ArchiveSeptember 2026

As costs soar, many busy Mums and Dads have the same dilemma – How to put delicious, nourishing, wholesome food on the table for the family, without ‘breaking the bank’. Well, let’s concentrate on sourcing the most nutrient-dense ingredients and see what we can do with those. Porridge oats are one of the most nutritious and least expensive grains, not just to make a steaming bowl of porridge (add any leftover to the ingredients for a soda bread) but also to make morish flapjacks for school lunches. Brown and white rice, also inexpensive, the foundation of a myriad of a sweet and savoury dishes and a base for so many proteins – a bowl of risotto will feed the family well and deliciously for just a few euros. Whole grain pasta is also inexpensive and a super way to stretch meals and has a low glycaemic index. All brilliant but the real secret weapon in terms of ‘bang for your buck’ are the pulses – peas, beans, chickpeas and lentils, the variety is staggering. Flageolet, black-eyed, haricot, butter or lima, mung, adzuki, borlotti or cranberry and black beans… and then there’s chickpeas and carlin peas. These pulses are widely available in local health food shops or even on supermarket shelves. If you really want to save money, buy them dry – they are inevitably shelf-stable, soak them overnight in lots of water so they double in size. A few tins or jars of pre-cooked beans are super to have in the pantry for an emergency. There’s virtually nothing you can’t do with them: soups, salads, stews, curries, purées… mix and match. They have wide varieties of flavours and are the cheapest form of protein; why don’t we eat more of them? A few more nutritious thoughts. Eggs also provide lots of protein, vitamin D and B12 at low cost. Cabbage and root vegetables cost very little, keep for ages in a cool place and are super versatile. Frozen spinach and peas still have a high percentage of their nutrients intact and lots of fibre in which so many are deficient. Canned tomatoes are definitely worth the money, a brilliant basis for beans and provide lots of the antioxidant lycopene and don’t forget potatoes are a wonder food with tons of vitamin C, iron, potassium and fibre. Our food should be our medicine, so go out of your way to find chemical-free, organic food – may seem more costly initially but better to pay the farmer or food producers to keep you healthy rather than the doctor or pharmacist to undo the damage.

Chilli con carne

My favourite recipe for chilli con carne.

The accompaniments are a crucially important part of the enjoyment of the chilli con carne – they make it into a feast.

Serves 6

Ingredients

500-725g stewing beef (better than mince), cut into 1-2cm cubes

extra virgin olive oil

1 large onion, chopped

2-3 cloves garlic, crushed

1 small green pepper, seeded, sliced

Colorado Sauce (see recipe)

1 tbsp tomato concentrate (optional)

1 tsp ground cumin

250g red kidney beans, cooked

salt and brown sugar

To Serve

sour cream

Cheddar cheese

fresh coriander

Tortilla Chips (see recipe)

Tomato and Coriander Salsa (see recipe)

Avocado Sauce (optional – see recipe)

Method

Trim the meat where necessary and brown it in olive oil. Transfer to a casserole. Brown the onion lightly in the same oil, add the crushed garlic and continue to cook for a minute or two and scrape on to the meat. Add the green pepper, Colorado sauce and just enough water to cover the ingredients. Cover tightly and leave to stew until cooked, keeping the heat low. Check the liquid occasionally. By the end of the cooking time, it should have reduced to a brownish red thick sauce. If it reduces too soon because the lid of the pan is not a tight fit, or you had the heat too high, top it up with water.

Last of all add the tomato if used, the cumin, the kidney beans if you are not serving them separately as a salad, with salt and brown sugar to taste. Simmer for a further 15 minutes, put a blob of sour cream on top of the chilli con carne, sprinkle with grated cheese.  Garnish with fresh coriander and serve with Tortilla Chips, Tomato and Coriander Salsa and optional Avocado Sauce.

Colorado Sauce

A delicious sauce to use when making chilli con carne, rather than the chilli powder sold in small bottles. It can also be used as a marinating mixture.

Ingredients

6-7 small, dried chillies, or 4-5 large fresh ones

1 large red pepper

1 large onion, chopped

1 large clove garlic

salt

Method

If the chillies are dried, soak them in a little water for an hour, then slit them and wash out the seeds. Discard the stalks, do the same with the large pepper. Purée with the other ingredients, using the soaking water if necessary to moisten the vegetables. If you use chillies, you might need a tablespoon or two of cold water. Season with salt. You can keep this sauce in a covered container in the fridge for two days, or you can freeze it.

