The recent protests over the price of fuel should give us an insight into how quickly everything can change and how fast we can have shortages in many areas.
Unless there is some kind of minor miracle, we’re going to experience food shortages before the end of 2026. We’re sleepwalking into a monumental crisis for which we are ill-prepared. For most people, the idea of empty shelves in our supermarkets is inconceivable, but with two wars and an increasing number of unexpected weather events, all impacting in a myriad of ways on crop production and global supply chains, who knows what’s ahead.
Our current ‘Just in Time’ food system is highly vulnerable to shocks. After all, it was designed for efficiency and profit rather than resilience.
You may understandably feel that the government would have it all under control but I’m afraid the reality is, there is NO real plan. The much touted Food Vision 2030 has a different focus, the main emphasis is to ensure that Irish farmers produce enough beef, dairy… for export into the future.
A ‘Just in Case’ national resilience plan is now a matter of extreme urgency. Professor Tim Lang, Professor Emeritus of Food policy at City St George’s University of London, spent 2 ½ years working on a ‘Just in Case’ report for the UK and his message to the farming community at a recent NFU conference was loud and clear – You have work to do…
But let’s not rely on others any longer, we’ve allowed ourselves to become ridiculously de-skilled, many otherwise highly achieving people can scarcely make toast. What are we like allowing ourselves to become totally dependent on other people for the very thing that keeps us alive and hopefully healthy, completely unable to feed ourselves without resorting to ready meals and UPF’s (ultra-processed foods).
We’ve got to ‘wake up’ and see how vulnerable we’ve allowed ourselves to become. It probably sounds a bit paranoid, but I wouldn’t be against storing a few tins of beans, tomatoes, sardines… at the back of a cupboard.
There are many little ways we can become more self-sufficient, not just in rural areas but in urban and suburban areas also. Even if you don’t have a garden or a raised bed. It’s amazing what can be grown on a windowsill, balcony or even in a cardboard lined plastic crate or pots.
We are fortunate in many ways, that we are just coming into the very best time to sow seeds. On a windowsill, we can grow salad leaves, pea shoots, radishes, (use a blue plastic mushroom box for depth), and many fresh herbs, basil, mint, parsley and thyme. Put rosemary or sage into a flowerpot, plant a few tomato plants and maybe a chili pepper in large pots, a hanging basket works well too.
Eggs are really a must have food for most of us, think about getting a few hens if you haven’t already got them – four or five are plenty for an average family. Move a chicken coop around your garden, lawn or field. Feed your food scraps to the hens and they will reward you with eggs a few days later, a perfect win, win.
Do a bit of research, on your local farmers and Farmers’ Markets, support them, create a bond for the future. Local food systems are the key. International food companies are all very well but won’t help you in a crisis. The government urgently needs to encourage and wholeheartedly support small and artisan producers who sell locally.
Local multi species abattoirs are essential if the sector is to grow. There’s no point in rearing pigs, chickens, ducks, if there is nowhere to have them slaughtered. A support grant to upgrade facilities from a government that sees this as a priority would change the situation overnight and is badly needed.
Yes, another reason to prioritize local producers is the growing demand for artisan and specialty foods from food tourists. This sector needs maximum support and food safety regulations proportionate to the risk involved rather than the opposite which can create unnecessary fear and hassle and discourages others from joining the sector.
Pick up a pen, write to your local politician, express your concerns, ask for answers, make suggestions and also stress the urgency of embedding practical cooking skills in the national curriculum. It’s vital that it’s recognised as an absolute priority. After all, although maths is super important and an essential subject, you can’t eat a maths book!
So back to the kitchen, here are three new recipes that we’ve tested recently and added to our repertoire.

Mary Jo’s Spinach Quiche

You might think that a spinach quiche sounds dull but try this delicious recipe that our friend Mary Jo McMillin shared with us.  It can also be cooked in a rectangular tin (30.5 x 20.5cm) and cut into squares to serve with drinks.

Serves 6-8

Ingredients

Pastry (makes scant 900g pastry) – you will have more than required, freeze the excess for another time

450g plain white flour

l teaspoon salt

250g cold butter or 225g butter plus 25g lard

150ml ice water

Onion and Garlic

1 tbsp butter (or a mixture of butter and extra virgin olive oil)

salt

1 clove of garlic, finely diced

150-200g onion, finely diced

Quiche Filling 

110g cream cheese, room temperature

110ml whole milk

110ml heavy cream

3 large eggs

scant 1/2 tsp salt

freshly ground white pepper

generous grating fresh nutmeg

pinch of cayenne (optional)

Spinach Filling

450g frozen chopped leaf spinach, thawed or fresh spinach, blanched, drained and chopped

½ tsp salt

freshly ground white pepper

freshly grated nutmeg

generous sprinkling of chopped fresh dill

onion and garlic mixture

quiche filling

175g grated cheese

1 x 23cm deep quiche/tart tin with a removable base

Method

To make pastry in a food processor: put the flour and salt into a bowl. Add the cold butter and lard and cut in 1cm cubes or slices. Pulse 3 times to break up the butter into flakes. With the processor running, pour in the ice water in a slow stream through the feed tube. Stop the processor as soon as the pastry rolls into a ball. Remove the ball of dough from the bowl; shape into a 15cm long. Strip and cover and refrigerate.

Next, line the tin.

Shape 300g chilled pastry into a 10cm disk. Dust with flour and roll on a smooth, clean surface, giving the dough a quarter turn with each rolling to maintain a circle. Roll to a generous 33cm circle; brush off any excess flour. Fold in quarters; unfold onto the inside of the tin. Press the pastry firmly into the bottom edge of the tin. Trim the dough to an even 1cm overhang. Tuck the overhang inside the pastry edge, pressing firmly. Crimp or flute the top edge. Chill the pastry shell for at least 30 minutes before baking. Chilling relaxes the gluten in the flour and prevents shrinkage and cracking. In haste, the quiche shell may be chilled in the freezer for 10 minutes.

To make the Onion and Garlic Mixture.

Melt the butter or a mixture of butter and olive oil in a deep sauté pan. Add the diced onion; place the chopped garlic on top. Cover with parchment paper and cook over a low heat until the onion is soft and not browned. Season with salt and mix gently.

To make the quiche filling.

Cut the cream cheese into 2.5cm chunks and place into a processor bowl or blender. Add the milk and process. Scrape down the sides and mix to a smooth, dense cream. Add the eggs, salt, pepper, nutmeg, cayenne, and cream or remaining half-and-half to the processor or blender. Whizz to combine. Use straightaway or refrigerate in a plastic container.

To make the spinach filling.

Place the spinach in a strainer or colander and squeeze out the excess water. Season the spinach with salt, pepper, nutmeg and dill. Mix the seasoned spinach with the onion and garlic mixture.

To cook.

Preheat the oven to 200°C/Gas Mark 6.

Line the chilled pastry with parchment paper. Carefully press the parchment paper onto the lower edge of the pastry shell. Pour 1cm of baking beans into the paper and bake in the preheated oven for 20-25 minutes. The pastry edges should begin to brown, and crust under the parchment and should have lost its “raw” look. Remove the parchment and beans.

Immediately, sprinkle in all but 1 ½ tablespoons of the grated cheese. (The hot tin and hot pastry encourage faster cooking and lessen the chance of cracking the pastry shell).

Add 225ml of the quiche filling to the spinach filling to loosen it out and ladle into the pastry shell. Add the remaining of the grated cheese. Carefully ladle over the quiche filling, taking care not to reach the top of the shell. (If you cannot get all the filling in, pour the remaining bit in a small cup or Pyrex jug. Place the quiche in the hot oven. Carefully reach in and empty the filling into the quiche, again do not allow filling to spill over the edge.) 

Bake the filled quiche in the preheated oven for 25-40 minutes or until puffed and golden. Cool briefly on a wire rack before serving. Remove from the tin and eat at room temperature.

Lota Café Chicken Mokul

A Rajasthani dish but thank you to Lota Café in Delhi and Roots in Bandrol in the Himalayas for sharing the recipe.

Serves 6-8

Ingredients

100g cashew nuts

1 free-range organic chicken cut in smallish chunks (or use 3 drumsticks and 3 thighs)

100g olive oil (they use vegetable oil)

1 tsp cumin seeds

5 green cardamom pods (1g approx.), lightly crushed

3 cloves of garlic, grated

15g ginger, finely chopped or grated

200g red onions, finely chopped

4g ground turmeric

4g coriander seeds, freshly ground

8g masala spice (they use MDH chicken masala spice which is widely available)

2 tsp salt

150g homemade chicken stock

120g natural yoghurt

300g water

Garnish

coarsely chopped coriander leaves

Method

Cover the cashews with 225ml of water, and soak for 10 minutes. Whizz in a food processor until smooth.

Meanwhile, heat the oil in a heavy bottomed sauté pan over a medium heat, add the cumin and cracked cardamom pods, stir for a few seconds then add the garlic, ginger and finely chopped red onion. 

Stir and cook over a medium heat for 4-5 minutes, add the turmeric and continue to stir for 1-2 minutes, then add the freshly ground coriander and masala. Stir and cook for 30 seconds.

Add the chicken, sprinkle in salt, stir and coat in olive oil. Lower the heat and cook for about 10-15 minutes, then add the chicken stock, cashew milk and yoghurt. Stir and add 300g water. Bring to the boil and simmer for a further 15-20 minutes to reduce sauce to a light coating consistency, taste, correct seasoning. Sprinkle with fresh, coarsely chopped coriander leaves. 

Serve with rice or roti.

Pastel (Fried Pastry)

Pastéis are super delicious and best enjoyed while they’re still warm and crispy.  This recipe is adapted from Samba by Brazilian-born Giselle Makinde Pereira Goncalves, the latest in the Nine Bean Rows series published by Blasta Books (publication April 30^th).

Stuffed Pastéis can also be made using a slightly larger piece of dough (40g approx.) and filled with grated mozzarella; grated mozzarella; diced tomatoes and a pinch of oregano; cooked beef mince and grated cheese or shrimp….

Makes 50-60 approx.

Ingredients

690g flour

80g extra virgin olive oil

40g cachaça (Brazilian sugarcane liquor – available in good wine shops and some supermarkets) – we used honey

20g salt

280-300g water

Method

Put the flour into a large bowl. Make a well in the centre and add the extra virgin olive oil, honey and salt. Gradually add the water while using your fingertips to mix the liquid ingredients with the flour and knead briefly until it comes together. Cover the dough with a clean tea-towel and allow it to rest for 30 minutes.

Divide the dough into 20g-30g pieces. Using a rolling pin, roll and stretch out each portion into a paper-thin sheet (7.5-10cm). The thinner the dough, the crisper the pastel will be when fried. You may need a little extra flour for rolling.

