ArchiveMarch 2026

Here comes Saint Patrick’s Day, traditionally, it was a day to take a break from Lenten fasting, an opportunity to celebrate, maybe even have a drink or two or three!
How many of you in the midst of these crazy times, even remember the excitement and the buildup to the feast day of our legendary patron saint  who drove all the snakes out of Ireland and showed us the meaning of the Trinity using the little tree leaved shamrock that he found growing at his feet.
Originally, children used to make their own Saint Patrick’s Day badges and rosettes to wear on coat lapels and hats going to the morning mass. Later we could buy shiny green and gold badges with harps and shamrocks in our local village shops.
Speaking of which, if you have time to pop into the National Museum in Dublin, you’ll find several examples of the charming little badges, handmade from little scraps of coloured paper and wisps of material. On another subject, I bet there was a mixture of relief and apprehension in diplomatic circles when the invite eventually arrived for the Taoiseach to join the unpredictable Mr. Trump on Saint Patrick’s Day in the White House. I’ve always loved the idea of our prime minister presenting a bowl of shamrock to the President of the United States – wonder who thought of that brilliant idea originally and who has the responsibility of transporting it, so it arrives fresh and perky in Washington. Does it come all the way from Ireland? Many times, I’ve actually bought a little pot of Shamrock in the US where I spent many a Saint Patrick’s Day, happily promoting Ireland and teaching nostalgic Irish and their friends how to make an authentic Irish soda bread.
Much depends on these Saint Patrick’s Day meetings, a coveted opportunity to remind countries around the world, (over 50 this year) of Ireland’s attributes, to promote trade, connect and celebrate with the global Irish diaspora.
This year, Saint Patrick’s Day marks 100 YEARS OF IRELAND IN THE WORLD, a whole century of our country’s engagement as an active member of the international promotion of democracy, peace and security. No doubt Micheál will work his charm once again in promoting Ireland as a great place to invest and trade with, to live, visit, work and study in. We’ve got 14 nationalities here at the Ballymaloe Cookery School at present, we’ll encourage them all to go foraging for shamrock on Tuesday next and to wear a splash of green. Then we’ll tuck into a feast of corned beef and cabbage and the first rhubarb tart of the year and of course some soda bread and our favourite Spotted Dog which for the purpose of this column has been renamed St Patrick’s Day Soda Bread. Do please have a go, it’s super easy, and you can’t imagine how delicious it is cut into thick slices, slathered with butter and a cup of, you know whose tea! Happy Saint Patrick’s Day.

St. Patrick’s Day Soda Bread

Soda breads are the traditional breads of our country. Making a loaf of soda bread is a simple life skill that everyone should know.  A loaf or a tray of scones will be made in minutes and out of the oven before you find your car keys to drive to the shop!

Soda bread only takes a few minutes to make and 30-40 minutes to bake. It is certainly another of our ‘great convertibles’. We have a lot of fun experimenting with different variations from teeny weenies to crusty loaves and deep-pan pizza.  The possibilities are endless for the hitherto humble soda bread.

To make a Spotted Dog, add 110g of dried fruit (sultanas or raisins), 1 egg and 1 dessertspoon of sugar to the basic recipe.

Makes 1 round loaf

Ingredients

450g plain white flour

1 level tsp bicarbonate of soda

1 level tsp salt

350-400ml sour milk or buttermilk (the quantity depends on the thickness of the milk)

Preheat the oven to 230°C/Gas Mark 8.

*Soda bread is best cooked in a conventional oven rather than a fan or convection oven.

Method

Sieve the dry ingredients into a large bowl. Make a well in the centre and pour most of the milk in at once. Using one hand with the fingers stiff and outstretched, mix in a full circular movement from the centre to the outside of the bowl, gradually drawing in the flour from the sides.  Add a little more milk if necessary – shop bought buttermilk is thinner than farm-fresh, so you will need less rather than more. The dough should be softish, not too wet and sticky. The trick with all soda breads is not to overmix the dough – mix the dough as quickly and as gently as possible, keeping it really light and airy.  When it all comes together, a matter of seconds – turn it out onto a well-floured work surface. 

WASH AND DRY YOUR HANDS, then dust them with flour.

Tidy up the dough and flip it over gently.  Pat into a round, about 4cm deep.  Gather some of the excess flour from the worktop and sprinkle it on the centre of the baking tray.  With a sharp knife, cut a deep cross on top and prick the four corners with the tip of your knife to let the fairies out, otherwise they will jinx your bread!