Avocado Sauce

Ingredients

2 ripe avocados

3-4 tbsp lime or lemon juice

1 tbsp olive oil

sea salt

1 tbsp fresh coriander or flat parsley

Method

Scoop out the flesh from the avocados.  Mash the flesh with a fork, add lime juice, olive oil, chopped coriander, salt and pepper to taste. 

Tomato and Coriander Salsa (Pico de Gallo)

Best in Summer and early Autumn when tomatoes are ripe and juicy.

This sauce is ever present on Mexican tables to serve with all manner of dishes. Salsas of all kinds both fresh and cooked have now become a favourite accompaniment to everything from pan-grilled meat to a piece of sizzling fish.

Serves 4-6

Ingredients

4 very ripe tomatoes, chopped

1 tbsp red or white onion, chopped

1 clove garlic, crushed

½ – 1 chilli, deseeded and finely chopped Jalapeno or Serrano

1-2 tbsp chopped fresh coriander

squeeze of fresh lime juice

salt, freshly ground pepper and sugar

Method

Mix all the ingredients together. Season with salt, freshly ground pepper and sugar.

Taste and adjust the seasoning if necessary.

Totopos – Tortilla Chips

Tortilla chips make an excellent alternative to crisps; they will keep in an airtight container for up to a week.

Serves 4

Ingredients

6-8 tortillas

oil for deep frying

1 tsp salt

4 tbsp Parmesan cheese – Parmigiano Reggiano (optional)

½ tsp cayenne pepper (optional)

Method

Cut the tortillas into eighths. Alternatively, corn tortillas can be cut into strips, 5 x 1cm, but this is not advisable for wheat flour tortillas, which break too easily.

Heat the oil to 200°C.

Fry the pieces until they are light brown, stir occasionally to ensure that all the tortillas brown evenly.  Drain on absorbent paper, season and toss with the salt and Parmesan and/or cayenne if desired. 

Serve cold on their own or with a dip such as Guacamole. 

Autumn Black-eyed Bean, Pumpkin and Chickpea Stew

Recipe from One Pot Feeds All by Darina Allen, published by Kyle Books

One of the very best vegetarian one-pot dishes. What’s not to like about black-eyed beans, chickpeas and pumpkin with lots of spices? Delicious on its own, but equally good with a roast chicken or a few lamb chops. Eat with flatbreads or pilaff rice, if you prefer.

Serves 6

Ingredients

6 tbsp extra virgin olive oil

1 tsp cumin seeds

1 x 2.5cm cinnamon stick

150g onions, chopped

4 garlic cloves, very finely chopped

225g fresh mushrooms, sliced approx. 3mm thick

450g pumpkin or butternut squash, peeled and cut in 2cm cubes

400g fresh tomatoes, peeled and chopped or 1 x 400g tin of chopped tomatoes

2 tsp ground coriander

1 tsp ground cumin

½ tsp ground turmeric

a pinch of sugar

¼ tsp cayenne pepper

225g dried black-eyed beans, strained

110g dried chickpeas, strained

1 tsp salt

freshly ground black pepper

3 tbsp chopped coriander

For the Mint Yoghurt

300ml natural yogurt

1 tbsp chopped mint leaves

Method

Drain the chickpeas and black-eyed beans.  Pop into two separate saucepans, cover with fresh water, bring to the boil and cook until tender, this can take anything from 30-60 minutes. Drain and reserve the cooking liquid.

Heat the oil in a sauté pan over a medium-high heat. When it is hot, put in the cumin seeds and the cinnamon stick. Let them sizzle for 5-6 seconds, then add the onions and garlic. Stir-fry for 3-4 minutes until the onion is just beginning to colour at the edges.  Add the mushrooms and cook until the mushrooms wilt, then add the pumpkin or squash, tomatoes, ground coriander, cumin and turmeric, a pinch of sugar and the cayenne. Cook for 1 minute, stirring, then cover with a lid and cook over a gentle heat for 10 minutes.

Turn off the heat and tip in the drained beans and chickpeas. Add the salt and pepper, together with 2 of coriander. Pour in 150ml of the bean cooking liquid and 150ml of the chickpea liquid. Return to the boil and then reduce the heat and simmer for 5-10 minutes, stirring occasionally.

