I have just read something totally shocking; a recent study conducted at the Wayne State University in Detroit found that 32% of 9 month old babies are already obese or overweight. According to the survey many babies are being fed too much formula to induce them to sleep for longer and or being weaned too early onto a diet of fatty sugary food, pureed chips or the remains of a Chinese takeaway – almost beyond belief but sadly true and there’s no point in us feel smug – similar findings are emerging elsewhere.

Obesity is unquestionably the greatest public health challenge facing the affluent world – a time bomb ticking away – and an increasing strain on every Health Service. Current figures in Ireland reveal that there are 327,000 over weight children with numbers predicted to grow by 11,000 every year. Diabetes and heart disease are on the rise dramatically. An Irish study by Dr Aileen McGloin in 2007 came up with yet another shocking statistic; 52% of Irish mothers of obese children and 86% of mothers of over weight children thought their weight was totally normal for their age.

Blaming parents is far too simplistic; there are a multitude of reasons why we have arrived at this situation. Much of the food available fills rather than nourishes – many children are allowed to nibble from morning to night, unlike the strict no food between meals policy of earlier years. Portion sizes continue to increase as we embrace the ‘grab, gobble and go,’ culture of the US. Many parents have no basic cooking skills so are incapable of anything more challenging than reheating chips or popping a pizza or a burger into the microwave. They simply don’t have the skills to cook a fresh vegetable or roast a chicken and make a nourishing stew. But most seriously of all the food industry is allowed to go virtually unchecked as they target young people through every clever method at their disposal. So it becomes a Catch 22 situation. A myriad of studies have been conducted so now there is ample evidence and a ton of statistics. We don’t need any more research we need action. At government level there has been unforgivable apathy. The National Task on Obesity published in 2005 made 93 recommendations and despite the fact that no-one in the Government Department of Health or the food industry can argue that we don’t know the risks little more than 20% have been implemented. There appears to be no real urgency or commitment to tackle the vested interest in the multinational food industry. We don’t need more studies we need action now the food industry must only produce food that nourished rather than food that just fills their pockets. Perhaps the incoming government will be more visionary in their approach. A virtuous triangle of cooperation between the Department of Agriculture, Department of Health and Department of Education working together in a preventative way for our children’s future.

In Australia, they are taking drastic measures to shock the public and the powers that be into action. In a TV advert a mother walks into a kitchen with a brown bag under her arm, ties a tourniquet around her child’s arm and tucks a napkin under his chin. She takes out a syringe and carefully unfolds some heroin from a strip of silver foil. Suddenly the scene changes to a child sitting at a table eating a hamburger – the following question appears on the screen… ‘You wouldn’t inject your child with junk – so why are you feeding it to them?” It caused uproar but certainly got people thinking – after all every culture in the world has a saying ‘we are what we eat’.

Meanwhile a few simple foods to wean your baby onto so no-one needs to resort to pureed chips.

Having said that, a liquidiser or a little ‘Mouli Legume’ is a terrific help for those of you who are determined to make homemade food for their. Be guided by your health nurse for when to introduce solid food.

Potato Soup

Serves 6

Most people would have potatoes and onions in the house even if the cupboard was otherwise bare so one could make this simply delicious soup at a moment’s notice. It’s perfect for babies but is equally delicious for the rest of the family, enough for 6 portions but can also be frozen in little pots as a standby. Go easy on the seasoning for babies.

50g (2oz) butter or extra virgin olive oil

550g (20oz) peeled diced potatoes, one-third inch dice

110g (4oz) diced onions, one-third inch dice

salt and freshly ground pepper

1 litre (2 pints) homemade chicken stock or vegetable stock

100ml (4fl oz) creamy milk

For grownups serve freshly chopped herbs and herb flowers, optional

Melt the butter in a heavy saucepan. When it foams, add the potatoes and onions and toss them in the butter until well coated. Sprinkle with salt and a few grinds of pepper. Cover with a butter wrapper or paper lid and the lid of the saucepan. Sweat on a gentle heat for 10 minutes approx. Meanwhile bring the stock to the boil, when the vegetables are soft but not coloured add stock and continue to cook until the vegetables are soft. Puree the soup in a blender or food processor. Taste and adjust seasoning. Thin with creamy milk to the required consistency.

Serve sprinkled with a few freshly-chopped herbs and herb flowers if available.

Carrageen Moss Pudding

Magic food – all our babies were weaned onto Carrageen mosses. The dried Carrageen moss can be found easily in health food shops and keeps almost indefinitely in its dried form.

Serves 4-6

1 semi-closed fistful (1/4 oz /8g) cleaned, well dried Carrageen Moss

1 1/2 pints (900ml) milk

1 tablespoon castor sugar

1 egg, preferably free range

1/2 teaspoon pure vanilla extract or a vanilla pod

Soak the carrageen in tepid water for 10 minutes. Strain off the water and put the carrageen into a saucepan with milk and vanilla pod if used. Bring to the boil and simmer very gently with the lid on for 20 minutes. At that point and not before separate the egg, put the yolk into a bowl, add the sugar and vanilla essence and whisk together for a few seconds, then pour the milk and carrageen moss through a strainer onto the egg yolk mixture whisking all the time. The carrageen will now be swollen and exuding jelly. Rub all this jelly through the strainer and whisk this also into the milk with the sugar, egg yolk and vanilla extract if used. Test for a set in a saucer as one would with gelatine. Whisk the egg white stiffly and fold or fluff it in gently. It will rise to make a fluffy top. Serve chilled with soft brown sugar and cream and or with a fruit compote eg. poached rhubarb.

Mashed Potato

Cooking the potatoes in their jackets keeps in the flavours.  They are also easier and less wasteful to peel. This makes lots, again a terrific standby for babies either alone or mixed with a little chicken, beef or lamb gravy. Or a little cooked fish, mashed or pureed carrot.

Serves 4

2 lbs (900g) unpeeled potatoes, preferably Golden Wonders or Kerr’s Pinks

1/2 pint (300ml) creamy milk

1-2 ozs (25-50g) butter

Scrub the potatoes well. Put them into a saucepan of cold water, add a good pinch of salt (optional) and bring to the boil. When the potatoes are about half cooked, 15 minutes approx. for ‘old’ potatoes, strain off two-thirds of the water, replace the lid on the saucepan, put on to a gentle heat and allow the potatoes to steam until they are cooked. Peel immediately by just pulling off the skins, so you have as little waste as possible, mash while hot. (If you have a large quantity, put the potatoes into the bowl of a food mixer and beat with the spade).

While the potatoes are being peeled, bring about 1/2 pint (300ml) of milk to the boil.  (Use a two pronged carving fork so they don’t break and gently pull off the skin so there is minimum waste – we feed the skins to the hens). Add enough boiling creamy milk to mix to a soft light consistency suitable for piping, then beat in the butter, the amount depending on how rich you like your potatoes. Taste and season with salt and freshly ground pepper.

Bramley Apple Sauce

Brilliant on its own or with a little natural yoghurt. It’s also a good standby to have in the fridge or freezer.

1 lb (450g) cooking apples, (Bramley Seedling)

1-2 dessertspoons water

2 ozs (50g) sugar approx. depending on tartness of the apples

Peel, quarter and core the apples, cut pieces in two and put in a small stainless steel or cast iron saucepan, with the sugar and water, cover and put over a low heat, as soon as the apple has broken down, stir and taste for sweetness. Puree for babies.  Serve warm or cold.

Old Fashioned Rice Pudding

Another favourite for children. A creamy rice pudding is one of the greatest treats on a cold winter’s day. You need to use short-grain rice, which plumps up as it cooks. This is definitely an almost forgotten pudding loved by children of all ages. Puree for babies.

Serves 6–8

100g (31⁄2oz) pearl rice (short-grain rice)

50g (2oz) sugar

small knob of butter

1. 2 litres (2 pints) milk

1 x 1. 2 litre (2 pint) capacity pie dish

Preheat the oven to 180ºC/350ºF/gas mark 4.

Put the rice, sugar and butter into a pie dish. Bring the milk to the boil and pour over. Bake for 1–1 1⁄2 hours. The skin should be golden; the rice underneath should be cooked through and have soaked up the milk, but still be soft and creamy. Time it so that it’s ready just in time for pudding. If it has to wait in the oven for ages it will be dry and dull and you’ll wonder why you bothered.

Easy Homemade Yogurt

Homemade yoghurt is easy to make and much more delicious than much of what is available to buy.

2 litres (3 1⁄2 pints) full-cream milk

50g (2oz) skim-milk powder

2 teaspoons very fresh, live natural yogurt

Heat the milk in a heavy, stainless-steel saucepan. When it is lukewarm, stir in the skim-milk powder. Continue to heat until the milk begins to froth, at about 90ºC (194ºF).

Turn off the heat and leave to stand for 15 minutes, by which time the mixture should have cooled to about 40–42ºC (104–108ºF). Having a dairy thermometer takes the guesswork out of this, but alternatively you can test it in the time-honoured way, by inserting a clean finger into the milk. You should be able to leave your finger for a count of 10 without it getting too hot. At this point, stir in the live yogurt and then transfer the mixture into a heavy earthenware bowl.

Wrap the entire bowl in a towel and keep it in a warm place until the milk coagulates a minimum of 5 hours or, better still, overnight.

One way or another, you need to keep the bowl warm. The optimum temperature should be around 40ºC (104ºF), but if it’s a bit cooler than that it doesn’t matter; it will just take longer to coagulate. The longer the mixture is kept warm, the better the flavour.

When the yogurt is set, transfer to the fridge and use as required.

Fool Proof Food

Three Bears Porridge

Pinhead oatmeal make the yummiest porridge, a big bowl kept the three bears and goldilocks happy all morning and their tummies didn’t rumble again until noon.  If you would like to eat a bowl of porridge in a few minutes buy some speedicook oatmeal instead.  Bring the water to the boil, sprinkle in the oatmeal, stirring all the time.  Cook for 4 – 5 minutes on a medium heat, add salt the taste.  Pour into a bowl and eat as above. Porridge is brilliant food for toddlers and young children and everyone. Puree for babies. Our grandchildren enjoy and enjoyed a little porridge from six months onwards.

Serves 8

310g (11oz) pinhead oatmeal

950ml (32fl oz) water

1/2 teaspoon salt (or less for babies)

If you think of it the night before, soak the oatmeal in 225ml (8fl oz) cold water in a saucepan.

On the day, bring 725ml (24fl oz) water to the boil and add to the oatmeal. Put on a low heat and stir until the water comes back to the boil.  Cover and simmer for 15-20 minutes, stirring occasionally. Stir in the salt. Cover again and leave aside overnight, the oatmeal will absorb all the water.

Next day, reheat adding a little more water if necessary; serve with milk and soft brown sugar.

Hottips

Louise O’Brien past student of Ballymaloe has opened The Tea Room at Tullamore Dew Heritage Centre, Bury Quay, Co Offaly and is doing gorgeous food – the Red Pepper Goats’ Cheese and Spinach Roulade is delicious. The Tea Room is situated a tiny way off the main street but well worth meandering there for the freshly baked cookies and cakes – contact Louise on +353 (0) 86 2079654.

Alice’s Cookbook – I love this little cook-book, one of the New Voices in Food Series published by Quadrille in 2010. It’s packed with super little recipes from a confident creative chef still only in her 20s. As well as being a chef Alice Hart was the youngest ever food editor of Waitrose Food Illustrated and has run a pop-up restaurant ‘The Hart and Fuggle’ in London and a Vietnamese restaurant is underway. Watch out, this girl is definitely a rising star.

Marmalade Time Again.

The Malaga oranges have just arrived in the shops, I know there are millions of people out there who reckon life is far too short to make marmalade but believe it or not I can’t wait to get started.

I love making marmalade. I love the smell that permeates through the whole house, the way it steams up the kitchen windows and the smug feeling of delicious satisfaction when you survey the result of your hard work – jars and jars with thick peel glistening through the glass. I even love the chopping and slicing that many find ridiculously labourious, for me it’s therapeutic, a ‘high stool’ job where I can just effortlessly slice and dream for as long as it takes to do the job. A sharp knife is definitely a bonus otherwise it does become tedious.

One could and many do just chuck the peel into a food processor and press the pulse button – it’s faster of course but I’m not keen on the sludgy texture that method produces.

Marmalade aficionados take all this very seriously after all it can ruin your day if the morning toast and marmalade are not just right, so I know it will resonate with lots of people.

Favourite recipes have been passed down in families for generations, some of us love dark bitter marmalade, others prefer a fresher fruitier preserve, I came across this recipe for Kumquat marmalade in Sydney. Kumquats are far less expensive in Australia but it is so worth making at least one batch. Of course its gorgeous on hot buttered toast but it’s also terrific with goat cheese and rocket on crostini as a little nibble or a starter add a couple of tablespoons into a duck gravy with a squeeze or two of lemon juice to make a cheats orange sauce.

Some people like to add a little fresh ginger or whiskey to their marmalade and very good it is too. It also has an extra cachet if you want to sell some at your local farmers market.

For those who enjoy more of a ‘little chip’ marmalade simply slice the peel into the finest julienne you can manage.

 

Seville Whole Orange Marmalade 

Most recipes require you to slice the orange peel first, but with this one you boil the oranges whole and then slice the cooked peel later. With any marmalade it is vital that the original liquid has reduced by half or, better still, two-thirds before the sugar is added; otherwise it takes ages to reach a set and both the flavour and colour will be spoiled. A wide, low-sided stainless-steel saucepan is best for this recipe, about 35.5cm (14 inches) deep and 40.5cm (16 inches) in diameter. If you don’t have one that big, then cook the marmalade in two batches.

Makes about 5.8–6.75kg (13–15lb)

2.25kg (4 1⁄2lb) Seville or Malaga oranges (organic if possible)

4kg (9lb) sugar, warmed

Wash the oranges and put them in a stainless-steel saucepan with 5.2 litres (9 pints) of water. Put a plate on top of the oranges to keep them under the surface of the water. Cover the saucepan, then simmer gently until the oranges are soft, about 2 hours. Cool and drain, reserving the water. (If more convenient, leave overnight and continue next day.)

Put a chopping board onto a large baking tray with sides so you won’t lose any juice. Then cut the oranges in half and scoop out the soft centre. Slice the peel finely and put the pips into a muslin bag.

Put the escaped juice, sliced oranges and the muslin bag of pips into a large, wide stainless-steel saucepan with the reserved cooking liquid. Bring to the boil, reduce by half or, better still, two-thirds. Add the warmed sugar and stir over a brisk heat until dissolved. Boil fast until setting point is reached. Pot in sterilised jars and cover immediately. Store in a dark, airy cupboard.

Kumquat Marmalade

Kumquats are expensive and fiddly to slice, but this is so worth making. I was given this recipe by an Australian friend called Kate Engel.

Makes 3 x 370g (13oz) pots

1kg (2 1⁄4lb) kumquats

1.8kg (4lb) sugar, warmed

Slice the kumquats thinly crossways. Put the seeds into a small bowl with

225ml (8fl oz) of water and leave overnight. Put the kumquats in a larger bowl with 1.5 litres (2.5 pints) of water, cover and also leave overnight. Next day, strain the seeds and reserve the liquid (this now contains the precious pectin, which contributes to the setting of the jam). Discard the seeds. Put the kumquat mixture into a large saucepan with the reserved liquid from the seeds. Bring to the boil, reduce the heat and simmer, covered, for 10 minutes or until the kumquats are very tender.  Remove the lid and reduce to about half the original volume.

Add the warmed sugar and stir until it is fully dissolved. Bring the mixture back to the boil and cook rapidly with the lid off for about 15 minutes. Remove the pan from the

heat while testing for a set by putting a teaspoon of the mixture on a cold saucer (it should barely wrinkle when pressed with a finger) 

Pour into sterilized jars. Cover, seal and store in a cool, dry place

Helen Morgan’s Lime Marmalade

Makes 10 x 200ml (7fl oz) jars

juice and coarsely grated zest of

8 organic limes

2kg (4lb 8oz) sugar, warmed

Put the lime zest and juice into a stainless-steel saucepan. Tie everything that remains into a muslin bag and add to the saucepan with 3 litres (51⁄4 pints) of water. Bring to the boil and simmer until reduced by two-thirds. Remove from the heat. When cool enough to handle, take the muslin bag out.

Place the remaining mixture in a food-processor and whizz until smooth. Add back to the saucepan, bring to the boil and add the warmed sugar. Stir to dissolve. Bring back to the boil and cook until set, about 10–15 minutes. Pour into sterilised jars and seal immediately. Store in a cool, dry place.

