ArchiveAugust 2025

Yesterday evening, just as I was about to tuck into supper, I had a moment …Suddenly I thought of the incredible amount of work that actually went into growing and rearing the produce on my plate, not to mention cooking it.
Silently, I gave thanks for my nephew Darren who had put so much work into rearing the free range heritage pigs on his farm at Ballymaloe House.
For our local butcher, Frank Murphy and his son Brian in Midleton who cured the bacon for the succulent slice of glazed bacon on my plate (see recipe in my Examiner Column of June 28^th on Summer Picnics).
For the team of gardeners on the farm who had sown the seeds for the juicy roast tomatoes back in February, transplanted them at the end of March, tended and watered them for over four months for me to enjoy. The deep red tomatoes were ripened fully on the vine for maximum flavour, packed with lycopene, lots of other minerals and vitamins and super tasty.
Remember, scientists now understand that flavour equates to nutrient intensity – nature’s way of tempting us to eat healthy wholesome food. The tomatoes were halved, seasoned with flaky sea salt, freshly cracked pepper, a good sprinkling of sugar and a generous drizzle of extra virgin olive oil. Fifteen minutes or so in a good hot oven and then a scattering of fresh herbs while still warm. You can’t imagine how delicious it was because the tomatoes were so good to start with.

The red and yellow peppers for the piperonata came from Caitriona Daunt at Organic Republic but the new season’s onion, tomatoes and basil were also from here.
The colcannon made from freshly dug potatoes, new season onions and cabbage took close to five months to grow too, a blight resistant variety called Kelly cultivated organically without a spec of glyphosate, just rich fertile soil enriched with compost and seaweed from the local strand.
Once again, special thanks to the gardeners for those and for the flat pod French beans. This is a brilliant variety called Hilda, they crop and crop and when the beans swell in the pods at the end of the season, they can be dried for winter soups and stews.
I also need to thank Billy for looking after the cows who produce the rich Jersey milk, the basis for the simple parsley sauce, a favourite from my childhood, soooo unctuous and delicious.
Next,  I thought of Maria, our Dairy Queen or was it Tiffin and gave thanks for the dollop of homemade butter melting over the beans and into my colcannon.
So much work and love went into producing the simple feast on my plate. Once again, in the Quaker tradition, I silently gave thanks to Mother Nature et al for every nourishing bite.
I don’t hanker after an expensive Prada handbag or a pair of Gucci shoes…For me to sit down to a plate of food where everything on the plate comes from the farm, gardens or local area is luxury indeed. How blessed am I.
Afterwards a bowl of Loganberry fool, accompanied by a couple of Jane’s biscuits, the name that Myrtle Allen gave these delicious little shortbread biscuits that the children made over and over again on wet afternoons.
Every bite has a story, that’s what memories are made of…

Colcannon

Songs have been sung, and poems have been written about Colcannon – one of our most traditional potato dishes. This comfort food at its very best has now been ‘discovered’ and is often a feature on chic restaurant menus in London and New York.

Did you ever eat colcannon

When ’twas made with yellow cream

And the kale and praties blended

Like a picture in a dream?

Did you ever scoop a hole on top

To hold the melting lake

Of the clover-flavoured butter

Which your mother used to make?

Serves 8-10 approximately

Ingredients

1.8kg ‘old’ potatoes, e.g. Golden Wonders or Kerr’s Pinks

700g Savoy or spring cabbage

450ml approximately boiling milk or more if needed

salt and freshly ground pepper

50g approximately butter

Method

Scrub the potatoes, put them in a saucepan of cold water, add a good pinch of salt and bring to the boil. When the potatoes are about half cooked, 15 minutes approx. for ‘old’ potatoes, strain off two-thirds of the water, replace the lid on the saucepan, put onto a gentle heat and allow the potatoes to steam until they are cooked.

Remove the dark outer leaves from the cabbage. Wash the rest and cut into quarters, remove the core and cut finely across the grain. Boil in a little boiling water or bacon cooking water until soft. Drain, season with salt, freshly ground pepper and a little butter.

When the potatoes are just cooked, bring the milk to the boil. Pull the peel off the potatoes and discard, mash quickly while they are still warm and beat in enough boiling milk to make a fluffy purée. Then stir in the cooked cabbage and taste for seasoning.  For perfection, serve immediately in a hot dish with a lump of butter melting in the centre – the texture should be soft but not quite flowing.