To make the mint yogurt, combine the yogurt with the chopped mint in a bowl.

Remove the cinnamon stick from the pan before serving and sprinkle with the remaining coriander. Spoon into serving bowls and top with a dollop of the mint yogurt. Accompany with a good green salad and rice, if you wish.

Red Lentil Dahl

One can never have too many dahl recipes. We’ve got lots in our repertoire. This one was given to me by a friend who says it’s her favourite.

Serves 6

Ingredients

250g red lentils

3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil

170g onion, finely chopped

1 tbsp coriander seeds, ground

1 tsp cumin seeds, ground

½ tsp fennel seeds, ground

½ tsp chilli powder, or to your taste

1 tsp turmeric

4 cloves of garlic, crushed

2 tbsp Forum white wine vinegar

1 stick of fresh cinnamon

1 x 400g tin chopped tomatoes

flaky sea salt and freshly cracked pepper

2 tbsp fresh coriander leaves, roughly chopped

Method

Cover the lentils with water. Bring to the boil and cook until soft, about 15-20 minutes. Drain. It’ll be a thick purée.

Meanwhile, sweat the chopped onions in extra virgin olive oil over a medium heat. Cover and cook for 5-10 minutes. Add the spices, mix well and cook for another 1-2 minutes.

Add the crushed garlic, vinegar and the cooked lentils and the stick of cinnamon. Next add the tomatoes, when it bubbles, turn down to a simmer and cook for 20 minutes.

Taste and season with more salt and freshly ground black pepper if necessary. Scatter with lots of coarsely chopped coriander leaves and serve with an Indian flat bread – naan, paratha, poori….

This column was prompted by the recent arrival of Kate Ryan’s ‘Blood, Guts and Black Pudding’ on my desk. One cannot but be in awe of the phenomenal amount of research that went into this incredibly important book. Makes for riveting reading, not just for academics but for all of us who care deeply about our traditional food and the loss of a vital part of our food culture. It reminds us of traditions that are in imminent danger of disappearing. Every culture around the world knew and understood the nutritional value of blood and used it to make many products including a variety of blood sausages. Here in Ireland, it has been an important part of life for centuries, it sustained warriors in epic battles, staved off hunger, offered protection from bad luck and provided sustenance during winter. It was drawn from living animals and collected from dead ones, stuffed into guts and boiled until cooked or stirred into bloody porridges over turf fires. It was even in the mortar of walls. During Ireland’s colonisation, the British were shocked by the Irish practice of consuming blood often from live animals and eating and using it in a variety of ways They used this observation to denigrate the rural Irish population depicting them as ‘base and savage’, in need of civilising. In fact, this was a sophisticated practice rooted in a deep knowledge of the health requirements of both animals and humans, resourceful and delicious. During the Irish famine, tenant farmers who had, had to surrender all their animals to their landlords would sometimes bleed them in secret on a Sunday hence the old saying, ‘The Kerry cow knows it’s Sunday…’Many artisan versions, particularly in East European countries, Asia and the Americas are still made with fresh blood resulting in a delicious soft textured pudding unlike the commercial pudding now made with rehydrated dried blood powder to comply with modern processing regulations. Talking about blood and guts brings memories tumbling back of making black pudding with my great aunt in Co. Tipperary when I was a child in the 1960’s. At that time, virtually everyone in both urban and rural areas kept a pig to fatten, even the post mistress in our little village of Cullohill in Co. Laois kept a couple of pigs. They were fed on barley, food scraps from her kitchen and lots of boiled potatoes and bran. Skim milk, called ‘slop milk’ was known to be good for fattening the pigs. Note the irony of that…. Remember when low-fat milk came on stream in the 1980s, costing more, supposedly slimming and better for us, a brilliant bit of marketing! For the last few weeks before slaughter, the pigs were kept indoors to fatten them up, often fed slop beer from a local pub so they would doze and put on more condition before slaughtering. The pork was unforgettably sweet and juicy. Throughout the country, heritage pigs were slaughtered during colder weather, in the late Autumn and Winter when flies posed less threat. Many homes in rural areas didn’t have electricity at that time, so, no fridges or freezers. Blood was salted to prevent coagulation. In virtually every parish there was a local slaughter man, who was known to be skilled in his profession, he’d be contacted when the pig or pigs were considered to be in prime condition. Some cuts were eaten fresh as pork. The remainder was turned into well-salted bacon, stored in layers in timber barrels or tanks and left for around 3 weeks to cure. Afterwards, the hams were hung up inside the chimney to gradually smoke. The salty bacon was hung from rafters in the pantry or kitchen – this prolonged food for the year. Back fat was cut into small dice to be added to the fresh blood for black pudding, as well as oatmeal, pepper, salt, nutmeg and mixed spices. Recipes varied and were rarely if ever written down, skill was passed from grandmother to mother to daughter, in the time-honoured way. The chosen pig would be fasted for a couple of days before the slaughter. On the appointed day, the hungry pig (from my memory, always a female) was easily enticed into a shed by the smell of some cooked potatoes and milk in a trough. A mighty blow to the head with a heavy sledgehammer rendered the animal unconscious, then it was strung up and bled. Every precious drop of blood was collected in spotlessly clean enamel buckets or basins. The intestines were washed in a stone trough under running spring water from the pump in the yard, turned inside out and then scraped of extra fat. Aunt Lil and I did this, the making of the puddings was always considered to be women’s work. Meanwhile, the men gutted the pig. The skin was shaved with the help of sharp knife and boiling water. The men butchered the carcass into joints; the heart was stewed, the kidneys and liver were used fresh, and the fillet was greatly prized. It was a huge amount of work but wonderfully convivial. Both puddings and meat were shared with neighbours who flocked to help in the Irish tradition of the Meitheal, they returned the compliment when their turn came to kill a pig. Everyone had their job and the neighbours who helped got a little of the fresh pork and maybe a bit of the black and white pudding. The latter was made from the minced scraps of meat, liver, lights (lungs) and oatmeal – also delicious. The making of the black and white puddings was Aunt Lil’s speciality. She tasted the raw mixture, poured it into the washed intestines, tied them into coils, then carefully poached, pricked here and there with a sterilised darning needle so they didn’t burst. I’ve never tasted anything so delicious before or since – what a tragedy that it is now so difficult to source fresh blood in great part due to the onerous regulations. A chapter in Kate Ryan’s book also discusses the four types of Irish fresh blood pudding that are either endangered or have already become extinct in the Irish diet. Drisheen now made from beef blood, is still alive and well in O’Reilly’s stall in the English Market in Cork but for how long more?  Packet, Achill Belly and Gooseneck puddings and dumplings, a whole other fascinating but sadly depressing story. Blood, Guts and Black Pudding, charts the complete history of Ireland’s great pudding tradition from pre-Christian times to the modern era, celebrating the many ways various bloods have been cooked, eaten and enjoyed.  It also asks the salutary question… What else is lost when the blood is gone…

