ArchiveOctober 2026

Oops, that was fast, it seems like a few days ago it was Summer then suddenly it feels like Winter and I’m longing for bubbly stews and casseroles. In these days of constantly rising costs and prices, hearty stews and casseroles really deliver bang for your buck in terms of flavour and nutrients. The secret is inexpensive cuts of meat and long, slow cooking. Do you have an old stove, put the stew pot into the bottom oven and let it bubble away for hours, otherwise invest in a slow cooker, the slower the stew or casserole is cooked, the more meltingly tender the end result will be, for this column, I’ll concentrate on beef. Beef short ribs are particularly rich and delicious. Beef shin, also deep beefy, is one of the best cuts to come from a cow. Oxtail has the very best flavour. Beef shin costs half nothing and is packed with collagen. While it cooks, the gelatine gradually melts into the liquid creating a thick, flavourful rich sauce. Winter is root vegetable season. The irony is one needs less meat with these flavourful cuts. Add lots and lots of carrots, parsnips, swede turnip, celeriac to bulk out the stew and add extra deliciousness. One can just pile everything into the casserole but if time allows, it’s really worth browning the meat and vegetables in hot tallow for beef or extra virgin olive oil. The flavour from the caramelised edges will be infinitely more delicious. About three-quarters way through cooking, I often cover the stew with a layer of potatoes, so they absorb the flavour from the stew. Another favourite is to toss in a can of drained chickpeas or butter beans a few minutes from the end of cooking to add volume and extra nourishment. Scatter with lots of fresh herbs before serving to add freshness. Stews and casseroles taste even better the next day or the day after. When most of the meals and vegetables have been eaten, you may have just a small amount of sauce left. Toss it over pasta and add lots of freshly grated cheese and freshly chopped herbs for a hearty supper. So, time to visit your local butcher and have a good chat about the deliciousness of cheaper cuts, go out of your way to find organic meat, but you’ll get real value when you start to experiment with the lesser known cuts – you’ll wonder why it took you so long to discover them.

Beef and Oxtail Stew with Vegetables

Oxtail costs very little and makes an extraordinarily rich and flavoursome winter stew, considering how cheap it is. This is another humble dish, which has recently been resurrected by trendy chefs who are capitalizing on their customer’s nostalgic craving for their Gran’s cooking.  Use the leftover stew as a sauce for pasta, sprinkle with lots of grated Parmesan cheese and chopped parsley. 

Serves 6-8

Ingredients

2 whole oxtails

450g shin of beef or stewing beef, cut into 4cm cubes                                                       

110g streaky bacon

25g beef dripping or2 tbsp olive oil

225g finely chopped onion

225g carrots, cut into 2cm cubes

125g parsnips, cut into 2cm cubes

55g chopped celery

1 tbsp homemade tomato purée

1 bay leaf, 1 sprig of thyme and parsley stalks

salt and freshly ground pepper

150ml red wine

450ml homemade beef stock or 600ml all beef stock                                                                                      

175g mushrooms, sliced                                                                             

15g roux (made with equal quantities of flour and butter, cooked on a low heat, stirring occasionally)

2 tbsp chopped parsley

Method

First cut the oxtail into pieces through the natural joints – the joints are made of cartilage, so you won’t need a saw.  If this seems like too much of a challenge, ask your butcher to disjoint the oxtail for you.

Cut the bacon into 2.5cm cubes.      

Heat the dripping or olive oil in a frying pan, add the bacon and sauté for 1-2 minutes, add the vegetables, cook for 2-3 minutes, stirring occasionally. Transfer into a casserole. Add the beef and oxtail pieces to the pan, a few at a time and continue to cook until the meat is beginning to brown.  Add to the casserole. Add the wine and 150ml of stock to the pan.  Bring to the boil and use a whisk to dissolve the caramelised meat juices from the pan, bring to the boil.  Add to the casserole with the herbs, stock and tomato purée. Season with salt and freshly ground pepper. Cover and cook either on top of the stove or in a preheated oven 160°C/Gas Mark 3 very gently for 2-3 hours, or until the oxtail and vegetables are very tender.

Meanwhile, cook the sliced mushrooms in a hot frying pan in a little butter for 2-3 minutes. Stir into the oxtail stew and cook for about 5 minutes. Transfer the beef and oxtail to a hot serving dish and keep warm. Remove and discard the bay leaves, thyme and parsley stalks.

