For years now we’ve been getting conflicting messages about what’s good for us nutritionally and three quarters of it I disagree with totally. For a start I avoid all low fat or ‘lite’ products. For me low fat or ‘lite’ means less flavour, less nutrients, less real value, every bite of food we eat should nourish us rather than just fill us with empty calories and fill the pockets of the multinationals. So how do we find nourishing food? Look out for and eat as much fresh, preferably home-grown local food in season as you can lay your hands on. Not always possible but ideally start to grow something yourself even if it’s only a few salad leaves in a pot or box on your window or balcony, it’ll taste a million times better. I know that sounds like a cliché but it’s totally true. Freshness is everything in most vegetables, herbs and fruit.

Involve the children as well in the growing – you’ll be astonished how they eat everything, spinach, broccoli, radishes, broad-beans, leeks… I’m convinced the reason why it’s so difficult to get children to eat vegetables is that their fresh palate can pick up chemical flavours and distinguish the difference between freshly picked vegetables that are full of natural sugars which quickly turn to less appealing starches as the vegetable ages.

Children and indeed all of us love the natural sugars so freshness is a key. If you are trying to make sense of the plethora of conflicting advice you would do well to be guided by Michael Pollen – who wrote the Omnivores Dilemma published by Puffin – in his book Food Rules – An Eaters Manual.

Don’t eat anything your great-grandmother wouldn’t recognise as food.

Avoid food products containing ingredients that no ordinary human would keep in the pantry.

Avoid food products that contain high-fructose corn syrup

Avoid food that have some form of sugar (or sweetener) listed among the top three ingredients.

Avoid food products containing ingredients that an eight year old child cannot pronounce.

Avoid food products that make health claims.

Avoid food products with wordoid ‘lite’ or the ‘low-fat’ or ’non-fat’ in their names.

Avoid foods you see advertised on television.

Shop the peripheries of the supermarket and stay out of the middle

Eat only foods that will eventually rot.

Eat foods made from ingredients that you can picture in their raw state or growing in nature.

Buy your snacks at the farmer’s market.

Eat only foods that have been cooked by humans.

Don’t ingest foods made in places where everyone is required to wear a surgical cap.

If it came from a plant, eat it; if it was made in a plant, don’t.

It’s not food if it arrived through the window of your car.

It’s not food if it’s called by the same name in every language… (think Big Mac or Pringles)

It’s unquestionably a good idea to eat lots of vegetables and fruit but do your utmost to find produce that is chemical free.

One of our teachers at the Cookery School – Debbie Shaw who is a fully trained nutritionist gave me some of her delicious healthy recipes and tips to share with you.

Debbie Shaw’s Humus in a Hurry

Humus is a delicious, highly nutritious and versatile Middle Eastern dish.

 

1 x 400g can of cooked chickpeas (“Suma”, organic, salt & sugar free beans), drained
1 teaspoon of ground cumin
Juice of ½ a large lemon
2 tablespoons of dark tahini paste (Meridian brand)

½ teaspoon of salt 1/2 teaspoon of smoked paprika

N.B. Tahini paste is made of ground sesame seeds. The light Tahini is not lower in calories, the sesame seeds have been hulled and are thus less nutritious!

To make it, drain and rinse the chickpeas. Cover in fresh cold water, place in a saucepan and boil for 2 minutes. Drain them holding back some of the cooking water. The chickpeas absorb all the flavours better when they are warm. Add the tahini paste, garlic, lemon juice, cumin and salt and blend with a hand blender to a puree. It should be soft. If it is too stiff add some of the reserved hot cooking water. Place the humus in a bowl, drizzle with a little cold-pressed, extra-virgin olive oil and sprinkle with the paprika.

 

 

 

 

 

Serving Suggestions

Crisp Crudités  

 

Humus is delicious as a starter with fresh crudités (raw vegetables), including baby spring onions, French beans, asparagus, celery sticks, carrot sticks, courgette sticks, sweet pepper strips, cherry tomatoes, and broccoli or cauliflower florets. Pop the humus in a tub and bring it to work with a bag of veggie sticks.Wholewheat Pittabread Sticks

 

 

Mix 2 teaspoon of extra virgin olive with a pinch of coarsely ground cumin seeds, a pinch of smoked paprika and a pinch of sea salt. Cut the pitta bread into long strips and toss in the oil mixture. Cook in a hot oven or under a grill until crisp. Use them to dip into the humus.

Humus is also great in sandwiches instead of mayonnaise.

 

Debbie Shaw’s Seared Organic Salmon with Baby Spinach, Wild Garlic
and Watercress Pesto & Brown Rice Tagliatelle

This delicious light summer recipe is packed with nutrients offering maximum energy for minimum effort.

Serves 4

1lb 4oz (510g) of dried brown rice tagliatelle or spaghetti
1 lb (400g) Fresh Organic Salmon, skinned and cut into 1″ cubes
Salt & freshly ground pepper
2 tablespoons of pine nuts, toasted in a dry frying pan with no oil
2 oz (50g) baby spinach

 

For the Pesto

 

1 oz (25g) wild garlic, long stalks removed
2 oz (50g) baby spinach
1 oz (25g) watercress, leafs only
1 clove of garlic, finely crushed
1 oz (25g) of walnuts
2 ½ – 3 floz (75–90 mls) of cold pressed extra virgin olive oil
1 oz (25g) parmesan cheese, grated on a medium-sized grater, hold back 2 tblsp for sprinkling

First make the pesto. Ensure the greens are totally dry before blending. Place the first 5 ingredients in a blender (or use a hand blender or pestle and mortar). Blend briefly on pulse until the greens and walnuts are chopped. Whiz again briefly, pouring in the olive oil. Remove to a bowl and fold in most of the parmesan cheese, keeping a little for sprinkling. If you cannot pick wild garlic or watercress, use 4oz of baby spinach.

To cook the pasta, bring 8 pints of water to a fast rolling boil and add 2 teaspoon of salt. I have chosen brown rice pasta because it is delicious, highly nutritious and gluten-free. This dish could equally be made with other wholegrain pastas (high in B vitamins for energy) such as quinoa or buckwheat, which are also gluten-free, or whole wheat or wholegrain spelt pasta. They take a bit longer to cook than white pasta. Follow the cooking directions on the packet.

Place the brown rice tagliatelle in the vigorously boiling water and stir immediately to separate the strands. The pasta will take 6-8 minutes to cook. While the pasta is cooking, heat a non-stick frying pan over a medium heat, add 1 tablespoon of olive oil and the salmon cubes and season with salt and pepper. Cook over a low to medium heat until the salmon is cooked through.

When the pasta is cooked, leaving a slight bite (“al dente”), drain it, reserving some of the pasta cooking water. Rinse the pasta under hot water to remove excess starch. Mix 4 tablespoons of the pasta water into the pesto to thin it out (this allows you to use less oil when making the pesto). Place the pasta in a large warm bowl and coat evenly with the pesto. Finally add the cooked salmon cubes and the uncooked baby spinach leaves. Toss gently without breaking up the salmon. Sprinkle with the toasted pine nuts, grated parmesan and wild garlic flowers on top. Voilá, you have a delicious, highly nutritious, energy-giving meal. Bon appetite.

 

Debbie’s Energising, Revitalising Homemade Herbal Teas

Grow some herbs and try making your own fresh herbal teas to energise and revitalise your body and mind. They are easy to make and less expensive than herbal teabags.

To make rosemary or mint or lemon balm tea:

 

Place 2 sprigs of fresh rosemary or 4 large sprigs of fresh lemon balm or 4 large sprigs of fresh mint in a small flask and cover in 400ml boiling water (this is enough for two cups of tea) Put the lid on the flask and allow to infuse for 10 minutes. I like to use a flask to keep the teas hot while they are infusing, but you can also use a teapot and tea cosy. Pour and enjoy.

Rosemary Tea

Stimulates circulation, releases energy

Improves memory

Lifts the spirits

Lemon Balm TeaInvigorates the body,

Relieves stress/anxiety,

Settles the stomach

Mint Tea

Refreshes body and mind

Aids digestion

Aids memory

Mild aphrodisiac

 

 

 

Cinnamon Tea
To make cinnamon tea, break 1 large cinnamon stick in half. Add the cinnamon pieces to a flask and cover with 400mls boiling water. Put on the lid and infuse for 10 minutes. Sometimes I also pop a star anise in as well. Serve with a teaspoon of Manuka honey and a squeeze of fresh lemon juice.

 

Balances blood sugar and relieves sweet cravings

Warms the body

Lifts the spirits

Helps lower cholesterol

 

Root Ginger and Fresh Lemongrass Tea

 

 

To prepare the tea, slice a 1 inch piece of fresh unpeeled root ginger and bruise a stalk of fresh lemongrass with a rolling pin. Place the ginger pieces and lemon grass in a flask and cover with 400mls boiling water. Cover with the lid and allow to infuse for 20 minutes. Pour and enjoy.

 

Energises the body

Stimulates circulation

Aids digestion, relieves headaches and nausea

 

 

 

 

Debbie’s Eat for Energy Tips

Where do we get our Energy from?

We get our energy from what we eat and our bodies convert it into useable fuel. Here comes the science bit. In every cell in your body there is a little “power house” called the Mitochondria, which makes your energy. In order for this power house to function well it needs key vitamins and minerals, from food.

Introducing the high energy vitamins: B vitamins (B1-B3, B5, B6), EFA’s (essential fatty acids), iron, magnesium and vitamin C.

For B-Vitamins Eat More

– wholegrains (wholewheat, quinoa, buckwheat, brown rice, wholegrain spelt), wheat germ, bran, brewers yeast, dried & sprouted beans, nuts & seeds (walnuts, almonds, sunflower seeds), eggs, fish, game, asparagus, avocados, broccoli & carrots. B vitamins also help us distress. 

For EFA’s Eat More

– fresh oily fish such as salmon, herrings, sardines, trout and seabass; flaxseeds, nuts and seeds, nut and vegetables oils. EFA’s are also essential for good brain function and promote serotonin production. Serotonin is the brain’s “happy” chemical.

For Magnesium Eat More – leafy green vegetables including spinach and watercress; wheatgerm & bran, brewers yeast, walnuts, almonds, cashews, soyabeans and seafood. Magnesium is also essential for heart health and restful sleep. For Vitamin C Eat More

– fresh fruits and vegetables, in particular kiwis, blackcurrants, strawberries, green vegetables (including watercress & broccoli) and sweet peppers. Vitamin C is also essential for immune health, dental health and helps relieve hay fever (it is a natural anti-histamine). For Iron Eat More

– green leafy vegetables (including spinach & nettles), parsley, avocados, kelp, pumpkin seeds, walnuts, pine nuts. Hottips

Join Debbie Shaw on her “Feel Good Food Course” on Saturday, July 3^{rd, 2010 at the Ballymaloe Cookery School and learn how to cook more delicious recipes to energise your life. Her recipes are inspired by the fresh, healthy flavours of the Mediterranean, Asia and the Middle East, and will include superfood salads, fabulous fish, family favourites and tasty treats. Book online}

 

^{www.cookingisfun.ie or phone 021 4646785.Â} 

Gorta Soup for Life

Help make hunger history by gathering friends and colleagues for a fun get together over a cup, bowl or pot of soup (or any other meal that takes your fancy!) and making a contribution to gorta’s work aimed at eliminating hunger and malnutrition in sub-Saharan Africa.

 

^{www.gorta.org/soup Â} 

 

Mustard Seed Limerick Celebrates their 25th Anniversary this year

Dan Mullane’s

The Mustard Seed opened its doors in a cottage in the centre of Adare village 25 years ago. From small beginnings with 5 staff members, a basic herb garden and lots of good will, the Mustard Seed has grown to a four star country house that was awarded the Georgina Campbell Country House of the Year 2008. It’s worth taking a trip just to try head chef David Rice’s pan fried turbot with potato fennel salad, charred asparagus and rocket aioli, it’s really really good. ^{To book 06968508 –}

 

^{mustard@indigo.ie www.themustardseed.ie}

I’m not quite sure what’s going on but it’s becoming more difficult to find really good cinnamon—frequently what is sold as cinnamon is its coarser cousin cassia. Most of the real cinnamon comes not from India but from Sri Lanka. The latter is the biggest exporter of cinnamon in the world by far. Cinnamon trees grow happily in the same kind of tropical climates as tea and rubber. They can grow to a height of 20-30ft but are carefully pruned to a height of 6 ft so the branches grow in a spindly fashion. These are cut when they are about the thickness of a brush handle and 6-8ft long.

I visited a cinnamon plantation in Sri Lanka some time ago, the grower explained that one can start to harvest the cinnamon after 3 ½ years. In December and January and then again in August. The art of peeling the bark is very specialized and done by a people from a particular caste called Salagama. The cinnamon peelers sit side-by-side, cross-legged in a shed. It is fascinating to watch, one person peels off the outer bark, then the next carefully slits the inner layer with a short knife and lifts it off in long pieces. This will curl up as it dries and then be sold in cinnamon quills or sticks for use in sweet and savory dishes and medicines. Cinnamon is now known to be a cure for type 2 diabetes. It brings blood sugar levels down naturally and mimics the action of insulin. In Sri Lanka people also drink cinnamon tea to help reduce cholesterol—just add a ¼ teaspoon of freshly ground cinnamon to a cup of weak tea. Omit the milk.

From the cook’s point of view, good cinnamon is a beautiful flavour enhancer however the majority of ground cinnamon is now adulterated with the cheaper and more acrid cassia. You will notice that it is darker in colour than it used to be and has a much less appealing aroma so it’s best to buy whole cinnamon sticks or quills and grind them yourself in a coffee or spice grinder.

Cinnamon and Orange Cake

 

Serves 8

 

45g/ 1 ½ oz slightly stale white breadcrumbs (yeast or soda bread)

200g/ 7 oz caster sugar

100g/ 3 1/2 ozs ground almonds

7 fl ozs / 200ml oil

4 eggs

finely grated zest of 1 large orange

finely grated zest 1/2 lemon

1/2 teaspoon baking powder

 

Cinnamon Syrup

juice of 1 orange

juice of 1/2 lemon

85g /3 ozs sugar

2 cloves

1 cinnamon stick

crème fraiche or Greek yoghurt

 

8 inch x 2 1/2 inch deep (20.5cm x 6.5cm deep) tin OR 4 small loaf tins 5.75 inches (14.6cm) x 3 inches (7.62cm) lined with greaseproof or silicone paper.

 

Mix the breadcrumbs with the sugar, almonds, and baking powder. Whisk the oil with the eggs, pour into the dry ingredients and mix well. Add the orange and lemon zest. Pour the mixture into a greased and lined tin.

 

Put into a cold oven, and set the heat to 180C/350F/regulo 4.

 

Bake for 45-60 minutes or until the cake looks a rich golden brown. A skewer inserted into the centre should come out clean. Cool for 5 minutes in the tin before turning out onto a plate.

 

Meanwhile make the syrup

 

 

Put all the ingredients into a stainless steel saucepan, bring gently to the boil, stirring until the sugar has dissolved completely. Simmer for 3 minutes. While it is still warm,

pierce holes in the cake with a skewer and pour over the syrup. Leave to cool. Spoon excess syrup back over the cake every now and then until it is all soaked up.

One can remove the cinnamon sticks but I like to leave them on top of the cake.

Serve with crème fraiche or thick Greek yoghurt.

Cinnamon & Marzipan Apples

A Swedish friend called Bo Hermansson gave me this mouth-watering recipe for baked apples. The centre is filled with homemade marzipan and then the apples are rolled in cinnamon-flavoured sugar.

Serves 12, 1 per person

12 medium eating apples, eg. Worcester Pearmain, Golden Delicious or Cox’s Orange Pippin

Marzipan

175g / 6 oz ground almonds

225g / 8ozs sugar

4 fl ozs /110ml water

1 egg white

natural almond extract to taste (beware, 1 drop only)

Coating

4 ozs /110g melted butter

8ozs /225g castor sugar mixed with 4 rounded teaspoons ground cinnamon. (This is approximate: the amount of the mixture depends on the size of the apples.)

To Make the Marzipan

Put the sugar and water into a deep saucepan. Stir over a medium heat to dissolve the sugar in the water. Bring to the boil. Cover the pan for 2 minutes to steam any sugar from saucepan sides. Remove cover and boil rapidly just to thread stage -106-113°C (236°F).