Bake in the preheated oven for 15 minutes, then reduce the temperature to 200°C/Gas Mark 6 and bake for 30 minutes more, until cooked. If you are in doubt, tap the bottom of the bread – if it’s fully cooked, it will sound hollow.

Allow to cook on a wire rack.

Fadge or Potato Bread

In Ulster, people are passionate about fadge or potato bread.  It can be cooked on a griddle, in a frying pan or in the oven. A little leftover mashed potato can be, and often was, added to soda bread.

Serves 8

Ingredients

900g unpeeled ‘old’ potatoes e.g. Golden Wonders or Kerr’s Pinks

1 egg, beaten

25-50g butter, diced

40g plain flour

fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

creamy milk

bacon fat, clarified butter of olive oil for frying

Method

Bake or boil the potatoes in their jackets until soft, then pull off the skins and mash right away.   Add the beaten egg, butter and flour.  Season with lots of salt and freshly ground black pepper, adding a few drops of creamy milk if the mixture is too stiff. Taste and correct the seasoning.

Tip out onto a floured surface and shape into an 18cm round that’s 2.5cm thick, then cut into eight wedges. Dip in seasoned flour.

Heat some bacon fat, melted clarified butter or olive oil in a cast iron or griddle pan on a gentle heat. Add the wedges to the pan and cook for 4-5 minutes, until the fadge is crusty and golden on one side. Flip it over and cook the other side for 4-5 minutes more, until crusty and golden.

Alternatively, arrange the wedges on a baking tray and bake in an oven preheated to 180˚C/Gas Mark 4 for 15-20 minutes. 

Serve with an Ulster fry or just on its own on hot plates with a blob of butter melting on top.

Variation

Once again, one can do lots of riffs on potato bread.  Add chopped chives, wild garlic, thyme leaves, seaweed…

Bacon and Cabbage  

Without question Ireland’s national dish – less widely known abroad, but much more widely eaten, particularly in rural Ireland, than the legendary Irish stew.  *Nowadays, bacon is far less salty than it was in the 1970’s & 1980’s so it may not need to be blanched before cooking, just rub your finger along the surface and taste!

Serves 12-15

Ingredients

1.8-2.25kg loin or shoulder or streaky bacon with a nice covering of fat

1 head of cabbage: savoy, greyhound or spring cabbage, depending on the time of year

butter

white pepper

To Serve

Parsley Sauce (see recipe)

Method

If the bacon is too salty, cover in cold water and bring slowly to the boil (uncovered), white froth will rise to the top.  Pour off the water. Cover with hot water and simmer until nearly cooked through, allowing at least 20 minutes per 450g.

Meanwhile, remove the outer leaves from the cabbage. Cut the cabbage into quarters, discarding the centre core. Cut each quarter into thin strips across the grain. About 30 minutes before the bacon is cooked, add the cabbage. Continue to cook until the cabbage is soft and tender, and the bacon is fully cooked through. Remove the bacon to a hot plate and strain the water off the cabbage. Return the cabbage to the pan with a lump of butter, season with white pepper. Serve with the bacon and, traditionally, boiled potatoes and lots of Parsley Sauce (see recipe).

Fresh Parsley Sauce

Serves 6-8

Ingredients

4 tbsp finely chopped fresh parsley leaves (retain the stalks)

600ml fresh whole milk

30-45g roux (equal quantities of plain flour and butter, cooked together for 2 minutes on a low heat, stirring occasionally)

salt and freshly ground pepper

Method

Put the parsley stalks into a saucepan with the cold milk, bring slowly to the boil, then remove the stalks. Whisk the roux into the boiling milk until thickened and add lots and lots of chopped fresh parsley. Season with salt and freshly ground pepper. Simmer for 5-10 minutes on a very low heat, then taste and correct the seasoning before serving.