Bring the liquid back to the boil, whisk in a little roux and cook until slightly thickened. Add back in the meat and chopped parsley.  Bring to the boil, taste and correct the seasoning.  Serve in the hot serving dish with lots of champ.

Beef and Oxtail Stew with Gremolata

Sprinkle a little gremolata (see recipe) over each portion of oxtail stew and serve.

Gremolata

Gremolata is a fresh tasting mix of chopped parsley, garlic and lemon zest. We use it to sprinkle over roast or braised meats, pastas or anything pan-grilled – delicious!

Ingredients

4 tbsp preferably flat parsley, chopped

1 generous tsp grated or finely chopped lemon zest

2 garlic cloves, finely chopped

Method

Mix all the ingredients in a small bowl and use soon.

Winter Beef Stew with Polenta

Of all the beef stews I make, this is the favourite. It can be made in large quantities plus it reheats and freezes brilliantly. Gremolata is a fresh-tasting mix of chopped parsley, garlic and lemon zest, which I use to sprinkle over roast or braised meat, pasta or anything pan-grilled. The polenta can be served the moment it’s ready or poured into a shallow, well-oiled dish and left to cool. It can then be sliced and chargrilled, pan-grilled, toasted or fried and served with all sorts of toppings.

The quality of polenta varies so choose a really good brand. This stew is also lovely with Colcannon instead of the polenta.

Serves 6-8

Ingredients

3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil

285g sliced onions

2 large carrots, cut into 1cm slices

1.35kg well hung stewing beef or lean flank, trimmed of any excess fat and cut into 4cm pieces

1 heaped tbsp plain flour

150ml red wine

150ml homemade beef stock

250ml homemade tomato purée or 3-4 tbsp of best quality concentrated tomato purée mixed with 225ml water or 400g tin chopped tomatoes

175g sliced mushrooms

1 tbsp chopped parsley

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

Gremolata

4 tbsp chopped flat-leaf parsley

1 generous tsp grated or finely chopped lemon zest

2 garlic cloves, finely chopped

For the Polenta (optional)

1 level dsp salt

225g coarse polenta (bramata)

110g butter

85-110g freshly grated Parmesan cheese

Method

Preheat the oven to 160°C/Gas Mark 3.

Heat 1 tbsp of the oil in a casserole over a gentle heat, add the onions and carrots, cover with a lid and sweat for 10 minutes.

Heat 1 tbsp of the oil in a frying pan until almost smoking. Sear the beef on all sides, then add to the casserole. Sprinkle the flour over the meat and cook for 1-2 minutes. Add the wine, stock and tomato purée to the frying pan, bring to the boil and then add to the casserole. Season the casserole with salt and pepper, cover and cook in the oven for 2 1/2 – 3 hours, depending on the cut of meat.

Meanwhile, heat the remaining oil in a pan over a high heat, sauté the mushrooms and add to the casserole with the parsley about 15 minutes before the end of cooking.

To make the polenta, pour 1.7 litres water into a deep, heavy-bottomed saucepan and bring to the boil, then add the salt and sprinkle in the polenta very slowly, letting it slip gradually through your fingers, whisking all the time (this should take 2-3 minutes). Bring to the boil and when it starts to erupt like a volcano, reduce the heat to the absolute minimum – use a heat diffuser mat if you have one.

Cook for about 40 minutes, stirring regularly. I use a whisk at the beginning but as soon as the polenta comes to the boil I change to a flat-bottomed wooden spoon. (If you stir constantly over a slightly higher heat, the cooking time can be reduced to about 20 minutes, but it is more digestible if cooked slowly over a longer period.) The polenta is cooked when it is very thick but not solid and comes away from the sides of the pan as you stir.

As soon as the polenta is cooked, stir in the butter, Parmesan and lots of freshly ground pepper. Taste and add a little more salt if necessary. It should be soft and flowing; if it is a little too stiff, add some boiling water.

Just before you’re ready to serve, make the gremolata by mixing all the ingredients together in a small bowl.

Serve the casserole topped with the gremolata, if using, with the polenta, colcannon, mashed potatoes or noodles and a good green salad alongside, as you wish.

Braised Short Ribs with Scallion Mash

Short ribs deliver so much ‘bang for your buck’, tons of rich deep flavour from an inexpensive cut of meat that’s so worth knowing about.  This stew reheats brilliantly and when I have a tiny saucy bit leftover, I use it as a sauce with pasta, with a sprinkle of parmesan – so good.

