We’re sitting in Dede’s Cellar and Pantry in Baltimore in West Cork, the super chic new addition to Ahmet Dede and Maria Archer’s enterprises in the little seaside town. My food loving friend from LA is ‘pinching himself’ as we tuck into lobster roll on brioche, sea bass crudo…and exceptionally delicious pastries, a selection of natural wines to swoon over). He didn’t expect to find food to rival LA hot spots in a village in rural Ireland, but West Cork is totally ‘rocking’. www.dedecellarandpantry.com Next door is Baba’de, the less formal sister of the 2 star Michelin, Dede at the Custom House which lures people from far and wide. www.babade.ie They are just some of the options in this culinary hot spot. All over West Cork there are Pop-Ups. At Native in Ballydehob, Didi and Simon Ronan host a Monday Club – Kevin O’Donnell from Comet Restaurant in Dublin was guest chef last week, another ‘pinch me’ meal with exceptionally delicious BBQ roast pork ribs from Dermot Allen of Winetavern Farm in Co. Wicklow and lots of seasonal local produce. @nativecabins on Instagram. Camilla Houston did a weeklong Pop-Up in Ballydehob, weaving her magic and cooking yummy food at Kitchen Stories on Staball Hill. Camilla’s Tomato Galette made with juicy ripe summer tomatoes and summer peach, cucumber and tomato salad were particularly irresistible – natural wines here too. Camilla will be popping up again in Kitchen Stories from the 12th – 15th August and at the Field Café at the Ballymaloe Cookery School on 7th September in Shanagarry. Book through @kitchenstorieswestcork on Instagram or text Camilla on 083 1443263. We were also fortunate to snatch a table for an early dinner at Robbie and Elaine Krawczyk’s Chestnut Restaurant. We are not likely to forget the standout rosemary sherbet with dill oil any time soon. And that’s not all, legendary Levis’s pub just down the street has several Pop-Ups; to add to temptations of year round cafés and delis and there’s also Rosies – it’s all happening in Ballydehob. Robbie Krawczyk’s Chestnut will close after service on 30th October 2026, and an exciting new venture (still undisclosed) is on the cards. Do try to get to Chestnut before then. Early sitting at 5.30pam and then from 6.30pm for a more elaborate tasting menu. Booking essential – www.restaurantchestnutwestcork.ie Over in Leap, the long awaited and much anticipated Harnen opened its doors in June, and the queues still persist eight weeks on for Mark and Sadie Jennings delicious food reminiscent of the much loved food they served at Pilgrims in Rosscarbery for many years. @harnen.of.leap on Instagram. Connolly’s pub also in Leap also has some much enjoyed Pop-Up’s – watch that space for more highlights. Check opening times for all these restaurants – many are not open in the early part of the week but Dede’s Cellar and Pantry in Baltimore is open on Monday from 10am – 10pm. I didn’t make it further West this time but there’s excitement and a real buzz all over West Cork, so check it out and spread the word. Over the causeway in Inishbeg, Orphelia Keane also has a series of exciting Pop-Ups at her restaurant Carpa. West Cork born, Italy-based travelling chef Rudi Henwood’s dinner was also a sellout – delicious small dishes and memorable beef @carpadining on Instagram. How fortunate to have so many temptations and I haven’t even mentioned Sunday brunch at Island Cottage on Hare Island. The hottest meal ticket in the whole of West Cork. Open only from mid-June to mid-September. All bookings taken from 10am on Tuesday for the following Saturday and Sunday. Lunch served from 2.15pm – 4pm (only one sitting). You better be fast, it sells out faster than a U2 Concert – (028) 38102. After all that, there’s an option of a visit to Bantry or Clonakilty Markets on Friday and Skibbereen Farmers’ Market on Saturday morning where you can pick up everything from spanking fresh fish, crusty sourdough, olives, pickles, local cheeses, home vegetables, hen and duck eggs, Mrs. Love’s honey, pickled ‘leprechauns brains’, live chickens and ducks, antiques, designer clothes, beautiful bouquets, plants and on and on and on…And if you are still up for it, Schull and Baltimore Markets on Sunday mornings. Here’s a taste of West Cork kindly shared by Robbie Krawczyk, Camilla Houston and Ahmet Dede.
