Every now and then I go on a little skite to recharge the batteries, find some new ingredients, get some exciting new ideas and meet the makers.
Ostensibly, this recent trip to the UK was to visit several of our grandchildren in Bristol and Wales so they too joined us on the voyage of discovery.
In Cardiff we found a restaurant called Thomas by Tom Simmons. Among many good things we enjoyed, were mushroom croquettes with chive mayo and Parmesan and a memorable truffled mac and cheese, who knew that mac and cheese could taste so mind blowing.
In Bristol, Marmo on Baldwin St. yielded many memorable tastes of deliciously simple food made with exquisite ingredients. I particularly remember an oozing Burrata covered with freshly grated bottarga (dried mullet roe) and drizzle of extra virgin olive oil.
The bread and homemade cultured butter came from Field bakery in Bridgwater. So good that we later made a pilgrimage to the source where the heritage wheat for the bread is grown by inspirational farmer and citizen scientist, Fred Pryce.
Still at hyper seasonal Marmo with chef owner Cosmo Sterck and his wife Lily. We loved the plate of six plump anchovies in a pool of extra virgin olive oil sprinkled with marjoram. Another highlight was fricco (a little rectangle of yeast dough, deep fried into a puffy pillow) with wafer thin slices of pancetta – they were just the starters. The dry aged pork chop with silky mashed potato, girolles, sweetcorn and tarragon were also memorable and oh, the chocolate mousse with a blanket of softly whipped jersey cream with a dusting of cocoa powder on top – I won’t forget the flavour and texture of that in a while.
Little French in the Westbury Park area is another gem with a really interesting natural wine list and a wonderful choice of edgy French classics. Don’t miss the queen scallops served simply in the shell with various sauces – really easy and delicious.
This is hopeless. I’m halfway through the article and have only told you about two restaurants of the 8 or 10 we enjoyed over five days.
On another morning we were up at the crack of dawn to try to beat the queues at Farro. Maybe Bristol’s best bakery in a town that has many brilliant artisan bakeries, many of whom mill their own flour from ancient and heritage landrace wheat varieties for their natural sourdough loaves. Quite unlike the faux sourdough on offer in so many supermarkets now which is not OK. Always read the label carefully – real sourdough has just four ingredients – flour, water, salt and natural levain.
If you get to Farro, there are a whole range of temptations but don’t miss the kouign-amann and a West Country Queen and then there’s the tender madeleines with a dab of icing on top and the spice bun!
We also love Hart’s Bakery under the arches by the railway station and you should also check out The Bristol loaf and Little Pantry.
There are many wine bars selling an exceptional choice of natural wines (no hangover!). Look out for Limeburn Hill wines made by Robin and his wife Georgina on their biodynamic vineyard close to Chew Magna. Georgina shared the recipe for the delicious Apple and almond tart that we enjoyed at her kitchen table.
If you’re in Bristol on a Sunday morning, wander through The Tobacco Factory Market and Wapping Wharf and swing by Five Acre Farm Shop, then make sure you have lunch at Sonny’s Store on Birch Road. We loved the Cockles Aqua Pazza, and I’ll be back for more of that salted focaccia ice cream with extra-virgin olive oil.
Roast Scallops with Butter and Thyme Leaves
Inspired by the scallops at Little French.
A sublime way to cook beautiful fresh scallops, the thyme leaves, lemon and butter enhance the sweetness of the shellfish deliciously.
Serves 4 as a starter, 2 as a main course
8 large scallops on the rounded half shell
2 tsp thyme leaves, finely chopped
1 tsp finely grated lemon zest from an organic lemon
25g butter
3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
flaky sea salt and freshly ground pepper
To Serve
lemon wedges
Preheat the oven to 250°C/Gas Mark 10.
If the scallops are in the shell, open and remove all the contents. Remove the fringe, coral and muscle from the fish. Discard the fringe and muscle. Trip the coral neatly. Place the scallop back in the deep shell along with the corals.
Mix the chopped thyme leaves, freshly grated lemon zest, soft butter and extra virgin olive oil together in a bowl. Spoon a teaspoon onto each scallop. Season with a little salt and freshly ground pepper. Bake in the very hot oven until the butter is sizzling and the scallops barely cooked, 4-5 minutes approx.
Serve immediately with a squeeze of
lemon juice.
River Cottage Apple and Almond Cake
Try this delicious cake which I enjoyed recently at Limeburn Hill Vineyard, just outside Bristol. Georgina gave full credit to River Cottage.
Serves 8
150g butter
125g caster sugar
2 eggs
75g self-raising flour
75g ground almonds
For the apples
3 eating apples
25g butter
25g granulated sugar
¼ tsp ground cinnamon (optional)
20cm round springform cake tin.
Preheat the oven to 170ºC.
Line the base and sides of the tin.
Peel and core the apples, cut them into quarters and then slice each
quarter into about 3 pieces.
Heat the butter and sugar in a frying pan, then gently fry the apples, stirring
occasionally until they get an even colour. When they are nearly tender and
starting to caramelise, add the cinnamon (if using) and take off the heat.
Cream the butter and sugar together until light and fluffy, add the eggs, then
the flour followed by the ground almonds. Scrape into the tin, smooth over,
arrange the apples and then spoon over any juices from the frying pan on top.
Bake for 40-45 minutes (until a skewer comes out clean). Leave for 20 mins
before unclipping the tin and leaving to cool. Best served warm with cream.
Sonny Stores Salted Focaccia Ice Cream with Extra Virgin Olive Oil
Special thanks to Pegs for sharing.
A little vanilla extract and chopped rosemary is also delicious added to the ice cream base enhances the ice cream even further. A brilliant, inspired way to use up stale focaccia.
Serves 6-8
½ litre milk
1 ½ litres cream
¼ tsp vanilla extract or 2 teaspoons freshly chopped rosemary (optional)
7-8 egg yolks, depending on size
200g caster sugar
150g – 200g stale focaccia
extra virgin olive oil
Maldon sea salt
Preheat the oven to 180°C/Gas Mark 4.
Tear the focaccia into thumb sized pieces, pop onto a baking tray, drizzle with extra virgin olive oil and sprinkle generously with caster sugar. Toss well turning occasionally and bake for 20-25 minutes or until crispy and golden.
Cool a little.
Heat the milk and cream in a heavy bottom saucepan until it comes to the shivery stage, don’t boil.
Meanwhile, whisk the egg yolks, vanilla extract and sugar together until light and pale. Gradually add the hot liquid, whisking all the time. Return to the saucepan and cook over a medium heat until it thickens slightly, barely coating the back of a spoon (do not allow to boil or the mixture will curdle).
Pour out onto a low sided dish, a stainless-steel gastro pan if available.
Pour the ice cream mixture over the focaccia on the baking tray, cover and leave overnight.
Next day, scoop out the focaccia and blend (not too fine). Mix with the ice cream. Cover and freeze.
To Serve
Put one or two scoops of ice cream into a bowl or plate, drizzle with a little really good extra virgin olive oil and sprinkle with a few flakes of sea salt and serve immediately.