Serves 10-12

Ingredients

6 cross cut beef short ribs, trimmed

225g streaky bacon (in a piece if possible. Remove rind, dice bacon, fry out fat in 1 tbsp olive oil or duck fat)

225g sliced carrot

175g diced celery

6-8 cloves garlic, cut in half

1 chilli, sliced

1 red pepper, diced

1 yellow pepper, diced

2-3 large onions (1 sliced – the other 2 chopped)

1 tbsp tomato puree

200-250ml red wine

1 sprig of rosemary

2 bay leaves

small fistful of thyme sprigs

1 cinnamon stick

3 spirals of orange zest

beef or chicken stock

roux (optional)

parsley, coarsely chopped

Accompaniment

scallion mash or baked potatoes

wide sauté pan

casserole or heavy braising pot

Method

Preheat the oven to 160˚C/Gas Mark 3

If possible, trim and salt the beef the night before cooking.

Remove rind and dice the bacon.  Save the rind to cook with the beef, it adds gelatine to the sauce. 

Heat a little oil in a wide sauté pan and brown the bacon dice.  Remove to a plate.

Brown the beef in batches; do not overcrowd the sauté pan.  Leave 2 tbsp of fat in the pan and sweat the onion, carrot and celery, stirring to dissolve all browned bits in the sauté pan.  Add the garlic, chilli and peppers and sweat for 5-6 minutes or until limp.

Place the beef, bacon and vegetables in a casserole or heavy braising pot, preferably enamelled cast iron.

Add the tomato paste to the hot sauté pan and cook briefly.   Add wine and bring to the boil.  Pour this over the beef, add the herbs, cinnamon stick and orange zest and enough stock to come halfway up the pot.  Bring back to the boil.  Cover with a paper lid and a tight fitting lid.  Braise in a moderate oven 160˚C/Gas Mark 3 to low oven 150˚C/Gas Mark 2 until tender, 3-4½ hours (depending on size).  Pour off the liquid, allow to settle.

Skim the fat off the top (keep for roast potatoes).  Remove the herbs and bones from the pot if you wish.   Bring back to the boil.  Thicken the juices with a little roux if desired.  Taste and correct seasoning. Add back into the pot.  Scatter with coarsely chopped parsley.

If we are to read the stars, it looks like life as we know it is about to come to an abrupt end.

Several governments including Ireland have recently issued booklets to their citizens to highlight the importance of household resilience, urging us to be prepared for, among other things, possible upcoming food security issues.

Due to a combination of geopolitical events, wars in Ukraine, Gaza and the Middle East leading to global disruption and supply shortages. Escalating weather incidents precipitated by extreme climate change, wildfires, floods. It’s all gathering momentum into a perfect storm partly linked to El Nino.

Unless something extraordinary occurs to reverse this trend, we need to accept the reality and be Emergency Ready as the booklet says. No need to panic, just be prepared…

So, time to upskill, build resilience and do a What If Exercise!

Many of us, me included can just about do basic DIY, change a fuse but how to fix a plug? Most of our grandparents were almost self-sufficient but in recent years, life has intervened and many in our busy lives simply don’t have the time or inclination to be self-sufficient.

We’re so spoiled, nowadays, everything we need is easily accessible. Consequently, we have inadvertently allowed ourselves to become increasingly deskilled and have become completely reliant on others for our basic needs, most particularly the food that nourishes and keeps us alive.

If you are inclined, lettuce and salad leaves can be grown on your windowsill, still time to plant garlic too.

This is a food column so we will concentrate on that area.

Apparently, food prices are to rise by at least 4% before Christmas. After the last power outage, I hope everyone has invested in a gas ring for emergencies.

So, let’s ask ourselves, what if there’s no bread? Can you whip up a loaf of soda bread?

How about stocking your pantry with some shelf-stable foods – peas, beans, pulses, canned foods, flour, rice, oatmeal, honey, coffee, sugar, dry cured meat – charcuterie, salami …nutrient dense food.
Buy one or two items a week and of course label and date and use in rotation. Maybe store some root vegetables too, they keep really well in a clay pit.

Brush up on your foraging skills, freeze and preserve any surplus, still time to pick blackberries, they freeze excellently.

Windfall crab apples make delicious jellies, which can be flavoured with a myriad of foraged foods as well as blackberries, mountain ash, sloes, haws, sea buckthorn, elderberries. One can change the name to Forager’s Jelly.

