Marmalade Time Again.

The Malaga oranges have just arrived in the shops, I know there are millions of people out there who reckon life is far too short to make marmalade but believe it or not I can’t wait to get started.

I love making marmalade. I love the smell that permeates through the whole house, the way it steams up the kitchen windows and the smug feeling of delicious satisfaction when you survey the result of your hard work – jars and jars with thick peel glistening through the glass. I even love the chopping and slicing that many find ridiculously labourious, for me it’s therapeutic, a ‘high stool’ job where I can just effortlessly slice and dream for as long as it takes to do the job. A sharp knife is definitely a bonus otherwise it does become tedious.

One could and many do just chuck the peel into a food processor and press the pulse button – it’s faster of course but I’m not keen on the sludgy texture that method produces.

Marmalade aficionados take all this very seriously after all it can ruin your day if the morning toast and marmalade are not just right, so I know it will resonate with lots of people.

Favourite recipes have been passed down in families for generations, some of us love dark bitter marmalade, others prefer a fresher fruitier preserve, I came across this recipe for Kumquat marmalade in Sydney. Kumquats are far less expensive in Australia but it is so worth making at least one batch. Of course its gorgeous on hot buttered toast but it’s also terrific with goat cheese and rocket on crostini as a little nibble or a starter add a couple of tablespoons into a duck gravy with a squeeze or two of lemon juice to make a cheats orange sauce.

Some people like to add a little fresh ginger or whiskey to their marmalade and very good it is too. It also has an extra cachet if you want to sell some at your local farmers market.

For those who enjoy more of a ‘little chip’ marmalade simply slice the peel into the finest julienne you can manage.

 

Seville Whole Orange Marmalade 

Most recipes require you to slice the orange peel first, but with this one you boil the oranges whole and then slice the cooked peel later. With any marmalade it is vital that the original liquid has reduced by half or, better still, two-thirds before the sugar is added; otherwise it takes ages to reach a set and both the flavour and colour will be spoiled. A wide, low-sided stainless-steel saucepan is best for this recipe, about 35.5cm (14 inches) deep and 40.5cm (16 inches) in diameter. If you don’t have one that big, then cook the marmalade in two batches.

Makes about 5.8–6.75kg (13–15lb)

2.25kg (4 1⁄2lb) Seville or Malaga oranges (organic if possible)

4kg (9lb) sugar, warmed

Wash the oranges and put them in a stainless-steel saucepan with 5.2 litres (9 pints) of water. Put a plate on top of the oranges to keep them under the surface of the water. Cover the saucepan, then simmer gently until the oranges are soft, about 2 hours. Cool and drain, reserving the water. (If more convenient, leave overnight and continue next day.)

Put a chopping board onto a large baking tray with sides so you won’t lose any juice. Then cut the oranges in half and scoop out the soft centre. Slice the peel finely and put the pips into a muslin bag.

Put the escaped juice, sliced oranges and the muslin bag of pips into a large, wide stainless-steel saucepan with the reserved cooking liquid. Bring to the boil, reduce by half or, better still, two-thirds. Add the warmed sugar and stir over a brisk heat until dissolved. Boil fast until setting point is reached. Pot in sterilised jars and cover immediately. Store in a dark, airy cupboard.

Kumquat Marmalade

Kumquats are expensive and fiddly to slice, but this is so worth making. I was given this recipe by an Australian friend called Kate Engel.

Makes 3 x 370g (13oz) pots

1kg (2 1⁄4lb) kumquats

1.8kg (4lb) sugar, warmed

Slice the kumquats thinly crossways. Put the seeds into a small bowl with

225ml (8fl oz) of water and leave overnight. Put the kumquats in a larger bowl with 1.5 litres (2.5 pints) of water, cover and also leave overnight. Next day, strain the seeds and reserve the liquid (this now contains the precious pectin, which contributes to the setting of the jam). Discard the seeds. Put the kumquat mixture into a large saucepan with the reserved liquid from the seeds. Bring to the boil, reduce the heat and simmer, covered, for 10 minutes or until the kumquats are very tender.  Remove the lid and reduce to about half the original volume.

Add the warmed sugar and stir until it is fully dissolved. Bring the mixture back to the boil and cook rapidly with the lid off for about 15 minutes. Remove the pan from the

heat while testing for a set by putting a teaspoon of the mixture on a cold saucer (it should barely wrinkle when pressed with a finger) 

Pour into sterilized jars. Cover, seal and store in a cool, dry place

Helen Morgan’s Lime Marmalade

Makes 10 x 200ml (7fl oz) jars

juice and coarsely grated zest of

8 organic limes

2kg (4lb 8oz) sugar, warmed

Put the lime zest and juice into a stainless-steel saucepan. Tie everything that remains into a muslin bag and add to the saucepan with 3 litres (51⁄4 pints) of water. Bring to the boil and simmer until reduced by two-thirds. Remove from the heat. When cool enough to handle, take the muslin bag out.

Place the remaining mixture in a food-processor and whizz until smooth. Add back to the saucepan, bring to the boil and add the warmed sugar. Stir to dissolve. Bring back to the boil and cook until set, about 10–15 minutes. Pour into sterilised jars and seal immediately. Store in a cool, dry place.

How to Heat the Sugar

Heat the sugar in a stainless-steel bowl in a moderate oven for about 15 minutes. It should feel hot to the touch. Be careful not to leave it in too long or the sugar will begin to melt around the edges of the bowl and will eventually caramelize.

Why heat the sugar?

The faster jam is made, the fresher and more delicious it tastes. If you add cold sugar to jam, it will take longer to return to the boil and will taste less fresh

Seville Orange Marmalade Ice Cream

Here is a great way to show off your homemade marmalade. Remove this ice cream from the freezer at least 10 minutes before serving.

Serves 12–16

Ballymaloe Vanilla Ice Cream

zest of 2 organic oranges

4 tablespoons Seville Whole Orange Marmalade

For the Sauce

half a pot (185g/61⁄4oz) Seville Whole Orange Marmalade

juice of 1 orange

Make the Ballymaloe vanilla ice cream, adding in the orange zest to the mousse, and then folding the softly whipped cream into it. Pour into a bowl, cover and freeze.

When the ice cream is semi-frozen, remove it from the freezer. Chop the marmalade peel into 5mm (1⁄4in) pieces and fold with the rest of the marmalade into the ice cream. Cover and freeze.Serve with a little sauce made by thinning the marmalade with orange juice.

Almond Meringues with Kumquat Marmalade and Cream

Serves 6 – 8

Almond meringues

1 1/2 ozs (45g) almonds

2 egg whites

4 1/2 ozs (125g) icing sugar

Filling

kumquat marmalade 3/4 of a 370g (13oz) pot

whipped cream or crème fraiche

First make the meringue.

Check that the bowl is dry, spotlessly clean and free of grease. Blanch and skin the almonds. Grind or chop them up. They should not be ground to a fine powder but should be left slightly coarse and gritty. Mark two 7 1/2 inch (19cm) circles or heart shapes on silicone paper or a prepared baking sheet. Mix all the sugar with the egg whites at once and beat until the mixture forms stiff dry peaks. Fold in the almonds. Divide the mixture between the 2 circles or heart shapes and spread evenly with a palette knife. Bake immediately in a cool oven, 150°C/300°F/regulo 2 for 45 minutes or until crisp they should peel off the paper easily, turn off the oven and allow to cool.

To finish

Put one of the discs of meringue onto a lovely serving plate, spread with a layer of softly whipped cream, top with an even amount of kumquat marmalade. Top with the other disc of meringue. Decorate the top with a few rosettes of cream, kumquats and maybe a few fresh mint leaves.

Marmalade Bread and Butter Pudding

Serves 6-8

This is a variation on basic bread and butter pudding.   If you like, leave out the marmalade and serve plain, or add chopped rhubarb, chopped chocolate, grated lemon or orange zest, raisins, sultanas, cinnamon, nutmeg etc.  This is a great way to use up stale bread, and in fact is better if the bread is stale.

12 slices of good –quality white bread, crusts removed

50g (2 ozs) soft butter

3-4 tablespoons marmalade

450ml (16fl.ozs) cream

225ml (8fl.oz) milk

4 eggs

150g (5 1/2 oz) caster sugar

2 tablespoons granulated sugar 

To Serve

softly whipped cream

marmalade sauce

Preheat the oven to 180°C/350°F/gas 4.  Butter the bread and spread marmalade on each slice.  Arrange the bread butter side down in the gratin dish or in individual cups or bowls (cut the slices if you need to).  I like to have overlapping triangles of bread on the top layer.

