Archive2003

Three great convertibles

Some readers of my books will already be familiar with our three great convertibles – Tomato Fondue, Piperonata and Mushroom a la Crème. These three incredibly versatile recipes appear in virtually all of my 12 cookery books despite the fact that each has a different theme and I am careful to have as little repetition as possible. They earn their place in every single volume because they not only star as a vegetable in their own right but also form the basis of many delectable dishes.
Lets start with Tomato Fondue. This juicy melted tomato stew can be flavoured with just one herb – say basil, mint or marjoram, or it can be embellished with a mixture of fresh herbs in season. It can be made ahead and frozen as indeed can Piperonata and Mushroom a la crème.
Its delicious served as a vegetable with fish, chicken, guinea fowl, pork, particularly if the recipe includes a creamy sauce. 
Serve it as a sauce with chicken breast or with a piece of pan-grilled wild Irish salmon – one can easily imagine that it makes a perfect sauce for pasta, either on its own or with chorizo or kabanossi sausage and lots of freshly grated Desmond, Coolea or Baylough farmhouse cheese. Slather it across the centre of an omelette with a little knob of pesto for extra excitement or use it as a base to add beans or chick peas for a delicious bean stew. You can add it to your favourite recipe for mince to make it even more tasty.

If you’d rather make a fish stew, add a mixture of fish and shellfish, some chilli to add a little extra zing and lots of fresh dill or maybe coriander, a little grated ginger is terrific too, as is a can of coconut milk and so on.
All one needs is a pot of Tomato fondue and a sprinkling of imagination – in the Caribbean they add spinach and lots of freshly chopped dill and serve it with fish – truly delicious.

Piperonata - the Italian Pepper and Tomato stew can also be used in a myriad of ways. It too is delicious with fish, and when paired with poached eggs it becomes the classic piperade. 
The sweetness of the peppers is particularly delicious with swordfish, tuna or monkfish. Piperonata, unlike the tomato fondue and mushroom a la crème can be eaten cold and is delicious with goat cheese or mozzarella. Drizzle with a little tapenade or pesto.

Deliciously rich and creamy, mushroom a la crème is irresistible with a succulent steak or juicy hamburger. Its also good with chicken breast and makes a perfect filling for a vol au vent or omelette. It makes the best mushrooms on toast and acts as a basis to use up little morsels of cooked chicken and ham. Add some cooked salmon and a few mussels or other shellfish, some chopped herbs, and hey presto you have a filling for pancakes or a pie which can be topped with pastry or potato. This mixture is also delicious as a filling for filo parcels.

Ring the changes by adding some freshly grated ginger and some toasted chopped almonds. We also spread a basic mushroom a la crème over a pizza base with lots of marjoram to make one of the most delectable of all pizzas.
Mushroom a la crème can also be made with wild mushrooms or a mixture of cultivated and wild.

So now you’ll understand why we virtually always have Tomato Fondue, Piperonata and Mushroom a la Crème in a fridge and also in the freezer – here are the recipes and I’m sure you will find even more exciting ways to use these great convertibles.

Piperonata

Serves 8-10
1 onion, sliced
2 red peppers
2 green peppers
6 large tomatoes (dark red and very ripe)
2 tablespoons olive oil
Salt, freshly ground pepper and sugar
A clove of garlic, crushed
A few leaves of fresh basil
Heat the olive oil in a casserole, add the garlic and cook for a few seconds, then add the sliced onion, toss in the oil and allow to soften over a gentle heat in a covered casserole while the peppers are being prepared. Halve the peppers, remove the seeds carefully, cut into quarters and then into strips across rather that lengthways. Add to the onion and toss in the oil; replace the lid and continue to cook.

Meanwhile peel the tomatoes (scald in boiling water for 10 seconds, pour off the water and peel immediately). Slice the tomatoes and add to the casserole, season with salt, freshly ground pepper, sugar and a few leaves of fresh basil if available. Cook until the vegetables are just soft, 30 minutes approx. 

Mushroom a la Creme

Serves 4
½-1 oz (15-30 g) butter
3 ozs (85 g) onion, finely chopped
½ lb (225g) mushrooms, sliced
4 fl ozs (100ml) cream
Freshly chopped parsley
½ tablespoon freshly chopped chives (optional)
A squeeze of lemon juice
Salt and freshly ground pepper

Melt the butter in a heavy saucepan until it foams. Add the chopped onions, cover and sweat on a gentle heat for 5-10 minutes or until quite soft but not coloured; remove the onions to a bowl. Meanwhile cook the sliced mushrooms in a hot frying pan in batches if necessary. Season each batch with salt, freshly ground pepper and a tiny squeeze of lemon juice . Add the mushrooms to the onions in the saucepan, then add the cream and allow to bubble for a few minutes. Taste and correct the seasoning, and add parsley and chives if used.

Note: Mushroom a la creme may be served as a vegetable, or as a filling for vol au vents, bouchees or pancakes or as a sauce for pasta. It may be used as an enrichment for casseroles and stews or, by adding a little more cream or stock, may be served as a sauce with beef, lamb, chicken or veal. A crushed clove of garlic may be added while the onions are sweating.
Mushroom a la Creme keeps well in the fridge for 4-5 days.

Stuffed Zucchini Blossoms with Goats Cheese, Pesto and Tomato Fondue

In the Summer we grow zucchini (courgettes) in both the Kitchen garden and the Green House, they produce hundreds of canary yellow blossoms. The female flowers produce the fruit but we use the male flowers in our salads, as a container for sauces and in soups. They are also utterly delicious stuffed with a few melting morsels, then dipped in a light batter and deep fried until crisp and golden. 

Serves 6-8 
Batter (excellent for fish fillets also) 
140g (5ozs) plain flour 
12 tablespoons olive oil 
Water
1-12 egg whites
Sea salt 
Sunflower oil for deep frying 
12 - 16 courgette flowers (or less) 
Filling 
175g - 225g (6 - 8ozs) fresh Irish goat=s cheese (I use St Tola, Croghan or Ardsallagh, each wonderful but different) 
3-4 teaspoons Pesto 
3-4 tablespoons Tomato fondue – see recipe
Accompaniment 
Tomato sauce or tomato fondue

First make the batter. Sieve the flour into a bowl, make a well in the centre, pour in the olive oil, stir and add enough water to make a batter about the consistency of thick cream. Allow to stand for at least 1 hour if you can. 
Just before cooking, whisk the egg whites to a stiff peak and fold into the batter. Add salt to taste.
Heat the oil in the deep fryer until very hot. Remove the >thorns= from the base of the zucchini flowers and the stamens from the center. Hold a zucchini flower upright, open slightly and carefully. Put about 15g (2oz) goat=s cheese, 2 teaspoon pesto and 1 teaspoon of Tomato fondue into each. Twist the tip of the petals to seal. Dip in batter and drop into the hot oil. Fry on one side for about 2 minutes and then turn over. They=ll take about 4 minutes in total to become crisp and golden. 
Drain on kitchen paper and serve immediately - just as they are or with hot Tomato Sauce or a little extra Tomato fondue. 

Crunchy Chicken and Mushroom Filo Pies 
Serves 6 as a main course – but these pastries can be made in different sizes and used as a canapé or starter also. 
1 packet filo pastry - use what you need and carefully freeze the remainder
Clarified Butter or melted butter
Mushroom a la Crème (see recipe)
340g (12oz) cooked chicken, diced 
225g (8oz) cooked ham or bacon, diced 
egg wash 
First make the Mushroom a la Crème. Add some coarsely chopped cooked ham or bacon and cooked chicken to the mushrooom a la creme. Taste and correct seasoning.
Defrost the filo pastry if necessary and unfold.
For Filo Parcels.
Brush the top sheet with melted butter. Put 1-2 tablespoons of the filling in the centre of the sheet in about 6.5cm (2½inch) from the narrow end. Fold the pastry over the filling twice and then fold in one of the edges, roll over and then fold in the other side so there is even thickness of pastry at both sides. Continue to roll over to enclose the filling. 
Brush with egg wash and melted butter.
Bake in a preheated oven at 200C/400F/regulo 4 for 15-20 minutes depending on size.
For filo triangles
Cut each sheet in 4 lengthwise, brush each strip with melted butter, put a heaped teaspoon of filling near the end of the strip. Fold over and over from side to side to form a triangle. Brush with melted butter and egg wash. 
Serve with a good green salad and some spicy greens. 

Darina’s back to basics  

Tomato Fondue
Serves 6 approximately
115g (4ozs) sliced onions
1 clove of garlic, crushed 
1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
900g (2lbs) very ripe tomatoes in Summer, or 2½ tins (x 14oz) of tomatoes in Winter, but peel before using
Salt, freshly ground pepper and sugar to taste
1 tablespoon of any of the following;
freshly chopped mint, thyme, parsley, lemon balm, marjoram or torn basil
Heat the oil in a non reactive saucepan. Add the sliced onions and garlic toss until coated, cover and sweat on a gentle heat until soft but not coloured. It is vital for the success of this dish that the onions are completely soft before the tomatoes are added. Slice the fresh tomatoes or tinned and add with all the juice to the onions. Season with salt, freshly ground pepper and sugar (tinned tomatoes need lots of sugar because of their high acidity). Add a generous sprinkling of herbs. Cook uncovered for just 10-20 minutes more, or until the tomato softens. Cook fresh tomatoes for a shorter time to preserve the lively fresh flavour. Tinned tomatoes need to be cooked for longer depending on whether one wants to use the fondue as a vegetable, sauce or filling. Note: A few drops of Balsamic vinegar at the end of cooking greatly enhances the flavour.

Tomato Fondue with Chilli
Add 1 - 2 chopped fresh chilli to the onions when sweating.

Hot Tips
Bord Bia have just brought out new beef and lamb recipe cards- ‘Great beef for the Grill or Barbecue’ and ‘Its so Easy’ Lamb recipes. Look out for the cards in the supermarket and at the butchers shop – all recipes are available on line at www.bordbia.ie
Cork’s English Market has been listed among Europe’s top ten food markets in the current issue of the Observer Food Monthly, in the company of Borough Market in London, Les Halles de Lyons, The Pescheria in Venice and others.

Alastair Hendy’s – Home Cook

Alastair Hendy’s name may not be familiar to many over here but readers of the Sunday Times who were devastated when his column was discontinued, are thrilled to find his lively prose, tempting recipes and evocative photos in the Mail on Sunday You Magazine. He also writes in a myriad of other magazines and publications.
I’m a fan and even more so since we met at Tasting Australia in Adelaide a couple of years ago. He and Kevin Gould, two culinary whizz kids were so kind to me and included me in many of their trips and events even though I was old enough to be their granny.
Alastair is an entirely self-taught eclectic cook, passionate about food and the quality of ingredients. He has written for numerous magazines and presented a 20-programme series ‘No Meat Required’ which was screened on Carlton Food Network. He takes beautiful photographs – he’s an inveterate traveller spending much of his time in India, South East Asia (Thailand, Vietnam and Indonesia), Sri Lanka, Europe, USA, Central and South America and North Africa, all of which have influenced his eclectic cooking style.
His latest book ‘Home Cook’ with more than 150 recipes is described as an honest, fuss-free up-to-the-minute cookery bible that shows you how to magic a proper dinner with one hand while downing a glass or two with friends with the other. Well I found lots of really tempting recipes from favourite comfort snacks to exotic Pad Thai Noodles and White and Dark Chocolate Tira Misu. We also greatly enjoyed Honey Roast Drumsticks and Sticky Asian Pork and Herb Salad.
Home Cook by Alastair Hendy, published by Headline in 2004. 