Blood, Guts & Black Pudding: Ireland’s Dying Art of Blood as Food published by Nine Bean Rows.

Aunt Lil’s Black Pudding

Recipe from Forgotten Skills by Darina Allen published by Kyle Books

I learned how to make blood pudding (black pudding) when I was only about eight or nine years old, from my Great-Aunt Lil in County Tipperary.  It was a completely matter-of-fact activity, and seemed very normal to me, part of the natural cycle. I never felt squeamish about the blood. If you are going to make your own black pudding, I encourage you to gather children around. This may sound rather gruesome, but it’s a healthy thing for them to understand the reality of nature and traditional food production.

Makes 7-8kgs (approximately)

About 2kgs fat scraped from the intestines of one freshly slaughtered pig

2.6 litres blood from a fresh, free-range pig (as soon as the blood is drawn, stir and add 1 tbsp or more salt)

Ingredients

50g ground allspice

25g ground white pepper

salt to taste

1 nutmeg, freshly grated

2 tsp thyme leaves

dash of cayenne

110g white breadcrumbs

75g wholemeal flour

natural casings – ox runners

Method

Boil the fat from the intestines in 2.5 litres of water or pork broth until it is cooked. Strain the fat and mince. Beat the blood and put it through a sieve. Put the cooking liquid into a basin of hot water. Add all the other ingredients. Increase the amount of breadcrumbs and flour slightly if the mixture is not enough – it should be the consistency of sloppy porridge. Fill the casings with a funnel (do not fill too much as you need to allow for swelling) and prick with a sterilized darning needle so they don’t burst.

Put the filled casings into a saucepan of cold water, bring to the boil and simmer very gently for about 1 hour.