Heat the oil in a deep-fryer to 180-190°C. If you don’t have a deep-fryer, fill a high-sided saucepan no more than half full of oil.

Line a baking tray with kitchen paper, then set a wire rack on top.

Working in batches, add a few pastéis and fry for 2-3 minutes, flipping them over halfway through the cooking time, until they are golden and crispy. Tip out onto the wire rack to let any excess oil drain off while you cook the rest.

Toss in caster sugar and eat while warm.

Have you got stuck in a bit of a rut with your cooking? – Same old, same old, week in, week out. Let’s face it, everyone’s super busy, so it’s easy to get stuck on ‘repeat’. So, how about being a little adventurous? This week I’ll share three super easy recipes from Suzie Lee’s new book ‘Simply Speedy Chinese.’

Ireland has had a long love affair with Chinese food, sweet and sour, stir-fry, Chow Mein, spring rolls…The first Irish-Chinese restaurant was opened in Belfast in the 1960’s, but there’s so much more. I have only been to China twice, once to Chengdu in 2017 for a Slow Food International Congress and to Beijing and Yanti in 2018 for the Gourmand World Cookbook Awards.

Every type of food was memorable – definitely one of the great cuisines of the world and enormously diverse, most of the Chinese food we have in Ireland is heavily influenced by Cantonese cuisine, but change is happening rapidly as the number of Chinese students particularly increases.

Dublin’s Chinatown centred around Parnell Street, Gardiner Street and Moore Street expands expeditiously with a hugely popular radio station, twice weekly on Ana Luna Radio Station and two Chinese newspapers for the growing Chinese community. 

Recent celebrations to welcome in the Chinese New Year of the Fire Horse, were bigger, better and more artistic, colourful and musical than ever before, with an increasing number of Irish joining in the fabulous celebrations of Chinese culture.

Chinese people love offal and know how to cook the less expensive cuts of meat to melting tenderness. Suzie Lee’s new book concentrated on yummy meals in 30 minutes or less. 

Sweet Chilli Prawns Skewers, stir-fried Choi Sum and chilli crisp green leaves can all be on the table in less than 10 minutes

Smashed Cucumber Salad. Hot Peanut Butter Noodles, Suzie’s Chicken and Pomelo Salad in less than 15 minutes.

Duck with Ginger and Spring Onions, XO Mussels, Pork and Bean Sprout Stir-Fry, Quick Dumplings two ways… 30 minutes or less and on and on.

Suzie is happy to use stock cubes and granules but do use homemade stock if you have it to hand. 

All the ingredients for the recipes are readily available in many local supermarkets across the country and in Asian shops.

Simply Speedy Chinese, Meals in 30 Minutes or Less by Suzie Lee is published by Quadrille.

Veggie Mince Lettuce Wraps

These lettuce wraps (called san choi bao in Chinese) can be made with any type of minced (ground) meat or soy mince (TVP), which I have used here. The soy mince soaks up all the different seasonings and can be cooked from frozen in minutes, which is a real time-saver. This dish is packed with flavour and is great for sharing. If you decide to use minced meat, there may be some extra liquid when cooking, in which case, add a little cornflour (cornstarch) paste towards the end of cooking.

Serves 4
(Prep: 5 minutes/Cook: 20 minutes)

Ingredients

1 tbsp vegetable oil

1 tbsp finely chopped or grated garlic

1 tbsp finely chopped or grated fresh

ginger root

1 onion, finely diced

1 celery stalk, finely diced

1 carrot, peeled and finely diced

handful of mushrooms of your choice, finely diced

300g frozen soy mince (TVP) or minced (ground) meat (chicken, beef, pork or turkey)

2 tbsp light soy sauce

1 tbsp dark soy sauce

1 tbsp vegetarian oyster sauce (or regular oyster sauce)

1 tbsp Shaoxing wine

1 tsp sesame oil

fine sea salt and ground white pepper

To Serve

sliced chillies

sliced spring onions (scallions)

1 large gem lettuce or small iceberg lettuce, leaves separated

Method

Heat the vegetable oil in a wok or frying pan over a high heat and fry the garlic and ginger for about 2 minutes until fragrant.

Add the onion, celery, carrot and mushrooms and cook for about 10 minutes until softened.

Add the soy mince (or your meat of choice) and cook for about 2 minutes.

Now add the light and dark soy sauces, oyster sauce, Shaoxing wine and sesame oil and cook for a further 5 minutes. Taste and adjust the seasoning with salt and white pepper.

Serve garnished with chillies and spring onions, piled into lettuce leaves.

Quick Dumplings

My children are addicted to dumplings in all their forms, and this is the quickest way I know to make them. Using a food processor to blend the ingredients helps to speed things up. You can make either gyozas or wontons and boiling them is much quicker than frying or deep-frying, but you can also pop them in an air fryer.

Makes 16-20 dumplings
(Prep: 10 minutes/Cook: up to 15 minutes)

Ingredients

150g chicken breast (about 1 breast)

50g mushrooms (white, chestnut/cremini or shiitake)

1 spring onion (scallion), roughly chopped

1 heaped tsp cornflour (cornstarch), plus extra for dusting if you are frying the dumplings

1 tsp sesame oil

½ tsp garlic powder

1 tsp dark soy sauce

¼ tsp fine sea salt

good pinch of ground white pepper

16-20 gyoza or wonton wrappers

1 tbsp vegetable oil (optional, if frying)

dipping sauce of your choice, to serve (optional)

Method

Put all the ingredients except the wrappers (and the vegetable oil and dipping sauce) in a food processor and blend for about 1 minute until a rough paste forms.

To make the dumplings, spoon about a teaspoon of filling into the middle of each wrapper, then dab water around the edge of the wrapper. Fold the wrapper around the filling in whatever shape you would like (just make sure the filling is sealed in well). I just gather all the edges and pinch them together in the middle to make an easy wonton.

To fry gyozas, dust the bottom of each one with cornflour. Heat 1 tablespoon of oil in a frying pan over a medium heat and fry the dumplings on one side for 2-3 minutes until lightly golden on the bottom.

Add 100 ml water, cover and steam-cook for 8-10 minutes until the water evaporates and the gyozas are cooked through.

To boil gyozas or wontons, half-fill a saucepan with water and bring to the boil. Drop in the gyozas or wontons and boil for 3-5 minutes until cooked through.

To deep-fry wontons, pour vegetable oil into a small, heavy-duty saucepan over a high heat to a depth of 5 cm. Test if the oil is ready by lowering the handle of a wooden spoon into it. If bubbles fizz around the handle, you are ready to deep-fry.

Carefully lower 5-6 wontons into the pan at a time. Once they float to the top and are golden, they are ready. Take the wontons out of the pan and drain on some paper towel.

Eat the dumplings as they are or with a dipping sauce of your choice, such as soy sauce, black vinegar or chilli crisp oil.

Chinese Pulled Chicken

We love pulled pork and pulled beef in my house, but I wanted a change and had chicken in the refrigerator, so I thought I could try a really quick version with that instead. Not only does chicken cook quickly but it also shreds more easily if poached than both pork and beef. Serve with salad, rice or noodles and some steamed veggies. It’s great for packed lunches, too.

Serves 2
(Prep: 5 minutes/Cook: 20 minutes)

Ingredients

1 tsp vegetable oil

2 tsp grated garlic

2 tsp grated fresh ginger root

2 tbsp dark soy sauce

½ tsp chicken stock powder

pinch of ground white pepper

2 chicken breasts (about 400g)

200ml water

1 tbsp cornflour (cornstarch) mixed with 2 tbsp water to make a paste

1 tsp sesame oil

To Serve

toasted sesame seeds

sliced spring onions (scallions)

sliced red chillies

Method

Heat the vegetable oil in a small saucepan over a high heat and fry the garlic and ginger for a couple of minutes until fragrant.

Add the soy sauce, chicken stock powder and white pepper, then add the chicken breasts and flip them around to coat thoroughly in the seasonings.

Add the water, cover and reduce the heat to medium. Simmer for 10 minutes, then flip the breasts and cook for a further 10 minutes before removing from the heat.

Once cooked, remove the chicken from the pan and use two forks to shred the meat.

Add the cornflour paste to the cooking liquid in the pan and stir it through, then bring to the boil and cook until the sauce thickens.

Toss the chicken through the sauce until it is well coated, then drizzle in the sesame oil.

Serve sprinkled with sesame seeds, spring onions and chillies.

At last, there’s more conversation around menopause, a subject that was almost taboo to talk about some years ago Of course it’s a natural part of aging, a natural transition, us women go through as female hormones, oestrogen and progesterone, begin to decrease, typically between the ages of 45 and 55 but could be earlier or later. Some fortunate women sail through it with a few symptoms, others suffer horribly. At last, there is a growing body of research and a deeper understanding of menopause. Medical colleges are beginning to equip their students with more data on the subject, like the connection between food and menopause that was hitherto rarely or barely mentioned in the 8 years plus medical training. One only has to experience hospital or Care Home food, with a few rare exceptions to realise that the connection between the type of food we eat, and our well-being is poorly understood or worse still conveniently ignored to save money. Do we have the data on food waste in hospitals which I’ve been told over and over again is truly shocking…Surely it would make more sense to invest more on good nutritious ingredients that would be relished and enjoyed and beneficial to health.

Back to menopause, I doubt if anyone has all the answers yet, but I certainly feel that eating real food, keeping well away from ultra-processed foods, can make a mighty difference. Another consideration which apparently makes quite the difference is to eliminate all toxins, ‘fresh air’ sprays, chemicals, antibacterial wipes from your homes and dare I say most skin creams. Think about the make-up and cream you use, if you wouldn’t eat it, don’t use it. Oops, that may all come as a big ask but if you are feeling ghastly, certainly could be worth trying. People are familiar with many of the better known symptoms – hot flushes, night sweats, sleeping difficulties, anxiety, low mood, brain fog, reduced libido, but aching joints and generally feeling ratty and short tempered are definitely common symptoms also.

Nutrient-dense food is unlikely to prevent or cure all symptoms, but it will undoubtedly help, so to give yourself the best chance, why not decide to start a food and drink diary – even for a week, be prepared for a shock, you may be surprised to discover what you are actually consuming. But feeling rotten can be quite the incentive to make some changes. Ditch the sliced pan, cheap wine and ultra-processed foods. Let’s start at breakfast, treat yourself to a glass of freshly squeezed orange juice every morning. Seek out organic fruit, yes, I know it’ll cost more but remember how much those supplements cost. A bowl of Macroom oatmeal porridge or make a little Ballymaloe muesli, a riff on Bircher muesli which takes minutes to make. There are organic blueberries available at present, they’d be good to crush into the soaked oatmeal, you’ll need lots of protein, a couple of free-range organic eggs, any way you fancy – poached, scrambled, an omelette, add a sprinkle of cheese, a few freshly chopped herbs and maybe a little dried or fresh turmeric – and a slice of real sourdough toast slathered with raw butter. After a breakfast like that, you are unlikely to reach for a snack at eleven – why not have a go and see how you feel!