Delicious Shrimp pad Thai noodles

300g dried rice stick noodles, or other rice noodles
5cm white radish or 4 regular radishes, finely shredded
3 tbsp rice vinegar
2 tbsp castersugar
fish sauce
2 hot red chillies, sliced into rings
500g uncooked tiger prawns
2 big handfuls beansprouts
3-4 tbsp vegetable oil
3 large eggs
6 cloves garlic, finely chopped
2 shallots, finely sliced
6 spring onions, cut into short lengths
4 tbsp roasted peanuts, crushed
1 tsp ground dried chilli or chilli flakes
handfuls of coriander leaves

The secret here, as with all stir-frying, is to have all your stuff ready for the pan, then it’s a simple process of slinging things in when you come to cook. First, soak the noodles. Toss the radish with the rice vinegar in a small bowl, and leave for about 30 minutes, then lift up from its vinegar bath and put on one side. Stir the sugar, 2 tbsp of the fish sauce and 1 tbsp water into the vinegar. Pop the chilli rings into small dipping bowls filled with fish sauce ready for serving. Now, display everything – including the prawns and beansprouts – in little piles or in bowls by the hob, ready for the off.
To cook, heat about 1 tbsp oil in your wok and swirl around, then crack in the eggs and scramble them: once they begin to set, keep scraping up and jumbling over until they start to gain a little golden colour, then scrape out into a small bowl. Next, heat 2 tbsp of oil in the wok and chuck in the garlic. After about 20 seconds, chuck in the prawns and stir-fry until they turn pink. Throw in the shallots, then stir in the vinegar mixture and let it bubble up, then tip in the noodles, vinegared radish, spring onions and peanuts and stir-fry for about 2 minutes or until the noodles have absorbed the liquid. Chuck in the beansprouts, sprinkle over the dried chilli, and once more stir through. Pile on to plates and scatter with coriander. Zing it up by adding rings of chilli and dribbles of hot fish sauce as you eat.
The Ballymaloe Cookery School

White and dark chocolate tiramisu

Makes 6 pots or you could put it all in one dish
2 medium eggs
caster sugar
500g mascarpone cheese
250ml double cream, plus 2 tbsp.
100ml strong, freshly brewed coffee
3 tbsp Kahlua liqueur, or other coffee liqueur
1 packet sponge finger biscuits
1 tbsp.shelled hazelnuts, roasted and ground
100g white chocolate, broken into pieces
150g dark bitter chocolate (minimum 70% cocoa solids), broken into pieces

Using a hand whisk, beat the eggs with 2 tbsp of the sugar until pale, then beat in the mascarpone and the 2 tbsp. double cream until the mixture is smooth. Mix the coffee with another 2-3 tsp of sugar and the liqueur, then dunk each sponge finger briefly into this. Layer the soaked fingers into the base of each dish or pot, about four per serving. Dribble a tbsp. more of the coffee mixture over each, sprinkle with hazelnuts, then spoon the mascarpone on top, gently pushing down to fill any gaps.
Melt the white chocolate in a bowl set over a pan of simmering water, making sure the bottom of the bowl is not touching the water. As soon as it has melted, allow it to cool, just a little. Meanwhile, beat the double cream until it forms soft peaks, then beat the white chocolate into the cream. Spoon on top of the mascarpone, level off and refrigerate until needed.
To serve, melt the dark chocolate (in the same way as the white chocolate), then once cooled a tad, pour over each serving, and take to the table straightaway. Delicious.

Sticky Asian Pork and Herb Salad

3 tbsp unsalted skinned peanuts
500g free-range pork fillet (or chicken breast)
3 tsp five-spice powder
2 tbsp soft brown sugar
1 tbsp fish sauce
3 tbsp soy sauce
2 sticks lemongrass, trimmed and finely shredded
3 large mild red chillies, deseeded and roughly chopped
3 cloves garlic, crushed
3 shallots, finely chopped
3 tbsp Asian dressing (see recipe)
½ large cos lettuce or other crisp leaves, torn up
handful each of basil, mint and coriander leaves
1 cucumber, peeled, deseeded and shredded
4 spring onions, finely shredded lengthways
2 tbsp vegetable or sunflower oil

Scatter the peanuts over a roasting tray, then toast in a 200°C/400°F/Gas 6 over for about 15 minutes, shaking once or twice, or until evenly brown all over. Then crush them to chunky crumbs. They’ll keep like this, sealed in a tub, for a good month or more – so do extra if you make lots of South-East Asian things.

Slice the meat into 1cm thick sections and toss with the five-spice powder. Then mix the sugar with the fish sauce, soy sauce, lemongrass, chilli, garlic and shallot, tip this over the seasoned sliced pork, and stir through. Leave to marinate for about an hour if you can – although the results are still damn good if you’re time-poor and have to sling it straight in the pan. Next, toss the Asian dressing with the torn-up cos leaves, herbs, cucumber, spring onion and toasted crumbled nuts.

Heat the oil in a heavy frying pan and fry the marinated port without moving for about 1 minute, then turn and fry for another minute, then sling over any remaining marinade and cook until varnished brown and sticky. To serve, fold the pork with all its caramelised bits and bobs through the dressed salad leaves and other ingredients. And dig in.

Asian Dressing

This is the dressing that turns bland into fantastic. It’s dairy free, oil free and – not that this ever dictates what I eat – it’s healthy, so a great one if you’re clocking the calories. It has to be a classic now. It’s simply what the Vietnamese use as a dipping sauce. Add a handful of crushed and toasted peanuts on top of any pile of bits and pieces tossed with this and you’re off. A little goes a long way, so use more sparingly than, say, a French dressing. And add a drop of oil, if you prefer. And if you want to use it as a dipping sauce, dilute with 1 tbsp of water.
2 small red bird’s eye chillies (finely sliced)
2 cloves garlic (crushed in a press)
3 tbsp caster sugar
4 tbsp each of fish sauce, lime juice and rice vinegar

Whisk together all the ingredients (or shake up in a screw-top jar) until the sugar has dissolved, then leave to stand for about 20 minutes to allow the chilli and garlic to do their thing. Easy.

Foolproof Food

Honey Roast Drumsticks from ‘Home Cook by Alastair Hendy’

This recipe evolves at home constantly – and every family has their own version. You can add some grated ginger if you have some.
8 chicken drumsticks or thighs, skin on or off
4 cloves garlic, crushed
1 tbsp. runny honey
2 tbsp. soy sauce
1 tbsp roughly chopped rosemary
1 tbsp vegetable oil

Lay the chicken across a roasting tin, then salt and pepper it. Next, dribble, spill and sprinkle over the remaining flavourings and oil, and then jumble the chicken pieces around a bit so they become well coated. Leave them like this until you’re ready to cook. Jumble through again just before you roast them.
Roast the tray of chicken in a 220C/ 425F/gas 7 oven for 35 minutes, remembering to turn the pieces over midway. Then remove the tin from the oven, cover with foil and leave on one side for 10 minutes, the meat will carry on cooking a little and will have time to relax and become succulent. I know they’re only legs but this relaxing time makes all the difference.

Hot Tips
4th Annual Slow Sea Food Festival at Baltimore – Sunday 30th May on the The Pier in Baltimore, West Cork.
Music all day by the ‘Cheesemakers’, over 20 Irish Producers selling their own food. Buffet using fresh fish caught at Baltimore and produce from local growers. It coincides with ‘The Baltimore Wooden Boats Festival’ and ‘David Owen’s Oyster Festival’ – so lots and lots of reasons to come! Contact Clodagh McKenna on 023-52977 or clodaghmckenna@eircom.net  

Galway Student in a league of his own 
At Irish Pork competition

Simon Tracey of Galway-Mayo Institute of Technology cooked the winning dish for the Irish Pork Competition Final. The aim of the competition and cookery course, co-ordinated by Bord Bia, The Panel of Chefs of Ireland, the IAPP and the IFA, is to increase the presence of Irish pork on menus throughout Ireland and to educate students with regard to Irish Pork ‘from Farm to Fork’. 

Catering students from 8 IT Colleges nationwide participated in the final of the cookery competition, in which they cooked their chosen pork dish. Simon, from Ballinasloe was awarded a certificate, a trophy and a €1,000 cash prize. He also received sponsorship to the value of €2,000 for a pork related project to be carried out as part of his college course. All five finalists received a €250 book voucher and a gold medal. As part of the training course, students saw how pigs are reared, how a processing plant operates. They also received a presentation on Bord Bia’s Pigmeat Quality Assurance Scheme and a presentation on Research and Development in pig production by
Teagasc. One hundred and twenty students from colleges nationwide were involved in a series of information open days on pork production and processing. 

St Tola Organic Goat Cheeses – are produced by Siobhan Ni Ghairbhidh at Inagh in Co Clare – Siobhan was trained by Meg and Derrick Gordon, the original St Tola Cheesemakers –their commitment is to produce local organic hand crafted goat cheeses, whose flavours represent the characteristics of the locality. These cheeses are made on a daily basis and they are committed to organic farming and traditional cheese-making methods. They are finding pressure from cheaper processed substitutes and pressure on price rather than quality. They have ample supplies of the St Tola range and are listed with all the main wholesalers in Ireland – they are dependent on like-minded customers who are committed to quality regional foods, and whom they ask to support them by insisting on getting St Tola from their cheese wholesaler, or else contact them directly Tel 065-6836633 Fax 065-6836757 
info@st-tola.ie  www.st-tola.ie

A Family Celebration

This is the Holy Communion and Confirmation season. All over the country excited children and frazzled parents are preparing for the big day. Celebrations seem to gather momentum and become even more elaborate every year, a far cry from my childhood when one came home for a family breakfast of rashers and eggs, shared with grandparents, perhaps a favourite aunt and uncle and a neighbour or two and the godparents. There were presents of course, a little prayer book with a gold and white embossed cover, a little miraculous medal surrounded by a pleated white ribbon and a pretty blue or white rosary beads to treasure as special memento of the day.

The idea of collecting enough money to buy bike or a playstation was a long way off at that stage. 

A special meal to celebrate these special occasions – understandably many people choose to go to a favourite restaurant with family and friends - everyone can relax but if the party of extended family and friends continues to expand, this can prove to be an expensive option, so why not decide to do your own Communion or Confirmation party. With a little planning and some help from the pals it needn’t be a marathon task – no point in being a martyr. Decide on the menu and then delegate – friends are usually delighted to be invited to bring along their ‘signature dish’ or luscious pud.

A family celebration such as this often involves several generations so lets think of having something yummy for everyone.

However, its important to remember it’s a day for the children, not just for adults, so the menu must be designed with that in mind. Choose dishes that can be made ahead and don’t need last minute attention. It’s a neat idea to do a few little bites to pass around when people arrive from the Church. Make some zingy homemade lemonade for the kids (use sparkling water instead of still) and some bubbly for the grown ups.

The canapés could be as simple as really good smoked salmon on brown bread or a tasty pate on crostini,

Dips are also easy to whip up – how about Tortilla Chips with Guacamole and Tomato Salsa, Cumin pitta crisps with Tstatsiki or Hummus bi Tahina.

Both kids and adults love Spicy potato wedges with a garlicy mayonnaise dip.

Kids of all ages love sausages – serve some plain and toss the rest in a mixture of honey, wholegrain mustard and chopped rosemary – simple and lip smackingly good.

For main course – a white soda bread pizza with tomato and mozzarella and pepperoni topping or mushroom and marjoram topping would disappear with double quick speed. Chicken goujons with chips and sweet chilli sauce would get a similar reception from the kids- the grown-ups might even sneak a few. A big bubbly stew with scallion champ or a tagine with couscous, or a chicken and mushroom pie would be delicious and easy to produce.

Alternatively, a poached salmon with homemade mayonnaise and perhaps a few simple salads – tomato and mint, cucumber pickle, egg mayonnaise and potato and chive salad would be light and summery.

For pudding you’ll need to have lots of really good quality ice-cream for the kids and embellish it with a generous bowl of new season Irish strawberries or maybe make a fresh strawberry sauce to serve with vanilla ice-cream. Sticky toffee pudding or a buttery rhubarb tart would be perfect for a cooler day and then there must be a celebration cake or a meringue gateau – how about almond meringue with strawberries and cream.