For me, when I’m on holiday, one of the greatest luxuries is to be able to sit and relax and not to have to rush after breakfast. I’m in Ahilya Fort located 2 1/2 hours by car from Indore in India.
Breakfast is outdoors on the Mandap, the upper terrace overlooking the sacred Narmada River, next to the ‘Pug Hotel’ where four chubby pugs soak up adoration from the passing guests.
My breakfast at home – it’s a cup of coffee, a glass of freshly squeezed orange juice (my daily shot of vitamin C) and then on with the business of the day.
Here, it’s bliss being able to linger over breakfast…the only decision I’ve got to make is what to choose from the menu.
I’ll definitely have chai masala, a milky spiced tea, with just one lump of sugar, maybe a piece of ripe papaya and a squeeze of fresh lime. A bowl of homemade buffalo curd (natural yoghurt) with a drizzle of wild  honey plus the suggestion of a crunchy homemade muesli made with puffed and flaked rice to scatter over the yoghurt with sliced locally grown bananas.
Will it be some spicy Maheshwari scrambled eggs, with a dice of fresh turmeric and coriander leaves sprinkled over the top and maybe a crisp rasher on the side or perhaps a herb omelette made with farm eggs, freshly grated cheese, and a fistful of fresh herbs from the garden.
Maybe I’ll have some fresh bam, an eel type fish from downstream on the river Narmada, fried with lots of green chilli, spices and more fresh turmeric from our host’s organic farm.
And then there’s a daily special.
Could be south Indian dosa with sambhar or coconut, tomato, tamarind and green chutneys. Maybe Appam with isthew or maybe chole or aloo puri, or a variety of parathas.
Such difficult decisions to make in the morning and of course I want to have the recipe for each and every one.
There is also the option of a traditional Irish breakfast with a little bowl of super sweet baked beans but why would you want that when there are so many Indian options to try.
Today, I’ll share three recipes which Ahilya Fort generously shared with me. All are easy to make at home. Try to find really fresh organic free range eggs, maybe you have listened to my constant nagging to have a few hens of your own in a coop in your backyard to eat up the food scraps and reward you with beautiful eggs for your Maheshwari scrambled eggs.

Maheshwari Scrambled Eggs 

Thank you to the chefs at Ahilya Fort for sharing the recipe for this delicious Indian riff on scrambled eggs. 

Serves 1 

1 tbsp extra virgin olive oil 

1 medium garlic clove, finely chopped 

2 tsp chopped red onion (20g)

3 tsp chopped tomato, 5mm dice (50g)

1 tsp cumin seeds, dry roasted and roughly chopped

½ tsp ground turmeric 

2 eggs, organic if possible

½ tsp salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 tbsp extra virgin olive oil 

1 tbsp finely grated cheese, could be mature Cheddar and Parmesan (20g)

finely diced fresh turmeric (2-3g)

2 tsp coarsely chopped fresh coriander 

Heat the olive oil in a frying pan over a medium heat.

Add the garlic, onion and tomato and stir and fry. Add the cumin and turmeric (both dry) and cook for 3-4 minutes until the onion softens.

Whisk the eggs, add the onion and tomato mixture. Season with salt and freshly ground black pepper.

Film the base of the pan with the olive oil. Stir and cook the egg mixture for 15-20 seconds.  Sprinkle on the grated cheese, cook for a further 15- 20 seconds, the texture should be soft. Spoon onto a warm plate. Sprinkle with diced fresh turmeric and fresh coriander.

Serve immediately with flat bread or toast.  

Ahilya Fort Muesli

Serve with yoghurt and sliced banana or sprinkle on stewed

apple for a crunchy topping.

Serves 20

60g approx. rice flakes (poha)

70g puffed rice (parmal)

100g oatmeal

60g approx. corn flakes

110g frozen coconut or slice thinly if fresh

50g almonds, halved

50g cashews, halved

40g or more sesame seeds

150-300g honey

1 ½ tbsp of ghee or clarified butter

80g raisin or sultanas

Preheat the oven to 200°C/Gas Mark 6.

Mix the rice flakes, puffed rice, oatmeal, corn flakes together, add the coconut, halved nuts and seeds.

Heat the honey and ghee or oil in a small saucepan.

Pour over the dry ingredients, toss well to coat.

Spread on baking trays.

Bake in the preheated oven for 20-25 minutes, stirring regularly until crisp. Remove from the oven. Add the sultanas or raisins, they will plump up in the warmth. Allow to cool on the trays. Store in an airtight jar.

Ahilya Fort Herb and Cheese Omelette

The freshly laid eggs come directly from the Hens on the Organic farm and the herbs from the garden…

Serves 1

2 fresh farm eggs
salt and freshly cracked pepper
2 tbsp of coarsely chopped herbs, chives or green part of spring onions, thyme, parsley, marjoram
15g butter
25-50g freshly grated cheese, maybe, Cheddar, Gruyere and Parmesan or a mixture

Whisk the eggs in a bowl. Season well with salt and freshly ground pepper, add the coarsely chopped herbs.

Melt the butter in a medium to hot pan, when the butter is sizzling and melted, pour in the egg mixture. Tilt the pan to spread evenly. Allow to cook on the base for a minute or so, sprinkle some grated cheese over the surface and allow to cook for another minute or so. Fold in half to make a semi-circle, flip over so it colours slightly on both sides.

Slide onto a warm plate and serve alone or with fresh chutneys of your choice, perhaps a green chutney, coconut and tomato.