Black puddings can be stored in the fridge for up to 6 days. Traditionally, they were cut into thick slices and cooked gently on both sides in a little bacon fat or melted butter. Eat them with crispy rashers for breakfast or on their own with bread and butter.

Ballymaloe Homemade Sausages

Recipe from Forgotten Skills by Darina Allen published by Kyle Books

Sausages made from 100 percent lean meat may sound good, but for sweetness and succulence one needs some fat. The addition of breadcrumbs is not just to add bulk, it greatly improves the texture also.

Serves 8

Makes 16 Small or 8 large sausages

Ingredients

450g good, fat streaky pork (rindless), minced

2 tbsp mixed fresh herbs (e.g. parsley, thyme, chives, marjoram, rosemary and sage)

60g soft white breadcrumbs

1 large garlic clove

1 tsp salt and freshly ground pepper

1 organic egg (optional – helps to bind – reduce breadcrumbs to 50g if omitting egg)

dash of oil for frying

50g natural sheep or hog casings (optional)

Method

Chop the herbs finely and mix through the breadcrumbs. Crush the garlic to a paste with a little salt. Whisk the egg (if using) and then mix into the other ingredients thoroughly. Season with salt and freshly ground pepper. Fry off a little knob of the mixture to check the seasoning. Correct if necessary. Fill the mixture into natural sausage casings and tie. Twist into sausages at regular intervals. Alternatively, divide into 16 pieces and roll into lengths to make skinless sausages. Cover and chill.

Homemade sausages are best eaten fresh but will keep refrigerated for 2-3 days.

When ready to eat, fry gently on a barely oiled pan on a medium heat until golden on all sides. These sausages are particularly delicious served with Bramley Apple Sauce.

Note

For breakfast sausages, omit the herbs and garlic.

Dry-Cured Bacon

Recipe from Forgotten Skills by Darina Allen published by Kyle Books

A dry-cure can just be salt, or a combination of salt, sugar and flavourings such as spices and herbs. In a dry-cure, the salt or salt and sugar dehydrate the meat or fish. The spices and herbs add flavour. Some dry-cured meats do not need to be cooked, like Parma ham, pancetta and smoked salmon. On the other hand, others do, such as bacon or ham.

Makes 1kg bacon

Serves 6

Ingredients

pork (streaky, loin or shoulder) – for every 1kg, use:

1 tbsp dairy salt

1 tsp Demerara sugar

1 tsp ground coriander

1 tsp ground nutmeg

1 tsp bay leaf, finely chopped

1 tsp rosemary, chopped

1 tsp thyme, finely chopped

Method

Mix all the cure ingredients together. Remove the rind from the pork. (If you prefer, you can leave the rind on; it takes just a few hours longer to cure). Then rub the cure mixture thoroughly into the surface of the meat with your fingers.

Put the meat in a plastic box or a stainless-steel or enamel roasting tin. If you are doing more than one piece, you can layer up the meat, making sure to rub both sides with the curing mixture. Transfer to a fridge or cold-room to cure. Place something under the container (like a towel or book) on one side so it is on an angle, and the juices can run off. Take the meat out after curing and rinse it under cold tap water.

Hang the piece of bacon in a cold, airy spot to dry. If you are doing more than one piece, make sure they are not touching while drying. After that, streaky or normal bacon is ready to be fried or boiled. It keeps for weeks and sometimes months, depending on the quality and size.