If all this seems too much like hard work why not find a good caterer to take over and provide the food, or even order the desserts and cake from one of the many little great delis springing up all over the place - see Hot Tips.

Gratin of Chicken and Broccoli

Serves 4-6
This is one of those dishes that can be mouth-watering or a complete disaster. Its success depends on the broccoli being carefully cooked so that it is bright green and just tender.
1 x 32 lb (1.5kg) chicken*, free range if possible
2 carrots, sliced
2 onions, sliced
sprig each of thyme and tarragon
a few peppercorns
2 pint (300ml) homemade chicken stock
1 lb (450g) broccoli florets
4 ozs (110g) mushrooms, sliced
scrap of butter
6 fl ozs (175ml) milk
3 pint (150ml) cream
2 teasp. tarragon or annual marjoram
roux
1 oz (30g) Buttered crumbs, see below
1 oz (30g) grated mature Cheddar cheese
Lasagne dish 10 x 8 inch (25.5 x 20.5cm)
Put the chicken into a saucepan or casserole with the onions and carrots add a sprig of thyme, tarragon and a few peppercorns. Pour in the stock, bring to the boil, cover and simmer for 1-13 hours or until the chicken is tender. 

Meanwhile cook the broccoli florets in boiling salted water until al dente (see recipe). Drain and refresh under cold water, keep aside. Saute the mushrooms in the butter on a hot pan season with salt and freshly ground pepper and keep aside also.
When the chicken is cooked remove the meat from one side and carve into bite sized pieces. Keep the rest for another recipe,* or double the rest of the ingredients.

Strain and degrease the cooking liquid, add the cream and milk, bring to the boil, add the tarragon or annual marjoram, simmer for a few minutes, thicken to a light coating consistency with roux, then add the chicken to the sauce. Season with salt and freshly ground pepper.
Butter an ovenproof lasagne dish, put a layer of broccoli on the base, scatter the mushrooms on top and cover with the creamy chicken mixture.
Mix the Buttered Crumbs with the grated cheese and sprinkle over the surface. Reheat in a moderate oven 180C/350F/regulo 4 for 15-20 minutes and flash under the grill until the top is crunchy and golden. Serve immediately.

Buttered Crumbs

3 oz (8g.) butter
2 oz (15g) soft white breadcrumbs
Melt the butter in a pan and stir in the breadcrumbs. Remove from the heat immediately and allow to cool.

Sausages with Honey and Grainy Mustard

1 lb (450g) good quality cocktail sausages

2 tablesp. Irish honey
2 tablesp.Irish grainy mustard (eg. Lakeshore mustard with honey)

Mix the honey with the mustard. Prick the sausages, coat with the honey and mustard mixture, cook in a preheated oven 200C/400F/regulo 6 for 20-25 minutes or until cooked and golden.
Baste several times during cooking.

Home-Made Lemonade

If you keep some chilled 'stock syrup' made up in your fridge all these fresh fruit drinks are simplicity itself to make. They contain no preservatives so they should be served within a few hours of being made. Many different types of citrus fruit may be used.
Stock Syrup
Makes 825ml (28fl ozs)
450g (1 lb) sugar
600ml (1 pint) water
To make the stock syrup: Dissolve the sugar in the water and bring to the boil. Boil for 2 minutes then allow it to cool. Store in the fridge until needed.

4 lemons
2 orange
500ml (16fl oz) approx. syrup
1.4L (2½ pint) approx. water – use sparkling mineral water
Garnish
sprigs of fresh mint or lemon balm
Juice the fruit and mix with the stock syrup, add water to taste. Add ice, garnish with sprigs of fresh mint or lemon balm and serve.

Almond Meringue with Strawberries and Cream


We use this all-in-one meringue recipe for birthdays, anniversaries, Valentines Day, or simply for a special dessert, its particularly delicious with strawberries, but raspberries, loganberries, peaches, nectarines, or kiwi fruit are also very good.
Serves 6
1½ ozs (45g) whole unskinned almonds
2 egg whites, preferably free range
4½ ozs (125g) icing sugar
Filling
½ pint (300ml) whipped cream
½ lb (225g) strawberries
Garnish
Little sprigs of mint or lemon balm

Blanch and skin the almonds. Grind or chop them up. They should not be ground to a fine powder but should be left slightly coarse and gritty, (you could cheat and use nibbed almonds!)

Mark 2 x 7½ inch (19cm) circles on silicone paper or a prepared baking sheet. Check that the bowl is dry, spotlessly clean and free from grease. Mix all the icing sugar with the egg whites in the bowl, whisk until the mixture forms stiff dry peaks. Fold in the almonds quickly. Divide the mixture between the two circles and spread evenly with a palette knife. Bake immediately in a cool oven, 150ºC/300ºF/regulo 2 for 45 minutes or until crisp. Turn off the oven and allow to cool. The meringue discs should peel easily off the silicone paper.

To assemble

Slice the strawberries. Sandwich the meringue discs together with the fruit and whipped cream. Reserve a little fruit and cream for decoration. Decorate with rosettes of whipped cream and strawberries. Garnish with little sprigs of mint or lemon balm.

Note: If you chill for an hour before serving it will be easier to cut.
The meringue discs will keep for several weeks in a tin.
Basic Beginners Recipe –
Potato Wedges
Roasted Potato wedges with rosemary and garlic. Instead of Rosemary and Garlic you could dip the potato pieces in flour seasoned with Cajun spices or use one of the ready prepared sachets of seasonings for potato wedges which come in a range of flavours. 

2 lbs (900g) old potatoes, e.g. Golden Wonders, or Kerrs pink.
Extra virgin olive oil
12-14 cloves of garlic
Rosemary sprigs
Salt and freshly ground pepper

Preheat the oven to 200F/100C
Scrub the potatoes well. Cut into quarters or eights lengthwise depending on size. The pieces should be chunky rather than skinny. Put into a roasting tin with the garlic cloves, drizzle with a little olive oil, toss to coat, sprinkle with salt and a few rosemary sprigs. Roast for 20-30 minutes.
Serve with garlic mayonnaise or a sour cream dip or your own favourite dipping sauce. 

Hot Tips

The Emporium Café at Stephen Pearce Gallery, Shanagarry, Co Cork – as well as providing delicious coffee and snacks, Mamie and Elaine also do outside catering, special occasion cakes, tempting meals to take away….021 4646343

Cuddigans Foodstore, Church Street, Cloyne, Co Cork – our much loved Mr. Cuddigan’s butcher shop is now home to Siobhan Cronin’s foodstore – you can buy a range of tasty ready meals all made on the premises – soups, main courses, desserts, cakes, breads and pastries – special orders welcomed – 021-4652762. 

Others to look up - O’Callaghans Deli, Mitchelstown, Cinnamon Cottage – Rochestown, Cork –The Granary, Midleton

Around the Country - Country Choice, Nenagh, Jim Tynan Portlaoise, Goyas in Galway, The Gourmet Parlour, Sligo ….. see the Bridgestone Shoppers Guide for lots of suggestions.

In Dublin –

It’s a Bagel - Pamela Black and her colleagues will cater for a Bagel Party – 01-8740486, 01-2360644 – info@itsabagel.com

The Butlers Pantry in Blackrock – Eileen Bergin and her team supply a wide range of delicious goodies - 01-2885505

Tim Dickson of Hooper Dickson Catering Co caters for Holy Communions and other special occasions – 01-6267349 www.hdcatering.com  email:tdickson@eircom.net 

Other Dublin caterers - Sarah Peelo at YUZU Catering Tel 01-8349748 www.yuzu.ie  Sarah O’Riain 087-2101861, Rachel Hegarty at Personal Chefs – 01-888 1272 

Joan O’Connell – 01-8532063

Coming up soon at Ballymaloe Cookery School –
Simply Delicious Food Fast 26-28 May, Discovering Tapas 28 May, Guest Chef Rory O’Connell 29 May, Taste of Thailand & Vietnam 30 May, Vegetarian 3 June, Sushi 6 June – for details of these and all our courses 021-4646785. www.cookingisfun.ie  

A book worth seeking out - Eat to Live by Sue Radd and Dr. Kenneth Setchell

Published by Newleaf 2003 in Ireland ‘Its not only what we eat that makes us sick – but what we don’t eat!’
Tel 021-4646785. www.cookingisfun.ie

No farmers, no food

Bord Bia do trojan work to promote Irish food, both at home and abroad – they come up with so many exciting ideas that I often wonder whether they all stay awake at night dreaming up new ways to entice us to buy and try fresh Irish produce. Regular readers of this column will know that I too regularly exhort people to think fresh, local and seasonal and above all to think Irish as you fill your shopping basket – farmers and food producers are really having a tough time. We all seem to assume that cheap food is our right and so the primary producers are often forced to produce food below an economic level because of our unreasonable expectation. Nobody in business can continue for any length of time if they can’t cover their costs and make a reasonable profit to reinvest. If this continues, more and more farmers will be forced to sell the farms they love, otherwise they will be forced to intensify further, in which cases we will all be losers. The result will inevitably be less good quality, less flavour, poorer texture and often less nutritious. Also – sounds a bit melodramatic – no farms, no food – maybe a while off, but in the US 1000 acres of land a day are being lost to farming. In Ireland between 1991 and 2000 there was a drop of around 29,000 in the number of farmers.

On a happier note, back to Bord Bia who have encouraged our butchers shops to stock minced pork on a regular basis – its great value for money, it has all the high nutritional value of other meats and while it can be used in all your favourite mince dishes, it has the added advantage of combining really well with all the current popular flavours - ginger, garlic, sesame oil, soy sauce, chilli etc., so you have available to you a host of delicious dishes. Especially good are the Chinese style dishes with minced pork like Spring Rolls, Chinese Dumplings, Sweet and Sour Meatballs.

So how about experimenting – for more information and recipes contact Bord Bia 

01-6685155, www.bordbia.ie

Minced Pork Sticks with Sesame Dressing

450g (1lb) minced pork
1 clove garlic, chopped
1 teasp. ginger
1 tablesp. soy /fish sauce
1 tablesp. basil, chopped
1 chilli, chopped
salt and black pepper
Dressing
1 tablesp. oil
1 tablesp. sesame oil
1 tablesp. Dijon mustard
½ tablesp. rice vinegar
1 tablesp. sesame seeds, toasted
1 tablesp. soy/fish sauce
½ teasp. sugar
1 chilli, chopped
2 tablesp. basil, chopped

Mix all the pork stick ingredients together and shape onto 12 skewers. Brush with oil and grill until fully cooked, 10-15 min. Mix the dressing together. Serve the sticks with the dressing, noodles and lime wedges.

Pork Burgers with Red Pepper and Mango Salsa

450g (1lb) minced pork
1 onion, finely chopped and sautéed in oil
1-2 cloves garlic, chopped
1 chilli, chopped
a handful of coriander and scallions, chopped
salt and black pepper
Red Pepper and Mango Salsa
1 mango, diced
1 avocado, diced
1 red pepper,diced
a handful of coriander and scallions, chopped
2-3 tablesp. oil
1 chilli, chopped
½ teasp. sugar
juice of 1 lime or ½ lemon
salt and black pepper

Mix the burger ingredients together. Shape into 4 burgers. Grill until fully cooked, 8-10 minutes. Mix the salsa ingredients together. Serve with the burger, bap and salad leaves.

Homemade Sausages with Bramley Apple Sauce

Makes 16 approx. - Serve 8
1 lb (450g) good fat streaky pork
2-4 teaspoons mixed fresh herbs eg. parsley, thyme, chives, marjoram and rosemary or sage
1 large clove garlic
1 egg, preferably free range
2½ ozs (70g) soft white breadcrumbs
Salt and freshly ground pepper
A little oil

Mince the pork. Chop the herbs finely and mix through the crumbs. Crush the garlic to a paste with a little salt. Whisk the egg then mix all the ingredients together thoroughly. Season with salt and freshly ground pepper. Fry off a little knob of the mixture to check the seasoning correct if necessary. Divide into 16 pieces and roll into lengths. Fry gently on a barely oiled pan until golden on all sides. They are particularly delicious served with Bramley Apple Sauce and Potato Cakes.

