This year I’ll be in Ireland instead of New York for St Patricks Day, 17th March and I’m all set to celebrate, right here in Shanagarry. Remember St Patrick banished the snakes from Ireland so we’ll have our annual snake hunt around the garden!
We’ve got students from all over the world here at present and they too are all determined to enter into the spirit. They’re planning to rummage around in their wardrobes and cases to bedeck themselves in forty shades of green.
To celebrate Lá Fhéile Padraig, both Ballymaloe House and Ballymaloe Cookery School will be illuminated in green as they have been for the past four years to participate in Tourism Irelands Global Greening Project, a brilliant initiative where iconic buildings around the world are lit up in green to focus attention on Ireland on St Patricks day, which in turn promotes tourism and raises awareness of Ireland and all things Irish.
This year the Liffey will be dyed green to celebrate our National day. Take the family along, the St Patrick’s Day parades get more exciting and exotic every year.
Then have a feast of our traditional Irish dishes. Last year, it was Parsley sauce with Bacon and Cabbage but this time I’m looking forward to a big pot of Irish Stew. It’s a wonderfully comforting meal in a pot, beloved by all the family. I often serve it when friends come round for supper and they just love to tuck into a big bowl of stew and have a nostalgic trip down memory lane.
Songs have been sung and poems have been written about champ and colcannon…
In the US its corned beef and cabbage for everyone and soda bread with raisins and caraway seeds, really an emigrants version but so good.
We’d hoped to have the first rhubarb tart of the year on St Patrick’s Day but I was over optimistic, our rhubarb is barely above the ground and it feels like cheating to use the pale pink forced rhubarb from the Yorkshire triangle in the UK where one can literally hear the rhubarb leaves unfurling in the forcing tunnels. Instead, we’ll make our special St Patricks Day cake, decorated with orange kumquats and tart green wood sorrel leaves (oxalis) which resemble shamrock but are edible. It’s a super cake, really fast to make and fun to share with friends on St Patricks Day. Alternatively how about a bowl of fluffy carrageen moss pudding with softly whipped cream and soft brown sugar – check out last week’s examiner column for the recipe.
Irish Colcannon Soup
Colcannon is one of Irelands best loved traditional potato dishes. Fluffy mashed potato flecked with cooked cabbage or kale. This soup uses identical ingredients to make a delicious soup
50g (2oz) butter
425g (15oz) peeled diced potatoes
110g (4oz) diced onions
salt and freshly ground pepper
1.2 litre (2 pints) homemade chicken stock or vegetable stock
450g (1lb) Savoy cabbage
25g (1oz) butter
salt and freshly ground pepper
110ml (4 fl oz) creamy milk
Melt the butter in a heavy-bottomed saucepan. When it foams, add the potatoes and onions and toss them in the butter until well coated. Season with salt and freshly ground pepper. Cover and sweat on a gentle heat for 6-10 minutes. Add the stock, increase the heat, and cook until the vegetables are soft but not coloured.
Meanwhile cook the cabbage
Remove the tough outer leaves from the cabbage. Divide into four, cut out the stalks and then cut into fine shreds across the grain. Put 2-3 tablespoons of water into a wide saucepan with the butter and a pinch of salt. Bring to the boil, add the cabbage and toss constantly over a high heat, then cover for a few minutes. Toss again and add some more salt, freshly ground pepper and a knob of butter.
Purée in a blender or food processor, add the cabbage to the soup. Taste and adjust seasoning. Thin with creamy milk to the required consistency.
Note: Cabbage may be pureed with the soup if you would rather a smoother texture.
Ballymaloe Irish Stew
Serves 6- 8
Another traditional classic, a one-pot dish – the recipe varies from region to region – in Cork, carrots are a quintessential addition, not so in parts of Ulster. Pearl barley is a favourite addition, originally added to bulk up the stew.
2 1/2 – 3lbs (1.1 – 1.35kg) lamb chops (gigot from the shoulder of lamb) not less than 1 inch (2.5cm) thick
8 medium or 12 baby carrots
8 medium or 12 baby onions
8 -12 potatoes, or more if you like
salt and freshly ground pepper
1 1/2-1 3/4 pints stock (lamb stock if possible) or water
1 sprig of thyme
1 tablespoon roux, optional (see recipe)
2 tablespoon coarsely snipped parsley
1 tablespoon freshly chopped chives
Preheat the oven to 180C/350F/Gas Mark 4.
Cut the chops in half and trim off some of the excess fat. Set aside. Render the lamb fat on a gentle heat in a heavy pan (discard the rendered down pieces).