There are lots of good things that are super easy – a little loaf of soda bread, a few scones every day. A loaf will be out of the oven in 35 minutes, scones 10-15. Really good natural yoghurt is essential in my book (see my Examiner column Reboot the System – 24^th February 2024), avoid virtually all supermarket yoghurt, make your own from whole milk, better still, raw organic milk if you can get it – again super easy.

Good eggs, meat and fresh fish in any form. The latter is the biggest challenge, learn how to recognize really fresh fish (it doesn’t smell in the least fishy). Because fish is becoming scarcer, many boats have to be at sea for 5-6 days at a time, then the catch is landed, it’s a bonus if you can get the latest catch so ask when it was caught, not when it was landed….Familiarize yourself and eat with the seasons when food – vegetables, fruits and herbs are freshest, best and least expensive – feeling better already?

Ballymaloe Muesli

This is right up there with porridge as the best and most nourishing breakfast ever. It’s also super delicious, can be made in minutes, even when you are semi-comatose in the morning. Choose ripe organic eating apples for this recipe. The proportion of apple to oatmeal should be equal, taste and adjust as you wish. During the soft fruit season, we crush strawberries, raspberries, loganberries or tayberries and fold into the oatmeal instead of apples. A few blackberries are delicious added to the muesli in Autumn. Coarsely chopped pistachios or hazelnuts are also delicious sprinkled over the top.  

Serves 4

Ingredients

3 heaped tbsp organic rolled oatmeal

110g dessert apples, preferably Worcester Pearmain or Cox’s Orange Pippin

approx. 1 tsp honey, depending on the tartness of the fruit

single cream and soft brown sugar, to serve

Method

Measure out 6 tablespoons of water into a bowl and sprinkle the oatmeal on top.  Let the oatmeal soak up the water while you grate the apple. A stainless-steel grater is best for this job; use the largest side and grate the apple coarsely, skin and all. I grate through the core but watch your fingers when you are coming close to the end. Pick out the dark pips and discard.

Stir the honey into the oatmeal and then stir in the grated apple, taste and add a little more honey if necessary. This will depend on how much you heaped up the spoon earlier on and how sweet the fruit is. Serve with cream and soft brown sugar.

Mary Jo’s Greek Style Beans 

Beans are a super source of inexpensive protein. We cook this in the cool oven of the Aga overnight but of course it can be cooked in an oven at 150°C for 2-3 hours). It keeps in a fridge for several days and reheats deliciously.

Serves 8-10

Ingredients

225g giant lima or butter beans soaked overnight, drained and cooked until tender adding ¾ tbsp of olive oil to the water*

3 tbsp olive oil

110g chopped onion

25g small dice celery

2 large garlic cloves, chopped

1 tsp dry oregano or 1 tsp fresh marjoram

1 tsp ground coriander 

⅓ – ½ tsp crushed chilli flakes

400g tin or 450g tomatoes, crushed

1 tsp honey

salt and freshly ground pepper

juice of ½ lemon

*Save the cooked beans and their cooking water.

Method

Heat 3 tablespoons of olive oil in a casserole and sauté the onion and celery until tender. Add the garlic, oregano (or marjoram), coriander, chilli flakes and stir until fragrant.  Add the crushed tomatoes, honey, salt and pepper. Bring the sauce to a simmer and stir in the drained cooked beans. Simmer uncovered on the stove top until beginning to thicken. Add the cooking liquid as needed (you should end up using it all). When you have a soupy mixture, the beans may go in the oven. 

The beans may cook for 2-3 hours in a 150°C/Gas Mark 2 oven. They should be very tender and glazed. Drizzle with remaining olive oil and fresh lemon juice before serving.

Carrageen Moss Pudding with Sweet Geranium

Many people have less than fond memories of Carrageen Moss, partly because so many recipes call for far too much carrageen. It is a very strong natural gelatine, so the trick is to use little enough. Because it is so light it is difficult to weigh, we use just enough to fit into my closed fist, a scant 7g. 

This recipe given to me by Myrtle Allen is by far the most delicious I know. Nowadays more chefs are using carrageen, but often they add stronger flavours such as treacle or rosewater, which tend to mask the delicate flavour of the carrageen itself. Carrageen Moss is served on the dessert trolley at Ballymaloe House every single evening, celebrating our traditional food culture.

Serves 6-8

Ingredients

7g cleaned, well dried carrageen moss (1 semi-closed fistful)

900ml whole (full fat) milk (we use our own Jersey milk)

8 medium leaves of sweet geranium (Pelargonium graveolens)

1 large egg, preferably free-range

1 tbsp caster sugar

To Serve

softly whipped cream and soft brown sugar

Method

Soak the carrageen in tepid water for 10 minutes. Strain off the water and put the carrageen and sweet geranium into a saucepan with the milk. Bring to the boil and simmer very gently with the lid on for 20 minutes. At that point, and not before, separate the egg and put the yolk into a bowl. Add the sugar and whisk together for a few seconds. Pour the milk, carrageen and sweet geranium through a strainer onto the egg yolk mixture, whisking all the time. The carrageen will now be swollen and exuding jelly. Rub most of this jelly through the strainer and beat it into the liquid. Test for a set on a cold saucer: put it in the fridge and it should set in a couple of minutes. Rub a little more jelly through the strainer if necessary. Whisk the egg white until stiff peaks form and fold it in gently; it will rise to make a fluffy top. Leave to cool. Refrigerate

Serve chilled with softly whipped cream and soft brown sugar.

Just as I was about to start my Easter column, I spotted this written by Myrtle Allen in the 1970s. ‘ A late Easter, with warm, damp weather, upset the man who made our Easter eggs, as the chocolate was slow to set in the moulds. An early Easter made my butcher angry. The churches really ought to get together and do something about it, he stormed. This was the proper purpose of ecumenism. He was never known to kill a lamb before Easter, no matter how late it was. If the lamb is ready before my mint bed, it upsets me. It is essential to have one small secret patch in a sheltered place, unknown to friends, relations and kitchen staff.’ from Myrtle Allen’s The Ballymaloe Cookbook Published 1977 and still in print 49 years later. The butcher referred to was the legendary Michael Cuddigan from Cloyne who supplied Ballymaloe House with exceptional meat for decades.

If you perchance you have the first edition of the Ballymaloe Cookbook, treasure it, it’s even more valuable now as a collector’s item. 

Well, Happy Easter to each and every one and in the midst of all the jollity, choccie bunnies, fluffy chicks and Easter egg hunts, it’s worth remembering the religious significance and what we are celebrating. Easter is all about rebirth and fresh hope for the future. Something we desperately need in the midst of these extraordinary times.

Time to give thanks for so many blessings and to get together with family and friends for an Easter Sunday lunch.

Some of you will know that our clever hens lay eggs with the grandchildren’s names on them for Easter Sunday and John makes sure we’ve got a batch of chicks hatched out in time for the celebration. All fun and wonderful but the ‘elephant in the room’ this year is the price of chocolate which has skyrocketed during the past year. So, in order to keep prices relatively low, most chocolate companies have opted to dumb down the quality. 

The increase in prices was driven by weather events in West Africa that resulted in cocoa shortages. The crops are hopefully now recovering, but this won’t be reflected in prices on the supermarket shelves anytime soon.

So, if you still haven’t purchased your Easter egg, seek out a chocolate egg from one of the artisan Irish chocolatiers who are committed to keeping quality. It’s infinitely more expensive than the supermarkets deal but maybe decide to share and eat it slowly. Better still, if you can make time, plan a fun Easter egg session. Buy a stack of really good Callebaut or Valrhona chocolate and a few moulds, melt gently and have an egg making session with the kids and their friends. Be prepared for a mess but they will always remember the fun of Easter 2026!

We love Easter Sunday lunch. It has to be lamb. This year, my fresh mint patch is slow to recover after the Winter weather, but wild garlic is leaping out of the ground so I’m going to serve my roast shoulder of spring lamb with wild garlic mayo, or I might just chop some wild garlic into the gravy instead.

As far as vegetables are concerned, we are still in the midst of the Hungry Gap stranded between the end of the Winter and the first of the summer vegetables, but we’ve got sea kale that I love to serve on toast with hollandaise sauce as a starter.

We’ve still got some winter kale, spinach, Swiss chard but they are now beginning to sprout greens as they start to flower, the greens are tender and delicious – use every scrap…purple sprouting broccoli is a brilliant super delicious ‘hungry gap’ crop worth planting every year.

The leeks too are coming to an end, but I’ve been enjoying mixing them with other vegetables to make a side dish. 

Try this version where I add peas to the leeks, it’s got a delicious fresh spring like vibe, everyone loves it and it will also be delicious with the first of the young leeks and fresh peas in Summer.

For dessert, it has to be a garden rhubarb tart, made with freshly pickled garden rhubarb, or it could even be a rhubarb crumble, but rhubarb it has to be…the perennial that more than any other ‘fruit’, keeps on giving and signifies rebirth every year. 

Happy Easter once again. 

Slow Roast Shoulder of Spring Lamb with Wild Garlic Aioli

Forget perfect slices, cook to melting tenderness and just lift little chunks off the bone with tongs. The wild garlic aioli makes a tempting change from mint sauce.

Serves 8-10

Ingredients

1 whole shoulder of Spring lamb on the bone, weighing approximately 3.6kg

Maldon sea salt and freshly ground pepper

Wild Garlic Aioli

2 egg yolks, preferably free range

¼ tsp salt

pinch of English mustard or ¼ tsp French mustard

1 dsp white wine vinegar

225ml oil – We use 175ml sunflower oil and 50ml olive oil, alternatively use 7/1

1-4 cloves of garlic, depending on size

2 tsp chopped parsley

2 tsp chopped wild garlic leaves (Allium ursinum)

4 -6 tbsp lamb cooking juices

Preheat the oven to 180°C/Gas Mark 4.

Method

Place the lamb shoulder in a wide roasting tin or oven tray with the skin side up. Score the skin to encourage the fat to run out during the cooking and to crisp up the skin. Season with sea salt and freshly cracked pepper. Place in a roasting tin, transfer to the oven and roast for 30 minutes before turning the temperature down to 160°C/Gas Mark 3 for a further 2 ½ to 3 hours or until the meat is soft and succulent and will lift off the bones.