Note: For Breakfast you may want to omit the herbs and garlic.

Bramley Apple Sauce

The trick with Apple sauce is to cook it on a very low heat with only a tiny drop of water so it is nice and thick and not too watery, always worth having in the freezer in little tubs in case you feel like a juicy pork chop for supper.
1 lb (450g) cooking apples 
1-2 dessertspoons water
2 ozs (55g) approx. sugar (depending on how tart the apples are)

Peel, quarter and core the apples; cut the pieces in two and put them in a stainless or cast-iron saucepan, with sugar and water. Cover and cook on a very low heat until the apples break down in a fluff. Stir and taste for sweetness.
Serve warm and cold.

Penne with Pork Sausage, Cream and Basil

Serves 8

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 onion (6ozs approx.), finely chopped
4 garlic cloves, crushed
250g Italian sausages or minced belly of pork, skinned and crumbled
1 teaspoon fennel seeds, crushed
300ml double cream
500g dried pasta
1 handful fresh basil, torn or watercress
salt and black pepper
freshly grated Parmesan to serve

Heat oil in large frying pan. Add onion and garlic and cook, stirring occasionally over medium high heay, until just golden, - 5 minutes. Add minced pork and fennel seeds. Cook, stirring frequently to break up meat, until it browns, about 10 minutes.
Stir in the cream and simmer until just thickened – 1-2 minutes. Add salt and freshly ground pepper to taste.
Meanwhile, cook pasta in large pot of boiling salted water until al dente. Drain reserving ½ cup pasta water. Add the pasta to the hot sauce. Add the torn basil leaves. Toss well to coat, adding reserved water as needed. Serve immediately with Parmesan.

OR

Penne with Pork Sausage, Cream and Basil al Forno

Turn into dishes and bake 200ºC/400ºF/Gas mark 6 al forno for 15-20 minutes until slightly crisp on top. Serve with a good green salad.

Darina’s back to basics

Oatmeal Biscuits
A bikkie anyone can make, even complete beginners

This nutritious recipe makes 24 or even 32 biscuits, which keep very well in a tin, the children love to munch them with a banana, don’t compromise, make these with butter, the flavour is immeasurably better.

1 lb (450g) oatmeal (porridge oats)
12 ozs (340g) butter
8 ozs (225g) castor sugar
1 tablesp. golden syrup
1 teasp. pure vanilla essence

Swiss roll tin 10 inch x 15 inch (25.5cm x 38 cm)

Melt the butter, remove from the heat add the golden syrup and pure vanilla essence, stir in the castor sugar and oatmeal and mix well.

Spread into a large swiss roll tin and bake in a moderate oven 180C/350F/regulo 4 until golden and slightly caramelized about 30 minutes approx. Cut into 24-32 squares while still warm.

Note: Make half the recipe if a 9 x 13 inch (23 x 33cm) swiss roll tin is used.

Oatmeal and Banana Crunch
For an instant pudding, cover an oatmeal biscuit with slices of banana, put a tiny dollop of cream on top and eat. Simply Delicious!
Loose crumbs can be scattered over some stewed apple for an instant crumble.

Hot tips

For free-range organic chickens contact Dan and Anne Ahern 021-4631058, also available at Midleton Farmers Market.
Organic Pork – Available at Midleton Farmers Market, or from Caherbeg Free Range Pork Ltd. Tel 023-48474, Gubbeen Smokehouse, Tel 028-27824.

Le goÛt du terroir

Despite the war and the Saars scare, 1,200 people winged their way to Montreal recently to attend the annual conference of the International Association of Cooking Professionals. This net-working festival for food writers, cookery school owners, teachers, caterers and chefs is held yearly somewhere on the North American continent. The fact that there was a record turnout for the 25th Annual conference reflects the fact that in the US, record numbers of people are, buying cookbooks, enrolling for cooking classes, because they want to be able rustle up something delicious for their family and friends. In this time of fiscal restraint ‘Eating in’ would appear to be the new ‘Eating out’! The exception were the French cooking schools which target the American business, they saw their business decimated this year when France took an anti-Iraq war stand. 

So what do IACP members do when they get together for a conference. The answer is pack much more than is physically possible into a few days. Delegates start to network furiously at breakfast from 7.30am onwards each day. Then there are keynote presentations, this year it was on the Politics of Food, moderated by RW Apple Junior, of the New York Times. A coffee break for more networking, followed by a myriad of simultaneous concurrent workshops on a variety of subjects. The theme of this year’s conference was Le Goût du Terroir, which rather inadequately translates into The Taste of the Soil. The concept of terroir really means much more in French than soil. It denotes an understanding of history and a powerful sense of place. Terroir is all about flavour, provenance and locale. Several of the sessions dealt with how our food is produced, the farm to table connection and the dilemma of cheap food. Others dealt with topics such as how to make your culinary business grow, what cookbook and magazine editors want today, behind the scenes in a test kitchen, food styling on location, the art of food photography, planning culinary tours …..

There were sessions on pairing food with wine , tea with chocolate and Washoku – the harmony of food.

Other sessions dealt with specific ingredients, spices, chocolate, farmhouse cheese, duck, foie gras, or particular cuisines, a taste of Sweden, the Philippines, or the Turmeric Trail. In the midst of it all the great diet debate and a session on trends in the supermarket industry.

Altogether there are 60 sessions over 3 days, so it is totally impossible to participate or absorb all the information, so one ends up buying the tapes of the sessions one couldn’t get to. 

In the evenings it was a frenzy of eating out. Montreal is a beautiful city on an island, a mixture of old and new. Downtown bristles with skyscrapers, many seem frivolous, almost perky with playful shapes and uncorporate colours.

The city above ground is mirrored by another whole city underground so one can avoid the freezing winters and wander around in coatless comfort- just as well because I arrived coatless and full of optimism to be met by the last snow shower of the season. Fortunately, I resisted the impulse to buy a coat- two days later the temperature was in the 60’s

Up to relatively recently, the food scene in Montreal was determinedly French, chefs had resisted the food trends sweeping across from America and even Toronto. Cajun, Tex Mex, Franco Asian, Pacific Rim & Cal-Ital came and went in other cities, but the diners of Montreal remained resolute – they stuck to their French culinary traditions.

However, in recent years this attitude has changed dramatically after the recession of the early 1990’s , restaurateurs were forced to re-examine, streamline and experiment. Immigration continued to grow, Thai, Vietnamese, Moroccan, Turkish, Portuguese, Mexican, Indian, Creole, Greek, Szechuan, Japanese. 

Innovation and intermingling of styles, ingredients and techniques was inevitable and the city culinary landscape is all the richer for it. 

My best meals were at Milos, a Greek seafood restaurant where the food was so delicious it made me wish I could head for a Greek island . The interior was just like a taverna in an Aegean fishing port - white washed walls, bleached wooden floors, blue tiles, Greek vases and a mouthwatering display of the freshest fish you can imagine.

With the basket of grilled bread came a dish of fragrant olive oil, just as we were about to dip our bread, the waiter snipped some fresh Marjoram into the oil- a simple and truly delicious touch wonderful for restaurant or for home entertaining. 

We were a table of avid foodies , so we shared a wide variety of dishes, a starter plate of Taramasalata, Tsatsiki and Kephalotyri cheese in a crispy batter, chargrilled squid, crab cakes, paper thin slices of courgette and aubergine with tsatsiki

A super rocket salad with feta and olive oil balsamic avgotarlio, the salted and pressed mullet roe which I found addictive and huge shrimps from Lake Messalogi.

After we shared all this, there was no room for main course so we went straight onto pudding. Various halva and filo pastries- the galaktoboureko was particularly delicious. 

Finally, we nibbled some Greek cheeses and a truly delicious Anthotyro, a soft cheese from Crete which was drizzled with honey and served with candied tangerine peel.

Other good meals at Anise and Toque, but the most memorable was at Pied de Couchon where chef Martin Picard serves truly authentic French peasant food, comforting bourgeois dishes with an edge of wit and sophistication. The look is rustic, sleek with hewn wood tables, brick oven and industrial chic ladies room. This restaurant is not for the faint hearted, certainly not a destination for vegetarians- this place is unashamedly for raging carnivores – the emphasis is on meat and not the wimpish cuts, the restaurant challenges its customers.

Pig’s trotters, lamb shanks, pig’s ears, beef cheek, a wonderful pot au feu, home cured meats, rillettes, terrines – all home made . The menu also included some Quebec specialities , a comforting poutine - chips smothered with gravy with cheese nuggets and a delicious sugar tart-brilliant food and seriously hunky waiters.

On a tour of old Montreal we visited the not to be missed Montreal institution, Schwartz charcuterie, to sample the best smoked meats (Romanian style) and liver sandwiches, served with pickles and coleslaw. Schwartz’s salt the brisket for 8 days and then smoke it for 7-8 hours - real Montreal Hebrew deli food. Then on to sample bagels in Fairmont and from there to Chinatown to see Johnny Chin make Dragons beard cookies – a real character. We all crammed into his tiny shop, while we watched he took a blob of warm semi solid corn syrup, tossed it in corn flour then folded and refolded like a conjurer so fast we could scarcely see what he did. Within seconds the blob of sugar was transformed into strings of sugar, like the finest spaghetti – 13 pulls resulted in 8192 strands. (1 – to the power of 12)

Then he pulled off little pieces and wrapped them around sugar peanuts, chocolate and coconut sesame. The result Dragons Beard cookies which you pop into your mouth all in one go, the strand of sugar coating melting on your tongue, then just chew the delicious filling – a magic little confection not to be missed, if and when you get to Montreal.

Jambon Persille

Jellied Ham with parsley

Serves 12 – 16

a nice piece of ham or oyster cut about - 6 lbs (2.7kg)
2 dry white wine and 2 water or all wine
2 onions, stuck with 1 clove each
2 carrots
1 stick celery
1 small bay leaf
few sprigs of thyme
10 peppercorns
parsley stalks (keep the leaves for later)
4-5 teasp. approx. gelatine
2 ozs (55g) parsley

Soak the ham or gammon in cold water overnight or at least for a few hours, discard the soaking water, cover with fresh water and blanch and refresh three or perhaps four times, depending on how salty the ham or bacon is. Add all the remaining ingredients except the gelatine and parsley. Bring to the boil, cover and simmer for 2-22 hours depending on the blanching time - a skewer should go through easily. Remove the ham, strain the liquid through a fine sieve or one lined with muslin, degrease and allow to cool. 
Cut the ham into 1 inch (2.5cm) cubes approx. Measure the liquid and allow 4 teaspoons of gelatine for each pint - you won't need much more than a pint. Put 4 tablespoons of the cooking liquid into a small bowl, sprinkle on 4 rounded teaspoons of gelatine and allow to sponge for a few minutes while you bring a small saucepan of water to the boil. Put the bowl into the simmering water to dissolve the gelatine. When the gelatine is clear add a little of the measured liquid, stir well and then mix with the remainder, finally stirring in the finely chopped parsley. Pour the liquid over the ham and then fill into an oiled bowl or terrine (it should be about 4 inches (10 cm) deep. Cover and refrigerate overnight. 

In France it is traditionally made in a round bottomed bowl but it could be made in a rectangular terrine also. Serve in slices with summer salads. 

Darina’s Top Tips

Ham hocks 
Lots of chefs are incorporating them into their menus – cheap and delicious. Ham hocks could be substituted in the Jambon Persillee recipe – available from pork butchers and from several stalls in the English Market in Cork.
New

Everyone is talking about the new Good Things Café in Durrus in West Cork. (027-61426) Chef/owner Carmel Somers knew Jane Grigson , worked with Sally Clarke in London and at Markwicks in Bristol. Creative, contemporary cooking, using the finest West Cork artisan ingredients. Open 11-5 for lunch, coffee, teas and snacks but plans to open for dinner in June, closed Tuesday and Wednesday during May. The Café is in what was formerly the Butterfly House.

