The
atmosphere was palpable and optimistic at the seventh BioFarm Organic Conference
organised recently by NOTS.
This is the annual get-together of organic, biodynamic, chemical free and an
increasing number of regenerative farmers who are transitioning to more
sustainable production methods.
This year the numbers increase by almost 50% reflecting the growing acreage of
land in Ireland being farmed on organic principles to 5% in 2024 from a
mere 2% in 2022.
Organic production is increasing worldwide with Australia, India and Argentina
leading the way.
In Europe, Liechtenstein has the highest organic area at 43% followed by
Austria, the leading EU country at 27.5%.
Sales of organic food continue to rise exponentially particularly in the US and
Australia.
Here in Ireland, despite the cost of living crisis, an increasing number of
people are connecting the food they eat to the health of the family.
There is a growing realisation that it’s more cost-effective to invest in
chemical free foods rather than expensive and not always effective supplements.
Once again I repeat our food should and can indeed be our medicine….
There’s also a significant increase in the number of families who have started
to grow some of their own food at home, in veggie patches, allotments and even
on window sills and balconies. This not only enhances our lives, reminds us of
what food should taste like but it excites the kids and teaches them some
really important life skills.
It also shows them (and us) how much work actually goes into producing
nourishing wholesome food, it doesn’t just appear on the supermarket shelf.
John Hogan, an agronomist and horticultural consultant with 40 years’
experience spelled out the challenges but also the growing market for Irish
organic food and opportunity for export substitution.
Most would have a gut feeling (as do I) that organic, chemical-free food, grown
in rich fertile soil has got to be altogether better for our wellbeing but why,
one might ask, in the midst of this cost of living crisis, would the consumer
reckon that it’s worth the extra money unless there is scientific evidence to
prove it. We urgently need targeted stats, anecdotal evidence is not enough.
Poor diets
are also linked to 20% of deaths worldwide, eleven billion annually and cost
health authorities countless millions globally.
Engaging and inspirational speaker Neil Fuller, a soil scientist and
climate-smart farming expert, talked about how we could make ‘food the weapon’
in climate change and the real cost of cheap food on people’s health. Despite
the perception, farming is a significant part of the solution to climate change.
In the words of Patrick Holden of the Sustainable Food Trust, ‘if we paid
farmers to be carbon stewards, then farming could move from being part of the
problem to part of the solution’.
There was much to learn about heritage wheat trials, increased demand for
organic oats, and homeopathy for animals. BioFarm encourages and supports
farmers and growers to consider agroforestry, silvopasture (a way
of combining trees, livestock, and forage crops on the same
land for multiple benefits), the importance of dung beetles, all play their
part in enriching fertile soil and producing healthy food to nourish rather
than damage our health which is what farming should be all about in the end.
We stayed at Fitzgerald Woodlands hotel in Adare, the conference venue. A
wonderfully convivial, family run hotel with exceptionally kind and helpful
staff.
Chef Mark Darcy shared several of the recipes that the conference attendees
enjoyed.
Woodlands Organic chicken with Smoky Bacon, Cabbage and Mushrooms with Pilaf Rice
This recipe is inspired by a dish we ate at the Woodlands Hotel in Adare. Brown meat is my personal favourite, so we made it with chicken thighs and drumsticks, a delicious comforting winter supper.
Serves 10-12
2kg organic chicken (I used 6 whole legs of Rings organic chickens from Co. Kilkenny)
salt and freshly ground pepper
1 large carrot, sliced
1 large onion, sliced
5 peppercorns
a bouquet garni made up of a sprig of thyme, parsley stalks, a tiny bay leaf, a stick of celery
450-600ml water or a mixture of water and white wine (1 glass) or homemade light chicken stock
1 York or Savoy cabbage, cored and shredded (450g prepared)
25g butter or more if you like
salt and freshly ground black pepper
250-300ml light cream
75g roux approx. (made with equal quantities of flour and butter, cooked for 2 minutes)
salt
1 large onion, diced
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
500g mushrooms, quartered
salt and freshly ground black pepper
knob of butter and extra virgin olive oil
175g smoky streaky bacon, diced
1 tsp of thyme leaves, rosemary or tarragon chopped
salt and freshly ground black pepper
chopped parsley or chervil, to garnish
For the pilaf rice
25g salted butter
2 tbsp finely chopped onion or shallot
400g long-grain rice (preferably basmati)
salt and freshly ground black pepper
975ml homemade chicken stock
2 tbsp freshly chopped herbs, such as parsley, thyme or chives (optional)
Dry brine the chicken overnight if time allows (just sprinkle the surface lightly with salt). Otherwise, before cooking, season the chicken with salt and freshly ground pepper. Put into a heavy casserole with the carrot, onion, peppercorns and a bouquet garni. Pour in the chicken stock and dry white wine (3/4 stock to 1/4 wine). (use water if no stock is available but less flavourful). Cover and bring to the boil and simmer either on the hob or cook in the oven at 180°C/Gas Mark 4 for 40-45 minutes. When the bird is cooked, remove from the casserole. The meat should be really tender.