Meanwhile, make the aioli.

Note:  the crushed garlic may be mixed into the mayonnaise for the aioli, but this sauce cannot be finished until we have the juices from the cooked lamb.

Put the egg yolks into a bowl with the crushed garlic, mustard, salt and the white wine vinegar (keep the whites to make meringues). Put the oil into a measure. Take a whisk in one hand and the oil in the other and drip the oil onto the egg yolks, drop by drop whisking at the same time. Within a minute you will notice that the mixture is beginning to thicken. When this happens, you can add the oil a little faster, but don’t get too cheeky or it will suddenly curdle because the egg yolks can only absorb the oil at a certain pace. Taste and add a little more seasoning and a touch more vinegar if necessary.

To test if the lamb is cooked to a melting tenderness, pull the shank bone and it and some of the meat should come away easily from the bone.

When the lamb is cooked, remove from the oven. There will be plenty of fatty cooking juices. Strain these through a sieve into a bowl. Keep the lamb warm in the oven with the temperature reduced to 100°C/Gas Mark ¼.

When the fat has risen to the surface of the lamb cooking juices, skim carefully and thoroughly with a spoon. Bring the remaining juices to a simmer and taste and correct seasoning.

Thin out the garlic mayonnaise with 4-6 tablespoons of the degreased juice to achieve a consistency similar to softly whipped cream or in other words the mayonnaise should now just lightly coat the back of a spoon. Taste and correct the seasoning. 

To serve the lamb, a tongs or serving fork and spoon are the best implements to remove the meat from the bones.  Prise largish pieces off the bones and serve on hot plates with some of the hot cooking juices, Wild Garlic Aioli and lots of crusty roast potatoes.

Melted Leeks with Peas

Two vegetables in one, fresh tasting and delicious – my garden peas are months off being ready to harvest so I use frozen peas here with delicious results.

Serves 8-10

Ingredients

900g leeks (once prepared)

50g butter

2 tbsp water if necessary

salt and freshly ground pepper

300g frozen peas

Method

Cut off the dark green leaves from the top of the leeks (keep for soup).   Slit the leeks about halfway down the centre and wash well under cold running water.   Slice into roughly 10mm rounds.   Season with salt and freshly ground pepper.    Melt the butter in a heavy casserole; when it foams, add the sliced leeks and toss gently to coat.   Cover with a paper lid and a close-fitting lid.   Reduce the heat and cook very gently for 8-14 minutes approx., or until tender (it will depend on how old the leeks are).   Check and stir every now and then. Add the frozen peas and continue to cook for 1-2 minutes. Turn off the heat and allow to continue to cook in the heat for a couple of minutes until the peas are tender. Serve in a warm dish – it should be juicy. 

Note: The pot of leeks may be cooked in the oven at 160°C/Gas Mark 3 if that is more convenient.

Easter Garden Rhubarb Pie

This gem of a recipe was passed on to me by my mother who was famous for her pies – it’s a real keeper. The pastry is made by the creaming method so people who are convinced that they suffer from ‘hot hands’ don’t have to worry about rubbing in the butter. This pastry can be made a day before. Cover and keep in the fridge.

It’s vital to add enough sugar, it may be counter intuitive, but rhubarb takes a lot of sugar to balance the acid for a delicious tart, don’t skimp…Use green gooseberries, apples, plums, damsons etc. in season.

Serves 8-12

Ingredients

Pastry

225g soft butter

50g caster sugar

2 eggs, preferably free range

350g white flour, preferably unbleached

Filling

900g sliced red garden rhubarb (about 1cm thick) (not forced) 

370g sugar

egg wash-made with a little beaten egg, a dash of milk and a pinch of salt

caster sugar for sprinkling

To Serve

softly whipped cream

soft brown sugar

1 x 18cm x 30.5cm x 2.5cm deep rectangular tin

or 1 x 23cm x 4cm deep round tin

Method

Preheat the oven to 180°C/Gas Mark 4.

First make the pastry.

Cream the butter and sugar together by hand or in a food mixer (no need to over cream). Add the eggs one by one and beat for several minutes. Reduce speed to minimum and mix in the flour slowly. Turn out onto a piece of floured greaseproof paper, flatten into a round wrap and pop into the fridge. This pastry needs to be chilled for at least 2 hours otherwise it is difficult to handle.

To make the tart

Roll out the pastry 3mm thick approx. and use about two-thirds of it to line a suitable tin. Place the sliced rhubarb into the tart, sprinkle with sugar. Cover with a lid of pastry, seal edges, decorate with pastry leaves, egg wash and bake in the preheated oven until the rhubarb is tender, approx. 45 minutes to 1 hour.

When cooked cut into squares or slices, sprinkle lightly with caster sugar. Serve with softly whipped cream and soft dark brown sugar – Devine!

Back from India, we fortunately managed to miss a lot of that dreadful weather. We stayed at our beloved Ahilya Fort, overlooking the Narmada River in the small rural town of Maheshwar in Madhya Pradesh.
It’s right out in the country, almost 2 ½ hours by car from Indore.
Our bedroom overlooked the ghats on the river’s edge where there is constant activity from pre-dawn to dusk and beyond.
I watched the sunrise from the balcony, then the morning ritual of local women chatting while they wash their clothes in the river, over 150 feet below. Close by on the gurunj, (jetties) people are earnestly performing morning pujas and floating little diyas down the river to ask for blessings for loved ones.
Sounds of fervent devotion waft out from the local temples, a group of boys are swimming in what must be properly chilly waters, a cow and a few goats wander nonchalantly along the ghats with a distinct air of entitlement, bells are tinkling.
Children are excitedly feeding the ravenous fish, one gets special blessings for feeding the river fish. Pilgrims come from far and wide, some over 700km, having circumambulated the river to worship in this holy place to give thanks to the Narmada for their life or to scatter ashes of loved ones in the sacred river. Unlike Varanasi, both the ghats and the river are clean and the ghats are swept regularly with brooms made of twigs.
Little stalls sell handmade snacks, plantain fritters and freshly pressed sugarcane juice. Local peddler’s sell colourful beads, necklaces and bangles to the growing number of visitors.
Gaily coloured boats criss-cross the river to Naratodi, a sleepy little village on the opposite bank of the river.
Poja is a favourite breakfast cereal in India, everyone seems to have a different recipe. Ahilya Fort serves a delicious version, but I also love the time honoured poha that Devram makes on his stall on the side of the road in Nartodi in a beloved black kari over a charcoal fire in a clay burner.
This year he greeted me like a long lost friend, I think he must have remembered my red sun hat from last year. He’s now somewhat of a hero in the village because the word has gotten around that the Irish lady came back once again for more of his poha…He still serves it in little squares of newspaper with a little tin spoon kept specially for visitors. A little way along the road, Nanda Kewat is making kachori from scratch. I accidentally caught a wonderful cooking class right there by the roadside overlooking the river. The dough was made from local flour, salt and water, a little oil was kneaded in and left to rest in a well-practiced routine. The spicy, super tasty filling was ready, he gave me a taste, then deftly portioned the silky dough, no need for a scale. He flattened and filled each one with easy, well-practised precision.
Meanwhile, the oil was heating in a crusty black iron kari over a single gas jet on a tiny brazier. With his thumb, he made a saucer-like dent in each kachori. Then tucked them side by side into the deep fry. They took ages to cook, over five minutes on one side. It was mesmerising to watch, after about five minutes, each one started to puff up into a ball. He flipped them over, they cooked until crisp and golden on both sides, lifted them out of the oil with a handmade perforated scoop, then drained and sold them while still hot to a queue of waiting locals.
I managed to get one – you can’t imagine how delicious it was.
I love the variety of street food in India. There’s an altogether different choice at midday and after sunset.
In the evening at the end of the street below Ahilya Fort, there’s a Pani Puri stall, then samosas, pakoras and saffron milk, all gastronomic delights, maybe that’s a bit strong but for me, they are the authentic taste of India.
Tourists are often scared to eat street food but for me, that’s where one gets the real taste of a country.
The menu changes every day here at Ahilya Fort for both lunch and dinner, much of the food comes from the organic gardens and farm, the village and the local area.
Every evening we have a new food adventure with a thali of dishes – a variety of little bowls of deliciousness. Try these Indian street foods at home in your own kitchen.

Ahilya Fort’s Crispy Kachori

These kachori are served in little squares of newspaper and cost just a few rupees at a stall on the side of the streets.

Always fry the kachori on a low-medium heat to ensure they are cooked through and crispy.

Adding gram (chickpea) flour to the stuffing helps bind the kachori well.

Makes 10

Ingredients

Dough

300g plain flour

2 tbsp ghee

1 tbsp vegetable oil

½ tsp salt

Filling

200g mung beans

1 tsp cumin seeds

2 tsp fennel seeds

1 tsp coriander seeds

2 green chillies, 1 slit lengthways and 1 finely chopped

1 tbsp vegetable oil

1 tbsp ghee

4 tbsp gram flour (chickpea flour)

1-2 tbsp grated ginger

½ tsp ground turmeric

¼ tsp asafoetida

1 ½ tsp salt

1 tsp sugar

1 tsp garam masala

oil for frying

Method

The day before.

Cover the mung beans in cold water and allow to soak overnight.

Next day.

To make the dough.

Put the flour and salt into a bowl. Add the ghee and oil and a small amount of lukewarm water. Keep mixing and gradually add up to 150ml water, until a soft dough forms with no flour remaining on your hands. Knead the dough on a clean surface. Make into a ball, pop into a bowl, cover with a damp tea-towel and allow to rest for 1 hour approx. in a warm place.

Meanwhile, make the filling.

Toast the cumin seeds, 1 tsp of the fennel seeds and coriander seeds in a small dry frying pan for 3-4 minutes. Allow to cool, then grind the whole spices to a fine powder using a coffee or spice grinder and set aside.

Put the soaked and drained mung beans, the slit green chilli and 8 tbsp of water in a food processor. Blitz to make a slightly coarse paste.

Heat the oil and ghee in a frying pan over a medium heat, add the remaining 1 tsp fennel seeds and cook for 1 minute until it smells aromatic. Stir in the gram flour – it needs to be roasted to get rid of the raw smell. Cook on a low heat for 5 minutes, stirring constantly to ensure it doesn’t burn. Stir in the bean mixture and mix well to ensure there are no lumps. Tip in the ginger, chopped green chilli, turmeric, asafoetida, salt, sugar and 1 tsp of the spice powder you prepared earlier and the garam masala. Mix well and cook for 2-3 minutes until the water has evaporated. The bean filling should be dry and thick. Remove from the heat and allow to cool.