Rhubarb In season

Rhubarb is really in full season now and the first Irish strawberries have just come on the market. Make a Rhubarb and Strawberry Compote or tarts and pies while the rhubarb is still at its best.

As a very special luxury look out for seakale, a country house vegetable, rarely found in shops, but inquire from your local Farmers Market, or better still go along to the garden centre and ask for it. Cook simply in boiling salted water and serve with Hollandaise sauce – sublime!

New York, New York

Just a few weeks ago a book tour to the US took me to three cities, New York , Pennsylvania and Minneapolis . It was just a few days before the war broke out and on the face of it everything seemed normal, but somehow there was an uneasy calm. I was staying in the centre of Manhattan around the corner from the theatre district near Times Square .
News headlines were endlessly snaking across the Radio Building . Huge brash signs and posters everywhere, screaming, bouncing, gyrating, flashing to get your attention. 
This is New York, incorrigible, shameless, endless hard sell but so exciting. New Yorkers seemed to have bounced back after September 11th, ,   restaurants were full again but underneath many are still traumatized. Nineteen months later many people still find it almost impossible to talk about the experience. Others can’t stop, each struggles to find release from the horror.

Despite the buzz, restaurateurs are very apprehensive, now that war has broken out there’s more talk of recession. People are spending less, ‘eating in’ is the new ‘eating out’. A foodie friend, who can usually be relied on to have her finger on the gastronomic pulse of the Big Apple, explained that apparently in this era of fiscal constraint New York is awash again in simple gastronomic pleasures. Fancy hamburgers are the hot new dish,  short beef ribs and pork belly are all around town. “Destination dining” has given way to the cult of the neighbourhood restaurant. Home cooking is the trendy phrase among the members of the cognoscenti.

Even the city’s most lauded and adored Italian chefs are focussing their considerable energies on the safest time- honoured favourite- they’re opening pizza joints.
When I was there everyone was flocking to Otto Enoteca Pizzeria, the newest spin-off of Babbo owned by the dream team chefs, Mario Batali, Jason Denton and Jo Bastianich,  whose restaurant Esca I’ve waxed lyrical about before in these columns. 

Opened recently, Apizz is another hot spot for gourmet pizza. Here there are oblong pizzas, scissored into portions according to the customer’s whim and sold by the 1lb- a Roman idea. There are 20-30 different types of chewy burnt crust and generous toppings of earthy ingredients like artichokes, wild boar, homemade sausages and salami. This is a cash only establishment- another interesting development.

The buzz words are local, earthy, bio-dynamic, hand made, neighbourhood, craft, fresh squeezed ……. Several of the young chefs are not just liasing with the farmers to raise their really good produce, but are actually getting involved in growing produce and raising animals themselves.

Casare Casella’s spit grilled sausages served with white beans and a sprig of rosemary at Beppe are made from pigs reared on his own farm.

Danny Meyer, owner of Grammercy Tavern and Craft says”all the best food is about slow cooking cuts of meat” I had a superb lunch at Craft where the food is served ‘family style’ in bowls and platters along the centre of the table. Chef Tom Collichio’s short ribs were quite simply sublime, I bought his book on the strength of it just to try the recipe.

New York is awash with terrific restaurants at present, sadly one simply doesn’t have enough time on a short trip even though I ate breakfast, lunch and dinner everyday and sometimes afternoon tea too.

For those of you who can take advantage of the current cheap airfares, don’t miss Lupa, another of Mario Battali’s places, great gutsy Italian food.
Union Square Café is still a great favourite , meriting  top ratings in the Zagat Guide to new York City restaurants,  and if you are down in that area at the weekend go to the Farmers’ Market in Union Square to get a glimpse of the food scene and then after an amble through the stalls reward yourself with a mug of hot chocolate with a home-made marshmallow melting on top, at the City Bakery.

And finally, for a real neighbourhood restaurant seek out the place all my foodie friends are whispering about, Prune 54 East 1st Street between 1st and 2nd Avenue, where maverick chef Gabrielle Hamilton is quietly becoming a new cult. 

There’s so much more but I’ve run out of space - next week breakfast in the Big Apple.
Otto Enoteca Pizzeria – One Fifth Avenue   Tel 212 995 9559
Craft – 43 East 19th Street (between Broadway and Park avenue ) Tel 212-780- 0880
Gramercy Tavern – 42 E. 20th Street , (between Broadway & Park Avenue S. ) Tel 212 -477- 0777
Lupa – 170 Thompson Street (Bleecker and Houston Station) Tel 212-982-5089
Babbo-  110 Waverly Place, (between MacDougal St   & 6th Ave. ) Tel. 212 -777- 0303
Grammercy Tavern – 42 East 20th Street (Broadway and Park Avenue ) Tel 212-477-0777
Prune- 54 East First Street (between 20th and 21st Streets) Tel 212-677-6221
Esca – 402 West 43rd Street ( 9th Avenue ) Tel 212-564-7272
Beppe- 45 East 22nd Street (between Broadway and Park Avenue South ) Tel 212-982-8422
City Bakery – 3 W. 18th St. (between 5th & 6th Avenues) Tel 212- 366 -1414 
Apizz – 21 Eldridge St. (between Rivington and Stanton Streets) Tel 212- 253-9199
Zagat Survey  2003 New York City Restaurants -   published and distributed by Zagat Survey, LLD, 4 Columbus Circle,  New York, New York 10019, Tel. 212 977 6000, e-mail:newyork@zagat.com.  www.zagat.com    
Darina Allen’s Ballymaloe Cookery Course Cookbook has just been nominated for a James Beard award in the US , published by Kyle Cathie Ltd UK , Gill & Macmillan in Ireland and published by Penguin in USA as Darina Allen’s Ballymaloe Cooking School Cookbook.
Darina’s back to basic recipes.

Florence Bowe’s Crumpets

A great standby, 'Crumpets' can be made in minutes with ingredients you'd probably have in the house. They are also the ideal solution if you've got nothing in the tin when a friend drops in for tea, because they only take a few minutes to make and children love them.

My Auntie Florence makes the best crumpets I know, the problem is one always eats too many!  
Top Tips

If possible allow the batter to stand for an hour before using.
Use a non-stick pan – makes it easier.
Cook over a medium heat – you may need to make one or two first before you get the heat just right.
Don’t turn the crumpets on the pan until the bubbles burst, otherwise they will still be semi-raw in the centre.
Makes 15 approx.
½ lb (225g) white flour
¼ teasp. salt
½ teasp. breadsoda
1 teasp. Bextartar (cream of tartar)
2 eggs, preferably free range
8 fl ozs (250ml) milk
2 ozs (55g) castor sugar
1 oz (30g) butter
Sieve the dry ingredients into a bowl and rub in the butter. Drop the eggs into the centre, add a little of the milk and stir rapidly with a whisk allowing the flour to drop gradually in from the sides. When half the milk is added, beat until air bubbles rise. Add the remainder of the milk and allow to stand for one hour if possible. *  Drop a good dessertspoonful into a hottish pan and cook until bubbles appear on the top. It usually takes a bit of trial and error to get the temperature right. Flip over and cook until golden on the other side. Serve immediately with butter and homemade jam or better still apple jelly.

* They are usually lighter if the batter is allowed to stand but I've often cooked them immediately with very acceptable results!

Braised Short Ribs 

2 tablesp.salt and freshly ground black pepper

4 large, meaty beef short ribs, (about 4 lbs), cut in half  (ask your butcher to cut each rib in half, since smaller ribs are easier to handle, this will leave you with 8 short ribs)
1 small onion, peeled and chopped
1 carrot, peeled and chopped
1 celery stalk, peeled and chopped
3 garlic cloves, unpeeled
5 sprigs of fresh thyme
8 fresh hot cherry peppers 
4 fl.ozs sherry vinegar
16-24 fl.ozs (450-650ml) home-made chicken stock
2 sprigs fresh tarragon
Heat the oven to 350F/180C/regulo 4
Heat the oil in a large deep ovenproof casserole over medium-high heat until it shimmers.  Salt and pepper the ribs and cook them, in batches, until they are nicely browned on all sides, about 20 minutes.
Remove the ribs and add the onion, carrot, celery, garlic, 2 sprigs of thyme, and salt and pepper to the casserole.   Cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables begin to soften, about 5 minutes, then add the peppers.  Continue cooking until the vegetables are tender and browned, 5 to 10 minutes more.

Return the ribs to the casserole.   Add the vinegar and enough stock to come up the sides but not over the ribs.   Bring the braising liquid to a simmer.  Add the tarragon and remaining thyme, then transfer the casserole to the oven and cook at a very gentle simmer (just an occasional bubble) for 1 hour.   Turn the ribs and continue cooking until the meat is tender and comes easily away from the bone, about 1½ hours more.

Transfer the ribs and vegetables to a plate.  Bring the braising liquid to a simmer and skim off the fat.  Reduce the liquid slightly (just so it has a little body), then return the ribs and vegetables to the casserole.  Simmer just long enough to reheat the ribs, then serve.
Cherry peppers are about the size of large cherry tomatoes and are sweeter and fleshier than normal chillies.  They are also known as Hungarian peppers and can be found by that name bottled.   You could also substitute with a red chilli –about 3 inches long and not too narrow – red chillies are sweeter than green, being riper.
Another alternative would be to use an equivalent amount of red bell peppers and a pinch of red chilli flakes.

Easter lunch has to be lamb

I absolutely adore this time of year, everything in the garden is springing into life and the first of the new fruit and vegetables are just ready for picking. In the kitchen garden there are pale tender shoots of seakale hiding under the terracotta forcing pots and lots of delicate pink rhubarb stalks for tarts and compotes. Already we have had some spears of asparagus- just enough to have a tiny feast. 
Down in the wood the wild garlic has also made its appearance and we have been putting the tender leaves into green salads and soups and scattering the pretty white flowers as a garnish over salads and starters. However, the main excitement this week was when I took my reluctant and more than sceptical students on an expedition to gather young spring nettles and watercress to make soup. I cockily assured them that if one clasps the nettles firmly one doesn't get stung - 'We want a demonstration' they taunted, 'No problem' says yours truly who got roasted alive - Wow, Spring nettles really do sting! - so needless to say much hilarity at my expense so we quickly resorted to rubber gloves. - Here's our recipe for nettle soup which hopefully will purify the blood.
Watercress is much easier to pick, it can of course be bought in bunches in many supermarkets, but if you want to gather some yourself make sure the water in the stream is clean, no animals directly upstream. As children we always collected it in Spring, along the banks of the stream that flows through the Chapel meadows outside the village of Cullohill.

The water must be constantly flowing, watercress is packed with vitamins and minerals and its peppery taste is irresistible in salads as well as soups – its at its best and must succulent at present.
The main course for our Easter lunch has to be lamb. You’ll need to order young Spring lamb a week or two ahead – I know many people choose salmon or turkey for Easter, but for me it wouldn’t be Easter without sweet, succulent Spring lamb. You’ll need to order it ahead from your local butcher. Leg, loin or shoulder can be roasted, the latter is the most delicious of all, but more of a challenge to carve than the leg. 
Young carrots would be delish and if available the first Irish potatoes. If not, why, not make a gratin of potato and spring onion and cook it underneath the lamb so that all the juices are absorbed by the potato – saves making gravy too.

Use the first mint leaves to make a simple mint sauce. Serve a green salad of young Spring leaves – sorrel, rocket, watercress, claytonia or just mixed leaves. Scatter a few primrose flowers over the top to emphasise Spring – yes, they are edible and delicious too.
For pud for our Easter lunch – Rhubarb Tatin served with soft brown sugar and cream.
After all of that you’ll enjoy a long walk in the country or along your local strand.

Have fun and happy Easter.