How to Heat the Sugar

Heat the sugar in a stainless-steel bowl in a moderate oven for about 15 minutes. It should feel hot to the touch. Be careful not to leave it in too long or the sugar will begin to melt around the edges of the bowl and will eventually caramelize.

Why heat the sugar?

The faster jam is made, the fresher and more delicious it tastes. If you add cold sugar to jam, it will take longer to return to the boil and will taste less fresh

Seville Orange Marmalade Ice Cream

Here is a great way to show off your homemade marmalade. Remove this ice cream from the freezer at least 10 minutes before serving.

Serves 12–16

Ballymaloe Vanilla Ice Cream

zest of 2 organic oranges

4 tablespoons Seville Whole Orange Marmalade

For the Sauce

half a pot (185g/61⁄4oz) Seville Whole Orange Marmalade

juice of 1 orange

Make the Ballymaloe vanilla ice cream, adding in the orange zest to the mousse, and then folding the softly whipped cream into it. Pour into a bowl, cover and freeze.

When the ice cream is semi-frozen, remove it from the freezer. Chop the marmalade peel into 5mm (1⁄4in) pieces and fold with the rest of the marmalade into the ice cream. Cover and freeze.Serve with a little sauce made by thinning the marmalade with orange juice.

Almond Meringues with Kumquat Marmalade and Cream

Serves 6 – 8

Almond meringues

1 1/2 ozs (45g) almonds

2 egg whites

4 1/2 ozs (125g) icing sugar

Filling

kumquat marmalade 3/4 of a 370g (13oz) pot

whipped cream or crème fraiche

First make the meringue.

Check that the bowl is dry, spotlessly clean and free of grease. Blanch and skin the almonds. Grind or chop them up. They should not be ground to a fine powder but should be left slightly coarse and gritty. Mark two 7 1/2 inch (19cm) circles or heart shapes on silicone paper or a prepared baking sheet. Mix all the sugar with the egg whites at once and beat until the mixture forms stiff dry peaks. Fold in the almonds. Divide the mixture between the 2 circles or heart shapes and spread evenly with a palette knife. Bake immediately in a cool oven, 150°C/300°F/regulo 2 for 45 minutes or until crisp they should peel off the paper easily, turn off the oven and allow to cool.

To finish

Put one of the discs of meringue onto a lovely serving plate, spread with a layer of softly whipped cream, top with an even amount of kumquat marmalade. Top with the other disc of meringue. Decorate the top with a few rosettes of cream, kumquats and maybe a few fresh mint leaves.

Marmalade Bread and Butter Pudding

Serves 6-8

This is a variation on basic bread and butter pudding.   If you like, leave out the marmalade and serve plain, or add chopped rhubarb, chopped chocolate, grated lemon or orange zest, raisins, sultanas, cinnamon, nutmeg etc.  This is a great way to use up stale bread, and in fact is better if the bread is stale.

12 slices of good –quality white bread, crusts removed

50g (2 ozs) soft butter

3-4 tablespoons marmalade

450ml (16fl.ozs) cream

225ml (8fl.oz) milk

4 eggs

150g (5 1/2 oz) caster sugar

2 tablespoons granulated sugar 

To Serve

softly whipped cream

marmalade sauce

Preheat the oven to 180°C/350°F/gas 4.  Butter the bread and spread marmalade on each slice.  Arrange the bread butter side down in the gratin dish or in individual cups or bowls (cut the slices if you need to).  I like to have overlapping triangles of bread on the top layer.

Place the cream and milk in a saucepan and bring to just under the boil.  While it’s heating up, in a separate bowl whisk the eggs and the caster sugar, then pour the hot milk and cream in with the eggs and whisk to combine.  Pour this custard over the bread and leave it to soak for 10 minutes. Sprinkle the granulated sugar on top. Place in a bain marie (water bath) and cook in the preheated oven for 1 hour.  The top should be golden and the centre should be just set.  Serve with softly whipped cream and marmalade sauce (see below).

Note: If you want to make this a day ahead of time, don’t heat up the milk and cream, just pour it cold over the bread.

Marmalade Sauce

1 jar (400-450g/14ozs – 1lb) 3 fruit or homemade marmalade

60ml (2 1/2 fl ozs) water

juice of 1/2 – 1 lemon

Put the marmalade into a saucepan.  Add the water and the juice of 1/2 – 1 lemon to taste.  Heat all the ingredients gently.  Place in a jug and serve with the bread and butter pudding.

FoolProof Food

French Toast Fingers with Citrus Marmalade Butter

Serves 4-6

4 eggs free-range and organic if possible

225 ml (8fl oz) full cream milk

2 tablespoons sugar

1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

12 slices, best quality white yeast bread, ¾ inch thick

Sunflower oil or clarified butter

Marmalade butter

110g (4oz) butter softened slightly

2-3 tablespoons citrus marmalade, chopped

Icing sugar in a dredger

First make the Marmalade butter.

Cream the butter and beat in the chopped marmalade. Transfer to a serving bowl. Whisk the eggs well in a bowl with the milk, sugar and vanilla.  Cut the bread into rectangular pieces and soak the bread fingers in batches until they are well saturated but not falling apart. 

Heat a large, preferably non-stick pan over medium heat, add a little oil or clarified butter. Cook the soaked bread fingers, turning, until golden brown, about 1 minute per side.  Serve immediately, or keep warm in the oven.  Repeat with the remaining ingredients.

Transfer the French toast to a hot plate, dredge over a little icing sugar and serve with Marmalade butter.

Hottips

Catex Catering Exhibition is on again at the RDS in Dublin from Tuesday 8th – Thursday 10th February this year. Over 200 exhibitors of equipment, food and beverages disposables, and services. To see the full schedule of events check out www.catexexhibition.com

Congratulations to Michael Quinn – past Ballymaloe Cookery School student who is now Head chef of Waterford Castle –who won Just Ask Restaurant of Month Award in December 2010. Michael is well renowned for using local produce on his menu and he was delighted with the recognition, “The award is about the fantastic artisan producers I work with at the castle. Without these people, chefs like me would find it difficult to succeed. Now is the time to support our own local producers instead of sending our money abroad. We need to think and buy local.” Waterford Castle Phone: +353 51 878 203

How to Keep a few Chickens in the Garden – What could be nicer than a ready supply of beautiful, fresh, free range, organic eggs, or a delicious, plump, succulent free range, organic chicken for the pot? Darina Allen will show you how at Ballymaloe Cookery School Saturday 5^th March 9:30am to 5:00pm. To book www.cookingisfun.ie 021 4646785

Ballymaloe Vanilla Ice Cream

zest of 2 organic oranges

4 tablespoons Seville Whole Orange Marmalade

For the Sauce

half a pot (185g/61⁄4oz) Seville Whole Orange Marmalade

juice of 1 orange

Make the Ballymaloe vanilla ice cream, adding in the orange zest to the mousse, and then folding the softly whipped cream into it. Pour into a bowl, cover and freeze.

When the ice cream is semi-frozen, remove it from the freezer. Chop the marmalade peel into 5mm (1⁄4in) pieces and fold with the rest of the marmalade into the ice cream. Cover and freeze.Serve with a little sauce made by thinning the marmalade with orange juice.

 

Almond Meringues with Kumquat Marmalade and Cream

 

Serves 6 – 8

 

Almond meringues

 

1 1/2 ozs (45g) almonds

2 egg whites

4 1/2 ozs (125g) icing sugar

 

Filling

 

kumquat marmalade 3/4 of a 370g (13oz) pot

whipped cream or crème fraiche

First make the meringue.

Check that the bowl is dry, spotlessly clean and free of grease. Blanch and skin the almonds. Grind or chop them up. They should not be ground to a fine powder but should be left slightly coarse and gritty. Mark two 7 1/2 inch (19cm) circles or heart shapes on silicone paper or a prepared baking sheet. Mix all the sugar with the egg whites at once and beat until the mixture forms stiff dry peaks. Fold in the almonds. Divide the mixture between the 2 circles or heart shapes and spread evenly with a palette knife. Bake immediately in a cool oven, 150°C/300°F/regulo 2 for 45 minutes or until crisp they should peel off the paper easily, turn off the oven and allow to cool.

To finish

Put one of the discs of meringue onto a lovely serving plate, spread with a layer of softly whipped cream, top with an even amount of kumquat marmalade. Top with the other disc of meringue. Decorate the top with a few rosettes of cream, kumquats and maybe a few fresh mint leaves.

Marmalade Bread and Butter Pudding

 

Serves 6-8

 

This is a variation on basic bread and butter pudding.   If you like, leave out the marmalade and serve plain, or add chopped rhubarb, chopped chocolate, grated lemon or orange zest, raisins, sultanas, cinnamon, nutmeg etc.  This is a great way to use up stale bread, and in fact is better if the bread is stale.

12 slices of good –quality white bread, crusts removed

50g (2 ozs) soft butter

3-4 tablespoons marmalade

450ml (16fl.ozs) cream

225ml (8fl.oz) milk

4 eggs

150g (5 1/2 oz) caster sugar

2 tablespoons granulated sugar

To Serve

softly whipped cream

marmalade sauce

Preheat the oven to 180°C/350°F/gas 4.  Butter the bread and spread marmalade on each slice.  Arrange the bread butter side down in the gratin dish or in individual cups or bowls (cut the slices if you need to).  I like to have overlapping triangles of bread on the top layer.

Place the cream and milk in a saucepan and bring to just under the boil.  While it’s heating up, in a separate bowl whisk the eggs and the caster sugar, then pour the hot milk and cream in with the eggs and whisk to combine.  Pour this custard over the bread and leave it to soak for 10 minutes. Sprinkle the granulated sugar on top. Place in a bain marie (water bath) and cook in the preheated oven for 1 hour.  The top should be golden and the centre should be just set.  Serve with softly whipped cream and marmalade sauce (see below).

Note: If you want to make this a day ahead of time, don’t heat up the milk and cream, just pour it cold over the bread.

Marmalade Sauce

 

1 jar (400-450g/14ozs – 1lb) 3 fruit or homemade marmalade

60ml (2 1/2 fl ozs) water

juice of 1/2 – 1 lemon

Put the marmalade into a saucepan.  Add the water and the juice of 1/2 – 1 lemon to taste.  Heat all the ingredients gently.  Place in a jug and serve with the bread and butter pudding.

 

FoolProof Food

French Toast Fingers with Citrus Marmalade Butter

 

Serves 4-6

4 eggs free-range and organic if possible

225 ml (8fl oz) full cream milk

2 tablespoons sugar

1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

12 slices, best quality white yeast bread, ¾ inch thick

Sunflower oil or clarified butter

Marmalade butter

110g (4oz) butter softened slightly

2-3 tablespoons citrus marmalade, chopped

Icing sugar in a dredger

First make the Marmalade butter.

Cream the butter and beat in the chopped marmalade. Transfer to a serving bowl. Whisk the eggs well in a bowl with the milk, sugar and vanilla.  Cut the bread into rectangular pieces and soak the bread fingers in batches until they are well saturated but not falling apart. 

Heat a large, preferably non-stick pan over medium heat, add a little oil or clarified butter. Cook the soaked bread fingers, turning, until golden brown, about 1 minute per side.  Serve immediately, or keep warm in the oven.  Repeat with the remaining ingredients.

Transfer the French toast to a hot plate, dredge over a little icing sugar and serve with Marmalade butter.

Hottips

 

Catex Catering Exhibition is on again at the RDS in Dublin from Tuesday 8th – Thursday 10th February this year. Over 200 exhibitors of equipment, food and beverages disposables, and services. To see the full schedule of events check out www.catexexhibition.com

Congratulations to Michael Quinn – past Ballymaloe Cookery School student who is now Head chef of Waterford Castle –who won Just Ask Restaurant of Month Award in December 2010. Michael is well renowned for using local produce on his menu and he was delighted with the recognition, “The award is about the fantastic artisan producers I work with at the castle. Without these people, chefs like me would find it difficult to succeed. Now is the time to support our own local producers instead of sending our money abroad. We need to think and buy local.” Waterford Castle Phone: +353 51 878 203

How to Keep a few Chickens in the Garden – What could be nicer than a ready supply of beautiful, fresh, free range, organic eggs, or a delicious, plump, succulent free range, organic chicken for the pot? Darina Allen will show you how at Ballymaloe Cookery School Saturday 5^th March 9:30am to 5:00pm. To book www.cookingisfun.ie 021 4646785

A new batch of students have just arrived from far and wide to start the January 12 Week Cooking Course. There are 8 nationalities, lots of Irish and British of course but also American, Dutch, Swedish, German, and two girls from India. On the first morning we walk through the farm and sleepy winter gardens and I introduce them to our gardeners and farm manager and remind them that these are the real food heroes who labour day in day out to produce the wonderful indregients they will be fortunate enough to cook with over the next three months. Then we show them how to sow a seed and give each one of the students a seedling which they plant into the soil in the greenhouse. This time it was coriander, which should be ready to use in about six weeks. I know no better way to give students a respect for food and those who produce it than to show them how to sow a seed. As they watch it grow the excitement and anticipation mounts so they are much more likely to respect it when it gets into the kitchen. In an era when the cheapness of food is a major issue and farmers and food producers are being squeezed more and more, I thought Cork vegetable grower Trevor Martin son of Declan Martin of Waterfall Farm in Cork answer to Ella McSweeney on Ear to the Ground on RTE1 recently hit the nail on the head. When asked by Ella ‘what would you say to those who think vegetables could be cheaper?’ he replied ‘People don’t realise there is a lot of expenditure and work that goes on behind the scenes, they should try growing some vegetables themselves and see’

Fortunately more and more people are discovering the reality of what’s involved but also the thrill of growing your own even if it’s only a fresh few herbs or salad leaves.

More and more chefs too are getting in on the act; they too know how vital really good produce is when trying to create the ‘wow factor’ on the plate. Here in Ireland chefs like Paul Flynn of the Tannery in Dungarvan are leading the way and of course Myrtle Allen of Ballymaloe House has incorporated produce from the walled garden and greenhouses into the menu ever since it opened 46 years ago.

On a recent trip to New Zealand. I discovered that the big buzz down under is about the new breed of gardener-chefs who have discovered that a kitchen garden makes sound sense for a restaurant both financially and aesthetically. Some like Adam Newell of Zibibbo in Wellington got started because he was frustrated by not being able to source the quality and variety of fresh herbs over the winter period and the sheer cost. He understandably wondered “how hard can it be to grow your own?” so he and his co-owner Anthony Shore invested in a few packets of seeds and now have a ready supply from their own garden and now no longer buy in herbs.

When guests come to Riverstone Kitchen in Oamaru – on the South Island – they can get a preview of the seasonal produce that will feature on the menu as they stroll around the 300 square metre garden before dinner.

Charismatic chef, Jonny Schwass of Restaurant Schwass in Christchurch on the South Island is one of the leaders of the movement. When guests ask where the vegetables come from he can truthfully reply from ‘My Garden’ his wittily named vegetable patch at West Malton where his two business partners spend over 30 hours a week cultivating 150 different varieties of herbs and vegetables. The result was reflected on the plate – and in the attitude of the staff who were just as excited as Jonny about the project – our dinner was vibrant and delicious.  Both waiters and chefs are involved and visit the garden and help with the harvesting twice a week. Jonny reckons that restaurants in general “take more than they give” so this is his way of reconnecting with the earth. Most of the new gardener-chefs like Jonny are growing organically but can’t be bothered with certification –

Also in the Christchurch area, the luxury Otahuna Lodge is a beacon. A century ago it was a grand, virtually self sufficient country estate with its own dairy orchards and kitchen garden. Since becoming a luxury lodge in Tai Tapu – just twenty minutes drive from Christchurch city – it has had a new lease of life and has been taken to even greater heights – a potting shed has been converted into a mushroom house, a paddock is now a fertile kitchen garden, pineapples grow in a hothouse, olive trees have been planted and apples, quince and medlars still come from the original orchard. Pork and beef comes from the estate and home cured prosciutto, bresaola and jars of preserved home grown lemons fill the pantry. It was closed during our visit for post earthquake restoration but should reopen soon.

Two other restaurants on the South Island really impressed me, we loved Jason Innes food so much at Amisfield Winery – 15 minutes drive from central Queenstown, on the way to Arrowtown and Wanaka – that we returned twice. He too has a little fresh herb patch beside the restaurant kitchen and goes to considerable lengths to source terrific produce. Our waitress was a delightful ex Anglo banker from Tipperary!

