mixer or a handheld mixer on medium speed, beat the ingredients until smooth, stopping often to scrape down the sides of the bowl and under the blades with a rubber spatula. Turn the speed to high and continue to beat until the mixture is creamy. Stop the mixer and add the sour cream, gelatine, and vanilla; beat 3 minutes longer, again stopping as necessary to scrape down the sides of the bowl and under the blades.

4. Meanwhile, melt white chocolate in a bowl set over a pan of simmering water. .

5. Stir the melted chocolate into the cream cheese mixture and continue to beat until well combined and smooth. 

6. Using the same process as point 4, repeat the process with the dark chocolate and then drizzle throughout the mixture making a ripple effect.

7. Pour half the cream cheese mixture into the springform pan. Sprinkle half the chunky chocolate biscuits over the mixture. Pour in the remaining cream cheese mixture, smooth its top with a rubber spatula, and then scatter the remaining chocolate biscuits evenly over its surface.

8. Place the cake into the fridge and leave to set for at least 2 hours, preferably overnight.

9. When ready to serve, remove the cheesecake from the refrigerator. Dip a long, sharp knife in warm water and run the knife around the inside of the springform pan to loosen the cake. Remove the outer ring. Continue to dip the knife into warm water as necessary as you cut neat wedges. To serve, place a wedge of cake on a cake plate arid garnish, if you like, with fresh berries.


Foolproof Food

Buttered Courgettes

Try this delicious simple recipe if you have a glut of courgettes in the garden.

Serves 4

1 lb (450g) courgettes, no larger than 5 inches (12.5cm) in length
1 oz (30g) butter
A dash of olive oil
Salt and freshly ground pepper
Freshly chopped parsley, dill, basil or marjoram

Top and tail the courgettes and cut them into ¼ inch (5mm) slices. Melt the butter and add a dash of oil, toss in the courgettes and coat in the butter and oil. Cook until tender, 4-5 minutes approx. Season with salt and freshly ground pepper. Turn into a hot serving dish, sprinkle with chopped herbs and serve immediately.

Hot Tips

Raw: The Autobiography – my autobiography by Antony Worrall Thompson, published by Bantam Press – a jolly good read. (Click to go to Amazon.co.uk)

A Date for your Diary – Midleton Food and Drink Festival 4-5th September 2004.

O.C.C – Otto’s Creative Catering. Otto and Hilde Kunze run their restaurant with rooms at Dunworley, Butlerstown, Bandon, Co Cork. – open for dinner Wednesday to Sunday and Sunday lunch – delicious home-grown and local organic produce in a wonderful setting - Tel 023-40461, http://www.ottoscreativecatering.com      email:ottokunze@eircom.net  

Fingal Food Fayre – Fingal Arts Centre’s new monthly Fingal Food Fayre is in Rush, Co Dublin, and is held on the last Sunday of every month. It started in May and has been a resounding success so far. As well as a wide range of organic, fresh and international foods, there is a range of family entertainment each month including food demonstrations by local chefs. Contact Vera Tyrrell 01-8437567 
fingalartcentre@eircom.net  

For more information on Markets in the Dublin area and throughout Ireland, check out www.irelandsmarkets.com 

Food Waste Recycling Unit – 
Reduce pay by weight refuse charges use a stacking tray wormery – details from Element Green Solutions, Acorn Business Campus, Mahon Industrial Park, Blackrock, Cork. Tel 021-453 6153 info@elementgreen.com  www.elementgreen.com