Get yourself a copy of Self Sufficiency by John Seymour. Suddenly, maybe the folks who have made a decision to live ‘off grid’ don’t seem so crazy after all!

Get to know your local farmers and food producers and the folks at your nearest Farmers’ Market.

When shopping, make a determined effort to choose Irish. Local food systems will become ever more important.

Here are three recipes to get you started.

Basic Brown Soda Bread

Couldn’t be simpler, just mix and pour into a well-greased tin.  This bread keeps very well for several days and is also great toasted and of course freezes perfectly.

Makes 1 loaf or 3 small loaves

Ingredients

400g stone ground wholemeal flour

75g white flour, preferably unbleached

1 tsp salt

1 level tsp bread soda, sieved (bicarbonate of soda/baking soda)

1 egg, preferably free range

1 tbsp olive oil, unscented

1 tsp honey or treacle

425ml buttermilk or sour milk approx.

sunflower or sesame seeds (optional)

loaf tin 23 x 12.5 x 5cm OR 3 small loaf tins 14.6cm x 7.62cm

Preheat oven to 200°C/Gas Mark 6.

Method

Put all the dry ingredients including the sieved bread soda into a large bowl, mix well. Whisk the egg, add the oil, honey and buttermilk. Make a well in the centre of the dry ingredients and pour in all the liquid, mix well and add more buttermilk if necessary. The mixture should be soft and slightly sloppy, pour into an oiled tin or tins – using a butter knife, draw a slit down the middle. Sprinkle some sunflower or sesame seeds on the top. Bake for 60 minutes approximately (45-50 minutes for small loaf tins), or until the bread is nice and crusty and sounds hollow when tapped. Cool on a wire rack.

Super Seed Bread

Add 1 tbsp of sunflower seeds, 1 tbsp of sesame seeds, 1 tbsp of pumpkin seeds, 1 tbsp of kibbled wheat to the dry ingredients. Keep a mixture to scatter over the top.

Note

The quantity of buttermilk can vary depending on thickness.  Add 1-2 tbsp of cream to low-fat buttermilk (optional).

Forager’s Soup with Optional Chorizo Lardons

Throughout the seasons one can gather wild greens on a walk in the countryside – foraging soon becomes addictive.  Many greens are edible and some are immensely nutritious.  Arm yourself with a good well-illustrated guide and be sure to identify carefully and if in doubt – don’t risk it until you are quite confident.  Don’t overdo the very bitter herbs like dandelion.  Of course, the chorizo is optional – use vegetable stock for a vegetarian version.

Serves 6

Ingredients

50g butter

150g diced potatoes (7mm)

110g diced onion (7mm)

salt and freshly ground black pepper

600ml light chicken stock

600ml creamy milk

250g chopped greens – alexanders, nettles, wild sorrel, a few young dandelions, wild garlic, borage leaves, wild rocket, ground elder, beech leaves, chickweed, watercress

extra virgin olive oil

75g chorizo or lardons of streaky bacon (optional)

Garnish

fresh parsley, chopped

Method

Melt the butter in a heavy bottomed saucepan. When it foams, add potatoes and onions and turn them until well coated. Sprinkle with salt and freshly ground pepper. Cover and sweat on a gentle heat for 10 minutes. When the vegetables are almost soft but not coloured add the hot stock and boiling milk.  Bring back to the boil and cook until the potatoes and onions are fully cooked. Add the greens and boil with the lid off for 2-3 minutes approx. until the greens are just cooked. Do not overcook or the soup will lose its fresh green colour. Purée the soup in a liquidiser. Taste and correct seasoning.

Heat a little oil in a frying pan.  Add the diced chorizo or lardons of streaky bacon, cook over a low to medium heat until the fat starts to run and the bacon is crisp (careful, it’s easy to burn chorizo!).  Drain on kitchen paper.  Sprinkle over the soup as you serve.  Use the chorizo oil to drizzle over the soup also and scatter a few little chopped parsley on top and enjoy

Braised Lamb Shanks with Garlic, Rosemary and Haricot Beans

If necessary, cook slowly over an open fire until the lamb shanks are meltingly tender and almost falling off the bone.

Serves 6

Ingredients

6 lamb shanks, 1kg approx.