New Zealand has great fish. Our best fish meal was at the buzzy restaurant Fishbone in Queenstown. Owners – Mark Godden, front of house and Darren Lovell, head chef – have also caught the gardening bug. They have a vegetable patch not far from the restaurant and grow beautiful salad leaves, herbs and some vegetables to compliment their spanking fresh fish and shellfish – there are many others– more and more diners appreciate knowing where their produce comes from and a walk through the garden seems to really whet their appetites.

www.tannery.ie

www.ballymaloe.ie

www.zibibbo.co.nz

www.restaurantschwass.com

www.otahuna.co.nz

www.amisfield.co.nz

www.soulbar.co.nz

 

Monkfish Goujons with Harissa and Coriander Mayonnaise

This is my interpretation of a very moreish snack I tasted in Soul a restaurant on the waterfront in Auckland – they used snapper but monkfish works brilliantly here. Great for a starter or finger food. The beer batter produces a crisp coating for fish sometimes I dispense with the water and just use beer.

Serves 6 to 8

450g (1lb)  trimmed monkfish

Beer Batter

250g (9oz) self raising flour

good pinch of salt

4 fl ozs (110ml) beer

6 – 8 fl ozs (175 – 225ml) cold water

Sieve the flour and salt into a bowl.  Make a well in the centre and gradually whisk in the beer and water until the batter is a light coating consistency.

Mayonnaise

1 – 2 tablespoons Harissa

2 tablespoons coarsely chopped fresh coriander leaves

 

 

First make the mayonnaise, add the Harissa and coarsely chopped coriander. Taste and correct seasoning.

Cut the monkfish into fingers, no larger than 1cm (1/3in) square and 7 ½ cm (3in) long. To serve: heat the oil in a deep fry to 180°C. Dip the Goujons one at a time into the batter, shake off excess batter, and cook just a few at a time (test one first to check the seasoning)

Drain well on kitchen paper. Serve immediately in a basket or on a plate with a bowl of Harissa mayonnaise.

Harissa

Makes 100g (3 1/2oz)

10 dried red chillies, soaked in warm water for 20 minutes

5 fresh red chillies

2 cloves of garlic, crushed

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1 teaspoon ground coriander

1/2 teaspoon salt

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

Deseed and roughly chop the dried and fresh chillies.  Put in a food processor with the garlic, cumin, coriander, salt and olive oil.  Whizz until smooth. 

Store in a jar with a layer of olive oil over the top.  It will keep for 3 months.

 

Spiced Cauliflower Florets with Aoili

 

Lots of cauliflower in restaurants in different guises – this little recipe is cheap, cheerful, utterly delicious, filling and seasonal. Here you can omit the cumin entirely if you prefer, the cauliflower fritters will still be delicious.

 

Serves 8 approximately

1 medium cauliflower divided into florets

2 free range eggs

200g (7oz) white flour

125g (4 ½ oz) Parmesan, Desmond, Gabriel or Coolea

125g (4 ½ oz) fine bread crumbs

salt and freshly ground pepper and freshly ground cumin

Aioli (garlic mayonnaise)

Trim the cauliflower leaves and stalks, save and use for cauliflower cheese. Divide cauliflower florets into nice size pieces to pick up.

Bring 1.2 litres (2 pints) water to the boil, add 2 teaspoons of salt. Add the cauliflower florets (do in batches if necessary). Bring back to the boil, cook for 2 to 3 minutes. Remove and refresh under cold water, drain very well.

Make the Aoili and add a teaspoon of freshly ground cumin. Taste, correct seasoning. To serve, heat oil in a deep fry or in a frying pan with 2.5cm (1 in) oil over a medium heat. Dip the florets in flour well seasoned with salt and freshly gound pepper and a little freshly roasted ground cumin. Dip in well beaten egg and first finely grated Parmesan or better still Desmond, Gabriel or mature Coolea – our beautiful Irish cheese. Fry the cauliflower fritters a few at a time in the hot oil, drain on kitchen paper. Serve immediately with a bowl of Aoili to dip.

 

Pork Belly with Green and Black Olive Tapenade

Inspired by a dish I ate at Amisfield Winery near Queenstown on the South Island of New Zealand.

Serves 6 – 8

1 x 2.2kg (5lb) pork belly with crackling

rocket leaves

green and black olive Tapenade (see recipe)

flakes of sea salt

Score the pork at 5mm (¼in) intervals. Sprinkle both the rind and flesh side with salt and allow to season for 2 – 3 hours. Wash and dry well. Preheat the oven to 180°C/350ºF/gas mark 4.  Put the pork, skin side up on a chopping board, season with Maldon sea salt and cracked black pepper.  Pour 1cm (1/2 inch) water into a roasting tin and roast the joint on a wire rack in the roasting tin.  Allow 25-28 minutes per 450g (1lb). Baste with the rendered pork fat every now and then.

Meanwhile make the Green and Black Tapenade.

 

Green and Black Olive Tapenade

75g (3oz) black olives, stoned Kalamata

75g (3oz) green olives, Picholine

2 large cloves garlic, peeled and chopped

2 anchovies

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

Put the olives, garlic, anchovies and olive oil into a food processor and whizz for a few seconds – just long enough to chop the olives fairly coarsely: it shouldn’t be a puree.

Cut a slice of belly 5cm (2in) thick. Choose a rectangular plate if possible. Scatter a few rocket leaves along the plate and lay the piece of pork on top. Drizzle some Tapenade along the plate. Sprinkle the pork with a few flakes of sea salt and serve.

 

Affrogata

Jason Innes from Amisfield Winery served a do-it-yourself Affrogata on a round plate in a cappuccino cup and saucer, a scoop of vanilla ice-cream and a shot of espresso on the side. The diner pours the steaming coffee over the ice cream and tucks in – simple and sublime.

 

Homemade Vanilla Ice-cream

Serves 6-8

This ice-cream is very rich and very delicious, made on an egg mousse base with softly-whipped cream and flavourings added. Ice-creams made in this way have a smooth texture and do not need further whisking during the freezing period. They should not be served frozen hard. Remove from the freezer at least 10 minutes before serving.

50g (2oz) sugar

100ml (4fl oz) water

2 egg yolks, preferably free-range and organic

1/2 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

600ml (1pint) softly whipped cream

Put the egg yolks into a bowl and whisk until light and fluffy (keep the whites for meringues). Combine the sugar and water in a small heavy-bottomed saucepan, stir over heat until the sugar is completely dissolved, then remove the spoon and boil the syrup until it reaches the ‘thread’ stage, 106-113°C (236°F). It will look thick and syrupy; when a metal spoon is dipped in, the last drops of syrup will form thin threads. Pour this boiling syrup in a steady stream onto the egg yolks, whisking all the time. Add vanilla extract and continue to whisk until it becomes a thick creamy white mousse. Fold the softly-whipped cream into the mousse, pour into a bowl, cover and freeze.

 

Hottips

 

These dark evenings are just perfect to rummage through seed catalogues, and plan your raised bed or vegetable plot, however small. The GIY (Grow it Yourself) Ireland website is also a great resource www.giyireland.com tons of great advice and tips from both experienced growers and bewildered beginners. Michael Kelly founder of the GIY (Grow it Yourself) movement in Ireland will speak at Cork Free Choice Consumer Group monthly event on self sufficiency, sustainability and how to get good food from the back garden. Crawford Gallery Café Thursday 27^th January 7:30pm. The entrance of €6.00 includes tea/coffee.

Food Writing Course with Ross Golden Bannon (editor Food and Wine Magazine)- Saturday 19th February 2011 – 9:30am to 5:00pm learn all about the many different styles of food writing (both contemporary and historical) and lots of practical tips including how to best get your work published. www.cookingisfun.ie 021 4646785

New Zealand could teach us a thing or two in a number of food related areas, they are obsessive about keeping plant animal and insect diseases out of the country. So woe betide anyone who tries to smuggle anything in or forgets they have a piece of fruit in the bottom of their bag. There are plenty of warnings at the points of entry, fines for the heedless are substantial and rightly so. Agriculture is a huge part of GNP. Fonterra is the biggest dairy company in the world and is responsible for more than a third of all international dairy trade and 25% of New Zealand’s export earnings. Kiwi dairy farmers are doing well at present.

As in Ireland, New Zealand can grow brilliant grass yet New Zealand butter didn’t seem to be so highly regarded in some foodie circles. Twice when I enquired about the best butter, I was surprised when it was suggested that I buy Lurpak.

In New Zealand, as in this part of the world artisan producers are growing in numbers and their produce despite recession is gaining popularity. Cuisine Wine Country magazine lists not only the top wine makers but the Farmer’s Markets and Artisan Producers and of course câfes and restaurants on both North and South Islands.

Farmers Markets are a good place to get a real insight into what local people are eating. I visited several during the course of a couple of weeks. The Hawkes Bay Farmer’s Market in Hastings is the original and many would say still the best in New Zealand. It’s held every Sunday and is run by a voluntary committee. It’s mid Summer down under now so the stalls were over flowing with fruit and vegetables. The asparagus season was just over but there was a abundance of gorgeous cherries, stone fruit and berries. The New Zealanders have always been great picklers so there were lots of creative combinations made with both exotic garden and wild fruits.

I particularly loved Gernots preserves at the Hawkes Bay Farmers Market – sublime jams and jellies – all made from fruit grown in the local area – Crab apple and saffron Jelly, Apricot and Gin Jam, Tangelo and Cointreau Marmalade…

Another company make a range of delicious products from St Andrews Limes including a superb lime and passion fruit curd, Feijoa and Black Pepper Jelly and a Lime and Fig Marmalade – divine.

The Damson Company in Havelock North had a fantastically good damson paste, damson vinaigrette, damson chocolates and damson liqueur which is just like our damson gin. They have already been a recipient of the Cuisine Artisan Food Awards.

The North Island of New Zealand particularly is blessed with a Mediterranean climate hence the thriving wine and a growing olive oil industry. On the North Island we also made it our business to be in Matakana for the Saturday Farmer’s Market one of the most stylish markets I’ve been to in any country.

We visited various farmers and cheese makers and a Omaha Blueberry farm where Robert and Shannon Auton grow 40 acres of organic blueberries close to the beach. Again they are highly innovative and even though they sell huge quantities of fresh blueberries, they encourage people to come onto the farm to eat their homemade blueberry ice cream, sorbets, yogurt and smoothies. I also visited Heilala Vanilla Company. The vanilla grows on the Pacific Island of Tonga and is processed in Tauranga on the North Island. In just a few short years Heilala Vanilla has swept the boards and beat all comers in blind tastings. They can scarcely keep up the demand for their vanilla extract, concentrated vanilla syrup and of course plump vanilla pods. The enterprise has saved an entire community in Tonga and they plan to market over this side of the world before too long.

The farmhouse cheese industry is also growing, we visited several dairies including Over the Moon in Putaruru on the road between Hamilton and Rotorua. They make a variety of cow, goat and sheepsmilk cheese and have recently set up a highly acclaimed cheese making school. Whangaripo Buffalo Cheese Company was equally fascinating. One normally associates buffalo milk with mozzarella but at present Phil Armstrong nicknamed Buffalo Phil and his lovely wife Annie make a fantastic creamy blue cheese called Marin Blue, a Pecorino type called St Malo, and produce thick unctuous yoghurt. We visited them on their lovely farm in Whangaripo valley and had a little feast of farmhouse cheese and cured sausage and fresh berries on a long table under a canopy in the field below their Summer bach.

They are just a few of the spirited innovative artisan producers we met who are creatively adding value to their produce. Many like Phil and Annie start by doing market research and selling their produce at the Famers Markets and to local chefs but soon are wooed by delis and in some cases supermarkets who are anxious to supply their customers with local food they increasingly demand.

Check out the following websites for more information and inspiration.

www.thedamsoncollection.co.nz

www.overthemoondairy.co.nz/index.php

www.gernotsgold.co.nz

www.oob.co.nz

http://standrewslimes.yolasite.com

Pavlova with Kiwi Fruit or Passion Fruit

Pavlova is the quintessential Kiwi dessert, smothered with cream and seasonal fruit; it’s still a huge favourite.

Serves 6 – 8

4 egg whites

4 ozs (110g/1 cup) castor sugar

2 teasp. cornflour

1 teasp. pure vanilla extract

2 teasp. white malt vinegar

Filling

½ pint (300ml) cream

4-5 kiwi fruit or the pulp of several ripe passion fruit

Garnish: fresh mint or lemon balm, sweet geranium

Preheat the oven to 150C\275F\regulo 1.

Line a baking tray with silicone paper (Bakewell). Check that your bowl and whisk are dry and free of grease. Whisk the egg whites until stiff, then add the castor sugar, little by little at a time. Fold in the cornflour, vanilla extract and vinegar.

Spread the meringue mixture onto a 9 inch (23cm) round or oval on the silicone paper. Bake in the centre of a preheated oven for 45 minutes. Then turn off the oven and leave for a further hourto dry out and crisp. Cool on a wire rack and peel off the paper. Remove from the oven and peel off the paper. Cool on a wire rack. Allow to get quite cold.

To Serve:

Put the pavlova onto a serving plate. Whip the cream softly, smother the pavlova with cream and decorate the top with peeled and sliced kiwi fruit o drizzle with passion fruit puree generously. Garnish with mint or lemon balm leaves

Pikelets

Easy and gorgeous – these little drop scones can be made in minutes, perfect for children to help with also.

　

Makes 30 approximately

　

2 free range eggs

100g (3½oz) caster sugar

275g (10oz) plain white flour

4 teaspoons baking powder

pinch of salt

60g (2 ¼ oz) melted butter

350ml (2fl oz) milk

Whisk the eggs and sugar together. Sieve dry ingredients together and fold gently into the base. Gradually whisk in the milk and finally the melted butter.

Heat the cast iron pan on a medium heat. Brush with a very little oil, put tablespoons of the batter well apart on the pan. Cook on one side until the bubbles burst, about 2 minutes. Flip over and continue to cook on the other side until golden. Eat warm with butter and caster sugar.

Passion Fruit Melting Moments

Makes 24

　

250g (9oz) butter

60g (2½ oz) icing sugar

210g (7 ½ oz) plain white flour

50g (2oz) cornflour

Filling

50 g (2oz) butter

60g (2½ oz) icing sugar

sieved pulp of one ripe passion fruit

Preheat the oven to 180°C/350°F/ Mark 4.

Cream, the butter and icing sugar and beat until fluffy. Stir in the sieved flours. The mixture should be stiff but crumbly. Pipe into rosettes or form little balls and flatten with a fork in a criss cross pattern. Bake for 12 – 15 minutes. Cool on a wire rack.

Meanwhile make the filling, cream the butter, add the icing sugar and the sieved pulp of ripe passion fruit, beat until light and creamy Sandwich the melting moments together with a little of the passion fruit filling. Dredge with icing sugar and serve.

　

Rocky Road

Scary stuff but addictive, so antipodean – another great favourite down under.

Makes 10 x 10cm (4 x 4 in)

450g (1lb) chocolate dark (62% cocoa solids)

450g (1lb) marshmallows

175g (6oz) toasted hazelnuts

175g (6oz) almonds, toasted

175g (6oz) jelly beans

50g (2oz) cherries

20.5cm (8in) square tin lined with silicone paper

Melt the chocolate gently in a Pyrex bowl tepid water, allow to cool but while still liquid stir in the marshmallow, nuts, jelly beans and cherries. Toss gently to coat in the chocolate. Pour evenly into a lined tin and allow to set. Cut into 5cm (2in)

Slices.

　

450g (Ilb) Rocky Road

1.65 litres (2 ¼ pints) Vanilla Ice Cream

Cut rocky road into pieces, fold into ice cream, freeze and enjoy.

Jeff’s Redcurrant Tart

Serves 10 approximately

 

Jeff Bryant made this delicious tart especially for us with fresh red currants from his garden in Queenstown.

 

½ cup chopped walnuts (or hazelnuts/almonds) toasted

1 tbsp white or Demerara sugar

150g (5oz) butter

225g (8oz) sugar

2 large eggs

1 tsp vanilla

165g (6oz) self-raising flour

1 tsp baking powder

450g (1lb) of fruit (most other fruit could be substituted for the red currants)

Mix chopped, toasted nuts with first quantity of sugar and nonchalantly put aside.

Melt the butter in microwave bowl or in pot until just soft/liquid.　 Add the cup of sugar, the eggs and vanilla and beat recklessly until blended.　 Shake in the flour and bp and mix in with half the nut and sugar mix.

Spread the cake batter evenly in a buttered or sprayed 23-25 cm round (loose bottomed) cake tin.　 Mixture raises as it cooks.

Place fruit (peeled/stoned/hulled whatever) over the mixture, press some in lightly into the base first, and then sprinkle over the rest of the sugar and nut mix with indifference.