Place the cream and milk in a saucepan and bring to just under the boil.  While it’s heating up, in a separate bowl whisk the eggs and the caster sugar, then pour the hot milk and cream in with the eggs and whisk to combine.  Pour this custard over the bread and leave it to soak for 10 minutes. Sprinkle the granulated sugar on top. Place in a bain marie (water bath) and cook in the preheated oven for 1 hour.  The top should be golden and the centre should be just set.  Serve with softly whipped cream and marmalade sauce (see below).

Note: If you want to make this a day ahead of time, don’t heat up the milk and cream, just pour it cold over the bread.

Marmalade Sauce

1 jar (400-450g/14ozs – 1lb) 3 fruit or homemade marmalade

60ml (2 1/2 fl ozs) water

juice of 1/2 – 1 lemon

Put the marmalade into a saucepan.  Add the water and the juice of 1/2 – 1 lemon to taste.  Heat all the ingredients gently.  Place in a jug and serve with the bread and butter pudding.

FoolProof Food

French Toast Fingers with Citrus Marmalade Butter

Serves 4-6

4 eggs free-range and organic if possible

225 ml (8fl oz) full cream milk

2 tablespoons sugar

1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

12 slices, best quality white yeast bread, ¾ inch thick

Sunflower oil or clarified butter

Marmalade butter

110g (4oz) butter softened slightly

2-3 tablespoons citrus marmalade, chopped

Icing sugar in a dredger

First make the Marmalade butter.

Cream the butter and beat in the chopped marmalade. Transfer to a serving bowl. Whisk the eggs well in a bowl with the milk, sugar and vanilla.  Cut the bread into rectangular pieces and soak the bread fingers in batches until they are well saturated but not falling apart. 

Heat a large, preferably non-stick pan over medium heat, add a little oil or clarified butter. Cook the soaked bread fingers, turning, until golden brown, about 1 minute per side.  Serve immediately, or keep warm in the oven.  Repeat with the remaining ingredients.

Transfer the French toast to a hot plate, dredge over a little icing sugar and serve with Marmalade butter.

Hottips

Catex Catering Exhibition is on again at the RDS in Dublin from Tuesday 8th – Thursday 10th February this year. Over 200 exhibitors of equipment, food and beverages disposables, and services. To see the full schedule of events check out www.catexexhibition.com

Congratulations to Michael Quinn – past Ballymaloe Cookery School student who is now Head chef of Waterford Castle –who won Just Ask Restaurant of Month Award in December 2010. Michael is well renowned for using local produce on his menu and he was delighted with the recognition, “The award is about the fantastic artisan producers I work with at the castle. Without these people, chefs like me would find it difficult to succeed. Now is the time to support our own local producers instead of sending our money abroad. We need to think and buy local.” Waterford Castle Phone: +353 51 878 203

How to Keep a few Chickens in the Garden – What could be nicer than a ready supply of beautiful, fresh, free range, organic eggs, or a delicious, plump, succulent free range, organic chicken for the pot? Darina Allen will show you how at Ballymaloe Cookery School Saturday 5^th March 9:30am to 5:00pm. To book www.cookingisfun.ie 021 4646785

Ballymaloe Vanilla Ice Cream

zest of 2 organic oranges

4 tablespoons Seville Whole Orange Marmalade

For the Sauce

half a pot (185g/61⁄4oz) Seville Whole Orange Marmalade

juice of 1 orange

Make the Ballymaloe vanilla ice cream, adding in the orange zest to the mousse, and then folding the softly whipped cream into it. Pour into a bowl, cover and freeze.

When the ice cream is semi-frozen, remove it from the freezer. Chop the marmalade peel into 5mm (1⁄4in) pieces and fold with the rest of the marmalade into the ice cream. Cover and freeze.Serve with a little sauce made by thinning the marmalade with orange juice.

 

Almond Meringues with Kumquat Marmalade and Cream

 

Serves 6 – 8

 

Almond meringues

 

1 1/2 ozs (45g) almonds

2 egg whites

4 1/2 ozs (125g) icing sugar

 

Filling

 

kumquat marmalade 3/4 of a 370g (13oz) pot

whipped cream or crème fraiche

First make the meringue.

Check that the bowl is dry, spotlessly clean and free of grease. Blanch and skin the almonds. Grind or chop them up. They should not be ground to a fine powder but should be left slightly coarse and gritty. Mark two 7 1/2 inch (19cm) circles or heart shapes on silicone paper or a prepared baking sheet. Mix all the sugar with the egg whites at once and beat until the mixture forms stiff dry peaks. Fold in the almonds. Divide the mixture between the 2 circles or heart shapes and spread evenly with a palette knife. Bake immediately in a cool oven, 150°C/300°F/regulo 2 for 45 minutes or until crisp they should peel off the paper easily, turn off the oven and allow to cool.

To finish

Put one of the discs of meringue onto a lovely serving plate, spread with a layer of softly whipped cream, top with an even amount of kumquat marmalade. Top with the other disc of meringue. Decorate the top with a few rosettes of cream, kumquats and maybe a few fresh mint leaves.

Marmalade Bread and Butter Pudding

 

Serves 6-8

 

This is a variation on basic bread and butter pudding.   If you like, leave out the marmalade and serve plain, or add chopped rhubarb, chopped chocolate, grated lemon or orange zest, raisins, sultanas, cinnamon, nutmeg etc.  This is a great way to use up stale bread, and in fact is better if the bread is stale.

12 slices of good –quality white bread, crusts removed

50g (2 ozs) soft butter

3-4 tablespoons marmalade

450ml (16fl.ozs) cream

225ml (8fl.oz) milk

4 eggs

150g (5 1/2 oz) caster sugar

2 tablespoons granulated sugar

To Serve

softly whipped cream

marmalade sauce

Preheat the oven to 180°C/350°F/gas 4.  Butter the bread and spread marmalade on each slice.  Arrange the bread butter side down in the gratin dish or in individual cups or bowls (cut the slices if you need to).  I like to have overlapping triangles of bread on the top layer.

Place the cream and milk in a saucepan and bring to just under the boil.  While it’s heating up, in a separate bowl whisk the eggs and the caster sugar, then pour the hot milk and cream in with the eggs and whisk to combine.  Pour this custard over the bread and leave it to soak for 10 minutes. Sprinkle the granulated sugar on top. Place in a bain marie (water bath) and cook in the preheated oven for 1 hour.  The top should be golden and the centre should be just set.  Serve with softly whipped cream and marmalade sauce (see below).

Note: If you want to make this a day ahead of time, don’t heat up the milk and cream, just pour it cold over the bread.

Marmalade Sauce

 

1 jar (400-450g/14ozs – 1lb) 3 fruit or homemade marmalade

60ml (2 1/2 fl ozs) water

juice of 1/2 – 1 lemon

Put the marmalade into a saucepan.  Add the water and the juice of 1/2 – 1 lemon to taste.  Heat all the ingredients gently.  Place in a jug and serve with the bread and butter pudding.

 

FoolProof Food

French Toast Fingers with Citrus Marmalade Butter

 

Serves 4-6

4 eggs free-range and organic if possible

225 ml (8fl oz) full cream milk

2 tablespoons sugar

1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

12 slices, best quality white yeast bread, ¾ inch thick

Sunflower oil or clarified butter

Marmalade butter

110g (4oz) butter softened slightly

2-3 tablespoons citrus marmalade, chopped

Icing sugar in a dredger

First make the Marmalade butter.

Cream the butter and beat in the chopped marmalade. Transfer to a serving bowl. Whisk the eggs well in a bowl with the milk, sugar and vanilla.  Cut the bread into rectangular pieces and soak the bread fingers in batches until they are well saturated but not falling apart. 

Heat a large, preferably non-stick pan over medium heat, add a little oil or clarified butter. Cook the soaked bread fingers, turning, until golden brown, about 1 minute per side.  Serve immediately, or keep warm in the oven.  Repeat with the remaining ingredients.

Transfer the French toast to a hot plate, dredge over a little icing sugar and serve with Marmalade butter.