Remove from the heat. Stir the syrup for a second or two until cloudy. Stir in almonds. Set aside to cool briefly.

Lightly whisk egg white, add the almond extract and stir into the almond mixture. Transfer the paste from the saucepan to pyrex plate. Cool. The cool marzipan should feel like moulding clay.

Meanwhile, peel and core the apples. Stuff the cavities with the marzipan filling. Roll the apples first in melted butter and then in the castor sugar and cinnamon. Arrange side by side in an ovenproof dish and bake in a moderate oven 180°C/350°F/regulo 4, for 1 hour approx. The apples need to be very soft and almost bursting.

Serve warm with a bowl of softly-whipped cream.

(Marzipan will keep for 2-3 months in a fridge).

Note

Apples may take less/more time to cook depending on the variety and time of the year.

 

Cinnamon Scones

 

Makes 18-20 scones using a 7 1/2 cm (3inch) cutter

 

In season: all year

 

900g / 2lb plain white flour

175g / 6oz butter

3-4 teaspoons cinnamon

3 free-range eggs

pinch of salt

50g /2oz castor sugar

3 heaped teaspoons baking powder

450ml /15floz approx. milk to mix

 

Glaze

egg wash (see below)

granulated sugar mixed with one teaspoon cinnamon

 

First preheat the oven to 250°C/475°F/gas mark 9.

 

Sieve all the dry ingredients together in a large wide bowl. Cut the butter into cubes, toss in the flour and rub in the butter. Make a well in the centre. Whisk the eggs with the milk, add to the dry ingredients and mix to a soft dough. Turn out onto a floured board. Don’t knead but shape just enough to make a round. Roll out to about 21/2cm (1inch) thick and cut or stamp into scones.* Put onto a baking sheet – no need to grease. Brush the tops with egg wash and dip each one in the cinnamon. Bake in a hot oven for 10-12 minutes until golden brown on top. Cool on a wire rack.

Serve split in half with good Irish butter.

Egg Wash

Whisk 1 egg with a pinch of salt. This is brushed over the scones and pastry to help them to brown in the oven.

 

Top Tip

– Stamp them out with as little waste as possible, the first scones will be lighter than the second rolling.

 

 

 

Apple, Walnut and Cinnamon Tart

A yummy pud to share with family and friends. Pecans and hazelnuts are also delicious.

 

Serves 8-10

 

225g/ 8oz self raising flour ½ teasp. baking powder

75g/ 3oz butter

150g /5oz castor sugar

freshly grated zest from ½ lemon or lime

1 free range egg

5 fl.ozs /150ml milk

Topping:

500g/18ozs cooking apples – we use Grenadier or Bramley Seedling

25g/1oz butter, melted

25g/1oz chopped walnuts or pecans

50g/2oz granulated sugar

1 teasp. freshly ground cinnamon

1 rectangular tin 30x20x2.5cm (12x8x1 inch)

Line the tin with parchment paper (Bakewell)

Preheat the oven to 180C/ 350F/ regulo 4

 

Sieve the flour and baking powder in a wide bowl, cut the butter into cubes, and toss in the flour. Rub in the butter until it resembles coarse breadcrumbs. Add the castor sugar and freshly grated lemon or lime rind.

Whisk the egg and milk together. Make a well in the centre of the dry ingredients, add the liquid and mix well with a wooden spoon. The mixture should be soft and smooth.

Spoon the mixture into the lined tin and spread evenly.

Brush the top with melted butter; arrange the apple slices in overlapping layers. Sprinkle the roughly chopped walnuts or pecans evenly over the top. Mix the cinnamon with the sugar and sprinkle evenly over the entire surface.

Bake for 40 minutes approx. or until puffed and golden. Remove from the tin and cool on a wire rack.

Serve with softly whipped cream or crème fraiche.

Variations; substitute mixed spice for cinnamon.

Fool Proof Food

 

Apple and Cinnamon Fritters

Apple Fritters have been one of my absolutely favourite puddings since I was a child – nothing changed I still love them.

4 cooking apples, Brambly, Seedling or Grenadier

110g / 4 ozs plain white flour

pinch of salt

1 egg, free range if possible

150ml/ ¼ pint milk

sunflower or peanut oil for frying

8 ozs (225g) castor sugar

1 teasp. cinnamon

Serves 6 approx.

Sieve the flour into a bowl, add a pinch of salt. Make a well in the centre, whisk the egg slightly, pour into the centre slowly add the milk whisking in a full circle; gradually bring in the flour from the outside. Continue to whisk until the batter is light and bubbly. Peel and core the apples, cut into 5mm thick slices. Heat about 4cm of oil in a frying pan. Dip a few slices of apple into the batter one by one. Fry on both sides until crisp and golden, drain well. Add cinnamon to the castor sugar, toss each fritter in and serve immediately with softly whipped cream.

Hot Tips

Michael Brenock, known to home gardeners and self sufficiency buffs throughout the country and a regular on ‘Ask about gardening’ on RTE radio has just published ‘The Irish Gardeners Handbook’ (O’Brien Press) a brilliant, simple guide for those of us who want to grow their own. Michael also provides weekly classes to allotment growers.

(021) 4631369.

Cork Free Choice Consumer Group presents ‘How to make your own Compost’. Donal O’Leary from Wastedown will explain how to make compost at home. Billy Wigham will talk about how he produces ‘Gee-Up’ compost and Caroline Robinson will demonstrate how to make compost teas. Crawford Art Gallery Café, Thursday 29th April at 7.30pm. The entrance fee of €6.00 includes tea/coffee

When you’re next in Cloyne, East Cork, it’s worth going to Cuddigan’s Bakery run by Siobhan Cronin – she stocks all sorts of delicious goodies. She sources most of her stuff locally – fresh fish from Ballycotton Seafood , meat from Kevin Day and Cormac O’Connor, potatoes from Ballycotton, smoked fish from Frank Hederman and goats cheese from Ardsallagh. Her salmon and potato cakes are yummy and her pear and almond tarts a treat. 021 4652762.

Contact Green Saffron to get fresh cinnamon quills – 021 4637960. Also try your local health food shop.

A few days in New York leaves you wondering what recession? No point in chipping up to one of the hot restaurants without a reservation. Many don’t take bookings anyway so you just resign yourself to queuing – could be half an hour or longer but you might as well chill out and accept the inevitable wait. One can enjoy the camaraderie and cheery banter between fellow ‘hopefuls’.

This time, I stayed in a newish boutique hotel down-town in the Meat Packing district in Greenwich Village. The uber-cool Standard Hotel has a procession of gorgeous young people in the edgiest new gear traipsing in and out all the time.

Hunter Wellies seem to be the hippest footwear just now; I was feeling totally frumpy having left my wellies on the back porch in Shanagarry. As ever, I ate for Ireland – all in the way of research! It was over the St Patricks Day holiday so the food and kitchen shops from posh Dean and Delucca, to the farmer’s market were selling shamrock cookies edged with glitter, scary green cup cakes and gateaux covered in Kelly-green shamrocks and cheeky leprechauns. Many sold soda bread and spotted dog. The US version of Irish soda bread usually includes dried fruit and caraway seeds as well – very delicious.

The food scene in New York is brilliantly exciting; some of the best food is found in tiny restaurants where hungry young chefs and cooks, passionate about fresh, local straight from the farm or farmer’s market are doing simple creative food that knocks your socks off. This was typified in Aldea where George Mendes daily menu has a Portuguese influence.

I had a particularly delicious lunch at Locanda Verde a new ‘haut-casual’ neighbourhood restaurant in Tribeca’s Green Hotel where chef Andrew Carmellini is making waves. People are flocking for garlic encrusted chicken for two; I didn’t try that but I loved the sheep’s milk ricotta with cracked pepper and fresh thyme leaves and a good gloop of really beautiful extra virgin olive oil. This was served with a few slices of char-grilled focaccia. There was also a slice of duck and pistachio terrine with a frisée salad, roast pumpkin and pomegranate seeds. We also tasted delicious little meat balls rolled in fresh tomato sauce tucked inside a tiny brioche bun with a little goat cheese and pickled cucumber. But the most mind blowing of all was steak tartare with truffle oil and was it gherkin? The beef was hand cut into minute 1/8 inch cubes and exquisitely seasoned. A little strip of crisp guanciale propped up against the side and a fried poached quail egg sat on the top – much of the food is served on slate or timber boards and like many New York restaurant now there’s a little café at the side of restaurant with tempting goodies to take home.

 Mario Batali’s Casa Mona in Irving Place is still pulling in the adventurous eaters with its sublime tapas and small plates which might include duck hearts, cocks combs, pig’s ear, or tripe.

It’s all about meat in New York at present; chefs are going crazy doing cured meats, homemade sausages, salami… Some of the hottest new places like Minetta Tavern are leading the way. Artisan Butchers are the new heroes, cool young people are vying with each other to sign up for Butchers School and apparently most classes are over subscribed. The cool crowd and it seems everyone else as well, are on a stampede in search of the ‘smash’ burger. Can you imagine, there are blogs about burgers where people reveal their newest find and affionados are forking out up $28.00 for trendy – piled high burgers in throbbing faux ‘speak-easys’. Try the iconic Shake Shack, there are now three in town. Zaitzelf in the East Village is getting rave reviews for their glamburgers make of Kobe beef, sirloin, turkey, veggies…

BD Bistro Moderne – David Bouloud’s superbistro also serves a delish enriched burger if you have a mind to pay $32.00 for the fashionista’s favourite.

When I’m in New York if I have a craving for a burger I head to Le Parker Meridian Hotel in Midtown and slink in behind the crumby velour curtain off the lobby, there’s a  ‘caf’ with Formica tables where you can tuck into maybe the best but not the most expensive burger in town. The Breslin Bar and Dining Room is another place to add to your list. April Bloomfield of Spotted Pig fame has opened a new flagship gastropub there, great lamb burgers, tongue sandwiches and onion soup laced with bone marrow. Love nor money couldn’t get me into Maialino, Danny Meyer’s classic new Roman trattoria – there are rave reviews for the food so it may be worth booking on line before you leave home and while you’re at it, book Momofuku KO – they only have 12 seats – a brilliant experience – there’s also Momofuku Ssam and Momofuku Noodle Bar – all David Chang’s brainchild.

There is so much more, Sorella, Emma Hearst’s small seasonal restaurant and winebar serves exceptional Austrian Farmers market cooking at good prices and is again in mid-town.

I haven’t even mentioned breakfast at Ino or the Grey Dog. Pack a skirt with an elasticated waist band, buy a Time Out and a Zagat’s guide to New York dining and have fun. 

 

French Onion Soup with Gruyére Toasts

 

Serves 6

 

French onion soup is probably the best known and loved of all French soups and is still an enduring favourite from Paris to New York. It was a must for breakfast in the cafes beside the old markets at Les Halles in Paris and is still a feature on bistro menus at Rungis market.  Traditionally this soup is served in special white porcelain tureens. 

 

Serve with a glass of gutsy French vin de table.

 

1.35kg (3 lb) onions

50g (2 ozs) butter

1.7Litre (3 pints) good homemade beef or chicken stock or vegetable stock

salt and freshly ground pepper

 

To Finish

6 slices of baguette (French bread), 1/2 inch (1cm) thick toasted

75g (3oz) grated Gruyére cheese

 

Peel the onions and slice thinly. Melt the butter in a saucepan. Add the onion and cook on a low heat for about 40-60 minutes with the lid off, stirring frequently – the onions should be dark and well caramelised but not burnt.

 

Add the stock, season with salt and freshly ground pepper, bring to the boil and cook for a further 10 minutes.  Taste and correct seasoning.

 

Ladle into deep soup bowls; put a piece of toasted baguette covered with grated cheese on top of each one. Pop under the grill until the cheese melts and turns golden. Serve immediately but beware – it will be very hot.  Bon appetit!

 

Useful Tip

Hold your nerve: – The onions must be very well caramelized otherwise the soup will be too weak and sweet.  

 

American Irish Soda Bread with Caraway Seeds and Sultanas

 

Try this Irish American version of soda bread the caraway seeds give a delicious flavour and its made in minutes.

 

1 lb (450g) white flour, preferably unbleached

1 level teaspoon salt

1 level teaspoon breadsoda

3 oz (75g) sultanas

2 teaspoons caraway seeds

sour milk or buttermilk to mix – 12-14 fl ozs (350-400 ml) approx.

 

First fully preheat your oven to 230ºC/450ºF/regulo 8.

 

Sieve the dry ingredients. Add the sultanas and caraway seeds. Make a well in the centre.  Pour most of the milk in at once. Using one hand, mix in the flour from the sides of the bowl, adding more milk if necessary. The dough should be softish, not too wet and sticky. When it all comes together, turn it out onto a well floured worked surface.  WASH AND DRY YOUR HANDS.  Tidy it up and flip over gently.  Pat the dough into a round about 1 1/2 inches (2.5cm) deep and cut a cross on it to let the fairies out! Let the cuts go over the sides of the bread to make sure of this. Bake in a hot oven, 230ºC/450ºF/regulo 8 for 15 minutes, then turn down the oven to 200ºC/400ºF/regulo 6 for 30 minutes or until cooked. If you are in doubt, tap the bottom of the bread: if it is cooked it will sound hollow.

Cool on a wire rack , break in half and cut in thickish slices from the end. Slather with good Irish butter and enjoy.

 

Duck and Pistachio Terrine

 

 

 

Serves 10

 

8 ozs (225g) fresh duck livers

2 tablespoons) brandy

1/2 teaspoon ground white pepper (yes, put it all in!)

8 ozs (225g) very thinly sliced, rindless streaky rashers (you may need more if they are not very thinly sliced) or better still, barding fat*.

1/2 oz (15g) butter

1 medium onion, finely chopped

1 lb (450g) streaky pork, minced

8 ozs (225g) duck leg, minced

2 cloves of garlic, finely chopped

1/4-1/2 teaspoon ground allspice (Pimento or Jamaican Pepper)

a good pinch of ground cloves

1 tablespoon freshly chopped annual marjoram

2 small eggs, beaten

salt, freshly ground pepper and nutmeg

2 ozs (50g) shelled pistachios

6-8 ozs (170-225g) piece of cooked ham, cut in thick strips

bay leaf

sprig of thyme

 

Luting paste or tinfoil

3 pint (1.7 L/7 1/2 cups) capacity terrine or casserole with tight fitting lid

 

Preheat oven to 180°C/350°F/Gas Mark 4.

 

Wash the duck livers, separate the lobes and remove any trace of green.  Marinade in the brandy and 1/2 teaspoon of ground white pepper for 2 hours.   Line a terrine or casserole with very thinly sliced bacon or barding fat, keeping a few slices for the top.

 

Sweat the onion gently in the butter until soft but not coloured.  In a bowl mix the sweated onion with the pork, duck, garlic, allspice, ground cloves, chopped marjoram, beaten eggs and the brandy from the duck livers.  Season with salt, freshly ground pepper and lots of grated nutmeg.  Mix very thoroughly.  Fry a little piece and taste for seasoning – it should taste quite spicy and highly seasoned.  Add the pistachios and beat until the mixture holds together.

 

 

Spread a third of the farce in the lined terrine, add a layer of half the ham strips interspersed with half the duck livers, and then cover with another third of the pork mixture.  Add the remaining ham and livers and cover with the last third.  Lay the reserved barding fat or bacon slices on top, trimming the edges if necessary.  Set the bay leaf and sprig of thyme on top of the bacon or barding fat and cover with the lid.  Seal the lid with a sheet of tinfoil under the lid.

 

Cook in a ban-Marie in a preheated oven, 180C/350F/regulo4, for 1 1/4-1 1/2 hours or until a skewer inserted for 1/2 minute into the mixture is hot to the touch when taken out.  If you are still in doubt remove the lid and check: the pate should also have shrunk in from the sides of the terrine and the juices should be clear. 

 

Cool until tepid, remove the luting paste or tinfoil and lid and press the terrine with a board and a 2 lb (900g) weight until cold.  This helps to compact the layers so that it will cut more easily.  Keep for 2-3 days before serving to allow the terrine to mature.  It can be frozen for up to 2 months.