Watercress or Nettle Soup

There are references to watercress in many early Irish manuscripts. It formed part of the diet of hermits and holy men who valued its special properties. Legend has it that it was watercress that enabled St. Brendan to live to the ripe old age of 180! In Birr Castle in Co. Offaly, Lord and Lady Rosse still serve soup of watercress gathered from around St. Brendan's well, just below the castle walls.
Many older people particularly still like to eat nettles several times during the month of May to purify the blood and keep away arthritis for the coming year.

Serves 6-8
12 ozs (45g) butter
5 ozs (140g) peeled and chopped potatoes
4 ozs (110g) peeled and chopped onion
Salt and freshly ground pepper
1 pint (600ml) water or home-made chicken stock or vegetable stock
1 pint (600ml) creamy milk
8 ozs (225g) chopped watercress or nettles (remove the coarse stalks)

Melt the butter in heavy bottomed saucepan, when it foams, add the potatoes and onions and toss them until well coated. Sprinkle with salt and freshly ground pepper. Cover and sweat on a gentle heat for 10 minutes. Meanwhile prepare the watercress. When the vegetables are almost soft but not coloured add the stock and milk, bring to the boil and cook until the potatoes and onions are fully cooked. Add the watercress or nettles and boil with the lid off for 4-5 minutes approx. until the watercress or nettles are cooked. Do not overcook or the soup will lose its fresh green colour. Puree the soup in a liquidiser or food processor. Taste and correct seasoning.

Glazed Carrots

If you have never cooked carrots before you might like to try this method of cooking them. Admittedly it takes a little vigilance but the resulting flavour is a revelation to many people and you won’t cook them any other way again.
Serves 4-6
1 lb (450g) carrots, Early Nantes and Autumn King have particularly good flavour
½ oz (15g) butter
4 fl ozs (100ml) cold water
Pinch of salt
A good pinch of sugar
Garnish 
Freshly chopped parsley or fresh mint
Cut off the tops and tips, scrub and peel thinly if necessary. Cut into slices â…“ inch (7mm) thick, either straight across or at an angle. Leave very young carrots whole. Put them in a saucepan with butter, water, salt and sugar. Bring to the boil, cover and cook over a gentle heat until tender, by which time the liquid should have all been absorbed into the carrots, but if not remove the lid and increase the heat until all the water has evaporated. Taste and correct the seasoning. Shake the saucepan so the carrots become coated with the buttery glaze. 
Serve in a hot vegetable dish sprinkled with chopped parsley or mint.
Tip: It’s really important to cut the carrots into the same thickness, otherwise they will cook unevenly. 
You must keep a close eye on them so they don’t burn, particularly if its your first time. 

Roast Spring Lamb with Mint Sauce

Young Spring Lamb is sweet and succulent and needs absolutely no embellishment apart from a dusting of salt and pepper and a little fresh Mint Sauce.
For me this is the quintessential taste of Easter.

Serves 6-8
1 leg of Spring lamb
salt and freshly ground pepper
Gravy
1 pint (570ml) lamb or chicken stock
a little roux
salt and freshly ground pepper
Garnish
Sprigs of fresh mint and parsley
Mint Sauce 
If possible ask your butcher to remove the aitch bone from the top of the leg of lamb so that it will be easier to carve later, then trim the knuckle end of the leg. Season the skin with salt and freshly ground pepper. Put into a roasting tin.

Preheat the oven to 180C/350F/regulo 4. Roast for 1-1¼ hours approx. for rare, 1¼ -1½ hours for medium and 1½- 2 hours for well done, depending on size. When the lamb is cooked to your taste, remove the joint to a carving dish. Rest the lamb for 10 minutes before carving.

Meanwhile make the gravy. Degrease the juices in the roasting tin, add stock. Bring to the boil and whisk in a little roux to thicken slightly. Taste and allow to bubble up until the flavour is concentrated enough. Correct the seasoning and serve hot.

Mint Sauce

Traditional Mint Sauce made with tender young shoots of fresh mint only takes minutes to make. Its the perfect accompaniment to Spring lamb but for those who are expecting a bright green jelly, the slightly dull colour and watery texture comes as a surprise. Thats how it ought to be, try it.
2 tablesp finely chopped fresh mint
2 tablesp. sugar
6-8 tablesp boiling water
2 tablesp. white wine vinegar or freshly squeezed lemon juice

Put the sugar and freshly-chopped mint into a sauce boat. Add the boiling water and vinegar or lemon juice. Allow to infuse for 5-10 minutes before serving.

Roux
4 ozs (110g) butter
4 ozs (110g) flour

Melt the butter and cook the flour in it for 2 minutes on a low heat, stirring occasionally. Use as required. Roux can be stored in a cool place and used as required or it can be made up on the spot if preferred. It will keep at least a fortnight in a refrigerator.

Gratin of Potato and Spring Onion

Potato gratins are a tasty, nourishing and economical way to feed lots of hungry people on a chilly evening, this recipe could also include little pieces of bacon or a lamb chop cut into dice, so it can be a sustaining main course or a delicious accompaniment as served here with Easter Lamb.
Serves 4 as a main course
Serves 6 as an accompaniment
3 lbs (1.5kg) 'old' potatoes, eg. Golden Wonders or Kerrs Pinks
2 bunches of spring onions
1 oz (30g) butter
3-6 ozs (85-170g) Irish mature cheddar cheese, grated
Salt and freshly ground pepper
2-: pint (300-450ml/13-1: cups) homemade chicken, beef or vegetable stock
Oval ovenproof gratin dish - 122 inch (31.5cm) long x 2 inch (5cm) high
Preheat the oven to 200C/400F/regulo 6. 

Slice the peeled potatoes thinly, blanch and refresh. Trim the spring onions and chop both the green and white parts into approx. 3 inch (5mm) slices with a scissors or a knife.

Rub an oven proof dish thickly with half the butter, scatter with some of the spring onions, then a layer of potatoes and then some grated cheese. Season well with salt and freshly ground pepper. Continue to build up the layers finishing with an overlapping layer of potatoes, neatly arranged. Pour in the boiling stock, scatter with the remaining cheese and dot with butter.

Bake in a preheated oven for 1-13 hours or until the potatoes are tender and the top is brown and crispy.

Note: It may be necessary to cover the potatoes with a paper lid for the first half of the cooking.

Rhubarb Tarte Tatin

This delectable tart is an adaptation of a traditional recipe which was originally cooked in a bastable over the open fire – everyone adores it.
One could also add a couple of teaspoons of freshly grated ginger to the rhubarb, but try it unadorned at first, its seriously good.

Serves 8-10
In season: late spring
900g (2lb) red rhubarb
255-285g (9-10oz) granulated sugar

Topping
310g (11oz) flour
20g (¾oz) castor sugar
1 heaped teaspoon baking powder
pinch of salt
55g (2oz) butter
1 egg
175ml (6floz) full cream milk, approx
egg wash
granulated sugar

23x5cm (9x2inch) round tin. We use a heavy stainless steel sauté pan which works very well, if you don’t have a suitable pan, par cook the rhubarb slightly first.
Preheat the oven to 230C/450F/regulo 8
Trim the rhubarb, wipe with a damp cloth and cut into pieces about 2.5cm (1inch) in length. Put into the base of a tin or sauté pan, sprinkle with the sugar. We put the stainless steel sauté pan on a low heat at this point while we make the dough.

Sieve all the dry ingredients into a bowl. Cut the butter into cubes and rub into the flour until the mixture resembles coarse breadcrumbs. Whisk the egg with the milk. Make a well in the centre of the dry ingredients, pour in the liquid all at once and mix to a soft dough. Turn out onto a floured board and roll into a 23cm (9inch) round about 2.5cm (1inch) thick. Place this round on top of the rhubarb and tuck in the edges neatly. Brush with a little egg wash and sprinkle with granulated sugar. 

Bake in the fully preheated oven for 15 minutes then, reduce the temperature to 180C/350F/regulo 4 for a further 30 minutes approx. or until the top is crusty and golden and the rhubarb soft and juicy.
Remove from the oven and allow to sit for a few minutes. Put a warm plate over the top of the sauté pan, turn upside down onto the plate but be careful of the hot juices. 
Serve warm with soft brown sugar and cream.

Top Tips 

Wild garlic
Wild Garlic also known as Ramsoms (Allium Ursinum) and Three cornered Garlic (Allium Triquetrum), also known as Snowbells, are in full bloom all around the countryside at the moment - many people will recognize them and smell them, as they go for walks, but not many realize that they are, not merely edible but a most delicious addition to sauce, salads and soups.

Fresh Mint
Bunches of fresh mint are now available in the supermarkets, spearmint has the most delicate flavour. Use for Mint sauce or make a fresh mint infusion –bring fresh cold water to a boil. Scald a china teapot, take a generous pinch of fresh spearmint leaves and 
crush them gently in your hand. The quantity will depend on how intense an infusion you enjoy. Put them into the scalded water. Pour the boiling water over the leaves, cover the teapot, and let them infuse for 3-4minutes. Serve immediately in china cups.

Easter Eggs 
All the shops have a range of Easter eggs and chocolate bunnies – look out for little ones to hide around the garden for the Easter Egg hunt – Marks and Spencer, Lily O’Brien and locally made Eve Chocolate and O’Conaills who sell at Midleton Farmers Market. Have a tempting peep at Hot Chocolate in Cork’s Castle Street.

The Basic Hamburger

Mince has always been looked on as the poor relation, a less desirable cousin of prime rib or sirloin. Something to be endured on days when the budget is a bit tight, but just because it’s relatively inexpensive doesn’t mean it is any less delicious.

There are a myriad of mouth-watering, yes I mean mouth-watering dishes that can be made from mince. From juicy hamburgers to saucy meatballs, from Bolognese sauce to crunchy Middle Eastern Kibbeh – one just needs to add a sprinkle of ingenuity and a liberal flavouring of herbs or spices or maybe both.

As ever the key to deliciousness is the basic raw material, it’s crucially important that the meat is well hung but freshly minced. I know that many people say that mince stays fresh for several days, I disagree and find that even when it is carefully refrigerated it sours and the flavour becomes tainted so plan to use fresh mince on the day. If your best-laid plans go awry because you are unexpectedly asked out, then shape it into a shallow block and pop it in the freezer – it will keep for 1-2 months but gradually deteriorate. However, for best results it’s best to use it within a few days. Pork, lamb, chicken, veal or even tuna can be minced but in this article I’m going to concentrate on beef mince because it is the most widely available.

Quality of the mince varies according to the cut of meat, ironically very lean cuts e.g. round can be very dry unless a percentage of fat is added. Flank, chuck and other cuts from the shoulder are fattier and have a sweeter flavour and juicer texture.

The accompaniments to mince can make the magic. The hamburger bun, lettuce, juicy tomatoes, mayonnaise, melting cheese, all enhance the experience of eating a burger. Spicy mince is so delicious wrapped in crispy lettuce leaves or stuffed into a pitta pocket or rolled up in a tortilla. Slice the top off a crispy bun, scoop out the crumb and fill generously with a juicy mince, well flavoured with fresh herbs and spices. Serve with a blob of Guacamole and some Jalapeno Relish or sweet chilli sauce.

Stuff well-flavoured mince into giant pasta shells, layer it up with a cheesy macaroni or simply sauté it off and add it to your favourite well-seasoned pasta sauce.

Tiny meat balls are also irresistible smothered in tomatoey sauce or just cooked on the pan, then served with a tasty dip. Spear them with cocktail sticks for ease of eating – so many ideas – one could quite easily eat mince in a different way for weeks on end.

Darina’s Back to Basics

Basic Hamburger

If you are complete beginner why not start by making your own hamburger.
The hamburger, the universal fast food, immortalized by the Americans and enjoyed by the rich and famous, the down and outs and all the rest of the world as well.

It can be a feast or a travesty simply a burger in a bun or an elaborate creation with lots of sauces and pickles. Hamburgers, love them or hate then they're here to stay and with a bit of effort they can be Simply Delicious.