Bake at 180°C/350°F/Mark 4 for about 40 minutes until cake has risen around the fruit and browned lightly.

Serve warm (if as a dessert) with an air of insouciance and a dollop of cream!

　

Mahon Point Farmers Market re-opens on Thursday 13^{th January and Midleton and Douglas Farmers Markets re-open on Saturday 15th January, 2011.www.cookingisfun.ie for more information. Bursaries available.www.organicrepublic.ie organicrepublic@gmail.com 0863623918.}

Learn how to grow vegetables, herbs, fruit and cut flowers.

Earn your living from your gardening skills – The Ballymaloe Cookery School inaugural Diploma in Practical Horticulture begins Monday 28th February 2011. See

In season… Marmalade oranges are in the shops now; organic Seville oranges are available from Catriona Daunt from Organic Republic who also deliver seasonal organic (certified) fruit and vegetable boxes in Cork city and suburbs. Order a box every two weeks or weekly, minimum box price €20.00

People just love to bake. The smell of a freshly baked cake or a tray of biscuits coming out of the oven always brings a smile and a feeling of comfort and warmth.

This week a few of my favourite things to bake and share or sell for that matter. Tiny scones are made in minutes; instead of traditional butter and jam or cream why not try a dab of orange or coffee butter cream. The sour cherry Amaretti are relatively new to our repertoire – a delicious recipe given to me by Yotam Ottolenghi and Sami Tamimi when they taught here last year. A tin of bakewell slices with toasted almonds on top can be served with a cup of coffee or as a pudding with a jug of custard or a bowl of softly whipped cream. Brownies are a perennial favourite, these have some banana added and are a terrific way to using up a couple of ripe bananas. Almond macaroons are gluten free. Chocolate chip cookies are also a brilliant standby, you can make a batch, and then shape it into rolls, some can be frozen and some just popped into the oven immediately. I have several recipes for what are called refrigerator cookies – they must have an American origin but they are terrific to know about and are the best standby to have – just slice a few rounds, pop them into the oven and by the time the tea is made they’ll be ready to enjoy.

In general, I find a conventional oven best for baking, a fan assisted oven is a more drying heat perfect for meringues but cakes and biscuits cooked in this type of oven seem to stale faster. But this is not a problem if they are delicious – they won’t be around long enough for it to matter.

 

Yotam’s Sour Cherry Amaretti

A totally delicious biscuit and with the added bonus of being gluten free.

Makes about 20

180g (6 1/4 ozs) ground almonds

120g (4 1/4 ozs) caster sugar

grated zest of 1 lemon

3 drops of natural almond extract

a pinch of salt

60g (2 1/2 ozs) dried sour cherries, roughly chopped

2 free-range egg whites

2 teaspoons honey

plenty of icing sugar for rolling

Preheat the oven to 170°C/325ºF/Gas Mark 3.

Put the ground almonds, sugar, lemon zest, almond extract and salt in a large bowl and rub with your fingertips to disperse the zest and essence evenly. Add the cherries and set aside.

Using a manual or electric whisk beat the egg whites and honey until they reach a soft meringue consistency. Gently fold the meringue into the almond mixture. At this stage you should have a soft, malleable paste.

With your hands, form the mixture into 20 irregular shapes. Roll them in plenty of icing sugar, and then arrange them on a baking tray lined with baking parchment. Place in the oven and bake for about 12 minutes. The biscuits should have taken on some colour but remain relatively pale and chewy in the centre. Leave to cool completely before indulging, or storing them in a sealed jar.

 

Rachel’s Bakewell Bars

Makes 12 Bars

75g (3oz) butter, softened

25g (1oz) caster sugar

1 egg yolk

175g (6oz) plain flour, plus extra for dusting

200g (7oz) raspberry jam (see recipe)

Topping

100g (3 1/2oz) butter, melted and cooled slightly

2 eggs, beaten

a few drops of almond essence

100g (3 1/2oz) ground almonds

100g (3 1/2oz) semolina

100g (3 1/2oz) caster sugar

flaked almonds for sprinkling

20 x 20cm (8 x 8 inch) square cake tin

Preheat the oven to 180°C/350°F/Gas Mark 4.

Butter the sides of the cake tin and line the base with greaseproof paper.

First, make the biscuit base.  Cream the butter in a large bowl or in an electric food mixer until soft.  Add the sugar and beat until the mixture is light and fluffy.  Add the egg yolk and mix well, then sift in the flour and mix together to form a dough.

Roll the pastry out on a lightly floured work surface to the right size to fit the base of the tin and then press into the prepared tin.  Spread the raspberry jam over the top then allow to chill in the fridge while you make the topping.

Place the melted butter in a bowl, add the beaten eggs and almond essence and mix well.  Stir in the ground almonds, semolina and caster sugar.

Take the tin out of the fridge and spread the almond dough over the jam, being careful not to mess up the jam too much.  (I usually place the almond dough in dots over the jam, then join it all together using the back of a spoon).

Sprinkle the top with the flaked almonds and bake in the oven for 25-30 minutes or until golden and set in the centre.  Allow to cool in the tin, then cut into fingers.

 

Banana Nut Brownies

 

Moist, rich and delicious.  Can be an irresistible nibble or a gorgeous pud with a blob of crème fraiche.

 

Makes 24 medium or 18 large squares

175g (6oz) butter, cut into dice

300g (10oz) light muscovado sugar (5ozs caster sugar and 5ozs soft brown sugar)

175g (6oz) dark chocolate, broken into pieces

100g (4oz) self-raising flour

1 teaspoon baking powder

100g (4oz) walnuts and hazelnuts chopped

3 organic eggs

2 ripe bananas, mashed

Preheat oven to 180ºC/350ºF/Gas Mark 4

20cm x 30cm (8 x 12 inch) swiss roll tin (deep tin)

Line the swiss roll tin with silicone paper.  Put the butter, sugar and chocolate in a saucepan on a gentle heat stirring until it’s smooth and melted.  Remove the pan from the heat, cool a little

Sieve the flour and the baking powder, add the chopped nuts.  Beat the eggs and add to the chocolate.  Add the mashed banana to the chocolate mixture.  Finally add the chocolate mixture into the flour, mix well and pour into the prepared tin.  Bake in the preheated oven for 30 minutes or until almost firm in the centre.  Cool in the tin, then turn out and cut into squares.

 

Chocolate Chip Cookies 

 

Makes about 36-40, depending on size

225g (8ozs) butter

200g (7oz) brown sugar

165g (6oz) castor sugar

2 eggs, preferably free range

1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

350g (12 oz) plain white flour

1 teaspoon baking powder

1 teaspoon baking soda

pinch of salt

150g (5oz) chocolate chips

100g (3 1/2 ozs) chopped nuts – hazelnuts

Preheat the oven to 180°C/350°F/gas mark 4.

Cream the butter add the sugars and beat until light and fluffy.  Add in the egg bit by bit, then the vanilla extract.

Mix the dry ingredients together and fold them in.  Lastly, add the chocolate chips and the chopped nuts.

Divide the mixture into 7g (1/4 oz) pieces, for teeny weeny pieces, or 25g (1oz) for medium sized or 50g (2oz) for American style cookies onto baking sheets. Remember to allow lots of room for spreading.  Bake for about 8-10 minutes, depending on size. Cool for a few minutes on the tray and then transfer to wire racks.  Store in an airtight container.

 

Coffee and Walnut Scones

 

In the US scones are rarely eaten with butter or cream so be generous with the icing. I came across this version in a tea-shop in Manhattan.

Makes 18-20 scones using a 7½cm (3inch) cutter, or twice as many if you use a smaller cutter. Without the icing they freeze brilliantly.

900 g (2lb) flour

pinch of salt

50g (2oz) castor sugar

170g (6oz) butter

3 heaped teaspoons baking powder

3 free range eggs

2-3 tablespoons coffee essence

425ml (15floz) approx. milk to mix

140g (5oz) walnuts, chopped coarsely

Coffee Icing

 

450g (1lb) icing sugar

scant 2 tablespoons Irel coffee essence

4 tablespoons boiling water approx.

First preheat the oven to 250C/475F/gas mark 9.

Sieve all the dry ingredients together. Rub in the butter and add the chopped walnuts.  Make a well in the centre. Whisk the eggs and coffee essence with the milk, add to the dry ingredients and mix to a soft dough. Turn out onto a floured board.  Knead lightly, just enough to shape into a round.  Roll out to about 2½cm (1inch) thick and stamp into scones.  Put onto a baking sheet. Bake in a hot oven for 10-15 minutes until golden brown on top. Cool on a wire rack.

Meanwhile make the coffee icing: Sieve the icing sugar into a bowl.  Add coffee essence and enough boiling water to make it the consistency of thick cream.

Spread each scone generously with coffee icing.  Allow to set.

Almond and Orange Florentines

 

One of my all time favourite restaurants in London is Ottolenghi. This recipe comes from Ottolenghi The Cookbook – published by Ebury Press.

Makes about 20

vegetable oil for brushing

2 organic egg whites

100g (3 1/2oz) icing sugar

260g (9 1/2oz) flaked almonds

grated zest of 1 orange

Preheat the oven to 150ºC/300ºF/Gas Mark 2.

Line a heavy baking tray with greaseproof paper and lightly brush with vegetable oil. Next to you have a small bowl with some cold water.

In a mixing bowl place together the whites, sugar, almonds and zest. Mix them gently until blended. Dip your hand in the bowl of water and pick up portions of the mix to make little mounds on the lined tray, well spaced apart.

Dip a fork in the water and flatten each biscuit very thinly. You want to make the biscuits as thin as possible without creating many gaps between the almond flakes.

Place the baking tray in the oven and bake approximately 12 minutes, until biscuits are golden brown. Check underneath one biscuit to make sure they are cooked through.

Allow to cool down well. Gently, using a palette knife, remove the biscuits from the baking sheet and into a sealed jar.

Refrigerator Cookies

 

Such a terrific recipe to have up your sleeve. The dough can also be flavoured with chopped walnuts and hazelnuts, orange or lemon zest, ground ginger or almonds.

 

Makes 50 approximately

225g (8oz) butter

225g (8oz) caster sugar

1 organic egg

1 tablespoon double cream

300g (10oz) plain flour

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon baking powder

pure vanilla extract (or lemon juice or ground ginger)

Castor sugar

Cream the butter and caster sugar in a bowl, then stir in the beaten egg, cream, flour, salt, baking powder and vanilla extract.  Shape the dough into a long roll or rolls, about 5cm (2 inches or smaller if you prefer) in diameter, and wrap in silicone paper or foil.  Chill in the fridge until the next day. 

Preheat the oven to 190ºC/375ºF/Gas Mark 5.

Cut the dough into thin rounds, no more than ¼ inch rounds. Arrange well apart on 1 baking tray.  Sprinkle them with castor sugar and cook for about 10 minutes in the preheated oven until they are a pale golden colour.  Transfer to a wire rack.  There is no need to bake the dough all at once; cut off what you need and put the rest back in the fridge until you fancy another bikki.

If you would like different flavours, divide the dough into three, and flavour each mixture differently. 

 

Ginger Nuts

 

Irish people have loved ginger ever since it started coming to these islands, and ginger nuts still account for a good chunk of Irish biscuit sales.  These homemade ones make an excellent substitute!  They’ll keep for ages in a tin if you can hide them away.

Makes 58

350g (12oz) white flour

150g (5oz) sugar

2 level teaspoons ginger, ground

2 level teaspoon bicarbonate of soda

175ml (6fl oz) golden syrup (290g/8 1/2oz in weight)

150g (5oz) butter

Preheat the oven to 180°C/350°F/gas mark 4.

Sieve the dry ingredients together into a bowl.  Meanwhile, warm the syrup gently.  Rub the butter into the dry ingredients.  Add the warm syrup and mix well.  Roll the mixture into walnut-sized balls and arrange well apart on a baking tray lined with silicone paper. Bake in your preheated oven for 15-20 minutes.  Leave on the tray for 2-3 minutes, then lift off with an egg slice and cool on a wire rack.

Snow Balls

 

Makes about 35

These delicious biscuits keep for ages in a tin, but they are so irresistible that they are seldom around for very long!

110g (4 oz) butter

2 tablespoons castor sugar

3 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

140g (5 oz) pecans

140g (5 ozs) plain white flour

icing sugar

Preheat the oven to 300F/150C/regulo 2.

Cream the butter, add the castor sugar and beat until soft and light. Grind the nuts finely in a food processor, mix with the butter and sugar, add the sieved flour and vanilla extract. Pinch off teaspoonfuls of the mixture and roll into balls. Place well apart on greased baking sheets. Bake for 30 minutes or until pale and golden. 

Remove from the oven and roll quickly in icing sugar. Handle the pecan puffs very carefully as they will be fragile, brittle and extremely hot!  Return to the oven and bake for 1 minute, to set the sugar. Cool on a wire rack. Store in an airtight tin. Dust each layer with icing sugar. Separate each layer with greaseproof paper.

Fool Proof Food

 

Almond Macaroons

 

Makes 12-16

These are so simple to make and can easily keep for 4-5 days in an airtight container.

4ozs (110g) desiccated coconut or ground almonds

3ozs (75g) caster sugar

1 egg white, lightly beaten

Preheat the oven to 180°C/350°F/gas 4.  Put the desiccated coconut or ground almonds, caster sugar and the egg white into a bowl and stir to combine.  It should be firm, but slightly sticky.  Roll small dessertspoonfuls of the mixture into balls and place on a baking tray lined with parchment paper.  Flatten slightly with a wet fork.  Cook for about 10 minutes or until pale golden.  Cool on a wire rack.

Note: These are also good with the grated zest of 1 lemon or orange mixed in with the coconut/almonds and sugar.

 

Hottips

 

The Soil Association Annual Conference – always an inspiration – will be held in Manchester Town Hall 9^th and 10^th February, 2011 – a two day public debate on Food and Farming. Tickets are available at www.soilassociation.org/shop

 

Irish Maol Cattle

Kerry beef farmer Patrick O’Sullivan from Ardfort who rears rare Irish Maol cattle has a number of animals for sale at present. This traditional Irish breed is a hardy dual purpose animal which produces both high quality beef and milk.  The name Moile is derived from the Gaelic language and relates to the distinctive dome or mound on top of the head. In the 20^th Century the breed declined in numbers as it was superseded by new more specialised breeds. The handsome hornless cattle can thrive and develop their unique flavour on rough terrain and deserve to be better known and appreciated. Interested chefs and butchers should contact Patrick on 0876472683 or contact the Irish Moile Society – 048-2588030 www.irishmoiledcattlesociety.com

The best chocolate biscuit recipe I have tasted for ages can be found on Rory O’Connell’s new food blog www.roryoconnell.blogspot.com

Nowadays more than ever before we need comfort food! So I’m going to devote my first column of the year to simple homely dishes guaranteed to warm and cheer the family when they traipse in tired and hungry from school or after a long days work. Hearty wholesome dishes that will fill the kitchen with the smell of delicious home cooking. The sort of food that everyone will want to tuck into around the kitchen table.

A few weekends ago, when I was down in Kerry at the Listowel Food Fair, I popped into see Mary Keane in JB Keane’s pub in Church Street.  Mary is a hugely entertaining woman with a lyrical Kerry lilt and a no nonsense approach to life – she loves her food and brought me into her own kitchen to teach me how to make proper Listowel Pies some time ago. When we were chatting away about food, Mary reminded us that ‘the kitchen table is a fierce important thing in every home’ – how right she is and how quickly many of us have abandoned it for the sofa in front of the telly. So perhaps this is the time for a New Year resolution to ban the ‘damn telly’ out of the kitchen or at least have an unbreakable rule that it doesn’t get switched on during meal times. Even if people are arguing it keeps the lines of communication open!

Better still, cook together – peeling and chopping really can be fun when everyone is chatting, squabbling and having a laugh. It helps to share the workload and best of all it passes on the cooking skills in an effortless easy way. While times were good many didn’t reckon it was worth bothering to learn how to cook but boy, have we had a wake up ‘call’. In changed circumstances we now realise the value of being able to scramble a few eggs or whip up a spontaneous pasta. So how about a delicious bubbly cauliflower cheese, spaghetti and meat balls, chicken and broccoli gratin or a strata, the latter is the savoury version of bread and butter pudding. My current favourite is Butternut Squash and Sage Strata from Alice’s Cookbook – published by Quadrille – by Alice Hart, a name to watch.  Alice serves it with garlic toast but on New Years day it would be good with a big green salad of Winter leaves with a new seasons olive oil dressing.