Hottips

 

Catex Catering Exhibition is on again at the RDS in Dublin from Tuesday 8th – Thursday 10th February this year. Over 200 exhibitors of equipment, food and beverages disposables, and services. To see the full schedule of events check out www.catexexhibition.com

Congratulations to Michael Quinn – past Ballymaloe Cookery School student who is now Head chef of Waterford Castle –who won Just Ask Restaurant of Month Award in December 2010. Michael is well renowned for using local produce on his menu and he was delighted with the recognition, “The award is about the fantastic artisan producers I work with at the castle. Without these people, chefs like me would find it difficult to succeed. Now is the time to support our own local producers instead of sending our money abroad. We need to think and buy local.” Waterford Castle Phone: +353 51 878 203

How to Keep a few Chickens in the Garden – What could be nicer than a ready supply of beautiful, fresh, free range, organic eggs, or a delicious, plump, succulent free range, organic chicken for the pot? Darina Allen will show you how at Ballymaloe Cookery School Saturday 5^th March 9:30am to 5:00pm. To book www.cookingisfun.ie 021 4646785

A new batch of students have just arrived from far and wide to start the January 12 Week Cooking Course. There are 8 nationalities, lots of Irish and British of course but also American, Dutch, Swedish, German, and two girls from India. On the first morning we walk through the farm and sleepy winter gardens and I introduce them to our gardeners and farm manager and remind them that these are the real food heroes who labour day in day out to produce the wonderful indregients they will be fortunate enough to cook with over the next three months. Then we show them how to sow a seed and give each one of the students a seedling which they plant into the soil in the greenhouse. This time it was coriander, which should be ready to use in about six weeks. I know no better way to give students a respect for food and those who produce it than to show them how to sow a seed. As they watch it grow the excitement and anticipation mounts so they are much more likely to respect it when it gets into the kitchen. In an era when the cheapness of food is a major issue and farmers and food producers are being squeezed more and more, I thought Cork vegetable grower Trevor Martin son of Declan Martin of Waterfall Farm in Cork answer to Ella McSweeney on Ear to the Ground on RTE1 recently hit the nail on the head. When asked by Ella ‘what would you say to those who think vegetables could be cheaper?’ he replied ‘People don’t realise there is a lot of expenditure and work that goes on behind the scenes, they should try growing some vegetables themselves and see’

Fortunately more and more people are discovering the reality of what’s involved but also the thrill of growing your own even if it’s only a fresh few herbs or salad leaves.

More and more chefs too are getting in on the act; they too know how vital really good produce is when trying to create the ‘wow factor’ on the plate. Here in Ireland chefs like Paul Flynn of the Tannery in Dungarvan are leading the way and of course Myrtle Allen of Ballymaloe House has incorporated produce from the walled garden and greenhouses into the menu ever since it opened 46 years ago.

On a recent trip to New Zealand. I discovered that the big buzz down under is about the new breed of gardener-chefs who have discovered that a kitchen garden makes sound sense for a restaurant both financially and aesthetically. Some like Adam Newell of Zibibbo in Wellington got started because he was frustrated by not being able to source the quality and variety of fresh herbs over the winter period and the sheer cost. He understandably wondered “how hard can it be to grow your own?” so he and his co-owner Anthony Shore invested in a few packets of seeds and now have a ready supply from their own garden and now no longer buy in herbs.

When guests come to Riverstone Kitchen in Oamaru – on the South Island – they can get a preview of the seasonal produce that will feature on the menu as they stroll around the 300 square metre garden before dinner.

Charismatic chef, Jonny Schwass of Restaurant Schwass in Christchurch on the South Island is one of the leaders of the movement. When guests ask where the vegetables come from he can truthfully reply from ‘My Garden’ his wittily named vegetable patch at West Malton where his two business partners spend over 30 hours a week cultivating 150 different varieties of herbs and vegetables. The result was reflected on the plate – and in the attitude of the staff who were just as excited as Jonny about the project – our dinner was vibrant and delicious.  Both waiters and chefs are involved and visit the garden and help with the harvesting twice a week. Jonny reckons that restaurants in general “take more than they give” so this is his way of reconnecting with the earth. Most of the new gardener-chefs like Jonny are growing organically but can’t be bothered with certification –

Also in the Christchurch area, the luxury Otahuna Lodge is a beacon. A century ago it was a grand, virtually self sufficient country estate with its own dairy orchards and kitchen garden. Since becoming a luxury lodge in Tai Tapu – just twenty minutes drive from Christchurch city – it has had a new lease of life and has been taken to even greater heights – a potting shed has been converted into a mushroom house, a paddock is now a fertile kitchen garden, pineapples grow in a hothouse, olive trees have been planted and apples, quince and medlars still come from the original orchard. Pork and beef comes from the estate and home cured prosciutto, bresaola and jars of preserved home grown lemons fill the pantry. It was closed during our visit for post earthquake restoration but should reopen soon.

Two other restaurants on the South Island really impressed me, we loved Jason Innes food so much at Amisfield Winery – 15 minutes drive from central Queenstown, on the way to Arrowtown and Wanaka – that we returned twice. He too has a little fresh herb patch beside the restaurant kitchen and goes to considerable lengths to source terrific produce. Our waitress was a delightful ex Anglo banker from Tipperary!

New Zealand has great fish. Our best fish meal was at the buzzy restaurant Fishbone in Queenstown. Owners – Mark Godden, front of house and Darren Lovell, head chef – have also caught the gardening bug. They have a vegetable patch not far from the restaurant and grow beautiful salad leaves, herbs and some vegetables to compliment their spanking fresh fish and shellfish – there are many others– more and more diners appreciate knowing where their produce comes from and a walk through the garden seems to really whet their appetites.

www.tannery.ie

www.ballymaloe.ie

www.zibibbo.co.nz

www.restaurantschwass.com

www.otahuna.co.nz

www.amisfield.co.nz

www.soulbar.co.nz

 

Monkfish Goujons with Harissa and Coriander Mayonnaise

This is my interpretation of a very moreish snack I tasted in Soul a restaurant on the waterfront in Auckland – they used snapper but monkfish works brilliantly here. Great for a starter or finger food. The beer batter produces a crisp coating for fish sometimes I dispense with the water and just use beer.

Serves 6 to 8

450g (1lb)  trimmed monkfish

Beer Batter

250g (9oz) self raising flour

good pinch of salt

4 fl ozs (110ml) beer

6 – 8 fl ozs (175 – 225ml) cold water

Sieve the flour and salt into a bowl.  Make a well in the centre and gradually whisk in the beer and water until the batter is a light coating consistency.

Mayonnaise

1 – 2 tablespoons Harissa

2 tablespoons coarsely chopped fresh coriander leaves

 

 

First make the mayonnaise, add the Harissa and coarsely chopped coriander. Taste and correct seasoning.

Cut the monkfish into fingers, no larger than 1cm (1/3in) square and 7 ½ cm (3in) long. To serve: heat the oil in a deep fry to 180°C. Dip the Goujons one at a time into the batter, shake off excess batter, and cook just a few at a time (test one first to check the seasoning)

Drain well on kitchen paper. Serve immediately in a basket or on a plate with a bowl of Harissa mayonnaise.

Harissa

Makes 100g (3 1/2oz)

10 dried red chillies, soaked in warm water for 20 minutes

5 fresh red chillies

2 cloves of garlic, crushed

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1 teaspoon ground coriander

1/2 teaspoon salt

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

Deseed and roughly chop the dried and fresh chillies.  Put in a food processor with the garlic, cumin, coriander, salt and olive oil.  Whizz until smooth. 

Store in a jar with a layer of olive oil over the top.  It will keep for 3 months.

 

Spiced Cauliflower Florets with Aoili

 

Lots of cauliflower in restaurants in different guises – this little recipe is cheap, cheerful, utterly delicious, filling and seasonal. Here you can omit the cumin entirely if you prefer, the cauliflower fritters will still be delicious.

 

Serves 8 approximately

1 medium cauliflower divided into florets

2 free range eggs

200g (7oz) white flour

125g (4 ½ oz) Parmesan, Desmond, Gabriel or Coolea

125g (4 ½ oz) fine bread crumbs

salt and freshly ground pepper and freshly ground cumin

Aioli (garlic mayonnaise)

Trim the cauliflower leaves and stalks, save and use for cauliflower cheese. Divide cauliflower florets into nice size pieces to pick up.

Bring 1.2 litres (2 pints) water to the boil, add 2 teaspoons of salt. Add the cauliflower florets (do in batches if necessary). Bring back to the boil, cook for 2 to 3 minutes. Remove and refresh under cold water, drain very well.