My goodness, haven’t salads come a long way since the word salad meant only one thing, butterhead lettuce, sliced tomato, hard-boiled egg, a vinegary beetroot pickle, a scallion, maybe a few radishes for a posh version and of course Chef salad cream, that was in in pre mayo days.
Fast forward to now, literally the world is your oyster. Think seasonal – salads, can of course be warm, cold, room temperature…
We’re definitely thinking cool during the current heat waves. It’s been far too hot to even think about turning on an oven so let’s think what’s at its best at present. I love to incorporate ripe juicy nectarines, apricots or peaches into summer salads as well as crisp cucumber, beets, radishes, zucchini, aubergines and of course early tomatoes of many hues.
Crisp lettuce is best. The growth of some outdoor lettuce has actually been slowed because of the heat. Otherwise, a greyhound cabbage with its pointy nose is also delicious.
Love a few crunchy toasted nuts too and I can’t get enough of summer beets. At present were enjoying mixing purple, yellow, and striped chioggia beets for carpaccio of beetroot, just a little drizzle of extra virgin olive oil, some rocket leaves maybe a few shreds of burrata and a grating of  fresh lemon zest, simple and exquisite.
Café Cecilia across from Regents Canal in London is one of my favourite restaurants.
This zucchini, apricot, stracciatella and roast apricot salad is inspired by one of Max Rocha’s recipes, love the way he’s perked up the flavours with a little chopped rosemary in the dressing.
Also made this combination with some delicious smoked trout that I was gifted by Birgitta Hedin-Curtin from Burren Smokehouse in County Clare.
Goatsbridge Trout Farm smoked trout is also worth seeking out or else you could warm smoke your own fish on some smouldering wood chips,  just 4 to 5 minutes depending on the thickness of the fish fillet. So easy to do, I use an old biscuit tin over a medium gas flame.
Crunchy toasted nuts also add an extra dimension to a salad, walnuts, pecans, even almonds.
You’ll find the pickled radish and cucumber delicious in many salads and starters. Such a good recipe to use up a glut of radishes before they get woody.

Smoked Trout and Pickled Cucumber Salad inspired by Max Rocha of Café Cecilia

Max served a trout confit, but we love it with warm smoked trout too.

It’s super easy to hot-smoke your own fish. We use an old biscuit tin but it’s worth buying one of those simple stainless-steel smokers.

Serves 2

Ingredients 

For the pickles

1 tbsp sugar 

100ml white wine vinegar

1 tsp salt 

½ cucumber, finely sliced (on a mandoline, ideally)

5 breakfast radishes, finely sliced (on a mandoline, ideally)

hot smoked trout (see recipe)

200ml olive oil 

3 sprigs thyme

2 garlic cloves, peeled 

For the salad

6 tbsp good-quality olive oil 

2 tbsp Dijon mustard

2 tbsp white wine vinegar 

1 bunch watercress (about 80g)

juice of ½ lemon 

extra virgin olive oil, to finish 

4 sprigs chervil, leaves picked

4 sprigs dill, leaves picked 

Method 

First, make the pickle by combining 100ml water with the sugar, vinegar and salt in a saucepan, then gradually increase the heat until the sugar dissolves. Pour this over the cucumber and radishes in a bowl and set aside. 

For the salad, combine the olive oil, mustard and white wine vinegar. Drain the pickles and put them in a bowl with the watercress and 1 ½ tablespoons of the vinaigrette (save the rest for other salads in the week). Mix and taste for seasoning, adding a squeeze of lemon juice, a few extra drops of olive oil and a pinch each of sea salt and black pepper as required. 

Flake each trout fillet into 4-5 pieces, then divide half of the fish between 2 plates. Arrange half of the pickles and watercress mix on top, lay on the rest of the smoked fish, then top with the remaining pickle mix. Garnish with the fresh herb sprigs and a pinch of flaky sea salt. 

How to Hot-Smoke Fish

A brilliant basic skill and so fun to do.

You don’t need any special equipment – a biscuit tin will do.

The salt draws out excess moisture and inhibits the growth of bacteria. Both salt and smoke preserve. One you master the simple technique of hot-smoking, how about attempting to smoke chicken or duck breasts…

Serves 4

Ingredients

4-6 portions of wild salmon, trout, haddock, mackerel or hake

pure salt (not table salt)

Method

Lay the fish fillets, flesh side up, on a tray and sprinkle the fish with pure salt as though you were seasoning generously.  Be careful as it’s easy to over-salt if the fillets are thin.

Depending on the thickness of the fish, leave for at least 1 hour but not more than 3 hours. Dry the fillets with kitchen paper, place on a wire rack and leave to dry in a cool, airy place for 30 minutes. Sprinkle 2 tablespoons of sawdust (I use apple wood) on the base of a rectangular biscuit cookie or smoking box.

Put a wire rack into the tin and lay the fish, flesh side up, on top. Put the box over a medium gas flame for a minute or so until the sawdust starts to smoulder. Cover the box.

Reduce the heat and smoke for 4-7 minutes depending on the thickness of the fish.  Turn off the heat and leave the fish to sit in the tin/smoked unopened for 5 minutes.

Careful, it’s easy to over smoke!

Remove from the box and use as desired.