 

To Serve: Unmould the terrine, cut into thick slices and serve with some crusty bread. Andrew Carmellini served it with a little frisée salad with a few chunks of roast pumpkin and some pomegranate seeds sprinkled on top.

 

Coffee Crème Brulee

 

Serves 4

 

200ml (7oz) milk

200ml (7oz) cream

4 large or 5 small organic egg yolks

40g (1 ½ oz) sugar

1 ½ tablespoons Irel Coffee Essence

 

4 ramekins

 

Preheat the oven to 150ºC / 300°F / Gas 2

 

Put the milk and cream into a heavy bottomed saucepan. Whisk the egg yolks with the sugar, gradually pour the boiling liquid over the egg yolks whisking all the time. Add the coffee and whisk again.

Pour the mixture through the sieve into 4 ramekins. Bake in a bain maire in the preheated oven for about 30 minutes until just set but slightly wobbly in the centre. Shallow wide dishes cook faster, 20 minutes approximately.

Cool, cover with cling film and chill. Sprinkle with Demerara sugar – it should be a thin layer, tip off excess if necessary. Glaze with a blow torch. Café crème brulee is already very rich but serve with a little pouring cream if you must.

 

Fool Proof Food

 

Confiture D’Oignons  

 

Makes 450ml (3/4pint)

 

This superb recipe has become very popular in recent years and I always have some made up. It is wonderful warm also, particularly with pan-grilled monkfish or even a lamb chop. This recipe will keep for months and is especially delicious with pâtés and terrines of meat, game and poultry.

 

 

1 1/2 lbs (675g) onions

3ozs (75g) butter

1 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon pepper, freshly ground

5ozs (150g) castor sugar

7 tablespoons sherry vinegar

9fl ozs (250ml) full-bodied red wine

2 tablespoons cassis

 

Peel and slice the onions thinly.  Melt the butter in the saucepan and hold your nerve until it becomes a deep nut brown colour – this will give the onions a delicious rich flavour but be careful not to let it burn. Toss in the onions and sugar, add the salt and freshly ground pepper and stir well. Cover the saucepan and cook for 30 minutes over a gentle heat, keeping an eye on the onions and stirring from time to time with a wooden spatula.

 

Add the sherry vinegar, red wine and cassis. Cook for a further 30 minutes uncovered, stirring regularly. This onion jam must cook very gently (but don’t let it reduce too much). When it is cold, skim off any butter which rises to the top and discard.

 

 

Hottips

 

Don’t miss the Waterford Festival of Food in Dungarvan from Friday 16^th to Sunday 18^th April. To get a taster of the exciting program of events and to book online go to www.waterfordfestivaloffood.com or phone (058) 22000 for more information.

 

Eat your own honey… learn how to get started on keeping your own bees, buying a hive and colony, necessary equipment, feeding and management on ‘Beekeeping an Introduction’ with Pat Finnegan on Sunday 18^th April at the Organic Centre, Rossinver, Co Leitrim. To book this course and to see their full course schedule visit www.theorganiccentre.ie or phone (071) 9854338

 

 

 

 

On Easter Sunday our clever hens lay beautiful coloured eggs with the children and grandchildren’s names on them. In late morning we have an Easter egg hunt in the Palais des Poulets. When the children have found their very own eggs and deposited them carefully in the basket, there’s a stampede to the garden where they run hither and thither looking for their chocolate eggs which the Easter Bunny might have hidden in the beech hedge, tucked into flowering shrubs or into a clump of daffodils. The excitement is off the radar. Later those who can bear to eat their precious eggs have boiled egg soldiers.

Later we tuck into our Spring lamb and a juicy rhubarb tart. There is lots of Wild Garlic at present so I plan to serve Wild Garlic Champ with my roast Spring lamb this year.

Our Rhubarb is later than usual this year, the first new spears are just ready now – I get such a thrill picking rhubarb, it reminds me of when I was little. We used to sneak into the kitchen garden with a cup of sugar and a pen knife to trim the rhubarb stalks, then we’d dip the end into sugar and eat it raw – I’m not sure I’d enjoy it now but I loved it then. By the way a simple rhubarb sauce is absolutely delicious with roast pork or a pork chop instead of the conventional apple sauce. The acidity cuts the richness in an appetising way. Happy Easter.

Roast Spring Lamb with Wild Garlic Champ

 

The flesh of young spring lamb is sweet and succulent and needs virtually no embellishment apart from a dusting of sea salt and freshly ground pepper and a little fresh Mint Sauce – made from the first tender sprigs of mint from a cold frame in the garden.

I have a standing order with my butcher from one year to the next for Spring lamb.

For me this is the quintessential taste of Easter. Spring lambs will have been born before Christmas so they are ready for the Easter market. As Easter is a movable feast they vary in age but are most delicious when they are about 3-4 months old weighing approximately 9-10kgs. They will have mainly been milk fed with a little grass. Older lamb between Easter and Christmas takes longer to cook and benefits from some additional herbs and spices, little sprigs or rosemary and garlic inserted into the lamb, or freshly roasted coriander or cumin seeds rubbed into the scored surface with some Maldon sea salt is also delicious. After Christmas, the flavour of Hogget is stronger and the flesh a little tougher so we love to braise it slowly and serve it with a bean stew or poached vegetables.

Serves 6-8

1 leg of Spring lamb – about 2.7kgs

sea salt and freshly ground pepper

Gravy

 

1 pint (600ml) lamb or chicken stock

a little roux (see recipe)

salt and freshly ground pepper

Wild Garlic Champ (see recipe)

Remove the aitch bone from the top of the leg of lamb or ask your butcher to do it for you. This makes it so much easier to carve later, then saw off the knuckle from the end of the leg. Season the skin with salt and freshly ground pepper. Transfer into a roasting tin.

Preheat the oven to 180°C/350°F/regulo 4. Roast for 1-1 1/4 hours approx. for rare, 1 1/4 -1 1/2 hours for medium and 1 1/2-1 3/4 hours for well done, depending on size. When the lamb is cooked to your taste, remove the joint to a hot carving dish. Rest the lamb in a low oven at 50-100°C for 10 minutes before carving.

Meanwhile make the gravy. Degrease the meat juices in the roasting tin (* see note), add the stock. Bring to the boil and whisk in a little roux, just enough to thicken slightly. Taste and allow it to bubble up until the flavour is rich enough. Correct the seasoning and serve hot with the lamb, roast spring vegetables and lots of crusty roast potatoes.

 

 

Roux

 

4oz (110g) butter

4oz (110g) flour

Melt the butter and cook the flour in it for 2 minutes on a low heat, stirring occasionally. Use as required. Roux can be stored in a cool place and used as required or it can be made up on the spot if preferred. It will keep at least a fortnight in a refrigerator.

How Do I Degrease the Juices?

 

The gravy should be made in the roasting tin because that is where the flavour is. Usually there is not a great deal of juice in the roasting pan, there will be some caramelised meat juices and lamb fat. This is precious because it is the basis of the gravy. Tilt the roasting tin so the fat collects in one corner. Spoon off as much fat as possible. Then pour icy cold stock into the roasting tin, this will cause the last few globules of fat to solidify so they can be quickly skimmed off the top with a perforated spoon. Then continue to make gravy as in the recipe.

 

Wild Garlic Champ

 

Wild Garlic Allium Ursinum is in season now and will be for another few weeks. Use copiously in salads, pesto, soups and gratin. It’s particularly delicious with Spring lamb.

Serves 4-6

A bowl of mashed potatoes flecked with wild garlic and a blob of butter melting in the centre is ‘comfort’ food at its best.

1.5kg (3lb) 6-8 unpeeled ‘old’ potatoes e.g. Golden Wonders or Kerrs Pinks

350ml (10-12fl oz) milk

50-110g (2-4oz) butter

salt and freshly ground pepper

85g (2-3oz) roughly chopped wild garlic leaves

Scrub the potatoes and boil them in their jackets.

Chop finely the wild garlic leaves. Cover with cold milk and bring slowly to the boil. Simmer for about 3-4 minutes, turn off the heat and leave to infuse. Peel and mash the freshly boiled potatoes and while hot, mix with the boiling milk and onions, beat in the butter. Season to taste with salt and freshly ground pepper. Serve in 1 large or 6 individual bowls with a knob of butter melting in the centre. Wild garlic champ may be put aside and reheated later in a moderate oven, 180°C/350°F/regulo 4. Cover with tin foil while it reheats so that it doesn’t get a skin.

 

Scallion Champ

 

In season: spring

Add 110g (4oz) chopped scallions or spring onions (use the bulb and green stem) or 45g

chopped chives to the milk just as it comes to the boil. Continue as above.

 

 

Cauliflower Cheese

 

 

 

There are lots of lovely cauliflowers in the green grocers at present. A bubbly cheese would be delicious and easy to serve with lamb.

Serves 6-8

1 medium sized cauliflower with green leaves

salt

 

Mornay Sauce

600ml (1 pint) milk with a dash of cream

a slice of onion

3-4 slices of carrot

6 peppercorns

sprig of thyme or parsley

roux (see recipe)

salt and freshly ground pepper

150g (5oz) grated cheese, e.g. cheddar or a mixture of Gruyére, Parmesan and Cheddar

1/2 teaspoon mustard

 

 

Garnish

Chopped parsley

Preheat the oven to 230°C/450°F/gas mark 8.

Prepare and cook the cauliflower (see recipe).

Meanwhile make the Mornay Sauce. Put the cold milk into a saucepan with the onion, carrot, peppercorns and herb. Bring to the boil, simmer for 3-4 minutes, remove from the heat and leave to infuse for 10 minutes.

Strain out the vegetables, bring the milk back to the boil and thicken with roux to a light coating consistency. Add most of the grated cheese (reserving enough to sprinkle over the dish) and a little mustard. Season with salt and freshly ground pepper, taste and correct the seasoning if necessary. Spoon the sauce over the cauliflower and sprinkle with the remainder of the grated cheese. The dish may be prepared ahead to this point.

Put into the preheated oven or under the grill to brown. If the cauliflower cheese is allowed to get completely cold, it will take 20-25 minutes to reheat in a moderate oven. 180°C/350°F/gas mark 4. Serve sprinkled with chopped parsley.

 

How to Cook Cauliflower

 

1 medium-sized cauliflower with lots of fresh green leaves

salt

Remove the outer leaves and wash both the cauliflower and the leaves well. Put not more than 1 inch (2.5cm) water in a saucepan just large enough to take the cauliflower; add a little salt. Chop the leaves into small pieces and cut the cauliflower in quarters or eighths; place the cauliflower on top of the green leaves in the saucepan, cover and simmer until cooked, 10-15 minutes approx. Test by piercing the stalk with a knife, there should be just a little resistance.

 

New Season’s Rhubarb Tart

 

Serves 8-12

This is such a terrific pastry. If I’m in a mad rush I make it in a food processor – it’s a little more difficult to handle if you use it right away but works fine even if you have to patch it a bit. It’s fun to do an Easter Bunny on the tart.

 

Pastry

 

225g (8 oz) butter

55g (2 oz) caster sugar

2 eggs free-range and organic if possible

350g (12 oz) flour

 

Filling

 

450g (1 lb) red rhubarb

175g (6 1/2 oz) sugar

Egg Wash

1 beaten free-range organic egg with a little milk, to glaze

1 x 23cm (9 inch) tin with 4cm (1 ½ inch) sides

First make the pastry. Cream the butter and sugar together in a food mixer, add the eggs and beat for several minutes. Reduce the speed and add in the flour, little by little, to form a stiff dough. Flatten into a round, cover with cling film and chill for at least 1 hour, this makes the pastry much easier to handle. Otherwise just put all the ingredients into a food processor and pulse until just combined.

Roll out half the pastry to about 3mm(c inch) thick and line a round tin measuring 20.5 x 30.5cm (8 x 11.5 inches).

Slice the rhubarb into 1 cm (22 inch) rounds, fill the tart and sprinkle with the sugar.

Roll the remaining pastry, cover the rhubarb and seal the edges. Decorate with pastry bunnies. Paint with egg wash and bake in a preheated oven 180ºC/350ºF/gas mark 4 until the tart is golden and the rhubarb is soft (45 minutes to 1 hour). When cooked, sprinkle lightly with caster sugar and serve with softly whipped cream and Barbados sugar.

Note:

This tart can also be filled with, gooseberries and elderflower, Worcesterberries, Bramley apples, damsons, plums, blackberry and apples, peaches and raspberries, rhubarb and strawberries.

 

Easter Bunny Biscuits

 

Makes 25 approximately

These are rather fun to make for Easter – the kids can make them too.

6 oz (170g) plain white flour

4 oz (110g) butter

2 oz (55g) castor sugar

Decoration:

 

icing, raisins, tiny speckled eggs

rabbit or chick shaped biscuit cutter

Preheat the oven to 180C/350F/regulo 4.

Mix the flour and castor sugar in a bowl, rub in the butter and continue to work until the mixture comes together in a firm dough. Roll into a quarter inch (6mm) thick sheet on a floured board.

Stamp into ‘bunny’ shapes with a cutter. Bake in the preheated moderate oven for 8 -15 minutes or until pale and golden in colour. Cool on a wire rack.

Decorate with icing, raisins or speckled tiny chocolate eggs where appropriate.

 

Note:

Watch these biscuits really carefully in the oven, because of the high sugar content they burn easily. They should be a pale golden colour – darker will be more bitter.

Food Proof Food

Rhubarb Sauce

 

450g (1lb) red rhubarb cut into 2.5cm (1in) pieces

110g (4oz) sugar

Put the rhubarb in a stainless-steel saucepan, add the sugar and cook over a low heat until soft. Taste and add more sugar if necessary.

 

Thrifty Tip

 

 

Cauliflower Cheese Soup

 

Follow the master recipe for Cauliflower Cheese but instead of browning in the oven or under the grill, liquidise the lot with any left over cauliflower cooking water and enough light chicken stock, about 850ml (11/2 pints) to make a nice consistency. Taste and correct the seasoning. Serve with croutons, cubes of diced cheddar cheese and parsley.

Hottips

 

Stock up for the week at Listowel Farmers Market, Co Kerry, every Friday from 9:00am to 2:00pm. Get some of Caroline Rigney’s award winning Curraghchase Free Range Pork (087 2834754) and to accompany your roast pork, some delicious organic veggies from Manna Organic Store 066 7118501. Why not pick up a treat for Coeliacs from Maurice Hannon’s gorgeous gluten free cakes and biscuits 087 6260157. www.kerryfarmersmarkets.com/ListowelFarmersMarket.html

Sophie Maill breeds traditional, rare breed chickens and also sells hybrid laying hens in various colours. She is based in Skibbereen, West Cork and sells hatching eggs, day old chicks, hens and ducks. Phone 086 0839569.

This week its back into the kitchen to cook up some Easter treats. First I’ll make a Simnel Cake with a fat juicy layer of almond paste in the centre and another layer on top – I’ll decorate the top with balls of almond paste to represent eleven of the 12 apostles. Judas doesn’t make it to the top of the cake because he betrayed Jesus.

The marzipan enrobed cake will then be toasted in the oven. It’s a gorgeous cake with a long tradition. I’ve also experimented with cooking the mixture in muffin tins and putting just one marzipan apostle on top – also delicious. If the children are around they love helping to roll the marzipan.

Hot cross buns are our other Easter favourite – it’s not difficult to make your own, it takes time but not too much of your time. Much of the time the dough is quietly rising, there’s a little kneading involved but look on it as a mini-workout. It’s also wonderfully therapeutic when you get into the spirit of it.

Hot cross buns are best freshly baked but they also freeze perfectly so if you make a biggish batch, you can pop a few back into the oven to reheat over a few days. Buttered eggs are another Easter treat but for perfection you’ll need to have your own hens because the eggs need to be warm from the nest to properly absorb the butter. This was originally a way of preserving the eggs in the short term but it’s worth doing because it also preserves the curdy texture of a freshly laid egg. Another special treat for Easter tea are crystallised primrose cupcakes, there are a real labour of love but so so pretty. First there is the joy of picking the primroses (only when they are plentiful). Then paint each one with a fine paintbrush dipped in slightly beaten egg white, when the entire surface and the stem is covered sprinkle it all over with sieved castor sugar. Arrange a sheet of silicone paper on a baking tray – I put them near my ancient Aga to dry out but anywhere warm will do – near a radiator or in a hot cupboard. They will keep for months and are irresistible on cakes or desserts.