Make the Aoili and add a teaspoon of freshly ground cumin. Taste, correct seasoning. To serve, heat oil in a deep fry or in a frying pan with 2.5cm (1 in) oil over a medium heat. Dip the florets in flour well seasoned with salt and freshly gound pepper and a little freshly roasted ground cumin. Dip in well beaten egg and first finely grated Parmesan or better still Desmond, Gabriel or mature Coolea – our beautiful Irish cheese. Fry the cauliflower fritters a few at a time in the hot oil, drain on kitchen paper. Serve immediately with a bowl of Aoili to dip.

 

Pork Belly with Green and Black Olive Tapenade

Inspired by a dish I ate at Amisfield Winery near Queenstown on the South Island of New Zealand.

Serves 6 – 8

1 x 2.2kg (5lb) pork belly with crackling

rocket leaves

green and black olive Tapenade (see recipe)

flakes of sea salt

Score the pork at 5mm (¼in) intervals. Sprinkle both the rind and flesh side with salt and allow to season for 2 – 3 hours. Wash and dry well. Preheat the oven to 180°C/350ºF/gas mark 4.  Put the pork, skin side up on a chopping board, season with Maldon sea salt and cracked black pepper.  Pour 1cm (1/2 inch) water into a roasting tin and roast the joint on a wire rack in the roasting tin.  Allow 25-28 minutes per 450g (1lb). Baste with the rendered pork fat every now and then.

Meanwhile make the Green and Black Tapenade.

 

Green and Black Olive Tapenade

75g (3oz) black olives, stoned Kalamata

75g (3oz) green olives, Picholine

2 large cloves garlic, peeled and chopped

2 anchovies

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

Put the olives, garlic, anchovies and olive oil into a food processor and whizz for a few seconds – just long enough to chop the olives fairly coarsely: it shouldn’t be a puree.

Cut a slice of belly 5cm (2in) thick. Choose a rectangular plate if possible. Scatter a few rocket leaves along the plate and lay the piece of pork on top. Drizzle some Tapenade along the plate. Sprinkle the pork with a few flakes of sea salt and serve.

 

Affrogata

Jason Innes from Amisfield Winery served a do-it-yourself Affrogata on a round plate in a cappuccino cup and saucer, a scoop of vanilla ice-cream and a shot of espresso on the side. The diner pours the steaming coffee over the ice cream and tucks in – simple and sublime.

 

Homemade Vanilla Ice-cream

Serves 6-8

This ice-cream is very rich and very delicious, made on an egg mousse base with softly-whipped cream and flavourings added. Ice-creams made in this way have a smooth texture and do not need further whisking during the freezing period. They should not be served frozen hard. Remove from the freezer at least 10 minutes before serving.

50g (2oz) sugar

100ml (4fl oz) water

2 egg yolks, preferably free-range and organic

1/2 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

600ml (1pint) softly whipped cream

Put the egg yolks into a bowl and whisk until light and fluffy (keep the whites for meringues). Combine the sugar and water in a small heavy-bottomed saucepan, stir over heat until the sugar is completely dissolved, then remove the spoon and boil the syrup until it reaches the ‘thread’ stage, 106-113°C (236°F). It will look thick and syrupy; when a metal spoon is dipped in, the last drops of syrup will form thin threads. Pour this boiling syrup in a steady stream onto the egg yolks, whisking all the time. Add vanilla extract and continue to whisk until it becomes a thick creamy white mousse. Fold the softly-whipped cream into the mousse, pour into a bowl, cover and freeze.

 

Hottips

 

These dark evenings are just perfect to rummage through seed catalogues, and plan your raised bed or vegetable plot, however small. The GIY (Grow it Yourself) Ireland website is also a great resource www.giyireland.com tons of great advice and tips from both experienced growers and bewildered beginners. Michael Kelly founder of the GIY (Grow it Yourself) movement in Ireland will speak at Cork Free Choice Consumer Group monthly event on self sufficiency, sustainability and how to get good food from the back garden. Crawford Gallery Café Thursday 27^th January 7:30pm. The entrance of €6.00 includes tea/coffee.

Food Writing Course with Ross Golden Bannon (editor Food and Wine Magazine)- Saturday 19th February 2011 – 9:30am to 5:00pm learn all about the many different styles of food writing (both contemporary and historical) and lots of practical tips including how to best get your work published. www.cookingisfun.ie 021 4646785

New Zealand could teach us a thing or two in a number of food related areas, they are obsessive about keeping plant animal and insect diseases out of the country. So woe betide anyone who tries to smuggle anything in or forgets they have a piece of fruit in the bottom of their bag. There are plenty of warnings at the points of entry, fines for the heedless are substantial and rightly so. Agriculture is a huge part of GNP. Fonterra is the biggest dairy company in the world and is responsible for more than a third of all international dairy trade and 25% of New Zealand’s export earnings. Kiwi dairy farmers are doing well at present.

As in Ireland, New Zealand can grow brilliant grass yet New Zealand butter didn’t seem to be so highly regarded in some foodie circles. Twice when I enquired about the best butter, I was surprised when it was suggested that I buy Lurpak.

In New Zealand, as in this part of the world artisan producers are growing in numbers and their produce despite recession is gaining popularity. Cuisine Wine Country magazine lists not only the top wine makers but the Farmer’s Markets and Artisan Producers and of course câfes and restaurants on both North and South Islands.

Farmers Markets are a good place to get a real insight into what local people are eating. I visited several during the course of a couple of weeks. The Hawkes Bay Farmer’s Market in Hastings is the original and many would say still the best in New Zealand. It’s held every Sunday and is run by a voluntary committee. It’s mid Summer down under now so the stalls were over flowing with fruit and vegetables. The asparagus season was just over but there was a abundance of gorgeous cherries, stone fruit and berries. The New Zealanders have always been great picklers so there were lots of creative combinations made with both exotic garden and wild fruits.

I particularly loved Gernots preserves at the Hawkes Bay Farmers Market – sublime jams and jellies – all made from fruit grown in the local area – Crab apple and saffron Jelly, Apricot and Gin Jam, Tangelo and Cointreau Marmalade…

Another company make a range of delicious products from St Andrews Limes including a superb lime and passion fruit curd, Feijoa and Black Pepper Jelly and a Lime and Fig Marmalade – divine.

The Damson Company in Havelock North had a fantastically good damson paste, damson vinaigrette, damson chocolates and damson liqueur which is just like our damson gin. They have already been a recipient of the Cuisine Artisan Food Awards.

The North Island of New Zealand particularly is blessed with a Mediterranean climate hence the thriving wine and a growing olive oil industry. On the North Island we also made it our business to be in Matakana for the Saturday Farmer’s Market one of the most stylish markets I’ve been to in any country.

We visited various farmers and cheese makers and a Omaha Blueberry farm where Robert and Shannon Auton grow 40 acres of organic blueberries close to the beach. Again they are highly innovative and even though they sell huge quantities of fresh blueberries, they encourage people to come onto the farm to eat their homemade blueberry ice cream, sorbets, yogurt and smoothies. I also visited Heilala Vanilla Company. The vanilla grows on the Pacific Island of Tonga and is processed in Tauranga on the North Island. In just a few short years Heilala Vanilla has swept the boards and beat all comers in blind tastings. They can scarcely keep up the demand for their vanilla extract, concentrated vanilla syrup and of course plump vanilla pods. The enterprise has saved an entire community in Tonga and they plan to market over this side of the world before too long.

The farmhouse cheese industry is also growing, we visited several dairies including Over the Moon in Putaruru on the road between Hamilton and Rotorua. They make a variety of cow, goat and sheepsmilk cheese and have recently set up a highly acclaimed cheese making school. Whangaripo Buffalo Cheese Company was equally fascinating. One normally associates buffalo milk with mozzarella but at present Phil Armstrong nicknamed Buffalo Phil and his lovely wife Annie make a fantastic creamy blue cheese called Marin Blue, a Pecorino type called St Malo, and produce thick unctuous yoghurt. We visited them on their lovely farm in Whangaripo valley and had a little feast of farmhouse cheese and cured sausage and fresh berries on a long table under a canopy in the field below their Summer bach.

They are just a few of the spirited innovative artisan producers we met who are creatively adding value to their produce. Many like Phil and Annie start by doing market research and selling their produce at the Famers Markets and to local chefs but soon are wooed by delis and in some cases supermarkets who are anxious to supply their customers with local food they increasingly demand.

Check out the following websites for more information and inspiration.

www.thedamsoncollection.co.nz

www.overthemoondairy.co.nz/index.php

www.gernotsgold.co.nz

www.oob.co.nz

http://standrewslimes.yolasite.com

Pavlova with Kiwi Fruit or Passion Fruit

Pavlova is the quintessential Kiwi dessert, smothered with cream and seasonal fruit; it’s still a huge favourite.