Colcannon may be prepared ahead up to this point, covered and reheated later in a moderate oven 180°C/Gas Mark 4, for 20-25 minutes approx. Add the butter just before serving

Note

Cover closely while reheating so it doesn’t get too crusty on top.

Piperonata

This is one of the indispensable trio of vegetable stews that we always reckon to have to hand. We use it not only as a vegetable but also as a topping for pizzas, as a sauce for pasta, grilled fish or meat and as a filling for omelettes and pancakes.

Serves 8-10

Ingredients

2 tbsp olive oil

225g onion, sliced

a clove of garlic, crushed

2 organic red peppers

2 organic green peppers

6 large organic or chemical-free tomatoes (dark red and very ripe)

salt, freshly ground pepper and sugar

a few leaves of fresh basil

Method

Heat the olive oil in a casserole, add the onion and garlic, toss in the oil and allow to soften over a gentle heat in a covered casserole while the peppers are being prepared. Halve the peppers, remove the seeds carefully, cut into quarters and then cut the pepper flesh into 2-2 ½cm squares.  Add to the onion and toss in the oil; replace the lid and continue to cook for 5 minutes.

Meanwhile peel the tomatoes (scald in boiling water for 10 seconds, pour off the water and peel immediately). Slice the tomatoes and add to the casserole, season with salt, freshly ground pepper, sugar and a few leaves of fresh basil if available. Cook until the vegetables are just soft, 30 minutes approx.

Variations

Spicy Piperonata

Add 1 tsp smoked paprika and a pinch of chilli flakes (the quantity will depend on aroma and pungency of spices – add more to taste if you like it a little spicier) to the onions and garlic and proceed as in the master recipe. 

Piperonata, Bean and Chorizo Stew

Add a can of rinsed haricot beans, black-eyed beans or chickpeas to the piperonata, with 110g sliced chorizo sausage, continue to cook for about 10 minutes or until the chorizo is fully cooked.

Loganberry Fool with Jane’s Biscuits

If you can’t lay your hands on loganberries, raspberries are pretty delicious too – so easy.

Serves 6

Ingredients

450g loganberries

175-225g caster sugar

25-600ml softly whipped cream

Method

If the loganberries are fresh just whizz the berries in a blender with the sugar.  Push the purée through a nylon sieve, fold in the softly whipped cream to taste.  Serve with shortbread biscuits. 

Should the fruit be frozen just scatter the berries in a single layer on a plate.  Sprinkle with the sugar and allow to come back to room temperature.  When almost defrosted, liquidise and proceed as above.

Jane’s Biscuits – Shortbread Biscuits

*This recipe was originally in imperial measurements, to get best results, weigh in oz.

Makes 25

Ingredients

6oz white flour or Spelt

4oz butter

2oz castor sugar

Method

Put the flour and sugar into a bowl, rub in the butter as for shortcrust pastry. Gather the mixture together and knead lightly. Roll out to 7mm thick.  Cut into rounds with a 6cm cutter or into heart shapes.  Bake in a moderate oven 180°C/Gas Mark 4 to pale brown, 8-15 minutes, depending on the thickness of the biscuits. Remove immediately and cool on a wire rack.

Delicious biscuits to nibble but we also serve with fruit fools, compotes and ice cream.

Note: Watch these biscuits really carefully in the oven. Because of the high sugar content, they burn easily. They should be a pale golden – darker will be more bitter.

However, if they are too pale, they will be undercooked and doughy.  Cool on a wire rack.

Gluten Free: Swap the flour for Bob’s Red Mill 1 to 1 Baking Flour for a delicious gluten-free alternative

The word JIBRIN may not mean anything to you but mention Izz Café on George Quay in Cork city and people’s eyes light up.

This little café, serving traditional Palestinian food was originally opened in 2019 by Izzeddeen Alkarajeh and Ema Aburabi.

They sought asylum in Ireland from a variety of challenging situations. After a spell in Direct Provision, they eventually got their papers processed and were determined to contribute to the country that gave them refuge.

Through the Society of Friends in Cork, they were introduced to Rupert Hugh-Jones who operates Farmers’ Markets in both Mahon Point and Douglas. With much encouragement and goodwill, they eventually set up a stall selling manaeesh za’atar (flatbread), hummus and moutabal. The response was overwhelmingly positive. On the first day, they sold out in just 2 hours.

This encouraged them to follow their dream of opening a café.

Izz, who has a bachelor’s degree in computer science, is particularly passionate about coffee. He longed to roast and blend and introduce customers to the Palestinian coffee they are now famous for. Izz Café was opened a year to the day later on George’s Quay in Cork city.