Buttered Eggs

This ancient Irish way of preserving eggs in times of glut deserves to be more widely practised, not just for preservation, but actually for the gorgeous flavour and texture the cooked eggs produce. If you’ve got access to really fresh, still-warm eggs, you can try it yourself.

Gerry Moynihan, who still sells buttered eggs in the English Market in Cork, told me that the whole secret is that the shells must be sealed with butter while the egg is still warm or, as he puts it, ‘before the hen misses the egg’. The warm egg and your warm hands will cause the butter to form a coating around the egg. The freshness is sealed in and the albumen stays soft and curdy when boiled or poached.

Buttered eggs can be kept up to two months, but now that we all have constant access to eggs, the reason people still continue this tradition is for the flavour and texture it produces. I’ve also heard of people dipping eggs in lard, melted wax or flaxseed oil.

Crystallised Primrose Cupcakes for Easter

If you have just one oven you may need to make the cupcakes in three separate batches.

Makes 36

450g (1lb) butter (at room temperature)

450g (1lb) caster sugar

450g (1lb) self-raising flour

6 large eggs preferably free-range and organic

6 tablespoons milk

1 1/2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract.

Icing

350g (12 oz) Icing sugar

finely grated rind of two small lemons

3 to 6 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice

Crystallised Primroses (See Recipe)

3 muffin trays lined with 12 muffin cases each.

Preheat oven to 190ºC/375ºF/gas mark 5. First make the crystallised primroses and allow to dry. See recipe. Put all ingredients except milk into a food processor and whizz until smooth. Scrape down sides, then add milk and whizz again.

Divide mixture between the cases in the muffin tins.

Bake in the preheated oven for 15 –20 minutes or until risen and golden. Remove from the tin and cool on a wire rack.

Next make the icing. Sieved the icing sugar into a bowl add the finely grated lemon rind and enough freshly squeezed lemon juice to make a softish icing.

Ice each cupcake with a small palette knife and arrange a crystallised primrose on top.

 

Crystallized Flowers

 

 

Guidelines

1.

Use fairly strong textured leaves, the smaller the flowers the more attractive they are when crystallized eg. Primroses, violets.

 

2

. The castor sugar must be absolutely dry; one could dry it in a low oven for about 2 hours approx.

 

3

. Break up the egg white slightly with a fork. Using a child’s paint brush, brush it very carefully over each petal and into every crevice. Pour the castor sugar over the flower with a teaspoon; arrange the flower carefully on Bakewell paper so that it has a good shape. Allow to dry overnight in a warm dry place, e.g. close to an Aga or over a radiator. If properly crystallized these flowers will last for months, even years, provided they are kept dry. We store them in a pottery jar or a tin box.

 

 

4

.When you are crystallizing flowers remember to do lots of leaves also so one can make attractive arrangements – e.g. mint, lemon balm, wild strawberry, salad burnet or marguerite daisy leaves etc.

 

 

Simnel Cake

 

8 ozs (225g) butter

8 ozs (225g) pale, soft brown sugar

6 eggs, preferably free range

10 ozs (275g) white flour

1 teaspoon mixed spice

2 1/2 fl ozs (35ml) Irish whiskey

12 ozs (350g) best quality sultanas

12 ozs (350g) best quality currants

12 ozs (350g) best quality raisins

4 ozs (110g) cherries

4 ozs (110g) home made candied peel

2 ozs (50g) whole almonds

2 ozs (50g) ground almonds

rind of 1 lemon

rind of 1 orange

1 large or 2 small Bramley Seedling apples, grated

 

Almond Paste

 

1 lb (450g) ground almonds

1 lb (450g) castor sugar

2 small eggs

a drop of pure almond extract

2 tablespoons Irish whiskey

 

Line the base and sides of a 9 inch (23cm) round, or an 8 inch (20.5cm) square tin with brown paper and greaseproof paper.

 

Wash the cherries and dry them. Cut in two or four as desired. Blanch the almonds in boiling water for 1-2 minutes, rub off the skins and chop them finely. Mix the dried fruit, nuts, ground almonds and grated orange and lemon rind. Add about half of the whiskey and leave for 1 hour to macerate.

 

Next make the almond paste.

 

Sieve the castor sugar and mix with the ground almonds. Beat the eggs, add the whiskey and 1 drop of pure almond essence, then add to the other ingredients and mix to a stiff paste. (You may not need all the egg). Sprinkle the work top with icing sugar, turn out the almond paste and work lightly until smooth.

 

Preheat the oven to 180°C/350°F/regulo 4.

 

Cream the butter until very soft, add the sugar and beat until light and fluffy. Whisk the eggs and add in bit by bit, beating well between each addition so that the mixture doesn’t curdle. Mix the spice with the flour and stir in gently. Add the grated apple to the fruit and mix in gently but thoroughly (don’t beat the mixture again or you will toughen the cake).

Put half of the cake mixture into the prepared tin, roll about half of the almond paste into an 8 1/2 inch (21.5cm) round. Place this on top of the cake mixture in the tin and cover with the remaining mixture. Make a slight hollow in the centre, dip you hand in water and pat it over the surface of the cake: this will ensure that the top is smooth when cooked. Cover the top with a single sheet of brown paper.

 

Put into the preheated oven; reduce the heat to 160°C/325°F/regulo 3 after 1 hour. Bake until cooked, 3 – 3 1/2 hours approx., test in the centre with a skewer – it should come out completely clean. Pour the rest of the whiskey over the cake and leave to cool in the tin.

 

NOTE

: When you are testing do so at an angle because the almond paste can give a false reading.

 

Next day remove the cake from the tin. Do not remove the lining paper but wrap in some extra greaseproof paper and tin foil until required.

 

When you wish to ice the cake, roll the remainder of the almond paste into a 9 inch (23cm) round. Brush the cake with a little lightly beaten egg white and top with the almond paste. Roll the remainder of the paste into 11 balls. Score the top of the cake in 1 1/2 inch (4cm) squares or diamonds. Brush with beaten egg yolk; stick the ‘apostles’ around the outer edge of the top, brush with beaten egg. Toast in a preheated oven 220°C/425°F/regulo 7, for 15-20 minutes or until slightly golden. Decorate with an Easter Chicken. Cut while warm or store for several weeks when cold.

 

NB

: Almond paste may also be used to ice the side of the cake. You will need half the almond paste again.

 

This cake keeps for weeks or even months, but while still delicious it changes both in texture and flavour as it matures.

 

Names of the Apostles

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

(1).

Simon (also known as Peter)

(2).

Andrew (Simon Peter’s brother)

(3).

James

(4)

John (James’s brother)

(5).

Philip

(6).

Bartholomew

(7).

Thomas

(8).

Matthew (tax collector)

(9).

James

(10).

Thaddaeus

(11).

Simon the Cananaean

(12).

Matthias

 

 

 

Hot Cross Buns

 

 

Nowadays Hot Cross Buns are traditionally eaten in Ireland on Ash Wednesday and on Good Friday. This practice would have been frowned on in the past when these were black fast days and the people would scarcely have had enough to eat, not to mention spicy fruit filled buns.

 

Makes 16

 

25g (1oz) fresh yeast

75-110g (3-4oz) castor sugar

450g (1lb) baker’s flour

75g (3oz) butter

1/4 teaspoon cinnamon

1/4 teaspoon nutmeg

2-3 teaspoons mixed spice, depending how fresh it is

pinch of salt

2 organic eggs

225-300ml (8-10 fl oz) tepid milk

75g (3oz) currants

50g (2oz) sultanas

25g (1oz) candied peel, chopped

egg wash made with milk, sugar, 1 organic egg yolk, whisked together

 

shortcrust pastry

 

OR

 

Liquid Cross

50g (2oz) white flour

1 tablespoon melted butter

4-5 tablespoons cold water

 

To Make the Hot Cross Buns.

 

Dissolve the yeast with 1 tablespoon of the sugar in a little tepid milk.

Put the flour into a bowl, rub in the butter, add the cinnamon, nutmeg, mixed spice, a pinch of salt and the remainder of the sugar. Mix well. Whisk the eggs and add to the milk. Make a well in the centre of the flour, add the yeast and most of the liquid and mix to a soft dough, adding a little more milk if necessary.

 

Cover and leave to rest for 2 or 3 minutes then knead by hand or in a food processor until smooth. Add the currants, sultanas and mixed peel and continue to knead until the dough is shiny. Cover the bowl and let the dough rise in a warm place until it doubles in size.

 

“Knock back”, by kneading for 3 or 4 minutes, rest for a few minutes. Divide the mixture into 14 balls, each weighing about 50g (2oz). Knead each slightly and shape into buns. Place on a lightly floured tray. Egg wash and leave to rise.

 

If using shortcrust, arrange a cross of pastry on each one. Leave to rise until double in size. Then egg wash a second time carefully.

 

We tend to decorate with what we call a “liquid cross”. To make this, mix the flour, melted butter and water together to form a thick liquid. Fill into a paper piping bag and pipe a liquid cross on top of each bun.

 

Preheat the oven to 220ºC/425ºF/gas mark 6.

 

Bake in the preheated oven for 5 minutes then reduce the heat to 200ºC/400ºF/gas mark 6 for a further 10 minutes or until golden. Brush again with egg wash. Leave to cool on a wire rack. Split in two and serve with butter.

Fool Proof Food

Easter Egg Nests

Makes 24

4ozs (110g) Rice Krispies

6ozs (175g) Chocolate

72 mini eggs

cup cake papers or ring moulds

Put the chocolate in a Pyrex bowl over a saucepan of hot water. Bring just to the boil, turn off the heat and allow to melt in the bowl. Stir in the rice krispies.

Spoon into cup cake cases. Flatten a little and make a well in the centre. Fill with three speckled chocolate mini eggs. Allow to set.

 

Hottips

Moynihan’s stall in the English Market in Cork city still sell buttered eggs.

If crystallising primroses is not your idea of fun, call to the café at the end of the shop beside Ballymaloe House, Alison Henderson’s primrose cupcakes are totally irresistible 021 4652531.

Lots of great short courses coming up at the Ballymaloe Cookery School but I’ll mention just two. Julia Child’s fans may like to join us for a hands-on 2 ½ day course on Wednesday 7^{th to Friday 9th April – ‘A Homage to Julia Child’ – you’ll master some of our favourite recipes from her repertoire.} ‘Start or transform your own teashop’

from is another12th-14th April. Another hands- on course which includes an afternoon on ‘How to stay in business and make money’ with Blathnaid Bergin. Check out ^{www.cookingisfun.ie for more details.}

Will this chilly weather ever end? Anyhow let’s cheer ourselves up with a big pot of bubbling stew. These recipes certainly won’t break the bank and will provide a wonderful meal for family and friends. The trick is to seek out your local family butcher and start to ask questions. Get to know the joints of meat so you can buy wisely and chose the recommended cuts of meat for a particular dish. The good news is that the cheapest cuts are best for stewing and slow cooking and you will need lots of bone for flavour. A nice chunk of neck of lamb or scrag end make a delicious lamb stew. Bulk it out with lots of carrots, onions or maybe a parsnip. You could cover the entire pot with peeled whole potatoes and you will have the whole meal in one pot.

Lamb shanks are lovely and meaty and also a good buy. They take ages to cook to melting tenderness but when the meat is virtually falling off the bones everyone will be licking their lips. Serve them with fluffy mashed potatoes or if you prefer just beans or lentils.

How come so few people over here know about beef short ribs? These are 4 inch strips cut diagonally across the lower ribs. I first came across short ribs in Tom Colliccio’s Craft restaurant in New York on a cold winter’s day, I thought I’d died and gone to heaven. However a lovely American friend Mary Jo Wendel gave me her recipe which has become a firm favourite. I’m also mad about a family dish we called Scalloped potato which also contains beef kidney and a tiny bit of flank of beef. Another truly economical dish and the most comforting thing to eat on a dreary winter day.

 

Mary Jo’s American Braised Short Ribs

From Forgotten Skills of Cooking by Darina Allen

Beef short ribs are about 8–10cm (3–4in) strips of a cross section of rib bones and the meat that links them together. This is more of an American butcher’s cut, but now that we’ve discovered short ribs over here, we can’t get enough of them. This cut cooks out to melting tenderness when slow-cooked, which is why we’ve chosen braising as the method of cooking and the high percentage of bone adds lots of extra flavour. If at all possible, make this the day before it’s needed – the flavour will be even better and it’ll be much easier to remove every scrap of fat when it has solidified on top.

Serves 6

6 crosscut beef short ribs, trimmed

salt

225g (8oz) streaky bacon (in a single piece if possible)

1 tablespoon olive oil or duck fat

225g (8oz) carrots, diced

175g (6oz) celery, diced

8 garlic cloves, cut in half

1 chilli, sliced

1 red pepper, diced

1 yellow pepper, diced

3 large onions, 1 sliced – the other 2 chopped

1 tablespoon tomato purée

225ml (8fl oz) red wine

1 sprig of rosemary

2 bay leaves

small fistful thyme branches

1 cinnamon stick

3 spirals of orange zest

Beef Stock or chicken stock to come halfway up the pot

Roux (see below), optional

If possible, trim and sprinkle the beef with salt the night before cooking.

Preheat the oven to 150°C/ 300°F/gas mark 2. Remove the rind and dice the bacon. Save the rind to cook with the beef as it adds gelatine which gives the sauce extra body. Heat a little oil in a wide sauté pan and brown the diced bacon. Remove it to a plate.

Brown the beef in batches (do not overcrowd the sauté pan). Leave 2 tablespoons of fat in pan and use it to sweat the onions, carrots and celery, stirring to dissolve all the browned bits in the sauté pan. Add the garlic, chilli and peppers and sweat for 5–6 minutes or until limp.

Place the beef, bacon and vegetables in a casserole or heavy braising pot, preferably enameled cast iron.

Add the tomato purée to the hot sauté pan and cook briefly. Add the wine and bring to boil. Pour the over the beef and add the herbs, cinnamon stick and orange zest. Add enough stock to come halfway up the pot. Cover with a butter wrapper and tight-fitting lid and transfer to the oven. Braise in the oven until tender, 3–41⁄2 hours – the meat should be tender and almost falling off the bones.

Remove bay leaves, stalks and stems of the other herbs and the orange peel and cinnamon stick. Leave to cool overnight. Next day, skim off the solidified fat and discard. Bring the pot back to the boil, add more stock if needed and thicken with a little roux if desired. Taste and correct the seasoning.

 

Roux

Roux can be stored in a cool place and used as required or it can be made up on the spot if preferred to thicken up a sauce.

110g (4oz) butter

110g (4oz) plain flour

Melt the butter in a pan and cook the flour in it for 2 minutes on a low heat, stirring occasionally. It will keep for a fortnight in a refrigerator.

 

 

Remove most of the fat from each shank and then scrape the meat away from the bone to loosen it. Make two deep incisions in each joint and insert a sprig of rosemary and a sliver of garlic wrapped in half an anchovy fillet into each incision. Season the meat with salt and black pepper.

Heat the duck fat or olive oil in a heavy sauté pan or casserole and sauté the lamb until it is well browned on all sides. Remove the lamb shanks from the pan.

Next add the bacon and cook until crisp, then add the carrots, celery, leek, onion and garlic and cook over a high heat until slightly browned. Add the red wine to the pan and bring to the boil, stirring for a minute or two. Add the stock, herbs and orange peel to the pan, then place the lamb shanks on top. Cover and cook in the oven for 21⁄4 hours.

Remove from the oven and add the tomato fondue, cannellini beans, herbs and enough stock to half-cover the beans. Cover and simmer for a further 3⁄4 –1 hour.

When the lamb has finished cooking it should be falling off the bone. Remove the thyme, bay leaves and orange peel. Taste and correct the seasoning.

Serve the lamb shanks in a hot, deep dish with the beans and vegetables poured over and around. Garnish with sprigs of fresh rosemary and thyme.

 

 

 

 

 

Braised Lamb Shanks with Garlic, Rosemary and Cannellini Beans

From Forgotten Skills of Cooking by Darina Allen

This is where the magic of slow cooking transforms something that, cooked on a high heat, would be very tough, into something soft and tender.