This week, three of my favourite ways with chicken thighs and an excuse to encourage all diehard white meat lovers to try brown meat, my own personal favourite.
Of course, I’ll eat white meat when I’m served it, but I would never voluntarily choose. Drumsticks and thighs are so much more flavourful than breast meat, but you won’t believe me until you actually taste the difference.
Did you know that chicken breast outsells chicken thighs by about 50% – recent data shows that chicken breast remains the most popular meat in Ireland.  However, apparently sales trends are shifting, with chicken thighs gaining popularity because of their flavour, versatility and excellent value. Since early 2025, sales of chicken thighs have grown by 15.9% over chicken breast. Poultry meat accounts for 45% of all meat consumed in Ireland. White meat can so easily be dry, although brining it in salty water for just 30-40 minutes can make a huge difference to both the texture and flavour.
I really do love chicken but only eat it maybe once a week.
Childhood memories of the plump, flavoursome chickens that Mummy reared on kitchen food scraps has made me pretty dissatisfied with the majority of chicken, most of which is intensely produced in conditions that certainly raise welfare issues.
From egg to slaughter in 28-30 days as opposed to free-range organic birds that walk freely outdoors for 80-100 days, scratching in the grass which keeps them happy and healthy. A bird reared this way obviously costs immensely more to rear than factory produced birds. The feed and hence the retail price must be €20 plus depending on the size. Difficult to countenance when one can buy an ‘orphan chicken’ for as little as €3.79 or €5.89 for an Irish free-range chicken. These organic chickens are scarce; I buy from just a few organic and free-range producers. They sometimes don’t have enough birds to supply the demand in the Ballymaloe Cookery School Farm Shop also. As a growing number of people search for nourishing wholesome healthy food, it’s vital that the food regulations are proportionate to the risk involved, to support rather than discourage the small poultry producers who are prepared and still have the skill to rear farmhouse birds. They need encouragement rather than unnecessary impediments put in their way and mandatory clear and honest labelling. 
Do I hear you saying, it’s all very fine for her, the perception may be that I can afford it.  Well, let me tell you I can afford what seems like a luxury because I only buy whole chickens, complete with giblets. I can get seven delicious meals from one plump chicken, using every single scrap, including the carcass and giblets plus the feet for stock.
1.  The crispy skin is super delicious.
2. Chicken breasts.
3. Chicken tenders.
4. Chicken drumsticks.
5. Chicken thighs.
6. Carcass and neck, giblets and feet when I get them. One supplier told me that he wished every chicken had four feet, such is the demand for chicken feet for their high collagen content and the flavour they impart to the stock.
7. Chicken liver, loaded with vitamins A and B12 makes the most delicious chicken liver pâté which Myrtle showed me how to make years ago when I first came to Ballymaloe and we have been enjoying it ever since.
8. Chicken hearts and gizzards for kebabs or a Salade des Gésiers, so beloved in French bistros.
A chicken thigh makes a perfect portion, it can be cooked whole, simply roasted with a sprinkle of flaky sea salt. Can be bone in or out, with or without the skin, it’s not in the least bit difficult to remove the bone, (crack it with the back of a chopping knife and add to the stock pot). The thigh can then be stuffed with whatever you fancy – a slick of pesto, some mozzarella, wrapped in pancetta.
Dice into chunks, simmer gently, add some freshly chopped fresh herbs or spices,  a splash of stock and cream to make a delicious sauce.
The skin peels off really easily, sprinkle it with flaky sea salt and crispy up in the oven at 120°C/Gas Mark ½ for 25-30 minutes.
So delicious that everyone will argue over it – use it to garnish your dish or just nibble.
For simple supper, just brush the chicken thighs with extra virgin olive oil, then lots of finely chopped fresh thyme or rosemary. Season generously with flaky sea salt and fresh ground pepper. Add a generous dusting of smoked paprika or a few chilli flakes if you fancy. Pop into the oven on a roasting tray, maybe add a few wedges but here are three chicken thigh recipes that will become firm favourites.

Ottolenghi’s Roast Chicken Thighs with Saffron, Hazelnuts and Honey

The cooking time will vary according to the size of the chicken thighs; this has become a great favourite for supper parties. If you are doing half the recipe, choose an oven-proof dish or tray just large enough to accommodate the chicken in a single layer.