Serves 6 – 8

4 egg whites

4 ozs (110g/1 cup) castor sugar

2 teasp. cornflour

1 teasp. pure vanilla extract

2 teasp. white malt vinegar

Filling

½ pint (300ml) cream

4-5 kiwi fruit or the pulp of several ripe passion fruit

Garnish: fresh mint or lemon balm, sweet geranium

Preheat the oven to 150C\275F\regulo 1.

Line a baking tray with silicone paper (Bakewell). Check that your bowl and whisk are dry and free of grease. Whisk the egg whites until stiff, then add the castor sugar, little by little at a time. Fold in the cornflour, vanilla extract and vinegar.

Spread the meringue mixture onto a 9 inch (23cm) round or oval on the silicone paper. Bake in the centre of a preheated oven for 45 minutes. Then turn off the oven and leave for a further hourto dry out and crisp. Cool on a wire rack and peel off the paper. Remove from the oven and peel off the paper. Cool on a wire rack. Allow to get quite cold.

To Serve:

Put the pavlova onto a serving plate. Whip the cream softly, smother the pavlova with cream and decorate the top with peeled and sliced kiwi fruit o drizzle with passion fruit puree generously. Garnish with mint or lemon balm leaves

Pikelets

Easy and gorgeous – these little drop scones can be made in minutes, perfect for children to help with also.

　

Makes 30 approximately

　

2 free range eggs

100g (3½oz) caster sugar

275g (10oz) plain white flour

4 teaspoons baking powder

pinch of salt

60g (2 ¼ oz) melted butter

350ml (2fl oz) milk

Whisk the eggs and sugar together. Sieve dry ingredients together and fold gently into the base. Gradually whisk in the milk and finally the melted butter.

Heat the cast iron pan on a medium heat. Brush with a very little oil, put tablespoons of the batter well apart on the pan. Cook on one side until the bubbles burst, about 2 minutes. Flip over and continue to cook on the other side until golden. Eat warm with butter and caster sugar.

Passion Fruit Melting Moments

Makes 24

　

250g (9oz) butter

60g (2½ oz) icing sugar

210g (7 ½ oz) plain white flour

50g (2oz) cornflour

Filling

50 g (2oz) butter

60g (2½ oz) icing sugar

sieved pulp of one ripe passion fruit

Preheat the oven to 180°C/350°F/ Mark 4.

Cream, the butter and icing sugar and beat until fluffy. Stir in the sieved flours. The mixture should be stiff but crumbly. Pipe into rosettes or form little balls and flatten with a fork in a criss cross pattern. Bake for 12 – 15 minutes. Cool on a wire rack.

Meanwhile make the filling, cream the butter, add the icing sugar and the sieved pulp of ripe passion fruit, beat until light and creamy Sandwich the melting moments together with a little of the passion fruit filling. Dredge with icing sugar and serve.

　

Rocky Road

Scary stuff but addictive, so antipodean – another great favourite down under.

Makes 10 x 10cm (4 x 4 in)

450g (1lb) chocolate dark (62% cocoa solids)

450g (1lb) marshmallows

175g (6oz) toasted hazelnuts

175g (6oz) almonds, toasted

175g (6oz) jelly beans

50g (2oz) cherries

20.5cm (8in) square tin lined with silicone paper

Melt the chocolate gently in a Pyrex bowl tepid water, allow to cool but while still liquid stir in the marshmallow, nuts, jelly beans and cherries. Toss gently to coat in the chocolate. Pour evenly into a lined tin and allow to set. Cut into 5cm (2in)

Slices.

　

Rocky Road Ice Cream

Serves 20 approximately

450g (Ilb) Rocky Road

1.65 litres (2 ¼ pints) Vanilla Ice Cream

Cut rocky road into pieces, fold into ice cream, freeze and enjoy.

Jeff’s Redcurrant Tart

Serves 10 approximately

 

Jeff Bryant made this delicious tart especially for us with fresh red currants from his garden in Queenstown.

 

½ cup chopped walnuts (or hazelnuts/almonds) toasted

1 tbsp white or Demerara sugar

150g (5oz) butter

225g (8oz) sugar

2 large eggs

1 tsp vanilla

165g (6oz) self-raising flour

1 tsp baking powder

450g (1lb) of fruit (most other fruit could be substituted for the red currants)

Mix chopped, toasted nuts with first quantity of sugar and nonchalantly put aside.

Melt the butter in microwave bowl or in pot until just soft/liquid.　 Add the cup of sugar, the eggs and vanilla and beat recklessly until blended.　 Shake in the flour and bp and mix in with half the nut and sugar mix.

Spread the cake batter evenly in a buttered or sprayed 23-25 cm round (loose bottomed) cake tin.　 Mixture raises as it cooks.

Place fruit (peeled/stoned/hulled whatever) over the mixture, press some in lightly into the base first, and then sprinkle over the rest of the sugar and nut mix with indifference.

Bake at 180°C/350°F/Mark 4 for about 40 minutes until cake has risen around the fruit and browned lightly.

Serve warm (if as a dessert) with an air of insouciance and a dollop of cream!

　

Hottips

Farmers Markets

Mahon Point Farmers Market re-opens on Thursday 13^{th January and Midleton and Douglas Farmers Markets re-open on Saturday 15th January, 2011.www.cookingisfun.ie for more information. Bursaries available.www.organicrepublic.ie organicrepublic@gmail.com 0863623918.}

Learn how to grow vegetables, herbs, fruit and cut flowers.

Earn your living from your gardening skills – The Ballymaloe Cookery School inaugural Diploma in Practical Horticulture begins Monday 28th February 2011. See

In season… Marmalade oranges are in the shops now; organic Seville oranges are available from Catriona Daunt from Organic Republic who also deliver seasonal organic (certified) fruit and vegetable boxes in Cork city and suburbs. Order a box every two weeks or weekly, minimum box price €20.00

People just love to bake. The smell of a freshly baked cake or a tray of biscuits coming out of the oven always brings a smile and a feeling of comfort and warmth.

This week a few of my favourite things to bake and share or sell for that matter. Tiny scones are made in minutes; instead of traditional butter and jam or cream why not try a dab of orange or coffee butter cream. The sour cherry Amaretti are relatively new to our repertoire – a delicious recipe given to me by Yotam Ottolenghi and Sami Tamimi when they taught here last year. A tin of bakewell slices with toasted almonds on top can be served with a cup of coffee or as a pudding with a jug of custard or a bowl of softly whipped cream. Brownies are a perennial favourite, these have some banana added and are a terrific way to using up a couple of ripe bananas. Almond macaroons are gluten free. Chocolate chip cookies are also a brilliant standby, you can make a batch, and then shape it into rolls, some can be frozen and some just popped into the oven immediately. I have several recipes for what are called refrigerator cookies – they must have an American origin but they are terrific to know about and are the best standby to have – just slice a few rounds, pop them into the oven and by the time the tea is made they’ll be ready to enjoy.

In general, I find a conventional oven best for baking, a fan assisted oven is a more drying heat perfect for meringues but cakes and biscuits cooked in this type of oven seem to stale faster. But this is not a problem if they are delicious – they won’t be around long enough for it to matter.

 

Yotam’s Sour Cherry Amaretti

A totally delicious biscuit and with the added bonus of being gluten free.

Makes about 20

180g (6 1/4 ozs) ground almonds

120g (4 1/4 ozs) caster sugar

grated zest of 1 lemon

3 drops of natural almond extract

a pinch of salt

60g (2 1/2 ozs) dried sour cherries, roughly chopped

2 free-range egg whites

2 teaspoons honey

plenty of icing sugar for rolling

Preheat the oven to 170°C/325ºF/Gas Mark 3.

Put the ground almonds, sugar, lemon zest, almond extract and salt in a large bowl and rub with your fingertips to disperse the zest and essence evenly. Add the cherries and set aside.

Using a manual or electric whisk beat the egg whites and honey until they reach a soft meringue consistency. Gently fold the meringue into the almond mixture. At this stage you should have a soft, malleable paste.

With your hands, form the mixture into 20 irregular shapes. Roll them in plenty of icing sugar, and then arrange them on a baking tray lined with baking parchment. Place in the oven and bake for about 12 minutes. The biscuits should have taken on some colour but remain relatively pale and chewy in the centre. Leave to cool completely before indulging, or storing them in a sealed jar.