Meanwhile, make the pilaf rice. Melt the butter in a casserole, add the onion and sweat for 2-3 minutes. Add the rice and toss for a minute or two, just long enough for the grains to change colour. Season with salt and freshly ground pepper, add the chicken stock, cover and bring to the boil. Reduce the heat to a minimum and then simmer on the hob or cook in the oven at 160°C/Gas Mark 3 for about 10 minutes. By then the rice should be just cooked and all the water absorbed. Just before serving, stir in the fresh herbs if using.
Strain and de-grease the chicken cooking liquid (we had 1 litre). Return to the casserole. Discard the vegetables: they have already given their flavour to the cooking liquid. Reduce the liquid in a wide, uncovered casserole for 5–10 minutes until the flavour is more concentrated.
Remove the tough outer leaves and divide the cabbage into four. Cut out the stalks and then cut each section into fine shreds across the grain. Put 2 or 3 tablespoons of water into a wide saucepan with the butter and a pinch of salt. Bring to the boil, add the cabbage and toss constantly over a high heat, then cover for a few minutes (3-4 minutes). Toss again, taste and if necessary, add some more salt and freshly ground pepper to enhance the flavour.
Add the cream or creamy milk to the reduced liquid, return to the boil; thicken to a light coating consistency by whisking in some roux. Taste and add salt to taste.
Divide the chicken into joints, drumsticks and thighs (chunky pieces of white meat if using). Add to the sauce, heat through and bubble (the dish may be prepared ahead to this point).
Sweat the chopped onion and garlic in a little butter until soft but not coloured and keep aside. Sauté the quartered mushrooms in a little butter, in a hot frying pan, in batches if necessary. Season each batch with salt, freshly ground pepper and add to the onions.
Melt the butter in a sauté pan, add a little extra virgin olive oil, and add the bacon lardons. Cook tossing for 3-4 minutes on a medium heat. Add the sautéed onions and mushrooms and the chopped thyme leaves, rosemary or tarragon.
Toss until fully cooked through. Add to the sauce with the buttered cabbage. Fold gently through. Taste and correct the seasoning.
Turn into a serving dish and scatter with lots of chopped parsley or chervil. Serve with pilaf rice.
Woodlands Shortbread Cookies
Super easy to make, keep a roll in your fridge so you can surprise unexpected guests with freshly baked cookies over Christmas.
Makes 25-30 approx. depending on thickness
180g butter
90g caster sugar
270g flour
Cream the butter and sugar in a mixing bowl, add the sieved flour and continue to mix to a firm dough. Roll the mixture into a log. Cover in parchment paper and twist the ends like a Christmas cracker. Chill in the fridge for a few hours, preferably overnight.
Preheat the oven to 180°C/Gas Mark 4.
Remove the baking paper from the chilled dough and cut into 1cm thick cookies. Bake on a parchment lined baking tray, cook in the preheated oven for 12-15 minutes. Cool on a wire rack and dredge lightly with icing sugar.
Christmas Nougat
This is my take on Italian torrone, which is firmer in texture than the softer French version.
Nougat will keep in an airtight container for up to 3 weeks if you can resist it! You can add more or less nuts as you like.
Makes 64 x 2.5cm squares
350g sugar
225g liquid glucose
200g honey
125g hazelnuts
125g skinned almonds
2 egg whites, preferably free-range and organic
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
100g shelled, peeled pistachios
75g dried sour cherries
50g dry candied lemon or orange peel or chopped apricots
grated rind of 1 lemon
good pinch of salt
Line the base of a 21cm square tin with confectioner’s rice paper.
Preheat the oven to 180°C/Gas Mark 4
Put the hazelnuts on a baking sheet and toast in the oven for 15-20 minutes, until the skins start to flake away. Rub off the skins with a cloth and leave them whole. Roast the skinned almonds for 10-12 minutes. Set aside.
Put the sugar, liquid glucose and honey into a wide sauté pan. Stir over a low heat until the sugar dissolves. Increase the heat and cook until the syrup reaches 130ºC (hard crack stage) on a sugar thermometer.
Whisk the egg whites in a spotlessly clean, dry bowl to a firm peak. Slowly pour in half the syrup and whisk to combine preferably in a food mixer. Add the vanilla extract and continue to whisk at a low speed.
Meanwhile, put the remaining syrup back on the heat and cook until the mixture reaches 150ºC on a sugar thermometer. Slowly pour onto the egg white mixture and whisk for about 5 minutes, until it’s thick and glossy. Fold in the pistachio nuts, toasted almonds, hazelnuts, dried cherries, candied peel, lemon rind and a pinch of salt.
Pour the nougat mixture into the prepared tin. Smooth the top with the back of a spoon or a spatula. Cover with a sheet of rice paper and press down gently. Allow to cool, then cut into 2.5cm square pieces with a sharp knife and serve. Store in an airtight tin.