12 small sprigs of rosemary

12 slivers garlic

6 anchovy fillets, halved (optional)

salt and freshly ground black pepper

Braising Ingredients

25g goose fat or duck fat or olive oil

2 carrots, roughly chopped

2 celery stalks, roughly chopped

1 leek, roughly chopped

1 onion, roughly chopped

1 head garlic, halved horizontally

200ml bottle good red wine

500ml chicken or lamb stock

1 sprig of thyme

2 sprigs of rosemary

2 bay leaves

2 strips of dried orange peel

Sauce

2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil

110g streaky bacon, cut into lardons and blanched

½ carrot, finely diced

½ celery stalk, finely diced

½ onion, finely diced

6 cloves garlic

4 very ripe tomatoes, peeled and diced or ½ x 400g tin of tomatoes + juice, chopped

2 sprigs of thyme

leaves from 2 sprigs of rosemary, chopped

1 x 400g tin haricot beans, drained or 110-200g dried haricot beans, soaked overnight and then boiled rapidly for 20 minutes

chicken or lamb stock to cover

Garnish

sprigs of rosemary and thyme

Preheat the oven to 150°C/Gas Mark 2.

Method

Make 2 deep incisions in each lamb shank, insert a sprig of rosemary and a sliver of garlic wrapped in half an anchovy fillet (if using) into each incision. Season with salt and black pepper.

Heat the goose fat or extra virgin olive oil in a heavy sauté pan or casserole and sauté the meat in it until well browned on all sides. Remove the meat from the pan. Add the carrots, celery, leeks, onion and garlic and cook over a high heat until well browned. Add the red wine to the pan and bring to the boil, stir for a minute or two. Add the chicken stock, herbs and orange peel to the pan, then place the lamb shanks on top. Cover and cook in the oven for 4 hours.

Meanwhile, make the sauce.

Heat the olive oil in a saucepan and brown the bacon in it. Then reduce the heat and add the carrot, celery, onion and garlic and cook for 8 minutes approx. or until the vegetables have softened. Add the chopped tomatoes, herbs, haricots and enough stock to half cover the beans. Cover and simmer for 45 minutes – 1 hour.

When the lamb has finished cooking, strain out the herbs and vegetables and discard. Degrease the cooking juices and add to the beans. Taste and correct the seasoning.

Serve the lamb shanks in a hot deep dish with the bean and vegetable sauce and the braising liquid.  Garnish with sprigs of fresh rosemary and thyme

Just back from a few inspirational days at Slow Food Terra Madre and Salone del Gusto in Turin – an unmissable biannual event – life changing. I’d forgotten what a beautiful, elegant city Turin is. It was the royal seat of the House of Savoy and is defined by its baroque architecture – majestic royal palaces, wide avenues and extensive covered arches and wonderful, mature trees…Turin’s Museo Egizio (Egyptian Museum) has the most significant collection of Egyptian artefacts outside Egypt and the Shroud of Turin located in the Cathedral of Saint John the Baptist. It is renowned for its historic coffee-houses, artisan chocolates including gianduja and the irresistible bicerin – a combination of coffee and chocolate, topped with a generous blob of ice cold cream. 1,500 delegates came from 120 countries to meet and shape a vision for transforming the global food system, protect biodiversity and advocate for peace and justice.  It was an opportunity to share their experience and showcase their products. Overall, the event attracted over 300,000 people including farmers, fishers, indigenous leaders, cooks, researchers and activists. Many came clutching their endangered seeds, beans, grains, spices and ferments. The Icelanders brought their traditional dried stockfish to highlight an almost lost tradition stretching back over 1,100 years. The exhibition will travel all over Italy to raise awareness of endangered foods. We had tastes of traditional food from Taiwan, the Philippines, Azerbaijan, Columbia, Mexico, Nigeria….Slow Food is a global, grassroots movement founded in 1986 by Carlo Petrini as a protest when the first McDonald’s in Rome opened near the famous Piazza di Spagna, the Spanish Steps in Rome. It was the end of life as he and his friends knew it, something had to be done! Now, Slow Food is an international organisation active in over 160 countries promoting local food, traditional cooking and sustainable farming as an alternative to ultra-processed foods and fast-paced modern life. There is also Slow Fashion and Slow Travel, a mindful approach to clothing and travel that encourages the same ethos of Good, Clean, and Fair including paying a fair price to the producers and the workers. Slow Food protects biodiversity, safeguards traditional recipes from disappearing, supports local economies and encourages people to buy from small farmers, producers, local markets and artisans. It also promotes education, teaches people where their food comes from and how our daily food choices impact the planet. What’s not to like about that philosophy…Before Covid, Slow Food was very active in Ireland with 12 convivia (chapters), but the pandemic disrupted the flow, and it has taken time to recover its mojo…Slow Food East Cork based here at the Ballymaloe Cookery School in Shanagarry holds regular events. The last one was a screening of the Nut Farmers of Glastonbury. The next on Wednesday, December 2^nd, there is a Beginners Guide to Biodynamic Farming with Joe Prendergast. Keep an eye on social media for details @ballymaloecookeryschool – Check out https://www.slowfood.com/ for details of how to be part of the Slow Food Movement. Here’s a little taste of Turin to recreate at home.