Eman, who holds a diploma in interior design, cooked from scratch, the hauntingly delicious traditional Palestinian dishes that she had learned from her mother and grandmother’s kitchen.

Word spread, Corkonians flocked to get a taste of Eman’s rich and comforting food, perfumed with fresh spices – za’atar, sumac, citrus and extra virgin olive oil. Both they and Izz Café have become a beloved part of the Cork restaurant scene. They have since expanded their space in response to the growing demand. Such a lovely story and now Habib, a talented, young refugee from Gaza who loves to cook has also joined Izz Café.

They are actively involved in community driven initiatives including fundraisers such as ‘Coffee for Palestine’ and ‘One Plate for Palestine.’

But the most recent excitement is the publication of their first cookbook in which they share many of the Izz Café favourites. It’s published by Blasta Books (#15 in the series) and entitled ‘JIBRIN’ named for both Izz and Eman’s now abandoned family homeland, Beit Jibrin in Palestine, how poignant is that…

I’m hoping to do an East Cork Slow Food event here at the Ballymaloe Cookery School with Izz Café in the near future (they have recently been awarded the Best Middle Eastern in Ireland), I’ll keep you posted but meanwhile, seek out the original. Izz Café on George’s Quay in Cork city.

Here are three recipes from the JIBRIN cookbook to whet your appetite.

Nabulsi Knafeh

Nabulsi knafeh is a sweet, cheesy pastry layered with kataifi pastry, then soaked in aromatic sugar syrup. This dessert is from Nablus in Palestine and is a festive favourite for special occasions. The story goes that one of the caliphs was depressed and asked his chef to come up with something to impress him, and this was the result.

Serves 10

Ingredients

200g Nabulsi or Akkawi cheese, diced small, or grated mozzarella

500g frozen kataifi pastry

225g ghee or unsalted butter, melted, plus extra for greasing

2 tsp caster sugar

FOR THE SYRUP:

400g caster sugar

240ml water

1 tbsp freshly squeezed lemon juice

1 tsp rosewater or orange blossom water (optional)

TO DECORATE:

finely chopped pistachios

Method

The Nabulsi or Akkawi cheese needs to have the salt removed, so put the diced cheese in a bowl, cover with cold water and soak for 15 minutes, then drain. Repeat this process every 15 minutes for 4 hours to remove the salt. Squeeze the diced cheese into even smaller pieces and set aside. Skip these steps if you’re using grated mozzarella.

Preheat the oven to 180°C/Gas Mark 4. This works best in a conventional oven, using the top and bottom heat. Grease a 30.5cm cake tin generously with melted ghee or butter. Knafeh is traditionally made in a copper tray because it conducts the heat so well, but this will work too.

Chop the frozen kataifi pastry into small pieces to make it easier to blend. Add it in batches to a food processor and pulse until it’s a fine powder.

Put the pastry in a large bowl with most of the melted ghee or butter and the sugar. Use your hands to combine into a dough. Add more ghee or butter if needed to bring it together – it should hold together when you squeeze it.

Spread half of the dough over the base of the greased tin, making sure there are no gaps and pressing it down in a firm, even layer.

Scatter the cheese over the pastry base, keeping the edges clear. Scatter the rest of the dough on top, pressing it gently to flatten the surface.

Bake in the preheated oven for 35-40 minutes, until the cheese has melted and the top is golden and crisp.

Meanwhile, to make the syrup, put the sugar, water and lemon juice in a saucepan and bring to a boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for about 10 minutes, stirring to dissolve the sugar, until thickened. Stir in the

rosewater or orange blossom water (if using). Set aside to cool.

Remove the knafeh from the oven and immediately pour the cooled syrup over it, then scatter over the pistachios to decorate. Let it soak for 10-15 minutes before serving.

Sumagiyya (Palestinian Sumac Stew)

Sumagiyya is a tangy Palestinian stew from Gaza, featuring slow-cooked meat with Swiss chard, tahini and subtle spices in a sumac-infused broth, which is what gives the stew its signature tartness. Especially popular in Gaza City, sumagiyya is often served during festivities.