Peel the onions and scrape or thinly peel the carrots (if they are young you may want to leave some of the green stalk on the onion and carrot). Cut the carrots into large chunks, or if they are small leave whole. If the onions are large, cut them into quarters through the root, when small they are best left whole.
Toss the meat in the hot fat on the pan until it is slightly brown. Transfer the meat into a casserole, then quickly toss the onions and carrots in the fat. Build the meat, carrots and onions up in layers in the casserole, carefully season each layer with freshly ground pepper and salt. Degrease the pan with lamb stock, bring to the boil and pour into the casserole. Peel the potatoes and lay them on top of the casserole, so they will steam while the stew cooks. Season the potatoes. Add a sprig of thyme, bring to the boil on top of the stove, cover with a butter wrapper or paper lid and the lid of the saucepan. Transfer to a moderate oven or allow to simmer on top of the stove until the stew is cooked, 1- 1 1/2 hours approx, depending on whether the stew is being made with lamb or hogget.
When the stew is cooked, pour off the cooking liquid, de-grease and reheat in another saucepan. Thicken slightly by whisking in a little roux. Check seasoning, then add chopped parsley and chives. Pour over the meat and vegetables. Bring the stew back up to boiling point and serve from the pot or in a large pottery dish sprinkled with herbs.
4oz (110g) butter
4oz (110g) flour
Melt the butter and cook the flour in it for 2 minutes on a low heat, stirring occasionally. Use as required. Roux can be stored in a cool place and used as required or it can be made up on the spot if preferred. It will keep at least a fortnight in a refrigerator.
Spotted Dog with Caraway Seeds
Caraway seeds and sultanas were added to soda bread in Ireland long ago, but the tradition went by the wayside. Not so in America, where soda bread often has caraway seeds and sultanas in it. Usually when I go to the US I take Irish recipes there, but I was delighted to bring this one back to Ireland! Simply add 2 teaspoons of caraway seeds to the Spotted Dog recipe and proceed as above.
Makes 1 loaf
450g (1lb) plain white flour
1–2 tablespoons sugar
1 level teaspoon salt
1 level teaspoon bread soda (bicarbonate of soda), sieved
2 teaspoons of caraway seeds
75–110g (3–4oz) sultanas, raisins or currants
300ml (10fl oz) sour milk or buttermilk
1 egg, free-range if possible (optional – you may not need all the milk if you use the egg)
Preheat your oven to 230ºC/450ºF/Gas Mark 8.
Sieve the dry ingredients into a bowl, add the caraway seeds and dried fruit, mix well. Make a well in the centre and pour most of the milk in at once with the egg. Using one hand, mix in the flour from the sides of the bowl, adding more milk if necessary. The dough should be softish, not too wet and sticky. When it all comes together, turn it out on to a floured board and knead it lightly for a few seconds, just enough to tidy it up. Pat the dough into a round about 4cm (1 1/2 inch) deep and cut a deep cross on it. Bake for 15 minutes, then turn down the oven to 200ºC/400ºF/Gas Mark 6 and continue to cook for approximately 30 minutes. If you are in doubt, tap the bottom: if it is cooked, it will sound hollow.
Serve freshly baked, cut into thick slices and generously slathered with butter. Simply delicious!
St Patrick’s Day Cake
This cake is very special, it’s super easy to make and is decorated with a lemony icing, kumquats and wood sorrel leaves – green, white and gold, to celebrate our national day……!
175g (6oz) soft butter
150g (5oz) castor sugar
3 eggs, preferably free range
175g (6oz) self-raising flour
Lemon Glacé Icing
110g (4oz) icing sugar
finely grated rind of 1/2 lemon
1-2 tablespoons) freshly squeezed lemon juice
8 pieces of kumquat compote – drained
8 wood sorrel leaves
1 x 20.5cm (8 inch) sandwich tin, buttered and floured. Line the base of the tin with parchment paper.
Preheat the oven to 180°C/350°F/Gas Mark 4.
Put the soft butter, castor sugar, eggs and self-raising flour into the bowl of a food processor. Whizz for a few seconds to amalgamate and turn into the prepared tin – make a dip in the centre so it rises evenly. Bake in the preheated oven for 25-30 minutes approx. or until golden brown and well risen.
Cool in the tin for a few minutes, remove and cool on a wire rack.
Make the Lemon Glacé Icing.
Sieve the icing sugar into a bowl. Add the lemon rind and enough lemon juice to make a softish icing.
Once the cake is cool, pour the icing over the cake and spread gently over the sides with a palette knife.
Decorate with the candied kumquats and wood sorrel leaves.
Serve on a pretty plate.