Follow it up with a steamed pudding, apple fritters, or an old fashioned rice pudding with a golden skin on top – perfect for a chilly January day.

 

Meatballs with Spaghetti and Fresh Tomato Sauce

 

If you’d prefer the, the minced beef mixture can be shaped into a burger, fried and tucked into a soft bun.

 

Serves 6

Meatballs

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

1 onion, peeled and finely chopped

1 garlic clove, peeled and crushed

900g (2lbs) freshly minced beef

2 tablespoons chopped fresh herbs, such as marjoram, or a mixture of parsley, chives and thyme leaves

1 organic egg, beaten

salt and freshly ground black pepper

 

Tomato Sauce

3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

225g (8oz) onion, peeled and sliced

1 garlic clove, peeled and crushed

900g (2lbs) ripe, peeled and chopped tomatoes or 2 x 400g (14ozs) tins chopped tomatoes (or use

salt, freshly ground black pepper and sugar

To serve

3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

150g (5ozs) Cheddar cheese or a mixture of Mozzarella and Parmesan, grated

450g (1lb) spaghetti

Garnish

flat parsley leaves

First make the meatballs, heat the olive oil in a heavy, stainless-steel saucepan over a gentle heat and add the chopped onions and garlic.  Cover and sweat on a gentle heat for 8-10 minutes until soft and slightly golden. Allow to cool.

Put the freshly minced beef into a bowl, add the cold sweated onion and garlic, add the herbs and the beaten egg.  Season the mixture to taste.  Fry a tiny bit to check the seasoning and adjust if necessary.  Divide the mixture into about 24 round meatballs. Cover and refrigerate.

Meanwhile, make the tomato sauce.  Heat the oil in a casserole or a stainless-steel saucepan.  Add the sliced onion and crushed garlic, toss until coated, cover and sweat over a gentle heat until soft.  Add the peeled and chopped tomatoes, mix and season with salt, freshly ground pepper and a pinch of sugar (tinned tomatoes take more sweetening).  Cover and simmer for 15 minutes, uncover and continue to cook for 15-20 minutes or until thick and unctuous. 

Heat a frying pan over a medium heat; add 3 tablespoons of extra virgin olive oil. Cook the meatballs for 8-10 minutes turning from time to time.  When they are cooked, transfer to an ovenproof serving dish. Add to the hot tomato sauce, turn gently to cover.  Pop into a preheated oven at 180°C/350°F/Gas Mark 4.  Meanwhile, cook the spaghetti in a large saucepan of boiling water.  Drain and turn into a hot serving dish.  Spoon the meatballs and tomato sauce over the top, sprinkle with grated Cheddar or a mixture of Mozzarella and Parmesan.  Sprinkle with lots of flat parsley leaves.

Cauliflower Cheese

This recipe is also perfect for Romanesco and if you want to make it more robust one could add a little diced chorizo or crispy bacon.

Serves 6-8

1 medium sized cauliflower with green leaves

salt

Mornay Sauce

600ml (1 pint) milk with a dash of cream

a slice of onion

3-4 slices of carrot

6 peppercorns

sprig of thyme or parsley

roux

salt and freshly ground pepper

150g (5oz) grated cheese, e.g. cheddar or a mixture of Gruyére, Parmesan and Cheddar

1/2 teaspoon mustard

Garnish

Chopped parsley

Preheat the oven to 230°C/450°F/gas mark 8.

Prepare and cook the cauliflower. Remove the outer leaves and wash both the cauliflower and the leaves well.  Put not more than 1 inch (2.5cm) water in a saucepan just large enough to take the cauliflower; add a little salt.  Chop the leaves into small pieces and cut the cauliflower in quarters or eighths; place the cauliflower on top of the green leaves in the saucepan, cover and simmer until cooked, 10-15 minutes approx. Test by piercing the stalk with a knife, there should be just a little resistance. 

Meanwhile make the Mornay Sauce. Put the cold milk into a saucepan with the onion, carrot, peppercorns and herb.  Bring to the boil, simmer for 3-4 minutes, and remove from the heat and leave to infuse for 10 minutes.

Strain out the vegetables, bring the milk back to the boil and thicken with roux to a light coating consistency. Add most of the grated cheese (reserving enough to sprinkle over the dish) and a little mustard. Season with salt and freshly ground pepper, taste and correct the seasoning if necessary. Spoon the sauce over the cauliflower and sprinkle with the remainder of the grated cheese. The dish may be prepared ahead to this point.

Put into the preheated oven or under the grill to brown. If the cauliflower cheese is allowed to get completely cold, it will take 20-25 minutes to reheat in a moderate oven. 180°C/350°F/gas mark 4.  Serve sprinkled with chopped parsley.

 

Gratin of Chicken and Broccoli

 

Serves 4-6

This is one of those dishes that can be mouth-watering or a complete disaster. Its success depends on the broccoli being carefully cooked so that it is bright green and just tender.

1 x 1.5kg (3lbs 5ozs) chicken*, free range if possible

2 carrots, sliced

2 onions, sliced

sprig each of thyme and tarragon

a few peppercorns

300ml (1/2 pint) homemade chicken stock

450g (1lb) broccoli florets

110g (4ozs) mushrooms, sliced

knob of butter

175ml (6fl ozs) milk

150ml (1/4 pint) cream

2 teaspoons tarragon or annual marjoram

roux

25g (1oz) buttered crumbs (see recipe)

1-2oz (25-50g) grated mature cheddar cheese

lasagne dish (25.5 x 20.5cm) 10 x 8 inch

Put the chicken into a saucepan or casserole with the onions and carrots, add a sprig of thyme, tarragon and a few peppercorns. Pour in the stock, bring to the boil, cover and simmer for 1-1/4 hours or until the chicken is tender.

Meanwhile cook the broccoli florets in boiling salted water until al dente (see recipe). Drain and refresh under cold water, keep aside. Sauté the mushrooms in the butter on a hot pan season with salt and freshly ground pepper and keep aside also.

When the chicken is cooked remove the meat from one side and carve into bite-sized pieces. Keep the rest for another recipe,* or double the rest of the ingredients.

Strain and degrease the cooking liquid, add the cream and milk, bring to the boil, add the tarragon or annual marjoram, simmer for a few minutes, thicken to a light coating consistency with roux, then add the chicken to the sauce. Season with salt and freshly ground pepper.

Butter an ovenproof lasagne dish, put a layer of broccoli on the base, scatter the mushrooms on top and cover with the creamy chicken mixture.

Mix the Buttered Crumbs with the grated cheese and sprinkle over the surface. Reheat in a moderate oven 180°C/350°F/gas mark 4 for 15-20 minutes and flash under the grill until the top is crunchy and golden. Serve immediately.

Buttered Crumbs

2 ozs (50g) butter

4 ozs (110g) soft white breadcrumbs

Melt the butter in a pan and stir in the breadcrumbs. Remove from the heat immediately and allow to cool.

Roux

 

4 ozs (110 g) butter

4 ozs (110 g) flour

Melt the butter and cook the flour in it for 2 minutes on a low heat, stirring occasionally.  Use as required.  Roux can be stored in a cool place and used as required or it can be made up on the spot if preferred.  It will keep at least a fortnight in a refrigerator.

 

 

Treacle Pudding

The name is a bit misleading because we use golden syrup instead of treacle. It’s sweet and sticky and lovely.

Serves 4–6

7g (1⁄4oz) soft butter

2 tablespoons golden syrup

juice of 1⁄2 lemon (about  2 tablespoons)

2 tablespoons white breadcrumbs

110g (4oz) butter

110g (4oz) golden caster sugar

2 organic eggs

150g (5oz) self-raising flour

grated zest of 1 organic lemon

2 tablespoons milk

For the Sauce

3 tablespoons golden syrup

3 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice

600ml (1 pint) pudding bowl

Brush the bottom of the bowl with soft butter. Mix the syrup with the lemon juice and breadcrumbs. Spoon around the base of the bowl. Cream the butter, add the caster sugar and beat until light and fluffy. Add the eggs, one at a time, beating well between each addition. Stir in the flour and grated lemon zest, add enough milk to make a softish mixture. Spoon into the bowl. Cover and steam for 11⁄4 hours. After steaming, carefully remove from the pan and let sit for 5 minutes. Remove paper. Carefully turn it upside down onto a warm serving dish (the syrup will be scalding hot). Serve with lightly whipped cream or Homemade Custard

To steam a pudding

Choose a deep saucepan with a tight-fitting lid. Fill about halfway with water and bring to the boil. Lower the pudding into the saucepan. Cover and boil gently for required time. Keep checking the water level regularly – it needs to remain at least halfway up the bowl.

To cover a pudding bowl

Take two layers of silicone or greaseproof paper or tin foil and pleat in the centre to allow for expansion. Lay flat on top of the bowl – there should be enough to come down over the sides. Secure the ledge with cotton string. Make a handle for ease of lifting.

 

Apple Fritters

Funny how one sometimes forgets a recipe; we hadn’t had these for ages, but I remembered them recently and they taste just as good as ever. As children we particularly loved fritters because they used to fry into funny shapes, which caused great hilarity. These can also be shallow-fried in a pan. You can add a teaspoon of cinnamon to the sugar to toss the apples in for extra flavour. Serves 6–8

110g (4oz) plain white flour

pinch of salt

1 organic egg

150ml (5fl oz) milk

good-quality vegetable oil, for frying

450g (1lb) cooking apples (about 4), Bramley’s Seedling or Grenadier

225g (4oz) caster sugar

Sieve the flour and salt into a bowl. Make a well in the centre and drop in the egg. Use a whisk to bring in the flour gradually from the edges, slowly adding in the milk at the same time. Leave the batter in a cool place for about 1 hour.

Heat the oil in a deep-fryer to 180°C (350°F). Peel and core the apples. Cut into rings, no thicker than 1cm (1⁄4in). Dip the rings into the batter and lift out with a skewer, allowing the surplus batter to drain off, then drop into hot fat, a few at a time. Fry until golden brown, drain well on kitchen paper. Toss each fritter in caster sugar. Serve immediately on hot plates with softly whipped cream.

 

 

Old Fashioned Rice Pudding

A creamy rice pudding is one of the greatest treats on a cold winter’s day. You need to use short-grain rice, which plumps up as it cooks. This is definitely a forgotten pudding and it’s unbelievable the reaction we get to it every time we make it at the Cookery School. It’s always the absolute favourite pudding at my evening courses. Serves 6–8

100g (31⁄2oz) pearl rice (short-grain rice)

50g (2oz) sugar

small knob of butter

1. 2 litres (2 pints) milk

1 x 1. 2 litre (2 pint) capacity pie dish

Preheat the oven to 180ºC/350ºF/gas mark 4.

Put the rice, sugar and butter into a pie dish. Bring the milk to the boil and pour over. Bake for 1–1 1⁄2 hours. The skin should be golden, the rice underneath should be cooked through and have soaked up the milk, but still be soft and creamy. Time it so that it’s ready just in time for pudding. If it has to wait in the oven for ages it will be dry and dull and you’ll wonder why you bothered.

Three good things to serve with rice pudding:

•           Softly whipped cream and soft brown sugar

•           Compote of apricots and cardamom

•           Compote of sweet apples and rose geranium

 

 

Hottips

 

Art student Eileen Hutton studied at the Burren School of Art. The nest she built at Ballymaloe Cookery School from hazel twigs and moss were responsibly removed from Slieve Carron Nature Reserve as part of the Burren Conservation Volunteers’ effort. The nest will be on public view from 9am to 6pm in the conservatory at Ballymaloe Cookery School until the end of January. www.eileenhutton.com

The Cook’s Book of Ingredients published by Penguin is the ultimate visual reference guide to ingredients from around the world, enabling cooks to learn how to choose top-quality produce, and get great results in the kitchen. The book features over 250 classic recipes from basil pesto to fruity jams, helping readers to get the most out of each ingredient, and create dishes they will enjoy again and again.

New Seasons Olive Oil – the first of the new seasons extra virgin olive oil is available in the Ballymaloe Cookery School Shop – a perfect present for a special foodie friend. 021 4646785.

Lots of last minute preparation still to be done despite your best intentions? Don’t worry we are all in the same boat!  In this Christmas Eve column I thought I’d concentrate on easy suppers and little nibbles. If you have even a few minutes to dash to the shops or market, make sure to stock up with some of Fingal Ferguson’s Gubbeen salami and chorizo and some good smoked fish. Just nibble the cured sausage or use for Chorizo fritters. If you want to splash out, some of Frank Hederman’s smoked eel or mussels are a memorable treat. If funds are running low, smoked mackerel is less expensive but equally delicious. Don’t miss the smoked haddock or hake either, it’s a foodie feast when thinly sliced and drizzled with sweet dill mayonnaise. I also love Ummera, Woodcock Smokery and Bill Casey’s organic Shanagarry smoked salmon, always a terrific standby served with Ballymaloe Brown Yeast Bread. A few Irish farmhouse cheeses are also a

must-have and a melted Gubbeen would be perfect for an easy Christmas Eve supper around the fire with crusty bread or potato wedges to dip into the gooey cheese.

There are so many Irish farmhouse cheeses to serve proudly it’s difficult to choose. I’ve got a gorgeous Durrus ripening up, a Bellingham Blue from Castlebellingham, Co Louth, a Clonmore Goat Cheese from Tom Biggane and a Cáis Rua from Fermoy Cheese. Remember your local farmhouse cheese makes a perfect inexpensive present and buying locally has the extra feel good factor of putting money back into your own community. I love to serve a little membrillo (quince paste) with farmhouse cheese, this is available at most cheese shops and at Farmer’s Market stands, it keeps forever and you’ll buy a nice slab for a couple of euro. A few Turkish figs tied on raffia string are also great with cheese as are plump Medjool dates. I get the former at Urru in Bandon and the Village Greengrocer in Castlemartyr among others sell great Medjool dates in the midst of local and exotic fruit and vegetables.

I’ve also picked out a few simple dishes to share with family and friends. How about Baked Eggs with Creamy Kale, this comes from Rachel’s new book Entertaining at Home. Parmesan custards with anchovy toasts are irresistible too. I’m ‘over’ mulled wine but still love mulled apple juice – let’s fill our glasses, make a toast with this one, Happy Christmas to all our readers.  2011 will be great after all things can only get better – surely and remember every day a little treat!

 

Mulled Apple Juice

 

Serves 8

1 orange preferably unwaxed

1 x 750ml (1 1/4 pints) bottle pure apple juice

1 x 750ml (1 1/4 pints) bottle water

12 whole cloves

3 small cinnamon sticks

75g (3ozs) golden castor sugar

6 all spice or pimento berries

1/2 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

Wash the orange in warm water, remove the rind in strips with a swivel top peeler, and juice the orange.  Pour the apple juice and water into a stainless steel saucepan add the rind, juice and cloves with the rest of the spices and sugar.  Heat gently. Taste, add more sugar if necessary.

Serve warm but not too hot.

Frank Hederman’s Smoked Haddock with Sweet Dill Mayonnaise

 

1 fillet of Smoked Haddock

Serve with

sweet dill mayonnaise (see below)

Slice the haddock very thinly down onto the skin. Arrange in a small layer on a chilled plate. Drizzle with a little sweet dill mayonnaise. Garnish with a little fresh dill.

 

Sweet Dill Mayonnaise

1 large egg yolk, preferably free range

2 tablespoons French mustard

1 tablespoon white sugar

150ml (1/4 pint) ground nut or sunflower

1 tablespoon white wine vinegar

1 tablespoon dill, finely chopped

salt and freshly ground pepper

Whisk the egg yolk with the mustard and sugar, drip in the oil drop by drop whisking all the time, then add the vinegar and fresh dill.

Baked Gubbeen Cheese with Thyme Leaves and Crusty Bread  

One could also use a Durrus or Ardrahan, all of which are truly delicious just with crusty bread and a glass of red wine. 

Serves 4

1 whole Gubbeen cheese

1 tablesp. chopped thyme leaves or a little chopped rosemary

2 cloves of garlic, chopped (optional)

Cracked black pepper

crusty loaf of bread or potato wedges

Preheat the oven to 180C/350F/gas mark 4, cut the cheese in half horizontally to make 2 rounds.  Sprinkle the cracked black pepper, fresh herbs and chopped garlic if using on the bottom half of the cheese.   Replace the top disc of cheese and wrap loosely in aluminium foil. Transfer the cheese on a baking sheet and bake for 20 minutes or until just soft and runny inside.  Spoon the gooey cheese on slices of chunky bread or potato wedges.