Anchovies Crostini

This simple little anchovy bite which I enjoyed at Antiche Sere in Turin is much more than the sum of its parts. A perfect starter or irresistible bite with a glass of crisp white wine.

Serves 6

Ingredients

3 slices of best white bread (could be sourdough)

Whipped Butter

120g butter, softened

3 tbsp whole milk

24 anchovies

freshly cracked black pepper

Method

First make the whipped butter, put the soft butter into a bowl, whip it for 1-2 minutes with a handheld beater. Add the milk, whisk it slowly at first, then increase to high speed for 3-4 minutes until it turns pale and light and fluffy and has the texture of whipped cream.

Just before serving, toast the bread on both sides, cut into rectangles approx. 8cm long x 4cm wide.

Pipe a little riff of whipped butter along the centre, top with 2 anchovies and sprinkle with freshly cracked pepper or ground coffee as at Antiche Sere – a surprise but delicious.

Vitello Tonnata Salad

A much-loved starter in Piedmont, some chefs ‘posh’ it up with various garnish, this is the basic, unadulterated version and is delicious!

We ate several versions, one included candied capers, another at Café Stratta in Piazza San Carlo included crystallised kumquats.

Very thin slices of cooked pork fillet or chicken breast are also delicious with this tonnata sauce.

Serves 8

24 thin slices of cooked rosé veal

Ingredients

Tonnata Sauce

4 rounded tbsp homemade Mayonnaise

75g canned tuna in oil and 2 tbsp of the oil

2 anchovies, chopped

1 dsp of best capers

1 tbsp freshly squeezed lemon juice

freshly ground black pepper

To Serve

24 capers

Method

First make the Tonnata Sauce.

Put the mayonnaise into a food-processor with the tuna, oil, anchovies, capers, lemon juice and freshly ground black pepper. Whizz until smooth, taste and transfer to a bowl.

Arrange 3-4 paper thin slices of veal on each plate. Put a blob of tonnata sauce on top. Sprinkle a few capers on each one.

Bicerin

Bicerin, the famous speciality of Turin made from rich hot chocolate and strong espresso, topped with cold whipped cream.

Use a glass so you can see all three layers.

Add a little caster sugar to chocolate if you enjoy it a little sweeter.

Serves 4

Ingredients

90g semi-sweet chocolate (62% cocoa or higher), chopped

250ml whole milk

espresso or very strong coffee

chilled, softly whipped, sweetened cream (add ½ – 1 tbsp icing sugar to 200ml whipped cream)

Method

Melt the chopped chocolate in milk over a medium heat.  Whisk together.

Fill the bottom third of a clear, heat-resistant glass with the warm chocolate mixture. Pour in some espresso or strong coffee – pour it over the back of a spoon, into the glass. Top with a swirl of sweetened, whipped cream – grate a little chocolate over the top, not essential but delicious!