The secret of really good hamburgers is the quality of the mince, it doesn't need to be an expensive cut but it is essential to use the beef on the day it is minced. A very small percentage of fat in the mince will make the hamburgers sweet and juicy.

Serves 4-6
3 ozs (85g) onion, finely chopped
½ oz (15g) butter
1 lb (450g) freshly minced beef - flank, chump or shin would be perfect
½ teasp. fresh thyme leaves
½ teasp. finely chopped parsley
1 small egg, beaten, preferably free range
Salt and freshly ground pepper

Olive or sunflower oil

First peel and chop the onion finely. 

Melt the butter in a low-sided saucepan and toss in the chopped onion. Cover and sweat on a low heat until soft but not coloured, allow to get cold. In a bowl mix the mince with the herbs and beaten egg, season with salt and freshly ground pepper, add the cold onions and mix well. Fry off a tiny bit on the pan to check the seasoning, correct if necessary. Then shape into hamburgers, 4-6 depending on the size you require. Cook to your taste on a medium-hot pan or grill pan in a little oil, turning once.

Burgers can be stored covered in the fridge for several hours before cooking.

Top Tips

Wet your hands with cold water before shaping the burgers to prevent the mixture sticking to your hands. 
If the hamburgers are being cooked in batches make sure to wash and dry the pan between batches. 
Burgers should not be more than one inch thick, otherwise it will be difficult to cook them through. 

Homemade hamburgers are a vast improvement on mass-produced burgers. There are endless ways to serve them – cheese burgers, bacon burgers, chilli burgers, blue-cheese burgers, mushroom burgers. …….

Spicy Moroccan Meatballs with Yoghurt and Banana Raita

These spicy meat balls have a secret centre
Makes 6
1 lb (450g) minced beef or shoulder of lamb
4 cardamom pods
1½ teasp coriander seeds
1 clove
¼-½ teasp of chilli powder
2-3 small cloves garlic mashed
Salt and freshly ground pepper
1 egg, preferably free range

2 tablesp. approx. cream cheese mixed with 1 teasp. chopped parsley, optional

Yogurt and Banana Raita

Remove the seeds from the cardamom and discard the pods. Grind the seeds with the coriander and clove, add to the minced lamb with the chilli powder and crushed garlic. Season with salt and freshly ground pepper. Fry off a tiny bit to check the seasoning. Divide the mixture into 6, shape each portion into a round 4 inch (10cm) diameter approx. Put a teaspoonful of curd cheese and parsley into the centre, gather up the edges so that the filling is completely enclosed. Repeat with the remainder of the mixture. Cover and chill until required or barbecue or fry immediately on a medium heat in a barely oiled frying pan. They will take about 5 minutes on each side. Serve immediately with a Green Salad and Banana and Yogurt Raita.

Banana and Yogurt Raita

Serves 8-10
Delicious served with either these meatballs or with mild madras curry, surprisingly it keep for days in the fridge and we've also enjoyed it as a pudding.

2 heaped tablesp. (2 ozs (55g) approx.) raisins or sultanas
1 oz (30g) blanched slivered almonds
7 fl ozs (200ml) natural yogurt
3½ fl ozs (90ml) cream or 3½ fl ozs (90ml) sour cream
1 tablesp. pure Irish honey
3 firm ripe bananas
pinch of salt
4-6 cardamom pods

Pour boiling water over the raisins or sultanas, leave for 10 minutes, toast the almonds. Mix the yogurt with the cream, add the honey, taste and add more if needed. Add the raisins and almonds, remove the seeds from the cardamom pods, crush in a pestle and mortar, slice the banana, season with a pinch of salt and add to the yogurt. Turn into a serving bowl and chill for an hour if possible.

Serve with curries and spicy dishes.

Yuk Sum

Serves 4
A delicious Chinese way of eating mince – one of my absolute favourites. 
2 tablesp. olive oil
1 teasp. ginger, freshly grated 
2 tablesp. spring onion
8 ozs (225g) minced beef or streaky pork
2 ozs (55g) mushrooms, chopped
1 oz (30g) celery, finely chopped
1 -2 tablesp. Oyster sauce
salt and freshly ground pepper
Iceberg lettuce leaves
Garnish
a of a cucumber approx. cut into 3 inch (5mm) thick julienne
8 spring onion 'sweeping brushes'

Heat a wok until very hot, add the olive oil, then add the grated ginger and spring onion, toss for a second or two, then add the meat, cook on a high heat until almost cooked, then push the meat up to the side of the wok, add the chopped mushrooms and toss until cooked. Add the celery, mix with the mushrooms and meat. Season with salt and freshly ground pepper, add the oyster sauce. Toss for a minute or two more. Taste and correct seasoning.

Put some crisp iceberg lettuce onto a plate, spoon 1-2 tablespoons of the meat mixture into the centre of each. Garnish the plate with julienne of cucumber and a couple of spring onion 'sweeping brushes'. Eat immediately by wrapping the meat, cucumber and spring onion in the lettuce to make a parcel.

Darina’s Top Tips 

Wet your hands with cold water before shaping the burgers to prevent the mixture sticking to your hands. 
If the hamburgers are being cooked in batches make sure to wash and dry the pan between batches. 
Burgers should not be more than one inch thick, otherwise it will be difficult to cook them through. 

Sweet Chilli Sauce
No kitchen should be without this perky sauce, which can be used as a dip, sauce or a flavouring for fish, meat, vegetables and stir fries – from Asian shops, Cork Market and many supermarkets. 

Tortilla Chips
Great for a nibble or to scoop up a dip. Now available not just in speciality shops but in local shops, supermarkets and even some forecourts around the country – check the flavourings, some are bizarre, I enjoy the original best.

Pitta Bread
Turkish flat bread, the everyday bread in the Eastern Mediterranean and the Middle East, but now a firm favourite not only in Europe, but in the US and Oz. This versatile soft flat bread forms a pocket as it cooks, perfect.for filling with salads, meats or vegetables, available from most supermarkets as well as ethnic shops. They can be frozen and reheat perfectly wrapped in foil in a moderate oven or quickly under the grill.

Oyster Sauce
A ‘must-have’ staple – a flavourful Cantonese sauce made of oysters, water, salt, cornflour and caramel colouring, essential flavouring in Chow Mein and Chop Suey, but if you’re not that adventurous, its still worth having a bottle in your fridge (keeps almost indefinitely) for adding to stir-fries, meat or seafood dishes or noodles or even mince- it’s a splendid flavour enhancer.

Babington House

The long avenue up to Babington House was sprinkled with drifts of snowdrops, I thought, it’s quite true Babington House spoils you for anywhere else. This special place is a country house hotel near Frome in Somerset - not all frills and flounces but simple, sophisticated and unfussy. From the moment of arrival one feels kind of easy, comfy and unhurried.

This was my second visit, this time I was back as “guest chef” on the invitation of the manager Justin Greene, formerly of Browne’s Townhouse and Brasserie on St Stephen’s Green in Dublin, and the Mandarin Oriental in Hong Kong. He has been at Babington House for almost a year now - he loves his job and has introduced several new concepts since his arrival, including the guest chef programme – I felt very chuffed to follow in the footsteps of Jamie Oliver and other fancy celebs

Babingon House and its sister hotel, Soho House in London are the brainchild of Nick Jones. Nick is incredibly engaging with great sense of fun and a brilliant feel for lifestyle. His hotels are like fantasy homes but with all the modern ‘must have’ trimmings. They appeal hugely to the young arty creative set who adore the unstuffy atmosphere where they can kick off their Jimmy Choo’s and slip into wellies.They revel in being able to detox and have an all day treatment in the Cowshed, or one can breakfast at four in the afternoon or have Champagne and Caviar or a Babington Beefburger on a floury bap, maybe a duck shepherds pie.

They can also bring along the kids (not an option in many posh country house hotels), and be sure that they’ll be able to relax because the kids will have raced off to the Little House where they are looked after by trained and fun nannies.

There’s childrens’ tea every day, the sort of food kids love with lots of chips and sausages, pasta with tomato sauce and great pizza from the wood burning oven.

For the older ones, there are ponies, goats and a pot bellied pig, lots of duck and tame water hens. If it rains there’s Scalextric, a train set, videos and lots of computer games.

Last time we visited, the proportion of kids to grown- ups seemed to have tipped the balance, not surprising considering the temptations. Nowadays the proportion of kids to grown ups is carefully managed and there’s a child free hush in the panelled library.

In the corner of the room a humidifer hums as it keeps the Montecristos in optimium nick and the snooker table confounds expectations – it’s covered in red baize. 

It’s that kind of place. Several sitting rooms and bars, stylish and comfy contemporary furniture easy with the past. Home from home for the vodka and vitamin crowd who want to live life to the full.

One sitting room can be converted into an edit suite to suit any production and doubles as a private dining room or meeting room. The dining room can accommodate anything from a grand ball to a board meeting.

The breakfast room with its wood-burning oven opens out onto a terrace for barbecues overlooking the lake.

The Georgian house is surrounded by 17 acres of grounds- a floodlit hard tennis court for midnight volleys and four grass courts for Wimbledon hopefuls. There’s even a pitch for football and cricket, less sporty types with a lower boredom threshold like me, can reveal their primitive streak on the croquet lawn.

The bedrooms are simple with polished floors and contemporary furniture, state of the art tellies and heaped goose-down pillows, superabundant warm towels, big bars of soap and a heady selection of oils and lotions,great big roll top baths for sociable soaking. Shower heads the size of soup plates made me think of the daily irritation of the dribbling shower at home.

The active set spend most of their time in the ‘Cowshed’ – so named because in a former time it was just that. Now, however it’s a beautifully converted space devoted to mind and body. So if you really want to feel that you deserve your dinner, go to the gym or have a swim through steam misting the air over two graphite pools or you might want to learn self defence, yoga or baby massage.

If this all gets too much, step into the Babington House cinema with a love bomb- herbal tea or fresh organic orange juice- better still let them pummel scented oils into every pore.

Since our last visit a Mongolian yurt and a tepee have been built near the lake and you can now choose from a selection of massages for total mind and body rejuvenation – just what I needed on this occasion, but sadly I was there to cook a dinner and not merely to be pampered.

Barnaby Jones and his team in the kitchen gave me a warm welcome, we had lots of fun and got a terrific response to the Spring dinner. 

We started the evening with drinks in the playroom where we met the guests. The meal was served family style, everyone mingled and sat at large tables, 12, 10 14’s …

The food was served on large platters so people shared and helped themselves. This immediately engendered an atmosphere and a spirit of conviviality. Within a short time complete strangers were chatting amicably and were bosom pals by the end of the evening.

Many come regularly to these guest chef evenings because of the social element as well as the food. 

In the other dining room the regular Babington House menus were being served. ‘Small plates’, winter regulars, wood oven baked pizzas, or one could opt for a Babington choice- 3 courses to share, chefs choice changes daily. Couples who would rather not spend time making decisions could opt for a menu for 2 people to share – 3 choices of starter and main course and pudding on large white platters, a brilliant idea for both the kitchen and guests.

Sadly, I had to whizz home next day but not before I’d had a delicious lunch at QV (Quartier Vert) in Bristol- a favourite restaurant of which I’ve written previously in this column.
Aer Arann flies direct from Cork to Bristol daily.
QV , White Ladies Rd, Bristol. Tel 0044 1179734482
Babington House, near Frome, Somerset. Tel 0044 1373812266. www.babingtonhouse.co.uk 
World travellers may be interested to know that Soho House New York opens in April. 
Soho House, 29-35 9th Avenue New York. Tel – 001 212 6279800.

Candied sweet potato soup

500g sweet potato
1 medium onion, chopped
1 clove garlic
sprig of thyme
80g brown sugar
50g butter
1 pint beer
½ pint orange juice
salt and pepper to taste

Peel and cut the sweet potato to a large dice, sweat the onion, garlic, sweet potato and thyme in the butter for a few minutes. Add the brown sugar and increase the heat to caramelise the sweet potato and onion mixture. Once well coloured and sticky, deglaze the pan with the beer and boil to reduce. Add the orange juice and enough water to cover and gently simmer until the potato is soft. Remove the thyme and blend the soup to a fine puree. Adjust the seasoning and thickness if required with a little more water. 
Finish with freshly ground pepper.