Parmesan Custards with Anchovy Toasts

Serves 8

250ml (9fl ozs) cream

250ml (9 fl ozs) milk

4 organic egg yolks

100g (3 1/2 ozs) finely grated Parmesan, Coolea or Desmond cheese

salt, freshly ground pepper and a good pinch of cayenne

melted butter

Anchovy Butter

6 anchovy fillets

25g (1ozs) unsalted butter

4 slices of good quality white yeast bread

8 deep ovenproof pots or ramekins (75ml/3fl ozs) (we use shot glasses)

bain marie

Preheat the oven to 150ºC/300°F/Gas Mark 2.

Whisk the cream and milk with the egg yolks and the finely grated cheese.  Season with salt, freshly ground pepper and a pinch of cayenne. Whisk again.  Brush the inside of the pots with melted butter.  Divide the mixture between the pots.

Fill a bain marie with hot water, put the pots into the bain marie, the water should come about 2/3 way up the sides.  Cover the tops with a sheet of silicone paper.  Depending on the depth of the ramekin, bake for 30-45 minutes in the preheated oven or until the mixture has just set.  A skewer inserted into the centre should come out clean.

Meanwhile, make the anchovy butter.

Mash the anchovies finely with a fork, add the butter and mix well.

Just before serving, toast the bread quickly on both sides.  Spread the anchovy butter on 2 slices of bread and make into sandwiches with the other slices.  Press down to seal, trim off the crusts.  Cut each in half crosswise and then cut into thin fingers.  Put a pot or ramekin on a plate.  Arrange a little trellis of anchovy toasts on the side, add a teaspoon. Serve immediately.

Rachel’s Baked Eggs with Creamy Kale

Taken from Entertaining at Home by Rachel Allen by published Harper Collins

Serves 6

These are delicious for brunch or a casual supper. If you can’t get kale, use

spinach. I love to use the Irish farmhouse cheese Glebe Brethan for its delicious flavour and melting texture, but you could use Gruyère instead.

25g (1oz) butter

900g (2lb) kale with stalks removed before weighing

salt and ground black pepper

pinch of freshly grated nutmeg

350ml (12fl oz) single or regular cream

6 eggs

350g (12oz) Glebe Brethan or gruyère cheese, grated

Six 100ml (31⁄2 fl oz) ramekins or ovenproof dishes

Preheat the oven to 180°C (350°f), Gas mark 4. Add the butter to a large wide frying pan and place over a medium heat. Add the kale and season with salt and pepper. As

soon as the kale wilts and becomes tender, add the cream and nutmeg, then allow to bubble for 3–5 minutes until thickened. Divide the kale between the ramekins or dishes, placing it around the inside of each dish and leaving a small well in the

centre. Break one egg into each dish and sprinkle (50g) 2oz of the grated cheese over the top. Bake in the oven for 8–10 minutes or until golden on top and bubbling around the edges. Scatter over a little pepper and serve immediately with a little toast on the side.

Irish Farmhouse Cheese and Gubbeen Chorizo Puffs

Makes 40 approximately

 

8ozs (225g) white flour

1/4 teaspoon crushed red pepper

3 free range eggs, separated

2 tablespoons olive oil

6flozs (175ml) warm beer

salt and freshly ground pepper

1.2 litres (2 pints) peanut or corn oil

10ozs (275g) Gubbeen chorizo, skinned and finely chopped

3 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley

4ozs (110g) grated Coolea or Desmond cheese

fresh parsley leaves, preferably flat leaf Italian

Deep Fry or 3/4 inch (2cm) oil in a frying pan

Sieve the flour into a bowl.  Add the red pepper flakes and mix well.  Make a well in the centre and add the beaten egg yolks, olive oil, beer, 1/2 teaspoon salt, and freshly ground pepper.  Mix well, cover and allow to rest for 1 hour at room temperature.

Heat the oil to 190°C /375ºF/Gas Mark 5.  Meanwhile cook the chorizo in a frying pan over a medium heat for 3 minutes, stirring occasionally.  Whisk the egg whites until they form stiff peaks.  Fold the whites into the batter with the chorizo, parsley and cheese. Drop tablespoonfuls of batter gently into the hot oil, turn occasionally until golden, 2-3 minutes.  Drain on kitchen paper.   Serve and garnish with parsley leaves.  Serve immediately.

List of Suppliers

 

Gubbeen Farmhouse Products, Fingal Ferguson – 028 278 24 smokehouse@gubbeen.com

Belvelly Smokehouse, Belvelly, Cobh, Co Cork – Frank Hederman – 021 4811 089 mail@frankhederman.com

Ummera Smokehouse, Inchybridge, Timoleague, West Cork – Anthony Cresswell

023 884 6644  info@ummera.com

Woodcock Smokery, Gortbrack, Castletownshend, Skibbereen, West Cork

Sally Barnes 028 362 32  sally@woodcocksmokery.com

Durrus Farmhouse Cheese, Coomkeen, Durrus, West Cork – Jeffa Gill 027 611 00 durruscheese@eircom.net

Bellingham Blue, Glyde Farm, Castlebellingham, Co Louth 042 937 2343

Clonmore Goat Cheese, Charleville, Co Cork, Tom Biggane 063 704 90

Fermoy Natural Cheese Company, Strawhill, Fermoy, Co Cork

Frank and Gudrun Shinnick 025 31310 gudrun1@eircom.net

Urru Artisan Food Store, McSwiney Quay, Bandon, West Cork – Ruth Healy 023 885 4731 ruthhealy@urru.ie

Village Greengrocer & Food Hall, Main Street, Castlemartyr, Co Cork.

Sean Walsh – 021 466 7655

 

Edible Presents

 

Stained Glass Snowflake Cookies

Annie Rigg – Gifts from the Kitchen – published by Kyle Cathie

I used to have festive snowflake cutters for these cookies, but the same idea works just as well for almost any shape. They look beautiful hanging at a window, allowing the light to shine through the ‘stained glass’. Or you could give one cookie to each guest as a place setting or table gift for the Christmas dinner table.

Makes 8 – 12 cookies

225g  (8oz (½lb)unsalted butter, softened

150g  (5oz) icing sugar

1 large egg, beaten

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

350g  (12oz) plain flour, plus extra for rolling

inch of salt

assorted flavoured and coloured boiled sweets

You will need a selection of snowflake cookie cutters.

Cream the softened butter and icing sugar together until pale and light. Add the whole egg and vanilla extract and mix again until thoroughly combined. Sift the flour with the salt, add to the bowl and mix again until smooth. Gather the dough into a ball, flatten into a disc and wrap in Clingfilm. Chill for a couple of hours or until firm.

Meanwhile divide the boiled sweets into separate colours, place in freezer bags and crush using a rolling pin. Preheat the oven to 180°C/350°F/gas mark 4 and line 2 solid baking sheets with non-stick baking parchment. Lightly dust a work surface with flour and roll out the dough until it is roughly 3mm thick. Using the snowflake cutters, stamp out snowflakes in assorted sizes and arrange on the prepared baking sheets. Carefully and neatly fill the holes in the snowflakes with the crushed boiled sweets. Bake in batches on the middle shelf of the preheated oven for about 12 minutes, until the cookies are pale and golden and the boiled sweets have melted and filled the holes. Cool the cookies on trays until hardened, and package into boxes lined with greaseproof or waxed paper.  These will keep for 4 or 5 days in an airtight box.

Hottips

 

The many fans of Arbutus Artisan Breads will be delighted to hear that Declan Ryan plans to share his secrets and teach traditional skills and techniques for making his soda, yeast and sour dough breads. Numbers are limited so book soon. The course runs for four nights from 6:30pm till finish (depending when the bread you take home with you is ready) for four weeks starting on Wednesday 12^th January, 2011. €250.00 and email info@arbutus.com to book – 0862513919.

 

Having a last minute Christmas gift emergency? A Ballymaloe Cookery School gift voucher means everyone’s a winner! They can email you a presentation gift voucher even on Christmas Eve – 021 4646785 www.cookingisfun.ie

Muriel Coughlan won the Grow Bake Cook at the EAT Cork Festival 2010. Since then she worked really hard to get her company Gookies off the ground – she makes a wheat free, gluten free cookie dough roll which she now supplies to SuperValu in Midleton and Anne William’s stall at the farmers market. In O’Briens Sandwhich Bar coeliacs can request a Gookie – which are kept in a separate area in a special container – and can enjoy a freshly baked cookie with confidence. Contact Muriel Coughlan 0878229749.

What are we like – even though we may momentarily flirt with the idea of having something new and exotic for Christmas dinner, in the end everyone just seems to crave the traditional favourites with all the trimmings, so which will it be, turkey or goose? Well I’m giving the recipes for both here with the favourite accompaniments. Hopefully by now you have already bought the bird, you could just slather it in butter or wrap it in butter soaked muslin but the traditional brining method so beloved by the Americans in particular perks up even an undistinguished turkey and brings it to a new level of flavour. Don’t forget to use the carcass to make a bowl of turkey broth. It has tons of flavour and is full of goodness – akin to Jewish penicillin as chicken broth is called.

When I was in Dublin at the Good Food Ireland awards a few weeks ago, Peter Caviston the charismatic fishmonger from Glasthule in Co Dublin arrived with a gorgeous Norfolk Black turkey reared by Sandra Higgins in Co Kildare.  It was ‘New York dressed’, still had all its insides intact in the time honoured way. I brought it home and hung it in a cold room for a further three weeks (years ago people would have hung the turkey in the garage which was like a fridge anyway during the ‘cold snap’.) Then I gutted it, made a delicious buttery herby stuffing and roasted it as below. It was absolutely scrumptious with a delicious mild gamey flavour, reminiscent of the flavour of turkeys years ago.

I didn’t tell the young people that I had hung the turkey with its innards in for three weeks until they had ‘oohed and aahed’ about how delicious it was and those who knew, where deeply sceptical until they tasted it.

The secret is in the hanging, so remember this for next year, order a bronze turkey well ahead, hang and prepare it in the time honoured way. If gutting the bird seems daunting in an era when so much of our food comes in a sanitised form wrapped in plastic on polystyrene trays – ask your Mum or Gran, it’s so much more fun to be able to do these things yourself, it’s easy and clean, and can be done in a matter of minutes.

Back to the goose one could use the turkey stuffing but traditionally a potato stuffing was used. I’ve added some mashed parsnip which is so good with the dark goose meat.

Don’t forget to save every scrap of the fat for roast potatoes – it will keep in jars in your fridge for months – remove the two chunky pieces of goose fat at the vent end and render those down separately 100°C/225ºF/gas mark ¼ for 30 minutes or more. They will produce about 8 – 10 fl oz of precious goose fat to use for roast potatoes. Red cabbage and mashed or roast parsnips and of course lots of crispy potatoes are favourite accompaniments to serve with goose and don’t forget the apple sauce and gravy.

San Francisco Chronicle Classic: Brined Turkey

 

Brining poultry and pork hugely enhances the flavour but doesn’t make it excessively salty. It is particularly beneficial if you cannot find a free range organic bird. This recipe is based on a tried and tested recipe which has been published in the San Francisco Chronicle several times because of its popularity.

How to prepare a turkey for brining and roasting

1 x 5.4kg -6.6kg (12-15 lb) turkey

225g (8oz) sugar

454 g – 510 g (15ozs-12 ozs) dairy salt

17 pints  (22 ½ litres) cold water

2 bay leaves, torn into pieces

1 bunch fresh thyme

1 head of garlic, cloves separated and peeled

5 whole allspice or pimento berries, crushed

4 juniper berries, smashed

25g (1oz) softened butter and butter for basting

1½ teaspoons freshly ground black pepper

125 ml – 225 ml (4-8 fl ozs) chicken stock

Brining

Save the turkey giblets for stock. Rinse well with cold water. Mix the sugar, salt and 8 pints of water in a large bowl. Stir until the sugar and salt dissolve. Add the bay leaves, thyme, peeled garlic cloves, allspice (or pimento) and juniper berries.

Choose a large self-sealing or zip lock brining bag, put into a picnic cooler that is large enough to hold the turkey. Slip the turkey into the bag, pour in brine and remaining 7-8 pints water – there should be enough liquid to completely cover the bird. Press out the air in the bags.

Close the bag tightly. Keep the turkey cold by piling sealed bags of ice over and around the closed bag which will also help keep the turkey submerged. Brine for 12-24 hours.

 

 

 

Roasting

Preheat oven to 200°C/400°F  / Mark 6. Remove the turkey from brine, rinse and dry well. Slather the softened butter over the breast and legs. Sprinkle freshly ground black pepper over skin and in cavity. Tuck the wing tips underneath, loosely truss the legs and transfer the turkey into a roasting tin. Cover the breast loosely with foil.

Put the turkey into the preheated oven. Roast for about 1 hour, baste the turkey with 112ml (4fl oz) of chicken or turkey stock. Return to oven and roast, basting with pan drippings every 20 minutes or so, use more stock if needed. If legs begin to brown too much, cover loosely with foil. Total roasting time should be about 2¼-3 hours. Let bird rest for at least 20-30 minutes before carving. Make gravy with the juices. Serve with cranberry, bread sauce and lots of gravy.

 

Traditional Roast Goose with Potato Stuffing, Rose Geranium and Bramley Apple Sauce

A word of warning: a goose looks enormous because it has a large

carcass. Many people have been caught out by imagining that it will serve more people than it does. Ensure that you allow 450g (1lb) in cooked weight per person.

Serves 8-10

goose, about 4.5kg (10lb)

salt and freshly ground pepper

roux for the gravy (optional)

 

 

Giblet Stock

goose giblets

1 onion, sliced

1 carrot, chopped

bouquet garni

a sprig of thyme

4 parsley stalks

3 celery stalks, sliced

6 black peppercorns

 

Potato Stuffing

25g (1oz) butter

450g (½lb) onions, chopped

1 lb parsnips, peeled and blanched in boiling salted water

450g (1lb) Bramley Seedling, peeled and chopped

1 teaspoon thyme

1 teaspoon lemon balm

25ml (1 fl oz) fresh orange juice

900g (2lb) potatoes, in their jackets

1⁄4 teaspoon orange rind, finely grated

salt and freshly ground pepper

 

 

To Serve

Rose Geranium and Bramley Apple Sauce (see recipe)

 

To prepare the goose, gut the bird and singe off the pin feathers and down if necessary. Remove the wishbone from the neck end.

Combine the wishbone with the other stock ingredients in a saucepan, cover with cold water and the lid of the saucepan and simmer for 1 1/2–2 hours. Season the cavity of

the goose with salt and freshly ground pepper; also rub a little salt into the skin.

To make the potato stuffing, melt the butter in a heavy saucepan. Add the onions, cover and sweat on a gentle heat for about 5 minutes.

Then add the blanched parsnips, herbs and orange juice. Cook, covered, until the parsnips are fluffy.

Meanwhile, boil the potatoes in their jackets until cooked, peel, mash and add to the base mixture. Add the orange rind and seasoning.

Leave it to get quite cold before stuffing the goose.

Preheat the oven to 180°C/350°F/Gas Mark 4.

Stuff the goose loosely, then roast it for about 2 hours or until the juices run clear. Prick the thigh at the thickest part to check the juices. If they are still pink, the goose needs to cook a little bit longer. When cooked, remove the bird to a serving dish and put it in a very low oven while you make the gravy.

To make the gravy, spoon off the surplus fat from the roasting tin (save the fat for sautéing or roasting potatoes – it keeps for months in a fridge). Add about 600ml (1 pint/2 1/2 cups) of the strained giblet stock to the roasting tin and bring to the boil.

Use a small whisk to scrape the roasting tin well to dissolve the meaty deposits which are full of flavour. Taste for seasoning and thicken with a little roux if you like a thickened gravy. If the gravy is weak, boil it for a few minutes to concentrate the flavour; if it’s too strong, add a little water or stock.

Strain and serve in a hot gravy boat.

Carve the goose. Serve it, the rose geranium and Bramley Apple Sauce and the gravy separately.

Bramley Apple and Sweet Geranium Leaf Sauce

The secret of really good apple sauce is to use a heavy-based saucepan and very little water. The apples should break down into a fluff during the cooking.

 

450g (1lb) bramley cooking apples

2 teaspoons water

50g (2oz) sugar, or more depending on tartness of the apples

3-4 sweet geranium leaves, Pelagonium Graveolons optional

 

Peel, quarter and core the apples, then cut the quarters in two and put in a small stainless steel or cast iron saucepan. Add the sugar, water and sweet geranium leaves if using, cover and cook over a low heat. As soon as the apple has broken down, stir so it’s a uniform texture and taste for sweetness. Serve warm.