To make the kachori.

Divide the rested dough into 10 equal portions and roll each one into a ball. Take a ball of dough and flatten with both palms into a flat circle, then by pressing your thumb against the ends, to make it thinner and larger in size. Put in the cup of your palm, so the dough takes that shape and fill with 1 tbsp of the cooked filling. Bring the sides of the dough to the centre and pinch the ends to seal (try not to pinch too much of the dough together or that end will be too doughy). Repeat the process for 10 portions.

Heat a wok half-filled with oil over a high heat and bring to 180°C or until a piece of the dough dropped in the oil sizzles immediately. Reduce the temperature a little and carefully lower in a few of the kachori and continue to cook in batches for 4-5 minutes each until golden. Remove using a slotted spoon and put on a plate lined with kitchen paper to drain.

Serve immediately with your choice of chutney.

When served on the street, they are sold in little squares of newspaper.

Bread Omelette or Bengali Bombay Toast

A savoury version of eggy bread.

Serves 1

Ingredients

1 slice of white bread

1 tbsp sunflower oil (they use groundnut oil in India)

1 egg

1-2 tbsp finely chopped red onion (20g)

¼ tsp chopped chilli

1 tsp chopped fresh coriander leaves

salt and freshly ground black pepper

¼ tsp of turmeric, optional

Method

Heat a frying pan.

Whisk the egg well, add the chopped red onion, chilli and coriander leaves. Season with salt and freshly ground black pepper and turmeric if using. Whisk again to combine.

Dip both sides of a slice of bread in the egg mixture until well soaked. Cook on a smoking hot pan, first on one side, then the other until golden. Cut in quarters, sprinkle with some rock salt and freshly ground black pepper. Wrap in newspaper, charge 10 rupees…next please – so good and filling!

Saffron Milk (Kesar Milk)

In the evening, huge kari full of saffron coloured kesar, bubble away on little gas braziers. It has a fluffy crust on top, dotted with strands of saffron. It’s served in glasses, always with a portion of the crust on top – a comforting evening drink and soporific.

Serves 1

Ingredients

4-6 strands top quality saffron but could be 12-15 strands depending on the quality

1 tbsp of milk

225ml whole milk

1-2 tsp sugar depending on how sweet you like it

pinch of cardamom (¼ tsp) (8-10 pods crushed)

slivered almonds and pistachios (optional)

Method

Soak the saffron in 1 tbsp of warm milk for 8-10 minutes to release the colour and aroma.

Bring the remaining milk to the boil, add every drop of the saffron milk, sugar and cardamom.

Simmer for 3-5 minutes so it thickens slightly.

Serve warm with a little sprinkle of finely flaked almonds and chopped pistachios.

Doesn’t that book title fill you with warm expectation and joy. Thoughts of coming home weary and stressed to the smell of freshly made bread or a bubbly stew to lift your spirits. Orla Drumgoole is a proud Irish mammy who loves to cook and bake and feed her family and her many friends. Food is her love language, and she will know that the way to everyone’s heart is through their tummies. Since she started to share her home cooked recipes for comforting bakes and home cooked recipes on Instagram in February 2021, she has gathered a devoted fanbase. Orla has a particular gift for making things simple, inspiring even her most intrepid followers to ‘have a go’ at home themselves. Orla is particularly famous for her many riffs on traybakes, scones and bread, many of which have made her into a viral sensation. It’s not just baking though, lots of easy dinner ideas – twelve ways with chicken, eight ways with beef, six ways with pork…Orla loves feeding people. She herself comes from a large family so lots of family get-togethers – I particularly love the chapter entitled ‘The Gathering’ with not just lots of suggestions for delicious dishes to feed a crowd but practical tips of how to plan ahead, delegate, make space for long table dinners, zhuzh up the garage…. Lots of recipes for bites, buffets, starters and the all-important desserts. Check out The Irish Mammy Cooks Cookbook published by Gill Books – you’ll understand why Orla has such a following.

*All recipes from The Irish Mammy Cooks Cookbook by Orla Drumgoole, published by Gill Books

Marriage-Maker Peanut Pork 

‘There’s a story behind this recipe. When Paddy and I were dating, we had a row and he was leaving for good. As he was about to go, I told him that, as I had dinner made, he was welcome to eat it before he left. He asked what it was. Peanut pork. He did not hesitate – down he sat, and the rest, as they say, is history. There you have it. 

This is a marriage maker! It is basically a satay, and the inspiration came from an Australian Good Housekeeping magazine recipe about 30 years ago. We still eat this every couple of weeks.’ 

Serves 6 

Ingredients

1 tbsp rapeseed oil 

2 large onions, cut into small dice 

8 celery sticks, cut into small dice 

3 cloves garlic, grated 

1 tbsp vegetable bouillon 

salt and pepper, to taste 

1kg pork fillet or loin chops with visible fat removed, cut into bite-sized pieces 

150g peanut butter 

50g honey 

4 tbsp mild curry powder 

2 red peppers, cut into small dice 

100ml cream (optional) 

Method

Heat the oil in the pot then add the onion and celery and fry off for 10 minutes. Add the garlic 8 minutes in so it doesn’t burn. 

Add the bouillon, salt and pepper and enough water to cover the vegetables. 

Add the pork, then cook on a low simmer for 10 minutes or until the meat looks almost cooked. 

Add the peanut butter, honey and curry powder and leave to cook on a low heat for 20 minutes, stirring occasionally so it doesn’t stick to the base. Add the peppers. You might need to add a little more water if the sauce becomes too thick. 

Add the cream, if using, and allow to heat again to just below simmer point before serving with noodles or rice. This also freezes perfectly. 

Parmesan-Crusted Chicken 

‘This is a tasty cheesy chicken and lovely served over some savoury rice, in a burger bun with fries, or with pasta and some of my veg-loaded sauce.

These can be cooked in the oven or an air fryer, but I like them best from the oven. Take your time when dipping the chicken to ensure a full coating of each layer.’ 

Serves 6 

Ingredients

6 chicken fillets 

50g cornflour, seasoned well 

with salt and pepper 

100g breadcrumbs 

3 eggs 

60g grated Parmesan 

spray oil 

Method

Preheat the oven to 180°C fan. Line an oven tray with parchment paper. 

I usually bash my chicken fillets to tenderise them. Place the fillets between two pieces of parchment paper and bash it with a rolling pin. For 6 breasts, tenderise in two batches. 

Place the seasoned cornflour and the breadcrumbs on two separate large plates. 

Mix the egg and Parmesan together well in a shallow bowl. 

To assemble, dip each fillet in cornflour, then the egg mix, followed by the breadcrumbs. Spray the parchment paper with oil, then lay the chicken down and spray on top. Cook for 25-30 minutes and serve how you like (see recipe introduction). This can also be cooked in the air fryer at 180°C for 20-25 minutes, turning halfway through. 

These can be frozen after cooking and cooling. 

Savoury Rice 

‘This is a cheeky little number that is surprisingly tasty and filling. It’s perfect for those days when you are too tired to make a hearty meal and want something on the table in 20 minutes. Feel free to change the vegetables used here and to add extras if you fancy. Some chickpeas thrown in for the last few minutes would be tasty.’ 

Serves 6 

Ingredients

2 tbsp olive oil 

1 large onion, diced finely 

3 carrots, diced finely 

2 cloves garlic 

400g easy cook rice 

1 tsp vegetable bouillon 

1 tsp turmeric 

1 tsp ground coriander 

1 tsp ground cumin 

1 tsp smoked paprika 

150g petit pois 

salt and pepper 

juice of ½ a lime 

Method

Heat the oil in a large frying pan. Add the onion and carrots, then grate in the garlic. Allow to cook for about 10 minutes over a medium heat. 

Add the rice and dry fry until it turns glassy and starts to almost take a bit of colour. Add the bouillon and spices and fry for 1 more minute. 

Now add boiling water, not enough to cover the rice, but enough to stop it from sticking to the bottom of the pan. Cook on a medium heat, allowing the mix to bubble. 

When the water is almost gone, add some more water again, as before. This needs to be stirred often while cooking, so stay nearby. Once you can see that the rice is cooked, or it tastes done, add the peas and turn down the heat. Finally, add salt and pepper to taste and the lime juice. 

Serve on its own, or with more vegetables. 

Apple and Custard Traybake 

We’ve just had the first of the new seasons’ rhubarb from the garden – also delicious in this recipe.

‘This is easily the most popular video I ever posted on Instagram. It is nostalgia in a mouthful. We grew up on Bird’s Custard. It was dolloped onto every dessert we ate: tart, semolina, trifle, sponge. By the power of the world wide web, you can now source this delight all over the world. 

The idea for this bake actually woke me in the middle of the night, and I had to try it. So far it has been watched by 5 million people and saved by 70,000 – so it’s a keeper for sure. We serve it warm with – you’ve guessed it – dollops of custard, but it is equally lovely cold as a slice with a cup of tea. This can also be made with four mashed bananas or 300g finely sliced rhubarb in place of the apple.’ 

Serves 15-20 

Ingredients

3 large cooking apples, peeled and sliced – about 400g 

2 tbsp caster sugar 

200g self-raising flour 

80g Bird’s Custard Powder 

120g icing sugar 

1 tsp baking powder 

1 tbsp vanilla extract 

5 eggs 

200g very soft butter 

Method

Place the sliced apples, caster sugar and 1 tablespoon of water in a saucepan over a medium heat. Cook for about 10 minutes, stirring regularly, till the apples have softened but still have a bit of bite to them. (If you don’t have cooking apples, you can use sharp eating apples instead – Granny Smith or Pink Lady would be good – just leave out the sugar.) Leave to cool completely. 

Preheat your oven to 160°C fan.

Line a 25 x 35cm tray with parchment paper. 

Add the flour, custard powder, icing sugar and baking powder to a large mixing bowl and stir. Then add the apple, vanilla, eggs and butter. Use a wooden spoon or a fork and mix thoroughly so there are no lumps.  

Pour into a parchment-lined tray and bake for about 30 minutes. Stick a skewer in and if it comes out clean, you will know it’s done.  

Best enjoyed warm with custard, but equally lovely on its own. 