 

Rachel’s Bakewell Bars

Makes 12 Bars

75g (3oz) butter, softened

25g (1oz) caster sugar

1 egg yolk

175g (6oz) plain flour, plus extra for dusting

200g (7oz) raspberry jam (see recipe)

Topping

100g (3 1/2oz) butter, melted and cooled slightly

2 eggs, beaten

a few drops of almond essence

100g (3 1/2oz) ground almonds

100g (3 1/2oz) semolina

100g (3 1/2oz) caster sugar

flaked almonds for sprinkling

20 x 20cm (8 x 8 inch) square cake tin

Preheat the oven to 180°C/350°F/Gas Mark 4.

Butter the sides of the cake tin and line the base with greaseproof paper.

First, make the biscuit base.  Cream the butter in a large bowl or in an electric food mixer until soft.  Add the sugar and beat until the mixture is light and fluffy.  Add the egg yolk and mix well, then sift in the flour and mix together to form a dough.

Roll the pastry out on a lightly floured work surface to the right size to fit the base of the tin and then press into the prepared tin.  Spread the raspberry jam over the top then allow to chill in the fridge while you make the topping.

Place the melted butter in a bowl, add the beaten eggs and almond essence and mix well.  Stir in the ground almonds, semolina and caster sugar.

Take the tin out of the fridge and spread the almond dough over the jam, being careful not to mess up the jam too much.  (I usually place the almond dough in dots over the jam, then join it all together using the back of a spoon).

Sprinkle the top with the flaked almonds and bake in the oven for 25-30 minutes or until golden and set in the centre.  Allow to cool in the tin, then cut into fingers.

 

Banana Nut Brownies

 

Moist, rich and delicious.  Can be an irresistible nibble or a gorgeous pud with a blob of crème fraiche.

 

Makes 24 medium or 18 large squares

175g (6oz) butter, cut into dice

300g (10oz) light muscovado sugar (5ozs caster sugar and 5ozs soft brown sugar)

175g (6oz) dark chocolate, broken into pieces

100g (4oz) self-raising flour

1 teaspoon baking powder

100g (4oz) walnuts and hazelnuts chopped

3 organic eggs

2 ripe bananas, mashed

Preheat oven to 180ºC/350ºF/Gas Mark 4

20cm x 30cm (8 x 12 inch) swiss roll tin (deep tin)

Line the swiss roll tin with silicone paper.  Put the butter, sugar and chocolate in a saucepan on a gentle heat stirring until it’s smooth and melted.  Remove the pan from the heat, cool a little

Sieve the flour and the baking powder, add the chopped nuts.  Beat the eggs and add to the chocolate.  Add the mashed banana to the chocolate mixture.  Finally add the chocolate mixture into the flour, mix well and pour into the prepared tin.  Bake in the preheated oven for 30 minutes or until almost firm in the centre.  Cool in the tin, then turn out and cut into squares.

 

Chocolate Chip Cookies 

 

Makes about 36-40, depending on size

225g (8ozs) butter

200g (7oz) brown sugar

165g (6oz) castor sugar

2 eggs, preferably free range

1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

350g (12 oz) plain white flour

1 teaspoon baking powder

1 teaspoon baking soda

pinch of salt

150g (5oz) chocolate chips

100g (3 1/2 ozs) chopped nuts – hazelnuts

Preheat the oven to 180°C/350°F/gas mark 4.

Cream the butter add the sugars and beat until light and fluffy.  Add in the egg bit by bit, then the vanilla extract.

Mix the dry ingredients together and fold them in.  Lastly, add the chocolate chips and the chopped nuts.

Divide the mixture into 7g (1/4 oz) pieces, for teeny weeny pieces, or 25g (1oz) for medium sized or 50g (2oz) for American style cookies onto baking sheets. Remember to allow lots of room for spreading.  Bake for about 8-10 minutes, depending on size. Cool for a few minutes on the tray and then transfer to wire racks.  Store in an airtight container.

 

Coffee and Walnut Scones

 

In the US scones are rarely eaten with butter or cream so be generous with the icing. I came across this version in a tea-shop in Manhattan.

Makes 18-20 scones using a 7½cm (3inch) cutter, or twice as many if you use a smaller cutter. Without the icing they freeze brilliantly.

900 g (2lb) flour

pinch of salt

50g (2oz) castor sugar

170g (6oz) butter

3 heaped teaspoons baking powder

3 free range eggs

2-3 tablespoons coffee essence

425ml (15floz) approx. milk to mix

140g (5oz) walnuts, chopped coarsely

Coffee Icing

 

450g (1lb) icing sugar

scant 2 tablespoons Irel coffee essence

4 tablespoons boiling water approx.

First preheat the oven to 250C/475F/gas mark 9.

Sieve all the dry ingredients together. Rub in the butter and add the chopped walnuts.  Make a well in the centre. Whisk the eggs and coffee essence with the milk, add to the dry ingredients and mix to a soft dough. Turn out onto a floured board.  Knead lightly, just enough to shape into a round.  Roll out to about 2½cm (1inch) thick and stamp into scones.  Put onto a baking sheet. Bake in a hot oven for 10-15 minutes until golden brown on top. Cool on a wire rack.

Meanwhile make the coffee icing: Sieve the icing sugar into a bowl.  Add coffee essence and enough boiling water to make it the consistency of thick cream.

Spread each scone generously with coffee icing.  Allow to set.

Almond and Orange Florentines

 

One of my all time favourite restaurants in London is Ottolenghi. This recipe comes from Ottolenghi The Cookbook – published by Ebury Press.

Makes about 20

vegetable oil for brushing

2 organic egg whites

100g (3 1/2oz) icing sugar

260g (9 1/2oz) flaked almonds

grated zest of 1 orange

Preheat the oven to 150ºC/300ºF/Gas Mark 2.

Line a heavy baking tray with greaseproof paper and lightly brush with vegetable oil. Next to you have a small bowl with some cold water.

In a mixing bowl place together the whites, sugar, almonds and zest. Mix them gently until blended. Dip your hand in the bowl of water and pick up portions of the mix to make little mounds on the lined tray, well spaced apart.

Dip a fork in the water and flatten each biscuit very thinly. You want to make the biscuits as thin as possible without creating many gaps between the almond flakes.

Place the baking tray in the oven and bake approximately 12 minutes, until biscuits are golden brown. Check underneath one biscuit to make sure they are cooked through.

Allow to cool down well. Gently, using a palette knife, remove the biscuits from the baking sheet and into a sealed jar.

Refrigerator Cookies

 

Such a terrific recipe to have up your sleeve. The dough can also be flavoured with chopped walnuts and hazelnuts, orange or lemon zest, ground ginger or almonds.

 

Makes 50 approximately

225g (8oz) butter

225g (8oz) caster sugar

1 organic egg

1 tablespoon double cream

300g (10oz) plain flour

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon baking powder

pure vanilla extract (or lemon juice or ground ginger)

Castor sugar

Cream the butter and caster sugar in a bowl, then stir in the beaten egg, cream, flour, salt, baking powder and vanilla extract.  Shape the dough into a long roll or rolls, about 5cm (2 inches or smaller if you prefer) in diameter, and wrap in silicone paper or foil.  Chill in the fridge until the next day. 

Preheat the oven to 190ºC/375ºF/Gas Mark 5.

Cut the dough into thin rounds, no more than ¼ inch rounds. Arrange well apart on 1 baking tray.  Sprinkle them with castor sugar and cook for about 10 minutes in the preheated oven until they are a pale golden colour.  Transfer to a wire rack.  There is no need to bake the dough all at once; cut off what you need and put the rest back in the fridge until you fancy another bikki.

If you would like different flavours, divide the dough into three, and flavour each mixture differently. 

 

Ginger Nuts

 

Irish people have loved ginger ever since it started coming to these islands, and ginger nuts still account for a good chunk of Irish biscuit sales.  These homemade ones make an excellent substitute!  They’ll keep for ages in a tin if you can hide them away.

Makes 58

350g (12oz) white flour

150g (5oz) sugar

2 level teaspoons ginger, ground

2 level teaspoon bicarbonate of soda

175ml (6fl oz) golden syrup (290g/8 1/2oz in weight)

150g (5oz) butter

Preheat the oven to 180°C/350°F/gas mark 4.

Sieve the dry ingredients together into a bowl.  Meanwhile, warm the syrup gently.  Rub the butter into the dry ingredients.  Add the warm syrup and mix well.  Roll the mixture into walnut-sized balls and arrange well apart on a baking tray lined with silicone paper. Bake in your preheated oven for 15-20 minutes.  Leave on the tray for 2-3 minutes, then lift off with an egg slice and cool on a wire rack.