Serves 4

4 lamb shanks, about 1kg (21⁄4 lb)

8 small sprigs of rosemary

8 garlic slivers

4 anchovy fillets, halved

salt and freshly ground black pepper

For Braising

30g (1oz) duck fat or olive oil

225g (8oz) streaky bacon

2 carrots, roughly chopped

2 celery stalks, roughly chopped

1 leek, roughly chopped

1 onion, roughly chopped

1 garlic head, halved horizontally

225ml (8fl oz) bottle good red wine

300ml (1⁄2 pint) lamb stock or chicken stock

sprig of thyme

2 sprigs of rosemary

2 bay leaves

2 strips of dried orange peel

Accompaniment

1 x Tomato Fondue

1 x 400g (14oz) tin cannellini beans, drained or 200g (7oz) dried cannellini beans, soaked overnight and then boiled rapidly for 30 minutes

600ml (1 pint) homemade chicken stock or lamb stock

2 sprigs of thyme

leaves from 2 sprigs of rosemary, chopped

sprigs of rosemary, for garnish

Preheat the oven to 150ºC/300ºF/gas mark 2.

 

Scalloped Potato with Steak and Kidney

From Forgotten Skills of Cooking by Darina Allen

 

This is an economical and enormously comforting dish. We used to ask my mother to make it when we came home from college on winter weekends. You can do lots of variations on the theme; streaky bacon is particularly good and shoulder of lamb would also be delicious.

Serves 4–6

1 beef kidney, about 450g (1lb)

salt and freshly ground pepper

450g (1lb) well-hung stewing beef (I use round, flank or even lean shin)

1.3kg (3lb) ‘old’ potatoes – Golden Wonders or Kerr’s Pinks, thickly sliced

350g (12oz) onions, chopped

50g (2oz) butter, or more

370ml (13fl oz) beef stock or hot water

Garnish

freshly chopped parsley

large, oval casserole, 2.3 litre (4 pint) capacity

Preheat the oven to 150ºC/300ºF/ gas mark 2.

Remove the skin and white core from the kidney and discard. Cut the flesh of the kidneys into 1cm (1⁄2 in) cubes; put them into a bowl, cover with cold water and sprinkle with a good pinch of salt. Cut the beef into 5mm (1⁄4 in) cubes. Put a layer of potato slices at the base of the casserole. Drain the kidney cubes and mix them with the beef slices, then scatter some of the meat and chopped onions over the layer of potato.

Season well with salt and freshly ground pepper, dot with butter, add another layer of potato, more meat, onions and seasoning and continue right up to the top of the casserole. Finish with an overlapping layer of potato. Pour in the hot stock or water. Bring to the boil, cover and transfer to the oven, and cook for 2–21⁄2 hours or until the meat and potatoes are cooked. Remove the lid of the saucepan about 15 minutes from end of the cooking time to brown the top slightly.

Sprinkle with chopped parsley and serve in deep plates with lots of butter.

Epigrams

From Forgotten Skills of Cooking by Darina Allen

 

A simple way to turn a very cheap piece of meat into something delicious.

Makes 12–16

900g (2lb) lap of lamb or trimmings from the streaky end of a rack of lamb

plain flour, seasoned with salt and freshly ground pepper

beaten organic egg

fresh white breadcrumbs

Preheat the oven to 180ºC/350ºF/ gas mark 4.

Cut the lamb into pieces about 7.5cm (3 inch) wide and 10cm (4 inch) long (size isn’t crucial here, but they shrink as they cook so don’t cut them too small). Dip each piece in well-seasoned flour, then in beaten egg and finally into breadcrumbs. Transfer to a roasting tin and cook in a single layer for 30–45 minutes, depending on size. They should be crisp and golden. Turn once or twice during cooking so they crisp up evenly on each side.

Serve with sauce paloise (like a béarnaise, but made with mint), onion sauce, mint and apple, or redcurrant jelly.

Mashed Potato

 

Cooking the potatoes in their jackets keeps in the flavours. They are also easier and less wasteful to peel.

 

Serves 4

 

2 lbs (900g) unpeeled potatoes, preferably Golden Wonders or Kerr’s Pinks

1/2 pint (300ml) creamy milk

1-2 ozs (25-50g) butter

 

Scrub the potatoes well. Put them into a saucepan of cold water, add a good pinch of salt and bring to the boil. When the potatoes are about half cooked, 15 minutes approx. for ‘old’ potatoes, strain off two-thirds of the water, replace the lid on the saucepan, put on to a gentle heat and allow the potatoes to steam until they are cooked. Peel immediately by just pulling off the skins, so you have as little waste as possible, mash while hot.

 

While the potatoes are being peeled, bring about 1/2 pint (300ml) of milk to the boil. (Use a two pronged carving fork so they don’t break and gently pull off the skin so there is minimum waste – we feed the skins to the hens). Add enough boiling creamy milk to mix to a soft light consistency suitable for piping, and then beat in the butter, the amount depending on how rich you like your potatoes. Taste and season with salt and freshly ground pepper.

 

Beef Stock

 

Makes about 3.5 litres (6 pints)

 

2.7kg (6 lb) beef bones or more if you have them, preferably with some scraps of meat on them, cut into small pieces

2 large onions, quartered

2 large carrots, quartered

2 celery stalks, cut into chunks

10 peppercorns

2 cloves

4 unpeeled garlic cloves

1 teaspoon concentrated tomato purée

large bouquet garni, including parsley stalks, bay leaf, sprigs of thyme and a sprig of tarragon

 

Preheat the oven to 230ºC/450ºF/gas mark 8.

 

Put the bones into a roasting tin and roast them for 30 minutes, until nicely browned. Add the onions, carrots and celery and return to the oven until the vegetables are coloured at the edges. Transfer the bones and vegetables to the stockpot with a metal spoon. Add the peppercorns, cloves, garlic, tomato purée and bouquet garni.

 

Degrease the roasting pan and deglaze with about 300ml (1⁄2 pint) of water. Bring to the boil and then pour over the bones and vegetables in the stockpot. Add enough additional water to cover the bones, about 4.6 litres (8 pints). Bring slowly to the boil. Skim the stock and simmer gently for 5 – 6 hours, topping up with water if necessary. Strain the stock, leave it to cool and skim off all the fat before use.

 

Fool Proof Food

Rustic Roast Potatoes

 

Serves 4-6

 

So quick and easy. Just scrub the spuds well. Don’t bother to peel.

 

6 large ‘old’ potatoes eg. Golden Wonder or Kerrs Pinks

Olive oil or beef dripping (unless for Vegetarians)-duck or goose fat are also delicious

Sea salt

 

Preheat the oven to 230

 

°C/450°

F/regulo 8. Scrub the potatoes well, cut into quarters lengthways or cut into thick rounds 3/4 inch (2cm) approx. Put into a roasting tin, drizzle with olive oil and toss so they are barely coated with olive oil. Roast in a preheated oven for 30-45 minutes depending on size. Sprinkle with sea salt and serve in a hot terracotta dish.

 

 

Hottips

Meet two of France’s leading winemakers – Pascal Verhaege of Château du Cèdre, Cahors and Luc de Conti of Château Tour des Gendres, Bergerac at the Wines of Southwest France Dinner. Taste their critically acclaimed wines, matched with a menu inspired by the hearty, regional cooking of the French southwest. On Tuesday 16^{th March 2010 at 8 pm at the Exchequer Room Fallon & Byrne, Dublin 2, tickets are available at €65 per person. To book phone David Gallagher 01 4721012 – wine@fallonandbyrne.com.}

The Gracey family have been farming on Forthill Farm in Tandragee, Co Armagh since the 1700s. Kenny and Jennifer Gracey opened their farm shop towards the end of 2008. They sell their own meat from their Belted Galloway and Longhorn Cattle that produces beautiful marbled tender beef that is hung on the bone for a minimum of 21 days. Their pork sausages are delicious made with 80 percent meat from their prize winning herd of Saddleback and Gloucestshire Old Spot Pigs. Telephone 0044 (0) 28 38840818, email info@forthillfarm.co.uk.

During these recessionary times we’re racking our brains to come up with thrifty ways of having fun and improving our quality of life without breaking the bank. Every year when we plan our course schedule for Ballymaloe Cookery School we come up with some new ideas. One of my favourites this year is ‘Grow your own Party or Wedding with Sarah Raven’ – whom many of you will know from BBC Gardeners World and her columns in The Daily Telegraph, Gardens Illustrated, Gardeners’ World Magazine. The idea is to plan ahead so you can grow as much of the produce and as many of the flowers as possible for your own wedding or party. Sounds daunting, but you know, with a bit of forward planning its absolutely achievable even for those who don’t reckon to have green fingers. Can you imagine the delight and satisfaction of filling your home and church with beautiful bouquets of home-grown flowers? Apart from saving money, garden flowers are so beautiful and fragrant and even simple flowers like primroses, sweet pea and cornflowers can be utterly charming. You can even crystallize the flowers to decorate the wedding cake and then of course there’s the food. Sarah will give suggestions and recipes for several menus for Spring, Summer, Autumn, and Winter weddings, with lots of great images and ideas.

Then you can choose your favourite menu and with Sarah’s advice you can grow the vegetables, salad, herbs and even berries and fruit. Can you imagine how much fun you’ll have and more importantly how much extra money you will have to spend on bubbles and fizz. Sarah’s ‘Grow your own Party or Wedding’ course is on Tuesday 30^{th March For those who are eager to learn more about vegetable gardening, Sarah will teach her brilliant ‘How to Grow Year Round Vegetables’ Monday 29th March, 2010. Meanwhile here is a suggestion for a Spring wedding menu. www.foodforliving.ie or contact Lucy on 086 8179964}

Spinach and Rosemary Soup with Heart Shaped Croutons

Fish Mousse with Shrimp Beurre Blanc

Slow Roasted Shoulder of Lamb with New Potatoes, Roast Beetroot and a Salad of Organic Greens and Flowers from your Garden

Goats Cheese with Honey and Rocket Leaves

Rhubarb and Strawberry Compote with Shortbread Sweethearts

 

 

Spinach and Rosemary Soup

 

Serves 6-8

 

The trick with these green soups is not to add the greens until the last minute, otherwise they will overcook and the soup will lose its fresh taste and bright green colour. For a simple spinach soup, omit the rosemary and add a little freshly grated nutmeg with the seasoning.

 

50g (2oz) butter

110g (4oz) onion, chopped

150g (5oz) potatoes, chopped

225-350g (8-12oz) spinach, destalked and chopped

600ml (1 pint) homemade chicken stock, vegetable stock or water

425-600ml (3/4-1 pint) creamy milk (1/4 cream and 3/4 milk)

salt and freshly ground pepper

1 tablespoon fresh rosemary, chopped

 

Garnish

 

2 tablespoons whipped cream (optional)

sprig of rosemary or rosemary flowers

 

Melt the butter in a heavy-bottomed saucepan. When it foams add the onions and potatoes and turn them until well coated. Sprinkle with salt and freshly ground pepper. Cover and sweat on a gentle heat for 10 minutes. Add the boiling stock and milk bring back to the boil and simmer until the potatoes and onions are fully cooked. Add the spinach and boil with the lid off for about 3-5 minutes, until the spinach is tender. Do not overcook or the soup will lose its fresh green colour. Add the chopped rosemary.

Liquidise and taste. Serve in warm bowls garnished with a blob of whipped cream and a sprig of rosemary. If you have a pretty rosemary bush in bloom, sprinkle a few flowers over the top for extra pizzazz or use your heart shaped croutons.

Heart Shaped Croutons

 

Serves 4

1 slice of slightly stale pan bread, 5mm (1/4 inch) thick

Sunflower or olive oil

With the help of a heart shaped pastry cutter, stamp out your shapes neatly.

Heat the sunflower or olive oil in a frying pan, it should be at least 2cm (3/4 inch) deep and quite hot..

Add the croutons to the hot oil. They will colour almost immediately, so turn quickly to achieve a golden colour on both sides. Immediately remove from the pan, drain on kitchen paper and keep warm. Allow the oil to cool, strain and save for another use later.

 

Note:

Croutons may be made several hours ahead or even a day. The oil may be flavoured with sprigs of rosemary, thyme or onion.

 

 

Fish Mousse with Shrimp Beurre Blanc

This recipe makes a large number of light fish mousses. It’s a favourite on our menu and can be served with many sauces. Even though the mousse is light it is also very rich, so it’s vital to cook it in small ramekins. They can be done in several batches as the raw mixture keeps perfectly overnight, covered in a cold fridge. Cooked crab meat, oysters, prawns, periwinkles or a tiny dice of cucumber could be added to a Beurre blanc sauce to serve with them.

Serves 16-20 as a starter

12 ozs (340 g) very fresh fillets of whiting or Pollock, skinned and totally free of bone or membrane

1 teaspoon salt

Pinch of freshly ground white pepper

1 large egg, preferably free-range and 1 egg white or 2 whole eggs

Generous 1¼ pints (750 ml) cream, chilled

Beurre blanc sauce recipe x 2

4-8 ozs (110-225 g) peeled cooked shrimps

¼ oz (8 g) butter

Garnish

Sprigs of chervil

Whole cooked shrimps (optional)

Ramekins 2½ fl ozs (65 ml) capacity, 2 inches (5 cm) x 1 inch (2.5 cm) deep

Cut the whiting fillets into small dice, purée in the chilled bowl of a food processor, add the salt and freshly ground pepper and then add the egg and egg white and continue to purée until it is well incorporated. Rest and chill in the fridge for 30 minutes.

Meanwhile, line the ramekins with pure Clingfilm or brush with melted butter. When the fish is well chilled and has rested for approx 30 minutes. Turn on the processor and pour the cream steadily down the tube of the food processor. Stop immediately when the cream is incorporated. Check seasoning. Fill the mousse into the moulds and put them in a bain Marie. Cover with a pricked sheet of tinfoil or greaseproof paper. Bring the water in the bain Marie just to boiling point, put it in the oven at 200C/400f/regulo 6 and bake for 20-30 minutes. The mousses should feel just firm in the centre and will keep perfectly for 20-30 minutes in a plate-warming oven.

Meanwhile make the Beurre blanc sauce and keep warm. When the mousses are cooked remove them to a warm place and leave to rest. Toss the shrimps in a very little foaming butter until hot through, add them to the sauce, taste and correct seasoning: the sauce should be very thin and light. Pour a little hot sauce on to each plate, unmold a mousse, place it in the centre and garnish with shrimps and sprigs of fresh chervil.

Note: It is vital to season the raw mixture well; otherwise the mousse will taste bland.

 

Beurre Blanc Sauce

Makes about 250ml (8fl oz)

Serve 2 -3 tablespoons per person

Beurre blanc should be served with poached fish, not pan-fried or pan-grilled fish.

3 tablespoons dry white wine

3 tablespoons white wine vinegar

1 tablespoon finely chopped shallots

pinch of ground white pepper

1 tablespoon cream

175g (6oz) unsalted butter, diced

salt, freshly ground pepper

freshly squeezed lemon juice

Put the first four ingredients into a stainless steel saucepan over a medium heat. Bring to the boil and reduce down to about a tablespoon. Add 1 generous tablespoon of cream and reduce again until the cream begins to thicken. Whisk in the chilled butter a piece at the time, keeping the sauce just warm enough to absorb the butter. Season with salt, taste and add a little lemon juice if necessary. Transfer to a Pyrex bowl over a saucepan of hot but not boiling water. Keep warm until needed.

Useful Tip

Keep warm in a flask until needed. Beurre blanc can curdle if the pan gets too hot. If this should happen put 1-2 tablespoons of cream into a clean saucepan, reduce to about half, then vigorously whisk in the curdled mixture, little by little. Serve as quickly as possible. The flavour will be a little ‘softer’ so a little more lemon juice may be needed to sharpen it up and cut the richness.

A re-emulsified sauce will not be as stable as an original. Leftover beurre blanc will

solidify as it cools. It may be used to enrich fish sauces or mashed potato.

Slow Roasted Shoulder of Lamb

 

Serves 8-10 approximately.

 

A shoulder of lamb is much trickier to carve than a leg, but the flavour is so wonderfully sweet and juicy, it’s certainly worth the struggle particularly at home where perfect slices of meat are not obligatory. I sometimes put this into the low oven of the Aga in the morning. By 7.30 pm in the evening, it is beautifully cooked – how easy is that!