Here comes Saint Patrick’s Day, traditionally, it was a day to take a break from Lenten fasting, an opportunity to celebrate, maybe even have a drink or two or three!
How many of you in the midst of these crazy times, even remember the excitement and the buildup to the feast day of our legendary patron saint  who drove all the snakes out of Ireland and showed us the meaning of the Trinity using the little tree leaved shamrock that he found growing at his feet.
Originally, children used to make their own Saint Patrick’s Day badges and rosettes to wear on coat lapels and hats going to the morning mass. Later we could buy shiny green and gold badges with harps and shamrocks in our local village shops.
Speaking of which, if you have time to pop into the National Museum in Dublin, you’ll find several examples of the charming little badges, handmade from little scraps of coloured paper and wisps of material. On another subject, I bet there was a mixture of relief and apprehension in diplomatic circles when the invite eventually arrived for the Taoiseach to join the unpredictable Mr. Trump on Saint Patrick’s Day in the White House. I’ve always loved the idea of our prime minister presenting a bowl of shamrock to the President of the United States – wonder who thought of that brilliant idea originally and who has the responsibility of transporting it, so it arrives fresh and perky in Washington. Does it come all the way from Ireland? Many times, I’ve actually bought a little pot of Shamrock in the US where I spent many a Saint Patrick’s Day, happily promoting Ireland and teaching nostalgic Irish and their friends how to make an authentic Irish soda bread.
Much depends on these Saint Patrick’s Day meetings, a coveted opportunity to remind countries around the world, (over 50 this year) of Ireland’s attributes, to promote trade, connect and celebrate with the global Irish diaspora.
This year, Saint Patrick’s Day marks 100 YEARS OF IRELAND IN THE WORLD, a whole century of our country’s engagement as an active member of the international promotion of democracy, peace and security. No doubt Micheál will work his charm once again in promoting Ireland as a great place to invest and trade with, to live, visit, work and study in. We’ve got 14 nationalities here at the Ballymaloe Cookery School at present, we’ll encourage them all to go foraging for shamrock on Tuesday next and to wear a splash of green. Then we’ll tuck into a feast of corned beef and cabbage and the first rhubarb tart of the year and of course some soda bread and our favourite Spotted Dog which for the purpose of this column has been renamed St Patrick’s Day Soda Bread. Do please have a go, it’s super easy, and you can’t imagine how delicious it is cut into thick slices, slathered with butter and a cup of, you know whose tea! Happy Saint Patrick’s Day.

St. Patrick’s Day Soda Bread

Soda breads are the traditional breads of our country. Making a loaf of soda bread is a simple life skill that everyone should know.  A loaf or a tray of scones will be made in minutes and out of the oven before you find your car keys to drive to the shop!

Soda bread only takes a few minutes to make and 30-40 minutes to bake. It is certainly another of our ‘great convertibles’. We have a lot of fun experimenting with different variations from teeny weenies to crusty loaves and deep-pan pizza.  The possibilities are endless for the hitherto humble soda bread.

To make a Spotted Dog, add 110g of dried fruit (sultanas or raisins), 1 egg and 1 dessertspoon of sugar to the basic recipe.

Makes 1 round loaf

Ingredients

450g plain white flour

1 level tsp bicarbonate of soda

1 level tsp salt

350-400ml sour milk or buttermilk (the quantity depends on the thickness of the milk)

Preheat the oven to 230°C/Gas Mark 8.

*Soda bread is best cooked in a conventional oven rather than a fan or convection oven.

Method

Sieve the dry ingredients into a large bowl. Make a well in the centre and pour most of the milk in at once. Using one hand with the fingers stiff and outstretched, mix in a full circular movement from the centre to the outside of the bowl, gradually drawing in the flour from the sides.  Add a little more milk if necessary – shop bought buttermilk is thinner than farm-fresh, so you will need less rather than more. The dough should be softish, not too wet and sticky. The trick with all soda breads is not to overmix the dough – mix the dough as quickly and as gently as possible, keeping it really light and airy.  When it all comes together, a matter of seconds – turn it out onto a well-floured work surface. 

WASH AND DRY YOUR HANDS, then dust them with flour.

Tidy up the dough and flip it over gently.  Pat into a round, about 4cm deep.  Gather some of the excess flour from the worktop and sprinkle it on the centre of the baking tray.  With a sharp knife, cut a deep cross on top and prick the four corners with the tip of your knife to let the fairies out, otherwise they will jinx your bread!

Bake in the preheated oven for 15 minutes, then reduce the temperature to 200°C/Gas Mark 6 and bake for 30 minutes more, until cooked. If you are in doubt, tap the bottom of the bread – if it’s fully cooked, it will sound hollow.

Allow to cook on a wire rack.

Fadge or Potato Bread

In Ulster, people are passionate about fadge or potato bread.  It can be cooked on a griddle, in a frying pan or in the oven. A little leftover mashed potato can be, and often was, added to soda bread.

Serves 8

Ingredients

900g unpeeled ‘old’ potatoes e.g. Golden Wonders or Kerr’s Pinks

1 egg, beaten

25-50g butter, diced

40g plain flour

fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

creamy milk

bacon fat, clarified butter of olive oil for frying

Method

Bake or boil the potatoes in their jackets until soft, then pull off the skins and mash right away.   Add the beaten egg, butter and flour.  Season with lots of salt and freshly ground black pepper, adding a few drops of creamy milk if the mixture is too stiff. Taste and correct the seasoning.

Tip out onto a floured surface and shape into an 18cm round that’s 2.5cm thick, then cut into eight wedges. Dip in seasoned flour.

Heat some bacon fat, melted clarified butter or olive oil in a cast iron or griddle pan on a gentle heat. Add the wedges to the pan and cook for 4-5 minutes, until the fadge is crusty and golden on one side. Flip it over and cook the other side for 4-5 minutes more, until crusty and golden.

Alternatively, arrange the wedges on a baking tray and bake in an oven preheated to 180˚C/Gas Mark 4 for 15-20 minutes. 

Serve with an Ulster fry or just on its own on hot plates with a blob of butter melting on top.

Variation

Once again, one can do lots of riffs on potato bread.  Add chopped chives, wild garlic, thyme leaves, seaweed…

Bacon and Cabbage  

Without question Ireland’s national dish – less widely known abroad, but much more widely eaten, particularly in rural Ireland, than the legendary Irish stew.  *Nowadays, bacon is far less salty than it was in the 1970’s & 1980’s so it may not need to be blanched before cooking, just rub your finger along the surface and taste!

Serves 12-15

Ingredients

1.8-2.25kg loin or shoulder or streaky bacon with a nice covering of fat

1 head of cabbage: savoy, greyhound or spring cabbage, depending on the time of year

butter

white pepper

To Serve

Parsley Sauce (see recipe)

Method

If the bacon is too salty, cover in cold water and bring slowly to the boil (uncovered), white froth will rise to the top.  Pour off the water. Cover with hot water and simmer until nearly cooked through, allowing at least 20 minutes per 450g.

Meanwhile, remove the outer leaves from the cabbage. Cut the cabbage into quarters, discarding the centre core. Cut each quarter into thin strips across the grain. About 30 minutes before the bacon is cooked, add the cabbage. Continue to cook until the cabbage is soft and tender, and the bacon is fully cooked through. Remove the bacon to a hot plate and strain the water off the cabbage. Return the cabbage to the pan with a lump of butter, season with white pepper. Serve with the bacon and, traditionally, boiled potatoes and lots of Parsley Sauce (see recipe).

Fresh Parsley Sauce

Serves 6-8

Ingredients

4 tbsp finely chopped fresh parsley leaves (retain the stalks)

600ml fresh whole milk

30-45g roux (equal quantities of plain flour and butter, cooked together for 2 minutes on a low heat, stirring occasionally)

salt and freshly ground pepper

Method

Put the parsley stalks into a saucepan with the cold milk, bring slowly to the boil, then remove the stalks. Whisk the roux into the boiling milk until thickened and add lots and lots of chopped fresh parsley. Season with salt and freshly ground pepper. Simmer for 5-10 minutes on a very low heat, then taste and correct the seasoning before serving.

For me, when I’m on holiday, one of the greatest luxuries is to be able to sit and relax and not to have to rush after breakfast. I’m in Ahilya Fort located 2 1/2 hours by car from Indore in India.
Breakfast is outdoors on the Mandap, the upper terrace overlooking the sacred Narmada River, next to the ‘Pug Hotel’ where four chubby pugs soak up adoration from the passing guests.
My breakfast at home – it’s a cup of coffee, a glass of freshly squeezed orange juice (my daily shot of vitamin C) and then on with the business of the day.
Here, it’s bliss being able to linger over breakfast…the only decision I’ve got to make is what to choose from the menu.
I’ll definitely have chai masala, a milky spiced tea, with just one lump of sugar, maybe a piece of ripe papaya and a squeeze of fresh lime. A bowl of homemade buffalo curd (natural yoghurt) with a drizzle of wild  honey plus the suggestion of a crunchy homemade muesli made with puffed and flaked rice to scatter over the yoghurt with sliced locally grown bananas.
Will it be some spicy Maheshwari scrambled eggs, with a dice of fresh turmeric and coriander leaves sprinkled over the top and maybe a crisp rasher on the side or perhaps a herb omelette made with farm eggs, freshly grated cheese, and a fistful of fresh herbs from the garden.
Maybe I’ll have some fresh bam, an eel type fish from downstream on the river Narmada, fried with lots of green chilli, spices and more fresh turmeric from our host’s organic farm.
And then there’s a daily special.
Could be south Indian dosa with sambhar or coconut, tomato, tamarind and green chutneys. Maybe Appam with isthew or maybe chole or aloo puri, or a variety of parathas.
Such difficult decisions to make in the morning and of course I want to have the recipe for each and every one.
There is also the option of a traditional Irish breakfast with a little bowl of super sweet baked beans but why would you want that when there are so many Indian options to try.
Today, I’ll share three recipes which Ahilya Fort generously shared with me. All are easy to make at home. Try to find really fresh organic free range eggs, maybe you have listened to my constant nagging to have a few hens of your own in a coop in your backyard to eat up the food scraps and reward you with beautiful eggs for your Maheshwari scrambled eggs.

Maheshwari Scrambled Eggs 

Thank you to the chefs at Ahilya Fort for sharing the recipe for this delicious Indian riff on scrambled eggs. 

Serves 1 

1 tbsp extra virgin olive oil 

1 medium garlic clove, finely chopped 

2 tsp chopped red onion (20g)

3 tsp chopped tomato, 5mm dice (50g)

1 tsp cumin seeds, dry roasted and roughly chopped

½ tsp ground turmeric 

2 eggs, organic if possible

½ tsp salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 tbsp extra virgin olive oil 

1 tbsp finely grated cheese, could be mature Cheddar and Parmesan (20g)

finely diced fresh turmeric (2-3g)

2 tsp coarsely chopped fresh coriander 

Heat the olive oil in a frying pan over a medium heat.

Add the garlic, onion and tomato and stir and fry. Add the cumin and turmeric (both dry) and cook for 3-4 minutes until the onion softens.

Whisk the eggs, add the onion and tomato mixture. Season with salt and freshly ground black pepper.