Snow Balls

 

Makes about 35

These delicious biscuits keep for ages in a tin, but they are so irresistible that they are seldom around for very long!

110g (4 oz) butter

2 tablespoons castor sugar

3 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

140g (5 oz) pecans

140g (5 ozs) plain white flour

icing sugar

Preheat the oven to 300F/150C/regulo 2.

Cream the butter, add the castor sugar and beat until soft and light. Grind the nuts finely in a food processor, mix with the butter and sugar, add the sieved flour and vanilla extract. Pinch off teaspoonfuls of the mixture and roll into balls. Place well apart on greased baking sheets. Bake for 30 minutes or until pale and golden. 

Remove from the oven and roll quickly in icing sugar. Handle the pecan puffs very carefully as they will be fragile, brittle and extremely hot!  Return to the oven and bake for 1 minute, to set the sugar. Cool on a wire rack. Store in an airtight tin. Dust each layer with icing sugar. Separate each layer with greaseproof paper.

Fool Proof Food

 

Almond Macaroons

 

Makes 12-16

These are so simple to make and can easily keep for 4-5 days in an airtight container.

4ozs (110g) desiccated coconut or ground almonds

3ozs (75g) caster sugar

1 egg white, lightly beaten

Preheat the oven to 180°C/350°F/gas 4.  Put the desiccated coconut or ground almonds, caster sugar and the egg white into a bowl and stir to combine.  It should be firm, but slightly sticky.  Roll small dessertspoonfuls of the mixture into balls and place on a baking tray lined with parchment paper.  Flatten slightly with a wet fork.  Cook for about 10 minutes or until pale golden.  Cool on a wire rack.

Note: These are also good with the grated zest of 1 lemon or orange mixed in with the coconut/almonds and sugar.

 

Hottips

 

The Soil Association Annual Conference – always an inspiration – will be held in Manchester Town Hall 9^th and 10^th February, 2011 – a two day public debate on Food and Farming. Tickets are available at www.soilassociation.org/shop

 

Irish Maol Cattle

Kerry beef farmer Patrick O’Sullivan from Ardfort who rears rare Irish Maol cattle has a number of animals for sale at present. This traditional Irish breed is a hardy dual purpose animal which produces both high quality beef and milk.  The name Moile is derived from the Gaelic language and relates to the distinctive dome or mound on top of the head. In the 20^th Century the breed declined in numbers as it was superseded by new more specialised breeds. The handsome hornless cattle can thrive and develop their unique flavour on rough terrain and deserve to be better known and appreciated. Interested chefs and butchers should contact Patrick on 0876472683 or contact the Irish Moile Society – 048-2588030 www.irishmoiledcattlesociety.com

The best chocolate biscuit recipe I have tasted for ages can be found on Rory O’Connell’s new food blog www.roryoconnell.blogspot.com

Nowadays more than ever before we need comfort food! So I’m going to devote my first column of the year to simple homely dishes guaranteed to warm and cheer the family when they traipse in tired and hungry from school or after a long days work. Hearty wholesome dishes that will fill the kitchen with the smell of delicious home cooking. The sort of food that everyone will want to tuck into around the kitchen table.

A few weekends ago, when I was down in Kerry at the Listowel Food Fair, I popped into see Mary Keane in JB Keane’s pub in Church Street.  Mary is a hugely entertaining woman with a lyrical Kerry lilt and a no nonsense approach to life – she loves her food and brought me into her own kitchen to teach me how to make proper Listowel Pies some time ago. When we were chatting away about food, Mary reminded us that ‘the kitchen table is a fierce important thing in every home’ – how right she is and how quickly many of us have abandoned it for the sofa in front of the telly. So perhaps this is the time for a New Year resolution to ban the ‘damn telly’ out of the kitchen or at least have an unbreakable rule that it doesn’t get switched on during meal times. Even if people are arguing it keeps the lines of communication open!

Better still, cook together – peeling and chopping really can be fun when everyone is chatting, squabbling and having a laugh. It helps to share the workload and best of all it passes on the cooking skills in an effortless easy way. While times were good many didn’t reckon it was worth bothering to learn how to cook but boy, have we had a wake up ‘call’. In changed circumstances we now realise the value of being able to scramble a few eggs or whip up a spontaneous pasta. So how about a delicious bubbly cauliflower cheese, spaghetti and meat balls, chicken and broccoli gratin or a strata, the latter is the savoury version of bread and butter pudding. My current favourite is Butternut Squash and Sage Strata from Alice’s Cookbook – published by Quadrille – by Alice Hart, a name to watch.  Alice serves it with garlic toast but on New Years day it would be good with a big green salad of Winter leaves with a new seasons olive oil dressing.

Follow it up with a steamed pudding, apple fritters, or an old fashioned rice pudding with a golden skin on top – perfect for a chilly January day.

 

Meatballs with Spaghetti and Fresh Tomato Sauce

 

If you’d prefer the, the minced beef mixture can be shaped into a burger, fried and tucked into a soft bun.

 

Serves 6

Meatballs

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

1 onion, peeled and finely chopped

1 garlic clove, peeled and crushed

900g (2lbs) freshly minced beef

2 tablespoons chopped fresh herbs, such as marjoram, or a mixture of parsley, chives and thyme leaves

1 organic egg, beaten

salt and freshly ground black pepper

 

Tomato Sauce

3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

225g (8oz) onion, peeled and sliced

1 garlic clove, peeled and crushed

900g (2lbs) ripe, peeled and chopped tomatoes or 2 x 400g (14ozs) tins chopped tomatoes (or use

salt, freshly ground black pepper and sugar

To serve

3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

150g (5ozs) Cheddar cheese or a mixture of Mozzarella and Parmesan, grated

450g (1lb) spaghetti

Garnish

flat parsley leaves

First make the meatballs, heat the olive oil in a heavy, stainless-steel saucepan over a gentle heat and add the chopped onions and garlic.  Cover and sweat on a gentle heat for 8-10 minutes until soft and slightly golden. Allow to cool.

Put the freshly minced beef into a bowl, add the cold sweated onion and garlic, add the herbs and the beaten egg.  Season the mixture to taste.  Fry a tiny bit to check the seasoning and adjust if necessary.  Divide the mixture into about 24 round meatballs. Cover and refrigerate.

Meanwhile, make the tomato sauce.  Heat the oil in a casserole or a stainless-steel saucepan.  Add the sliced onion and crushed garlic, toss until coated, cover and sweat over a gentle heat until soft.  Add the peeled and chopped tomatoes, mix and season with salt, freshly ground pepper and a pinch of sugar (tinned tomatoes take more sweetening).  Cover and simmer for 15 minutes, uncover and continue to cook for 15-20 minutes or until thick and unctuous. 

Heat a frying pan over a medium heat; add 3 tablespoons of extra virgin olive oil. Cook the meatballs for 8-10 minutes turning from time to time.  When they are cooked, transfer to an ovenproof serving dish. Add to the hot tomato sauce, turn gently to cover.  Pop into a preheated oven at 180°C/350°F/Gas Mark 4.  Meanwhile, cook the spaghetti in a large saucepan of boiling water.  Drain and turn into a hot serving dish.  Spoon the meatballs and tomato sauce over the top, sprinkle with grated Cheddar or a mixture of Mozzarella and Parmesan.  Sprinkle with lots of flat parsley leaves.

Cauliflower Cheese

This recipe is also perfect for Romanesco and if you want to make it more robust one could add a little diced chorizo or crispy bacon.

Serves 6-8

1 medium sized cauliflower with green leaves

salt

Mornay Sauce

600ml (1 pint) milk with a dash of cream

a slice of onion

3-4 slices of carrot

6 peppercorns

sprig of thyme or parsley

roux

salt and freshly ground pepper

150g (5oz) grated cheese, e.g. cheddar or a mixture of Gruyére, Parmesan and Cheddar

1/2 teaspoon mustard

Garnish

Chopped parsley

Preheat the oven to 230°C/450°F/gas mark 8.

Prepare and cook the cauliflower. Remove the outer leaves and wash both the cauliflower and the leaves well.  Put not more than 1 inch (2.5cm) water in a saucepan just large enough to take the cauliflower; add a little salt.  Chop the leaves into small pieces and cut the cauliflower in quarters or eighths; place the cauliflower on top of the green leaves in the saucepan, cover and simmer until cooked, 10-15 minutes approx. Test by piercing the stalk with a knife, there should be just a little resistance. 