 

1 shoulder of lamb 3.3-3.6kg (7-8lbs) on the bone

Extra virgin olive oil

salt and freshly ground pepper

 

Gravy

600ml (1 pint) homemade lamb or chicken stock

 

Roux, optional

 

Score the skin of the meat in a diamond pattern with a sharp knife. Sprinkle the meat with salt and freshly ground pepper and drizzle with olive oil, roast in a low oven 140°C/275°F/gas mark 1 in the usual way for 6-7 hours – this gives a delicious juicy succulent texture. Alternatively cook in a moderate oven 180°C/350°F/gas mark 4 for 2 – 2 1/2 hours. Carve it into thick slices. Serve with light gravy.

 

To make the gravy

: Spoon the fat off the roasting tin. Add the stock into the remaining cooking juice. Boil for a few minutes, stirring and scraping the pan well, to dissolve the caramelised meat juices I find a small whisk ideal for this. Allow to thicken with a very little roux if you like.

 

Taste and add salt and freshly ground pepper if necessary. Strain and serve the gravy separately in a gravy boat.

 

Serve with new potatoes and a garden salad with edible spring flowers.

 

 

 

New Potatoes with Mint

Serves 4-5

2 lbs (900g) new potatoes eg, Home Guard, British Queens

2 pints (1.2 litres) water

1 teaspoon salt

a sprig of mint

Bring the water to the boil. Scrub the potatoes. Add salt and a sprig of mint to the water, and then add the potatoes. Cover the saucepan, bring back to the boil and cook for 15-25 minutes depending on size.

Drain and serve immediately in a hot serving dish.

Note

It’s vitally important for flavour to add salt to the water when cooking potatoes.

 

 

Rhubarb Compote

When I had stewed rhubarb as a child, we just put the rhubarb into a pan with a little water and sugar, and stewed it to a mush, but now I’m frightfully fussy about keeping the pieces of rhubarb whole. This recipe is the way to do that, because the fruit is

just brought to the boil and then left to stew in the hot syrup. If it does turn to a mush though, just make it into a fool. Some people like orange with their rhubarb. I’ve never been tempted by that combination, but I can quite easily indulge in rhubarb and ginger.

Serves 4

450g (1lb) red rhubarb, e.g. Timperley early

450ml (16fl oz) stock syrup

Cut the rhubarb into 2.5cm (1 inch) pieces. Put the cold syrup into a stainless steel saucepan, add the rhubarb, cover, bring to the boil and simmer for just 1 minute (no longer or it will dissolve). Turn off the heat and leave the rhubarb in the

covered saucepan to finish cooking, and then cool.

Variation

Rhubarb and Strawberry or Raspberry Compote

A truly gorgeous combination. Hull and halve lengthways 225–450g (1⁄2 –1lb) fresh strawberries – Cambridge Favourite or Cambridge Vigour are good. When the rhubarb compote is almost cool, add the strawberries and stir gently.

Alternatively, add 225g (1⁄2lb) whole raspberries at the same stage.

Shortbread Sweethearts

I am a big fan of this simple shortbread recipe. Measure the ingredients accurately and you will have no problems. The biscuits can be served with tea or coffee, with fruit fools and mousses or sandwiched with seasonal fruit and cream to make a more complicated confection. The biscuits will keep fresh in a tin for a couple of days.

Makes 20 biscuits

6oz (170g) plain white flour

4 oz (110g) butter

2 oz (50g) caster sugar

Put the flour in a bowl and rub in the butter and sugar until it resembles coarse bread crumbs. Keep going and it will come together into a mass. Knead lightly to form a smooth dough. Do not be tempted to add any liquid. If you have measured the ingredients accurately it will work. Chill at this point if you wish or roll out on a floured surface to a thickness of 1/4 inch (7mm). Cut out the shapes with a heart shaped pastry cutter and transfer to a baking tray. Gather up the trimmings, lightly shake off the excess flour and roll and shape again. Bake in a moderate oven, 180°C/350°F/Gas Mark 4 until a pale golden colour. Immediately remove from the baking sheet and place on a wire rack to cool. If you leave them on the oven tray they will stick and burn.

The biscuits can be simply served with a light dusting of caster or icing sugar.

For a more involved presentation, sandwich together with whipped cream and sugared seasonal fruit.

The dough can also be baked in tartlet tins of your choice and filled with seasonal fruit, jam and cream or whatever takes your fancy.

Fool Proof Food

Crystallized Flowers

Flowers and leaves crystallized with sugar will keep for months, although they may lose their initial vibrant colour. This is what we call a high-stool job – definitely a labour of love and not something suited to an impatient, type A personality. The end result is both beautiful and rewarding and many family and staff wedding cakes have been embellished with crystallized flowers over the years.

Flowers and leaves must be edible and are all worth doing.

Smaller flowers are more attractive when crystallized eg. primroses, violets, apple blossom, viola’s, rose petals….We crystallize lots of leaves as well as flowers so one can make attractive arrangements. Use fairly strong textured leaves – e.g. mint, lemon balm, sweet cicely, wild strawberry, salad burnet or marguerite daisy leaves.

The caster sugar must be absolutely dry; one could dry it in a low oven for about 30 minutes approx.

Break up the egg white slightly in a little bowl with a fork. Using a child’s paintbrush, paint the egg white very carefully over each petal and into every crevice. Pour the caster sugar over the flower with a teaspoon. Arrange the crystallized flowers carefully on silicone paper so that they retain a good shape. Leave to dry overnight in a warm, dry place such as close to an Aga, over a radiator or in an airing cupboard. When properly crystallized, these flowers will last for months, even years, provided they are kept dry. We store them in a pottery jar or a tin box.

Hottips

For those of you who were disappointed when cookery classes were cancelled at Brennan’s because of the floods in Cork city take heart Lucy Hyland teams up with chef Gary Masterson at Brennan’s Cookery School on the 4th, 11th and the 25th March, where they will cover the five principals of healthy living with delicious recipes. Cost €48. For further information see 

Irish Raw Milk Cheese Presidia ( IRMCP)

– Slow Food Taste Workshop- Friday 26th February 2010 at 7pm at Donnybrook Fair Cookery School. Taste Workshop, followed by informal cheesemaker tastings Places are limited, so please book in advance with Elisabeth Ryan eryan@sheridanscheesemongers.com – 086 394 9270

Close to a hundred people crammed into our local village hall recently for the inaugural meeting of GIY (Grow it Yourself) Shanagarry, East Cork.

The organisers had hoped for 25 – maybe 30 people but by 8 o’clock the original meeting room was bulging at the seams so we had to decamp down the stairs to the Badminton Hall. It was just about large enough to fit the throng of people eager to hear more about the new initiative that is engaging people from Dingle to Drogheda to Dublin. A few positive things have emerged from this recession, many of us have come to realise just how vulnerable we have become and how little control we have over our lives. Suddenly we appreciate the value of a degree of self sufficiency, how lovely it is to sit down to a plate of food where even one or two items come from your own garden or back yard. Suddenly there is an unprecedented interest in producing your own food preferably organic or at least chemical free not only in back gardens but also allotments and community gardens. So no surprise to learn that in this new era vegetable seeds are outselling flower seeds for the third year in a row.

Unfortunately just when we badly need the know-how there is a deficit of practical expertise. As individuals and a society we have to a great extent lost the knowledge and skills that any of our grandfathers and great grandfathers would have taken for granted. Yet there is a deep craving to learn once more.

GIY Ireland was founded almost by accident by Michael Kelly – a well known author and journalist – Michael and his wife Eilish wanted to rear their family in the country so they moved to Dunmore East from Dublin five years ago. They bought a cottage on an acre of land and began to settle in. They had a vague notion that it would be nice to grow a few veggies, maybe keep a few chickens and in time maybe get a pig. They had bundles of enthusiasm but not a notion of how to go about starting. They scarcely knew what a digging fork looked like not to speak of how to sow a seed. But where could you find out? Michael thought that there must be an organisation that like the ICA (Irish Country Women’s Association) or the Flower Club who could help, but their emphasis was different. Neither was the IFA (Irish Farmers Association) interested in sowing a handful of spuds or a row of broad beans. Gardening books often assumed too much knowledge. Eventually Michael linked up with a couple of others who were desperately seeking out all of that. They helped to dig each others garden and swapped seedlings and plants and shared tips, triumphs and disasters.

Out of the experience was born an organisation that is sweeping across Ireland called Grow it Yourself. In less that a year almost 50 groups have started around the country. It’s very simple, a not-for-profit organisation which takes the ‘I’ out of Grow it Yourself. GIY membership and meetings are free and open to all amateur growers from all walks of life – urban and rural – young and old, novice and expert, back garden or allotment.

Each month groups meet nationwide in public venues to exchange tips, knowledge and war stories about vegetable growing.

The first National GIY week will be from Saturday 20th to Saturday 27^{th February, 2010. For details of events around the country check www.giyireland.com www.cookingisfun.ie}

Spiced Lentil and Carrot Soup

This soup is really fast to make and has lots of flavour – perfect for a winter lunch or supper.

Serves 4

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

2 teaspoons cumin seeds

1/4-1/2 teaspoon chilli flakes

600g (1lb 5oz) carrots peeled and grated

140g (5oz) red lentils

1.35 litres (2 1/4 pints) chicken or vegetable stock

125 ml (4 fl oz) milk

salt and freshly ground pepper

Garnish

4 tablespoons approximately natural yoghurt

fresh coriander leaves

extra virgin olive oil

Pitta bread

Heat the oil in a stainless steel saucepan over a medium heat; add the cumin seeds and chilli flakes. Stir for a minute or so, add the grated carrot, lentils, stock and milk. Bring to the boil, season with salt and freshly ground pepper, then simmer for about 15 minutes or until the carrots and lentils are completely soft. Purée in a liquidiser until smooth, add a little more stock if it’s too thick. Taste and correct the seasoning.

Serve in hot bowls with a blob of natural yoghurt, some fresh coriander leaves and a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil on top. Pitta breads makes a good accompaniment.

Roast Jerusalem Artichokes (Slices)

This winter vegetable is particularly good with goose, duck or pheasant.

 

Serves 4 to 6

450g (1 lb) Jerusalem artichokes, well scrubbed.

2 tablespoons or olive oil

salt and freshly ground pepper

a few rosemary or thyme sprigs, optional

Preheat the oven to 400°F/200°C/ gas mark 6.

Slice the well scrubbed artichokes into 7mm (1/3 inch) rounds. Toss the Jerusalem artichokes with the extra virgin olive oil. Season well with salt. Arrange in a single layer on silicone paper on a roasting tin. Roast for 10 minutes or until golden on 1 side then flip over and cook on the other side. Test with the tip of a knife – they should be tender. Sprinkle with thyme or rosemary. Season with pepper and serve.

Shin of Beef and Oxtail Stew

Another humble dish, which has recently been resurrected by trendy chefs capitalising on their customers’ nostalgic craving for Granny’s cooking. Oxtail, or the tail of a beef animal, makes an extraordinarily rich and flavoursome winter soup or stew. If you prefer, you can cover and cook this very gently on top of the stove rather than in an oven.

Serves 8

175g (6oz) streaky bacon

2 oxtails, about 450–600g (1–1 1⁄4lb) each, cut into segments

450g (1lb) stewing beef

25g (1oz) beef dripping or

2 tablespoons olive oil

225g (8oz) onions, finely chopped

225g (8oz) carrots cut into 2cm (3⁄4 in) cubes

50g (2oz) celery, chopped

150ml (1⁄4 pint) red wine and

425ml (3⁄4 pint) beef stock OR 600ml (1 pint) all beef stock

1 bay leaf, 1 sprig of thyme and parsley stalks

1 tablespoon concentrated tomato purée

salt and freshly ground pepper

175g (6oz) mushrooms, sliced

25g (1oz) butter

10g (1⁄2 oz) roux

2 tablespoons parsley, chopped

Preheat oven to 160ºC/325ºF/gas mark 3.

Cut the bacon into 2.5cm (1in) cubes, cut the oxtail into joints and cut the beef into 4cm (11⁄2in cubes). Heat the dripping or olive oil in a frying pan, add the bacon and sauté for 1–2 minutes, then add the onions, carrots and celery and cook for 2–3 minutes, stirring occasionally. Transfer the bacon and vegetables into a casserole. Now add the beef and oxtail pieces to the frying pan, a few at a time and continue to cook. When the meat begins to brown, add it to the casserole. Then add the wine and 150ml (1⁄4 pint) of the beef stock to the frying pan. Bring to the boil and use a whisk to dissolve the caramelised meat juices from the pan. Add to the casserole with the herbs, the rest of the stock and the tomato purée. Season with salt and freshly ground pepper.

Cover and transfer to the oven. Cook very gently for 3–4 hours, or until the oxtail is falling off the bones and the vegetables are very tender.

Meanwhile, cook the sliced mushrooms in a hot frying pan in a little butter for 2–3 minutes and season with salt and freshly ground pepper. Stir into the oxtail stew and cook for about 5 minutes. Strain the liquid from the meat and vegetables, and keep them warm in a hot serving dish while you thicken the broth. Remove and discard the bay leaves, thyme and parsley stalks.

Bring the cooking liquid back to the boil, whisk in a little roux and cook until slightly thickened. Add back in the meat and vegetables. Add the chopped parsley and bring to the boil. Taste and correct the seasoning. Serve in the hot serving dish with lots of Champ or Colcannon

Swede Turnips with Caramelised Onions

Serves 6 approx.

900g (2lbs) Swede turnips

salt and lots of freshly ground pepper

50-110g (2-4 oz) butter

Garnish

finely chopped parsley

Peel the turnip thickly in order to remove the thick outside skin. Cut into 2cm (3/4 inch) cubes approx. Put into a high sided saucepan. Cover with water. Add a good pinch of salt, bring to the boil and cook until soft – this can take between 45-60 minutes. Strain off the excess water, mash the turnips well and beat in the butter. Taste and season with lots of freshly ground pepper and more salt if necessary. Garnish with parsley and serve piping hot.

Caramelised Onions

450g (1lb) onions, thinly sliced

2-3 tablespoons olive oil

Heat the olive oil in a heavy saucepan. Toss in the onions and cook over a low heat for whatever length of time it takes for them to soften and caramelize to a golden brown, 30-45 minutes approx.

 

Beetroot and Walnut Cake

Serves 10

3 free-range organic eggs

150ml (5 fl oz) sunflower oil

50g (2oz) soft brown sugar

150g (5oz) white or spelt flour

1 teaspoon baking powder

pinch of salt

100g (4oz) beetroot, grated

60g (2 1/4 oz) sultanas

60g (2 1/4 oz) walnuts, coarsely chopped

Icing

175g (6oz) icing sugar

3-4 tablespoons water to bind

To Decorate

deep-fried beetroot (see below)

pumpkin seeds

1 loaf tin 13 x 20cm (5 x 8inch)

Preheat the oven to 180º/350°F/Gas Mark 4.

Line a loaf tin with a butter paper or baking parchment.

In a bowl, whisk together the eggs, oil and sugar until smooth. Sift in the flour and baking powder, add a pinch of salt and gently mix into the egg mixture. Stir in the grated beetroot, sultanas and walnuts. Pour into the prepared tin. Bake for 45-50 minutes or until a skewer comes out clean. Cool on a wire rack.

Next make the icing.

Sieve the icing sugar, beat in the water gradually to a stiff consistency. Spread evenly over the cake, allow to drizzle down the sides, leave for 5 minutes and scatter with deep-fried beetroot (see below) and pumpkin seeds.

 

To Deep-fry Beetroot

Peel the outer skin off the beetroot. Using a peeler, slice thin rings of the beetroot. Allow to dry on kitchen paper for 20 minutes. Deep-fry until crispy.

 

Ottolenghi’s Carrot and Walnut Cake

We used two 8 inch cake tins and then sandwiched the two cakes with the icing as well as the top – it was light and delicious.

 

Serves 6-8

160g (5 1/2oz) plain flour

1/2 teaspoon baking powder

1/2 teaspoon baking soda

1 teaspoon cinnamon

1/4 teaspoon clove

1 organic egg yolk

1 large organic egg

200ml (7fl oz) sunflower oil

275g (10oz) castor sugar

50g (2oz) chopped walnuts

50g (2oz) desiccated coconut

135g (4 1/2oz) roughly grated carrot

2 organic egg whites 

pinch of salt

Icing

175g (6oz) cream cheese

75g (3oz) unsalted butter

35g (1 1/4oz) icing sugar

25g (1oz) honey

25g (1oz) chopped and lightly toasted walnuts

 

Preheat oven to 180ºC/350°/Gas Mark 3 1/2.