Film the base of the pan with the olive oil. Stir and cook the egg mixture for 15-20 seconds.  Sprinkle on the grated cheese, cook for a further 15- 20 seconds, the texture should be soft. Spoon onto a warm plate. Sprinkle with diced fresh turmeric and fresh coriander.

Serve immediately with flat bread or toast.  

Ahilya Fort Muesli

Serve with yoghurt and sliced banana or sprinkle on stewed

apple for a crunchy topping.

Serves 20

60g approx. rice flakes (poha)

70g puffed rice (parmal)

100g oatmeal

60g approx. corn flakes

110g frozen coconut or slice thinly if fresh

50g almonds, halved

50g cashews, halved

40g or more sesame seeds

150-300g honey

1 ½ tbsp of ghee or clarified butter

80g raisin or sultanas

Preheat the oven to 200°C/Gas Mark 6.

Mix the rice flakes, puffed rice, oatmeal, corn flakes together, add the coconut, halved nuts and seeds.

Heat the honey and ghee or oil in a small saucepan.

Pour over the dry ingredients, toss well to coat.

Spread on baking trays.

Bake in the preheated oven for 20-25 minutes, stirring regularly until crisp. Remove from the oven. Add the sultanas or raisins, they will plump up in the warmth. Allow to cool on the trays. Store in an airtight jar.

Ahilya Fort Herb and Cheese Omelette

The freshly laid eggs come directly from the Hens on the Organic farm and the herbs from the garden…

Serves 1

2 fresh farm eggs
salt and freshly cracked pepper
2 tbsp of coarsely chopped herbs, chives or green part of spring onions, thyme, parsley, marjoram
15g butter
25-50g freshly grated cheese, maybe, Cheddar, Gruyere and Parmesan or a mixture

Whisk the eggs in a bowl. Season well with salt and freshly ground pepper, add the coarsely chopped herbs.

Melt the butter in a medium to hot pan, when the butter is sizzling and melted, pour in the egg mixture. Tilt the pan to spread evenly. Allow to cook on the base for a minute or so, sprinkle some grated cheese over the surface and allow to cook for another minute or so. Fold in half to make a semi-circle, flip over so it colours slightly on both sides.

Slide onto a warm plate and serve alone or with fresh chutneys of your choice, perhaps a green chutney, coconut and tomato.

This week, three of my favourite ways with chicken thighs and an excuse to encourage all diehard white meat lovers to try brown meat, my own personal favourite.
Of course, I’ll eat white meat when I’m served it, but I would never voluntarily choose. Drumsticks and thighs are so much more flavourful than breast meat, but you won’t believe me until you actually taste the difference.
Did you know that chicken breast outsells chicken thighs by about 50% – recent data shows that chicken breast remains the most popular meat in Ireland.  However, apparently sales trends are shifting, with chicken thighs gaining popularity because of their flavour, versatility and excellent value. Since early 2025, sales of chicken thighs have grown by 15.9% over chicken breast. Poultry meat accounts for 45% of all meat consumed in Ireland. White meat can so easily be dry, although brining it in salty water for just 30-40 minutes can make a huge difference to both the texture and flavour.
I really do love chicken but only eat it maybe once a week.
Childhood memories of the plump, flavoursome chickens that Mummy reared on kitchen food scraps has made me pretty dissatisfied with the majority of chicken, most of which is intensely produced in conditions that certainly raise welfare issues.
From egg to slaughter in 28-30 days as opposed to free-range organic birds that walk freely outdoors for 80-100 days, scratching in the grass which keeps them happy and healthy. A bird reared this way obviously costs immensely more to rear than factory produced birds. The feed and hence the retail price must be €20 plus depending on the size. Difficult to countenance when one can buy an ‘orphan chicken’ for as little as €3.79 or €5.89 for an Irish free-range chicken. These organic chickens are scarce; I buy from just a few organic and free-range producers. They sometimes don’t have enough birds to supply the demand in the Ballymaloe Cookery School Farm Shop also. As a growing number of people search for nourishing wholesome healthy food, it’s vital that the food regulations are proportionate to the risk involved, to support rather than discourage the small poultry producers who are prepared and still have the skill to rear farmhouse birds. They need encouragement rather than unnecessary impediments put in their way and mandatory clear and honest labelling. 
Do I hear you saying, it’s all very fine for her, the perception may be that I can afford it.  Well, let me tell you I can afford what seems like a luxury because I only buy whole chickens, complete with giblets. I can get seven delicious meals from one plump chicken, using every single scrap, including the carcass and giblets plus the feet for stock.
1.  The crispy skin is super delicious.
2. Chicken breasts.
3. Chicken tenders.
4. Chicken drumsticks.
5. Chicken thighs.
6. Carcass and neck, giblets and feet when I get them. One supplier told me that he wished every chicken had four feet, such is the demand for chicken feet for their high collagen content and the flavour they impart to the stock.
7. Chicken liver, loaded with vitamins A and B12 makes the most delicious chicken liver pâté which Myrtle showed me how to make years ago when I first came to Ballymaloe and we have been enjoying it ever since.
8. Chicken hearts and gizzards for kebabs or a Salade des Gésiers, so beloved in French bistros.
A chicken thigh makes a perfect portion, it can be cooked whole, simply roasted with a sprinkle of flaky sea salt. Can be bone in or out, with or without the skin, it’s not in the least bit difficult to remove the bone, (crack it with the back of a chopping knife and add to the stock pot). The thigh can then be stuffed with whatever you fancy – a slick of pesto, some mozzarella, wrapped in pancetta.
Dice into chunks, simmer gently, add some freshly chopped fresh herbs or spices,  a splash of stock and cream to make a delicious sauce.
The skin peels off really easily, sprinkle it with flaky sea salt and crispy up in the oven at 120°C/Gas Mark ½ for 25-30 minutes.
So delicious that everyone will argue over it – use it to garnish your dish or just nibble.
For simple supper, just brush the chicken thighs with extra virgin olive oil, then lots of finely chopped fresh thyme or rosemary. Season generously with flaky sea salt and fresh ground pepper. Add a generous dusting of smoked paprika or a few chilli flakes if you fancy. Pop into the oven on a roasting tray, maybe add a few wedges but here are three chicken thigh recipes that will become firm favourites.

Ottolenghi’s Roast Chicken Thighs with Saffron, Hazelnuts and Honey

The cooking time will vary according to the size of the chicken thighs; this has become a great favourite for supper parties. If you are doing half the recipe, choose an oven-proof dish or tray just large enough to accommodate the chicken in a single layer.

Serves 6-8

Ingredients

8 large organic or free-range chicken thighs

2 onions, roughly chopped

4 tbsp olive oil

1 tsp ground ginger

1 tsp ground cinnamon

a generous pinch of saffron strands

juice of 1 lemon

4 tbsp cold water

2 tsp coarse sea salt

1 tsp black pepper

100g unskinned hazelnuts

70g honey

1-2 tbsp rosewater depending on strength of rosewater

2 spring onions, sliced at an angle

sprigs of coriander

Method

Mix the chicken pieces with the onions, olive oil, ginger, cinnamon, saffron, lemon juice and water in a large bowl.  Season with salt and pepper. Leave to marinate for at least 1 hour, or overnight in the fridge.

Preheat the oven to 200°C/Gas Mark 6. 

Spread the hazelnuts out on an oven tray and roast for 10 minutes, until lightly browned.  Chop roughly and set aside.

Reduce the temperature to 180°C/Gas Mark 4.

Transfer the chicken and marinade to a roasting tray just large enough to accommodate everything comfortably.  Arrange the chicken pieces skin side up and put the tray in the oven for about 35 minutes or until nearly cooked. * (see note at end of recipe).

While the chicken is roasting, mix the honey, rosewater and nuts together to make a rough paste.  Remove the chicken from the oven, spoon a generous amount of nut paste on to each piece and spread it to cover.  Return to the oven for 5-10 minutes, until the chicken is cooked through and the nuts are golden brown.

Transfer the chicken, the juices and toasted nuts to a serving dish and garnish with the sliced spring onions and coriander leaves.

*The organic chickens we use are larger; the thighs weigh about 185g and take approximately 1 ¼ – 1 ½ hours to cook.

One-Dish Roast Chicken Supper with Thyme and Rosemary

Another lip-smackingly delicious dish that family and friends love me to cook for them. A whole roasting tray of crispy chicken, bacon and potatoes, perfumed with rosemary and thyme leaves. For a feistier flavour, substitute one-third to half the bacon for diced chorizo. Halve the quantities below for a smaller serving.

Serves 8-10

Ingredients

2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil, plus extra for drizzling

500g streaky bacon lardons

2kg free-range, organic chicken thighs (drumsticks and wings can also be included)

2-3 tbsp thyme leaves

1-2 tbsp chopped rosemary

1.1kg (about 10 large) potatoes

250g onions, sliced

60-110ml hot chicken stock

flaky sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

To Serve

green salad or tomato fondue or piperonata

1 roasting tin – 37 x 31cm or 2 small tins – 30 x 20cm

Method

Preheat the oven to 230°C/Gas Mark 8.

Heat the olive oil in a roasting tin, add the bacon and toss over a high heat until it is beginning to colour.  Remove to a plate with a perforated spoon.

Season the chicken generously with salt and pepper. Put into a large bowl and scatter with most of the thyme leaves and chopped rosemary, reserving some for the potatoes. (I sometimes add a sprinkling of chilli flakes or smoked paprika – it gets a brilliant reaction). Toss well.

Peel the potatoes and cut into 1cm thick chips. Dry and season well with salt, pepper and the reserved herbs. Add to the bowl with chicken. Drizzle with the bacon fat and olive oil from the pan and toss once again.

Scatter the onions and bacon over the base of the roasting tin(s). Arrange the chicken and potatoes haphazardly on top, making sure that the potatoes are popping up. Drizzle with a little more olive oil.

Roast for 45 minutes–1 hour or until the chicken is cooked through (the juices should be running clear if pricked with a knife) and the chips are crispy at the edges. (Organic chicken pieces are larger, so cooking time can be up to 1 ¼ hours.)   Add the chicken stock at the end if the dish needs a little more juice.

Serve from the tin, family style, with a good green salad and vegetables of your choice, such as tomato fondue or piperonata if you wish.

Sticky Chinese Chicken Thighs

A perfect recipe to celebrate the Chinese New Year from February 17^th – March 3^rd 2026.

Serves 4

Ingredients

8 chicken thighs, skin on and bone in

4 tbsp hoisin sauce

2 tsp sesame oil

2 tbsp honey

½ tsp Chinese five-spice powder

thumb-sized knob of ginger, grated

2 garlic cloves, grated

bunch spring onions, chopped

50g cashew nuts, toasted or sesame seeds

To Serve

plain boiled rice

Method

Preheat the oven to 200°C/Gas Mark 6.