Seared scallops, orange cardamom reduction

3 Large fresh scallops
Mache/ lambs lettuce
1 litre fresh orange juice
3 cardamom pods
1 orange cut to segments

Place the juice and cardamom in a stainless steel pan, reduce over a medium heat until a thick syrup is formed. Place syrup in a glass jar and keep refrigerated.
Clean and trim the scallops, heat a non stick pan and add a little clarified butter and oil. Heat until almost smoking and add the scallops seasoned with a little sea salt. Cook on one side until well coloured and then turn for another 30 seconds. Remove from the heat and keep in a warm place.

To serve, toss a bunch of mache lettuce with 5 orange segments, olive oil, salt and pepper and a little lemon juice. Dress the salad in the centre of the plate, place the seared scallop around the salad and then drizzle the plate with the orange cardamom syrup. Finish with freshly ground pepper.

Rump of lamb, aubergine caviar, coriander yoghurt

200g trimmed lamb rumps
2 large aubergines
olive oil
50ml natural yoghurt
1 tblsp chopped coriander
handful of wild rocket
lemon juice
salt and pepper

Split the aubergines length ways and score the flesh, season with salt and pepper and sprinkle with olive oil. Chargrill on both sides to give a smoky flavour then sandwich the two sides back together, wrap in foil and roast in a hot oven until soft. Open the parcel and scrap out the pulp with a spoon. Place in a clean pan and cook to reduce, adjust the seasoning and add a little olive oil.

Season the lamb rumps, sear in a hot pan and then roast in a medium hot oven for 10 to15 minutes. Remove from the heat and keep warm.

Mix the yoghurt with a little lemon juice, salt and the chopped coriander.

Place the warmed aubergine caviar on the plate, carve the lamb rump and place over the caviar. Finish the plate with a spoon of the yoghurt dressing around the plate, ground black pepper and a few rocket leaves.

Mother’s Day

Mother’s Day is tomorrow so this week’s column is for the kids. Lots of ideas for those of you who would like to take over the kitchen for the day or try your hand at cooking a meal. Even one yummy dish to show your super-duper Mum how special she is would be fab.

Can’t tell you how thrilled us Mums are when you surprise us with a little present or an unexpected gesture. Breakfast in bed is always a delight, lay a tray with a pretty cloth or even a gingham napkin, if you can manage a little posy of flowers she’ll get an even bigger ‘oops in her tummy’ when you arrive in to her bedroom beaming from ear to ear.

My Mum still speaks fondly of my first attempt to bring her tea in bed. Years later I discovered that apparently the kettle wasn’t even boiling properly, but at the time she never gave me the slightest hint that the tea wasn’t perfect.

Breakfast doesn’t have to be a full Irish – you’ll need a nice pot of tea or coffee for a start. How about some mini muffins – they’re really easy to make and look adorable – a glass of freshly squeezed orange or pink grapefruit juice is a very easy way to get lots of compliments for a little effort. Just cut the citrus fruit in half around the equator and squeeze out the juice – one of those little plastic juicers works brilliantly (the peel can be dried – makes terrific firelighters).

If you ‘d rather do a cooked breakfast, why not make some sublime scrambled egg. It may not be an option but if you add a few small cubes of smoked salmon at the end, it’ll be even more luxurious – a real Mother’s Day treat.

Find a pot of lovely Irish honey for her toast or make some jam – how cool would that be! Having said that, its not a great time of the year for jam making, no ripe fruit around. Lemon curd would be a perfect solution – fresh tasting and delicious and made in minutes – a real homemade alternative and a change from the usual jams and marmalades.

If you’d prefer to rustle up something for lunch, how about a cheese fondue – so easy and great fun, all the family can tuck in – it’s a one pot meal so the extra bonus is minimum washing-up!

If however, you would like to treat your Mum to the evening off, then how about a full dinner. Here’s a suggestion for a nice easy meal that she’ll love. Try to enlist the help of the rest of the family to lay the table nicely – again a little bunch of flowers, maybe they could be persuaded to do some cards and place names – more the merrier.

Better still run a bath for your Mum to relax in while you are making dinner. Scatter some flower petals into the water, rose petals are best but scarce at this time of year, light some candles and maybe play some soothing music so she can chill out while you cook.

I suggest Carrot and Apple Salad with a sweet ‘n sour dressing for a starter – quick and tasty to make with inexpensive ingredients and non-fattening just in case she’s watching her weight.

Penne with Ginger Mushrooms and herbs for main course would be delicious, almond and chocolate meringue – a little touch of indulgence for pudding. The latter can be made several days ahead and filled on the day. The Mushroom Sauce for the pasta can also be cooked ahead if you really want to be super-organised.

You may want to give her a present of some Darina Allen choccies as an extra special treat and then you can remind her that sharing is fun too!

Good luck and don’t forget to drop me a card to let me know how it went.

Scrambled Eggs

Serves 2
Perfectly scrambled eggs are rare indeed. For perfection really fresh free range eggs are essential.
Really fresh eggs, perfectly scrambled, need no further embellishment, except perhaps a slice of hot thin toast.

4 eggs, preferably free range, organic
2 tablespoons creamy milk
a knob of butter
salt and freshly ground pepper

Break the eggs into a bowl, add the milk and season with salt and freshly ground pepper. Whisk well until the whites and yolks are well mixed. Put a blob of butter into a cold saucepan, pour in the egg mixture and stir continuously preferably with a flat bottomed wooden spoon over a low heat until the eggs have scrambled into soft creamy curds. Serve immediately on warm plates with lots of hot buttered toast or fresh soda bread.

Tip: If the plates are too hot the scrambled egg will actually over cook between the stove and the table.


Scrambled eggs with smoked salmon

A few seconds before the scrambled egg is fully cooked, add 2-3 tablespoons diced smoked salmon trimmings, stir once or twice, sprinkle with a little chopped parsley and serve immediately.
Scrambled eggs with tomato

A few seconds before the scrambled egg is fully cooked add 1 very ripe chopped tomato which has been seasoned with salt, freshly ground pepper and sugar, stir once or twice and serve immediately.


Mini Muffins

Makes 12 muffins or up to 36 mini muffins
10oz (275g) plain flour
1 level tablespoon baking powder
3oz (75g) caster sugar
½ teaspoon salt
2 medium eggs
8floz (225ml) milk
4oz (110g) melted butter
1 teaspoon vanilla extract

Preheat oven to 200C/400F/Gas mark 6

Place paper muffin cases in muffin tin. Hand whisk together sugar, eggs, milk, melted butter and vanilla. Sieve flour, salt and baking powder. Fold into beaten mixture. It should look like lumpy batter. Add filling of your choice. 

Divide mixture between 12 cases or put just over 1 teaspoon per mini muffin case. Fill almost to the top. Bake at the top of the oven for 25-30 minutes.

Cool on a wire rack.

Note: Reduce baking time to 15-20 minutes for mini muffins

Variations
Add 4 tablespoons of cocoa with 6 oz (150g) mixed chocolate chips (white, milk and plain) 
Add 4 oz (110g) fresh blueberries, roughly chopped 
Add desired amount of chocolate chips 
Add 2 cooking apples, peeled and chopped with 1 teaspoon cinnamon 
Add 2-3oz (50-75g) dried fruit (raisins, sultanas, dates) with ½ teaspoon mixed spice (optional) 


Lemon Curd

4 ozs (110g) castor sugar

2 ozs (55g) butter
grated rind and juice of 2 good lemons
2 eggs and 1 egg yolk (keep white aside for meringue)

On a very low heat melt the butter, add castor sugar, lemon juice and rind and then stir in the well beaten eggs. Stir carefully over a gentle heat until the mixture coats the back of a spoon. Draw off the heat and pour into a bowl (it will thicken as it cools.)

Carrot and Apple Salad with Sweet ‘n Sour Dressing

This delicious salad can be made in minutes from ingredients you would probably have easily to hand, but shouldn't be prepared more than half an hour ahead, as the apple will discolour. Serve either as a starter or as an accompanying salad for ham or pork.
Serves 6
8 ozs (225g) grated carrot
10 ozs (285g) grated dessert apple, e.g. Cox's Orange Pippin if available
Salt and freshly ground pepper

Dressing
2 good teaspoons pure Irish honey
1 tablespoon white wine vinegar

Garnish
A few leaves of lettuce
Sprigs of watercress or parsley
Chive flowers if you have them

Dissolve the honey in the wine vinegar. Mix the coarsely grated carrot and apple together and toss in the sweet and sour dressing. Taste and add a bit more honey or vinegar as required, depending on the sweetness of the apples.

Take 6 large side plates, white are best for this. Arrange a few small lettuce leaves on each plate and divide the salad between the plates. Garnish with sprigs of watercress or flat parsley and sprinkle with chive flowers if you have some. Season to taste.

Penne with Mushroom and Ginger Sauce

Serves 8
Mushroom and ginger sauce keeps in the fridge for 4-5 days and of course freezes perfectly. May also be used as a filling for vol au vents or pancakes or used as a vegetable.

1lb(450g) penne
8pts(4.5L) water
2 tablesp. salt

1-2oz (25-50g) butter
6 ozs (170g) onion, finely chopped
1 lb (450g) mushrooms
8 fl ozs (225ml) cream
2 teaspoon freshly grated ginger
freshly chopped parsley
1 tablesp. freshly chopped chives (optional)
a squeeze of lemon juice
salt and freshly ground pepper
2ozs (50g)(approx.) freshly grated Parmesan

To make the Mushroom and ginger sauce.

Melt the butter in a heavy bottomed saucepan until it foams. Add the chopped onions, cover and sweat on a gentle heat for 5-6 minutes or until quite soft but not coloured. Meanwhile slice and cook the mushrooms in a hot frying pan in batches if necessary. Season each batch with salt, freshly ground pepper and a tiny squeeze of lemon juice. Add the mushrooms to the onions in the saucepan, then add the cream, and grated ginger. Allow to bubble for a few minutes. Taste and correct the seasoning, and add parsley and chives if used.

To Cook the Penne

Bring a large saucepan of water to the boil to a fast rolling boil, add the salt, add the penne, stir well. Bring back to the boil for 4 minutes. Turn off the heat, keep covered and allow to sit in the saucepan for 10 minutes approximately.

Drain, reheat the Mushroom and Ginger sauce, toss with the pasta.

Sprinkle with a little Parmesan and some flat parsley and serve immediately.

Almond and Chocolate Meringue

Serves 6
12 ozs (45g) almonds
2 egg whites 
42 ozs (125g.) icing sugar

Filling
12 oz (45g) good quality dark chocolate eg Bournville
2 pint (300ml) whipped cream
1 tablesp. Rum (optional)
1 tablesp. single cream
Decoration
5 toasted almonds

Check that the bowl is dry, spotlessly clean and free of grease. Blanch and skin the almonds. Grind or chop them up. They should not be ground to a fine powder but should be left slightly coarse and gritty. Mark two 72 inch (19cm) circles or heart shapes on silicone paper or a prepared baking sheet. Mix all the sugar with the egg whites at once and beat until the mixture forms stiff dry peaks. Fold in the almonds. Divide the mixture between the 2 circles or heart shapes and spread evenly with a palette knife. Bake immediately in a cool oven, 150C/300F/regulo 2 for 45 minutes or until crisp they should peel off the paper easily, turn off the oven and allow to cool.

To make the filling
Melt the chocolate with the rum (if using) and single cream very gently in a very cool oven, or over hot water. Cool and then fold the mixture into the whipped cream.

To assemble
Sandwich the meringues together with the filling. Decorate with rosettes of chocolate and rum cream stuck with halved toasted almonds.

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