Grease 2 x 20cm (8 inch) loose-base cake tin and cover the bottom and sides with greaseproof paper.

Sift together the flour, baking powder, baking soda and spices.

Lightly whisk together the 1 yolk with the 1 whole egg. Set the whites aside.

In a mixer bowl with the beater attachment beat together the oil and sugar for about a minute. On a low speed slowly add the yolk and egg mix. Add the nuts and carrot and then the sifted dry ingredients. Don’t over-mix. Remove from the mixer bowl into another large bowl.

Make sure the mixer bowl is totally clean before pouring in the eggs whites with a pinch of salt and whisking on high speed until firm peaks form.

Gently fold the egg whites into the carrot mix in 3 additions. Do not over mix. Streaks of whites in the mix are ok.

Pour the cake mix into the prepared tins and bake in the preheated oven for approximately 40 to 45 minutes. It could take longer. A skewer would come out totally dry when inserted in the middle of the cake.

If the cake starts going dark while the centre is not cooked cover with foil.

Once ready, let the cake cool down totally and remove from the tin.

To make the icing

, bring the cheese to room temperature and beat up in a mixer until light and smooth. Remove from mixer. Beat the butter, icing sugar and honey in the mixer until light and airy. Fold together the cheese and butter mixes.

Spread waves of icing on top of the cake and sprinkle with nuts.

 

Fool Proof Food

Refrigerator Cookies

Makes 50 approximately

225g (8oz) butter

225g (8oz) caster sugar

1 organic egg

1 tablespoon double cream

300g (10oz) plain flour

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon baking powder

pure vanilla extract (or lemon juice or ground ginger)

Extra sugar

Cream the butter and caster sugar in a bowl, then add the beaten egg, cream, flour, salt, baking powder and vanilla extract. Shape the dough into a long roll or rolls, about 5cm (2 inches or smaller if you prefer) in diameter, and wrap in silicone paper or foil. Chill in the refrigerator until the next day.

Preheat the oven to 190ºC/375ºF/Gas Mark 5.

Cut the dough into thin rounds. Arrange well apart on 1 baking tray. Sprinkle them with sugar and cook for about 10 – 12 minutes in the preheated oven; they should remain pale in colour. Transfer to a wire rack. There is no need to bake the dough all at once; cut off what you need and put it back in the refrigerator until you fancy another bicci.

If you would like different flavours, divide the dough into three, and flavour each mixture differently.

Thrifty Tip

Split the contents of your different vegetable and herb seed packets with friends.

Hottips

Cork Free Choice Consumer Group

presents Middle-Eastern Vegetarian Foods

Ann Crowley and contributors from Morocco and Egypt will discuss the culture of vegetarianism in their countries and describe their favourite traditional recipes at the Crawford Art Gallery Café on Thursday 25th February at 7.30pm. The €6.00 entrance fee includes tea or coffee, recipes and tastings.

John and Sally McKenna – publishers of The Bridgestone Guides

are teaching a one day Food Writing Course at Ballymaloe Cookery School on Saturday 27th February, 2010.

If you think there is no more to food writing than the recipe ”n” restaurant concoctions of the weekend newspapers, then this course will be a revelation.

Whether your ambition is simply to write a blog, or to write your masterpiece, then knowing the work of great writers is one of the keys to understanding the artfulness and greatness that lies in writing about food. The course is also extremely practical, Sally McKenna will discuss how to create everything from the simplest blog to the mechanism behind lighting food for photography, or mastering page layout for your own book. To book phone 021 4646 785 or

I’m continually surprised by how thrown waiting staff in many restaurants seem to be if one asks about the provenance of the food. They immediately seem to go on the defensive and it can take three or four attempts to find out the source of a piece of meat, fish or cheese.

A recent attempt to identify a cheese on a salad in a Cork restaurant came back first as Irish, secondly as West Cork and eventually after I’d decided not to venture any further I was presented with the name of a Co-op in Co Tipperary. I’m still none the wiser about the name of the cheese or the cheese maker. Sadly nowadays – despite the fact that local is the hottest word in ‘the gastro’ vocabulary –the source of supply is more likely to be a multinational catering company than a local supplier not to speak of a farmer or fisherman.

Why aren’t more restaurants serving local food proudly? Those of us in the hospitality business depend on local people to support our restaurants and hotels, yet few enough consider it a priority or obligation to put some money back into the local community by supporting local butchers, bakers, farmers, cheese makers or vegetable and fruit growers. Those who do, generate tremendous good will for their business and hugely enhance the experience for their guests by incorporating local food in season and identifying the producer on their menu. This is a win win situation for both the customer and the producer. The latter gets the credit for the product and extra sales when satisfied customers go in search of the original next time they go shopping. Cork has a history of being proud of its own so Good Food Ireland Cork Week – from Monday 8^{th to Friday 12th February – gives us the perfect opportunity to showcase the bounty of Cork city and county.www.goodfoodireland.ie has tons of info on little gems around the country.}

 

 

Hottips

During the Good Food Ireland

Cork week (Monday 8th to Friday 12th February) Good Food Ireland Hotel and B&B members will offer three nights accommodation for the price of two.Fergus Henderson the owner of St John’s Restaurant

in London will give a cookery demonstration on ‘Nose to Tail’ eating at the Cookery School at Donnybrook Fair on Saturday 13th March from 10:30am to 1:30pm. The €100.00 fee includes tea/coffee on arrival, recipes, tastings and a glass of wine. Phone 01 6689674 or email ^{cookeryschool@donnybrookfair.ie to book.}

To mark the first Good Food Ireland Cork Week, restaurants and hotels, pubs and cafés all over Cork will serve a Good Food Ireland plate incorporating the food of the local Good Food Ireland members for €15.00 per plate including a glass of wine. There is an abundance of superb artisan produce in this area – free range chickens, ducks, geese, farmhouse cheeses, cured meats, honey and home cured hams and bacon, homemade sausages and even some day boat fish.

Good Food Ireland was founded by Margaret Jeffares in November 2006. It operates as a not-for-profit industry driven Irish food tourism organisation. It is the only industry group with an all island-food tourism strategy.

Good Food Ireland was founded to endorse and promote these places committed to local food and to link the food producer, farmer and fisherman with the hospitality sector. It’s brilliant for those of you who like to seek not only great places to eat but artisan produce and local Farmers Markets when they are travelling around the country. The Good Food Ireland food map pulls all the strands of the food jigsaw together The website

Kay Harte of the Farm Gate Restaurant in the English Market will offer her guests Millstreet Venison Casserole from Jack McCarthy Meats in Kanturk. Millstreet Country Park farmed venison is not as strong or gamey as the wild meat and is available fresh all year round.

Claire Nash of Nash 19 on Princes Street in Cork has had a Good Food Ireland plate on the menu since March 2009 with offers the produce of eight to ten artisan producers to a tremendous response from her customers.

The plates change daily and include Belly of Pork and Free Range Bacon from Crowes in Co Tipperary, Sliabh Luachra and Smoked Beef from Jack McCarthy Meats in Kanturk, a selection of smoked fish from the Burren Smoke House, charcuterie and cheese from Gubbeen in West Cork, Cooleeney Brie from Thurles, Co Tipperary, Inch Pudding from Thurles in Tipperary, Ardsallagh Goats Cheese from Carrigtwohill, Co Cork, Organic Millhouse Smoked Salmon from Geraldine Bass in Buttervant, Co Cork and Nash 19 chicken liver pate and Nash 19 organic brown bread made from Sowans Organic Flour.

Ballymaloe House will feature the produce of many local producers including Tom Clancy, Ballycotton Free-range Chicken, Noreen and Martin Conroy’s Woodside Farm Bacon and Bill Casey’s Shanagarry Smoked Salmon. So lets get out there and celebrate Good Food Ireland.

 

A Plate of Irish Charcuterie and Cured Meats

One of my favourite easy entertaining tricks is to serve a selection of Irish artisan charcuterie from inspired producers like Fingal Ferguson from West Cork, Jack and Tim McCarthy from Kanturk. The quality is so wonderful that I’m always bursting with pride as I serve it.

A selection of cured meats:

Air dried smoked Connemara lamb

Smoked venison

Prosciutto, Gubeen, Chorizo

Venison Salami

Smoked Beef

Sliabh Luachra Beef

A selection of:

Crusty country breads, sour dough, yeast and soda

Tiny gherkins or cornichons

Fresh radishes, just trimmed but with some green leaf attached

A good green salad of garden lettuce and salad leaves

Arrange the meats and potted meat on a large platter, open a good bottle of red and tuck in!

 

Chicken Liver Pâté

 

Nash 19 will serve their own chicken liver pate with their organic brown bread on their Good Food Ireland Plate.

A richly flavoured chicken liver pâté. Seek out organic livers.

Serves 4-6

75g (3oz) butter

100g (3 1/2oz) finely chopped shallot

1 clove garlic, crushed

225g (8oz) organic chicken livers

2 tablespoons brandy

1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

pinch of mixed spice

salt and freshly ground pepper

Melt 25g (1oz) butter in a saucepan, add the finely chopped shallot and crushed garlic. Cook on a low heat until soft but not coloured, 2-3 minutes. Add the chicken livers, cook for 4-5 minutes turning once or twice, add the brandy, allow to flame. When the flames die down, add the mustard, a pinch of mixed spice, salt and freshly ground black pepper. Put the whole lot into a food processor. Allow to cool. Add 50g (2oz) butter and whizz until smooth. Fill into ramekins, cover with a layer of clarified butter and then refrigerate until needed. Serve with hot thin toast.

 

Tom Clancy’s Roast Ballycotton Free-range Chicken with Herb and Woodside Bacon Stuffing

Serves 6

Tom’s chickens take 12 weeks to reach maturity. They are fed on special feed and range freely on his farm in Ballycotton and the flavour and texture is mouth watering.. Woodside Farm traditional pork and bacon products have developed a loyal following in a short time, a little crispy bacon added to the stuffing makes it extra delicious.

 

4 1/2 – 5 lbs (1.5 – 2.3kg) free range chicken, preferably organic

 

Giblet Stock

Giblets (keep the liver for a chicken liver pate)

1 thickly sliced carrot

1 thickly sliced onion

1 stick celery, sliced

a few parsley stalks and a sprig of thyme

 

Stuffing

4oz (110g) Woodside Farm Streaky Bacon cut into small cubes

1 1/2 ozs (45g) butter

3 ozs (75g) chopped onion

3-3 1/2 ozs (75-95g) soft white breadcrumbs

2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh herbs eg. parsley, thyme, chives and annual marjoram

salt and freshly ground pepper

a little soft butter

 

Gravy

1 – 1 1/2 pints (600-900mls) of stock from giblets or chicken stock

 

Garnish

Sprigs of flat parsley

 

First remove the wish bone from the neck end of the chicken, this is easily done by lifting back the loose neck, skin and cutting around the wish bone with a small knife – tug to remove, this isn’t at all essential but it does make carving much easier later on. Tuck the wing tips underneath the chicken to make a neat shape. Put the wish bone, giblets, carrot, onions, celery and herbs into a saucepan. Cover with cold water, bring to the boil, skin and simmer gently while the chicken is roasting. This is the basis of the gravy.

 

Heat 1 tablespoon of olive oil or sunflower oil in a frying pan, add the lardons of bacon, and cook until crisp and golden.

 

Next make the stuffing,

sweat the onions gently in the butter in a covered saucepan until soft, 10 minutes approx. then stir in the white bread crumbs, the freshly chopped herbs, a little salt and pepper to taste. Allow it to get quite cold unless you are going to cook the chicken immediately. If necessary wash and dry the cavity of the bird, then season and half fill with stuffing. Season the breast and legs, smear with a little soft butter.

 

Preheat the oven to 180°C/350°F/regulo4. Weight the chicken and allow about 20 minutes to the lb and 20 minutes over – put on middle shelf in oven. Baste a couple of times during the cooking with the buttery juices. The chicken is done when the juices are running clear.

 

To test prick the thickest part at the base of the thigh, hold a spoon underneath to collect the liquid, examine the juices – they should be clear.

 

Remove the chicken to a carving dish, keep it warm and allow to rest while you make the gravy.

 

To make the gravy

, tilt the roasting tin to one corner and spoon off the surplus fat from the juices and return the roasting pan to the stove. De glaze the pan juices with the fat free stock from the giblets and bones (you will need 1 1/2 pints depending on the size of the chicken). Using a whisk, stir and scrape well to dissolve the caramelized meat juices in the roasting pan. Boil it up well, season and thicken with a little roux if you like (the gravy should not be thick). Taste and correct seasoning, serve in a hot gravy boat.

If possible serve the chicken on a nice carving dish surrounded by crispy roast potatoes and some sprigs of flat parsley then arm yourself with a sharp knife and bring it to the table. Carve as best you can and try to organise it so that each person gets some brown and some white meat. Serve with gravy and bread sauce.

 

Use the cooked carcass for stock.

 

East Ferry Free Range Duck with Orange

 

Robbie and his wife Yvonne are third generation of the family to run traditional poultry at Easy Ferry, Midleton, Co Cork.

 

Serves 4

1 free range duck – 4 lb (1.8kg) in weight

3 brightly coloured oranges

3 tablespoons granulated sugar

2 1/2 fl ozs (63ml) red wine vinegar

2 1/2 fl ozs (63ml) red wine

1/2 pint (300ml) duck or chicken stock

4 fl ozs (110ml) Port

1/2 -1 tablespoon Grand Marnier

salt, pepper and a few drops of lemon juice

Garnish

sprigs of parsley or watercress

Scrub the oranges. Peel the zest from two with a swivel top peeler and cut two thirds into fine julienne strips, blanch and refresh. Season the duck cavity and the skin with salt and freshly ground pepper. Put the remaining one third of the orange peel into the cavity and transfer the duck to a hot oven, preheated to 220°C/425°F/regulo 7. Reduce the temperature to 180°C/350°F/regulo 4, after 30 minutes. Continue to roast for a further 30-45 minutes.

While the duck is roasting make a sweet and sour caramel.

Boil the sugar and vinegar over moderately high heat for several minutes until the mixture has turned a chestnut brown coloured syrup. Remove from the heat immediately and pour in 1/4 pint (150ml) of the stock. Simmer for a minute, stirring to dissolve the caramel. Then add the rest of the stock, port, wine and juice of one orange. Simmer until the sauce is clear and lightly thickened; add the orange liqueur little by little. Add the remainder of the orange julienne. Taste, correct the seasoning and sharpen with lemon juice if necessary, leave aside. The sauce may be prepared to this point several hours in advance. Cut the remaining 2 oranges into neat skinless segments and reserve for garnishing the duck.

When the duck is cooked, allow to rest in a warm oven for at least 10 minutes before carving. Carve neatly and arrange on a serving dish or individual plates. Garnish with the orange segments. Spoon some of the sauce over the duck and serve the rest separately in a sauce boat.

Garnish with sprigs of parsley or watercress.

 

Shrove Tuesday Pancakes with Orange Butter

 

Every Shrove Tuesday we make pancakes at the School, the students queue up to eat them hot from the pan, with much swapping of stories about how mothers made them – this year one was heard to remark ruefully – ‘my mother’s pancakes never tasted like these- these are delicious! In fact these are very nearly as good as Crepes Suzette but half the bother.

 

Serves 6 – makes 12 approx.

 

Pancake Batter

175g (6oz) white flour, preferably unbleached

A good pinch of salt

1 dessertspoon castor sugar

2 large eggs and 1 or 2 egg yolks, preferably free range

425ml (scant ¾ pint) milk, or for very crisp, light delicate pancakes, milk and water mixed

2 tablespoons melted butter

 

Orange Butter

175g (6oz) butter

3 teaspoons finely grated orange rind

200g (7oz) icing sugar

1 tablespoon Grand Marnier (optional)

 

Freshly squeezed juice of 5 oranges

 

8 inch (20.5cm) non-stick crepe pan

 

First make the batter. Sieve the flour, salt, and sugar into a bowl, make a well in the centre and drop in the eggs. With a whisk or wooden spoon, starting in the centre, mix the egg and gradually bring in the flour from the sides. Add the liquid slowly and beat until the batter is covered with bubbles. (If they are to be served with sugar and lemon juice, stir in an extra tablespoon of castor sugar and the finely grated rind of half a lemon).