 

Old Fashioned Roast Turkey with Chestnut Stuffing and Bread Sauce

If you’d rather not have the chestnuts, simply omit them from the stuffing, it will still be delicious.

Serves 12

4.5kg (10lb) free-range turkey with giblets

For the Giblet Stock

neck, gizzard, heart (save the liver for pâté )

2 carrots, sliced

2 onions, sliced

1 celery stalk

bouquet garni

4 peppercorns

For the Chestnut Stuffing

450g (1lb) chestnuts

175g (6oz) butter

350g (12oz) onions, chopped

400g (14oz) soft breadcrumbs

50g (2oz) freshly chopped herbs, e.g. parsley, thyme. chives, marjoram, savoury, lemon balm

salt and freshly ground pepper

For Basting the Turkey

melted butter

To Garnish

large sprigs of fresh parsley or watercress

Remove the wishbone from the neck end of the turkey to make carving easier later. Then make the giblet stock by covering with cold water the neck, gizzard, heart, wishbone, vegetables, bouquet garni and black peppercorns. Bring to the boil. Simmer for 3 hours while the turkey is being prepared and cooked.

To make the stuffing, bring about 1.2 litres (2 pints) of water to the boil in a saucepan. Throw in the chestnuts and boil for 5–10 minutes, until the shell and inside skin peel off easily and the flesh should be soft. Pick them out one at a time and chop them finely. Melt the butter, and sweat the onions and chestnuts in it until soft. Add the breadcrumbs and herbs, taste and season carefully, mix well.

Preheat the oven to 180°C/350°F/gas mark 4.

Weigh the turkey and calculate the cooking time, allowing about 15 minutes per 450g (1lb) and 15 minutes over. Brush the turkey with melted butter (alternatively, smear well the breast, legs and crop with soft butter) and season with salt and freshly ground pepper. Cover loosely with greaseproof paper and roast for about 11⁄2–2 hours.

The turkey is done when the juices run clear. To test, prick the thickest part at the base of the thigh and examine the juices to ensure they are clear. Remove the turkey to a carving dish, keep it warm and allow it to rest while you make the gravy.

To make the gravy, spoon off the surplus fat from the roasting tin. Deglaze the pan juices with the giblet stock. Using a whisk, stir and scrape well to dissolve the caramelised meat juices from the roasting tin. Boil it up, season and thicken with a little roux if you like. Taste and correct the seasoning and serve in a warmed gravy boat.

If possible, present the turkey on your largest serving dish, surrounded by golden crispy potatoes and garnished with large sprigs of parsley or watercress and maybe a sprig of holly (make sure no one eats the berries though).

Serve with Bread Sauce and Cranberry Sauce.

 

Bread Sauce

Bread sauce sounds so dull. If I hadn’t been reared on it I might never have tried it. It is another ingenious way of using stale bread, I even love it cold!

Serves 12

450ml (16fl oz) milk

110g (4oz) breadcrumbs

2 onions, each stuck with 6 cloves

50g (2oz) butter

salt and freshly ground pepper

110ml (4fl oz) thick cream

Bring to the boil in a small, deep saucepan all the ingredients except the cream and season with salt and freshly ground pepper. Cover and simmer gently on a very low heat or cook in a low oven at 160°C/325°F/gas mark 3 for 30 minutes. Remove the onion and add the cream just before serving. Correct the seasoning, and add a little more milk if the sauce is too thick. Serve hot.

 

Spiced Cranberry Sauce

We have the Americans to thank for the delicious combination of turkey with cranberry sauce. I’ve added spices to the classic version to give extra bite. If you prefer you can put all the spices in a muslin bag to save fishing out the hard spices at the end of cooking.

Serves about 6

450g (1lb) granulated sugar

125m (4fl oz) white wine vinegar

1⁄2 stick cinnamon

1 star anise

6 cloves

5cm (2in) piece of fresh ginger, peeled

1 chilli, split and seeded

450g (1lb) cranberries

lemon juice

Put the sugar, vinegar, cinnamon, star anise, cloves, ginger and chilli in a stainless-steel saucepan with 225ml (8fl oz) water. Bring to the boil. Add the cranberries, bring back to the boil and simmer very gently until the cranberries burst. Lift out the hard spices with a slotted spoon. Add a little lemon juice to taste. Serve warm or cold.

 

Red Cabbage with Caraway Seed

This red cabbage recipe sounds a bit dull no red wine or spices but it’s the most delicious one I know.

Serves 6–8

450g (1lb) red cabbage

450g (1lb) cooking apples (Bramley Seedling)

1 tablespoon wine vinegar

1 level teaspoon salt

2 heaped tablespoons sugar

2 teaspoons roughly ground caraway seeds

Remove any damaged outer leaves from the cabbage. Cut in quarters, remove the core and slice the cabbage finely across the grain. Put the vinegar, caraway, salt and sugar into a cast-iron casserole or stainless-steel saucepan with 125ml (4fl oz) water. Add the cabbage and bring to the boil.

Peel and core the apples and cut into quarters (no smaller). Lay them on top of the cabbage, cover and continue to cook gently until the cabbage is tender, about 30–50 minutes. Do not overcook or the colour and flavour will be ruined. Taste for seasoning and add more sugar if necessary. Serve in a warm serving dish.

Hottips

 

Rebel Chilli Sauces – I was blown away in the best possible way by Ken Moore’s Chilli Sauces when I tasted them recently at the Douglas Farmers Market. Ken is a Quantity Surveyor turned Chilli Sauce Maker – brilliant ‘hot Christmas pressie’ Ken’s Jalapeno and Raspberry Jelly is guaranteed to perk up even the dullest left overs and for the brave the Habanero with Lemongrass and Ginger Sauce – 0868049958. Also available at Mahon Point Farmers Market.

 

Cork’s English Market – for the first time ever the traders of the English Market are opening their gates until 9pm every night for Christmas week, also open Sunday 19^th until 6pm. English Market Gift Vouchers now available – they make the perfect gift for anyone with an interest in good quality and reasonably priced food. Visit the English Market online www.englishmarket.ie

 

“Big Bird Day” with Claire’s Cheats and Treats. At Nash 19, Princes Street Cork, take the stress and hassle out of providing your family with the best, traditional Christmas foodie experience from home made plum puddings using Peter Ward’s of Country Choice fruits to Claire’s specially matured mincemeat. The list is available in the shop from 7:30am to 6pm Monday to Friday and 8:30am til 5:00pm on Saturdays running up to Christmas week. You can also order bespoke hampers that are wrapped on Little Hill native timber chopping boards. 021 4270880 – www.nash19.com

We can whinge all we like about the state of the economy. We can rant and rave and blame but apart from letting off steam and maybe raising our blood pressure it’s unlikely to get us very far. So let’s count our blessings and try to focus on the positives. If we are still fortunate enough to have good health and energy we can do little things to brighten our day and the day of those about us. Easy enough to say but worry and stress can be hugely debilitating, so when the going is tough one has to dig deeply to find the enthusiasm to even try to be cheerful. Getting together with a few neighbours and friends to have a simple feast or even a few nibbles does wonders for the morale. Why not invite some of the family and even a few neighbours’ kids to do the Christmas baking; this is what memories are made of. It’s definitely not rocket science to make a Christmas cake, plum pudding or a few jars of homemade mincemeat particularly if it becomes a family occasion and you can get help with the chopping and stirring. Invariably there is cake left over after Christmas so this year why not bake a square cake? When it has matured for a couple of days, divide it into 4 small squares and cover it with a bit of simple almond paste: close to Christmas make a batch of royal icing – I promise it’s easy to make and even if you have no plastering skills you can slather the icing generously over the almond iced cakes preferably with a palette knife, dab it here and there to create an impressive snow scene. Desist from adding Santies and snowmen unless they have sentimental value – it’ll look more sophisticated unadorned with maybe a sprig of holly on top. One cute little Christmas cake is plenty for most families and then you’ll have three others to give to friends.

My favourite plum pudding recipe makes 2 large or 3 small puddings. They are rich and succulent so as before a small slice per person is adequate and the remainder will make welcome gifts.

The Ballymaloe Mincemeat recipe makes 7 large jars for using, sharing or selling. It’s also gluten free so its suitable for Coeliacs or those with a wheat intolerance.

Brandy, rum or sherry butter can be made ahead and put into recycled small glass jars. Moscovado cream is best made closer to the time. Both the plum pudding and the mincemeat call for suet, in recent times many people have changed to using butter but believe me suet produces a more succulent result. One can of course buy suet but why not do as our grandmothers did – go along to your local butcher, ask for beef kidney suet.  It’ll cost a euro or two or may even be free if you are already a good customer. Trim it well as below, mince or chop by hand or in a food processor and use as directed in the recipe.

To prepare suet, start by asking your butcher for the fat that surrounds beef kidneys.

Remove and discard the papery membrane and any red veins or fragments of meat. If you’re not meticulous about this, these bits will deteriorate and the suet won’t keep properly. The fat will separate into natural divisions. Chop it coarsely and either mince or whizz it in a food-processor for a minute or two until it’s evenly grainy (years ago, people used to grate suet on a simple box grater). Refrigerate and use within a couple of days, but if it has been properly trimmed it will keep for weeks in a fridge.

Beef kidney suet also renders down into dripping in a cool oven. Perfect for cooking roast potatoes or chips in the time honoured way. Readers may be horrified to hear we suggest using it in this way – believe me it is high in vitamin D, calcium and protein and is far superior to much of the cheap cooking oils more commonly used nowadays. The plum pudding calls for bread crumbs, again, these are easily made. Just save stale bread and either liquidise or whizz in a food processor – in a few seconds you have bread crumbs. Failing that if they aren’t needed simply freeze and use later. They have a myriad of uses, stuffings, crispy coatings, buttered crumbs for gratins, homemade sausages or burgers.

The pudding also calls for candied peel, of course you can buy a tub of psychedelic coloured candied peel but if you make your own from left over orange and lemon peel it will taste infinitely better and keep for ages.

Darina Allen’s Iced Christmas Cake

This makes a moist and slightly crumbled cake which keeps very well. It can either be made months ahead or, if you are frenetically busy then it will still be delish even if made just a few days before Christmas – believe me I know!.

Serves about 40

10g (4oz) real glacé cherries

50g (2oz) whole almonds

350g (12oz) best-quality sultanas

350g (12oz) best-quality currants

350g (12oz) best-quality raisins

110g (4oz) homemade candied peel

50g (2oz) ground almonds

zest of 1 organic unwaxed lemon

zest of 1 organic unwaxed orange

60ml (21⁄2 fl oz) Irish whiskey

225g (8oz) butter

225g (8oz) pale, soft-brown sugar or golden caster sugar

6 organic eggs

275g (10oz) flour

1 teaspoon mixed spice

1 large or 2 small Bramley seedling apples, grated

Line the base and sides of a 23cm (9 inch) round, or 20cm (8 inch) square tin with a double thickness of silicone paper. Then tie a double layer of brown paper around the outside of the tin. Have a sheet of brown or silicone paper to lay on top of the tin during cooking.

Wash the cherries and dry them gently. Cut in two or four as desired. Blanch the almonds in boiling water for 1–2 minutes, then rub off the skins and chop them finely. Mix the dried fruit, nuts, ground almonds and grated orange and lemon zest. Add about half of the whiskey and leave for 1 hour to macerate.

Preheat the oven to 160°C/ 325°F/gas mark 3.

Cream the butter until very soft. Add the sugar and beat until light and fluffy. Whisk the eggs and add in bit by bit, beating well between each addition so that the mixture doesn’t curdle. Mix the mixed spice with the flour and stir gently into the butter mixture. Add the grated cooking apple to the plumped up fruit and stir into the butter mixture gently but thoroughly (don’t beat the mixture again or you will toughen the cake).

Put the mixture into the prepared cake tin. Make a slight hollow in the centre, dip your hand in water and pat it over the surface of the cake – this will ensure that the top is smooth when cooked.

Now lay a double sheet of brown paper on top of the cake to protect the surface from the direct heat. Bake for 1 hour. Then reduce the heat to 150°C/300°F/gas mark 2 and bake for a further 21⁄2 hours, until cooked; test in the centre with a skewer – it should come out completely clean. Pour the remainder of the whiskey over the cake and leave it to cool in the tin.

Next day, remove the cake from the tin. Do not remove the lining paper but wrap the cake in some extra greaseproof paper and tin foil until required.

Store in a cool, dry place; the longer the cake is stored the more mature it will be.

Homemade Almond Paste

450g (1lb) golden caster sugar

450g (1lb) ground almonds

2 small organic eggs

2 tablespoons Irish whiskey

a drop of pure almond extract

For Brushing on the Cake

1 organic egg white, lightly whisked, or sieved apricot jam

 

Royal Icing

 

1lb (450g) icing sugar

2 egg whites

2 teaspoons strained lemon juice

Sieve the caster sugar and mix with the ground almonds. Whisk the eggs, add the whiskey and 1 drop of almond extract, then add to the other ingredients and mix to a stiff paste. (You may not need all of the egg).

Sprinkle the worktop with icing sugar, turn out the almond paste and work lightly until smooth.

Remove the paper from the cake. To make life easier for yourself, put a sheet of greaseproof paper onto the worktop and dust with some icing sugar. Take about half the almond paste and roll it out on the paper: it should be a little less than 1cm (1⁄2 inch) thick.

Paint the top of the cake with the slightly beaten egg white or apricot jam and put the cake, sticky-side down, onto the almond paste. Give the cake a thump to ensure it sticks and then cut around the edge. If the cake is a little round-shouldered, cut the almond paste a little larger; pull away the extra bits and keep for later to make hearts or holly leaves. Use a palette knife to press the extra almond paste in against the top of the cake and fill any gaps. Then slide a knife underneath the cake or, better still, underneath the paper and turn the cake the right way up. Peel off the greaseproof paper.

Then roll out 2 long strips of almond paste: trim an edge to the height of the cake with a palette knife. Paint both the cake and the almond paste lightly with egg white or apricot jam. Then press the strip against the sides of the cake: do not overlap or there will be a bulge with the uneven edge upwards. Trim the excess almond paste with a long-bladed knife and keep for decoration and to make almond biscuits. Use a straight-sided water glass to even the edges and smooth the join. Then rub the cake well with your hand to ensure a nice flat surface.

Transfer onto a cake board

Leave in a cool, dry place for a few days to allow the almond paste to dry out; otherwise the oil in the almonds will seep through the icing.

When the cake is ready, make the Royal Icing.

Whisk the egg whites in a large bowl just until they begin to froth; then add the sieved icing sugar by the tablespoonful, beating well between each addition.  If you are making the icing in a electric mixer, use the lowest speed. When all the icing sugar has been incorporated, add the lemon juice, and if you would like a slightly soft icing, add a few drops of glycerine.   Beat until the icing reaches stiff peaks; scrape down the sides of the bowl.  Cover the bowl with a damp cloth for 1 hour or until you are ready to use the icing.

With a flexible palette knife, smear the icing over the top of each cake.   To achieve a snow-scene effect dab the palette knife onto the cake at irregular intervals so the icing comes up in little peaks.  While the icing is still wet, stick on some Christmas Cake decorations, eg Santa’s, Christmas trees and robins or if you prefer use some frosted fruits or flowers.

If you like you could tie a ribbon or cake frill around the edges of the cakes.

Pile the icing onto the cakes or divide it between the cakes with a palette knife. Slather it over the top and sides and then dab the icing with the palette knife to create peaks to give a snow effect.

 

Mummy’s Plum Pudding with Pedro Ximenez Butter

It has always been the tradition in our house to eat the first plum pudding on the evening it is made.   The grandchildren can hardly contain themselves with excitement – somehow that plum pudding seems the most delicious, it’s our first taste of Christmas.   The plum pudding can be made from about mid-November onwards but there is still time yet. Everyone in the family helps to stir so they can all make a wish.

Its fun to put silver plum pudding charms in the pudding destined to be eaten on Christmas Day.  Wrap them individually in silicone paper so they are bulky and clearly visible.

This recipe makes 2 large or 3 medium puddings.  The large size will serve 10-12 people, the medium 6-8 but I also like to make teeny weeny ones.

12 ozs (350g) raisins

12 ozs (350g) sultanas

12 ozs (350g) currants

12 ozs (350g) brown sugar

12 ozs (350g) white breadcrumbs (non GM)

12 ozs (350g) finely-chopped beef suet

4 ozs (110g) diced candied peel (preferably home-made)

2 Bramley cooking apples, coarsely grated

4 ozs (110g) chopped almonds

rind of 1 lemon

3 pounded whole cloves or ¼ teaspoon

a pinch of sea salt

6 eggs

2 1/2 fl ozs (62ml) Jamaica Rum

Pudding bowls – 2 pint or ¼ pint – Delph bowls give more protection than plastic

Mix all the ingredients together very thoroughly and leave overnight; don’t forget, everyone in the family must stir and make a wish!  Next day stir again for good measure.  Fill into pudding bowls; if plastic wet the lids, cover with a double thickness of greaseproof paper which has been pleated in the centre, and tie it tightly under the rim with cotton twine, making a twine handle also for ease of lifting.