Serves 6

Ingredients

FOR THE SUMAC WATER:

100g whole dried sumac berries

720ml cold water

FOR BOILING THE MEAT:

500g stewing beef or lamb, cut into bite-sized pieces

1 onion, quartered

2 bay leaves

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

FOR THE STEW:

120ml olive oil, plus extra to serve

3 medium onions, finely diced

500g Swiss chard, finely chopped

1 x 400g tin of chickpeas, drained and rinsed

1 tsp mixed spice

60g plain flour

120ml tahini

FOR THE DAQQA

(SPICE MIX):

4 garlic cloves

1 tsp chilli flakes

1 tsp dried dill

1 tsp salt

TO SERVE:

warm pitta

Method

Put the sumac berries in a bowl, cover with the cold water and soak for 2 hours.

Put the meat, onion and bay leaves in a large pot and cover with plenty of cold water. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat and skim off any foam that appears on the surface. Add a little salt and pepper and simmer for 40 minutes, until the meat is cooked. Strain the broth into a bowl, then set the meat aside and keep the broth.

Pour the sumac berries and their soaking water into a separate saucepan and bring to a boil, then cook for 15 minutes. Strain the berries through a fine mesh sieve. Discard the berries and keep the sumac-infused water.

For the stew, heat the olive oil in a large pot on a medium heat. Add the diced onions and cook for 10 minutes, until completely soft.

To make the daqqa (spice mix) while the onions are cooking, crush the garlic, chilli flakes, dill and salt together until smooth. Stir the daqqa into the onions and cook for 1 minute, until fragrant.

Add the Swiss chard and stir until wilted, then add the boiled meat, chickpeas and mixed spice. Pour over the strained sumac water, making sure all the ingredients are fully covered. Stir well and simmer on a medium heat for 10 minutes.

Gradually add the flour while stirring continuously until the mixture thickens, then stir in the tahini. Reduce the heat to low and cook for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally.

To serve, ladle the sumagiyya into serving bowls and let it cool completely. We leave it in the fridge overnight and eat it cold the next day, but it’s often served at room temperature.

Drizzle a little olive oil over the top of each bowl and serve with warm pitta.

Basbousa (Middle Eastern Semolina Cake)

Basbousa is a semolina cake drenched in sweet syrup, commonly infused with rosewater or orange blossom water and topped with almonds. Originating from the Eastern Mediterranean, basbousa is cherished in Palestine, Egypt and beyond. The subtle floral notes honour a tradition of incorporating aromatic essences into Middle Eastern sweets.

Makes 15 pieces

Ingredients

tahini or butter, for greasing the tin

200g caster sugar

240ml sunflower oil

240ml natural yogurt or sour cream

3 large eggs

1 tsp rosewater, orange blossom water or vanilla

extract

360g medium semolina

2 tsp baking powder

1 tsp baking soda

a small pinch of salt

270g desiccated coconut

FOR THE SYRUP:

300g caster sugar

240ml water

1 tbsp freshly squeezed lemon juice

1 tsp rosewater or orange blossom water (optional)

TO DECORATE:

15 blanched almonds or desiccated coconut, dried

rose petals, flaked almonds and finely chopped pistachios

Method

Preheat the oven to 180°C/Gas Mark 4.

Brush the base and sides of a 23cm x 33cm baking tin with tahini (or grease with butter if you don’t have tahini).

Put the sugar, oil, yogurt and eggs in a large bowl with the orange blossom water, rosewater or vanilla and whisk to combine.

Add the semolina, baking powder, baking soda and a small pinch of salt and whisk again. Finally, add the coconut. I like to use my hands to mix in the coconut to make sure it’s really well combined.

Transfer to the prepared tin, then tap the tin on the counter a few times to make sure the batter is evenly distributed. Let it sit for 15 minutes to allow the semolina to absorb the moisture, which will help to firm up the cake.

Using the tip of a sharp knife, score the top of the batter into 15 diamond or square shapes.

Bake in the preheated oven for 30-35 minutes, until the cake has risen and turned golden and a skewer inserted into the centre comes out clean.

Meanwhile, to make the syrup, put the sugar and water in a saucepan over a medium heat. Stir until the sugar dissolves, then bring to a boil and add the lemon juice. Reduce the heat and simmer for 10 minutes, until slightly thickened. Remove the pan from the heat and add the rosewater or orange blossom water (if using). Set aside and keep warm – you don’t want it to thicken as it cools.

As soon as the cake comes out of the oven, cut it all the way through along the score lines, then pour the syrup all over the top. Let it sit for 30 minutes to soak up the syrup.

It’s traditional to put a whole almond in the middle of each portion of cake, but in the café, we omit this and instead decorate each slice with desiccated coconut, dried rose petals, flaked almonds and finely chopped pistachios.