Serves 6-8

Ingredients

8 large organic or free-range chicken thighs

2 onions, roughly chopped

4 tbsp olive oil

1 tsp ground ginger

1 tsp ground cinnamon

a generous pinch of saffron strands

juice of 1 lemon

4 tbsp cold water

2 tsp coarse sea salt

1 tsp black pepper

100g unskinned hazelnuts

70g honey

1-2 tbsp rosewater depending on strength of rosewater

2 spring onions, sliced at an angle

sprigs of coriander

Method

Mix the chicken pieces with the onions, olive oil, ginger, cinnamon, saffron, lemon juice and water in a large bowl.  Season with salt and pepper. Leave to marinate for at least 1 hour, or overnight in the fridge.

Preheat the oven to 200°C/Gas Mark 6. 

Spread the hazelnuts out on an oven tray and roast for 10 minutes, until lightly browned.  Chop roughly and set aside.

Reduce the temperature to 180°C/Gas Mark 4.

Transfer the chicken and marinade to a roasting tray just large enough to accommodate everything comfortably.  Arrange the chicken pieces skin side up and put the tray in the oven for about 35 minutes or until nearly cooked. * (see note at end of recipe).

While the chicken is roasting, mix the honey, rosewater and nuts together to make a rough paste.  Remove the chicken from the oven, spoon a generous amount of nut paste on to each piece and spread it to cover.  Return to the oven for 5-10 minutes, until the chicken is cooked through and the nuts are golden brown.

Transfer the chicken, the juices and toasted nuts to a serving dish and garnish with the sliced spring onions and coriander leaves.

*The organic chickens we use are larger; the thighs weigh about 185g and take approximately 1 ¼ – 1 ½ hours to cook.

One-Dish Roast Chicken Supper with Thyme and Rosemary

Another lip-smackingly delicious dish that family and friends love me to cook for them. A whole roasting tray of crispy chicken, bacon and potatoes, perfumed with rosemary and thyme leaves. For a feistier flavour, substitute one-third to half the bacon for diced chorizo. Halve the quantities below for a smaller serving.

Serves 8-10

Ingredients

2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil, plus extra for drizzling

500g streaky bacon lardons

2kg free-range, organic chicken thighs (drumsticks and wings can also be included)

2-3 tbsp thyme leaves

1-2 tbsp chopped rosemary

1.1kg (about 10 large) potatoes

250g onions, sliced

60-110ml hot chicken stock

flaky sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

To Serve

green salad or tomato fondue or piperonata

1 roasting tin – 37 x 31cm or 2 small tins – 30 x 20cm

Method

Preheat the oven to 230°C/Gas Mark 8.

Heat the olive oil in a roasting tin, add the bacon and toss over a high heat until it is beginning to colour.  Remove to a plate with a perforated spoon.

Season the chicken generously with salt and pepper. Put into a large bowl and scatter with most of the thyme leaves and chopped rosemary, reserving some for the potatoes. (I sometimes add a sprinkling of chilli flakes or smoked paprika – it gets a brilliant reaction). Toss well.

Peel the potatoes and cut into 1cm thick chips. Dry and season well with salt, pepper and the reserved herbs. Add to the bowl with chicken. Drizzle with the bacon fat and olive oil from the pan and toss once again.

Scatter the onions and bacon over the base of the roasting tin(s). Arrange the chicken and potatoes haphazardly on top, making sure that the potatoes are popping up. Drizzle with a little more olive oil.

Roast for 45 minutes–1 hour or until the chicken is cooked through (the juices should be running clear if pricked with a knife) and the chips are crispy at the edges. (Organic chicken pieces are larger, so cooking time can be up to 1 ¼ hours.)   Add the chicken stock at the end if the dish needs a little more juice.

Serve from the tin, family style, with a good green salad and vegetables of your choice, such as tomato fondue or piperonata if you wish.

Sticky Chinese Chicken Thighs

A perfect recipe to celebrate the Chinese New Year from February 17^th – March 3^rd 2026.

Serves 4

Ingredients

8 chicken thighs, skin on and bone in

4 tbsp hoisin sauce

2 tsp sesame oil

2 tbsp honey

½ tsp Chinese five-spice powder

thumb-sized knob of ginger, grated

2 garlic cloves, grated

bunch spring onions, chopped

50g cashew nuts, toasted or sesame seeds

To Serve

plain boiled rice

Method

Preheat the oven to 200°C/Gas Mark 6.

Arrange the chicken thighs in a large roasting tin and slash the skin 2-3 times on each thigh. 

Mix together the hoisin sauce, sesame oil, honey, five-spice powder, ginger, garlic and some salt and pepper.  Pour over the chicken and toss to coat – allow to marinate for 2 hours, or overnight if you have time.

Roast in the preheated oven, skin-side up for 35 minutes, basting as least once during cooking.  Sprinkle with toasted cashew nuts or sesame seeds and spring onions. 

Serve with rice.