Meanwhile make the Mornay Sauce. Put the cold milk into a saucepan with the onion, carrot, peppercorns and herb.  Bring to the boil, simmer for 3-4 minutes, and remove from the heat and leave to infuse for 10 minutes.

Strain out the vegetables, bring the milk back to the boil and thicken with roux to a light coating consistency. Add most of the grated cheese (reserving enough to sprinkle over the dish) and a little mustard. Season with salt and freshly ground pepper, taste and correct the seasoning if necessary. Spoon the sauce over the cauliflower and sprinkle with the remainder of the grated cheese. The dish may be prepared ahead to this point.

Put into the preheated oven or under the grill to brown. If the cauliflower cheese is allowed to get completely cold, it will take 20-25 minutes to reheat in a moderate oven. 180°C/350°F/gas mark 4.  Serve sprinkled with chopped parsley.

 

Gratin of Chicken and Broccoli

 

Serves 4-6

This is one of those dishes that can be mouth-watering or a complete disaster. Its success depends on the broccoli being carefully cooked so that it is bright green and just tender.

1 x 1.5kg (3lbs 5ozs) chicken*, free range if possible

2 carrots, sliced

2 onions, sliced

sprig each of thyme and tarragon

a few peppercorns

300ml (1/2 pint) homemade chicken stock

450g (1lb) broccoli florets

110g (4ozs) mushrooms, sliced

knob of butter

175ml (6fl ozs) milk

150ml (1/4 pint) cream

2 teaspoons tarragon or annual marjoram

roux

25g (1oz) buttered crumbs (see recipe)

1-2oz (25-50g) grated mature cheddar cheese

lasagne dish (25.5 x 20.5cm) 10 x 8 inch

Put the chicken into a saucepan or casserole with the onions and carrots, add a sprig of thyme, tarragon and a few peppercorns. Pour in the stock, bring to the boil, cover and simmer for 1-1/4 hours or until the chicken is tender.

Meanwhile cook the broccoli florets in boiling salted water until al dente (see recipe). Drain and refresh under cold water, keep aside. Sauté the mushrooms in the butter on a hot pan season with salt and freshly ground pepper and keep aside also.

When the chicken is cooked remove the meat from one side and carve into bite-sized pieces. Keep the rest for another recipe,* or double the rest of the ingredients.

Strain and degrease the cooking liquid, add the cream and milk, bring to the boil, add the tarragon or annual marjoram, simmer for a few minutes, thicken to a light coating consistency with roux, then add the chicken to the sauce. Season with salt and freshly ground pepper.

Butter an ovenproof lasagne dish, put a layer of broccoli on the base, scatter the mushrooms on top and cover with the creamy chicken mixture.

Mix the Buttered Crumbs with the grated cheese and sprinkle over the surface. Reheat in a moderate oven 180°C/350°F/gas mark 4 for 15-20 minutes and flash under the grill until the top is crunchy and golden. Serve immediately.

Buttered Crumbs

2 ozs (50g) butter

4 ozs (110g) soft white breadcrumbs

Melt the butter in a pan and stir in the breadcrumbs. Remove from the heat immediately and allow to cool.

Roux

 

4 ozs (110 g) butter

4 ozs (110 g) flour

Melt the butter and cook the flour in it for 2 minutes on a low heat, stirring occasionally.  Use as required.  Roux can be stored in a cool place and used as required or it can be made up on the spot if preferred.  It will keep at least a fortnight in a refrigerator.

 

 

Treacle Pudding

The name is a bit misleading because we use golden syrup instead of treacle. It’s sweet and sticky and lovely.

Serves 4–6

7g (1⁄4oz) soft butter

2 tablespoons golden syrup

juice of 1⁄2 lemon (about  2 tablespoons)

2 tablespoons white breadcrumbs

110g (4oz) butter

110g (4oz) golden caster sugar

2 organic eggs

150g (5oz) self-raising flour

grated zest of 1 organic lemon

2 tablespoons milk

For the Sauce

3 tablespoons golden syrup

3 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice

600ml (1 pint) pudding bowl

Brush the bottom of the bowl with soft butter. Mix the syrup with the lemon juice and breadcrumbs. Spoon around the base of the bowl. Cream the butter, add the caster sugar and beat until light and fluffy. Add the eggs, one at a time, beating well between each addition. Stir in the flour and grated lemon zest, add enough milk to make a softish mixture. Spoon into the bowl. Cover and steam for 11⁄4 hours. After steaming, carefully remove from the pan and let sit for 5 minutes. Remove paper. Carefully turn it upside down onto a warm serving dish (the syrup will be scalding hot). Serve with lightly whipped cream or Homemade Custard

To steam a pudding

Choose a deep saucepan with a tight-fitting lid. Fill about halfway with water and bring to the boil. Lower the pudding into the saucepan. Cover and boil gently for required time. Keep checking the water level regularly – it needs to remain at least halfway up the bowl.

To cover a pudding bowl

Take two layers of silicone or greaseproof paper or tin foil and pleat in the centre to allow for expansion. Lay flat on top of the bowl – there should be enough to come down over the sides. Secure the ledge with cotton string. Make a handle for ease of lifting.

 

Apple Fritters

Funny how one sometimes forgets a recipe; we hadn’t had these for ages, but I remembered them recently and they taste just as good as ever. As children we particularly loved fritters because they used to fry into funny shapes, which caused great hilarity. These can also be shallow-fried in a pan. You can add a teaspoon of cinnamon to the sugar to toss the apples in for extra flavour. Serves 6–8

110g (4oz) plain white flour

pinch of salt

1 organic egg

150ml (5fl oz) milk

good-quality vegetable oil, for frying

450g (1lb) cooking apples (about 4), Bramley’s Seedling or Grenadier

225g (4oz) caster sugar

Sieve the flour and salt into a bowl. Make a well in the centre and drop in the egg. Use a whisk to bring in the flour gradually from the edges, slowly adding in the milk at the same time. Leave the batter in a cool place for about 1 hour.

Heat the oil in a deep-fryer to 180°C (350°F). Peel and core the apples. Cut into rings, no thicker than 1cm (1⁄4in). Dip the rings into the batter and lift out with a skewer, allowing the surplus batter to drain off, then drop into hot fat, a few at a time. Fry until golden brown, drain well on kitchen paper. Toss each fritter in caster sugar. Serve immediately on hot plates with softly whipped cream.

 

 

Old Fashioned Rice Pudding

A creamy rice pudding is one of the greatest treats on a cold winter’s day. You need to use short-grain rice, which plumps up as it cooks. This is definitely a forgotten pudding and it’s unbelievable the reaction we get to it every time we make it at the Cookery School. It’s always the absolute favourite pudding at my evening courses. Serves 6–8

100g (31⁄2oz) pearl rice (short-grain rice)

50g (2oz) sugar

small knob of butter

1. 2 litres (2 pints) milk

1 x 1. 2 litre (2 pint) capacity pie dish

Preheat the oven to 180ºC/350ºF/gas mark 4.

Put the rice, sugar and butter into a pie dish. Bring the milk to the boil and pour over. Bake for 1–1 1⁄2 hours. The skin should be golden, the rice underneath should be cooked through and have soaked up the milk, but still be soft and creamy. Time it so that it’s ready just in time for pudding. If it has to wait in the oven for ages it will be dry and dull and you’ll wonder why you bothered.

Three good things to serve with rice pudding:

•           Softly whipped cream and soft brown sugar

•           Compote of apricots and cardamom

•           Compote of sweet apples and rose geranium

 

 

Hottips

 

Art student Eileen Hutton studied at the Burren School of Art. The nest she built at Ballymaloe Cookery School from hazel twigs and moss were responsibly removed from Slieve Carron Nature Reserve as part of the Burren Conservation Volunteers’ effort. The nest will be on public view from 9am to 6pm in the conservatory at Ballymaloe Cookery School until the end of January. www.eileenhutton.com

The Cook’s Book of Ingredients published by Penguin is the ultimate visual reference guide to ingredients from around the world, enabling cooks to learn how to choose top-quality produce, and get great results in the kitchen. The book features over 250 classic recipes from basil pesto to fruity jams, helping readers to get the most out of each ingredient, and create dishes they will enjoy again and again.

New Seasons Olive Oil – the first of the new seasons extra virgin olive oil is available in the Ballymaloe Cookery School Shop – a perfect present for a special foodie friend. 021 4646785.