Max Rocha’s Courgette, Apricot, Stracciatella and Roast Almonds 

Serves 2

Ingredients 

1 green courgette 

extra virgin olive oil 

1 tsp balsamic vinegar 

zest of 1 lemon

½ bunch of basil, leaves picked

1 garlic clove, peeled and thinly sliced 

salt and freshly ground black pepper 

2 ripe apricots 

200g stracciatella (see tip)

Dressing

45g whole roast almonds

3 tbsp olive oil

1 tsp red wine vinegar 

1 tsp fresh rosemary leaves, chopped 

Method 

Slice the courgette lengthwise into thin strips, brush with extra virgin olive oil and grill in a hot griddle pan for about two minutes per side, until richly charred.

Prepare the marinade by putting 3 tablespoons of extra virgin olive oil, the balsamic vinegar, lemon zest, basil, garlic and some salt and pepper in a bowl. Fold in the courgette until evenly coated.

Roughly chop the almonds, put them in a bowl with the olive oil, red wine vinegar, rosemary and some salt and pepper. 

Halve, stone and slice the apricots into half-moons. Spoon half the stracciatella onto each plate, followed by the courgettes.

Finish with the apricots, dribble a tablespoon of the almond dressing over each portion and serve at once. 

Top Tip

Make your own stracciatella.

If you can’t source stracciatella, buy the best mozzarella (225g) you can find. Chop gently, cover with 175-225ml of cream, taste and add a pinch of flaky sea salt if necessary. Allow to macerate and soak up the cream for a few hours or overnight. Serve as required.

Just enjoyed our annual Irish Food Writers Guild voyage of discovery to Northern Ireland.
This year, we explored Armagh, the Orchard County, home of the Bramley seedling Apple and ecclesiastical capital of Ireland, how about that!
We drove past acres and acres of both old and new trees, laden with apples almost ready for harvest. Needless to say there are many entrepreneurial businesses, making a myriad of products from the famous cooking apple and the pollinators scattered through the orchards, but there is also a bourgeoning artisan food sector.
Burren Balsamics, was a surprising find. You’d expect it to be in County Clare but there are several other Burrens around the country. Here the charismatic Hamilton-Stubber family and their super innovative team make a wide variety of small batch balsamic vinegars from a base of white balsamic, flavoured with local blackberries, wild garlic…
They also make little pearls of balsamic vinegar, tiny flavour bombs of Blackberry and Thyme, that burst deliciously in the mouth.
During our short sojourn in Co Armagh, we visited two cider makers, both were on family farms. At AgniIig, James Mackle, a student with an impressive list of degrees has been experimenting with small batches of iced cider aged in virgin chestnut casks and is fastidious in his quest for the perfect result. Armagh iced cider, a premium product is indeed worth seeking out. Watch this space….
Another warm welcome to Long Meadow Cider Farm from the McKeever family in Portadown, one of the leading food tourism experiences in County Antrim.
This is a sixth generation family farm who supply virtually the whole of Northern Ireland with their famous apple juice, still and sparkling cider and apple cider vinegar with its many medicinal attributes.
They continue to experiment and have  recently introduced with great success, some flavoured ciders, including rhubarb and honey, Berry Blast and their latest, a  Mango Cider for which they can scarce keep up with the demand….
Longmeadow Farm also offer a tempting variety of tours and experiences for groups..
Another highlight was a visit to the Armagh Robinson library established in 1771, home to a remarkable collection of books, manuscripts and archives including a first edition of Johnathan Swifts’s, Gulliver‘s Travels and a special viewing of 18 century cookery related works. I could’ve stayed there all day long, it was truly fascinating.
Of course, we had many memorable meals, our first taste of Armagh was our lunch cooked over fire by Rory and his Mum, Fiona at On The Hoof located at Annareagh Road.
The deputy Lord Mayor, Lavelle McIlwrath added to Fiona‘s warm welcome. Such fun to see a copy of my Forgotten Skills Book on the shelf almost in ‘flitters’ from constant use.
Many delicious dishes including Beetroot Tzatziki, sprinkled with Marigold petals and a Summer berry Pavlova to die for!
Our last meal before we left was at Dante‘s Deli at the Palace. Among the memorable tastes of Armagh, we particularly loved the Ham Bon Bons. Thank you to Daniel Gallagher for sharing the recipe with our Examiner readers.
Loved the eclectic mix of food and culture chosen for us to experience by Tourism NI. Guess what, we were also introduced to road bowling by a couple of members of the Antrim team.  Road Bowling is one of Ireland’s most distinctive, traditional sports.
Such fun but don’t think I’ll make the A-Team, think I’ll stick to the pots and pans!
We also had dinner at FE McWilliams Gallery And studio, hosted by Quails at the Gallery, an award-winning restaurant located within the venue, a delicious celebration of local ingredients, artisan producers and Armagh ciders, many flavours of Northern Ireland Food Heartland. Need to put this venue on your list too when you plan your visit. Lots of places to stay, but we were very comfortable, warmly looked after and enjoyed a special breakfast at the Armagh City Hotel.
A whistle stop tour but one that left me yearning to return to the beautiful Orchard County of Armagh.