Steam in a covered saucepan of boiling water for 6 hours or less depending on size.  The water should come half way up the side of the bowl.  Check every hour or so and top up with boiling water if necessary.  After 5  hours, 3 hours, 2 hours depending on the size, remove the pudding.   Allow to get cold and re-cover with fresh greaseproof paper.  Store in a cool dry place until required.

On Christmas Day or whenever you wish to serve the plum pudding, steam for a further 2 hours.  Turn the plum pudding out of the bowl onto a very hot serving plate, pour over some whiskey or brandy and ignite.  Serve immediately on very hot plates with

Pedro Ximinez butter or the more traditional brandy butter if you prefer.

You might like to decorate the plum pudding with a sprig of holly; but take care not to set the holly on fire – as well as the pudding!

Pedro Ximenez Butter

Pedro Ximenez is sweet, rich and deeply concentrated; I use it to drizzle over vanilla ice-cream, soak raisins until they are fat and plump or just to sip. Serve with plum pudding or minced pies.

3ozs (75g) butter

3ozs (75g) icing sugar

2-6 tablespoons Pedro Ximenez Sherry (I use the Lustau brand)

Cream the butter until very light, add the icing sugar and beat again.  Then beat in the sherry, drop by drop.  If you have a food processor, use it: you will get a wonderfully light and fluffy Pedro Ximenez Butter.

 

Hottips

 

Christmas Markets

 

Midleton Farmers Market will be open on Wednesday 22^nd December as well as Saturdays from 9:00 to 1:00pm – Casey O’Conaill 0861046075.

 

Mahon Point Farmers Market opens on Wednesday 22^nd December as well as their usual Thursday for you to pick up a last minute Christmas tree or wreath and last minute treats for Christmas day www.mahonpointfarmersmarket.com

Christmas in Cork Festival on Grand Parade is on every Friday, Saturday and Sunday until Christmas. There are over 45 food and craft stalls. Munch on a delicious burger from Dexter Organic Beef stall while you do your Christmas shopping. Also open on Wednesday 22^nd December. Contact John Collery for details 086 6055023

 

Buy a local Christmas tree and support a local farmer. I’ve ordered a fine specimen to showcase my Christmas tree cookies, (see edible presents next week) from David and Siobhan Barry near Carrigtwohill – 021 4883034 – 086 8238187 also available from Midleton, Mahon, Cobh, and Kinsale Farmers Markets.

 

We’re determined not to do doom and gloom. So, on the basis that a yummy little treat can cheer up even the grimmest day, we’re having lots of fun these days experimenting and making delicious Christmas presents for all our friends. With the current mood for all things thrifty and creative, some of our offerings are cheap and cheerful, others use indulgent ingredients and take some time to develop and mature. All can be packed in recycled jars, bottles, tin cans, biscuit boxes… Once you start to think about it there are a myriad of possibilities from home made jam, chutneys, relishes & pickles to cookies, sweeties and cordials, ratafias, drinks and spiced nuts.

Less fancy but practical everyday food can also make a welcome present. How lovely it would be to get a big pot of stew, a casserole, or a dish of shepherds pie with a little roll of garlic butter to melt into the top.

A few cartons of home-made soup, tarted up with tinsel, ribbons and a sprig of rosemary or holly will bring a warm glow to a busy friend or can be tucked into the freezer for another occasion.

Once you begin to think about it there are all kinds of possibilities both everyday and festive, a little homemade Christmas cake, plum pudding, a few jars of mincemeat or any of the Christmas sauces or accompaniments are of course welcome and save time in the run up to the frenzied Christmas rush. Good cookbooks with reliable well tested recipes are a present that can bring more pleasure. We’ve been enjoying Gifts from the Kitchen by Annie Rigg – published by Kyle Cathie.

It’s got 100 irresistible and imaginative recipes for home-made gifts. We’ve tested several with delicious results.

Annie also offers lots of suggestions for creative packaging to give your gift an elegant twist that will be remembered long after the contents have been devoured.

How could you not get a ‘ooops’ in your tummy when you are presented with a box of deliciously decadent chocolate truffles, a jar of piquant chutney or a bottle of raspberry cordial, all beautifully packaged with hand-written labels. If there are kids about they too can become involved in the chopping and stirring and the art work on the labels. Here are a few suggestions to get you started but Annie – an experienced freelance food stylist and writer has over 100 imaginative and completely yummy ideas for you…

 

Annie Rigg’s Raspberry and Rose Chocolate Wafers

A box of these chocolate wafers would make an ideal gift for Mother’s Day – they are easy enough for little hands to make as the only cooking required is to melt the chocolate.

Freeze-dried raspberries are available on-line or from good health food shops. As an alternative you could top the chocolate wafers with candied stem ginger or chopped dried fruits and nuts.

Makes about 24 wafers

 

150g (5oz) best-quality dark chocolate (72% cocoa solids)

150g (5oz) best-quality white chocolate

3–4 tablespoons (approx. 25g) freeze-dried raspberry crispies

3–4 tablespoons (approx. 25g) crystallized rose petals

3–4 tablespoons (approx. 25g) pink sugared rose chips or sugar sprinkles

Line 2 large baking sheets with non-stick baking parchment.

Break the dark and white chocolate into pieces and melt separately in heatproof bowls set over pans of barely simmering water. Stir until smooth, remove from the heat and cool slightly. Spoon heaped teaspoonfuls of melted chocolate on to the prepared baking sheets,

spreading the chocolate into discs with the back of the spoon. Scatter with the raspberry crispies, rose petals and rose chips or sugar sprinkles.

Set aside to cool and harden completely before removing from the parchment with a palette knife.

*Stored in an airtight container, these will keep for 4–5 days.

Annie Rigg’s Sea-salted Caramels

You really do need a sugar thermometer for making caramels and toffees, but it won’t be a wasted investment – once you’ve tried these caramels you’ll be hooked. The saltiness is just enough to cut through the intense caramel sweetness, making them dangerously moreish. Wrap each caramel in a twist of non-stick baking parchment.

Makes about 20 caramels

 

150g (5oz) caster sugar

150g (5oz) light muscovado sugar

100g (3½ oz) unsalted butter

200ml double cream

3 tablespoons golden syrup

1 teaspoon sea salt flakes

Grease a 15–17cm square tin with sunflower oil. Place the caster sugar in a deep pan with 2 tablespoons of cold water. Set the pan over a medium heat until the sugar has dissolved, then bring to the boil and continue to cook until the sugar has turned to a deep amber-coloured caramel. Remove the pan from the heat and immediately add the remaining ingredients and stir until smooth.

Return the pan to the heat and bring back to the boil. Continue to cook until the caramel reaches 130°C/250°F on a sugar thermometer. Remove from the heat, leave to settle for 30 seconds, then pour into the prepared tin and leave until cold before turning out of the tin and breaking into pieces.

*These will keep for 4–5 days in an airtight box or wrapped in non-stick paper in a jar.

Annie Rigg’s Spiced Nuts

Fill homemade paper cones with spoonfuls of these mixed spiced nuts. They’re the perfect little package to give to the cocktail enthusiast in your life.

Makes 8 paper cones

 

750g (1lb 10oz) mixed nuts (Brazils, walnuts, pecans, almonds, cashews, peanuts and macadamias)

50g (2oz) pumpkin seeds

50g (2oz) sunflower seeds

2 tablespoons olive oil

2 tablespoons clear honey

2 teaspoons sea salt flakes

2 teaspoons cumin seeds, coarsely ground

11/2 teaspoons paprika

1 rounded teaspoon celery salt

freshly ground black pepper

 

Preheat the oven to 180°C/350°F/gas mark 4.

Tip all the nuts and seeds into a large bowl and drizzle over the olive oil and honey. Add the salt and spices and a generous grinding of black pepper. Mix well to evenly coat the nuts in the spices. Tip the mixture out on to a large baking tray and spread level.

Roast on the middle shelf of the preheated oven for about 10 minutes, stirring the mixture regularly so that it browns evenly. When the nuts are golden, remove from the oven and allow to cool before packaging into paper cones to serve.

*These nuts will keep for 3 days in an airtight box.

Annie Rigg’s Chocolate and Hazelnut Spread

A grown-up version of a childhood favourite, this is delicious when spread thickly onto toast, inbetween cake layers or when sandwiched in the middle of cookies – or if no-one’s looking straight from the jar with a big spoon…

Makes 1 x 450g Jar

 

75g (3oz) blanched hazelnuts

100g (3½oz) dark chocolate

(72% cocoa solids), chopped

100ml (3½fl oz) condensed milk

1–2 tablespoons hazelnut oil

pinch of salt

3–4 tablespoons hot water

Preheat the oven to 180°C/350°F/gas mark 4. Tip the hazelnuts on to a baking sheet and toast in the preheated oven for about 5–7 minutes, until pale golden. Remove the nuts from the oven and cool slightly. Tip the warm hazelnuts into a food processor and chop until they become an almost smooth paste.

Gently melt the chocolate, condensed milk and hazelnut oil in a small pan over a low heat. Stir until smooth and add to the hazelnut paste in the food processor. Add a pinch of salt and blend, then add the hot water and blend again until the mixture has a thick, spreadable consistency.

Spoon into a pretty sterilised jar and leave to cool. Cover with a lid and label when cold.

*It will keep in the fridge for up to 2 weeks.

Homemade sweets and candies are always a pleasure to make and to receive. A box of

sugar-dusted, rose-scented Turkish Delight is something we often associate with Christmas but would make a perfect Valentine’s or Mother’s Day gift packed into a box lined with waxed paper.

You could al so try adding pure lemon extract and a drop of yellow food colour in place of the rosewater and pink colouring.

 

Annie Rigg’s Fortune Cookies

Fill each of these cookies with a personalised message of goodwill and give them to your family and friends at New Year or any other significant event. Bake the cookies in small quantities, as you have to work very quickly to fill and shape them once they come out of the oven before the delicate mixture becomes dry, brittle and impossible to fold.

Makes about 12

100g (3½oz) plain flour

pinch of ground ginger

pinch of salt

3 large egg whites

100g (3½oz) icing sugar

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

75g (3oz) unsalted butter, melted and cooled slightly

 

Preheat the oven to 150°C/300°F/gas mark 2 and line 2 solid baking sheets with non-stick baking parchment.

Sift together the flour, ground ginger and salt. In a medium-sized bowl, whisk the egg whites until foamy. Add the icing sugar and vanilla extract and whisk until combined. Stir in the sifted dry ingredients, then add the melted butter and mix until smooth. Set aside for 10 minutes.

Draw 2 x 10cm circles on each sheet of baking parchment and spoon 1 tablespoon of the mixture on to each circle. Using either the back of a spoon or a palette knife, spread the mixture in an even layer to fill the circles. Bake 1 sheet on the middle shelf of the preheated oven and the other on the shelf below for about 6–8minutes, until the cookies are starting to turn golden at the edges.

Working quickly, remove one sheet of baking parchment from the oven at a time, leaving the other baking tray inside and, using a palette knife, carefully and quickly lift the cookies off the parchment. Flip the cookie over, lay your fortune message in the middle and fold the cookie over it in half. Bring the points of the cookie together to make the fortune cookie curl and leave to cool in a muffin tin (this will help them to keep their shape). Repeat with the remaining cookies.

Once you have used up all of the mixture and all of your cookies are baked and shaped, slide the muffin tin into the oven for a further minute to brown them evenly.

*Leave to cool in the tins before packaging in takeaway boxes. Stored in an airtight container, they will keep for up to 3 days.

Annie Rigg’s Lemon and Passion Fruit Curd

There’s nothing quite like homemade lemon curd. And when you add passionfruit to the mix, you‘re on to something really special. Serve it with freshly baked scones (or shortcakes), hot buttered English muffins, or spread between vanilla sponge cake layers with lashings of whipped cream and fresh berries.

Makes 4 small jars

4 large eggs

125g (4 1/2 oz) unsalted butter, cubed

225g (4 1/2 oz) caster sugar

zest and juice of 3 unwaxed lemons

seeds and pulp of 2 passionfruit

 

Beat the eggs and strain into a medium-sized heatproof bowl. Add the remaining ingredients and place the bowl over a pan of simmering water.

Do not allow the bottom of the bowl to come into contact with the water or the heat will scramble the eggs.

Stir the mixture constantly until it reaches the consistency of very thick custard. Remove from the heat and stand the bowl in a sink of coldwater to speed up the cooling process, stirring occasionally until cold.

Pour into sterilised jars (see page 168), cover and store in the fridge until needed.

*It will keep, in the fridge, for up to 1 week.

Countdown to Christmas

Ballymaloe Spiced Beef

 

This year why not make your own spiced beef. There are lots of recipes for this Cork specialty traditionally eaten at Christmas, and many of them corn or brine the beef first. This recipe, which has been handed down in Myrtle Allen’s family, is for dry-spiced beef. Initially, the recipe called for silverside, but I prefer to use flap (also known as flank) a less expensive cut which you can get from your local butcher. The recipe also includes saltpetre, which should only be used in moderation. If you can’t find it, just leave it out. The meat will be slightly more grey in colour rather than the rosy pink that comes from the saltpetre cure. The recipe below makes enough spice to cure five flanks of beef, about 1.8kg (4lb) each in size. Spiced beef keeps for immeasurably longer than ordinary cooked or roast beef. Store the spice mix in a screw-top jar. It will keep for months, so make the full quantity even if it is more than you need at a particular time. To serve, cut it into thin slices and serve in sandwiches or with freshly made salads and homemade chutneys.

Serves 12–16

1.8kg (4lb) lean flank of beef

Ballymaloe Spice for Beef

225g (8oz) Demerara sugar

350g (12oz) salt

10g (1⁄2 oz) saltpetre (potassium nitrate)

75g (3oz) whole black pepper

75g (3oz) whole allspice (pimento, Jamaica pepper)

75g (3oz) whole juniper berries

Grind all the spice ingredients (preferably in a food-processor) until fairly fine.

Remove the bones from the flank and trim away any unnecessary fat. Rub a little spice well over the surface of the beef and into every crevice. Put into an earthenware dish and leave in a fridge or cold larder for 3–7 days, turning occasionally. (This is a dry spice, but after a day or two some liquid will come out of the meat.) The longer the meat is left in the spice, the more spicy the flavour and the longer it will last.

Just before cooking, remove the spiced beef from the earthenware dish. The salt and sugar will have extracted some liquid. Discard this spice mixture. Roll and tie the joint neatly with cotton string into a compact shape. Put it into a deep saucepan, cover generously with cold water, bring to the boil and simmer for 3–4 hours or until soft and fully cooked. If it is not to be eaten hot, then press the meat by putting it on a flat tin or into an appropriate sized bread tin and covering with a board and weight. Leave it for 12 hours in a fridge or cold larder. Spiced beef will keep for 3–4 weeks in a fridge.

 

Hottips

Christmas cheer at the Milk Market – I still haven’t made it but everyone is talking about the new revamped Milk Market in Limerick – open Thursday to Sunday with up to 60 stalls brimming with great produce. Don’t miss Peter Wards mulled wine and the banter at the Country Choice stall www.milkmarket.ie

The Christmas Market in Ballyvaughan’s Community Hall will run on three weekends before Christmas, Saturday and Sunday 4th & 5th December, Saturday and Sunday 11th & 12th December, Saturday and Sunday 18th & 19th December. The Burren Crafts Group will have some stalls too.

Sally and John McKenna of the Bridgestone Guide launched StreetSmart on 22^nd November in support of people who are homeless. From now until Christmas Eve, diners at participating StreetSmart restaurants will have the opportunity to donate just €2 to their bill, or more if they so wish, to help raise funds for people who are homeless.  StreetSmart this year brings together restaurants across Cork and Dundalk to help raise funds for Cork and Dundalk Simon Communities and Good Shepherd Services. Restaurants can still sign up to StreetSmart through www.streetsmart.ie where a full list of participating restaurants can be found.

Every Thursday until Christmas is Wine Tasting Day at Interior Living on MacCurtain Street in Cork from 5.00pm to 8.OO pm. Stock your pantry for the festive season with gourmet delights – you can even order your Caherbeg Free range ham and local artisan cheeses – 021 4505819.