Let the batter stand in a cold place for an hour or so – longer will do no harm. Just before you cook the pancakes stir in 2 tablespoons melted butter. This will make all

the difference to the flavour and texture of the pancakes and will make it possible to cook them without greasing the pan each time.

Next make the Orange butter.

Cream the butter with the finely grated orange rind. Then add the sifted icing sugar and beat until fluffy, add the orange liqueur if using.

Make the pancakes in the usual way.

Heat a non stick pan until very hot, pour in just enough batter to cover the base when you tilt and swirl the pan. Put the pan back on the heat; loosen the pancake around the edge with a non metal slice. Flip over, cook for a few seconds on the reverse side. Slide over onto a plate. Repeat until all the batter has been used up.

Pancakes and orange butter can be make ahead and finished later. The pancakes will keep overnight covered in a fridge. They will peel apart easily – no need to interleaf them with greaseproof paper.

 

To Serve:

Melt a large blob of the Orange butter in the pan, add some freshly squeezed orange juice and toss the pancakes in the foaming butter, fold in half and then in quarters (fan shapes). Serve 2 per person on warm plates. Repeat until all the pancakes and butter have been used.

 

 

Fool Proof Food

Bill Casey’s Shanagarry Smoked Salmon Pâte

 

This is a delicious way to use up smoked salmon if you have any trimmings left over.

 

Smoked salmon trimmings

Softened butter, unsalted

 

Remove any skin or bones from the fish. Weigh the flesh. Add three quarters the weight in butter. Blend to a smooth puree. Fill into pots and run clarified butter over the top. Alternatively, mould in a loaf tin. Turn out and cut in slices when set.

Love is in the air and there are a few things more alluring than the smell of something delicious cooking in the oven. Doesn’t matter how sexy you are, they soon get fed up with burnt burgers and greasy chips.

So why not ask your cute friend round for lunch or dinner. Doesn’t have to be fancy – just comforting and gorgeous. Think about the menu carefully, listen out for clues in the conversation, would a chicken casserole hit the spot or will a tagine of lamb be more appealing? Both could be made ahead and served with ease and aplomb. The latter just needs some couscous, the former some fluffy mash or just a baked potato.

A bowl of delicious soup might be the perfect starter on these wintery days with some freshly made bread. Nothing brings on thoughts of romantic proposals faster that the smell of crusty bread – organise it so the bread is just coming out of the oven as they arrive. Suddenly they can see their whole life stretching out ahead of them – coming home every evening to the smell of something delicious bubbling on the stove – you may laugh – but try it and let me know how you get on.

If a delicious soup seems a little dreary or pedestrian why not try a twice baked soufflé, it sounds posh, but it can made ahead and just popped into the oven to reheat a few minutes before the meal. Alternatively a little goat cheese salad with crispy chorizo or pomegranate seeds is another easy option with a little twist.

For pudding there’s a vast choice, you might want to check out whether your friend does in fact have a sweet tooth, otherwise a delicious piece of Irish farmhouse cheese and some homemade crackers could round off the meal.

However most people are tempted by a bit of pudding. Is it to be an irresistible bread and butter pudding, a silky chocolate mousse with a few boudoir biscuits to dunk or a juicy apple tart even better mammy used to make. Here at the cookery school Rachel Allen and Rory O’Connell will be teaching a one day course ‘How to be a Culinary Cupid – the Art of Cooking for your Valentine’ on Saturday 6^{th February – you’ll have lots of fun and learn two or three menus and a myriad of tasty tips to tantalise your sweetheart’s taste buds.} If you are going to Galway

don’t miss the terrific food at Sheridan’s on the Docks restaurant and pub. Sheridan’s Cheese Shop is also a must – it’s got the best selection of cheese in the West and lots of other goodies as well 091 5649905 ^{sheridansonthedocksgalway@gmail.com}

Chicken and Streaky Bacon Casserole

 

The casserole can be an entire meal in a pot by covering the top with whole peeled potatoes just before it goes into the oven. Use a really good chicken (see Hot Tips for sources)

 

Serves 4-6

 

1 x 3 1/2 lbs (1.57kg) chicken (free range if possible) or six chicken thighs

a little butter or oil for sautéing

12 ozs (340g) green streaky bacon (blanch if salty) look out for Gubeen or Woodside Farm bacon at Mahon Point or Midleton Farmers Markets.

12 ozs (340g) carrot, peeled and thickly sliced (if the carrots are small, leave whole, if large cut in chunks)

1 lb (450g) onions, (baby onions are nicest)

sprig of thyme

homemade chicken stock – 1 1/4 pints (750ml) approx.

 

roux – optional – just melt ½ oz butter and stir 1oz white flour, cook on a gentle heat for 2 – 3 minutes.

 

mushroom a la créme (see recipe)

 

Garnish

2 tablespoons parsley, freshly chopped

 

Preheat oven to 180ºC/350ºF/regulo 4

 

Cut the rind off the bacon and cut into approx. 1 inch (2 cm) cubes, (blanch if salty). Dry in kitchen paper. Joint the chicken into 8 pieces. Season the chicken pieces well with salt and freshly ground pepper. Heat a little oil in a frying pan and cook the bacon until crisp, remove and transfer to the casserole. Add chicken pieces a few at a time to the pan and sauté until golden, add to the bacon in the casserole. Heat control is crucial here, the pan mustn’t burn yet it must be hot enough to sauté the chicken. If it is too cool, the chicken pieces will stew rather than sauté and as a result the meat may be tough. Then toss the onion and carrot in the pan adding a little butter if necessary, add to the casserole. Degrease the pan and deglaze with stock, bring to the boil and pour over the chicken etc. Season well, add a sprig of thyme and bring to simmering point on top of the stove, then put into the oven for 30-45 minutes, 180ºC/350ºF/regulo 4.

 

Cooking time depends on how long the chicken pieces were sautéed for.

When the chicken is just cooked, strain off the cooking liquid, degrease, return the degreased liquid to the casserole and bring to the boil. Thicken with a little roux if necessary (see below). Add the meat, carrots and onions back into the casserole and bring to the boil. Taste and correct the seasoning. The casserole is very good served at this point, but it’s even more delicious if some mushroom a la crème is stirred in as an enrichment. Serve sprinkled with chopped parsley and bubbling hot.

 

Mushroom a la Crème

Serves 4

1/2-1 oz (15-25g butter

3 ozs (75g) onion, finely chopped

1/2 lb (225g) mushrooms, sliced

4fl ozs (100ml) cream

freshly chopped parsley

1/2 tablespoon freshly chopped chives (optional)

a squeeze of lemon juice

salt and freshly ground pepper

roux

Melt the butter in a heavy saucepan until it foams. Add the chopped onions, cover and sweat on a gentle heat for 5-10 minutes or until quite soft but not coloured. Meanwhile cook the sliced mushrooms in a little butter, in a hot frying pan in batches if necessary. Season each batch with salt, freshly ground pepper and a tiny squeeze of lemon juice. Add the mushrooms to the onions in the saucepan, then add the cream and allow to bubble for a few minutes. Thicken with a little roux to a light coating consistency. Taste and correct the seasoning, and add parsley and chives if used.

Mushroom a la Crème keeps well in the fridge for 4-5 days.

 

 

 

 

Tagine of Lamb with Raisins and Honey

 

The great thing about this recipe is that you have all the ingredients in one pot and can prepare this ahead and the flavour improves with time.

 

Serves 6

 

1.35kg (3 lbs) boned shoulder of lamb

1/2 tablespoon) ground cinnamon

1 teaspoon ground ginger

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

generous pinch saffron

50g (2ozs) unsalted butter

2 onions, chopped

2 cloves garlic, finely chopped

salt

175g (6ozs) raisins, soaked in water and drained

2 tablespoons honey

3 tablespoons chopped coriander

 

1 tablespoon oil

50g (2ozs) flaked almonds

 

fresh coriander leaves

natural yoghurt

 

Trim the lamb, discarding excess fat. Cut into 1 1/2 inch (4cm) cubes. Mix cinnamon, ginger, pepper and saffron with 4 tablespoons water. Toss the lamb in this mixture. If you have time, leave to marinade for up to 24 hours.

 

Melt the butter in a wide pan. Add the lamb, onions, garlic, salt and enough water to come half way up the meat. Bring up to the boil, cover and reduce heat to a gentle simmer. Cook for about an hour, turning the lamb occasionally until the meat is meltingly tender. Add the drained raisins, honey and half the coriander. Continue simmering for a further 30 minutes or so, uncovered until the sauce is thick and unctuous. Taste and adjust seasoning.

 

While the tagine is cooking, scoop out the flesh out of a preserved lemon, chop up the peel. Fry the almonds in the oil until almost golden brown. Then add the diced lemon and toss 2 or 3 times. Drain on kitchen paper. Sprinkle preserved lemon, almonds and remaining coriander over the lamb just before serving. Natural yoghurt makes a delicious accompaniment. Serve with couscous.

 

Salad of Ardsallagh Goats Cheese with Rocket Leaves, Pomegranate Seeds and Local Honey

Pomegranates are the symbol of fertility and also cut cholesterol brilliantly.

Serves 2

2 handfuls rocket leaves

soft Ardsallagh Goat’s cheese

1 tablespoon best quality local honey

Maldon sea salt

¼ pomegranate

coarsely ground black pepper

extra virgin olive oil

1 lemon

Divide the rocket leaves between 4 large plates or 1 large flat serving plate. Slice or dice the goat’s cheese and sprinkle on rocket leaves. Remove the pomegranate seeds from the skin, sprinkle over the rocket leaves. With a teaspoon, drizzle the honey over the salad in a grid pattern then drizzle the salad with extra virgin olive oil and a squeeze of lemon juice. Finally, season with sea salt and freshly ground black pepper and serve.

 

Homemade Cheese Crackers

 

 

‘Wow you make your own crackers’ is bound to be the response to these delicious little biscuits. They keep for several weeks in an air tight tin and also freeze well.

Makes 25-30 biscuits

110g (4 oz) brown wholemeal flour

110g (4 oz) white flour, preferably unbleached

1/2 teaspoon baking powder

1/2 teaspoon salt

25g (1 oz) butter

1 tablespoon cream

water as needed, 5 tablespoons approx.

Mix the brown and white flour together and add the salt and baking powder. Rub in the butter and moisten with cream and enough water to make a firm dough.

Roll out very thinly to one-sixteenth inch thick approx. Prick with a fork. Cut with 6.5-7.5cm (2 1/2-3 inches) round cutter. Bake at 150°C/300°F/gas mark 2 for 45 minutes approx. or until lightly browned and quite crisp. Cool on a wire rack.

Chocolate Mousse with Boudoir Biscuits

Serves 6

110g (4ozs) good quality dark chocolate

110ml (4fl ozs) cream

1-2 tablespoons rum, brandy, or Grand Marnier,

or

1 teaspoon grated orange rind (optional)

2 eggs, separated

Boudoir biscuits

Chop the chocolate finely. Bring the cream up to the boil, turn off the heat, add the chocolate to the cream and stir it around until the chocolate melts in the cream. Add in the alcohol, if using, and whisk in the egg yolks. Whisk the egg whites until just stiff, then stir in a quarter of the egg white, fold in the rest, gently, being careful not to knock all the air out. Pour the mousse into a glass or cup and pop into the fridge for an hour or two to set. Serve with Boudoir biscuits for romantic dunking.

 

 

Bread and Butter Pudding

Don’t change anything in this recipe. I know its rich but it tastes divine and will definitely do the trick.

 

Serves 6-8

 

12 slices good-quality white bread, crusts removed

50g (2oz) butter, preferably unsalted

1⁄2 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg, cinnamon or mixed spice

200g (7oz) sultanas

450ml (16fl oz) cream

225ml (8fl oz) milk

4 large organic eggs, lightly beaten

1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

175g (6oz) sugar plus 1 tablespoon for sprinkling

pinch of salt

 

1 x 20.5cm (8 inch) square pottery or china dish

 

Butter the bread and arrange 4 slices, buttered side down, in one layer in the buttered dish. Sprinkle the bread with half the spice and half the sultanas, and then arrange another layer of bread, buttered side down, over the raisins, and sprinkle the remaining nutmeg and sultanas on top. Cover the sultanas with the remaining bread, again, buttered side down.

In a bowl whisk together the cream, milk, eggs, vanilla extract, sugar and the pinch of salt. Pour the mixture through a fine sieve over the bread. Sprinkle the tablespoonful of sugar over the top and let the mixture stand, loosely covered, at room temperature for at least 1 hour or chill overnight.

 

Preheat the oven to 180°C/350°F/Gas Mark 4.

 

Place the pudding in a bain-marie and pour in enough water to come half way up the sides of the baking dish. Bake the pudding in the middle of the oven for about 1 hour or until the top is crisp and golden. Serve the pudding warm with some softly whipped cream.

 

Irresistible Apple Pie

The pastry is a gem, it is made by the creaming method so people who are convinced that they suffer from ‘hot hands’ don’t have to worry about rubbing in the butter. Rhubarb, plums, apricot, gooseberries in season all work brilliantly.

 

Serves 8-12

 

Pastry

8 ozs (225g) butter

2 ozs (50g) castor sugar

2 eggs, preferably free range

12 ozs (300g) white flour, preferably unbleached

 

Filling

1 1/2 lbs (675g) Bramley Seedling cooking apples

5 ozs (150g) sugar

2-3 cloves

egg wash-made with one beaten egg and a dash of milk

castor sugar for sprinkling

 

To Serve

 

softly whipped cream

Barbados sugar

 

tin, 7 inches (18cm) x 12 inches (30.5cm) x 1 inch (2.5cm) deep

 

Preheat the oven to 180°C/350°F/regulo 4.

 

First make the pastry. Cream the butter and sugar together by hand or in a food mixer (no need to over cream). Add the eggs and beat for several minutes. Reduce speed and mix in the flour. Turn out onto a piece of floured greaseproof paper, flatten into a round wrap and chill. This pastry needs to be chilled for at least 2 hours otherwise it is difficult to handle.

 

To make the tart

Roll out the pastry 1/8 inch (3mm) thick approx., and use about 2/3 of it to line a suitable tin. Peel, quarter and dice the apples into the tart, sprinkle with sugar and add the cloves. Cover with a lid of pastry, seal edges, decorate with pastry leaves, egg wash and bake in the preheated oven until the apples are tender, approx. 45 minutes to 1 hour. When cooked cut into squares, sprinkle lightly with castor sugar and serve with softly whipped cream and Barbados sugar.

 

Fool Proof Food and Thrifty Tip

 

Doune McKenzie’s Cheese Biscuits

 

A brilliant recipe for using up left over bits of cheese, add a little blue cheese if available.

 

Any bits of left over cheese eg. Cheddar, Parmesan, Gruyere, Coolea, Cashel Blue … a little soft cheese may also be added but you will need some hard cheese to balance the flavour.

 

Weigh cheese then use equal amounts of butter and plain white flour.

Grate the cheese – rinds and all. Dice the butter. Cream the butter and stir in the flour and grated cheese, form into a roll like a long sausage, about 4cm (1 1/2 inches) thick. Alternatively whizz in a food processor until it forms a dough, shape using a little flour if necessary. Chill in the refrigerator for 1 -2 hours until solid.

 

Slice into rounds – about 7mm (1/3 inch) thick. Arrange on a baking tray, cook in a preheated oven 250ºC/475ºF/regulo 9 for approximately 5 minutes until golden brown.

 

Leave to cool for a couple of seconds then transfer to a wire rack. Best eaten on the day they are made as they soften quite quickly.

 

 

 

Hottips

All over the country people

are beginning to rear good chicken in a traditional way once again. They take much longer to mature so cost considerably more that the intensively produced birds – however the meat is like a forgotten flavour and the carcass makes a terrific pot of broth.

Dan Ahern, Dungourney Co Cork 021 4631058.

Nora Aherne: Elfordstown, Midleton, Co Cork 021 4632354

Tom Clancy: Ballycotton, 086 3089431

East Ferry Poultry: 021 4651916