Chestnut’s Crème Fraîche Sherbet
Thank you to Robbie Krawczyk for sharing this delicious recipe. He served it with dill oil and a sugar tuile – a sublime super delicious combination.
Serves 8-10
Ingredients
350ml sugar syrup
15g glucose
250g crème fraîche
juice and zest of one lime (40ml approx.)
Sugar Syrup
175g of water
175g of sugar
3-4 sprigs of rosemary (10g approx.) (optional)
Method
In a pot, add your water, sugar and herbs. Place onto a stove on a medium heat until your sugar has dissolved and simmer very gently for 30 seconds.
Remove from the heat and cool.
Place the remaining ingredients into a bowl, whisk until combined and sieve the sugar syrup into a bowl and mix thoroughly.
Pour into an ice-cream machine and churn until frozen.
Scoop into a bowl or onto a plate. Robbie served it with dill oil and a fragment of sugar tuile.
Sugar Crystal Tuiles
Ingredients
5-7g glucose
Method
Spread thinly on a non-stick mat, bake at 160°C for 15-25 minutes until it melts and reaches the desired colour! Allow to cool and break into pieces for garnish.
Camilla’s Tomato and Anchovy Galette
Camilla serves this tomato galette with a few anchovies and a blob of lemon basil crème fraîche – irresistible.
Serves 8
Ingredients
500g ripe tomatoes (use a mixture of sizes and colours), cut into ½cm pieces
50g Gruyère, coarsely grated
1 tbsp chopped marjoram or thyme
freshly ground black pepper
4-8 anchovies
125g crème fraîche and lemon basil
For the Pastry
225g plain flour or sieved wholemeal for nuttier flavour plus extra for dusting
100g cold butter cut into cubes
pinch of salt
2 eggs plus extra beaten egg for brushing
Method
Put the sliced tomatoes into a colander set over a large bowl, sprinkle over 1 tsp salt and set aside for 1 hour to draw out the moisture.
Meanwhile, make the pastry.
Put the flour, butter and a good pinch of salt into a food processor and blitz to a fine breadcrumb-like consistency. Beat the eggs in a jug, then tip into the processor and pulse to a soft dough – if it seems dry, add ½ tsp cold water at a time until it comes together. Shape into a round, then wrap n parchment paper and chill for 20 minutes.
Preheat the oven to 180°C/Gas Mark 4 (fan 160°C).
Put the tomatoes into a large bowl with the cheese, garlic and fresh herbs. Add a good grinding of black pepper. Toss gently to combine using your hands. Set aside.
Roll the chilled pastry out on a lightly floured surface to a roughly 30cm circle. Pile the filling into the middle, leaving a roughly 5cm border around the edge. Brush the exposed pastry border with some beaten egg, then fold the border up so it slightly overlaps the tomato filling. It doesn’t need to be even or neat.
Brush the pastry with more beaten egg, then bake in the preheated oven for 40-50 mins until the pastry is golden and the tomatoes have softened and are tender.
Mix the crème fraîche with some chopped lemon basil to taste.
Note
Drop a few pieces of anchovy on top and garnish with a sprig of lemon basil or some freshly chopped herbs.
Ahmet Dede’s Sea Bass Crudo on Gazpacho
Spanking fresh sea bass
Start 24 hours in advance preparing the fish, pickles and gazpacho.
Method
Skin the fillets of fish, remove the bones, sprinkle some sea salt on top, turn the fillet upside down and leave for 8 mins, place in iced water for 3 minutes, then place covered in the fridge for 24 hours to air-dry it.
Pickled red onions and radishes.
This is made as a basic pickle – vinegar, salt and a little bit of sugar, black pepper and coriander seeds.
To make the gazpacho.
Take some tomatoes, olive oil, peppers, tomato water, sourdough starter, red onion, pepper- blend this and marinate for 24 hours, then blend it and pass through a sieve. Keep chilled until needed.
To Serve
Thinly slice or dice the sea bass. Put on a plate with some extra virgin olive oil, lemon zest, thinly slice some small tomatoes and arrange on plate, add some pickled red onions and radishes and spoon on the gazpacho and serve.