Regular readers of my column will know how highly concerned I am about our growing addiction to ultra-processed food. We already eat more ultra-processed foods on average than any other country in Europe, less than America you’ll be glad to hear but we’re fast catching up – not a statistic we can be proud of.  This is a serious business as the percentage of ultra-processed foods we eat increases so does the percentage of cancers, type 2 diabetes, heart disease and obesity.  The research is all there and evidence continues to mount. It’s not easy in these busy times to keep all the balls in the air, dash home from work, do a shop on the way, get a meal on the table, maybe help with homework.  Something quick and easy to heat up that is in many instances less expensive, highly addictive is understandably tempting. I don’t know the answer and to compound it all we’ve let two generations out of our homes, schools without equipping them with the basic practical cooking skills to feed themselves properly, thus playing right into the hands of the multinational fast food companies. The more deskilled we allow ourselves to become, the more dependent we are on others to provide us with our food. Let’s take back control which brings me to Sophie Morris whose second book has just arrived on my desk. Her first book ‘Sophies Swaps’ became an instant bestseller and won the An Post Irish Book Award for Lifestyle Book of the Year 2025. Sophie, a busy mother of two boys loves to feed her family yummy wholesome food. Desperately trying to source nutrient dense produce in the supermarket. She studied the labels intensely and became increasingly concerned about the numerous colourings, additives and processing aids. In many cases, she found swaps with less or no additives and shared her finds on social media, gaining a large number of grateful followers. Companies were not unaware of the adverse effect on their sales and have in many cases reviewed their products, Bravo Sophie! Her much anticipated latest book is called ‘Homemade Wins’, the first chapters are worth the price of the cookbook alone. Understanding Ultra-Processed Foods and its Impact. Changing Our Mindset for Long-Term Health. Convenience Cooking and Freezing. How to Read a Food Label. Store-Cupboard Essentials and Hero Products. Weekly Meal Plan and Reducing Waste at Home. Simple Cooking Swaps. And then there are 60 plus carefully chosen yummy recipes. I just wanted to cook lots and lots of them, so tempting – here are three to get you started.

*Recipes are from Sophie’s Swaps Homemade Wins by Sophie Morris published by DK (Doris Kindersley Limited)

Spicy Cauliflower “Wings”

Serves 4 as a starter or side

PREP 10 MINUTES

COOK 30 MINUTES

These cauliflower “wings” are a great homemade swap for spicy takeaway-style chicken wings. When my husband and I first met in our twenties, we used to love eating these at a local restaurant but have since swapped to making them at home and much prefer the homemade version now. The cauliflower is coated in a simple spiced batter, baked until crisp and golden, then tossed in a buttery hot sauce that gives them that classic spicy wing flavour. They make a brilliant and delicious meat-free option for dinner or for sharing. Serve them straight from the oven with a simple green salad on the side. Frank’s Hot Sauce is a must for this recipe!

Ingredients

100g plain flour

2 tsp smoked paprika

1 tsp garlic powder

1 tsp onion powder

½ tsp sea salt

150ml milk

1 cauliflower, cut into bite-sized florets

green salad, to serve

For the spicy sauce

6 tbsp hot sauce (I like Frank’s Hot Sauce)

3 tbsp melted butter

Method

Preheat the oven to 220°C (200°C fan) and line two baking trays with baking parchment.

In a large bowl, combine the flour with the spices and salt. Add the milk and stir until you have a thick batter.

Add the cauliflower florets to the batter, coating each piece evenly and then place on the prepared baking trays. Be sure to leave room between each piece of cauliflower, so they crisp up.

Bake for around 30 minutes until golden.

While the cauliflower bakes, combine the hot sauce with the melted butter and whisk to combine.

When the cauliflower is done, toss with the hot sauce in the bowl until well coated.

Serve immediately with a simple green salad on the side.

BEEF & BEAN BURGERS

Serves 6

PREP 10 MINUTES

CHILL 20 MINUTES

COOK 10 MINUTES

These are a healthy homemade swap for the classic burger. By mixing minced (ground) beef with black beans, you get burgers that are juicy, full of flavour, and more nourishing, too. The beans stretch the meat further and add fibre and micronutrients. Serve in soft burger buns with melted cheese, crunchy gherkins, and a generous spoonful of my homemade barbecue sauce and mayo. If you’re feeling organized, you can even make the bread rolls from the Breads chapter, which turns this into a completely homemade burger night – and it’s far easier than you might think!

Ingredients

400g minced (ground) beef (15-20% fat content)

400g can black beans, drained and rinsed

½ small onion, finely chopped

1 garlic clove, crushed

1 tsp smoked paprika

1 tsp ground cumin

1 egg

3 tbsp fresh breadcrumbs

drizzle of olive oil

salt and black pepper

To serve

6 slices Cheddar cheese

6 burger buns

gherkins, sliced

Sweet and Smoky BBQ Sauce (see recipe)

Mayonnaise (see recipe)

Special equipment

food processor

Method

Put the mince, beans, onion, garlic, spices, egg, breadcrumbs, and some salt and pepper in a food processor and blitz to combine.

Shape the mixture into six patties and refrigerate them for at least 20 minutes before cooking.

Heat a drizzle of olive oil in a frying pan (skillet) and cook the burgers for around 5 minutes on each side until cooked through.

Place a slice of cheese on each burger for the final minute of cooking and allow it to melt.

Split and toast the buns lightly.