Arrange the chicken thighs in a large roasting tin and slash the skin 2-3 times on each thigh. 

Mix together the hoisin sauce, sesame oil, honey, five-spice powder, ginger, garlic and some salt and pepper.  Pour over the chicken and toss to coat – allow to marinate for 2 hours, or overnight if you have time.

Roast in the preheated oven, skin-side up for 35 minutes, basting as least once during cooking.  Sprinkle with toasted cashew nuts or sesame seeds and spring onions. 

Serve with rice.

Even though pizzas and burgers vie for top spot on our menus, they are often referred to disparagingly because of the quality.
Nonetheless, we all know they can be super nutritious and delicious, when homemade with really flavourful ingredients.
Today, I’ll concentrate on burgers, two yummy meat burgers and one irresistible fish burger.
So what’s the secret of a delectable meat burger?
Well, it all starts with the quality and freshness of the meat. Buy a piece of well hung chuck or chump or flank from your local butcher, smile sweetly and ask for it to be minced there and then. The secret of delicious succulent burgers is the proportion of juicy fat to lean, aim for at least 20% better still 25% – this proportion will ensure that the burgers remain moist in cooking without being greasy or crumbling apart.
A high percentage of lean meat results in dry, dull burgers, despite popular perception and our well-orchestrated fear of fat.
Myrtle Allen always liked to add a little finely chopped sweated onion for extra sweetness but one can just mince top quality meat from a well reared animal, and season judiciously, this too results in an irresistible burger. Add various peppers, chilli, smoked paprika, pul biber, Aleppo pepper for extra excitement!
But the accompaniments are also key to the finished dish.
It can of course be naked or bunless but let’s face it most burger buns are gross and can ruin an otherwise delicious burger, we make an easy recipe given to me years ago by one of my students, Evie Lanitis.
I’m sure you’re rolling your eyes and thinking where does she think I’d get the time to make burger buns?
Well, how about making time to make a batch of your own, it can be quite therapeutic at a weekend and if you have kids they love to watch and help with shaping the buns.
One batch will make 24-30 buns, depending on size, they freeze perfectly and defrost quickly, particularly if they have been split horizontally before freezing.
Mix and season the mince but before you shape the burger, fry off a little morsel on a pan, taste and correct the seasoning.
Burgers have come a long way since they were invented, we’re not sure by whom…
Smash burgers with crisp, lacy, deeply golden brown edges are all the rage, and there are numerous variations on the original. The smashing maximises the Maillard reaction enhancing the rich and complex flavours that define an exceptional burger.
Try this pork burger too, once again, the fat content is crucially important to the succulence.
No point in even bothering if you can’t source pork from a well-reared pig. It will cost more, but the end result will hopefully be memorable rather than dull and boring.
I like to serve pork burgers with a piquant chimichurri sauce, but even a Bramley apple sauce will cut the richness deliciously, a few frozen damsons that I found in my freezer would be good too, but even the original will do the job deliciously. And now, how about a fish burger with minted peas and tartare sauce. Once again, the fish must be super fresh. You can’t imagine how delicious it will be. Try this version from Julius Roberts book whose recipes I featured in a recent column, and you seemed to love them.
Let me know how you enjoy these.

Basic Beef Burgers

The secret of really good beef burgers is the quality of the mince, it doesn’t need to be an expensive cut, but it is essential to use the freshly minced beef. A small percentage of fat in the mince will make the burgers sweet and juicy – between 20-25 per cent.  One or two tbsp of Worcestershire sauce, 1/4 tsp of chili flakes, 1-2 tbsp of sambal oelek, 2 tbsp of fish sauce, 1-2 tsp of ground cumin or coriander can be added according to your taste, but the recipe below gives a delicious basic burger.

Serves 4

Ingredients

15g butter or extra virgin olive oil

75g onion, finely chopped (optional)

450g freshly minced beef – flank, chump or shin would be perfect

1/2 tsp fresh thyme leaves

1/2 tsp finely chopped flat-leaf parsley

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

olive oil

To Serve (optional)

burger or brioche buns

lettuce

sliced ripe tomatoes

sliced red onion

crispy bacon

avocado slices or a dollop of Guacamole (see recipe)

fried onions

roast or piquillo peppers

kimchi, pickled slaw or pickles

homemade spicy mayo or spicy tomato sauce,

barbecue sauce, hot sauce, bacon jam or relish of your choice

Method

Melt the butter in a saucepan, toss in the onions, if using, cover and sweat over a low heat for 5-6 minutes until soft but not coloured.  Set aside to get cold. 

Meanwhile, mix the beef mince with the herbs and season with salt and pepper.  Then add the cooled onions and mix well.  Fry off a tiny bit of the mixture in the pan to check the seasoning and adjust if necessary. 

With wet hands, shape the mixture into four burgers, or more depending on the size you require.  Chill until needed.

Cook to your taste in a little oil in a medium-hot frying or griddle pan, turning once.  For rare, cook for 2 minutes each side, for medium 3 minutes and for well-done 4 minutes.  If you’re cooking the burgers in batches, make sure to wash and dry the pan between batches.  Burgers can plump up in the centre while being cooked; to avoid this, make an indentation in the centre of each raw burger with your thumb.  Serve with any of the serving suggestions listed in the recipe.

Rory O’Connell’s Grilled Pork Burger with Fennel and Pistachios served with Apple and Plum or Damson Sauce

Thank you, Rory, for sharing this recipe.

These burgers are sweet and delicious. Belly or shoulder of pork is best here as you are generally guaranteed a decent amount of fat from those two cuts, and fat is essential for a good burger. If the meat you are using is too lean the burgers will be dry, hard and lacking in flavour. The other crucial point to remember for any kind of minced meat dish is that the mince needs to be really fresh, so minced on the same day you are going to cook and eat them. Minced meat deteriorates faster than any other prepared meat, hence freshness is paramount. Aromatic roast fennel seeds work beautifully here as they do with almost any cut of pork and the pistachio nuts add their own magical flavour and texture. I serve these with various different dishes. A plain mashed potato is good as is the courgette and marjoram mash. They also sit happily with a tomato stew or sauce. A Bramley apple sauce or the version with plums is also good here.  Cook these burgers fully, this is not the time for a rare burger!

Serves 6 as a main course

Ingredients

700g minced streaky or shoulder of pork

2 cloves of garlic crushed

1-2 chillies, deseeded and finely chopped

2 tsp of fennel seeds, roasted and ground

2 tbsp chopped coriander leaves

40g pistachio nuts, shells removed and coarsely chopped

Maldon sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

Method

Mix all of the above ingredients together. Fry a teaspoon of the mixture to check seasoning. Adjust as necessary. Form the mixture into burgers, either 4 large or 8 small, and chill until ready to cook. Heat a heavy grill pan until quite hot. Grease the burgers lightly with olive oil and place on the hot grill to cook.  Allow to become golden brown on one side before turning. Control the heat carefully and cook the burgers, turning occasionally until fully cooked through. This takes about 15 minutes, and the burgers will feel firm to the touch.

Serve the burgers on hot plates with Bramley Apple and Plum Sauce and a vegetable of choice.

Bramley Apple and Plum or Damson Sauce

Ingredients

450g Bramley apples

4 plums or damsons

2 tbsp sugar

2 tbsp water

Method

Peel, quarter and core the apples. Cut each quarter in half. Place in a small saucepan with the sugar and water. Quarter the plums and remove the stones and add to the apples. Cover the saucepan with a tight fitting lid and cook on a very low heat. The apples and plums will collapse to a frothy fluff. Allow to cool a little and then if you wish, lift the skins off the pieces of plum – it is not essential to do this. Stir well to mix the apples and the plums and taste and if necessary, add another pinch of sugar.

Crispy Fish Baps with Minted Peas and Tartare Sauce

*Recipe adapted from The Farm Table by Julius Roberts, published by Ebury Press

Dover or lemon sole work best, but if using a slightly thicker fish, turn the frying heat to 170°C and let the breadcrumbs brown a little more slowly, by which point the fish should be cooked within. Seek out buns that are so fluffy, your fingers leave an impression, keep the tartare sauce quite chunky and fill them to the brim with sweet buttery peas.

Serves 4

Ingredients

400g frozen peas

40g butter

1 unwaxed lemon

a bunch of fresh mint leaves, picked and finely chopped

150g plain flour

2 eggs

150g panko breadcrumbs

4 fillets of white fish

enough sunflower for shallow frying

4 baps

Tartare Sauce

250g natural yoghurt or homemade mayo or use half and half

80g cornichons, coarsely chopped

50g capers, coarsely chopped

1 shallot, finely diced

a bunch of fresh dill (20g) finely chopped (tarragon, chervil may also be used)

Method

Bring a pan of salted water to the boil and pop in the peas and cook for 4 minutes approx., then drain. Return the peas to the pan and add the butter. Remove from the heat, crush the peas with a potato masher, grate in the zest of the lemon and stir in the mint. Season to taste with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Add lemon juice before serving.

Next make the tartare sauce.

Mix all the ingredients together in a bowl, taste adding more cornichons, lemon or herbs or yoghurt to mellow it out – be careful that it’s not overly acidic.

Take three plates or shallow bowls for the flour, egg and panko breadcrumbs. Season the flour with a good pinch of salt and whisk the eggs together.

Take one piece of fish, coat each fillet with flour, shaking off any excess, transfer it to the egg, turn to coat each side. Allow any excess to drip off, then transfer to the panko and turn a few times until well-coated. Transfer to a parchment lined tray and repeat with the remaining fillets.

Pour some sunflower oil into a wide high-sided frying pan and place on a medium heat (it should come 7.5cm up the side of the frying pan approx.). The frying temperature should be between 170-180°C, use a thermometer if you have one or test with a little pinch of panko which should sizzle as soon as it hits the hot oil and turn golden.

Gently place the fillets in the oil – best to cook in batches so as to not overload the frying pan which will reduce the internal cooking temperature. Fry until the first side is golden, then gently flip to cook the other side (a couple of minutes). If using a thicker piece of fish, cook at a lower temperature initially, then turn up to brown the panko towards the end. Remove from the oil, transfer to a tray lined with kitchen paper to soak up the excess oil, then sprinkle with flaky sea salt and a grind of freshly ground black pepper.

As the fish is frying, split the baps and lightly toast or grill.

Spoon a generous amount of tartare sauce on the base of each bap, top with the crispy fish, spoon over the peas and finish with another layer of tartare and the top of the bag. Eat immediately.