As I write, we’ve just had
the first really hard frost of the year. The gardens look absolutely magical
this morning but I’ve been anxiously watching the red berries on the holly
trees… hoping against hope that the hungry birds won’t polish off all the
berries before I get a chance to pick sprigs to decorate the mantelpiece or to
pop behind pictures on the walls, super old-fashioned I know but I really,
really love holly and of course a real Christmas tree.
I’d just
begun to scribble out my Christmas list but now I’m off to fill the bird
feeders instead, hoping to distract the blackbirds and thrushes from the red
and yellow berries.
Christmas
is all about memories but let’s keep it simple this year. The challenge is not
to get totally exhausted while creating those magical memories for everyone
else. I can’t help dwelling on how stressful the Christmas season is for
already crazy busy and overburdened parents.
For me and
probably every one of us, it’s all about planning and lists and the joy of
crossing off one job at a time.
It’s
certainly much more fun and a heck of a lot less work when everyone gets
involved, when each and every member of the family cheerfully takes
responsibility for a different element of the festive season. Even the
‘littles’ can and usually love to contribute making decorations, illustrating
place cards, practising singing carols!
This week
I’m mulling over possible starters for the Christmas feast. Has to be something
light, lovely, tantalisingly fresh and easy to serve. Our top pic are some
delicious briny oysters, light and refreshing, not everyone’s choice I know but
I love them on adorned but others will enjoy a spoonful of dressing on top. How
about oysters with nam jim and crispy onions?
It can be
prepared ahead and added quickly just as you serve.
Tiny pots
of homemade smoked mackerel or chicken liver pâté with crostini or slivers of
hot toast are an easy and delicious option – keep the helpings really small and
add a little cucumber pickle to the smoked mackerel pâté plate. I love a few
Pedro Ximénez raisins over the top of the chicken liver pate. Macerate the
raisins several days ahead so they are plump and deliciously boozy.
Grape,
melon and mint cocktail is a long time family favourite and many of you, I know
have adopted it as part of your Christmas tradition too.
There are
lots and lots of suggestions in my Christmas book, but I have four more to
tempt you including two that will also appeal to your vegetarian and/or vegan
guests.
How about
smoked trout or salmon, cucumber and fennel pickle and watercress or ring the
changes with Gravlax with cucumber ribbon salad and mustard and dill mayo.
Or how
about some of Frank Hederman’s warm smoked salmon. All smoked fish keep well in
the fridge for other spontaneous meals over the festive season.
Citrus
fruits are at their best at this time of the year, plump, juicy and sweet, so
how about a pink grapefruit granita with pomegranate and shredded
mint. Light and refreshing before you tuck into several slices of plump
turkey or goose with all the trimmings.
I also love
the option of a light little salad starter. I’m particularly fond of this kale,
fennel and radish salad with a sprinkling of Parmesan or aged Coolea on top. It
will also appeal to your vegetarian guests, omit the cheese for your vegan
friends, it’ll still be fresh and delicious.
It’s also
worth having a few soups in the fridge freezer and particularly fond of
celeriac and hazelnut soup or Jerusalem artichoke with avocado and roasted
cashew nuts.
Have fun
and enjoy the festive season.
Gravlax with Cucumber Ribbon Salad and Mustard and Dill Mayonnaise
Smoked salmon can be substituted for the gravlax if desired.
Serves 8
Ingredients
225-350g gravlax (see recipe)
mustard and dill mayonnaise (see recipe)
Cucumber Ribbon Salad
1 cucumber
75-110g sugar
2 tsp salt
75ml cider vinegar
Garnish
sprigs of fresh dill
chive flowers
freshly cracked black pepper
Method
Two to three days before, prepare the gravlax. On the day of serving, make the pickled cucumber ribbons. Cut the cucumber in half, then cut into strips using a potato peeler. Put the cucumber into a deep bowl and add the sugar, salt and cider vinegar. Toss gently and leave for at least 30 minutes.
Meanwhile make the mustard and dill mayonnaise (see recipe).
To assemble, unwrap the gravlax, wipe off the dill mixture and cut down to the skin in thin slices. Arrange the drained cucumber strips and the gravlax in a haphazard way on each serving plate. Drizzle with mustard and dill mayonnaise. Garnish with tiny sprigs of dill and chive flowers. Finally, add a little freshly cracked black pepper over each serving.
Gravlax
This is a simply brilliant standby, miles more impressive than smoked salmon. We use it for canapés, starter salads or as a main course for light summer lunch with pickled cucumber, deliciously runny semi-hard boiled eggs and salad leaves.