Ham Bon Bons

Thanks to Daniel of Dante’s Deli Armagh for sharing this crunchy, irresistible and very moreish recipe

Makes (approx. 40)

 Ingredients 

1.5kg Pork Knuckle 

1 Star Anise 

2 Bay Leaves 

2 Sliced White Onions 

1 Tablespoon Black Peppercorns 

100g Brown Sugar 

100g Sweet Paprika 

50g Salt 

1 Teaspoon whole grain mustard 

1/2 Teaspoon Chilli Powder 

100g chopped gherkins

500ml Apple Juice (Long Meadow Farm) 

Bread Crumb Coating

4 Tablespoons White Flour (plain or gluten free) 

1 Beaten Egg 

100ml Whole Milk 

150g Panko Breadcrumbs 

Salt and Pepper to Taste 

Method 

Mix all dry ingredients to make a rub. 

Coat the pork in mustard

Cover in dry rub 

Add chopped onions, cider and pork to an oven proof dish. 

Cover and cook at 160°C (320°F) for 6 hours 

Allow the pork to cool.

Shred, weigh out 60-80g of pork mix, taste for seasoning and  roll into walnut size balls.

Coat the bon bons in flour, dip in egg wash and coat in breadcrumbs.  

Keep in the fridge or immediately deep fry until golden brown and piping hot through. Serve with a chosen relish or chutney.

Beetroot Tzatziki

Thank you to On The Hoof for sharing this recipe.

To start..

Source a selection of beetroot, we love all the colours pink , amber , white and red striped.

Fiona steams them to cook them through , but they roast or boil beautifully too. They are cooked when the peel will rub off easily.

Drain, allow to get cold, peel and dice.

Tzatziki

De-seed, two cucumbers, grate them into a colander squeezing out the juice, set aside.

Mix the drained cucumber into 450 g (500ml) thick Greek yogurt, add the juice of one small lemon. Add salt to taste and a little good olive or rapeseed oil to loosen.

Add some finely chopped mint and dill.

Taste and adjust seasoning to your taste.

To finish, spread the Tzatziki over the base of a wide serving dish, decorate with the beetroot dice, top with some fresh mint and dill leaves.

Traditional Potato Apple Bread from Long Meadow Farm

A much loved and traditional Armagh recipe

Recipe makes 2

Ingredients

175g self-raising flour

420g cold mashed potatoes

1 medium sized Bramley apple (peeled and thinly sliced)

Method:

Add flour into a mixing bowl. Gradually add in the cold cooked mashed potatoes.

Stir ingredients together to make a dough (I like to use my hands as its easier to mix both together).

If you find the mixture is too sticky add more flour.

Turn mixture out onto a floured board and knead gently into a ball shape. Divide into two pieces.

Dust a rolling pin with flour, using one piece of the mixture, roll into a circular shape about ½ inch thick.

Mark a thin slight line down the middle.

Arrange the sliced Bramley Apple to one side of the circle of dough to form a couple of layers (1 medium sized apples should be enough for both servings).

Fold the other side of the mixture over the apples and seal the edges with your fingertips and cut off any excess dough.

The apples should now be enclosed within the dough like an apple turnover.

Repeat with the other half of the mixture. Heat a griddle until hot, dust with flour.

Lay the potato apple bread onto the griddle for 2 – 3 minutes. Turn the griddle down to medium/hot.

Turn over onto the other side. The potato apple bread should have now formed a light brown skin.

Continue turning the bread every few minutes (you should be able to hear the cooked apples bubbling). By continually turning the potato apple bread it remains soft and prevents it becoming scored and burnt.
Take off the griddle, slice open, add lots of butter and sugar to taste.