Add the burgers to the buns along with some sliced gherkins and a generous spoonful of barbecue sauce and mayo.

Tips

You can omit the spices if making for picky kids. The uncooked patties can be frozen, place them on a tray lined with baking parchment, ensuring they are not touching and freeze until firm (about 1-2 hours). Once frozen, transfer to an airtight container and freeze for up to 3 months. To cook, defrost the patties overnight in the fridge, then cook as in the recipe.

Sweet and Smoky BBQ Sauce

This homemade barbecue sauce is such a great swap for store-bought sauces. It’s absolutely delicious, takes practically no effort and is made in minutes.

Makes 1 small jar

PREP 1 MINUTE

COOK 5 MINUTES

Ingredients

2 tbsp tomato purée (paste)

2 tsp Dijon mustard

½ tsp garlic powder

2 tbsp honey, or to taste

6 tbsp balsamic vinegar, or to taste

4 tbsp Worcestershire sauce

Method

Place all the ingredients in a small saucepan and mix together well. Bring to a gentle simmer and cook for around 5 minutes, stirring, until thick.

Taste and adjust the sweetness with more honey, or sourness with more vinegar, if needed.

Store in an airtight container in the fridge for up to 3 weeks.

Five-Minute Mayonnaise

Makes 350-400ml

PREP 5 MINUTES

Ingredients

2 egg yolks (I tend to throw the reserved egg whites into an omelette with a few whole eggs)

1 tbsp Dijon mustard

Good pinch of sea salt

300-350ml mild-flavoured oil (mild olive oil works well)

juice of ½ – 1 lemon, to taste

2-3 tbsp white wine vinegar, to taste

Method

Put the egg yolks, mustard and salt into a medium bowl and whisk together with a balloon whisk until well combined.

Very slowly start adding the oil, a few drops at a time at first, whisking continuously. Once the mixture begins to thicken and emulsify, you can start adding the oil in a slow, steady stream while whisking quickly and constantly.

Continue whisking and adding oil until the mayonnaise becomes thick, smooth and glossy.

Stir in the lemon juice and white wine vinegar, tasting as you go until you have a balance of richness and acidity that you like.

If the mayonnaise becomes too thick, whisk 1-2 teaspoons of water to loosen it slightly.

Store in an airtight container in the fridge for up to 1 week.

Note: You can also make this in a food processor.

“SNICKERS” & “BOUNTY” CHOCOLATE BITES

Makes 12

These are my homemade versions of two classic chocolate bars. Sweet, chewy Medjool dates offer a caramel-like base, then simply add nuts or coconut, cover in dark chocolate, and you’ve got a freezer stash of delicious chocolate treats made entirely from real food ingredients, ready to grab whenever you want something sweet. They genuinely taste better than the originals. Not only that, they also are supportive of your health, avoiding giving you a sugar high and the subsequent crash. Using a silicone muffin tray (pan) makes this recipe much easier, but you can place them directly onto baking parchment too.

For the “Snickers” Bites

12 large Medjool dates

2-3 tbsp smooth peanut butter

2-3 tbsp roasted, salted peanuts, roughly chopped

200g dark (semisweet) chocolate (70% cocoa solids), melted

For the “Bounty” Bites

12 large Medjool dates

60g desiccated (dried, shredded, unsweetened) coconut

2 tbsp coconut cream (or use the thick part from the top of a can of coconut milk)

200g dark (semisweet) chocolate (70% cocoa solids), melted

Special equipment

12-hole silicone muffin tray (pan)

Slice each date down the centre without cutting all the way through. Remove the pit and gently flatten with your hands. Place each date into the bottom of a 12-hole silicone muffin tray or lay them flat side by side on a baking tray (baking sheet) lined with baking parchment.

For the “Snickers” Bites Spoon or drizzle peanut butter into each date (it helps to warm the peanut butter slightly, so it’s extra drizzly) and sprinkle the chopped peanuts on top of the peanut butter.

For the “Bounty” Bites In a bowl, mix the desiccated coconut with the coconut cream until you have a thick, slightly sticky mixture. Spoon the coconut mixture into each flattened date.

Spoon over the melted chocolate to completely cover each date and filling.

Put the tray into the freezer for 30-45 minutes until hardened, then pop the bites out of the tray and store in an airtight container in the fridge for up to 1 week or the freezer for up to 3 months.

Tip

If eating straight from the freezer, allow them to sit for a few minutes to soften slightly before enjoying.