We are all addicted to this pickled salmon, which keeps for up to a week. Fresh dill is essential, but we also have fun with black peppercorns, coriander seeds, wholegrain mustard and vodka. Slices of beetroot on the salmon will dye the surface of the fish pink – festive and fun
Serves 12 – 16 as a starter
Ingredients
1 or 2 sides of trout or wild Irish salmon if you are lucky enough to get some (approx. weight 1.1kg each side)
4 tbsp finely chopped fresh dill, plus extra to garnish
2 heaped tbsp sea salt
2 heaped tbsp sugar
2 tsp freshly ground black pepper
Method
Fillet the trout or salmon and remove all the bones with tweezers. Mix the dill, salt, sugar and pepper together in a bowl. Place the fish on a piece of parchment paper and scatter the mixture over the surface of the fish. Wrap tightly and refrigerate for a minimum of 24 hours, or better still, up to 2 days.
To serve, wipe the dill mixture off the salmon and slice thinly down onto the skin.
Mustard and Dill Mayonnaise
Great with gravlax. And yes, you do need all this mustard and sugar.
Makes 425ml
Ingredients
1 large egg yolk, preferably free-range and organic
2 tbsp French mustard
1 tbsp sugar
150ml groundnut or sunflower oil
1 tbsp white wine vinegar
1 tbsp finely chopped fresh dill
salt and white pepper
Method
Whisk the egg yolk with
the mustard and sugar, drip in the oil drop by drop, whisking all the time,
then add the vinegar and fresh dill and season with salt and white pepper.
Ruby Grapefruit, Pomegranate and Shredded Mint Salad
The pomegranate season used to be very short, but now they seem to be available virtually all year round. Some are much paler – look out for the variety called Wonderful. A perfect starter before Christmas dinner – fresh, light and delicious.
Serves 4-6
Ingredients
2 ruby grapefruit
½ -1 tbsp fresh pomegranate seeds
3 tbsp of shredded fresh mint leaves
1-2 tbsp caster sugar
Garnish
fresh mint or lemon balm leaves
Method
Peel the skin from the grapefruit with a sharp knife so that all the pith is removed. Segment the grapefruit and put it into a bowl. Toss the pomegranate seeds into the bowl. Add the shredded mint leaves, sprinkle with sugar and taste for sweetness. Leave to macerate for at least 10 minutes.
Serve chilled in pretty white bowls or on plates. Spoon a little juice over the salad. Garnish with fresh mint or lemon balm leaves.
Kale, Fennel, Radish and Parmesan Salad
So delicious and fresh tasting – the perfect salad before a festive meal. I also love to use an aged Coolea or Hegarty’s Cheddar cheese.
Serves 4 as a starter
Ingredients
110g fennel, thinly sliced
8 radishes (preferably French Breakfast), thinly sliced at a long angle
150g green curly kale, stalks included
3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
1 tbsp lemon juice
4 tbsp grated Parmesan cheese
salt and freshly ground pepper
Keep the sliced fennel and radishes in iced water for at least 5 minutes. Drain well. Remove the stalks from the kale and shred the leaves very finely (discard the stalk).
Method
Put
the kale, drained fennel and radishes into a bowl. Drizzle with the extra
virgin olive oil and lemon juice. Grate on some Parmesan with a microplane.
Season with salt and freshly ground pepper. Toss, taste and serve.
Christmas Salad of Pomegranates, Persimmons and Pecans
Such an exquisite combination – a delicious starter or a side salad with cold meats, best made close to enjoying !
Serves 8
Ingredients
Vinaigrette
2 tbsp Balsamic vinegar or Sherry vinegar
2 tsp Dijon mustard
2 shallots, peeled and finely chopped
salt and freshly ground pepper
5 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
3 ripe Fuyu persimmons (little firm persimmons)
3 ripe d’Anjou or other pears
1 lime, freshly squeezed
seeds from ½ pomegranate
a selection of frizzy lettuce, watercress and rocket leaves
1 lime freshly squeezed
75-110g fresh toasted pecans
Method
First make the vinaigrette.
Mix the Balsamic or sherry vinegar, mustard, shallots, salt and pepper. Whisk in the olive oil until emulsified.
Slice the persimmons and pears into slices about 5mm thick. Put into a medium bowl and sprinkle with freshly squeezed lime juice. Add the pomegranate seeds. Toss gently.
Wash and dry the greens, store in a clean towel in the fridge until ready to use.
Preheat the oven to 180°C/Gas Mark 4
Put the pecans onto a baking sheet in a moderate oven for 5-6 minutes, tossing gently from time to time. Alternatively toast under a grill.
To Serve
Toss the greens in some of the vinaigrette and arrange on eight plates. Toss the fruit mixture lightly in the remaining vinaigrette. Arrange on top of the greens and sprinkle with the toasted pecans. Serve immediately.